lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (178mi); InternationalOkkalapa38Mandalay (400mi) AirportDagonPweseikkonMyothitInsein GeneralYwamaHospitalHsin Hpyu DawPhuka StKyaukyedwinInsein Kyauk InseinDaw KyiTadagaleYANGONGyogoneSwedaw StMayangonYeguTo Hliang Thar Yar Thamaing Minn Lane RakhaingBus TerminalMonte & FreshMahapasana(6.2mi)Seafood5Sangha Kaba Aye PayaOkkyinHospitalMyanmar Gems Museum& Gems MarketChanmyay YeikthaMeditation CentreParami Women andThirimyaingSouth Children HospitalYangonInya Lake L'Opera OkkalaCircleHotel RestaurantLineKanbeInyaKamayutLakePun HlaingBauktawGolf EstateInlayAmathayaBayintnaungKuonRdSawa Factory RdHlaing RiverLanInthitRdseinPan Hlaing RiverYwar CreekButte yon RdPyayKyHledanPyay RdHanthawadyKyemyindaing(Station Rd)aikPanhlaingParami RdInsein RdAhlone RdAhlone0 2 km0 1 mileRdYangon Highlights1 Offer a slack-jawed prayerof wonder at the ShwedagonPaya (p 43 ), the pyramid ofgold that is the Burma of old2 Pick up some Burmesestyleslippers or a new longyiat Bogyoke Aung San Market(p 67 )3 Massage the person-sizedtoes of the jewel-bedeckedWineKamayutPyay RdSanchaungYangonPagodaPyay RdUniversity AvePyay RdRdRiverRdKaba Aye Pagoda RdKokkine RdShwedagonPayaNationalMuseumDagonBogyoke AungSan MarketDowntown YangonWalking TourStrand RdNgaParamiYankinTamweBahanMyittarChaukhtatgyi NyuntPayaThuwunnaBridgeSule PayaRdStThudhamarenlightened one at theChaukhtatgyi Paya (p 47 )4 Have your palm read onthe watercolour streets andsearch for a glittering payaand Chinese dragons on ourdowntown Yangon walkingtour (p54 )5 Caffeinate, eavesdrop onthe gossip and grab a snackRdOak Pone Seik RdKanbe RdKandawgyiLakeMoeYeikCreekMingalaTaungNyuntWai ZaBo Minn Yaung RdThan Thu Mar RdThitsar RdThu MingaMyittar RdYan Tar RdTamweThaketaBridgeMa Hiwa GoneaPyi Htaung Main RdYangon PazundaungDawbonMahabandoolaBridgeBotataunglar RdPin Lon RdYa DaNar RdThin Gan Gyun RdThanthumar RdYan Pyae StMan Pyae Stat one of Yangon’s teahouses(p63 )6 See Yangon’s ’burbs froma very crowded train on theYangon Circle Line (p 50 )7 Witness the treasures ofMyanmar's past at the poorlymaintained but worthwhileNational Museum (p41 ).Myin Taw Taw St
WHITE MARBLE & WHITE ELEPHANTSThere are numerous Buddhist monuments in the suburbs surrounding Yangon, butKyauk Daw Kyi (Map p 38 ; Bargaryar St; admission free; h6am-6pm), an immense seatedBuddha, is undoubtedly the most impressive. Carved from a single piece of marble foundoutside Mandalay in 1999, the partially finished statue was painstakingly transported toYangon by boat and train (on a specially built track) a year later, events that are depictedin the complex’s modern murals. After the detailing was finished, the Buddha was positionedat its current home at the top of a hill and encased in glass.Couple a visit here with the nearby Hsin Hpyu Daw (Map p 38 ; admission free; h8am-5pm), an unmarked park across the street where two white elephants are held. The elephants– actually light pink in colour – were found upcountry and brought to Yangon in2002, their discovery regarded, by the military at least, as a good omen for the country.39YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTSIn late 2007 Yangon was the centre of hugenationwide fuel protests, which were led byBuddhist monks. The protests quickly escalatedinto antigovernment demonstrations,which resulted in the deaths of many protestorsand worldwide condemnation.In May 2008 the worst natural disaster inMyanmar’s recent history hit the south of thecountry (see p 305 for more). Yangon was declareda disaster area by Myanmar’s government.Many of the city’s pagodas, temples,shops and hotels had minor to serious damagefrom falling trees, lampposts and fences.However, when reconstruction work began, itwas found that most of the city had escapedmajor structural damage. By mid-June 2008electricity and telecommunications were backto normal, and shops and restaurants had reopenedwith brand-new corrugated-tin roofs.HistoryMyanmar’s biggest city, Yangon is comparativelyyoung. It became the capital only in1885 when the British completed their conquestof northern Myanmar, and Mandalay’sbrief period as the centre of the last Burmesekingdom ended.Despite its short history as the seat of nationalgovernment, Yangon has been in existencefor a long time – although mostly as asmall town – in comparison to places suchas Bago (Pegu), Pyay (Prome) or Thaton. In1755 King Alaungpaya conquered centralMyanmar and built a new city on the siteof Yangon, which at that time was knownas Dagon. Yangon means ‘end of strife’:the king rather vainly hoped that with theconquest of central Myanmar, his struggleswould be over. In 1756, with the destructionof Thanlyin (Syriam) across the river, Yangonalso became an important seaport.In 1841 the city was virtually destroyed byfire; the rebuilt town again suffered extensivedamage during the Second Anglo-BurmeseWar in 1852. The British, the new masters,rebuilt the capital to its present plan and corruptedthe city’s name to Rangoon.In 1988 around 15% of Yangon’s city-centrepopulation – all squatters – were forced tomove to seven myo thit (new towns) northeastof the city centre. Many of the old colonialbuildings once occupied by the squattershave now been refurbished for use as offices,businesses and apartments.The city changed dramatically followingthe 1989 banishment of socialism. Startingin the early 1990s, the government begansprucing up the city’s appearance by cleaningthe streets and painting many publicbuildings. Since 1992, when the procapitalistGeneral Than Shwe took power, new carsand trucks have taken to city roads, mobilephones are commonly seen in the city centreand satellite dishes dot the horizon.In November 2005, quite unexpectedly, thegovernment announced that the newly constructedcity of Nay Pyi Taw in central Myanmarwas to be the nation’s capital. Despitethe government upping sticks for the newcapital, Yangon remains the commercial anddiplomatic capital and by far the largest city.1SightsCITY CENTREBotataung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEbuil'teqC='.urC"(Map p 42 ; Strand Rd; admission $2, camera $1) Oneof Yangon’s ‘big three’ payas, and said to containhair relics of the Buddha, the BotataungPaya was named after the 1000 military leaderswho escorted relics of the Buddha fromIndia to Myanmar over 2000 years ago (Bo
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Page 3 and 4: 10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
Page 5 and 6: Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
