Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek-Baranja County

Osijek – Baranja County

Cultural and Historical Heritageof Osijek – Baranja CountyA brief overview of secular and sacral witnesses to historyOsijek – Baranja County,a primarily low-lying regionof the North-East ofCroatia, stretches along the southborder of the Pannonian Plain. Itis a region interwoven with geographicalentities such as Baranjaregion and the regions encirclingtowns such as Đakovo, Valpovoand Donji Miholjac. The towns ofOsijek, Našice, Đakovo, Beli Manastir,Donji Miholjac, Valpovo andthe villages of Aljmaš, Erdut, Bizovac,Bilje, Darda, Kneževo, Batina,Topolje, etc. were founded in thedistant past. The legacy of theirrich history is a number of culturalmonuments containing pearls ofthe European treasure-trove. 1It is here that the rivers Drava,Karašica, Jošava, Vuka and theDanube created fertile soil for humanlife on which the Celts andlater the Romans moved, leavinga powerful mark in the historyof huge European regions andbeyond. It is where the paths ofexchange between the Thraciansand Etruscans most likely led andit was across these rivers, alongthe marshlands and through Pannonianforests that many othernations were travelling from theNorth to the South and back. Notwithout reason, though; it is wherethe Danube Limes were situ-1The seat of the county is in Osijek.Bizovac, Valpovo, Donji Miholjac andNašice are located east of Osijek,Đakovo is located south of Osijek andeast of the Osijek-Baranja county arethe villages Aljmaš and Erdut; Bilje issituated north of Osijek as well as thefamous Nature Park Kopački Rit, Darda,Tikveš, Beli Manastir, Kneževo andGajić/TopoljeCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 1

and Bishop’s Palace are a reflectionof the life of the Church in theregion. Cultural heritage of manytowns consists of many neo-classicaland secession monumentsside by side with modern architecture.Each town and village in the Osijek– Baranja County has its ownpersonality inherited with a particularhistorical era. A treasuretrovefilled to its brim with culturaland historical values so becomesa part of everyone’s memory.Osijek – Tvrđa, Holy Trinity Squareated and where the Drava Riverflowed. Many towns and villagesof the region witnessed to thesubsequent historical events.Baroque buildings in Tvrđa bearwitness to the intersection of livesof large military garrisons, statecivil service, commercial and artisans’class; many luxurious castlesin Valpovo, Bilje, Kneževo, DonjiMiholjac, Našice are testimony tothe practice of aristocratic familieswho took care of the land andthe emergence of new economicpractice; the Đakovo cathedralBishop Josip JurajStrossmayer2Našice – CastleĐakovo – Bishop’s Palace andCathedralCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

Osijeklong and turbulent history leftA many cultural and historicalmonuments in Osijek, especiallythose dating from the 18 th and19 th century.Although only partly preserved,Tvrđa (the Citadel), a symmetricalconstruction built in the styleof baroque, is one of the mostimportant ancient town cores andurban entities in Croatia and beyond.Monuments of the baroque Tvrđaare grouped around the mainsquare built in the quadrangularA view of Tvrđa from King Tomislav GardensPlague StatueSeveral detailsof the HolyTrinity votivemonumenttian, St. Rok, St. Rozalija and St.Catherine). It is one of the mostappealing baroque buildings inOsijek.The building in which the Museumof Slavonia is situated todaywas built in 1702 in the baroquestyle for the former town magistrate.Opposite of it is the townguard building dating back to1709, facing the central squareshape and dominated by a magnificentbaroque Plague Statue– the Holy Trinity Column – erectedin 1730. A large capital of theslender column represents theHoly Trinity with angels on clouds.Below is a pedestal with voluteson which protectors against theplague are situated. Four separatepedestals were added to thePlague Statue in 1784 with thestatues of four saints (St. Sebas-Tvrđa – Holy Trinity SquareCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 3

