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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

No 13<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

SOFIA<br />

<strong>In</strong>cluding<br />

BOROVETS<br />

Enjoy your<br />

COMPLIMENTARY<br />

COPY<br />

of Sofia<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

January-March 2009<br />

Winter Fun<br />

Down the slopes of<br />

Vitosha and Borovets<br />

Metal Winter<br />

Headbang till springtime


<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the<br />

continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

Europe’s City Guide<br />

inyourpocket.com<br />

ESS ENT I A L C I T Y GUID E S


ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />

Contents<br />

Arriving in Sofia 5<br />

Touching down<br />

The Basics 6<br />

Essential reading for those not sure where<br />

they are<br />

History 8<br />

How the past has shaped the present<br />

<strong>In</strong>troducing Sofia 9<br />

Mayor of Sofia<br />

Keeping in touch 10<br />

Let your Mum know how you are<br />

Culture & Events 12<br />

This winter, mostly heavy metal!<br />

The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n symbol - Tsarevets<br />

Famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns – Khan Krum and Ralitsa<br />

Vassileva<br />

Pablo Picasso’s paintings are in town<br />

Where to stay 18<br />

Places to recharge the batteries and catch up<br />

on your beauty sleep<br />

Dining & Nightlife<br />

Restaurants 25<br />

Where to wine and dine<br />

Cafés 34<br />

Feed the addiction<br />

Nightlife 35<br />

Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands<br />

and knees<br />

Contents<br />

Message from the Mayor<br />

Dear visitor,<br />

Welcome to Sofia.<br />

Our city has ancient and intriguing<br />

history. It is a capital, rich in<br />

cultural monuments, dating from<br />

antiquity to present day. The<br />

constantly renewed face of the<br />

city is true to its motto: “It grows,<br />

but never ages”.<br />

If you are visiting our capital for<br />

the first time, you will certainly<br />

enjoy seeing the Church of St. Sofia, the Alexander Nevski<br />

Memorial Church, the Rotunda of St. George and the<br />

Boyana Church from the 11 th century.<br />

You can explore the collections of the National History<br />

Museum, the Archeological Museum, the National<br />

Art Gallery, as well as other museums and galleries,<br />

throughout the city.<br />

Most of Sofia’s main sights are centrally situated and<br />

can easily be visited on foot.<br />

If you have already been here before, now you will discover<br />

new and exciting places to visit; great restaurants,<br />

clubs, shops and galleries, which will undoubtedly enrich<br />

your stay in Sofia. I sincerely wish you a wonderful time<br />

in our capital city.<br />

Boyko Borisov<br />

Mayor of Sofia<br />

What to see 43<br />

Essential Sofia<br />

Sofia districts - Boyana and Dragalevtsi<br />

Mount Vitosha<br />

Getting around 54<br />

Making sense of transport<br />

Directory<br />

Shopping 58<br />

Go on a spree<br />

Health & Lifestyle 62<br />

Prevention is better than cure<br />

Sports 65<br />

Get this six-pack<br />

Business 68<br />

Oligarchs anonymous<br />

Borovets 71<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s oldest winter resort<br />

Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />

Street index 74<br />

<strong>In</strong>dex 74<br />

City map 75<br />

City centre map 76<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> map 78<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

3


4 foreWord<br />

Basically people are two types: chilling and freezing. To know<br />

them, you just need a winter, some snow and free time. You<br />

have all these, so you are either: Type “A” - you have aching<br />

pains, as well as a pair of skis, or a snowboard up on the<br />

wardrobe and you are happy to eagerly spend most of your<br />

holiday money just to go up the darn mountains; And type ”B”<br />

– with a closet, filled with bear-skin thick coats and scarves<br />

and thinking of ice only in terms of cooling the booze?<br />

All type “A-s”, who have already taken this issue out of their<br />

pockets, can jump right to page 71 and learn some very<br />

useful information about <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s oldest winter resort<br />

Borovets. It happens to be quite close to Sofia and offers<br />

good accommodation, cool places to eat and party, as well<br />

as long ski-runs, with a several degrees of difficulty, known<br />

as one of the best in the land. Vitosha Mountain, Sofia’s<br />

extinct volcano also offers some thrills and rides, including<br />

a superbly lit night ski-run for all those who hate “early to<br />

bed, early to rise”.<br />

Of course, winter fun is not just for mountain slope fanatics,<br />

you can shred some ice on the skate-rinks in Sofia (see more<br />

on page 66), or, being the “B”-type, as in “I think I need a quick<br />

shot to warm me up”, “boozing and partying” or just “bar fly”,<br />

you can look around for some indoor amusement.<br />

This winter, Sofia will host some furious metal shows and<br />

if names like Sepultura, Sodom, Kreator, Lordi and even<br />

softer sounding Marillion and The Rasmus, are somewhere<br />

in your play list, then you will have the chance to meet them<br />

in person, on stage (see more on page 16).<br />

For all those art fans, or even for all human beings, a close<br />

encounter with an artist as brilliant as Picasso can be pretty<br />

mind-bending. An exhibition of his works is in the National<br />

Gallery of Foreign Art until the middle of March (see more on<br />

page 17). You can also catch a last glimpse at the projects<br />

of some of the biggest stadia and theatres in Communist<br />

Russia.<br />

As usual, we keep you informed about everything new and<br />

interesting in Sofia. You can learn about the suburban neighbourhoods<br />

Boyana and Dragalevtsi, known for their huge<br />

mansions and big shiny cars, or find out about the Tsarevets<br />

fortress in Veliko Tarnovo, which used to be the heart of the<br />

Second <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom.<br />

Speaking of history, our famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are Khan Krum,<br />

the merciless ruler and Ralitsa Vassileva – long time news<br />

presenter on CNN.<br />

And of course, on the First of March all <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns and their<br />

welcomed guests should put on their martenitsas, so we<br />

can all celebrate the long awaited Springtime!<br />

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3,<br />

pristroika, parter<br />

(opposite the Business Park)<br />

1715 Sofia, <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02<br />

fax: + 359 2 881 53 32<br />

sofia@inyourpocket.com<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

ISSN 1312-742X<br />

© Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd.<br />

Printed by Delta High Print EAD<br />

Published 4 times per year<br />

15 000 copies<br />

Editorial<br />

Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay<br />

Assistant Editor Vesela Lyudskanova, Mitko<br />

Nikolov<br />

Research Mitko Nikolov, Vesela<br />

Lyudskanova, Maya Kozareva<br />

Layout & Design Krassimir Apostolov<br />

Photos Veronica de Boer, Nikola Apostolov,<br />

Vladimir Hadzhiev<br />

Cover Veronica de Boer<br />

Europe <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

Odesa <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>, a mini-guide to the jewel<br />

of the Ukrainian coast, became the 50th <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />

<strong>Pocket</strong> guide when published back in November. It<br />

was followed quickly by Maribor <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>,<br />

a mini-guide to the second largest city in Slovenia.<br />

This year will see more new full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>s,<br />

in Sarejevo, Glasgow and Vienna. If you want to<br />

join the <strong>Pocket</strong> Revolution and publish your own<br />

guide, to your city, get in touch with us at publisher@inyourpocket.com.<br />

You should also make<br />

sure you take a look at our new, much improved<br />

website. It is packed with exclusive content, and<br />

offers you the chance to really get involved, writing<br />

your own reviews or commenting on our features.<br />

Go surf at inyourpocket.com.<br />

Copyright notice<br />

Text and photos copyright Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

Ltd. – <strong>Bulgaria</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> 2008.<br />

Maps copyright cartographer. All rights<br />

reser ved. No part of this publication may<br />

be reproduced in any form, except brief<br />

extracts for the purpose of review, without<br />

written permission from the publisher<br />

and copyright owner. The brand name<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license from<br />

UAB <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,<br />

Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.<br />

Sales & Circulation<br />

Publisher Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd.<br />

General Manager Veronica de Boer<br />

Marketing Manager and PR Petya Racheva<br />

Sales & Circulation Vesela Lyudskanova<br />

Editor’s note<br />

The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

guides is independent from paid-for<br />

advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />

Available from Airports – Burgas, Varna, clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />

Plovdiv and Sofia, airline companies, rent- readers’ comments and suggestions.<br />

a-cars, hotels, bars, restaurants, business We have made every effort to ensure<br />

centres, shopping malls, foreign embassies the accuracy of the information at the<br />

and international forums. To order your copy time of going to press and assume no<br />

online visit www.inyourpocket.com<br />

responsibility for changes and errors.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Relax. There seem to be more signs, written in the<br />

English language on major roads, and there are more and<br />

more <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, who feel confident to speak “English”.<br />

