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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdTemples of BaganHistory . . . . . . . . . . . . .150The Temples . . . . . . . . 153Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . .154North Plain . . . . . . . . .156Central Plain . . . . . . . .159Myinkaba Area . . . . . . 161New Bagan Area . . . . .163South Plain . . . . . . . . .163Nyaung U Area . . . . . .164Best TempleMurals» Upali Thein (p 158 )» Nandamannya Pahto(p 164 )» Payathonzu (p 164 )» Ananda Ok Kyaung (p 158 )» Abeyadana Pahto (p 162 )Best Sunset Spots» Shwesandaw Paya (p 159 )» Buledi (p 158 )» Pyathada Paya (p 160 )» Thabeik Hmauk (p 160 )» Tan Kyi Paya (p 155 )Why Go?Marco Polo, who may or may not have visited on his travels,described Bagan as ‘one of the finest sights in the world’.Despite centuries of neglect, looting, erosion, regular earthquakes(including a massive one in 1975), not to mentionquestionable restoration, this temple-studded plain remainsa remarkably impressive and unforgettable vision.In a 230-year building frenzy up until 1287 and the Mongolinvasions, Bagan’s kings commissioned over 4000 Buddhisttemples. These brick and stucco religious structuresare all that remain of their grand city, with the <strong>11</strong>th to 13thcentury wooden buildings having long gone.Many restoration projects have resulted in a compromisedarchaeological site that can barely be described as inruins. Often the restorations bear little relation to the buildingstyles and techniques used at the time of original construction.Still, Bagan remains a wonder. Working templeslike Ananda Pahto, give a sense of what the place was like atits zenith, while others conceal colourful murals and hiddenstairways that lead to exterior platforms and jaw-droppingviews across the plain.When to GoBang in the midst of the ‘dry zone’, Bagan is hot. Avoidsizzling March to May and visit in ‘cooler’ November toFebruary, the peak travel season. The rainy season (Juneto October) sees fewer visitors but is still pretty steamy. Ifyou're interested in local religious rites, music and dance,time your visit to coincide with the festival lasting severalweeks at Ananda Pahto in January.Plan your daily temple viewing around a dawn/dusk itinerary,building in a leisurely lunch/siesta/poolside loungingsession from around 12.30pm to 4pm. Temperatures at duskand dawn will be more pleasant and the light is better forphotographs.

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