lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

MU-SE & THE MYANMAR–CHINA BORDER267The border crossing between Mu-se and Ruili (Shweli) in China is nominally open totravellers. However, getting to Mu-se requires a permit that will take at least two weeks tobe issued and even then is only available if you book a package including car, driver andguide through Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) in Yangon (p 69 ) or Mandalay (p 219 ). Thiswill cost around $200 from Lashio where your guide will collect you at a pre-designatedhotel. You’ll need to have your Chinese visa already. In reverse you’ll need to organisethings through a travel agency in Kunming where there’s also a Myanmar consulate(%0871-360 3477; www.mcg-kunming.com; Room A504, Long Yuan Hao Zhai, 166 Wei Yuan Jie;h8.30am-noon & 1-2pm Mon-Fri).Permits are also required for the appallingly rough Mu-se–Namhkam–Bhamoroad. MTT Mandalay (p 219 ) can fix things and provide a Lashio–Bhamo vehicle for$350/370/390 (one/two/three passengers) but again you’ll need at least two weeksprep time. It might take much longer.TToursFor foreign visitors the only way to visit ison a pre-arranged tour. Allow ample timefor organising practicalities as your agencywill need to obtain permits that usuallytake an absolute minimum of two weeksto issue, often much longer. The cheapesttours usually cost from around $150 perperson per day (minimum four days) plusflights to Putao. Tour package fees generallyinclude food, permits and excursionsand/or treks.In the dry season, an appealing part-dayactivity is a boat trip along sections of thedeep green Malikha River alternating betweenrapids and calm pebble-bottomedshallows and passing beaches, sculptedrocks, unspoilt villages and rainforest junglesections.When water levels are higher, whitewaterrafting is a possibility. This might becombined with an interesting excursion toMachanbaw (40 minutes’ drive from Putao).With an attractive setting beside the mirrorcalmMalikha River, Machanbaw was the district’sformer colonial administrative centreand retains a well-spaced scattering of olderBritish-era buildings.Tours typically include some trekking.Even for just a two-day walk you’ll probablyget porters, a good cook and accommodationprovided en route whether campingor in a very basic village homestay or cabin.Longer treks include a 14-day hike to thepeak of 11,926ft Mt Phon Kan Razi, forviews over the Myanmar Himalaya and theMishimi Hills of neighbouring ArunachalPradesh. For an excellent visual impressionof the route’s attractions and challenges seewww.hsdejong.nl/myanmar/putao.Don’t underestimate the rigour of hikinghere. Even the shortest loop includes longdays of fairly strenuous gradients, a highchance of leeches and you’ll need to be preparedfor damp, cold weather.4Sleeping & EatingIn coming years, a major expansion in facilitiescan be expected if Putao developsas planned into Myanmar’s ecotourismgateway. For now, however, unless you’reallowed to stay at the basic ‘army’ guesthouse(www.traveltomyanmar.com/hotel_putao.htm), all tours start and finish with at leastone night at either the stunning but secretiveand massively expensive Tay Za–ownedMalikha Lodge (www.malikhalodge.com),around an hour’s drive from Putao, or at themore affordable Putao Trekking House(www.putaotrekkinghouse.com), a perfectly decentplace but with some inconsistenciesand indifferent food served in a glaringly litdining hall. The cabin rooms are designedso that the small verandahs face a centrallawn rather than the distant mountainhorizon.8Getting There & AwayAIR Twice weekly Air Bagan fl ights to Putao costaround $180 from Yangon, $120 from Mandalayand $60 from Myitkyina but without tour permitsyou won’t be allowed to board the plane. Tourscan be organised through Malikha Lodge, Journeys(www.journeysmyanmar.com), MTT (p 69 )and assorted Yangon agencies.Road transport from Myitkyina would beappallingly rough but isn’t permitted anywayfor foreigners. Locals claim that there are onlyaround 20 cars in the whole Putao area.NORTHERN FAR NORTH MYANMAR TOURS TOURS