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is a low-key industrial town as well as thehome of a large Hindu community.1SightsThanlyin is a relaxing place, with shadedstreets and a busy market to stroll through,but there is little of the ancient city to beseen.A short bus ride out of town will take youto the Kyaik-khauk Paya (admission $1), ascaled-down Shwedagon with stupendousviews from its hilltop location. It’s said tocontain two Buddha hairs delivered to thesite by the great sage himself. Most likelythe first stupa on this hillock was erected bythe Mon 600 to 800 years ago. A Kyauktanboundbus can drop you off here, or if youwere dropped off at Thanlyin’s market, amotorcycle taxi will take you for K1000.Thanlyin was also the first place inMyanmar to receive Christian missionariesand the first place to have its own church.You can visit the remains of the Portuguesebuiltchurch, which was constructed in1750.Yele Paya (admission $2) at Kyauktan, 7.5miles southeast of Thanlyin, is a sparklingfloating temple adrift on a chocolate river.You can re-enact Jaws by feeding the massivecatfish splashing about at the templecomplex’s edge. To reach the islet, catch oneof the launch ferries (K5000 return) reservedfor foreigners from the riverbank. Also inthe town is a small pagoda perched on thetop of a hill beside the river and a hectic,flyblown and rather fishy market, whichreaches its climax in the morning.In the third week of January Thanlyin’sHindu community celebrates (or enduresdepending on your opinion) Thaipusam,the ritual of penitence in which devotees repentbad deeds by impaling themselves withhooks and nails and walking over hot coals.4Sleeping & EatingThere is no licence for foreigner accommodationin either town. For eats, Pwint(%21400; set meals K2000-6000; hlunch & dinner),a self-proclaimed ‘high-class’ Myanmarrestaurant, about a mile from Thanlyin’smarket, is allegedly the best in town (there’sno roman-script signage).If you’ve hired a driver, ask to refreshat Shwe Pu Zun (%553 062; 14A MinnandarRd, Dawbon Township; ice cream & drinks fromK650;a), a huge modern complex locatedbetween Yangon and Thanlyin specialisingin sweets; the faluda (‘fa-lu-da’ on themenu; a mixture of custard, ice cream andjelly) here is famous.Near the ferry landing in Kyauktan areseveral food vendors.8Getting There & AwayThe most convenient way to visit both Thanlyinand Kyauktan on the other side of the river is tohire a taxi in Yangon (K25,000 for a half-day).By taxi, it takes about 30 minutes to get toThanlyin.However, if you’re passionate about Myanmar’suncomfortable local transport or arecounting kyat, buses to Thanlyin (K200, onehour, 16 miles) leave frequently throughout theday from Sule Pagoda; look for lines 173 (173),189 (189) and 217 (217).In Thanlyin, motorcycle taxis can take youto Kyaik-khauk Paya (K1000) and Yele Paya(K3000).Twantetâ®et"%045 / POP C5000The small town of Twante was noted forits pottery, cotton-weaving and an old Monpaya complex. Much of the town was destroyedby Cyclone Nargis in May 2008, butin the years since, life has largely returnedto normal.The journey to Twante, by rickety ferry,is the best reason for coming. You’ll glidepast fishers in little wooden boats haulingin nets, larger cargo boats steaming towardsYangon and, on land, small villages wherekids spill out from thatched huts to play.1SightsShwesandaw PayaBUDDHIST STUPAer¯z®et;'.urC"(camera fee K200) Standing 250ft tall, the ShwesandawPaya is a Mon-built zedi (stupa), just aGETTING AROUNDTHE DELTA» Due to slow and infrequent publictransport in the Delta, this is one regionwhere you might consider hiring adriver (p 71 ).» If you’ve bought a deck ticket for theferry to Pathein (p 79 ), consider buyinga mat and/or a blanket.75DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON SIGHTS SIGHTS TWANTE