lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges andplunging ravines. The surrounding slopesare covered by tea plantations that are themainstay of Namhsan’s economy. Two possibleone-day return hikes take you up to superbviewpoints at Taung Yo monastery andatop Loi San (‘Ruby Mountain’). The scenic(if rough) journey to reach Namhsan fromHsipaw is an attraction in itself while trekkingback again to Hsipaw (two nights andthree days) is an ideal way to stay in timelessvillages en route. Hsipaw’s Mr Charles GuestHouse can help suggest guides. Namhsanhas a very simple guesthouse (per personK3000) and in the past, some locals have offeredhomestays.8 Getting There & AwayShared jeeps to Namhsan (K6000) run at leastfi ve times a week from Kyaukme bus stand pickingup passengers in Hsipaw (same price) bypre-arrangement on %09 4730 6067. Ask yourguesthouse to call for you. From Hsipaw, rentingyour own jeep will cost around K60,000.The beautiful but tough motorbike ride takesalmost four hours: the route is signed at a roundabout17 miles towards Namtu from Hsipaw.Maps show a direct Namhsan to Kyaukme secondaryroad. Part of this road is out of bounds toforeigners and you won’t get through the halfwaycheckpoint if you’re heading to Namhsan.However, returning that way you might make it.Ask local advice before trying this.Lashiol;"rúui"%082 / POP C130,000 / ELEV 2805FTLashio (pronounced ‘lar-show’) is a sprawlingmarket town with a significant Chinesepopulation. You’re most likely to come herefor the airport – the nearest to Hsipaw. Or,if you’ve managed to organise the necessarypermits, to meet your guide for the fourhourdrive to the Chinese border at Mu-se(see boxed text, p 267 ). Lashio is a large butunassuming, place that straggles up a gentlysloping valley ringed by dragon-backedridges, abrupt hillocks and terraced vegetableplots. Once the seat of an importantShan sao pha (sky lord), the town played apivotal role in the fight against the Japanesein WWII. It was the starting point ofthe Burma Road, which supplied food andarms to Chiang Kai-Shek’s Kuomintangarmy. Not much evidence of either historicalperiod remains today, and most of thecity’s old wooden homes were destroyed ina disastrous 1988 fire. However, a few interestingpagodas survive amongst the lacklustre20th-century architecture.1Sights & ActivitiesLashio’s sights wouldn’t warrant a significantdetour but there’s plenty to investigateshould you find yourself here for a day.Thatana (Sasana) 2500-Year PayaBUDDHIST STUPALashio’s most evocative sight, this small gildedstupa gleams alluringly among ridge-toptrees above the town centre. It was reportedlybuilt by Sao Hon Phan, the last Shan‘sky king’. Mist-layered after dawn, the townlooks its best from the stupa’s terrace. Walkingup here takes around 20 minutes followingthe second lane that slopes northeastafter the Kachin Baptist Church. The fastestway back down is a long steep stairway passinga large, distinctive concrete ball monumentcalled Khabar Aye.Central LashioNEIGHBOURHOODA few decrepit old wooden buildings andan eye-catching central mosque aren’tquite enough to bring a photogenic qualityto predominantly concrete central Lashio.However, the pre-dawn morning market(Bogyoke Rd; h4.30am-7am) is particularlyendearing when many vegetable sellerslight their wares with flickering candles.Between the large main market and theNannhaewon Amusement Park, is theeye-catching Mahamyatmuni Paya (La MaDaw St), an open-sided pavilion enshrininga dazzle-faced seated Buddha along thelines of Mandalay’s Mahamuni. If you walktowards the Hsipaw bus stand you’ll passthe pretty 1994 Maha Bodayaong temple,whose unrefined seven-storey church-liketower offers decent townscape views –assuming you find a monk who’ll let youclimb it.Quan Yin ShangCHINESE TEMPLEPart way up the wooded ridge at the southernedge of town, this large temple-nunneryis the principal place of worship for Lashio’slarge Chinese community. Squint briefly atthe main buildings and they appear to beolde-worlde Chinese temples with classic tiptiltedtraditional roofs. However, on closerinspection they are somewhat gaudy 20thcenturyversions while the flanking bricknuns’ residences are contrastingly dour. Themain prayer hall contains a trio of buddha-like263MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO SIGHTS LASHIO& ACTIVITIES
‚264NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIO66 6666666666666666666666Lashio1234#£666665AEnlargementLanmataw St5#Ú# ñ14 # ÿ# ˜12# ÿ# ð23 9#æ# æ 6 1 # ú 176# ˜ # ß 16# ú# ÿ # ú22 1513Bogyoke Rd#› 19A4#ÚShwebo Rd0 400 m0 0.2 miles‚Station RdThipaw RdKachinBaptist #ÜChurch10#æfigures held aloft on gilded, disembodiedhands. You might find visiting Quan YinShang worthwhile to discover the surroundinglow-rise back-streets and for glimpses of ridgeand karst horizons. From the market area,three-wheel pick-ups charge K3000 return.Mansu PayaBUDDHIST MONASTERIESBeyond the bus station, the main road bendsbetween the two halves of the gold and stuccoMansu Paya, said to be over 250 yearsold. One side of the monastery is archetypalShan, the other is Burmese with a notableoctagonal stupa. Hidden by school buildingsBogyoke RdB‚BTheinni RdSamkaung StTo Quan YinShang (200m)See Enlargement# Ú <strong>11</strong>#á 3Theinni Rd0 800 m#e 0 0.4 milesCDTo Ye Pu San (4mi);Mu-se (100mi)–#18# ˜ 20CPyikaungsu Rd2 # Ú21#›# ÿGreat CityHotel7# Ú # Ú8just off the main road, around a mile furthernorth, is another century-old Shan monastery,Kamenjaung Paya.Ye Pu SanHOT SPRINGSerpUcn'"(local/foreigner K100/$3, parking K500) Thispopular local bathing place is a pea-greenartificial pond ringed by a handful of stallsand crossed by a rickety pair of rough plankbridges. The water is perfectly bathwaterwarmand the rural agricultural setting ispleasant enough but it’s hard to justify thehefty foreigner entry fee or the K3000 each‚D12345
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
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16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
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18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