After all, they have been watching American subbed<br />

movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people<br />

have university degrees. The more you get stuck in traffic<br />

jams and the harder it is to park, then you must be in the<br />

city centre.<br />

By plane<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east<br />

of the city centre, is divided into two terminals - the aging<br />

Terminal 1 and the recently opened Terminal 2. The arrivals<br />

halls at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire and taxi<br />

counters, information desk, ATMs and exchange bureaux<br />

(although beware that rates here are not particularly<br />

generous, so it’s best to only change enough cash for immediate<br />

survival).<br />

Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the arrivals<br />

halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow taxis<br />

parked outside (OK Supertrans and Taxi S Express). The<br />

fare into town shouldn’t cost more than 16Lv (E8).<br />

Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal<br />

1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5)<br />

on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly<br />

every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets<br />

cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the<br />

driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bulky<br />

piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined<br />

by ticket inspectors.<br />

By train<br />

Sofia’s Central Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00<br />

- 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute<br />

walk north of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage,<br />

money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets.<br />

Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the<br />

adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage<br />

lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage<br />

office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket<br />

hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item).<br />

Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1<br />

or 7 (buy ticket from kiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from<br />

opposite the station forecourt - head for the subterranean<br />

underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take<br />

you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s<br />

amenities - get off when you see the Sheraton Hotel looming<br />

up on your left.<br />

The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpredictable<br />

bunch; check that their meters are switched on<br />

or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200<br />

metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi<br />

firms are more reputable.<br />

By bus<br />

Most international and domestic buses arrive at the<br />

spanking new Central Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara),<br />

200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to<br />

other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly<br />

civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a<br />

pharmacy, and an ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage<br />

office (2-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket<br />

hall.<br />

To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south<br />

down bul. Maria Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to<br />

pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see above).<br />

There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

arrIv<strong>In</strong>G <strong>In</strong> sofIa<br />

Street smarts<br />

Street Улица (ул.) Ulitsa (ul.)<br />

Square Площад (пл.) Ploshtad (pl.)<br />

Boulevard Булевард (бул.) Boulevard (bul.)<br />

Highway Магистрала Magistrala<br />

Bridge Мост Most<br />

Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-Market terminal<br />

mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this<br />

is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices<br />

and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on<br />

either side to find any facilities.<br />

By car<br />

Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudits for<br />

being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your<br />

speed to avoid the many police checks on incoming roads.<br />

Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake<br />

and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and<br />

get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam,<br />

which are unfortunately becoming more and more frequent,<br />

especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find<br />

in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones<br />

cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clamping and<br />

your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking vouchers<br />

are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can<br />

just send SMS to 1302 with your registration number (for<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and transit license plate numbers), and you will<br />

be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to<br />

pay for the next hour.<br />

BOOK ON: +359 2 981 46 26,<br />

reservations@europcar.bg, www.europcar.bg<br />

Free delivery / collection<br />

� The Sofia<br />

telephone code is: 02<br />

January - March 2009<br />

5


6 BasICs<br />

Alcohol<br />

The archetypal national tipple is rakiya, which usually comes<br />

as either grozdova rakiya (grape brandy) or slivova (plum).<br />

It’s usually served up in 50g or 100g shots and is consumed<br />

alongside salad or some other form of nibble – wait-staff will<br />

consider you peculiar if you don’t order at least something to<br />

snack on while you’re slugging down spirits. As far as beer is<br />

concerned, <strong>Bulgaria</strong> produces several palatable if unexciting<br />

lagers – Zagorka, Shumensko and Kamenitsa are the most<br />

reliable of the big brands. Much more impressive are the dry<br />

red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon from Svishtov and<br />

Oryahovitsa, Merlot from Stambolovo, Gumza from Novo Selo,<br />

Mavrud from Asenovgrad, and Melnik from the village of same<br />

name. The Chardonnays and Traminers from Veliki Preslav are<br />

among the best of the whites.<br />

Customs<br />

If you are travelling within the EU, those over 18 can now take<br />

10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries<br />

will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />

You’re not allowed to export antiques, artworks or coins<br />

of numismatic value unless you have a permit issued by<br />

the Ministry of Culture. Due to fears about child trafficking,<br />

travellers with small children may be asked for documentary<br />

evidence of their parental relationship before being allowed<br />

to leave the country.<br />

Electricity<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> runs on a 220 volt electricity supply (so some<br />

visitors will need to bring a transformer). Standard continental<br />

two-prong plugs are used, so others will need to<br />

furnish themselves with an adaptor, if they want to use their<br />

hairdryer/phone/ charger/laptop.<br />

Smoking<br />

Cafès, bars and restaurants are required by law to provide an<br />

area for non-smokers. <strong>In</strong> practice however this will probably<br />

consist of one or two tables, surrounded on all sides by<br />

nicotine addicts happily puffing away.<br />

Tourist information<br />

The National Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre B-3,<br />

pl. Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. 933 58 45, fax 989 69<br />

39, info@bulgariatravel.org, www.bulgariatravel.<br />

org. The Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre has undergone<br />

a far-reaching facelift in the past few months, and<br />

now constitutes an inviting and altogether quite chic<br />

info-boutique, equipped with designer bar-stools for<br />

tourists to perch on while helpful staff distribute free<br />

maps or search their databases for the answers to all<br />

sorts of queries. They aren’t authorized to make hotel<br />

reservations on tourists’ behalf, but they do distribute<br />

well-informed locally-published guides like this one.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />

20B (entrance from ul. Lavele), tel. 980 51 02, fax<br />

980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg.<br />

com. The staff at this private travel agency, specializing<br />

in individual and alternative holidays are a mine of invaluable<br />

information - be aware however that they charge a<br />

5Lv consultancy fee (which is deducted from the cost<br />

of any arrangements you book through them). QOpen<br />

08:30 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Visas<br />

Citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the<br />

USA can stay in the country visa-free for 90 days. Nationals<br />

of other countries should contact the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n embassies or<br />

consulates in their home countries about visa arrangements.<br />

Note that visas cannot be obtained at the border.<br />

If you wish to extend your stay beyond the 90-day period you<br />

should apply for a residence permit from the Immigration<br />

Office, bul. Maria Luiza 48, tel. 982 37 64. Open 09:00 –<br />

17:00. Closed Sat & Sun.<br />

Key phrases<br />

The following is a list of some of the most common words<br />

and phrases a person is likely to need.<br />

Hello Zdravei<br />

Goodbye Dovizhdane<br />

Please Molya<br />

You’re welcome Pak zapoviadaite<br />

Thank you Blagodarya<br />

Excuse me Izvinete<br />

Yes / No Da / Ne<br />

Cheers Nazdrave<br />

I don’t understand Ne razbiram<br />

I don’t know Ne znam<br />

Do you speak English? Govorite li angliiski?<br />

What’s up? Kakvo stava?<br />

Good morning! Dobro utro!<br />

Good afternoon / evening! Dobur den / vecher!<br />

Good night! Leka nosht!<br />

Have you got…? Imate li…?<br />

Where can I buy…? Kude moga da kupya…?<br />

How many / how much? Kolko / Kolko struva?<br />

Good / bad Dobro / losho<br />

Expensive / cheap Skupo / evtino<br />

New / old Novo / staro<br />

Hot / cold Toplo / studeno<br />

Forgive me! Prostete mi!<br />

You are a very pretty girl Vie ste mnogo krasivo<br />

momiche<br />

You are a very attractive man Vie ste mnogo<br />

privlekatelen mazh<br />

May I have the bill? Mozhe li smetkata?<br />

No offence, but it’s too Ne se obizhdayte, no<br />

expensive for me<br />

Days of week<br />

e tvarde skapo za men<br />

Monday Ponedelnik<br />

Tuesday Vtornik<br />

Wednesday Sryada<br />

Thursday Chetvurtak<br />

Friday Petuk<br />

Saturday Subota<br />

Sunday<br />

Numbers<br />

Nedelya<br />

1 edno<br />

2 dve<br />

3 tri<br />

4 chetiri<br />

5 pet<br />

6 shest<br />

7 sedem<br />

8 osem<br />

9 devet<br />

10 deset<br />

100 sto<br />

1000 hilyada<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Roads & Traffic police<br />

