lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY–LASHIO ROUTE251Factors to consider:» If you want to cross the Chinese border, you’ll need to get permits and do weeks ofplanning (see the boxed text, p 267 )» Flying to/from Lashio is worth considering as a quick, comfortable way to link Hsipawwith Inle Lake or Yangon.» The Mandalay–Lashio railway journey is extraordinarily slow and bouncy enough toinspire seasickness. However, it does offers trainspotters the joy of crossing the remarkableGokteik Viaduct (see boxed text, p 256 ) between Kyaukme and Pyin Oo Lwin.» Cool, fresh Pyin Oo Lwin is barely two hours’ drive from Mandalay.» Contrary to what most Mandalay guesthouse owners will tell you, there is now anafternoon bus to Hsipaw (leaving Mandalay at 3.30pm).ing aspect is the way flowers and overhangingbranches frame views of Kandawgyi Lake’swooden bridges and small gilded pagoda.Admission costs include use of the swimmingpool, visits to the aviary (h8am-5pm), orchidgarden, butterfly museum (h8.30am-5pm)and the bizarre Nan Myint Tower (hlift operatestill 5pm). Looking like a space-rocketdesigned for a medieval Chinese Emperor,this 12-storey structure offers panoramicviews which are better appreciated from theexternal staircase than through the greasesmearedwindows of the observation deck.Annoyingly you can’t use your bicycle toget around the extensive site so bring walkingshoes and allow around two hours to doit justice. Using the southern entrance slightlyreduces the walking you have to do. By6pm either gate will likely be locked so watchthe time – there are no closure warnings.The garden’s two entrances are both onthe eastern side of Kandawgyi Lake, arounda mile south of smaller Kandawlay Lake.National Landmarks GardenMUSEUM(adult/child $4/2; h8am-6pm) This extensivehilly park is dotted with representations offamous landmarks from around Myanmar,in a selection of different scales. Some arepretty tacky. The entrance is across the mainroad from National Kandawgyi Gardens, alittle to the north of their southern (main)entrance. There is also an amusement park(adult/child $4/2; h8am-6pm) around 500 yardfurther north.Circular RoadNEIGHBOURHOODA good sprinkling of Pyin Oo Lwin’s trademarkcolonial era buildings lie dottedamid the southeastern woodland suburbsas you’ll see if you cycle Circular or ForestRoads round to the Candacraig Hotel or thesplendid former Croxton Hotel (GandamarMyaing Hotel; Circular Rd). Some look like 1920sBritish homes, others like Louisiana plantationhouses and the biggest have the air ofSt Trinian’s, as with Number 4 High School(Circular Rd) and the Survey Training Centre(Multi-Office Rd). Up near the Shan Market, afine half-timbered mansion is now a SeventhDay Adventist Church (Cherry St).Chan TakCHINESE TEMPLE(134 Forest Rd) This large, classically styled,if mostly modern, Chinese temple comescomplete with ornate stucco dragons, rockgardens, a vegetarian buffet restaurant, landscapedponds and a seven-layered Chinesestylepagoda.Candacraig HotelHISTORIC BUILDING(Thiri Myaing Hotel; %22047; Anawrattha Rd; s/d$42/48) Formerly the British Club, this classiccolonial pile comes complete with sideturrets and is set in attractively manicuredgardens. It makes a popular film set forBurmese movie-makers. However, many localsbelieve the building to be haunted, andWesterners tend to avoid it due to its governmentaffiliation (see p 21 ), so it is not unusualto find the eight slightly discoloured guestrooms mostly unoccupied. Disappointinglythere’s no raj-redolent bar.2 ActivitiesThe 18-hole Pyin Oo Lwin Golf Club(%22382; Golf Club Rd; green fee $10, caddy $4,club hire $5, shoe hire $1; h6am-6pm) is one ofMyanmar’s better golf courses. However, it’sgovernment run (see p 21 ) and has a strictdress code with collars, caps and rubberspikedshoes compulsory.MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO ACTIVITIESPYIN OO LWIN