lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

240NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYordering at) this attractive riverside place,hidden at the end of an improbable suburbanalley north of the Manao Park (around2 miles north of the centre). There’s also amore central branch but it’s without any ofthe charm.River View CHINESE $(Riverside; dim sum K500-700; h6am-10pm)Forgo your half-hearted hotel breakfastand stroll over to watch the sun rise fromthis open riverside terrace whose dim sumare the best in town. Numerous alternativesnacks are available and there’s a karaokesection at night. It’s directly south of themain vegetable market.Win Thu Zar BEER STATION $(Zyo Gyi St; draught beer K500; h10am-10pm)Facing the main market this attractive beergarden turns out typical barbecue offerings.Royal Kiss BAKERY, CAFE $(Swon Para Bwan St; snacks K500, coffee K600-1000; h9am-8pm) This conspicuous brightorangebakery bakes fluffy pastries andserves fresh fruit juices and real coffee (macchiatosK700). It’s near Myanma Airways.Bamboo Field Restaurant CHINESE $$(313 Pyi Htaung Su Rd; dishes K5000-9000, burgersK2000; h9am-10pm) On the main airportroad, four blocks northwest of the YMCA,the ‘attraction’ of this overpriced barn-like‘restobar’ is the nightly beauty-pageant-cumkaraokeshow by local girls (from 6.30pm).Night Market STREET FOOD $(Aung San Rd & Wai Maw St; h4.30-9.30pm)Stalls with various typical meals plus someKachin and Shan specialities.TRANSPORT OPTIONS TO MYITKYINA8InformationThe YMCA sells a K500 map of greater Myitkyinaand has a better street map on theirwall (albeit mostly in Burmese) that you canphotograph.MCC (Yan Aung Mien St; internet per hr K500)Fast connection, though several other internetplaces are more central.8Getting There & AwayAirOn arrival by air in Myitkyina you’ll be half-heartedlyquizzed by immigration police in the terminalbuilding. Then you walk out of the airportcompound before collecting your luggage. Don’tpanic – bags are delivered to a shed just outsidethe airport gates.Air Bagan (AB; %20308; Swon Para Bwan St;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)Book early.Myanma Airways (MA; %22545; hbookings8am-9.30am one day before flight) Tucked justoff Swon Para Bwan St, a half-block south ofAir Bagan, 200yd north of Myitkyina’s ‘second’(one-pole) clock tower. Schedules can beerratic, rather like the maintenance of theirgovernment-owned aircraft.There are fl ights to Myitkyina from the followingdestinations:Mandalay Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Fridayand Sunday ($95, AB); Monday, Wednesday,Friday and Saturday ($60, MA).Nay Pyi Taw Monday, Wednesday, Friday andSaturday ($95, MA).Putao Monday ($35, MA), Tuesday and Sunday($60, AB). With pre-arranged permits/touronly.Yangon Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday andSunday ($140, AB); Monday, Wednesday, Fridayand Saturday ($125, MA)The following table provides a quick comparison of the various ways of getting to Myitkyinafrom Mandalay. Ferry options will be faster southbound and in the rainy season (seeboxed text, p 239 for more details). All boat-ferry options require intermediate stops.TYPE OF TRAVEL DURATION FARE FREQUENCYAir 70min $60-95 nine flights weeklyBus not permitted not permittednot permittedFast boats 4-5 days K66,000 total see boxed text p 239Fast boats & bus 2-plus days K48,000 total alternate days on one sectionFerry & boats 6-plus days K30,000 plus $7 three ferries weeklyFerry & bus 5-plus days K12,000 plus $7 three ferries weeklyTrain 16-40hr $10-30 three daily