Most <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns turn into psychopaths as soon as they get<br />

behind the wheel of a car, although given the state of the road<br />

network one can hardly blame them. Cow-sized potholes,<br />

suicidal pedestrians and drunken cyclists riding on the wrong<br />

side of the road are just some of the things to look out for –<br />

and with hazards like these you need to swerve around like<br />

a stunt driver in order to stay in one piece.<br />

Streets in central Sofia can be clogged with traffic. Road<br />

signage is haphazard and street names are almost exclusively<br />

in Cyrillic, so you need to research your route on a map before<br />

you set off. Finding a place to park can be a nightmare. A lot socalled<br />

blue-zone parking areas are run by private companies.<br />

Parking vouchers (1Lv/hour) are sold on the spot by parking<br />

attendants. <strong>In</strong> order to drive on <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n roads outside Sofia<br />

you’ll need to purchase a vignette which must be displayed in<br />

the windscreen. You can get these from border crossings, all<br />

post offices and OMV and Shell gas stations. For a car or SUV<br />

vignettes cost 10Lv for one week, 25Lv for one month, and<br />

67Lv for a year. Speed limits are 120km/hr on main highways,<br />

90km/hr on minor roads and 50km/hr in urban areas.<br />

Talking on a mobile phone while driving is strictly forbidden,<br />

as is driving under the influence of more than 0.5/1000 of<br />

alcohol. Foreigners are well advised to obey the rules of the<br />

road even if they see locals behaving otherwise: the police<br />

rarely speak English and are unlikely to show any lenience.<br />

Police checks on major highways are common, especially<br />

when entering or leaving Sofia at the weekend. Policeman are<br />

allowed to charge on-the-spot fines up to 50 Lv.<br />

Basic data<br />

Territory: <strong>Bulgaria</strong> takes up 110, 550 km2 of land. It<br />

shares borders with Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia<br />

and Romania. The country is bordered to the east by a<br />

354km-long stretch of Black Sea coastline.<br />

Rivers: The main rivers in the country are Danube,<br />

Maritsa, Mesta, Strouma, Iskar, Yantra. There are more<br />

than 600 warm and cold mineral springs.<br />

Highest Point: Musala (2925m), south of Sofia in the<br />

Rila mountains.<br />

Population of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>: 7,385,367 (July 2006 est.)<br />

Population of Sofia: 1,377,531 (July 2006 est.)<br />

Foreigners in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>: 60 000 (July 2006 est.)<br />

Foreign tourists per year: approximately 6,5 million.<br />

Local time: <strong>Bulgaria</strong> is part of the Eastern European Time<br />

Zone (GMT +2); when it is noon in Sofia it is 11:00 in Berlin,<br />

10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York City.<br />

Religion: Traditional religion in the Republic of <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

is Eastern Orthodox Christianity. Orthodox 85%, Muslim<br />

8%, others 7%.<br />

Market values<br />

How do costs compare to back home? Here is handy list<br />

of local prices to give you an idea.<br />

Leva Euro<br />

Loaf of white bread 1.00 0.50<br />

Snickers bar 0.80 0.40<br />

Litre of vodka 40.00 20.00<br />

Bottle of local beer 2.00 1.00<br />

20 Marlboros 5.00 2.50<br />

Exchange rates (as of January 2009): US$1 - 1.40Lv;<br />

€1 – 1.95Lv; £1 – 2.08Lv<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

The Cyrillic Alphabet<br />

BasICs<br />

Аа a as in arm<br />

Бб b as in bath<br />

Вв v as in van<br />

Гг g as in go<br />

Дд d as in dog<br />

Ее e as in let<br />

Жж zh as ’s’ in measure<br />

Зз z as in zoo<br />

Ии i as in bit<br />

Йй y as in yoke<br />

Кк k as in keep<br />

Лл l as in like<br />

Мм m as in map<br />

Нн n as in not<br />

Оо o as in opera<br />

Пп p as in pen<br />

Рр r as in run<br />

Сс s as in sit<br />

Тт t as in tap<br />

Уу u as in rule<br />

Фф f as in fan<br />

Хх h as in hand<br />

Цц ts as in cuts<br />

Чч ch as in church<br />

Шш sh as in short<br />

Щщ sht as in smashed<br />

Ъъ a as in but<br />

Ьь softens ’o’ as in yoga<br />

Юю yu as in you<br />

Яя ya as in yard<br />

National holidays<br />

January 1: New Year’s Day (Nova godina)<br />

March 3: Liberation Day (Liberation from the Ottoman<br />

rule) (Denyat na osvobozhdenieto)<br />

April 19: Easter (Velikden)<br />

May 1: Labour Day (Denyat na truda)<br />

May 6: St. George’s Day (Gergyovden; Day of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Army)<br />

May 24: St. St. Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril<br />

i Metodyi; Day of the Cyrillic Alphabet and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Education and Culture)<br />

September 6: Unification Day (Saedinenieto; marking<br />

the unification of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and Eastern Rumelia in<br />

1885)<br />

September 22: <strong>In</strong>dependence Day (Denyat na nezavisimostta)<br />

December 24,25,26: Christmas (Koleda)<br />

Important phone numbers<br />

Fire: 160 / 112<br />

Ambulance: 150 / 112<br />

Police: 166 / 112<br />

Road assistance: 146<br />

Anti-corruption unit: 982 22 22, www.nocorr.mvr.bg<br />

Telephone information: 11800<br />

Breakdown Service: 91146 or 146 if you’re calling from<br />

a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n mobile<br />

January - March 2009<br />

7


8 HIstory<br />

History<br />

Antiquity <strong>In</strong> antiquity, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, the land of Orpheus and<br />

Spartacus, belongs to the Kingdom of Macedonia.<br />

4 th century BC The territory of contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong> is<br />

conquered by the Macedonians, lead by Philip II and his son<br />

Alexander the Great. During the first century AD these lands<br />

become Roman provinces.<br />

632 The History of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> as a separate country begins<br />

with the establishment of Old Great <strong>Bulgaria</strong> (also known<br />

as Onoguria).<br />

681 First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom is established by Khan<br />

Asparuh.<br />

865 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> becomes a Christian country. Tsar Boris I accepts<br />

Orthodox Christianity.<br />

9 th -10 th centuries “The Golden Age” period under the rule of<br />

Tsar Simeon the Great. The Slavic writing is officially accepted<br />

throughout the country. Literature schools, imposing temples<br />

and monasteries are built. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> has an outlet on three<br />

seas - the Black sea, Aegean Sea and the Adriatic. The capital<br />

is moved to Veliki Preslav, which during that period could be<br />

compared with the beauty and glory of Constantinople.<br />

1018 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> falls under Byzantine rule until 1185.<br />

1185 The Second <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom (1185-1396) is founded<br />

after two brothers, Asen and Peter. The capital city of the new<br />

kingdom becomes Veliko Turnovo.<br />

12 th -13 th centuries Under the rule of the Tsar Kaloyan (1197-<br />

1207) and Tsar Ivan Asen II (1218-1241), <strong>Bulgaria</strong> becomes<br />

a dominant power in the Balkans.<br />

1393 The Ottomans occupy the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n capital Veliko<br />

Turnovo after a three-month siege.<br />

1396 The Kingdom of Vidin is occupied, bringing the Second<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Empire and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n independence to an end.<br />

14 th -18 th centuries By the end of the 14 th century, the<br />

Turks control all of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Ottoman rule continues for five<br />

centuries.<br />

18 th century The Age of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n National Revival begins.<br />

<strong>In</strong> spite of the resistance of the central Turkish authorities and<br />

the Greek clergy (the so-called phanariots), the struggle for an<br />

independent church, the publication of books and, later on, of<br />

periodicals in the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n language, the establishment of lay<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n schools and the official recognition of the language<br />

and culture, become real steps to the revival of the nation.<br />

One important landmark was the writing of the Slav-<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

History (1762) by monk Paissi of Hilendar.<br />

1876 <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n revolutionaries launch the April Uprising at<br />

Koprivshtitsa. The Turks suppress it with unprecedented<br />

brutality. About 15,000 <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are massacred at Plovdiv<br />

and 58 villages destroyed. Outraged European allies come to<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s rescue in the late 1870s. Russia, the chief saviour,<br />

suffers 200,000 casualties in the conflict.<br />

1877-1878 The Russian-Turkish war leads to the liberation<br />

of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> from the Ottoman Empire.<br />

March 1878 The Treaty of San Stefano provides for an<br />

independent <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n state, which spans the geographical<br />

regions of Moesia, Thrace and Macedonia.<br />

July 1878 The Treaty of Berlin, under the supervision of Otto<br />

von Bismarck of Germany and Benjamin Disraeli of Britain,<br />

splits <strong>Bulgaria</strong> into three parts: an independent Principality of<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> based in Sofia, the autonomous Ottoman province<br />

of Eastern Roumelia; and Macedonia, which remains under<br />

direct Ottoman rule.<br />

April 1879 The Turnovo Constitution is passed by the First<br />

Grand National Assembly.<br />

June 1879 Alexander Battenberg becomes prince of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>,<br />

and Sofia becomes the capital of the new <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n state.<br />

September 1885 Eastern Rumelia declares union with<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />

1887 A coup replaces Alexander Battenberg with Ferdinand<br />

of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.<br />

Recent History<br />

<strong>In</strong> June 2001, the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n monarchy makes an<br />

unprecedented comeback when former king Simeon II is<br />

elected prime minister. Unable to ease economics hardships<br />

for the majority, however, he too sees his popularity<br />

plummet after a few months in power. <strong>In</strong> the same<br />

election, the country’s Turkish minority is represented<br />

in the government for the first time, and the president<br />

encourages <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns to be more tolerant of Turkish-<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns. Progress continues under President Georgi<br />

Parvanov, albeit slower than most hope. Membership of<br />

NATO is granted in 2004, and entry into the European<br />

Union follows in 2007.<br />

July 27, 2005 the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Parliament chose Sergey<br />

