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106Hpa-an #e1ATo Hpan Pu‚# f Boats ToMountain (1mi) Hpan PuMountain# Ú2Jetty: Boats# f# ÿ 3to Mawlamyine6#ÿBThida St0 400 m0 0.2 milesCD1SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR KAYIN STATEThanlwin RiverBogyoke StMyint Lay St# Ú2# ñ›#14# ÿ5# ð4 # ÿ›#13# ú # ú 108 12 ›##á Clock# ð Tower›#31566HighSchoolABCas a ‘sight’ at night when it’s lit up like a gaudylollipop – it’s certainly memorable.If you’re bound for Mawlamyine andyou’ve got the time, consider taking one oftwo weekly ferries from Hpa-an. It’s worththe trip if only because this dirt-cheap riverboatpasses through stunning scenery oflimestone mountains and sugarcane fields.It’s not usually crowded and there are a fewsun chairs, perfect front-row seats for theriver show. Bring your own food and drinks.For details on the trip, see p 107 .Kannar St66#4SleepingOptions are fairly limited in Hpa-an and,unless you have your own transport, you’rerelegated to the cheaper places in town thatinspire little to write home about.oSoe Brothers Guesthouse HOTEL $(%21372; 2/146 Thitsar St; s/d $10/14, withoutbathroom $5/10) This is an excellent backpackers’choice and though the basic roomshere don’t have much space in which tostretch, they are clean and cool and the communalbathrooms are kept ship-shape. Thetwo ‘luxury’ rooms have a bit more spaceand no queues for the toilet. There are lots ofwelcoming communal areas to relax or chat.Phoekhwarr, one of the eponymous SoeThitsar StMosque#ß#æ 1Ohn Taw St# û <strong>11</strong>7 # ú# ÚBogyokeStZaydan StPaya St#òPa Don Mar St9#úBrothers, in addition to being a great guide,has put together maps of the town and environsand is very tuned in to travellers’ needs.Hotel Zwegabin HOTEL $$(%22556; Hpa-an-Mawlamyine Rd; r $30-50; a)Located about 4 miles outside Hpa-an alongthe road to Mawlamyine, this hotel boasts apark-like atmosphere in a stunning locationat the foot of limestone karsts and facing MtZwegabin. The best rooms are the very spaciousduplex bungalows with balconies takingin the view, while the cheapies are in atwo-storey condo-like bloc. All in all, not badvalue but not a very convenient place to stayif you don’t have your own wheels.Parami Motel HOTEL $$(%21647; cnr Ohn Taw St & Paya St; s/d $26/28;a) Large and comfortable rooms that comewith satellite TV and hot-water bathroomsmake this an ideal midrange rest stop. Thefriendly staff don’t speak much English andaren’t as foreigner savvy as the Soe Brothers.Nevertheless, in comparison to that hotelthe Parami is the last word in luxury.Grand Hill Hotel HOTEL $$(%22286; Sin Phyu Shin St; s/d $25/35; a) Thishotel takes the form of a suburban compoundwith cosy pink and white bunga-D23

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