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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETAUNGGOKSTOP OVERIf you’re planning on connecting toSittwe from Ngapali Beach by boat,you’re most likely going to have to overnightin Taunggok. Only a couple of verybasic guesthouses near the bus stationtake foreigners. Be prepared at the RoyalGuest House (%61088; r K6000) forlumpy beds and no hot water.7 ShoppingThe broad souvenir selection at Htay Htay’s(see p 273 ) is worth a browse and you canwatch fabric weavers working on looms atthe rear.Ngapali Art Gallery (www.ngapaliartgallery.com; h9am-6pm) In Lin Tha Village, justbeyond the north end of Ngapali Beach, isthe atelier and gallery of San Naing whosemainly abstract canvases are priced from$100 to around $4500.Gallerie Htein Lin Thar (h9am-9pm) Nextto Ngapali Art Gallery and representing arange of artists selling colourful works. Agift shop and cafe were in the process ofbeing set up when we dropped by.Wai Bar La (Main Rd, near entrance to SandowayResort; h8am-8pm) Attractive woodcarvings by the son of the craftsman whodecorated the Sandoway Resort.8InformationNgapali Dispensary (%42233; h9am-noon,1-4pm) is a charity-built clinic across from SandowayResort with English-speaking staff.Upscale hotels allow nonguests to use theirinternet (per 30 minutes/hour $3/6) or there’sa small internet shack (one hour K3000;h9am-9pm) opposite the Pleasant View Resort.Most hotels can place international calls ($6per minute).8Getting There & AwayAirThandwe airport is named for the town 4 milesinland, but is closer to Ngapali village. Hotelbuses meet planes typically offering free transportto Ngapali Beach.Both Air Bagan (%42429) and Air Mandalay(%42404) serve Yangon ($78 to $86; daily; 50mins) and Sittwe ($65 to $71; daily; 40 mins)Air Mandalay offer a daily connection from (butnot to) Heho/Inle Lake ($116; one hour). Connectionsare less frequent from May throughSeptember.BoatCatch a bus to Taunggok. Fifty miles or sonorth of Thandwe, Taunggok is a stopping-offpoint for travellers between Pyay (Prome) andThandwe by bus, or for catching the MalikhaExpress (%60127; $40; nine hours) boat toSittwe at 7am on Monday, Wednesday andSaturday.BusAung Thit Sar (%65363) run daily buses toYangon via Thandwe and Pyay (K15,500; 17 to 18hours); you’ll pay the same if you only go as faras Pyay (12 hours). Tickets are sold by hotels inNgapali Beach, and the bus will pick you up fromyour accommodation. The road – particularlybetween Taunggok and Pyay – has the reputationof being one of Myanmar’s hardest, bounciest,most stomach-churning trips. Bring warmclothes, as the ride over the mountains at nightgets cold. For more details see p 146 .The other just-as-rough option to Yangon(K15,500; 17 to 18 hours) is via Gwa (supposedlyeight hours).8Getting AroundPick-up trucks run frequently from Thandwe toNgapali Beach and on to Lon Tha village (K400,one hour). Catch one in either direction on themain road.Bicycles can be rented from most hotels forK2500 per day; and a few motorbikes are availablefor K15,000.Thandweo®tâE%43 / POP C50,000Located about 4 miles inland to the northeastof Ngapali Beach, Thandwe fills a hillyvalley with its low-key streets. It’s been a keyRakhaing town for many centuries. Whenthe British stationed a garrison here aroundthe turn of the 20th century, they twistedthe name into Sandoway.There are no licensed places to stay andeating boils down to noodles around themarket, or rice-’n’-curry restaurants on sidestreets a block north and south. While nota major destination, Thandwe makes for anice visit if you’re staying at Ngapali Beachand fancy a change of scene.