Holy Trinity Square– a view of the TownGuard buildingThe Water Gatesome aristocratic families, a line ofarmy barracks with open rows ofarcades, etc.The old Franciscan monastery(with two wings – the easternand southern – in a shape ofthe letter L) must be mentionedamong sacral cultural monumentsin Tvrđa. Its construction startedin 1699 and it was completed in1705. In the period from 1731 to1733 a new wing of the monasofTvrđa with a range of arcadesand its recognizable tower. At thenorthern side one can see thegeneral headquarters (today’sAdministration Building of theJosip Juraj Strossmayer Universityand the Faculty of Agriculture),a building of huge dimensionswith atlantes on the tall portal.There are dozens of other secularmonuments in Tvrđa and themost important are the houses ofTall portal of theGeneral Headquarterswithatlantes (today’sAdministrationBuilding ofthe Josip JurajStrossmayerUniversity andthe Faculty ofAgriculture)4Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

The Museum of Slavoniatery was added east of the church,which actually became a new monasterycompleted in 1761 and connectedto the eastern wing of theold monastery building by vaultedarches.In the period from 1709 to 1732the Franciscans built the baroquechurch of the Holy Cross, nicknamedthe church of St. Anthonyby the citizens of Osijek. The altaris situated in the east, the entrancein the west and its back part in thesouth. During construction it connectedthe corridor and organ loftwith the monastery; the main altarof the Holy Cross (built in 1726)was moved away from the wall andthe statue of Our Lady of Jud fromthe 15 th century was erected on it.Many valuable altar paintings andother pieces of church furniture arekept in the church.Parish Church of St. Michael theArchangel, the patron of the church,was situated in the west corner ofthe Juraj Križanić Square. This colossalbuilding with a hall and twomassive bell towers at the easternfront part is a representative exampleof the Austrian sacral baroquearchitecture in Slavonia. Thanks toits magnitude and highly valuablebaroque objects, this longitudinalsingle-nave building with two sidechapels on each side of the naveand a rounded sanctuary, dominatesnot only the main square butalso the whole area of Tvrđa. Builtin the style of late baroque characteristicof continental Croatia, missingonly paintings on the interiorwalls, this church belongs to one ofthe most important sacral buildingsin the Đakovo-Sirmium Diocese.The Upper Town, built consistentlyand systematically in termsof the town planning, is a genuineVaulted archeshistorical treasure trove. Graduallyacquiring all attributes of thetown centre, in the second half ofthe 19 th century the Upper Townbecame a representative part ofthe town. This statement is supportedby its many squares andthe position and appearance of itsstreets. In addition, many buildingsbuilt in the style of historicism andsecession (Jugendstil) still attractattention.One of the oldest sacral culturaland historical monuments is theCapuchin monastery built in 1710and today’s baroque church of St.Jacob, dating back to 1727. It hasa simple facade without any ornaments.The interior of the churchwas decorated with representativeoil paintings in the second half ofthe 18 th and during the 19 th century.The monumental altar pallabuilt in the late baroque style ofthe Vienna Art Academy, showingthe patron of the church, ApostleSt. Jacob Senior in the battle withthe Moors, is immensely valuable.The centre of the Upper Town isdominated by the Parish ChurchCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 5

Our Lady of Osijek –Patron of the cityFranciscan Monastery and theChurch of the Holy CrossCloister of the FranciscanmonasteryThe CapuchinMonastery and St.Jacob’s ChurchThe Church of theHoly CrossParish Church ofSt. Michael theArchangel6Interior of the Parish Church ofSt. Michael the ArchangelCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

Main altar of St. Peter and Paulof St. Peter and Paul, with a brickfacade. Its construction from 1894to 1898 was supported by the thenBosnia-Đakovo-Sirmium bishopJosip Juraj Strossmayer. Its belltower,conspicuous from all sides,is 90 meters tall. The interior of thechurch is divided into four galleries.Especially valuable among churchtreasures are frescos made by MirkoRački. The parish church of St. Peterand Paul gave the central square(Ante Starčević Square) and Osijekas a whole its recognizable symbol– the town vertical and crown.Among many buildings belongingto secular architecture in theUpper Town, especially prominentare the palace in which the seat ofthe then Virovitica county was situated,built in 1864 in the manner ofclassicism and which is used todayas the seat of the Osijek-BaranjaCounty Government; the building ofthe Croatian National Theatre builtin 1866 in “pseudo-Moorish style”and the building of the CroatianChamber of Commerce, situated inthe European Avenue. The Avenueboasts a whole array of public andprivately owned buildings built inthe period from 1904 to 1905,Parish Church of St. Peter and PaulFrescos and stained-glass windowsCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 7

