lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdNorthern MyanmarMyitkyina . . . . . . . . . . 236Bhamo (Banmaw) . . 242Katha . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Kyaukmyaung . . . . . . 246Shwebo . . . . . . . . . . . .247Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . . . . 250Kyaukme . . . . . . . . . . .257Hsipaw . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Lashio . . . . . . . . . . . . 263The Far North . . . . . . . 266Best Places to Stay» Dat Taw Gyaik WaterfallResort, (p 256 )» Mr Charles Guest House,(p 260 )» Malikha Lodge (p 267 )» Basic village homestaysaround Hsipaw (see p 262 )» Friendship Hotel, Bhamo(p 243 )Best Places to Eat» Club Terrace (p 254 )» Kiss Me, (p 237 )» Woodland (p 254 )» Feel (p 254 )Why Go?Fascinating northern Myanmar covers a vast area but for nowforeigners without special permits are essentially limited totwo main out-and-back routes. One of these climbs rapidlyfrom Mandalay to the British-era summer capital of Pyin OoLwin (Maymyo) then continues across the rolling Shan plateauto Lashio. The relatively cool days and crisp cold eveningsare refreshing and hikes take visitors into timeless Lisu,Palaung and Shan hill-villages, notably around Hsipaw.The second main option is taking a multiday ride alongthe mighty Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. You’ll need to allowa week or so if doing the whole stretch between Myitkyinaand Mandalay, but shorter versions are possible startingfrom Bhamo or Katha, the setting of George Orwell’s BurmeseDays. The main attractions are the people you’ll meetand the lazy, mesmerising journey.Far beyond Myitkyina lie the snow-capped peaks of Myanmar’sHimalaya. However, getting anywhere near theremeans joining expensive pre-organised fly-in/fly-out tours viaPutao for which permits take at least two weeks to arrange.When to GoNovember is probably the best time for boat travel on Ayeyarwady,with temperatures comfortable but water levelsstill high. As the season proceeds and river levels fall, boatstake longer and larger ferries may need to stop at night toavoid hidden sandbanks. As in Mandalay, the Ayeyarwadyvalley might have mildly nippy nights in midwinter but daysare warm and it gets progressively hotter into April beforethe rains start in May or June. The Shan Plateau offers aneasy escape to cooler days and nights that can feel positivelycold in the middle of winter. In Putao and the far north, rainis least likely in November and December but temperaturescan dip almost to freezing. Snow can hinder serious climbingexp<strong>edition</strong>s which are best timed for September or Octoberdespite the rain which makes far-north roads almostimpassable.
River234TIBET00200 km120 milesDibrugarhTezuINDIAHkakaboRazi(19,295ft)MountainsIceHkakabo RaziNational ParkNORTHERN MYANMARJorhatImphalTamuSittaungKalemyoKalewaKalayAirportSAGAINGREGIONPeyagyiTwin Daung(Spirulina Lake)MawlaikMonywaMonSAGAINGREGIONKhamti(Hkamti)HpakantRiverChindwinHomalinPaungbyinYe-UHukaung ValleyTiger ReserveKin-uTi-KyaingTagaungTanaiSHANSTATENamtuKACHINSTATENyaungbinMyitkyinaIndawgyiLake MogaungLontonTengchongHopinMohnyinNabaKathaRoads Closedto ForeignersMogokHukaungValleyRoads Closedto ForeignersShweguMomaukStone VillageBhamo RuiliShweliNamhsanShweboKyaukmyaung GokteikBudalinViaductPanglongPutaoKumon TaungAyeyarwadyRiverHsipawKyaukme445GokteikPwe Kauk Falls Peik ChinMandalayMyaung CaveWetwun44Anisakan Pyin Oo Lwin36Malikha RiverMyit-sonNamhkamValleyMaykhaMu-seNamhkamKutkaiRiverLuxi(Mangshi)Hsenwi3 Permit Requiredto ProceedLashio Beyond LashioCHINANorthern Myanmar Highlights1 Walk into unspoilt Shanand Palaung villages fromlovable Hsipaw (p 258 ), alaid-back plateau town withprincely connections2 Spend lazy days driftingdown the mighty AyeyarwadyRiver starting from Myitkyina(p236 ), with its colourfulmarket and dazzling festivals,or from pretty little Bhamo(p 242 )3 Be one of just a tinyhandful of foreigners whojump ship at Shwegu (p 244 )to discover the town’s historicisland monastery and forest ofmini-pagodas4 Investigate the ancientpottery traditions ofKyaukmyaung (p 246 )5 Discover George Orwellconnections in sleepy riversideKatha (p 245 )6 Take the cool upland airat Pyin Oo Lwin (p 250 ), theold British summer capital ofMyanmar
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
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16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
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18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
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SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANG
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44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
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46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of Y
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50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
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52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHO
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56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIA
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64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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66YANGONfabric-based products, incl
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68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely n
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70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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YANGON©Lonely Planet Publications
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION76few yea
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION78from th
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80AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONfor dec
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82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTIN
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84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver
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‚86AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONB
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88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE O
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew
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120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoa
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122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHo
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Jasmin RdSwel Daw St‚124BAGAN & C
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126BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND B
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134SPIRULINAAn algae that grows in
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136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-B
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KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Temples of Baganæ Top SightsAbeyad
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small, square monastery platform, c
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HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of prim
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KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Maj
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that temple styles changed in Bagan
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ick monasteries in Bagan were singl
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THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills
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169Jinghong4SHANSTATEMong LaWan Nye
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Return the way you came until you r
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ooms and lots of potted greenery. M
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BUSES & PICK-UP TRUCKS FROM KALAW17
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Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE
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Mingala MarketMARKET(Map p 178 ; Yo
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TOFU & HOT SPRINGSLocated on the no
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Page 196 and 197: BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
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Page 200 and 201: NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
Page 202 and 203: Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
Page 204 and 205: Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
Page 206 and 207: Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
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Page 222 and 223: MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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