Page 7: Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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Page 15 and 16: 18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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Page 21 and 22: 24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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Page 30 and 31: 33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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Page 46 and 47: 50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
Page 48 and 49: 52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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Page 52 and 53: 56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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Page 70 and 71: AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE O
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew
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120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoa
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122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHo
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Jasmin RdSwel Daw St‚124BAGAN & C
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126BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND B
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134SPIRULINAAn algae that grows in
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136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-B
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KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Temples of Baganæ Top SightsAbeyad
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small, square monastery platform, c
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HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of prim
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KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Maj
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that temple styles changed in Bagan
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ick monasteries in Bagan were singl
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THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills
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169Jinghong4SHANSTATEMong LaWan Nye
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Return the way you came until you r
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ooms and lots of potted greenery. M
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BUSES & PICK-UP TRUCKS FROM KALAW17
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Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE
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Mingala MarketMARKET(Map p 178 ; Yo
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TOFU & HOT SPRINGSLocated on the no
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y concepts such as Shan guacamole,
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From Nyaung Ohak, a covered stairwa
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oat’s motor. Bring ear plugs or s
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also be called the Shan Fashion Mus
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look for the narrow alley with the
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and travel to the border areas is s
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Kengtung (Kyaingtong)æ Top SightsW
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BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
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NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
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Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
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Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
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Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
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Legend claims that many figures wer
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ÉÉSTART EINDAWYA PAYAFINISH VIEW
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105 and 206 are windowless. You can
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5Eating & DrinkingMandalay’s dini
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Sin Chun Yin BARBECUE $(Map p 202 ;
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pay commissions to drivers or guide
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WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
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MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Technically, U Bein’s Bridge is p
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high and 9ft in circumference. The
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will probably be charged $3 for a M
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TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
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PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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State and Xishuangbanna (China) in
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239» Journeys are fastest in autum
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INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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merous remnant bricks and posts rem
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lock inland from there are the hote
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IRRAWADDY DOLPHINSThe Irrawaddy dol
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St, with many beer stations in the
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TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY-LA
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-La
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play areas add to the attraction fo
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges
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Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...
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MU-SE & THE MYANMAR-CHINA BORDER267
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDA
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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