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CARRIAGES & ELEPHANTS123Apart from the floating over Bagan by balloon, there are a couple more ways to see thetemples in grand style. Indulge your inner princess by hiring the Cinderella-style VictoriaHorsecart (%60782, 09 650 1444; half/full day $35/55), a 120-year-old wooden horsedrawncarriage made in England that seats up to four passengers. It’s owned by the sameBurmese-French couple who run the Black Bamboo and Scoopys.A Yangon-based Burmese-Italian couple are the driving force behind ElephantCoach (%in Yangon 01-661 731, 09 503 7366; www.asiaelephantcoach.com), which has one ofits three lovingly restored Chevrolet buses based in Bagan; the other two are in Yangon.An Orient Express compared to the typical clapped-out coach trundling Myanmar’sroads, these beauties, decorated with teak and ironwood, seat six in high colonial comfort.Hiring one for six/12 hours of sightseeing, including driver and hostess serving freshhand towels and soft drinks, costs US$250/380.7 ShoppingShwe War Thein HandicraftsShopHANDICRAFTS(%67032; shi@mptmail.net.mm; h6am-10pm peakseason) Just east of Tharabar Gate (and wellsigned off the Bagan–Nyaung U Rd) is thispopular treasure trove of Myanmar trinkets.The collection includes antique and newpuppets (starting from $5), woodcarvings,chess sets, lacquerware and bronze pieces.Ask to see the antique section at the rear.Lacquerware selections are wider in Myinkabaand New Bagan.8Getting There & AwayDepending on water levels, boats from Mandalayarrive in Old Bagan near the Aye Yar Hotel. Seep 120 for more on boats leaving Nyaung U, themajor gateway for buses, trains and planes outof Bagan.Myinkaba¨m='kp:%061Like lacquerware? Bagan’s most famous shoppingzone is this otherwise sleepy village,about half a mile south of Old Bagan, whichhas been home to family-run lacquerwareworkshops for generations. At least a dozenworkshops and storefronts are located aroundthe smattering of choice pahto (temples) andstupas (p 161 ) from the early Bagan period.And King Manuha, respectfully called the‘Captive King’, built the poetic Manuha Payawhile held here in the 11th century.7 ShoppingBefore pulling out your wallet, it’s wise tostop at a handful of places to compare varyingstyles (and prices). Workshops (like theones that follow) will show you the manystages of lacquerware-making and howlacquer is applied in layers, dried and engraved.There’s refreshingly little pressureto buy at any of the workshops. But qualityvaries; often the best stuff is kept in airconditionedrooms at the back. Most workshopsand stores keep long hours (roughly7am to 9pm during peak season).Generally, you can bargain about 10% offthe quoted prices – and no more. We pricedhigher-quality 14-layer (or higher) vasesfor $35, full tea sets with tray for $110, teacups or rice bowls for $15 to $25 and jewelleryboxes from $12. Seven-layer pieces arecheaper.A few places to check out:Art Gallery of BaganLACQUERWAREEnglish-speaking Maung Aung Myin hastwo rooms and a busy workshop on theroad 200yd north of Mahamuni. Apartfrom the full range of lacquerware – includingsome beautiful and pricey cabinetsand casks – it also has antique and newpuppets ($20 to $150).Family LacquerwareWork ShopLACQUERWARESmaller workshop off the east side of theroad, with a few more modern styles withless layers of lacquer and untraditionalcolours such as blue and yellow.Golden CuckooLACQUERWAREJust behind the Manuha Paya, this familyrunworkshop spans four generations andfocuses on ‘traditional’ designs, which areapplied to some unusual objects, includinga motorbike helmet ($250) and a guitar($500).BAGAN & SHOPPINGCENTRAL MYANMAR SHOPPINGMYINKABA