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158TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESoffering dhamma (Buddhist teachings) as acure for suffering. Both arms hang at the image’ssides with hands outstretched, a mudra(hand position) unknown to traditional Buddhistsculpture outside this temple.The west-facing buddha features the abhayamudra (the hands outstretched, in thegesture of no fear). At its feet sit two lifesizedlacquer statues, said to represent KingKyanzittha and Shin Arahan, the Mon monkwho initiated Anawrahta into TheravadaBuddhism. Inside the western portico aretwo symbols on pedestals of the Buddha’sfootprints.Don’t leave without taking a brief walkaround the outside of the temple, where youcan see many glazed tiles and lovely viewsof the spires and terraced roofs (often awayfrom vendor hassle too).Ananda Ok KyaungBUDDHIST CHAPELa;nNÌ;aut'ekY;='"Just west of Ananda’s northern entry, thissmall vihara (sanctuary or chapel) featuressome detailed 18th-century murals burstingwith bright red and green, showing detailsof everyday life from the Bagan period. Inthe southeast corner, you can see Portuguesefigures engaged in trade. Built in 1137,the temple’s name means ‘Ananda BrickMonastery’.Upali TheinORDINATION HALLwp:lisim'Just north of the Bagan-Nyaung U Rd, almostmidway to Nyaung U, this squat mid-13th-century ordination hall houses somebrightly painted frescoes depicting bigscenes on the walls and ceilings from thelate 17th or early 18th century. Sadly manypieces crumbled in the 1975 earthquake. Thebuilding, named for a well-known monkfrom the 13th century, is often locked to protectthe art, but you can see in (a bit) fromthe three gated doorways if the ‘keyholder’isn’t around. The roof battlements imitateMyanmar wooden architecture, and a smallcentre spire rises from the rooftop.Htilominlo PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEqI"lium='"liupuqiu"Across the road from Upali Thein, this150ft-high temple (built in 1218) marks thespot where King Nantaungmya was chosen(by a leaning umbrella – that timeless decider),among five brothers, to be the crownprince. It’s more impressive from the outside,with its terraced design, which is similarto Sulamani Pahto. Have a walk aroundthe 140-sq-ft base to take in the fragmentsof the original fine plaster carvings, glazedsandstone decorations and nicely carved reliefson the doorways. Inside are four buddhason the lower and upper floors, thoughthe stairways are closed. Traces of old muralsare also still visible. Unfortunately it’sVendor Central.BulediBUDDHIST TEMPLEbU"ly'sI"Great for its views, this steep-stepped,pyramid-style stupa looks ho-hum fromafar, but the narrow terrace has becomesomething of an alternative sunset spot. It’sabout 660yd south of the Htilominlo, acrossAnawrahta Rd. It’s also known as ‘Temple394’ (not correctly labelled on some maps).If persistent vendors are getting to you,try the miniature version, Temple 405, withseveral glazed tiles visible, just east of Buledi.GubyaukngeBUDDHIST TEMPLEgUe¨p;k'=y'Off Anawrahta Rd, almost a mile east of Htilominlo,this early-Bagan-period temple hassome excellent stucco carvings on the outsidewalls (particularly on the north side)and some original paintings visible inside.TEMPLE FESTIVALSThe following are Bagan’s major temple festivals or paya pwe, listed in order of theircelebration through the year. At them all expect religious chanting around the clock,religious paraphernalia stalls and music and drama performances.» Manuha Paya Held on the full moon of Tabaung (February/March).» Gawdawpalin Pahto Celebrated on the full moon of Thadingyut (September/October).» Shwezigon Paya Celebrated on the full moon of Tazaungmon (October/November).» Ananda Pahto This roughly two-week event culminating on the full moon of Pyatho(December/January) is Bagan’s biggest festival, when hundreds of monks come to collectalms from thousands of merit-seeking locals.