lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHotel @ TharabarGate HOTEL $$$(%60037, 60042, in Yangon 01-211 888; www.tharabargate.com; r $160-200, ste $300; ai Ws)If you can live without river views, this 86-room hotel is a fine option (particularlywhen you beat those rack rates by bookingon the internet or via agents, some of whomcan offer good deals). Lush gardens of tropicalplants and bougainvillea line walkwaysto the roomy wood-floor bungalows withdecks. The two-room suites at the far endgo traditional, with gold-coloured ogres andnaga spirits on the walls.Aye Yar River View Hotel HOTEL $$$(%60352, 60313, in Yangon 01-537 961; www.baganayeyarhotel.com; r $75-95; aiWs) Followinga major make-over, this former governmenthotel (we’re told it’s owned by a ‘privatebusiness person’ in Yangon) is very appealing.The most expensive rooms are set inspacious bungalows with river views, whilethose closer to the pool are pretty nice, too.Bagan Thiripyitsaya SanctuaryResort RESORT $$$(%60048, 60049; www.thiripyitsaya-resort.com;r $130-175, ste $300; ais) It’s hard not towish for more midday shade in this niceJapanese joint-venture hotel on the river,about 500m south of the Old Bagan walls.There’s a pool and rooms are away (mostly)from direct river views in ageing four-roombungalow-style duplexes with covered decks.The restaurant is good with panoramic riverviews and there’s a wide range of activitiesoffered (see p 114 ).Bagan Thande Hotel HOTEL $$(%60025, 60031; www.hotelbaganthande.com; s$28-66, d $33-75, ste $200; ais) Opened forKing Edward VIII in 1922, this riverside hotelcarries a bit of dated formality. The simple,but fine, midpriced ‘superior’ bungalowshave decks looking over the pool and nearbyGadawpawlin Pahto. Best for views, though,are the riverfront deluxe rooms at the river’sedge. Breakfast is served under tree shadewith river views too.Bagan Hotel HOTEL $$$(%60032; www.kmahotels.com; r from $60;aiWs) More modern and stylish thanThande, this 107-room hotel has bungalowswith teak floors in a nice setting. The owneris friendly with the government (see p 21 ).5EatingOld Bagan’s restaurants (between the AnandaPahto and Tharabar Gate) are a logicalcentral point for lunch. The nearby hotelrestaurants add a little style (and kyat) toyour meal.oBe Kind to Animalsthe Moon VEGETARIAN, BAMAR $$(off Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; dishes K1500-3000;h7am-10pm; v) The original among the coupleof vegetarian restaurants clustered nearTharabar Gate, this place offers a friendlywelcome and delicious food includingpumpkin and ginger soup, aubergine curryand a lime and ginger tea that the ownersclaim is good for stomach upsets.Sarahba III/Gyi Gyi’s VEGETARIAN, BAMAR $(off Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; dishes from K300; h6am-6pm) Join the crowds under a shady treenear the Tharabar Gate squatting on lowchairs at green-painted tables and tuckinginto some of Bagan’s best tucker, all freshlyprepared and supremely tasty. There’s nosign – the name is what local’s jokingly callthe place.Scoopy’s ICE CREAM $(off Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; dishes from K300; h11am-6pm) Run by the French-Burmese owners ofthe Black Bamboo in Nyaung U, this relaxedcafé and ice-cream parlour is something ofa godsend. Toasted sandwiches, homemademuffins and treats such as Western chocolatebars are available – all great for picnicsnacks while touring the temples.Sarabha II CHINESE, INTERNATIONAL $$(dishes K1200-8000; h11am-9pm) Of the twoSarabhas back to back by the Tharabar Gate,we like the one behind best, away from theroad. It’s a great midday resting point forshade and its range of food (Chinese, Thai,Burmese, pizza). The food’s good, and cheaperthan hotel restaurants, but best are thecold towels handed out to wipe the dust offyour face.Golden Myanmar BAMAR $$(Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; buffet K3000; h10am-10pm)Keep-it-real seekers (and lots of horse-cartdrivers) prefer this excellent roadside eaterywith shaded seats on a brick floor. The‘buffet’ (your pick of chicken, pork, fish ormutton curry) comes with the usual tablefulof condiments. There’s another location nearAnanda Pahto.