Stanishev of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Socialist Party as the new<br />

Prime Minister in a coalition government with the Movement<br />

for Rights and Freedoms. August 15, 2005 the<br />

BSP and National Movement Simeon II formed a stable<br />

government, along with the Movement for Rights and<br />

Freedoms. This grand coalition comprises the three<br />

largest parties. This coalition has a large majority in<br />

parliament with 169 of the 240 deputies.<br />

September 1908 Ferdinand upgrades <strong>Bulgaria</strong> from principality<br />

to kingdom and declares himself Tsar.<br />

1912-1913 The Nationalist Prime Minister, Ivan Geshov,<br />

forms an alliance with Greece and Serbia to attack the<br />

Ottomans and to drive them out of Macedonia and Thrace.<br />

The Balkan Wars are sparking. The alliance soon fall out,<br />

with Greeks and Serbs expelling <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n forces from<br />

Macedonia, and then dividing up the spoils.<br />

1915-1918 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> joins the German side in World War I. A<br />

Serb-French-British offensive in Macedonia causes <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s<br />

collapse. Ferdinand abdicates in favour of son Boris III.<br />

1919 Elections are won by the Peasant party of Aleksandar<br />

Stamboliyski promising widespread social change.<br />

1923-1934 Democratically elected governments are<br />

toppled via coups that bring authoritarian regimes to<br />

power.<br />

1941 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> enters World War II on the side of the<br />

Rome-Berlin-Tokyo Axis. The country is the only ally of<br />

Hitler’s Germany which did not allow the killing of its Jewish<br />

citizens. It was thanks to king Boris III and to the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

governments that no hostilities are waged in the country’s<br />

territory.<br />

1944 After World War II, as a result of the Yalta agreements<br />

between the Great Powers, <strong>Bulgaria</strong> ends up in the field of<br />

influence of the Soviet Union.<br />

1953-1989 Years of the communist rule of Todor Zhivkov<br />

who headed both the party and the state.<br />

10 November 1989 Under pressure from domestic and<br />

international circumstances Todor Zhivkov is forced to<br />

resign. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> once again takes the road of democratic<br />

development.<br />

7 December 1989 The Union of Democratic Forces (SDS) is<br />

formed as a unification of 13 opposition organisations.<br />

June 1990 First free parliamentary elections.<br />

12 July 1991 A new democratic Constitution is passed.<br />

13 October 1991 First free local authorities elections.<br />

1992 First free presidential elections. Zhelyu Zhelev is<br />

elected head of state.<br />

3 November 1996 Petar Stoyanov, proposed by the SDS,<br />

is elected with President of the Republic of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> with a<br />

landslide majority.<br />

19 April 1997 The Parliamentary elections are won by the<br />

Democratic Forces United. A government is formed headed<br />

by Ivan Kostov as Prime-Minister. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> starts on the road<br />

of genuine democratic reforms.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


The history of Sofia,<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s capital and largest<br />

city, spans thousands<br />

of years from antiquity to<br />

modern times. Throughout its<br />

existence, the city has always<br />

been a commercial, industrial,<br />

cultural and economic centre<br />

of the Balkans region. Sofia<br />

has always been well known<br />

for its mineral resources,<br />

neighbouring mountains and<br />

historical sights.<br />

Antiquity<br />

Sofia is originally a Thracian settlement called Serdica,<br />

named after the Thracian tribe Serdi that had populated it.<br />

4 th century BC For a short period the city is possessed by<br />

Philip of Macedonia and his son Alexander the Great.<br />

29 AD Sofia is conquered by the Romans and renamed Ulpia<br />

Serdica. It becomes a municipium, or centre of an administrative<br />

region, during the reign of Emperor Trayan (98-117).<br />

447 The city is destroyed by the Huns, but is rebuilt by Byzantine<br />

Emperor Justinian and renamed Triaditsa. Although<br />

also often destroyed by the Slavs, the town remains under<br />

Byzantine dominion until 809.<br />

Middle Ages<br />

809 Sofia becomes part of the First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom during<br />

the reign of Khan Krum.<br />

1018 The city again falls to the Byzantine Empire.<br />

12 th -14 th centuries Sofia is a thriving centre of trade and<br />

crafts. It is renamed Sofia (meaning “wisdom” in Greek) in<br />

1376 after the Church of St Sophia. However, it is called both<br />

“Sofia” and “Sredets” until the 16th century, when the new<br />

name gradually replaced the old one.<br />

Ottoman rule<br />

1382 Sofia is conquered by the Ottoman sultan Murad I.<br />

Many Ottoman buildings emerge during the period. Very<br />

few of them have survived, including only a single mosque,<br />

Banya Bashi. The Ottoman rule saw a major demographic<br />

growth, as the city grew from a total population of 6,000<br />

(1620s) through 55,000 (middle 17 th century) to 70-80,000<br />

(18 th century data from foreign travellers, albeit possibly<br />

exaggerated).<br />

16 th century Sofia is a thriving trade centre inhabited by<br />

Turks, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, Romaniote, Ashkenazi, and Sephardic<br />

Jews, Armenians, Greeks and Ragusan merchants. During<br />

the next century the city’s population included even Albanians<br />

and Persians.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

<strong>In</strong>trodUC<strong>In</strong>G sofIa<br />

Mayor of Sofia<br />

Mr. Boyko Borissov is the leader of Sofia City and also unofficial<br />

leader of of the GERB party “Citizens for European<br />

Development of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>”. A no-nonsense figure hardly<br />

ever spotted with necktie. He today is without doubt the<br />

most popular person in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n politics. We owe him<br />

special thanks for the speedy reconstruction of the over<br />

trafficked Sofia ring road, soon to be THE place where<br />

local Porsche and Ferrari owners will put their pedal to the<br />

metal if no firm speed control measures are built-in.<br />

17 th century The Vatican establishes the Bishopric of Sofia<br />

for Ottoman subjects belonging to the Catholic millet in<br />

Rumelia, which existed until 1715 when most Catholics had<br />

emigrated to Habsburg or Tsarist territories.<br />

1878 Sofia is liberated by Russian forces in 1878, during the<br />

Russian-Turkish War (1877-1878)<br />

1879 The city becomes the capital of the autonomous<br />

Principality of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, which becomes Kingdom of <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

in 1908.<br />

1900 The City Council approves the emblem of Sofia and<br />

the motto “It Grows but Does not Age”.<br />

1925 The gravest act of terrorism in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n history, the<br />

St Nedelya Church assault, is carried out by the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Communist Party, claiming the lives of 150 and injuring<br />

another 500.<br />

World War II<br />

Sofia is bombed by Allied aircraft in late 1943 and early 1944,<br />

as well as later occupied by the Soviet Union.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s regime, which has allied the country with<br />

Nazi Germany, is overthrown and Sofia becomes capital<br />

of the Communist-ruled People’s Republic of <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

(1944–1989).<br />

Totalitarian regime<br />

(9 September 1944-10 November 1989) During the<br />

years of communism, Sofia becomes the nation’s major<br />

economic, academic and cultural centre. From its years<br />

of socialist growth, however, the capital inherited a great<br />

deal of problems, which are at present the priorities of the<br />

democratically - elected council of Sofia.<br />

1992 <strong>In</strong> honour of the celebration of St. Sofia the Martyr, the<br />

Government chose September 17 th as the Day of Sofia. The<br />

flag of Sofia Municipality is also consecrated on that day. The<br />

Day of Sofia is also celebrated like the Day of saints Vyara,<br />

Nadezhda and Lyubov.<br />

According to non official information nowadays Sofia has a<br />

population about 3 million people. Most of them come to the<br />

capital for work and business opportunities.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

9


10 KeeP<strong>In</strong>G <strong>In</strong> toUCH<br />

Couriers<br />

City Express C-3, ul. Gladston 58, tel. 912 12, www.<br />

city-express.com. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00.<br />

DHL G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakchiev 10, tel. 070 017 700.,<br />

sofcustcare@dhl.com, www.dhl.bg. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Direct F-7, ul. Rayna Knyaginya 7, tel. 928 98 98, direct@direct.bg,<br />

www.direct.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />

Flying Cargo <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd. (FedEx) G-9, ul. Nedelcho<br />

Bonchev 10, tel. 080 011 000, fax 973 13 66, www.flyingcargo-bg.com.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Time /UPS/ G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 41, tel. 960<br />

99, fax 960 98 99, intime@intime.bg, www.intime.bg.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Speedy D-3, bul. Cherni vrah 67, tel. 0 7001 7001,<br />

www.speedy.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 -<br />

14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Tip Top F-7, bul. Lomsko shose 35, tel. 936 99 99, fax<br />

936 98 10, tiptop@courier.bg, www.courier.bg. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />

TNT G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 35, tel. 070 011 666,<br />

fax 933 91 44, tnt.sales.bg@tnt.com, www.tnt.com/<br />

country/bg_bg.html. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternet cafes<br />

