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Lin Thar Oo Lodge HOTEL $$(%42322, in Yangon 01-503 721; www.lintharoo-ngapali.com; s/d from $30/35; a) Offers 20mostly sea-facing, simple, cottage-typerooms, the more expensive have a minibar,a TV and air con. Three basic rooms ($25)with a fan and cold-water showers are setback from the beach in a concrete block.Electricity is on from 6pm to 6am.Silver Beach Hotel HOTEL $$(%in Yangon 01-381 898; www.silverbeachhotelngapali.com; r/ste $65/100; ai) At the beach’snorth end, Silver Beach is the cheapest wayto go for 24-hour electricity. The prim, redroofedcottages conjure up the look of a1950s British holiday camp, with dated furnishingsand facilities to match.Amazing Ngapali Resort RESORT $$$(%420<strong>11</strong>, in Yangon 01-203 500; www.amazing-hotel.com; s/d from $120/125; aWs) Favoured bytour groups, the spacious and well-equipped36 double-storey villas at this resort nearthe airport all face the beach. You’re isolatedhere, though, from the more appealing NgapaliBeach several miles south.Under construction at the time of research,but looking promising, are the luxuriousTamarind Resort next to the Aureum Palaceand the 28 bungalow Amara Ocean Resort(www.amaragroup.net; d from $350; aiWs) runby a Burmese-Myanmar couple and the onlyhotel north of Thandwe Airport.5Eating & DrinkingCheap, fresh and plentiful, Ngapali’s seafood(particularly fresh squid dunked inspiced ginger-and-garlic sauce) ranks easilyamong Myanmar’s best dining. The longlights that line the western horizon offshoreat dusk are fishing boats using bulbs to attractsquid.A dozen family-run restaurants of varyingquality cluster outside the gates of hotels.These have practically identical menus(posted in English) and prices. A dish ofcrab, squid or barracuda starts from K2000or K2500, barbecued tiger prawns are K3500to K5000, and lobster is K15,000 and up.Food is more nicely prepared and presentedinside the hotels – but you’ll generally paymore for this.oPleasant ViewIslet Restaurant SEAFOOD, BAMAR $$(near Pleasant View Resort; dishes K4000-K10,000;hlunch & dinner) Set on a rocky islet at thebeach’s south end (you may have to wadethrough knee-deep surf to get to it), this stylisheatery serves very tasty seafood at a betterprice than most hotels. It’s also perfectfor sunset cocktails and nibbles.oSandoway ResortRestaurant ASIAN, EUROPEAN $$$(Sandoway Resort; dishes $6-48; h7am-10pm) Anelegant place to dine by the beach with themost creative menu among the big resortrestaurants. The Italian co-owners ensurethat the pasta ($10 to $14) is made al denteand you can also dip into local dishes, suchas laphet thoke (tea-leaf salad; $6).Htay Htay’s Kitchen BAMAR, CHINESE $$(Ngapali Rd; dishes K1500-K3500; h7am-<strong>11</strong>pm)At the north end of the beach, this restaurantand gift shop is run by a very friendlycouple. Expect the usual grilled seafood andcurries as well as some more unusual items,such as various types of tempura and a saladand drinks made using giant lemons fromMrauk U as an ingredient.Brilliance BAMAR, SEAFOOD $$(dishes K1500-4000; h7am-10pm) This is a simpleplace, but it serves fairly brilliant seafoodthat’s far more reasonably priced than in thebig hotels.Two Brothers Restaurant BAMAR, SEAFOOD $$(Ngapali Rd; dishes R3000-7000; hnoon-9.30pm)One of the more reliable operations on theNgapali Rd strip, with a touch more classin its overall presentation. Tables have nattyblue-and-white tablecloths and there’s wineavailable.Amata Resort Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $$$(Amata Resort; dishes $8-20; h7-10am, <strong>11</strong>am-2pm& 6.30-10.30pm) This hotel restaurant overlooksthe pool and beach. It serves prettygood pizzas ($8 to $10) and a real-deal beefburger ($8).Lili’s Bar INTERNATIONAL $$(Laguna Lodge; meals $4-6; h7am-<strong>11</strong>pm) A cutespot in the palm-shaded sand with a lazydog or two lolling around, fake turtles, generousplates of pasta and $2 mojitos.Catch/Sunset Bar INTERNATIONAL $$$(Bayview Beach Resort; dishes $5-24) Bayview’srestaurant is called Catch and is locatedaway from the beach, but everyone eatsfrom the Catch’s menu by dining at SunsetBar, which is by the beach. It’s good for filletsof barracuda, burgers and pizzas.273RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE EATING EATING NGAPALI & & BEACH DRINKING

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