lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

108SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR KAYIN STATEHPAN PU MOUNTAINAcross the Thanlwin River from Hpa-an,Hpan Pu Mountain is a craggy, pagodatoppedpeak that can be scaled in onesweaty morning. Getting there involveshopping on one of the river crossingboats from the informal jetty (K500,every 30 minutes from 7am to 5pm) nearShweyinhmyaw Pagoda. Upon reachingthe other side, you’ll walk througha quiet village then begin the steep butrelatively short ascent to the top. Theviews of the river, the surrounding ricefields and limestone cliffs (including MtZwegabin) are astounding.For information on boats from Mawlamyine,see p 101 .Bus & Pick-Up TruckFor information on getting to Hpa-an by bus fromYangon, see p 70 .Hpa-an’s bus station is inconveniently locatedabout 4 miles north of the clock tower, buttickets can be bought and buses boarded at afew centrally located ticket stalls (clock tower).Staff at Soe Brothers can also arrange tickets.There are three daily buses to Yangon (K4000to K8000, seven to eight hours) at 7am, 8am and7pm, with stops in Kyaikto (four hours) and Bego(six hours); even if you’re getting off in these townsyou’re expected to pay the full fare to Yangon.To Mawlamyine (K1100, two hours), busesleave the bus station every hour from 6am to4pm. Every second bus makes a brief stop topick up passengers at a stand on Bogyoke St,not far from the clock tower.Pick-up trucks to Eindu (K700), which passKaw Ka Thawng Cave and terminate part ofthe way to Saddar Cave, depart from a stop onZaydan St. There’s also a single daily pick-up toMt Zwegabin (K1000, Monday to Friday) at 8am,departing from the high school.Around Hpa-anThe real highlights of the Hpa-an area areall scattered about the divine rural countrysideout of town. While most of these sightsare accessible by public transport you willneed to devote several days to them and beprepared to give your leg muscles a workout.Therefore, almost everyone takes a motorbike(or motorised trishaw) tour organisedby the Soe Brothers Guesthouse, which circumnavigatesMt Zwegabin, stopping at allthe sights mentioned below. A full day tourcosts K30,000.Some of the closer attractions can also beexplored by bicycle. Bikes can be rented atSoe Brothers (K1500 per day), who have alsoput together a good map of the surroundingarea and its attractions.Mt ZwegabinLANDMARKjEâkp='etC='Hpa-an is hemmed in by a wrinkled chain oflimestone mountains. The tallest of these isMt Zwegabin, about 7 miles south of town,which as well as being a respectable 2372ftis also a home of spirits and saintly souls.It’s a demanding two-hour hike to thesummit – up more steps than you’d care tocount – but once at the top the rewards arestaggering views, a small monastery and astupa containing, yes, you guessed it, anotherhair from the Buddha. If you arrive at thetop before noon you can take advantage of acomplimentary lunch (rice, orange and tea)and the 11am monkey feeding – differentprimates, different menus.Kaw Ka Thawng CaveCAVESek;kes;='8UMore popular among locals than travellers,this compound actually consists of threecaves, only two of which are generally open tothe public. The first cave you’ll come to, KawKa Thawng, has been quite gentrified andhas a tile floor and numerous buddha statues.Continuing along a path, you’ll pass the stairwayto another somewhat concealed cavethat’s not normally open (allegedly a monkfound a used condom here and decided tolock it). Near the end of the path, you’ll reachan inviting spring-fed swimming hole, popularwith local kids, and another water-filledcave that also serves as a swimming hole.Splitting from the path, a long bridge leadsto Lakkana Village, a picturesque Kayin village,the backdrop to which includes Mt Zwegabinand has been featured in numerousMyanmar films and videos. The countrysidehere is drop-dead gorgeous and you couldeasily spend a day walking and swimming.Kaw Ka Thawng Cave is about 7 milesfrom Hpa-an along the road to Eindu. Toget there hop on a pick-up truck to Eindu(K700) and ask to be dropped off at Kaw KaThawng Cave. Both Kawgun and Yathaypyancaves are about 7 miles from Hpa-an, and theonly public transport will leave you a good45-minute walk from the caves, so you’ll