Garibaldi C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 989 42 85, info@<br />

garibaldicafe.net, www.garibaldicafe.net. Eighteen<br />

computers plus scanning, printing and low-rate international<br />

phone calls. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.<br />

Matritsata C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 70, www.ma3x.net.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.<br />

Site C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 986 08 96, info@siteout.<br />

net, www.siteout.net. Quiet, comfortable spot in a courtyard<br />

just off the street. Coffee and other drinks. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.<br />

Virtus C-2, ul. Han Asparuh 53, www.virtus.hit.bg.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.<br />

ISPs<br />

Bitex D-2, ul. William Gladstone 39, tel. 980 02 38,<br />

info@bitex.com, www.bitex.com. Dial-up services, wireless<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternet, leased lines, hosting, web design.<br />

CableTEL G-7, zh-k Lozenets, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 51A,<br />

tel. 480 01 11/0700 11 011, info@cabletel.bg, www.<br />

cabletel.bg. LAN and cable internet, IP telephony, cable and<br />

digital TV. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />

Digital Systems B-3, ul. Triaditsa 4, tel. 981 13 01,<br />

fax 980 68 89, office-sofia@digsys.bg, www.digsys.bg.<br />

Wireless network, cable internet, virtual private networks, IP<br />

telephony, web services.<br />

Megalan Network H-8, ul. Yordan Yosifov 4, Business<br />

cenre Mania, fl.1, tel. 0800 18 400/0800 20 400, info@<br />

megalan.bg, www.megalan.bg.<br />

Power Net B-1, ul. Ovche pole 122, fl.3, tel. 987 65<br />

43/0878 125 880, info@powernet.bg, www.powernet.<br />

bg. LAN and cable <strong>In</strong>ternet, free dial-up, web services.<br />

Spectrum Net G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 36, tel. 489 06<br />

00, info@spnet.net, www.spnet.net. All kinds of <strong>In</strong>ternet<br />

services.<br />

Mobile phones<br />

Globul Mladost-4, Business Park, building 6, tel.<br />

942 80 00, fax 942 80 10, CustomerCare@globul.bg,<br />

www.globul.bg. One of the main mobile operators. You<br />

can buy their b-connect pre-paid cards. For information tel.<br />

089 123.<br />

Free Wi-Fi zones W<br />

Sofia may not be the best place in the world, in terms of<br />

communication, but still the days of carrier pigeons are<br />

long gone. There are several free Wi-Fi zones in town:<br />

The park ”Gen. Vladimir Zaimov”, B-5<br />

The park “Doktorskata Gradinka”, B-5<br />

Central Bus Station, F-8<br />

Shopping Center “Tsentralni hali”, A-2<br />

NDK “Mostat na vlyubenite” (Lover’s Bridge), D-2<br />

Postal rates<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Europe USA & Others<br />

Postcards 0.35 Lv 1.00 Lv 1.40 Lv<br />

Letters 0.55 Lv 1.00 Lv 1.40 Lv<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n main city codes<br />

Blagoevgrad 73<br />

Burgas 56<br />

Dobrich 58<br />

Gabrovo 66<br />

Haskovo 38<br />

Yambol 46<br />

Kyustendil 78<br />

Lovech 68<br />

Pazardzhik 34<br />

Pernik 76<br />

Pleven 64<br />

Plovdiv 32<br />

Ruse 82<br />

Silistra 86<br />

Sliven 44<br />

Sofia 2<br />

Stara Zagora 42<br />

Varna 52<br />

V. Tarnovo 62<br />

Vidin 94<br />

Vratsa 92<br />

The above codes should be prefixed with 0 if dialing<br />

from inside <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational country codes<br />

Austria 43<br />

Belgium 32<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> 359<br />

Croatia 385<br />

Czech Rep. 420<br />

Denmark 45<br />

Finland 358<br />

France 33<br />

Germany 49<br />

Greece 30<br />

Hungary 36<br />

Ireland 353<br />

Israel 972<br />

Italy 39<br />

Japan 61<br />

Macedonia 389<br />

Netherlands 31<br />

Norway 47<br />

Poland 48<br />

Portugal 351<br />

Romania 40<br />

Russia 7<br />

Serbia 381<br />

Slovenia 386<br />

Spain 34<br />

Sweden 46<br />

Switzerland 41<br />

Turkey 90<br />

UK 44<br />

USA/Canada 1<br />

The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing<br />

from inside <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n resort codes<br />

Albena 579<br />

Balchik 579<br />

Bansko 749<br />

Borovets 750<br />

Golden sands 52<br />

Nessebar 554<br />

Pamporovo 3095<br />

Sozopol 550<br />

St. St. Konstantin<br />

and Elena 52<br />

Sunny beach 554<br />

The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing<br />

from inside <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


MTel ul. Kukush 1, tel. 0888 088 088, fax 0888 500<br />

885, customerservice@mobiltel.bg, www.mtel.bg. Another<br />

major mobile operator. They sell prepaid cards for the<br />

Prima network, available at most kiosks and shops.<br />

Vivatel C-1, bul. Totleben 8, tel. 087 123, www.vivatel.<br />

bg. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s third mobile phone operator, started in 2005.<br />

Phone rental<br />

<strong>In</strong>trafonica <strong>Bulgaria</strong> near Sofia <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport,<br />

tel. 49 13 330, customer.service@intrafonica.com,<br />

www.intrafonica.com. Short- to mid-term GSM cell phone<br />

rentals, local SIM cards and Mobile <strong>In</strong>ternet services delivered<br />

via GPRS, thus avoiding inflated roaming rates and incoming<br />

call charges. Rental packages are delivered either to your<br />

hotel or to alternative address of your choice. Orders online<br />

available. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Post<br />

Central Post Office B-3, ul. Gurko 6, tel. 980 12<br />

25, www.bgpost.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:00<br />

- 13:00.<br />

T Post H-8, Mladost 4, Business Park Sofia, tel. 489<br />

81 60, www.tpost-bg.com. First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n private post.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Pre-paid mobile service<br />

Frog mobile , www.frogmobile.bg. Take your starter pack<br />

and vouchers at a kiosk near you or from a store from the<br />

trade network of Globul. By dialing 1212 from your mobile<br />

number or +359891212 from any fixed or mobile telephone<br />

you get connected to the Customer Care Center.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

KeeP<strong>In</strong>G <strong>In</strong> toUCH<br />

Petrol mobile. Take your starter pack and vouchers at<br />

Petrol oil stations all over the country. For more information call<br />

333 (for Petrol mobile owners only) or 098 8733333 .<br />

Public telephones<br />

BTC Centre B-3, ul. Gurko 4. You can make international<br />

calls from the metered cabins and pay the cashier on the<br />

way out. Also <strong>In</strong>ternet access available. QOpen 00:00 -<br />

24:00.<br />

Planetphone B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 18B, tel. 980 28<br />

75, planetphone@planetphone.net, www.planetphone.<br />

net. Cheap international calls. QOpen 9:30 - 22:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 20:00.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

11


12 CUltUre & events<br />

If you can manage to tear yourself away from the fashion<br />

and sport channels to which the TVs in Sofia’s cafes and<br />

bars seem permanently tuned, there is a huge amount of<br />

high-quality culture awaiting your enjoyment. Tickets for<br />

all events are extremely affordable by western standarts,<br />

so there’s really no excuse for giving such a rich cultural<br />

menu a miss.<br />

Art galleries<br />

Art Gallery Paris B-4, ul. Parizh 8, tel. 980 80 93, info@<br />

gallery-paris.com, www.gallery-paris.com. Charming little<br />

gallery representing younger-generation <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n artists,<br />

especially those working in expressive, figurative styles.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

Galeria Akademia B-4, ul. Shipka 1, tel. 987 81 77.<br />

Prestige group shows in the gallery of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Academy<br />

of Fine Arts. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.<br />

Goethe-<strong>In</strong>stitut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939<br />

01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www.<br />

goethe.de/sofia. Challenging and off-beat contemporary<br />

art shows, in the German cultural centre. QOpen , Mon,<br />

Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

GreenCat Gallery C-5, ul. Varbiza 6, tel. 0886 154<br />

526, n.maneva@greencatgallery.com, www.greencatgallery.com.<br />

Krug + B-4, ul. Budapeshta 5, tel. 988 25 79. Cuttingedge<br />

work in one of Sofia’s coolest spaces. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Lessedra D-3, ul. Milin kamak 25, tel. 865 04 28,<br />

georgi@lessedra.com, www.lessedra.com. Dealership<br />

with contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and international art<br />

on show. Specializes in prints and graphics, with a good<br />

selection of items for sale. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Maksim B-2, ul. Lom 11, tel. 988 10 62. Contemporary<br />

work by leading <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n painters and sculptors, in a<br />

beautiful split-level space. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Rakursi C-3, ul. Han Krum 4A, tel. 981 26 17, gallery@<br />

rakursi.com, www.rakursi.com. Small private gallery<br />

specializing in contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n art, representing sizeable<br />

stable of established and emerging artists. Extensive<br />

collection of paintings, graphics, photographs and sculptures<br />

at all prices. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Sculpture park G-8, ul. Aleksandur Zhendov 2, tel.<br />

