lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANGONEast Central Yangon#1243#ý# û39Gyo Phyu St# ú25AungSanStadium# 54Kun Chan St#£ YangonTrain StationMahabandoolaGarden St55#TradersHotelÿ#û#40 ý#41 # ú 3422 # ú ÿ#5 26 ÿ#12Ü#4# ý 42 ÿ#6 # ú # ú 23# þ Methodist# ð46 Ü#Telugu ChurchAA # ð # þ 48#3 Pharmacy# ð30#ú33 ú## ú18ú#5253 #32 # ú203537# ú # ú # 50 ## þ#á ú#49# ð 28 BAKIndependenceCenterMonument# þ444ÿ##÷ 2 36 ú#1610MahabandoolaGarden8 ÿ#45#þÿ#Sule Paya Rd1 11 11 11 11 1 11 11 1 11 11 1 11 1ÿ#1766 6666 665A‚35th St36th StPansodan St7##Bank StPansodanSt Jettyf#Yangon RiverUpper Pansodan St37th St38th StSeikkan Thar St51# 14ÿ#U Pho Kyar StMahabandoola Rd39th St40th StBo Aung Kyaw St#òBMINGALATAUNGNYUNT41st St42nd St# þ47Bo Galay Zay St43rd St44th St94th StBoMinYaungStStrand RdThein Byu Rd# ú 29# ú2166613ÿ#ú#24ÿ27 # ú 31# ú # Þ 3# û38BOTATAUNG11ÿ#ÿ#1519#ú #Ú 1C46th St101st St47th StMerchant StBogyoke Aung San Rd48th StBo Myat Tun St49th StYay Kyaw Rd50th St51st St52nd StDBo Ta Taung Pagoda Rd54th StAnawrahta Rd53rd St#ñABCDIndependence Monument, an obelisk surroundedby two concentric circles of chinthe.For a year or two following the 1988–90prodemocracy uprisings, the park was occupiedby soldiers; many of the more violentevents of the time took place nearby.Other Temples & ShrinesFor a change of scenery check out the dragonsand incense of the Kheng Hock Keong(Map p 46 ; Strand Rd; admission free; h24hr), thelargest Chinese temple in Yangon. Supportedby a Hokkien association, the 100-yearoldtemple is most lively from around 6amto 9am when it’s thronged with worshippersoffering candles, flowers and incense to theBuddhist and Taoist altars within.The impressive Moseah Yeshua Synagogue(Map p 46 ; 85 26th St), near MahabandoolaRd, was founded in 1894 by SephardicJews from India and Baghdad. Watched overby trustee Moses Samuels, one of Yangon’snow tiny community of Jews, its lovinglymaintained interior contains a bimah (platformholding the reading table for the torah)in the centre of the main sanctuary and awomen’s balcony upstairs. The wooden ceil-
0 580 m#e 0 0.3 milesEF56th StBo Ta Htaung Zay RdRdUpper PazundaungPAZUNDAUNG9#ÿPazundaung CanalMahabandoola RdELower Pazundaung RdStrand RdThaketa Bridge1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1ing features the original blue-and-white Starof David motif.Several colourful Hindu temples can befound in the centre of the city, includingSri Kali (Map p 46 ; Anawrahta Rd; h5-11am &3-9pm), between 26th and 27th Sts, and theSri Devi (Map p 42 ; cnr Anawrahta Rd & 51st St;h6.30-11.30am & 4.30-8.30pm), both of whichare Technicolor temples following the classicSouth Indian style of towers. These are thecentres for the city’s annual Murugu Festival,famous for colourful street processions featuringacts of ritual self-mutilation.F12345Christians get in on the act in Yangon aswell with St Mary’s Cathedral (Map p 42 ; cnrBo Aung Kyaw St & Bogyoke Aung San Rd), built ina bizarre red brick (and with an equally bizarrered, green and white interior), whichwill excite colonial buffs.OUTSIDE CITY CENTREShwedagon PayaBUDDHIST STUPAer¯ti8u®.urC"(Map p 48 ; admission $5; h5am-10pm) Heartstopping at any time, the Shwedagon Payaglitters bright gold in the heat of the day.Then, as the sun casts its last rays, it turns acrimson gold and orange, magic floats in theheat and the mighty diamond at the spire’speak casts a beam of light that reflects sheetwhite, bloody red and jealous green to thefar corners of the temple platform. It can bequiet and contemplative or colourful andraucous, and for the people of Myanmar itis the most sacred of all Buddhist sites, onethat all Myanmar Buddhists hope to visit atleast once in their lifetime.Visible from almost anywhere in thecity, Shwedagon is located to the north ofcentral Yangon, between People’s Park andKandawgyi.The admission fee, which goes to the government(see p 21 ), includes a lift ride to theraised platform of the stupa. Of course, likemost local visitors, you may walk up one ofthe long graceful entrances, by far the moreexciting method of entry. The north gate isespecially photogenic at night.The following details the history and attributesof the main structure. Freelanceguides (they’ll locate you before you canfind them) at the stupa can fill in the detailsabout the surrounding elements.HistoryThe great golden dome rises 322ft above itsbase. According to legend this stupa – of thesolid zedi (conelike) type – is 2500 years old,but archaeologists suggest that the originalstupa was built by the Mon people sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries.In common with many other ancient zedi inearthquake-prone Myanmar, it has been rebuiltmany times, and its current form datesback only to 1769.During the Bagan period of Myanmar’shistory (10th to 14th centuries), the storyof the stupa emerged from the mists of legendto become hard fact. Near the top of theeastern stairway you can see an inscriptionrecording the history of the stupa to 1485.43YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTS
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Page 3 and 4: 10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
Page 5 and 6: Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
Page 7: Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
Page 10 and 11: 13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
Page 13 and 14: 16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
Page 15 and 16: 18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
Page 17 and 18: 20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
Page 19 and 20: 22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
Page 21 and 22: 24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
Page 23 and 24: 26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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Page 28 and 29: YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
Page 30 and 31: 33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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Page 34 and 35: To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
Page 36 and 37: 40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
Page 40 and 41: 44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
Page 42 and 43: 46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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Page 46 and 47: 50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
