lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE ORDINARY/UPPER ($) DURATION (HR) DEPARTUREYangon 2/5 3 6am-8pmMawlamyine 5/12 7-9 8.18am, 9.07amMandalay10/27146.<strong>11</strong>am, 6.51am, 7.21am, 7.50am, 1.50pmAROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONMya Nanda Hotel HOTEL $(%19799; 10 Main Rd; r $6-15; a) An acceptable,if grubby, budget choice, and the staff herecan arrange motorbike taxis and guides sothat you can check out the sights.5EatingHanthawaddy CHINESE, BURMESE $$(192 Hintha St; mains K2000-8000; hlunch &dinner) The food here isn’t amazing, but it’sthe only restaurant in Bago with a bit ofatmosphere. Located across from the footballpitch and a short walk from GandamarHotel, the open-air upper level is breezy andoffers great views of Shwewawdaw Paya.And perhaps the food situation will changewhen, as we were told, they get a Thai chef.Three Five Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(10 Main Rd; mains K1200-4000; hall day; a)A friendly, but shabby, place a few doorswest of the Emperor Hotel. The menu is acombination of Bamar, Chinese, Indian andEuropean; the food is cheap and good, andthe menu includes ‘goat fighting balls’ (goattesticles), prepared in a number of ways.Hadaya Café TEAHOUSE $(hbreakfast & lunch) Opposite the EmperorHotel, this popular teahouse has a niceselection of pastries and good-quality teaand coffee.8InformationSTG Computer Center (Yangon-Mandalay Rd;per hr K500; h5am-5pm) Offers basic internetservice east of the river. Other similar cafes canbe found northwest of the clock tower alongYangon-Mandalay Rd.8Getting There & AwayBusFor buses from Yangon, see p 70 .Bago’s bus station (Yangon-Mandalay Rd) isabout halfway between the town centre and theBago Star Hotel, located across from the Hindutemple. Many buses passing through Bago canalso be waved down from outside your hotel,though unless you have booked a ticket in advancethere is less likelihood of a seat.Buses to Yangon (K1500, two hours) departapproximately every 45 minutes from 6.45amto 5.15pm.Going south, buses to Kinpun, the startingpoint for Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock), leave everyhour or so during the day (K5000, three hours).During the rainy season (May to October), busesgo only as far as Kyaikto, 10 miles from Kinpun.Departures for Mawlamyine are at 7.45am, 8amand 9am (K8000, seven hours).Heading north, for Mandalay there are departuresat 5.30pm and 8pm (K<strong>11</strong>,500). It’s alsopossible to hop on one of the buses comingfrom Yangon – try to book ahead and ask yourhotel to help. For Taungoo and Inle Lake, youmight be able to grab a seat on one of the busesoriginating in Yangon between 1.30pm and 4pm(K14,000 to K16,000, 12 hours).TaxiA more expensive but more convenient alternativeis to hire a taxi for a day trip from Yangon.With bargaining this should cost about $60, but itdoes give you the additional advantage of havingtransport between sites once you get to Bago andsaves traipsing all the way out to the bus stationin Yangon. One-way taxis back from Bago straightto your hotel in Yangon cost about K40,000.A guide and driver to Mt Kyaiktiyo (GoldenRock, p 93 ) can be hired for around $55 return.For any of the above, you can inquire at thetown’s taxi stand (Yangon-Mandalay Rd) orthrough any of the central Bago hotels.TrainFor trains from Yangon see p 71 .8Getting AroundTrishaw is the main form of local transport inBago. A one-way trip in the central area shouldcost no more than K500. If you’re going furtherafi eld – say from Shwethalyaung Buddha, at oneend of town, to Shwemawdaw Paya, at the other –you might as well hire a trishaw or motorcycle forthe day, either of which should cost about K6000.
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
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16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
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18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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Page 48 and 49: 52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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Page 70 and 71: AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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Page 90 and 91: TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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Page 94 and 95: MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Page 110 and 111: 112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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Page 114 and 115: 116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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138BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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140BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-B
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KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Temples of Baganæ Top SightsAbeyad
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small, square monastery platform, c
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HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of prim
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KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Maj
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that temple styles changed in Bagan
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ick monasteries in Bagan were singl
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THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills
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169Jinghong4SHANSTATEMong LaWan Nye
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Return the way you came until you r
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ooms and lots of potted greenery. M
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BUSES & PICK-UP TRUCKS FROM KALAW17
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Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE
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Mingala MarketMARKET(Map p 178 ; Yo
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TOFU & HOT SPRINGSLocated on the no
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y concepts such as Shan guacamole,
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From Nyaung Ohak, a covered stairwa
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oat’s motor. Bring ear plugs or s
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also be called the Shan Fashion Mus
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look for the narrow alley with the
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and travel to the border areas is s
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Kengtung (Kyaingtong)æ Top SightsW
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BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
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NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
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Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
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Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
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Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
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Legend claims that many figures wer
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ÉÉSTART EINDAWYA PAYAFINISH VIEW
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105 and 206 are windowless. You can
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5Eating & DrinkingMandalay’s dini
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Sin Chun Yin BARBECUE $(Map p 202 ;
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pay commissions to drivers or guide
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WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
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MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Technically, U Bein’s Bridge is p
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high and 9ft in circumference. The
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will probably be charged $3 for a M
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TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
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PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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State and Xishuangbanna (China) in
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239» Journeys are fastest in autum
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INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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merous remnant bricks and posts rem
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lock inland from there are the hote
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IRRAWADDY DOLPHINSThe Irrawaddy dol
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St, with many beer stations in the
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TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY-LA
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-La
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play areas add to the attraction fo
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges
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Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...
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MU-SE & THE MYANMAR-CHINA BORDER267
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDA
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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