lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

182EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKE5EatingUnfortunately, Nyaugshwe’s culinary scenedoesn’t quite live up to its atmosphere. Mostrestaurants tend to reach far beyond their culinarycapabilities and there are relatively fewplaces to find authentic local food. The goodnews – if you’re a fan of quantity over quality,at least – is that serves tend to be rather largeand there’s an emphasis on Burmese- andShan-style set meals, most starting at K3500.For authentic local eats, check out thefood stalls (Map p 178 ; meals K1000; hbreakfast& lunch) in Mingala Market. Local specialitiesinclude Shan kauq-sweh (noodlesoup), maung jeut (round, flat rice crisps)and tofu thoke (Shan tofu salad), preparedusing yellow split-pea tofu, chilli, corianderand sesame oil.Every evening from Comet Travel & InternetCafe east to Mingala Market unfolds abasic night market (Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd; h5-9pm) with dishes such as Shan noodles andtofu, grilled dishes, hot pot, roti and murtabak(stuffed pancake).oLin Htett MyanmarTraditional Food BURMESE $$(Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd; meals from K4000; hlunch& dinner) Hands-down our favourite place toeat in Nyaungshwe, Lin Htett is as friendlyas it is delicious. If you haven’t yet encounteredauthentic Myanmar dining, here’s thedrill: choose a curry or two (refer to the picturesor, better yet, have a look behind thecounter) and perhaps a salad (the pennywortsalad, made from a fresh herb, is delicious).You’ll find the accompaniments (rice,a sour soup, a vegetable soup, vegies, a fishydip and three balachaung, chilli-based dips)will be supplied as a matter of course.Viewpoint Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, SHAN $$$(Map p 178 ; www.viewpoint.leplanteur.net; TaikNan Bridge; mains from K2000, set meals K8000-14,000; hlunch & dinner) Taking obscure localcuisines upscale is usually dangerous culinaryterritory, but the self-professed ‘Shannouvelle cuisine’ at this, Nyaungshwe’s mostambitious restaurant, is worth investigating.Although few of the menu items wouldever have existed on a typical Shan family’sdinner menu, the set meals and tastyShan tapas are satisfying, regardless of theirauthenticity.Lotus Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Map p 178 ; Museum Rd (Haw St); mains from K1000;hall day) With only five tables, this familyrunplace is as small as its menu is short. Ifeven this is too much choice for you, go forthe family-style dinner, which includes soup,salad, curry and a generous fruit plate foronly K3500. Your host, Pyone Cho, is also anexcellent trekking guide (see p 187 ).Golden Kite Restaurant ITALIAN $$(Map p 178 ; cnr Myawady Rd & Yone Gyi Rd; pizzasfrom K5000, pasta from K3500; hlunch & dinner)If you must seek Italian food in Nyaungshwe,you may as well do it here. This longstandingplace claims to have got its recipesvia an Italian lady from Bologna (you’ll mostlikely get the spiel) – she’s the source ofthe fresh basil. It makes its own pasta andserves decent pizzas.Thu Kha Coffee TEAHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; cnr Main Rd & Yone Gyi Rd; snacks fromK200; h5am-4pm) Ostensibly Nyaungshwe’sonly Muslim teashop, this tidy place servesgood tea and, in the mornings, tasty pakoda,deep-fried vegetable dumplings. Comelater in the afternoon for sweets such as roti,a type of sweet pancake.Inle Pancake Kingdom PANCAKES $(Map p 178 ; off Phaung Daw Seiq Rd; mains fromK800; hall day) Choose from a huge range offilled pancakes and toasted sandwiches atthis cute little cabin on a narrow alley northof the sports field. Follow the signs fromPhaung Daw Seiq Rd.Hu Pin Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(Map p 178 ; dishes from K1500) Close to the HuPin Hotel and run by the same team, thisbright canteen has an illustrated menu oftasty Chinese soups and fried favouritessuch as sweet and sour pork. It gets verybusy with tour groups at lunch time – comeearly or late for lunch or face a long wait.Green Chili Restaurant THAI, BURMESE $$(Map p 178 ; Hospital Rd; mains from K2000, setmeals K5000; hlunch & dinner) This new restaurantboasts one of the poshest diningrooms in town and, on the surface at least,the largely Thai-influenced menu here isalso one of the more diverse and interesting.Unfortunately the flavours tend towards thetimid tourist.The majority of places in Nyaungshwe havea Burmese/Shan/Chinese/Thai/Europeanmenu – you’ll recognise them from the billboardsout the front, which tout everythingfrom tofu to tagliatelle. If you’re not put off