948 20 36, culturalinstitute@mfa.government.bg,<br />

www.sic.mfa.government.bg. <strong>In</strong> the Sculpture park outside<br />

the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, over 90 works created<br />

by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n sculptors from the 1930’s until the present<br />

days, are displayed along with other monuments. QOpen<br />

Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />

Shipka 6 B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 846 71 13, fax 946 02<br />

12, info@sbhart.com, www.sbhart.com. Located in the<br />

upper storeys of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Artists’ Union building, this<br />

hosts a wide variety of shows by artists from <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and<br />

beyond. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Sibank Galeria B-3, ul. Slavyanska 2, tel. 939 92 80.<br />

Tucked away behind the National Theatre in the headquarters<br />

of a major bank, this gallery concentrates on big names<br />

from the contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n art world. Expect the kind<br />

of head-scratching installations and conceptual works that<br />

are in short supply elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,<br />

Sun 15:00 - 19:00.<br />

Tea E-2, ul. Dimitar Hadzhikotsev 10, tel. 865 84 26.<br />

Contemporary paintings for sale, and frequent one-off exhibitions<br />

by the more off-the-wall artists. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n symbol<br />

Tsarevets - Kings On The Hill<br />

The hill of Tsarevets is a famous landmark in Veliko Tarnovo<br />

and one of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n symbols. It holds the memory for<br />

the capital of the Second <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom and the great<br />

Tsar Kaloyan. Within its stone walls used to be the castle<br />

of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n kings, his “bolyari” (who were the nobles,<br />

next to the king) and the patriarch, who was the head of<br />

the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n church. Only one of its towers remains to this<br />

day. It is called the Tower of Baldwin the First (no connection<br />

with the notorious brothers) because the Latin Emperor<br />

was held prisoner there and found his death, by jumping<br />

from it, as the legend says. He fell captive after the big<br />

battle of Adrianople in 1205 when Tsar Kaloyan defeated<br />

the knights of the Fourth Crusade.<br />

The ruins of Tsarevets reveal a densely inhabited medieval<br />

city with numerous buildings of various purposes.<br />

Some parts of it have been restored, including the church<br />

“Ascension of Christ”, which crowns the top of the hill.<br />

To commemorate the glory of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom, a<br />

spectacular “Sound And Light” show with colourful lights,<br />

lasers and music is held on a regular basis. It presents<br />

the different periods in the history of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and is a<br />

unique experience for tourists and locals.<br />

The Hill of Tsarevets is open for visitors from 08:00 to<br />

19:00 from April to September and from 09:00 to 17:00<br />

from October to March. The local historical museum offers<br />

guided tours in English, French, German, Russian, Spanish<br />

and Greek Language. For <strong>In</strong>formation and reservations<br />

call: 062 638 841, 0885 105 282, 0885 105 275. Admission<br />

fee is 6Lv, the guided tour is 30Lv.<br />

photo Regional Historical Museum V.Tarnovo<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


The Red House (Chervenata kashta) C-4, ul. Lyuben<br />

Karavelov 15, tel. 988 81 88, info@redhouse-sofia.org,<br />

www.redhouse-sofia.org. An early twentieth-century mansion<br />

now serving as a cutting-edge cultural centre for Sofia’s<br />

arty set. There’s a meaty menu of exhibitions, small-scale<br />

concerts, video screenings and drama. QOpen 15:00 -<br />

19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Cinemas<br />

Arena Zapad F-7, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 64, tel. 920<br />

99 99, www.kinoarena.com. Biggest of the multiplexes,<br />

with 15 screens, on-site pizzeria, ice cream parlour and more.<br />

Near the Vardar metro station. Another branch at H-8, Mladost-4,<br />

Business Park Sofia. Q (7-12Lv). PK<br />

Cinema City B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101, tel.<br />

981 19 11, fax 981 57 77, marketing@cinemacity.bg,<br />

www.cinemacity.bg. State-of-the-art multiscreen in the Mall<br />

of Sofia shopping complex, surrounded by fast-food outlets<br />

and other places to spend your money. Also includes the Mtel<br />

Imax cinema, where you can sit back in your 3-D spectacles<br />

and have your brain scrambled by the twenty-four-metre-wide<br />

screen. Q (7-12Lv). P<br />

Cineplex D-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 964 30 07, www.<br />

cineplex.bg. Nine-screen cinema on the top floor of the City<br />

Center Sofia shopping mall. Not too far from the city centre,<br />

and with loads of eating and drinking opportunities in the mall<br />

itself. Q (6-12Lv). P<br />

Euro Cinema B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17, tel.<br />

980 41 61, fx_cin@hotmail.com. Well-chosen menu of classy<br />

European flicks and non-mainstream choices. Q (4-5Lv).<br />

House of Cinema (Dom na kinoto) A-3, ul. Ekzarh<br />

Yosif 37, tel. 980 39 11. This is the place for the real movie<br />

buffs. If it won a prize at an obscure European festival, it will<br />

probably be shown here. Q (6-7 Lv).<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

CUltUre & events<br />

Ticket offices<br />

National Palace of Culture D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel.<br />

916 63 69. QOpen 8:00 – 19:00<br />

Orange music store B-3, Orange Center, 2nd floor,<br />

ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 985 41 41, orangemusic@<br />

netbg.com. Qopen 9:00 – 21:00<br />

Ticketstream B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 981 38<br />

59, www.ticketstream.bg. QOpen: 9:30 – 18:00<br />

Kino Vlaykova C-5, ul. Tsar Ivan Asen 11, tel. 944 39<br />

23. An old-fashioned, single-screen cinema in the leafy Ivan<br />

Asen district, screening a mixture of art films and Hollywood<br />

flicks. The cinema’s bar also serves as local pub and snooker<br />

hall. Q (3-5Lv).<br />

Odeon C-1, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 989 24 69. Showing<br />

old movies and nothing else, this is a great place to sit<br />

back and enjoy a big-screen nostalgia-fest. Q (4-6 Lv).<br />

Music, opera and ballet<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Hall (Zala <strong>Bulgaria</strong>) B-3, ul. Aksakov 1, tel.<br />

987 76 56. Home of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n philharmonic, this is the<br />

top place in the country for symphonic concerts. QOpen .<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. Open 10:30-13:00, 15:00-18:00 Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Music Centre Boris Hristov B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 43,<br />

tel. 987 35 92, boris_chrisoff@abv. The house of the<br />

famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n opera singer is an art centre housing a<br />

rich museum collection as well as a stage for young talents -<br />

musicians, opera singers, artists, actors. A spacious concert<br />

hall is arranged with a gorgeous grand piano. QOpen 11:00<br />

- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

13


14 CUltUre & events<br />

National Musical Theatre B-5, ul. Panayot Volov 2,<br />

tel. 944 50 85, fax 944 13 42, operetta@otel.net, www.<br />

musictheatre.bg. Best known for operetta and musicals,<br />

but occasionally features dance performances too. QOpen<br />

08:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Tickets: tel. 943 19 79<br />

National Opera and Ballet B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel.<br />

987 13 66, fax 980 91 22, sfopera@geobiz.net, www.<br />

operasofia.bg. The jewel in Sofia’s cultural crown, featuring<br />

the best local artistes and guesting prima donnas from<br />

abroad. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00.<br />

Tickets: tel. 987 13 66<br />

National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets<br />

na kulturata - NDK) D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 916 68<br />

30, fax 865 70 53, drumev@ndk.bg, www.ndk.bg.<br />

Mammoth-sized cultural centre with a 3800-seater main<br />

hall and numerous smaller concert spaces. Hosts all kinds of<br />

high-profile musical events. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />

Sun. Tickets: tel. 916 63 69<br />

National Opera and Ballet<br />

January<br />

08.01 19:00 Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme<br />

09.01 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />

10.01 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />

11.01 16:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />

18.01 16:00 Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme<br />

23.01 19:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />

19:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />

Scheherazade<br />

24.01 19:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />

19:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />

Scheherazade<br />

25.01 16:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />

16:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />

Scheherazade<br />

29.01 19:00 M.Theodorakis ballet Zorba the Greek<br />

30.01 19:00 Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme<br />

31.01 19:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />

19:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />

Scheherazade<br />

February<br />

13.02 19:00 100 years from the establishment of<br />

the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Opera Fellowship<br />

14.02 19:00 <strong>In</strong> the embrace of the cello concert<br />

of Svetlozar Radukanov<br />

15.02 16:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake<br />

Theatres<br />

Aleko Konstantinov Satirical Theatre (Satirichen<br />

teatar) B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 26, tel. 987 66 06, satirata@slovo.bg.<br />