Palace – the seat of theCounty GovernmentSecession buildings inEuropean Avenue;several details8Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

Main Post Office buildingUrania CinemaParish church of the MostSacred Name of MaryChapel of St. Rok and statueof Marywhich make up the most beautifulrow of secession buildings inCroatia. Among them are the mainpost office building and the UraniaCinema built in 1912.The Lower Town of Osijek, builtupon old foundations of the antiquetown of Mursa, is mainlygrouped around the main square.There are many valuable sacraland secular cultural and historicalmonuments. Among themis a baroque chapel of St. RokCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 9

Former Jewish synagogue – todaya part of the Evangelical andTheological Faculty of Osijek1796 – 1801 in the late baroqueclassicism, which was characteristicof the west and middle Europeancastle architecture of that time.It belongs to the Legion of MaryMiraculous Medal today. Westof the former gardens, there is achapel-mausoleum built in a pavilion-stylededicated to the Pejačevićfamily. Today it is a constituent partof the Retfala cemetery.10built in 1744 during the greatplague epidemic and the statueof Mary erected in 1754. Theparish church of the Most SacredName of Mary, the most beautifulbaroque church, was built inthe period from 1733 to 1743.The former Jewish synagogue inCvjetkova street, built in 1902, is apart of the Evangelical and TheologicalFaculty of Osijek. There arealso many family houses built inthe late baroque style in the secondhalf of the 18 th century, suchas the houses of the Aksmanović,Kragujević and other families.In the most western part of Osijek,also known as Retfala, a singlestoreycastle of the count familyPejačević was built during the socalled Napoleonic period fromChapel-mausoleumof thePejačević familyCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

BizovacBizovac is a charming Slavonianplace, situated some twentykilometres west of Osijek. Today it iswell-known for its thermal spa water(and indoor and outdoor swimmingpools) rather than its single-storeymanor and the whole range of outbuildingsowned by the counts ofPrandau - Normann Ehrenfels, builtin the first half of the 19 th century.The single-storey castle is built inthe style of historicism, shaped asa shallow letter “U” and furnishedwith idyllic windows trimmed withornamented wooden frames.Parish church of St. Matthew wasbuilt in 1802. It was extended andManor of the Prandau – Normann familyMain altara sacristy was added in 1875. Itis a simple classicistic single-navebuilding with a rounded sanctuary.A single-storey parish house wasbuilt in the second half of the 19 thcentury.Parish church of St. MatthewCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 11

Donji MiholjacDonji Miholjac, a town situatedalmost at the very bank of theriver Drava, has been continuallypopulated from times immemorial.There are two castles in the townin which aristocratic families lived.A fairly large building, also knownas the old castle of Miholjac, with afront facade stretching through thevery centre of Donji Miholjac, wasbuilt in 1818 by the baroness MarijaAna (née Pejačević), the widowof baron Josip Ignac Hilleprand vonPrandau. The single-storey castlebuilt in the style of late baroqueends in a circular decorative turretin its south-eastern corner, movedaway from it and connected with itby a terrace. The facade facing thestreet was given certain regularityby a row of 19 identical windowsLate baroque one-storey castle of the Prandau familywith subtle late baroque ornamentsand the facade facing thebackyard offers the same impressionby a row of bolted windows.The second castle in Miholjac,more recently built and as prettyas the first one, is that of theCastle of the Mailáth family built in the style of romanticism and historicismMailáth family, built in the style ofhistoricism and neo-romanticism,with magnificent gardens modelledafter the English gardens,creating thus a picture of a castleas if built in the tenor of the Tudortimes. It was constructed in theperiod from 1903 to 1906 andbelongs to one of the youngest,prettiest and the most romanticcastles of Slavonia. A number oftowers and chimneys, semicircularand other types of risalites, aterrace trimmed by iron pillar-likefences, turrets at the corners, etc.give this castle a particular romantictouch rarely seen in the Slavonianplains. (The Mailáth familyacquired Donji Miholjac throughmarriage with the Prandau family.)The new baroque parish churchof St. Michael the Archangel, builton ancient Gothic foundations, is acolossal structure of the 18 th centurybaroque architecture suggestingsome elements of classicism;it is a single-nave church with adistinctive barrel-shaped archedceiling and a rounded sanctuary.Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 13

