lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the Strand is easily the most expensive hotel in Yangon. Things were quite differentback in 1979, when Tony Wheeler reviewed the hotel for the first edition of this guidebook:YANGON‘Staying at the Strand is full of amusing little touches – beside the reception desk thereis a glass faced cabinet labelled “lost & found”. Most of the articles were clearly lost halfa century ago, not many ladies carry delicate little folding fans around these days. Thesingle lift is ancient but smoothly operating. In the restaurant the maitre de is grimly efficientin a crumpled grey suit in which he looks very ill at ease. The waiters call everybodysir, male or female. Both the bar and restaurant close at 9pm but a small cache of MandalayBeer from the Peoples’ Brewery is kept behind the reception desk should you wishto continue drinking. By 11pm you are likely to be feeling pretty lonely in the lounge area,though, just the occasional Strand rat scampering across the floor to keep you company.On the last night of one Burma visit, to my utter amazement hot water came from theshower when I turned on the tap.’that means guesthouses and hotels are stillrelatively cheap. There’s virtually nil in the wayof fresh new faces, particularly in the budgetand midrange categories, and much of thecity’s budget accommodation is as dank anddreary as ever.The prices quoted here are high-seasonwalk-in rates, but almost all midrange andtop-end hotels offer discounts of up to 50%.Many of the midrange and top-end hotelsalso provide perks such as airport pick-up,internet access and full-service business centres,and all provide some form of breakfast.Only one hotel accepted credit cards at researchtime and some high-end places alsoadd a 10% service charge and a 10% governmenttax.It’s worth noting that all large hotels willhave taken part in some financial agreementwith the ruling junta to establish theirbusiness. Some, like the large Traders Hotel(Map p 42 ) in central Yangon, are jointventures between foreign companies andthe military. Others, such as the KandawgyiPalace Hotel (Map p 48 ) or the CentralHotel (Map p 46 ), are owned outright by thegovernment or by those with close militaryconnections. As far as we are aware, thoselisted here have a fairly minimal governmentownership share – if any. See p 21 formore information.CITY CENTREStrand Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 42 ; %243 377; www.ghmhotels.com; 92Strand Rd; ste $550-1100; aiW) The Strand isa relic of the same colonial-era legacy as theOriental in Bangkok, the Raffles in Singaporeand the Eastern & Oriental in Georgetown,but boasts what is arguably a more‘colourful’ history than its peers.Opened in 1901 by the famed Sarkiesbrothers, the hotel in its early years hostedthe likes of Rudyard Kipling, George Orwelland Somerset Maugham. During WWII, theStrand was used to house Japanese troops,and Burmese nationals were allegedly notallowed to stay in the hotel until 1945. Andfrom 1962 to 1989, in what was quite possiblyits darkest period (see boxed text) thehotel was owned and managed by the Burmesegovernment.The latest incarnation of the Strand datesto 1995. It’s very much a luxury affair, withheaps of charm and history – even the bathroomfixtures are vintage – and a high levelof service. But it’s worth mentioning that theStrand doesn’t have the same modern comfortsas other hotels of this class (the TVs arenon-flatscreen and small, internet is availableonly in the lobby or business centre, anddon’t even bother looking for an iPod jack).Note also that, at the time of research, onlycash in US$ dollars was accepted, so bookonline or make sure you have a lot of cash.Even if you can’t afford the rent, theStrand is well worth a visit for a drink in thebar, high tea ($18; h2.30-5pm) in the lobbylounge or a splurge lunch at the café.oMother Land Inn 2 BUDGET HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %291 343; www.myanmarmotherlandinn.com; 433 Lower Pazundaung Rd; dm $8,r $10-25; ai) Take a pinch of backpackerbohemia, a dollop of professional service,a massive portion of cleanliness, mix wellwith a generous helping of travel advice