Comedies both classical and modern.<br />

Beyond the Canal (Malak gradski teatar “Zad<br />

kanala”) G-8, bul. Madrid 1, tel. 846 20 20, mgt@abv.<br />

bg, www.theatreoffthechannel.org. Studio theatre offering<br />

anything from small-scale contemporary productions to film<br />

projections and jazz gigs.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Army Theatre (Teatar Bulgarska<br />

armiya) B-4, ul. Rakovski 98, tel. 987 23 03, tba@<br />

art.bg, www.art.bg/tba. High quality classical and contemporary<br />

drama.<br />

Ivan Vazov National Theatre (Naroden teatar)<br />

B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 5, tel. 811 92 19, fax 987 70<br />

66, info@nationaltheatre.bg, www.nationaltheatre.bg.<br />

Sofia’s grandest thespians tread the boards.<br />

17.02 19:00 Gala performance - 75 years from<br />

the birth of the singer Stoyan Popov<br />

18.02 16:00 Coppélia ballet in two acts<br />

19.02 19:00 Coppélia ballet in two acts<br />

26.02 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake<br />

March<br />

07:03 19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />

08.03 16:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />

10.03 19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />

12.03 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Sleeping<br />

Beauty<br />

13.03 19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />

15.03 16:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />

20.03 19:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco<br />

21.03 19:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco<br />

22.03 16:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco<br />

25-28.03 10:00, 11:30, 19:00<br />

Shegobishko on the Wonders Island<br />

(Child education program)<br />

29.03 16:00 Miroslav Danev ballet Legend for<br />

Sibin, the knyaz of Preslav<br />

Performances take place at National Opera and Ballet<br />

B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel. 987 13 66. More info at www.<br />

operasofia.bg<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns<br />

Khan Krum-The Sober And The Merciless. The<br />

name of Khan Krum evokes national pride and fear in the<br />

delinquent ones. He started his rule in the year 803 with a<br />

serious territorial enlargement, adding Transylvania to the<br />

lands of the First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom. Feeling threatened<br />

by the ambitious neighbours, the Byzantine Emperor<br />

Nicephorus I started two consecutive campaigns against<br />

Khan Krum. Declining all peace offers by the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Khan, he conquered and pillaged Krum’s capital Pliska,<br />

drowning <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n lands in blood. However, his triumph<br />

was pretty short, because on the way back to Constantinople<br />

in the summer of year 811, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns and Slavs,<br />

led by Khan Krum himself, ambushed and vanquished<br />

the Byzantine army. The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n ruler spared all prisoners<br />

and sent them back to their families. Nicephorus<br />

I was not as lucky, because he died at the beginning of<br />

the battle and ended up on the kitchen shelf, as Khan<br />

Krum made a cup of his skull, and used it extensively for<br />

proposing toasts at glorious court parties. What did he<br />

pour into the cup is unknown, as he was a really mean<br />

sobriety activist - he destroyed all the vine plants in his<br />

lands. He also cut the tongues of liars and broke the<br />

shinbones of the thieves. These rules were carved in<br />

stone and obeyed by both Slavs and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, and are<br />

recognized as the first written legislation in the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Kingdom and also the first serious step in the unification<br />

of the two major <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n ethnic groups. Khan Krum<br />

also made a new administrative division of the kingdom<br />

and took away Thracia’s sovereignty. Krum died from a<br />

heart attack in 814 under the walls of Constantinople,<br />

but first he pillaged the European part of the Byzantine<br />

Empire and tortured the capital’s citizens with all types<br />

of siege weapons and the good old shock of public and<br />

pagan human sacrifices.<br />

Ralitsa Vassileva-Those Blue<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Eyes. If you have<br />

ever watched CNN, you know for<br />

sure who Ralitsa Vassileva is. The<br />

blue-eyed news reporter with a<br />

name too hard to pronounce, has<br />

been on air for seventeen years<br />

already. Most of you may not know<br />

it, but she is from Sofia and started<br />

working as a news anchor in 1992,<br />

two years after she started working<br />

as a reporter for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n National<br />

Television. She has interviewed numerous celebrities and<br />

important politicians, among which Mikhail Gorbachev<br />

and Henry Kissinger. Watching a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n present the<br />

world news has always made us <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns feel a little<br />

better and important.<br />

Sfumato Theatre Workshop (Teatralna rabotilnitsa<br />

Sfumato) G-8, ul. Dimitar Grekov 2, tel. 944 01<br />

27, fax 943 39 35, sfumato@mbox.contact.bg, www.<br />

sfumato.info. On-the-edge experimental theatre from an<br />

internationally renowned company.<br />

Tears and Laughter (Salza i smyah) B-4, ul. Rakovski<br />

127, tel. 987 58 95, fax 987 36 14, office@salzaismiah.<br />

com, www.salzaismiah.com. Quality, often challenging work<br />

from Sofia’s oldest drama company.<br />

Theatre 199 B-4, ul. Slavyanska 8, tel. 987 85 33, fax<br />

988 53 19, theatre199@infotel.bg, www.theatre199.<br />

org. Top place for contemporary studio performances. Gets<br />

the name from its 199 seats.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

CUltUre & events<br />

The Martenitsa – Celebrating<br />

Spring <strong>In</strong> Red And White<br />

The first day of March marks<br />

the beginning of the colourfull<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n tradition of<br />

wearing martenitsas. These<br />

decorative tassels are worn<br />

by old and young, men and<br />

women and even animals.<br />

It is believed that they bring<br />

good health and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns<br />

wear them from the first of March, until a stork or a swallow<br />

is seen, and then the martenitsa should be tied to a blossoming<br />

tree. They are traditionally red and white, as the<br />

colour white symbolizes purity and the soul and red stands<br />

for life and passion, but all other additional colours are fully<br />

acceptable as a further decoration. Generally, even a Mickey<br />

Mouse pin with the red and white tassels is considered<br />

a martenitsa, but the traditional one is just with the two<br />

tassels, named Pizho and Penda. The legend traces the<br />

origins of the martenitsas to the founder of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, khan<br />

Asparuh and his brothers and sisters, who communicated<br />

with threads, tied to the legs of falcons. As Asparuh’s brother<br />

Bayan was sending a bird, he got mortally wounded and his<br />

blood stained the white thread, making it the first ever martenitsa,<br />

which was given by the khan to his soldiers.<br />

As usual, all friends, relatives and colleagues present<br />

each other martenitsas on March 1 st by saying“ Chestita<br />

Baba Marta”, as the first month of spring is believed<br />

to be a grumpy old woman with wild mood swings, just<br />

as the weather in March. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns wear them all over<br />

the world and you can wear them too, if you want to be<br />

healthier this spring.<br />

Name days<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, one’s name day is considered as important as<br />

a birthday. It is customary to buy treats for family members<br />

and colleagues. Take note of the dates below and ingratiate<br />

yourself with any <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns you meet by buying them a<br />

shot of rakia on their name day. Either that, or exploit your<br />

own by getting lashings of free drinks from your friends and<br />

acquaintances. When in Rome and all that.<br />

• 1st January – Vasilyovden - Vasil, Vasilena, Veselin,<br />

Vasko, Vesela<br />

• 6th January – Yordanovden (St. Jordan’s day) – Yordan,<br />

Yordanka, Dancho, Danka, Bozhan, Bozhana, Dana,<br />

Bogdan, Bogdana.<br />

• 7th January – Ivanovden - Ivan, Ivanka, Vanya, Yoan,<br />

Yoana, Yova, Zhan, Zhana<br />

• 17th January – Antonovden – Anton, Andon, Antoniya,<br />

Toncho, Tonka<br />

• 18th January – Atanasovden - Atanas, Atanaska,<br />

Tanas, Naso, Nasya<br />

• 1st February – Trifonovden - Trifon, Trifonka<br />

• 10th February- St. Haralampi – Haralampi, Valentin,<br />

Valentina<br />

• 13th February – Evlogi, Zoya<br />

• 1st March – Marta, Martin, Evdokia<br />

• 4th March – Gerasim<br />

• 9th March -The Holy 40th Martyrs - Mladen, Mladenka<br />

• 10th March – Galya, Galin, Galina<br />

• 19th March – Daria, Nayden, Nayda<br />

• 25th March – Blagoveshtenie (the Annunciation) – Blagovest,<br />

Blagovesta, Blagoy, Blaga, Evangelina, Vangel<br />

• 28th March – Albena, Boyan, Boyko, Boyka<br />

January - March 2009<br />

15


16 CUltUre & events<br />

Rock and pop<br />

Turn up the heat with some blistering guitar riffs and<br />

pounding thrash metal drums. The biggest names of<br />

extreme metal music are coming our way, along with some<br />

pop, love and progressive rockers…<br />

31.01 Samael, Keep of Kalessin, Noctiferia<br />

Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 30-35Lv<br />

Discover the darkest essence of evil music with these cult<br />

Black Metal Bands from Switzerland and Norway. Just don’t<br />

go burning churches, because in Sofia they are made of<br />

stone and are well guarded.<br />

06.02 Live From Buena Vista<br />

The Havana Lounge – Sofia, NDK Hall 1<br />

tickets: 20-70Lv<br />

We really doubt that any of the original Buena Vista Social<br />

Club is still alive, but the name, or should we call it “a<br />

brand” still sells, so if you are a sucker for Cuban music,<br />

it is your show.<br />

Sveti Trifon (St. Trifon)<br />

Sveti Trifon (St. Trifon) is known as the patron of the vineyards<br />

all over the Balkans . The holiday originates from the<br />

Dionisian Celebrations in ancient Greece. Early in the<br />

morning every wine-grower goes to his vineyard, turns to the<br />

east and makes the sign of the cross. Afterwards he cuts<br />

three sprigs from three different vines and waters the spot<br />

with wine, holy water and ash, kept from the Christmas fire.<br />

It is done for ensuring a rich harvest. These sprigs are kept<br />

in front of the icon in the house. <strong>In</strong> the evening all the men of<br />

