lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

196EASTERN MYANMAR KENGTUNG & BORDER AREASTHE SHANEastern Myanmar is the heartland of the Buddhist Shan tribe, who have strong culturallinks to the Tai peoples of northern Thailand. Many of the towns in eastern and northernMyanmar were once ruled by hereditary Shan chieftains known as sao pha (sky lords).With their strong sense of cultural identity and separatist leanings, the Shan have longbeen perceived as a threat by the central government.Shan talk of succession from the Union of Burma was one of the triggers for the 1962military coup. On the day of the takeover Sao Shwe Thaik, a Shan sao pha who hadbeen Burma’s first president, was arrested and his 17-year-old son shot dead – the onlycasualty of the coup. Sao Shwe Thaik died in prison within the year and an insurrectionstarted that still simmers in parts of the state today.In 2011, the ethnic Shan Dr Sai Mauk Kham, a politician from the military-backedUnion Solidarity and Development Party (USDP), won a vote in parliament to becomeMyanmar’s vice president. For more about the Shan see p 312 .Lod Htin Lu Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(Kyange Rd; mains from K1500) Downhill fromthe mausoleums of the Khün princes, thisis another Chinese banquet restaurant withprivate tables for families screened off bypartitions at the back. The menu featuresnoodle soups, pork with cashews and otherChinese classics.Golden BanyanRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(mains from K2000) Yet another Chinesestylerestaurant near the mausoleums ofthe Khün princes. Food is pretty standardfor this kind of restaurant but the outdoortables beneath a huge banyan tree createatmosphere.Pann Gabar THAI, BURMESE $(Airport Rd; mains from K2000) If you fancya break from Chinese food, this popularroadhouse by the bridge on the Airport Rdhas indoor and outdoor seating and goodThai food – the chef doesn’t scrimp on spices.Seik Tie Kya Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(Airport Rd; mains from K1500) This recommendedChinese restaurant has a cosy diningroom at the back and tables under anawning in the yard. The spicy bean-curdhotpot is big enough for two.7 ShoppingKengtung’s morning market has a couple ofstalls selling hilltribe handicrafts.U Mu Ling TaLACQUERWARE(off Tachileik Rd) This fifth-generation, familyrunshop specialises in lacquerware, fromthe ubiquitous multi-coloured Bagan styleto the striking, black Kengtung style. Piecesare made on-site, so you can get a peek intothe production process if you don’t have thebudget (they’re not cheap). It’s located at thetop of an unmarked driveway on TachileikRd – locals should be able to point you in theright direction.8InformationMoneychangers in the market exchange kyat, USdollars, Thai baht and Chinese yuan.gooGate (per hr K500; h9am-9pm) Convenientlylocated internet access off KyainNyan Rd.Immigration Office (cnr Zay Tan Gyi St & YangKon Rd; h24hr) Down an alley north of thePaleng gate; issues permits for travel aroundKengtung and to Tachileik.Sunfar Travels (%22626; 65 Loi Mwe Rd;h9am-6pm) Sells tickets for all the privateairlines.8Getting There & AwayThe only way to reach Kengtung from insideMyanmar is by air, but road travel is permittedto Tachileik with a permit from Kengtung’s immigrationoffi ce.TRAVELRESTRICTIONSFrom inside Myanmar, Kengtung is accessibleonly by air, and travellers enteringMyanmar overland from Thailandcannot travel to the rest of the country.Travel was previously possible betweenKengtung and Mong La, on theChinese border, but at research timethis was off-limits.