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SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANG
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44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
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46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of Y
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50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
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52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHO
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56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIA
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64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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66YANGONfabric-based products, incl
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68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely n
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70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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YANGON©Lonely Planet Publications
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION76few yea
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION78from th
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80AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONfor dec
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82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTIN
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84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver
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‚86AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONB
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88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE O
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew
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120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoa
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122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHo
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Jasmin RdSwel Daw St‚124BAGAN & C
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126BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND B
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134SPIRULINAAn algae that grows in
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136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-B
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KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Temples of Baganæ Top SightsAbeyad
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small, square monastery platform, c
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HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of prim
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KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Maj
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that temple styles changed in Bagan
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ick monasteries in Bagan were singl
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THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills
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169Jinghong4SHANSTATEMong LaWan Nye
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Return the way you came until you r
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ooms and lots of potted greenery. M
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BUSES & PICK-UP TRUCKS FROM KALAW17
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Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE
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Mingala MarketMARKET(Map p 178 ; Yo
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TOFU & HOT SPRINGSLocated on the no
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y concepts such as Shan guacamole,
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From Nyaung Ohak, a covered stairwa
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oat’s motor. Bring ear plugs or s
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also be called the Shan Fashion Mus
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look for the narrow alley with the
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and travel to the border areas is s
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Kengtung (Kyaingtong)æ Top SightsW
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BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
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NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
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Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
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Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
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Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
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Legend claims that many figures wer
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ÉÉSTART EINDAWYA PAYAFINISH VIEW
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Page 220 and 221: WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
Page 222 and 223: MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Page 230 and 231: TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
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Page 234 and 235: PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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Page 240 and 241: INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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Page 300 and 301: 300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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Page 306 and 307: 306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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312PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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