NašiceNašice is famous for its culturaland historical monuments aswell as their remains dating back tothe medieval times. It was the Franciscanswho left a particularly importantmark by building a colossalthree-winged single-storey monasteryin the 18 th century, which wasre-constructed in the period from1712 to 1755. They also turnedrenovated after the earthquake in1817. It was expanded during thecount Ladislav Pejačević’s life andtook on its present appearance forthe most part in 1850. In 1865 thecastle was expanded considerablyand rounded towers were added atthe edges of the castle. (The castleis a home of the County Museumand art gallery today). Pejačević’sFranciscan monastery with the Church ofSt. Anthony of Padua14the old gothic church of St. Anthonyof Padua into a baroque church.There are medieval altars in thechurch (built 1765 – 1774), a pulpit(1769), confessionals (1772),an organ made by Josip Janečekof Budim (1776), a rococo oratorywith the Pejačević family coatof arms, choir loft pews and otherchurch furnishings.The most impressive buildings inthe centre of Našice are two castlesof the count Pejačević family, situatedin spacious English gardens.They are beautiful examples of thecountry-style architecture in easternCroatia built in the manner of historicismand classicism. The main,great castle of the Pejačević familywas built in 1812 and completelyGreat castle of the Pejačevićfamily with gardensHunting castle or small castle ofthe Pejačević familyhunting house , also known as thesmall castle is situated in the centreof the gardens (it is today used asa school). It was built in the style ofclassicism in 1905 and was movedinto two years later.There are several buildings built inthe style of classicism and secessionin the centre of Našice and anumber of tombs at the local cemetery– neo-gothic mausoleum chapelwith the crypt of the Pejačevićfamily and the grave of the famousCroatian composer Dora Pejačevićwith her marble bust.Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

ĐakovoĐakovo has every right to beproud of its past as well asmany cultural and historical monumentsdating from times immemorialand more recent ones from the20 th century. Known as Certissa inthe Roman times or castrum Dyacoin the Middle Ages it was mentionedfor the first time in 1239 induke Koloman’s deed of donation.He was the brother of theCroatian-Hungarian king Bela IV,Parish Church of All SaintsLate baroque capitularycanonicalresidencesseum, a memorial to the bishopJosip Juraj Strossmayer and themuseum of the Đakovo regionwith a picture gallery, the diocesanarchives and library, monastery ofthe sisters of the Holy Cross witha church and some other buildings– have preserved the charmof the old town core which is interwovenwith baroque, secessionand historicism features.who donated the town of Đakovowith a large land area to Bosnianbishops. Symmetrically built andin terms of style uniform buildings,the parts of which originate fromvarious historical periods – thewalls from the 14 th century, theparish church of All Saints – theformer Turkish mosque from the16 th century, late baroque capitularycanonical residences, neoromanicbishop’s cathedral of St.Peter, Chancery, the diocesan mu-Memorial to Bishop Josip Juraj StrossmayerCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 15

The panorama of Đakovo isdominated by a monumentalneoromanic cathedral of St. Peterwith two bell towers (84 metrestall), erected by the Bosnia-Đakovo-Sirmium bishop Josip JurajStrossmayer. It was constructedin the period from 1866 to1882 according to the designmade by two Vienna architects,Karl Roesner and Friedrich vonSchmidt. There is a crypt in thecathedral, the final resting placeof bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer,which is ornamented with afamous relief, a work of RudolfValdec.St. Peter’s CathedralInterior of theCathedral16Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