Page 48 and 49: 52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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Page 52 and 53: 56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
Page 54 and 55: 58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
Page 56 and 57: 60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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Page 60 and 61: 64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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Page 66 and 67: 70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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Page 70 and 71: AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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Page 80 and 81: 84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver
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Page 84 and 85: 88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Lt
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew
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120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoa
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122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHo
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Jasmin RdSwel Daw St‚124BAGAN & C
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126BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND B
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134SPIRULINAAn algae that grows in
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136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-B
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KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Temples of Baganæ Top SightsAbeyad
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small, square monastery platform, c
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HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of prim
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KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Maj
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that temple styles changed in Bagan
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ick monasteries in Bagan were singl
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THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills
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169Jinghong4SHANSTATEMong LaWan Nye
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Return the way you came until you r
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ooms and lots of potted greenery. M
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BUSES & PICK-UP TRUCKS FROM KALAW17
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Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE
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Mingala MarketMARKET(Map p 178 ; Yo
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TOFU & HOT SPRINGSLocated on the no
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y concepts such as Shan guacamole,
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From Nyaung Ohak, a covered stairwa
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oat’s motor. Bring ear plugs or s
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also be called the Shan Fashion Mus
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look for the narrow alley with the
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and travel to the border areas is s
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Kengtung (Kyaingtong)æ Top SightsW
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BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
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NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
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Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
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Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
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Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
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Legend claims that many figures wer
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ÉÉSTART EINDAWYA PAYAFINISH VIEW
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105 and 206 are windowless. You can
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5Eating & DrinkingMandalay’s dini
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Sin Chun Yin BARBECUE $(Map p 202 ;
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pay commissions to drivers or guide
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WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
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MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Technically, U Bein’s Bridge is p
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high and 9ft in circumference. The
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will probably be charged $3 for a M
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TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
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PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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State and Xishuangbanna (China) in
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239» Journeys are fastest in autum
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INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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merous remnant bricks and posts rem
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lock inland from there are the hote
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IRRAWADDY DOLPHINSThe Irrawaddy dol
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St, with many beer stations in the
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TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY-LA
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-La
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play areas add to the attraction fo
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges
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Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...
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MU-SE & THE MYANMAR-CHINA BORDER267
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDA
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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