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VISITING THE ELEPHANT CAMPS137Myanmar has the largest population of domesticated elephants in the world and is theonly country where they are still used on a large scale in industry – in particular for loggingcarried out under the auspices of the state-owned Myanmar Timer Enterprise (MTE). In amountainous area of Karen villages and teakwood plantations, 35 miles northwest of Taungoo,it’s possible to visit logging camps and see up close working elephants and their oozies(the Myanmar word for mahouts) continuing a pattern of life unchanged for centuries.With at least three days’ notice (two weeks is better), trips of a day or longer can bearranged to this otherwise restricted area through Dr Chan Aye (drchanaye@gmail.com)of the Myanmar Beauty Guest House.Day trips, starting at 6am and returning to Taungoo around 5pm, cost $90 per personfor two people, with prices dropping the larger the group. Included in the rates are thenecessary permits, return transport, a walk into the forest, an elephant ride, a lunch ofrice and curry, and plenty of bottled water. Bamboo rafting and motorbiking in the junglecan be added for additional fees.Overnight trips with a stay in either Shwe Daung or Ngwe Daug, both Karen villages,cost $220 per person; it’s also possible to do this trip and continue onward to Pyay thenext day for $300. The doctor provides free medical service to villagers in the area.queen), and a round building housing a recliningBuddha surrounded by devas (celestialbeings) and monastic disciples.Nearby, on the western side of the stupa,there’s a 12ft bronze, Mandalay-style sittingBuddha, given to the paya in 1912 by a retiredcivil servant who donated his bodyweight in bronze and silver for the casting ofthe image. He died three years after the castingat age 72; his ashes are interred behindthe image.On the east side, there’s a shrine to Thurathati– a goddess borrowed by Buddhistsfrom Hindus – atop a mythical hintha bird.Fine-arts students come to pray to her beforeexams.Myasigon PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE¨mc–'"x®u.ur;"About 250m south of Shwesandaw, off PagodaSt, this lovely modern pagoda featuresa gold zedi and many glass mosaics. On thenorth side, an open building has a fadedmural of Taungoo kings. A nearby squatwhite building is actually a museum (tohave it opened, ask in the pagoda; it usually Kawmudaw Payacosts K1000). The museum has bronze imagesof Erawan (the three-headed elephantwho serves as Indra’s mount) and assortedBuddha images, but is more interestingfor its random secular collection of Britishcolonial-era memorabilia, including an ancientKodak camera, 80-year-old plates anda cream soda bottle.Kandawgyi LakeLAKE/PARKkn'etC'äkI"This pretty ornamental lake dates from thedays when Taungoo (then known as Katumadi)was capital and Bayin Naung ruled.Strolling or cycling around its perimeter,lined with shady trees, is a pleasant way topass an hour or so.While nobody swims in the lake itself, onits eastern (town) side, you’ll find a smallswimming pool (for 2hr K500; h7am-6pm) atthe Evergreen Cafe, which also has friendlyowners.On the lake’s western flank, sandwichedbetween the old palace walls and moat, isthe Kyet Minn Nyi Naung AmusementPark, built by the firm responsible for theneighbouring Royal Katumadi Hotel. Apartfrom various places to eat and drink here,you can play snooker (K1000 per hour) andtennis (K3000 per hour) or hire the karaokeroom (K5000 per hour). There’s a freekids’ playground, but we were told the pedalboats on the lake were ‘not for foreigners’.BUDDHIST TEMPLEekC='"múuetC'.ur;"One of Taungoo’s oldest religious sites, thiscountryside temple is around 1 mile westof the lake through the new Sin Gate Arch.In the temple’s southwest corner, look fora small pillar in a sandbox (with barefootprints) – locals come here and walk aroundit to conquer personal problems.YANGON–MANDALAY BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR HIGHWAY SIGHTS TAUNGOO& & ACTIVITIES

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