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110SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR TANINTHARYI (TENASSERIM) REGIONTHAILAND BORDER CROSSING: KAWTHOUNGKawthoung (also known as Victoria Point), at the far southern end of Tanintharyi (Tenasserim)Region, is a legal crossing point for foreign tourists. Yet, as with all of Myanmar’sland crossings (or, in this case, water crossings), visits are restricted to a limited numberof days within a limited area, you have to leave your passport at the border, and you’regenerally expected to return the same way you came in. We’ve received a couple reportsof travellers having entered Myanmar via Yangon and, with advance permission fromMTT, exited via Kawthoung, but the official line is that you can cross the border here andproceed onward only if you’ve already arranged a visit via Mergui Princess or AndamanClub. For details on doing this, see below.From Thailand, several travel agencies in Ranong offer ‘visa trips’ for about 400B, butthe trip is easy enough to do unassisted. Boats to Kawthoung leave the Saphan Pla pier,located about 6 miles from Ranong, regularly from 8am till 4pm (round-trip 200B, 40minutes). After getting your passport stamped by Thai immigration, board one of theboats near the immigration office and you’ll be taken to the Myanmar immigration office,where you must surrender your passport and pay a fee of $10 or 500B for a permit thatallows you to stay in Kawthoung for up to 14 days. If you decide to stay, sights includethe town’s busy waterfront (Strand Rd) and a hilltop temple, Pyi Taw Aye Paya. Yourbest bet for accommodation is the centrally located but overpriced Honey Bear Hotel(%592 1352; Strand Rd; s/d $36/48; a).It’s worth noting that, if you’re crossing at Ranong to get a fresh Thai tourist visa,they’re now limited to only 15 days.fishers occasionally paddle through the cavefor 10 minutes to yet another lake. You maybe able to persuade one to take you along.Saddar Cave can be traversed only duringthe dry season (about November to April)and is 17 miles from Hpa-an along the roadto Eindu. To get there, take a pick-up to Eindu(K700). From the village take a motorbike taxi(K3000) for the remaining 2 miles to the cave.TANINTHARYI(TENASSERIM) REGIONThe deep south of Myanmar, known as TanintharyiRegion (tns¿;rItiu='"), appears to be abeach bum’s dream. The coastline consists ofa seemingly untouched archipelago of bridalwhitebeaches, and is said to be home to over4000 islands, though British surveyors recognisedonly 804. Most are uninhabited, thougha few are home to the Moken, or ‘sea gypsies’,a nomadic seafaring people (p 312 ).Unfortunately, for all intents and purposes,visiting these beaches and islandsremains largely a dream.It's possible for independent foreigntravellers to cross by boat from Thailandto Kawthoung (see boxed text), or to takea domestic flight (on Tay Za’s Air Bagan orgovernment-owned Myanma Airways) tothe southern towns of Dawei (Tavoy), Myeik(Mergui) and Kawthoung, but once you hitthe ground you’re restricted to the city limits,defeating the purpose of visiting this beachyregion. Based on our talks with MyanmarTravels & Tours and several knowledgeabletour operators, the only generally approvedway to explore the beaches and islands ofthis region is through pre-arranged packagetours with companies that have stronggovernment ties. Alternatives include bookinga seat with Mergui Princess (www.merguiprincess.com), an outfit that runs six-daycruises from Kawthoung to Mergui, or a stayat Andaman Club (www.andamanclub.com), aluxury resort on Thahtay Kyun Island. Withadvance notice of at least four weeks, theseentities will file the required paperwork foryou, which, we’re told, can get you permissionto cross the border at Kawthoung andreceive a 28-day visa that allows you to exitthe country via Yangon.If you’re determined to see the region,but don’t want to contribute money to thoseclosely linked to the military, the only realalternative is to join a live-aboard divingtour departing from southern Thailand.Recommended outfits with experience inthe Mergui Archipelago include ColonaLiveaboards (www.diving-thailand-phuket.com),Moby Dick Adventures (www.moby-dick-adventures.com) and Sea Fun Divers (www.seafundivers.com), all operating out of Phuket.