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ooms and lots of potted greenery. More expensiverooms have tubs and minibars andsome have hill views.Eastern Paradise Motel HOTEL $(%50315; 5 Thirimingalar St; r $7-15) Like muchof the accommodation in Kalaw, this placecalls itself a motel, but there’s no need tobe suspicious of the unintentionally selfdeprecatingmoniker; large homey roomsand gracious service make this one of thebest deals in town.Honey Pine Hotel HOTEL $(%50728; 44 Zatila St; s/d/tr $10/20/30) Of thehandful of new hotels going up in Kalaw,this was the only one finished at researchtime. The budget-priced rooms here includemidrange amenities such as TV and fridge,although the single rooms lack windows andfeel a bit tight.Golden Lily Guest House HOTEL $(%50108; goldenlily@mandalay.net.mm; 5/88 NatsinRd; r $3-10; i) A chalet mood pervades atthis large, budget complex. The more expensiverooms share a wide balcony that looksover the town. They’re also substantially nicerthan the cheaper rooms, the shared bathroomsof which could really use some work.Trekking can be arranged here, although it’san annoying hard-sell. Slow internet accessis available for K1000 for 30 minutes.Pine View Inn HOTEL $(%50185; University Rd; s/d $10/15) If you’drather stay in the leafy part of town, this quiethotel offers plain but tidy rooms in a newbungalow block or an older wooden house.It’s a ten-minute walk from the city centre.Follow Min St south or hop on a motorcycletaxi at the market (K500).Golden Kalaw Inn HOTEL $(%50311; 5/92 Natsin Rd; s/d $5/8, with sharedbathroom $3/6) The rooms here are about asbasic as they come, but are clean. The balconyand front yard catch the afternoon sunshine.New Shine Hotel HOTEL $(%50028; newshine@myanmar.com.mm; 21 UnionHwy; s/d $10/20) Targeting travellers on organisedtours, the New Shine is cosier in than out.Parami Motel HOTEL $(%50027; Kone Thae St; s/d $8/15, with sharedbathroom $5/10) Set in two pale-blue blocksbehind the Winner Hotel, the Parami hasfriendly owners and modest but inexpensiverooms.Winner Hotel Kalaw HOTEL $(%50025; Union Hwy; s/d $15/18, with shared bathroom$6/12) A large, modern Chinese-stylehotel on the main road, the Winner holdsfew surprises, but rooms are large, unclutteredand clean.5Eating & DrinkingKalaw has some decent places to chowdown, many serving food with a distinctiveIndian or Nepali flavour.Thu Maung Restaurant BURMESE $$(Union Hwy; meals from K2500; hlunch & dinner)Probably the best Burmese restaurant intown, Thu Maung serves tasty chicken, porkand fish curries with all the usual Myanmarsalads, pickles and trimmings. There’s noEnglish-language sign here, but it’s the restaurantdirectly adjacent to the steps leadingto Thein Taung Paya.Pyae Pyae Shan Noodle SHAN $(Union Hwy; noodles from K500; hall day) Thiscosy, friendly shop sells delicious bowls ofthe eponymous noodle, as well as a shortmenu of rice-based dishes.Sam’s FamilyRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Aung Chan Tha St; mains from K1000; hall day)Run by the same family that operates Sam’sTrekking Guide, this cosy little place servesIndian, Myanmar and Chinese standardsand old-fashioned backpacker breakfasts.ThirigayhaRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $$(Seven Sisters; Union Hwy; meals from K5000;hlunch & dinner) If you want a romantic dinner,there’s really only one choice in town.The menu ranges from Shan traditionalmeals to beef stroganoff, noodle soups andIndian curries and there’s often a guitaristserenading diners.Everest Nepali Food Centre NEPALI $(Aung Chan Thar St; set meals from K2000; hlunch& dinner) Relive memories of trekking in Nepalwith a plate of dhal baht (rice servedwith lentils and other side dishes) at thisconvivial eatery run by a Nepali family whooriginally came to Myanmar from Pokhara.FMD Indian Food MUSLIM, INDIAN $(Union Hwy; mains from K1500; hlunch & dinner)FMD specialises in rich, meaty MusliminfluencedIndian dishes. Stop in on Sundaywhen they do biryani.173THAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE EATING KALAW& DRINKING