AljmašIn Aljmaš, a village situated inthe vicinity of confluence of therivers Drava and the Danube,witnesses to history - castle andmanor of the aristocratic familyAdamović - are situated at a hillyside of the village. A spacious castlein the style of classicism wasbuilt at the beginning of the 19 thcentury. It is a single-storey buildingbuilt in the shape of the letter“U” with a very pronounced andlong portico at the entrance. Theportico is supported by four massiverectangular columns and tworounded columns in the middlewith a flight of five steps in between.This magnificent entranceportico ends with a large triangulargable decorated with a motifof blind arcades at the edges.The manor of the Adamović familywas also built in the first halfof the 19 th century. It is a simpleclassicistic one-storey building laidout in the rectangular shape. Itsfront is composed by nine windowaxes, two of which are shallowrisalite projections. (Both buildingswere severely damaged in 1991.)Votive statue of Our Lady of ConsolationAljmaš is a diocesan parish andone of the most important parishfºte sites honouring the BlessedVirgin Mary in the eastern Croatia.The parish church of the Visitationof Mary contains a sanctuary witha statue of Our Lady of Consolation,brought there in 1704 bythe Jesuits of Osijek. During histhird papal visit to Croatia on June7, 2003 His Holiness Pope JohnPaul II, crowned the votive statueof Our Lady of Consolation in aspecial ceremony at the Eucharistin Osijek.Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 17

ErdutLike guards at the Danube nextto the village of Erdut stand theruins of a former medieval fortifiedfeudal town and later a seatof manorial estate. The place itselfrises some hundred meters abovethe right bank of the Danube justin the centre of a meander createdby the Danube between thevillages of Aljmaš and Dalj.The Adamović-Cseh family built alargish manor which served as acentre of the estate and residentialarea and owned many outhousesand large cellars which are usedeven today. The layout of themanor, built at the end of the 18 thor beginning of the 19 th centuryin the style of historicism, is quiteextended. It is a building with asingle-storey wing and polygonaltower with a turret. (It is a placewhere on November 12, 1995the Erdut Agreement was signed,a document marking the end ofthe Croatian War of Independenceand founding of the UnitedNations Transitional Administrationin Eastern Slavonia, Baranja andWestern Sirmium (UNTAES).Manor of theAdamović-Csehfamily18Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

BiljeCastle of Eugene of SavoyBilje, a village in Baranja situatednext to one of the largestEuropean marshland and birdreservesbordering the Danube,Kopački Rit, boasts a magnificentbaroque castle with large gardens,built by Prince Eugene of Savoy inthe period from 1705 to 1712.The main and most representativepart of the castle is a single-storeyconstruction with a massive towerin the central part, ornamentedby pilasters and profiled sculpturalwreaths. Side wings are designedin a simple manner with regularrows of windows. At the front facadeabove the entrance passagewaythere is a well-preserved polychromecoat of arms of the Savoyfamily. The trench around thecastle reminds of a medieval typeof defence. The central buildingfaces the bridge. The castle usedto be a seat of the huge Belje manorialestate until 1827 when themanagement moved to Kneževo.The whole complex of the castleis supplemented by romantic, spaciousand tended gardens.A detail – Coat of arms of theSavoy familyThe parish church of ImmaculateConception of the Blessed VirginMary was built in 1775. It used tobe a sacral single-nave constructionwith rounded sanctuary andfurnishings characteristic of latebaroque and early classicism style.(During the aggression againstCroatia in 1991/1992 the belltower was destroyed, the sacristyburnt down and all treasures pillaged).After the peaceful reintegrationof Baranja in 1998 thechurch was completely reconstructedand its former splendourwas thus restored.Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 19

