lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Major temples that remain active places of worship such as Ananda Pahto and ShwezigonPaya are always open during the day. At many others to get inside you first have tofind the ‘keyholder’ whose job it is to act as the caretaker of the site. Often they (or theirkids) will find you first and open the gate for you. A bit of ‘tea money’ (say K500) is appreciated.We’re told that the keyholders are assigned by the archaeology department.The other constant of Bagan temples – even relatively remote ones – are souvenir hawkers,often selling (and sometimes creating) colourful sand paintings. Some of these replicateparts of the murals from inside the temples and are quite skilful with prices starting atas little as K500 for the smaller canvases, but rising sharply for more detailed and largerworks; other images are pretty generic and found across all temple sites. Although somehawkers can be persistent, if you’re not interested in buying, most will leave you alone.We’re told that official souvenir hawkers at the temples pay K45,000 a year for a licence,but it’s likely that there are many more unofficial vendors given the potential for relativelyeasy money. ‘Even if they only sell a few trinkets a week, it’s an easy job,’ said one frequentvisitor to Bagan, ‘as the alternative is a farm job which pays far less a day.’ A guide alsobemoaned that children in Bagan are starting to quit school in order to work as hawkers.Wetkyi-In-GubyaukgyiBUDDHIST TEMPLE0k'äkI"a='"gUe¨p;k'äkI"Just west of Nyaung U and about 100yd eastof Gubyauknge, this detailed off-the-maincircuit,13th-century temple has an Indianstylespire, like the Mahabodhi Paya in OldBagan. It's interesting for fine frescoes ofscenes from the Jataka but, unfortunately,in 1899 a German collector surreptitiouslyremoved many of the panels on which thefrescoes were painted. Those that remainin the entry are in great shape. Steps insidelead to four buddha images and you can seeHindu figures engraved on the spire.Central PlainExtending from the edge of Old Bagan,this vast and lovely plain (roughly south ofAnawrahta Rd between New Bagan and NyaungU) is home to a few must-sees everyonegets to (Shwesandaw Paya and DhammayangyiPahto) and many pockets of templesthat few ever see. It’s great turf to follow yourown whims, as you’ll find goatherds and a bitof village life out here, but there is nothingin the way of restaurants or lunch options.Some temples are locked but a ‘keyholder’should be in the area.This list of well-worthy sites runs west toeast (towards the clearly visible Bagan Towerconstruction site, near Nyaung U).Shwesandaw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEeráz®et;'.ur;"Bagan’s most famous sunset-viewing spot,the Shwesandaw is a graceful white pyramidstylepagoda with steps leading past five terracesto the circular stupa top, with good360-degree views. It’s located roughly midwaybetween Thatbyinnyu and Dhammayangyi.Its top terrace is roomy – just as well,considering the numbers of camera-totingtravellers coming by taxi or bus before sunset.If you go during the day, you’ll likely be alone.Shwesandaw means ‘golden holy hair’:legend has it that the stupa enshrines a Buddhahair relic presented to King Anawrahtaby the King of Ussa Bago (Pegu) in thanksfor his assistance in repelling an invasion bythe Khmers. The terraces once bore terracottaplaques showing scenes from the Jatakabut traces of these, and of other sculptures,were covered by rather heavy-handed renovations.The now-gilded zedi (stupa) bellrises from two octagonal bases, which topthe five square terraces. This was the firstBagan monument to feature stairways leadingfrom the square terraces to the roundbase of the stupa.The hti, which was toppled by the 1975earthquake, can still be seen lying on thesouth side of the paya compound. A new onewas fitted soon after the quake.About 165yd north stands LawkahteikpanPahto – a small but interesting middleperiodgu containing excellent frescoes andinscriptions in both Burmese and Mon.Dhammayangyi PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLE/mμr®äkI"puqiu"Visible from all parts of Bagan, this massive,walled, 12th-century temple (about 550ydeast of Shwesandaw) is infamous for itsTHE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN CENTRAL PLAIN