lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

256NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIOTHE GOKTEIK VIADUCTA highlight of the long, slow Mandalay–Lashio train ride is the mighty Gokteik Viaduct(gut'qip't®t;" ) about 34 miles northeast of Pyin Oo Lwin. Constructed in 1901 by contractorsfrom the Pennsylvania Steel Company it bridges the Gokteik Gorge, a densely forestedravine that cuts an unexpectedly deep gash through the otherwise mildly rolling landscape.At 318ft high and 2257ft across, it was the second-highest railway bridge in the world whenit was constructed, and remains Myanmar’s longest. Trains slow to a crawl when crossingthe viaduct to avoid putting undue stress on the ageing superstructure, which, despitesome 1990s renovation work, still creaks ominously as trains edge their way across.In either direction, the best views are from north-facing windows, that is the left sideif you’re heading towards Lashio. It’s also visible through the trees for some time as thetrain winds down from the plateau and there are fine views from parts of Gokteik station(near the viaduct’s western end) but beware that the train only stops there very briefly.Theoretically taking photographs of the viaduct is banned for ‘security reasons’, but inreality nobody seems to care.To get here from Pyin Oo Lwin takethe main Mandalay highway. In Anisakantown take the second asphalted turn right(signposted) and keep right past the firstlarge pagoda. At the end of this road a pairof basic shack-restaurants mark the startof a forest trail along which the falls’ baseare reached by a 45-minute trek. Whilethe way isn’t too difficult to find, employingone of the sales kids as guide (K1000)can prove helpful especially if taking the‘alternative’ route back (very steep, almosta climb).The falls are best photographed in afternoonlight from the lower view-terraceof the fabulous (but government affiliated)Dat Taw Gyaik Waterfalls Resort (%50262;cottages $250) on other side of the amphitheatre.Each of its eight luxurious wooden bungalowscomes with a stocked drinks cabinetand a large balcony equipped with loungersand a two-person spa tub from which to enjoypartial waterfall views. To find the resorttake the easternmost asphalted turn northoff the Mandalay–Pyin Oo Lwin highway inAnisakan (signposted for a meditation centre)and turn left immediately after crossingthe railway.CyberCityNEW TOWNAbout 12 miles south of Pyin Oo Lwin atYatanarpon, CyberCity is part university Pwe Kauk Fallstown, part 21st-century Potëmkin villagewhere most of the numerous high-tech factoriesare said to be just shells with signboardsand oddments of trade waste leftconspicuously outside to look genuine. Thelong term idea is to incubate industries hereand attract inward investment once internationalsanctions fade.TOWARDS KYAUKMEIf you’re driving to Kyaukme/Hsipaw, noneof the following is more than a 2-mile detourfrom the main road but visiting by publictransport will prove awkward. A round-triphalf-day tour by motorcycle-taxi to all of theabove from Pyin Oo Lwin should cost aroundK10,000. Sites are reviewed from west to east.Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLEAlthough only finished in March 2000, thisdazzling pagoda is by far the region’s mostimpressive religious building. It enshrinesan enormous 17-ton white-marble buddhastatue that fell off a truck bound for Chinain April 1997. After several attempts to retrievethe buddha failed, it was decided thatthe statue ‘had decided to stay in Myanmar’.Eventually cranes were used to yank him upthe hill and a dazzling new golden pagodawas built for him. He is now draped in giltrobes and sits in a temple interior that’s anincredible overload of gold. The pagoda ison a hilltop, just south of the Lashio-boundhighway, around 15 minutes’ drive beyondPyin Oo Lwin’s vast Defense Forces TechnologicalAcademy compound. If you reach thetoll gates you’ve gone half a mile too far.WATERFALLepâ"ek;k'ert®xân'(admission K500, camera fee K300) CalledHampshire Falls in British times, Pwe Kaukis a fan of small weirs and splash pools ratherthan a dramatic waterfall but the forestglade setting is pretty. A series of little woodenbridges, souvenir stands and children’s