DardaThe castle complex and gardensof the Croatian-Hungarianfamily Eszterházy can be reachedthrough a secession iron gatemade by hand by an unknownartist. Although the castle in Dardais the so called ‘second category’monument, it is in a very poorcondition due to complete devastationand plundering during theCroatian War of Independence(1991/1992). It is still awaitingreconstruction. It is a single-storeybuilding erected in the secondhalf of the 18 th century as acentral part of the spacious estateowned by baron Eszterházy. It is acombination of a baroque layoutcharacteristic of the time in whichit was built and the concept ofclassicism which was just startingto develop in architecture. In thecentral part of the front, on threeidentical arcades, lies a woodenveranda fitted with glass and endingin a triangular classicistic gable.Side wings have simple lines andare connected with single-storeyouthouses in the backyard.There is a parish church of St.John the Baptist in the vicinity ofthe castle, which was built in theperiod from 1715 – 1717. Thissplendid baroque constructionused to be a single-nave churchwith a risalite bell tower abovethe main entrance until it wascompletely destroyed during theCroatian War of Independence.The church had valuable interiortreasures dating from the 18 th and19 th century. (It has yet to be reconstructed).There is also a parochial church ofSt. Michael in Darda, which wasbuilt in 1777 in the baroque style.It has a barrel-shaped ceiling inthe nave and it is furnished by the18 th and for the most part the 19 thcentury furniture characteristic ofclassicism.Castle of baronEszterházy20Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

TikvešIn a natural paradise of the Danubemarshlands, south of theBaranja village of Lug, a small single-storeyhunting castle was builtin the 19 th century in a famousforest and hunting resort of Tikveš.The castle was probably built byarch-duke Fridrich von Habsburg.Until the World War I the castlewas used as a summer house anda hunting lodge.The main castle in Tikveš wasbuilt in the 1930s in a classicisticstyle with features characteristic ofsecession and several outhouseswere added in the mid-twentiethcentury. The front of the castledemonstrates the liveliness ofclassicism, enclosed by tuck-pointedfacade bricks and corners areplastered in such a way that thefacade resembles stone blocks.(During the Croatian War of Independencein 1991/1992 itwas devastated and pillaged andGreat castle in Tikvešremained so all until the peacefulreintegration of Baranja in1998. Today it is reconstructedand turned into tourist facilities. Itis under the administration of theNature Park Kopački Rit.)Hunting castleCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 21

Beli ManastirThere are two sacral buildings inBeli Manastir – parish churchof St. Martin the Bishop and aparochial Orthodox church of St.Michael the Archangel.The wooden parish church of St.Martin the Bishop was built in1738 and a late baroque churchwas built on its foundations in1777, which was later reconstructedseveral times during the19 th and the 20 th century. (Thissacral object was severely damagedand destroyed by the fire inthe aggression against Croatia in1991/1992. After the peacefulreintegration of Baranja in 1998it was completely renovated andits former splendour was thus restored.)Parish church ofSt. Martin the BishopA single-nave late baroque parochialOrthodox church of St.Michael the Archangel was builtin 1771. Rich church furnishingswere preserved in it.Parochial Orthodox church of St.Michael the Archangel22Cultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County

KneževoThere are several buildings inlate baroque/historicism andclassicism style in the very centreof Kneževo, which were used foreconomic and partly managerialpurposes of the great Belje manorialestate.The castle in Kneževo was built in1828 (according to some sourcesin 1818) as a single-storey buildingwith unpretentious classicisticfeatures. It did not have any representativepurpose but rather itwas an economic seat of manor’sowners. Its layout demonstrates avery elongated rectangular shape.Its western main facade faces thevillage and its eastern the gardens.The central, two-storey part of thecastle with a triangular gable, atthe length of the window axes, risesabove fundamental dimensionsof the castle, showing ornamentsin the shape of shallow risalite onthe main facade. All front facadeshave simple forms, except for themain front facade decorated witha portal with a segmented arch,rustic ornaments in the groundfloor,two-storey pilasters in thecentral risalite part and a sculpturedwreath dividing the groundfloorand the first-floor.Castle in KneževoCultural and Historical Heritage of Osijek - Baranja County 23