lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

212MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYWHITE ELEPHANTSLegend has it that before giving birth to her auspicious son, the Buddha’s mother dreamtof a white elephant presenting her with a lotus flower. In certain Buddhist countries thisled to the idea that rare albino elephants were sacred. Their holy status also meant theycould not be put to work.The white elephants were expensive to feed yet without any practical use. Westernobservers in 19th-century southeast Asia saw white elephants as the embodiment offinancial extravagance, and the term came to mean as much in standard English. However,in Burma/Myanmar and Siam/Thailand, the possession of white elephants remainsa potent symbol of kingship: you can view several of the specimens – which are actuallymore pinky brown than white – outside Yangon (see p 39 ) and in Nay Pyi Taw (see p 140 ).Certain Burmese monarchs referred to themselves as ‘golden-footed lord of the whiteelephant’. In 1885 one of King Thibaw’s white elephants died, an omen that superstitiousBurmese interpreted as foretelling the king’s imminent demise at the hands of a Britishinvasion force. And the Brits’ insensitive decision to drag the elephant’s carcass unceremoniouslyout of Mandalay Palace so horrified the pious city folk that it helped spark 10years of guerrilla resistance.NORTHERN MANDALAYoHotel by theRed Canal BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 204 ; %61177; www.hotelredcanal.com;22nd at 63rd St; r $135-186; aiWs) Thisintimate 25-room faux palace has morecharacter than most other Mandalay hotelsput together and comes complete withneo-traditional roof gables and a trickling‘stream’. The interior is dotted with Asianknick-knacks, there’s a floral welcome andcocktails are free to guests from 6pm to7pm. It’s tucked away on a dusty back roadbeside a small canal that does indeed turnred in some seasons. Credit cards are acceptedwith 10% commission, but only on24 hours’ notice.oPeacock Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$(Map p 204 ; %61429, 09 204 2059; www.pyinoolwin.info/peacock.htm; peacocklodge@gmail.com; No 5 60th St, 25/26; s/d $18/24; a) One ofMyanmar’s great homestay-style inns, thePeacock’s charming retired hosts treat manyguests like part of the family, maybe showingyou their fascinating old photos (‘granddad’was a British-era mayor of Mandalay). Thereare four spacious rooms in the main 1960shome overlooking a lotus-filled canal. There’salso a bungalow room off the mango-shadedgarden, where tables are set for a well-preparedbreakfast. In the cool season, threesimpler rooms without air-conditioning(single/double $12/14) are available in anattached bamboo house. It’s peaceful andcomfy without being posh. Great value. Gethere by taking 26th St east, then turningnorth at a sign to ‘Hotel Treasure’.Royal City Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 204 ; %31805, 28299; royalcity@winmaxmail.net.mm; 27th St, 76/77; standard s/d $20/25,superior $25/30; ai) One of the city’s mosttraveller-oriented midrange options, thistall, narrow 19-room tower has windows allround, simple but effective bathrooms and alift that works when electricity allows. Superiorrooms have bathtubs and stronger, quieterair-conditioning. Breakfast can be takenon a flower-decked outdoor/indoor roof garden,which is one of Mandalay’s finest.Sedona Mandalay HOTEL $$$(Map p 204 ; %36488; www.sedonahotels.com.sg;26th at 66th St; superior/deluxe $130/170; as)The large, open-plan lobby is as alluringas the sprawling outdoor pool behind, butrooms can feel a little ordinary for the price.The big plus in some deluxe rooms is theview staring straight down the eastern moattowards Mandalay Hill. You can pre-bookrooms online (sometimes discounted to $70on www.agoda.com), but in situ credit cardsare no longer accepted. The business is aSingaporean joint venture.Mandalay View Inn GUESTHOUSE $$(Map p 204 ; %61119; www.mandalayviewinn.com;66th St, 26/27; r $42-54; a) Converted froma two-floor 1960s villa, this 12-room guesthousefeels cosier and more personable thanmost hotels. Carved wooden panels enliventhe decor, but bathrooms are small and dated,there are a few signs of wear, and rooms