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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U (Myohaung)0 800 mWESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATE1233#ÚShittaung Paya Mahabodhi# Ú25 Shwegu4#Ú #þ # Ú9# ##ÚDukkanthein Paya Ú Ú Andaw12 # Ú Paya# ÿ# ÚKothaung1910# ÿ# Ú16#ó# Ú<strong>11</strong>PayaMrauk U#ÿHotelLokamanaung # Ú# Ú 1 ShwegudaungRhill7 # Ú# ÿ 2914 # ˜ ú#24ú#22 5 #â21 # ÿ17Waze Creek# 28Market # æ# Ú13## ÿÿ# î2026Phara Baw Cree k15# ÿð#AAungdat Creek23ú#f#30## ÿ 2718BandoolaKyaung # ÚFor visitors coming on pre-arranged privateboats, it’s necessary to let the driverknow how much time you’ll need in MraukU (though it can often be changed, with anextra charge). Two full days is the minimumnecessary to see the area; add on another forthe day trip to the Chin villages (recommended)and another if you plan to explore on yourown after you’ve seen the greatest hits.HistoryMrauk U (meaning, bizarrely, Monkey Egg)was the last great Rakhaing capital for 354years, from 1430 to 1784, when it was oneof the richest cities in Asia. In its heyday, itserved as a free port, trading with the MiddleEast, Asia, Holland, Portugal and Spain.The Portuguese Jesuit priest, A. Farinha,who visited in the 17th century, called it‘a second Venice’ while other visitors comparedit to London or Amsterdam. Littleremains of the European quarter, DaingriKan (about 3 miles south of Mrauk U’s currentcentre) other than ruins and a Hindutemple.The Mrauk U dynasty was much fearedby the peoples of the Indian subcontinentand central Myanmar. Japanese Christiansfleeing persecution in Nagasaki were hiredas bodyguards for the king. At Mrauk U’speak, King Minbin (1531–53) created aB‚Aleze Creek2# æLaksaykanLakeC# Ú6naval fleet of some 10,000 war boats thatdominated the Bay of Bengal and Gulf ofMartaban. Many of Mrauk U’s finest temples(Shittaung, Dukkanthein, Laymyetnhaand Shwetaung) were built during hisreign.In the late 18th century, the Konbaungdynasty asserted its power over the regionand Mrauk U was integrated into the Bamarkingdoms centred on Mandalay.After the First Anglo–Burmese War of1824–26, the British Raj annexed Rakhaingand set up its administrative headquartersin Sittwe, thus turning Mrauk U into a politicalbackwater virtually overnight.A rare incidence of the military bowing topopular opinion occurred here in late 2010when a few brave locals protested againstthe planned route of a new railway linkingSittwe with Minbu, construction of whichwas damaging temples and sites within thearchaeological area. The project was haltedand the railway’s route changed.1SightsThe original site of Mrauk U is spread over17.5 sq miles, though the town today andbulk of the temples to visit cover a 2.7-sqmilearea. With a bike, a packed lunch andD123

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