lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

100SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR MON STATEif the friendly English-speaking owner isn’taround.Ngwe Moe Hotel HOTEL $$(%24703; cnr Kyaikthoke Paya & Strand Rd; s/d$27/36; a) The three-storey Ngwe Moe onStrand Rd is frequented by groups. Therooms are fresh and comfortable but lackcharacter.Aurora Guest House HOTEL $(%22785; 277 South Bogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd); r$5-18; a) The more expensive rooms in thisrather dark and dreary budget hotel have aprivate bathroom and air-con; others onlyhave a fan and a shared bathroom. Breakfastis not included.5EatingFor a city of this size, the eating options arescarce. The Attran Hotel and Ngwe MoeHotel have restaurants that serve lunch anddinner. An atmospheric teahouse (SouthBogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd); snacks from K400;h6am-6pm) near the Aurora Guest Houseserves good tea and snacks.oBeer Garden 2 BEER GARDEN $(58 Strand Rd; meals from K3000; hdinner) Ignorethe misleading English-language menuthey’ll dust off for foreigners and insteadhead straight for the barbecued snacks:these guys are truly talented grillers. Simplypoint to select your vegies and proteins fromthe refrigerators and staff will slather themwith a delicious, spicy sauce and grill themfor you. Couple your skewers with a glassof what must be the coldest draught beerin Myanmar, and you’ve got Mawlamyine’sbest meal.Mi Cho Restaurant MUSLIM, BURMESE $(North Bogyoke Rd; meals from K1500; hlunch& dinner) This busy hole in the wall, a shortwalk from Attran Hotel, serves excellentMuslim-style Myanmar cuisine, in particulara rich biryani and a delicious dhal soup.Worth the walk.Mya Than LwinRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(Dawei jetty, Strand Rd; mains from K2000; hallday) This restaurant, in what appears to bea former warehouse, is now a popular hangout.You can dine on the wooden plankedfloor outside and feel like you’re on a boatat sea or in the smokier, and more bar-like,indoors. There’s an extensive menu of soups,chicken and seafood, including an abundanceof shrimp- and prawn-based dishes.Help Grandfather and MotherRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(Strand Rd; mains from K500; hall day) Doeswhat it says on the label; the money raisedhere goes to a charity helping the town’s elderly.If that weren’t reason enough to eathere, it’s also a delightful waterfront restaurantin its own right and absolutely theplace to watch the sunset with a cup of tea.The sign is written in Burmese only; lookfor silhouettes of old people walking withcanes.Chan Thar Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(4 Myoma Tadar St; mains from K2000; hall day)You could easily mistake this restaurant fora cinema and walk right on past. The sweetand sour stir-fry is unusually good and thechef can even whip up a mean fruit salad.There’s beer and conversations on tap anda TV tuned to the UK premiership football.Peking Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(235 South Bogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd); mainsfrom K3000; hlunch & dinner) Despite thename, this isn’t the place to go for northernChinese specialties. Rather, they do an acceptable,if somewhat overpriced and greasytake on Chinese-Burmese standards.7 ShoppingMawlamyine has a number of busy marketsincluding the Zeigyi (central market),the Big Market and the even biggerMyine Yadanar Market. Though localsdistinguish between all of them, you probablywon’t as they virtually meld into oneanother and you’ll be too engrossed in themelange of smells, sights and tastes to careanyway.8InformationA police station is located over the road from thegovernment jetties. The post offi ce is a couple ofblocks further inland.Grace Internet Cafe (South Bogyoke Rd (LowerMain Rd); per hr K500; h9am-10pm) Not entirelyreliable internet connections are availableat this shop in the centre of town. There are acouple of similar places in the area.8Getting There & AwayAirMyanma Airways fl y to Yangon ($30) and Myeik(Mergui; $65) every Sunday at 7am, although