lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

214MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYRIVER BEDSIf you want to sleep on a river boat, there are several upmarket choices.Amara (www.amaragroup.net/de/river/river-de) Two seven-cabin teak boats, traditionallystyled but recently built, make three-night cruises to Bagan (Amara I s/d/full-charter€720/980/4480, Amara II €950/1360/6550) and six-night trips between Mandalay andBhamo (Amara I €1620/2240/11200, Amara II €2200/2980/14,900).GMT (%01 392552; www.myanmartravelagent.com; 1st fl, 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Yangon) Tailormadeprivate live-aboard cruises for couples or small groups in relatively simple convertedlocal boats, with chef and crew. This is great for stopping off at minor riverside villages andfor spotting ultra-rare Irrawaddy dolphins on the Bhamo–Mandalay trip ($1600 per personfor a five-day trip, minimum two passengers). Not usually available Mandalay–Bagan.Pandaw (www.pandaw1947.com) A 60-year-old riverboat with teak and ironwood floorsrefitted into an upmarket 16-berth cruiser.Road to Mandalay (Map p 200 ; www.orient-express.com/web/rtm/road_to_mandalay.jsp)This 43-berth liner is huge by Ayeyarwady standards and includes an onboard swimmingpool and wellness centre. In tourist season it does mostly Bagan–Mandalay, but inmidsummer there are Bhamo trips too. Be aware that its start/end point is at Shwegyet(Golden Fowl) jetty near Sagaing Bridge, so visiting Mandalay requires a one-hour drive,and the ‘cruise’ to Mingun is on a different boat – something you could have easily organisedfor yourself at a fraction of the cost.GREATER MANDALAYoAyarwaddy River View Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 202 ; %72373; ayarwaddyriverviewhotel@gmail.com; Strand Rd, 22/23; d $30-42, ste $81;aiW) Brand new in March 2011, this hotelhas 56 tasteful and restrained rooms.They’re partly panelled in wood and allare sizeable with good, if fashion-neutral,bathrooms. Price (four categories) dependson size and view. And what a view! Frontfacingrooms look across the river towardsdistant Mingun, rear-upper ones overlook thecity, Mandalay Hill and the Shan uplands. Enjoythe lot, 360 degrees, from the rooftop bar.Rupar Mandalar BOUTIQUE RESORT $$$(off Map p 202 ; %61555; www.ruparmandalarresort.com; No A-15 53rd St at 30th St; d/ste $200/600;aiWs) This stunning 16-room complexset in tropical foliage melds timeless neotraditionalfeatures with modern designflair in indulgent teak rooms. Even the gymhas teak walls. The suites are wonderful forfamilies, sleeping six in three fully equippedensuite sub-bedrooms, which share two extensivelounges and a kitchenette. The twoswimming pools are inviting, and guestsqualify for a free 15-minute Thai massagein the spa. The main downside is the oddlocation way out on Mandalay’s eastern outskirtsamid incongruously counterpointednouveau riche houses, stagnant ponds andlight industrial wreckage.Hotel Mandalay HOTEL $$(Map p 202 ; %71582; 78th St, 37/38; d $35-50, ste$60-120; aWs) A seven-storey businessstylehotel whose well-tended rooms featuregoldfish-bowl wash basins and heart-shapedwall lamps. Perks include indoor swimmingpool, gym, buffet breakfast and free in-roomwi-fi. Next door is City Mart supermarket, andthere’s an array of dining possibilities nearby.Golden Mandalay HOTEL $$(Map p200 ; %61488, 09 680 6414; http://homepage.mac.com/hr_weber/golden_mandalay/index.html; 19th St at Ye Zarni Rd; s/d $17/23;a) This homely cluster of bungalow-stylerooms is attractively set amid palms, andthere’s a small dining terrace that’s perchedabove a canal. Rooms are large, and thoughcarpets are rough, there’s plenty of characterin the form of bamboo patchworkdesigns and pictures. Golden Mandalay iseasy to miss. It's unsigned just east of PoliceStation No 1 before 19th St crosses thecanal. Book ahead.Great Wall Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 202 ; %68460; No 901 78th St, 42/TheikPan; d $40-50; a) A six-floor tower whosefair-value rooms have power showers, partlywood-panelled walls and plastic covers stillprotecting the upholstery. Mostly aimed atChinese visitors. The $40 rooms suffer thunderingroad noise.