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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVELIn a rare interview published in the magazine Future in April 2011, Tay Za, founderof the Htoo group of companies, said that when he started in business in 1984 hehad just US$12 to his name. Today, the 46-year-old is considered Myanmar’s richestprivate individual. He made his billions through a string of government-favouredbusinesses that includes exporting timber, gems and jade (he’s the president of theMyanmar Gems and Jewelry Entrepreneurs’ Association).This pantomime baddy of Myanmar’s economy is also the owner of Air Bagan andtwo luxury hotel chains: Aureum Palace (in Ngwe Saung, Ngapali, Bagan, Nay Pyi Tawand Pyin U Lwin) and Myanmar Treasure Resort (in Yangon, Pathein, Ngwe Saung,Mawlamyine, Bagan and Inle Lake), as well as the Popa Mountain Resort and MalikhaLodge in Putao. Myanmar experts we spoke to while researching this guide believe thatthe airline Asian Wings is also under his control.Tay Za is on the sanctions lists of the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and Switzerland.Sanctions are also imposed on his wife, Thidar Zaw, and his son, Pye Phyo Tay. Alongsidehim on the cronies blacklist is Zaw Zaw, managing director of the Max Myanmar(www.max-myanmar.com) group of companies. Among Zaw Zaw’s properties areHotel Max in Chaung Tha Beach and the Royal Kumudra in Nay Pyi Taw, as well as astring of petrol stations (Tay Za also owns petrol stations).In his defence, Tay Za says his enterprises create jobs and encourage young citizenswho have gone abroad to ‘come back home and work’ in Myanmar. And some of hisluxury hotels are remarkable achievements, notably the reconstructed British-eraGovernors’ Palace at Pyin Oo Lwin.supplies are lacking, buying them and handingthem out to each of the students.» Foreign-made gifts (eg pens) are generallycherished items, and more likely to find a placein a bookcase than actually get used. If you wantto give useful items, buy locally. This puts moneyinto the local economy, and locals are more likelyto use the gift!» Give only to those with whom you have madesome sort of personal bond, not to randomsupplicants who happen to ask. Otherwise you’llencourage a culture of begging.» If you do decide to help a begging family, askwhat they need. Often you can accompany themto the market and pick up food (a bag of rice,some vegetables, some fish).» Some items from outside the country are greatlyappreciated, though. It’s a good idea to carry booksand magazines. It’s best, however, to be discreetabout giving them to people you meet (for instance,leaving one behind in a guesthouse), particularly ifthere are any potential political overtones.Back at HomeYour trip to Myanmar doesn’t have to endonce you’re back home.» Alert Lonely Planet and fellow travellers via theThorn Tree discussion board (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) if you’ve found a new or changedgovernment-operated service or have advice onhow to minimise money going to the governmentor any other tips about how to travel in Myanmar.» Consider posting photos and perceptions ofyour trip on a blog – but make sure your wordsdon’t have repercussions for locals you may havemet while travelling.» Write to your local Myanmar embassy andelected politicians to express your views about thehuman-rights situation.» Contact the various prodemocracy activistgroups in your country.» Email the people in Myanmar you became friendlywith – let them know they are not forgotten.