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shiny wood floors, small rugs and views ofbougainvillea draping over the wall outside.Shwe in the reception, which is also decoratedwith Bambi and Thumper print curtains.125Arthawka Hotel HOTEL $(%65321, in Yangon 01-502 479; www.visitmyanmar.net/hotels; 160 Cherry Rd; s $25-30, d $30-35) Bigglazed clay pots and wicker chairs dot thespacious lobby of this friendly 60-room hotel.It offers spacious rooms sporting woodfloors and white tiled bathrooms. In thecentre of the complex is a saltwater pool,shaded by palms.Lawkanat Hotel HOTEL $$(%65046; s/d $25/30; a) This 20-room complex,just off the main road, has black-tileddecks leading to simple green-carpetedrooms with giant front windows, which lookout over the peaceful gardens. It works.NK Betel Nut Hotel HOTEL $$(%65054, 09-204 2052; Khayea Pin St; s/d $20/25;a) A bit overpriced for what you get, thisfunny group of cabins – a few at the frontwith log facades – offers OK rooms with redcarpet, a little TV and an old tiled bathroom.You can find the same for less in NyuangU, but it’s clean and the management arewelcoming.Bagan Central Hotel HOTEL $(%65057, 65265; Main Rd; s/d from $15/20; a)These good-value bamboo-style rooms withpebbled facades are compact and clean andset around a tree-shaded courtyard wherebreakfast is served. For rooms with tubs add$5 to the rates.Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House HOTEL $(%65092; Main Rd; s/d $15/20; a) This simple,shady complex has straightforward roomswith scruffy carpets laid atop concrete floors,old air-con unit, tiny TV, and attached bathroom.There is a portrait of General ThanNew Bagan (Bagan Myothit)5EatingNew Bagan’s Main Rd is lined with severalChinese and Burmese restaurants. Manyforeigners grab a meal on the riverside, justwest – there are several and you can eitherbe lost amid the tour groups or have theplace to yourself.Green Elephant BAMAR, ASIAN $$(mains K7000-9000; h11am-4pm & 6-10pm) Thegood-value and tasty Myanmar set meal(K8000) comes with a couple of curries,vegetable tempura, soup, dessert and coffee.There are small and large portions of otherdishes (including local curries). But it’s thesetting that’s the deal, with shaded tables ona lawn overlooking the Ayeyarwady River.Silver House BAMAR, ASIAN $$(Main Rd; mains K5000; h7am-10pm) A welcomingfamily-run restaurant that offers large,tasty portions of dishes such as traditionalMyanmar chicken curry and tomato salad.The King Si Thu BAMAR, ASIAN $$(%65117; mains K4500; h8am-10pm) Anotherriverside setting, another Myanmar restaurantmainly serving Chinese and Thai dishessuch as sweet-and-sour pork, or fish with ginger.Order one hour ahead for Burmese food.There’s a half-hour puppet show at 7.30pm.7 ShoppingNew Bagan has several good options for lacquerware– at all you can watch artisans atwork.oBlack Elephant Studio LACQUERWARE(www.lacquerinstitute.org; 1-25 Swel Daw St;h8am-5pm) Set up by British-Ukrainianÿ Sleepingþ Shopping1 Bagan Central Hotel.............................. C3 10 Bagan House ..........................................C22 Kumudara Hotel .....................................C1 11 Black Elephant Studio ...........................D33 Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House...................... B2 12 Tun Handicrafts/Moe Moe's.................B34 NK Betel Nut Hotel ................................ C25 Thazin Garden Hotel ............................. D3 ï Information6 Thiri Marlar Hotel....................................C1 13 Exotissimo ..............................................C314 Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT) ........... B1ú Eating7 Green Elephant...................................... A2 ï Transport8 Silver House........................................... C2 U Zaw Weik ...................................... (see 1)9 The King Si Thu...................................... A3BAGAN & EATINGCENTRAL MYANMAR EATING NEW BAGAN (BAGAN MYOTHIT)