the village sit together around the ritual table in the vineyards<br />

06.02 Sepultura<br />

Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 35Lv<br />

Anyone who has ever listened to metal music knows this<br />

name. The titans from Brazil are still strong, even without<br />

the Cavalera Brothers, who left the band to do whatever<br />

they want. We don’t care. The two new guys, along with<br />

the two original guitar players are still too good and heavy<br />

to be true. Tickets are limited…<br />

07.02 Sodom and Grave Digger<br />

Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv<br />

These ancient German thrash metallers have been torturing<br />

our ears and touring the world for almost 30 years. They<br />

sur vived hard trends and hard times, but will you survive<br />

their show along with the heroic power metal band Grave<br />

Digger?<br />

08.02 Kreator, Caliban, Eluveitie, Emergency Gate<br />

Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 35-45Lv<br />

Not enough Metal? Finish the triple thrash metal treat with<br />

the German veterans Kreator, who are as old as the Creator<br />

himself. See them play some classic German headbanging<br />

tunes along with the powerful youngsters Caliban. Then go<br />

sleep or see the doctor for your pierced eardrums.<br />

12.02 The Rasmus<br />

Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 30-40Lv<br />

These platinum-selling Finnish pop-rockers will show you the<br />

sensitive side of playing heavy music. Especially suitable<br />

for girls in black make up who love boys in black make up.<br />

And eagle feathers…<br />

21.02 Marillion<br />

Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 30-50Lv<br />

This classic progressive rock band from Britain will spread<br />

its artful sounds and messages in our capital. Although<br />

their enigmatic leader Fish is no longer in the band, they<br />

still can play tight and good.<br />

22.02 James Blunt<br />

Sofia, NDK Hall 1 tickets: 40-70Lv<br />

See if you are more beautiful than this best selling<br />

breakthrough artist. His sensitive songs will melt even the<br />

coldest hearts, so if anyone had any “love problems” around<br />

Christmas, then a ticket for this show should straighten<br />

them out for good.<br />

06.03 Lordi<br />

Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv<br />

After winning the Eurovision, these monstrous masked rockers<br />

from Finland will try to scare or please you with their metal<br />

sound. Just don’t bring little kids and grannies at this show.<br />

and celebrate the day with lots of wine. <strong>In</strong> some regions the<br />

men dig a hole in the middle of the the vineyard and bury a<br />

bottle of holy water in it for prevention of hailstorms.<br />

Nowadays the feast is also known as “Trifon the Drunkard”<br />

because of the large quantity of wine being drunk that day.<br />

It is celebrated mainly on 14 th February, although some<br />

people celebrate it on 1 st February according to the old<br />

calendar. But, of course, there are people celebrating the<br />

drinkers’ holiday on both of the days – the more holidays,<br />

the better.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Exhibitions<br />

The exhibition “The Cultural Revolution – A Road To<br />

Socialism, Russian Architectural Avant-garde in the<br />

1920s – 1930s” is in the National Gallery of Foreign<br />

Art from 05.11.2008 to 20.01.2009<br />

Until the 20th of January, you will have the last chance<br />

to see a very interesting exhibition in the National Gallery<br />

of Foreign Art. It consists of 119 different projects,<br />

blueprints, sketches, paintings and pictures, presenting<br />

the avant-garde of Russian Soviet architecture from the<br />

beginning of the 20th century, namely the twenties, just<br />

after the October revolution. Although the purpose of<br />

such megalomaniac building was to praise communism,<br />

some ideas and concepts are timeless and important,<br />

outside the political doctrine. Some of these projects<br />

remained on the architect’s desk, but others were built<br />

and will be there in the next two thousand years.<br />

The exhibition, named “I do not seek, I find - Pablo<br />

Picasso” is in the National Gallery of Foreign Art from<br />

17.11.2008 to 15.03.2009<br />

Some painters have become a symbol and an epitome<br />

of art, becoming immortal with their work. Such a symbol<br />

of modern art is Pablo Picasso, who is among the best<br />

and most famous people to pick a brush (and not only<br />

since he used all types of art expression). You can never<br />

be mistaken if you visit an exhibition of his works and fortunately,<br />

here in Sofia, the National Gallery of Foreign Art<br />

hosts a display of 86 works by this enigmatic superstar<br />

artist. 44 of these are graphics, 18 are ceramics and 24<br />

are paintings and prints. The most famous is the “Portrait<br />

of Paul” – his first born son. These works of art, being it<br />

crooked, strange to grasp, or just pure genius come from<br />

museums and private collections in Spain and will be on<br />

display until the 15th of March.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

CUltUre & events<br />

January - March 2009<br />

17


18 WHere to stay<br />

Sofia’s accommodation scene has been transformed by<br />

a rash of hotel building in recent years, and there is now<br />

a big choice in all categories. The advertised star ratings<br />

are reasonably accurate guide to quality in most cases,<br />

although they don’t always mean that all the rooms in<br />

particular establishment are up to the stated standard.<br />

Hotels invariably list their prices in euros, although you can<br />

pay the equivalent rate in leva if you wish.<br />

Cream of the crop<br />

Grand Hotel Sofia B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 811 08 00,<br />

fax 811 08 01, reservations@grandhotelsofia.bg, www.<br />

grandhotelsofia.bg. Quality writ large. It is bang in the middle<br />

of town - on the doorstep of the National Theatre, the City Art<br />

Gallery, within walking distance from the <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Concert Hall<br />

and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The staff are professional<br />

from top to bottom, the rooms are huge, and the classy<br />

furnishings are built to last rather than just look good. The<br />

spacious bathrooms come with both bathtub and shower. The<br />

ground-floor Grand Cafe, facing out towards the City Garden,<br />

serves up some spectacular cakes. Q122 rooms (52 singles<br />

€150 - 235, 53 doubles €180 - 265, 17 suites €230 - 585).<br />

PTHARUFLEGKDW hhhhh<br />

Hilton D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 933 50 00, fax 933 51<br />

11, reservations.sofia@hilton.com, www.sofia.hilton.<br />

com. Enduringly popular choice with visiting businessfolk,<br />

with a handily central location and the attention-to-detail<br />

service that you would expect from the chain. Rooms come<br />

in a soothing combination of blues, yellows and greens, and<br />

the generously-proportioned bathrooms feature both shower<br />

cabin and bathtub (so you can wash yourself twice at the<br />

same time!). Guests have free use of pool and gym, and all<br />

rooms come with coffee and tea-making facilities. Q245<br />

rooms (singles €168 - 312, doubles €310 - 332, suites €486<br />

- 1200). PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh<br />

Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Sofia H-8, bul. Aleksandar Malinov 111,<br />

tel. 807 07 07, fax 807 07 08, info@holidayinnsofia.<br />

bg, www.holidayinnsofia.bg. Dependable standards of<br />

5-star comfort and service from an experienced chain.<br />

Rooms feature flat-screen TVs, wireless internet and<br />

bathrooms with separate bath and shower. Located near<br />

the Mladost business park it’s a popular choice for business<br />

folk, and the centre of town is only a 20-minute taxi<br />

ride away. <strong>In</strong>ternational cuisine in the all-day Brasserie and<br />

<strong>In</strong>Canto restaurant provide excuses to linger on-site, as do<br />

the fully-equipped gym and 19-metre swimming pool. The<br />

range of conference facilities on offer make this a choice<br />

venue for hard-headed get-togethers. Q130 rooms<br />

(singles €70 - 115, doubles €90 - 135, suites €160 - 175).<br />

PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh<br />

Kempinski Hotel Zografski G-7, bul. Dzheims<br />

Baucher 100, tel. 969 22 22, fax 969 22 23, kempinski.zografski@kempinski.com,<br />

www.kempinski.bg.<br />

Five-star comforts can be taken for granted here, although<br />

the hulking, high-rise nature of the place will not suit those<br />

who want a cosy intimate retreat. Rooms are currently<br />

decorated in onyx-blue and green, although some floors<br />

are being gradually refitted in beige. Now part of a German<br />

chain, the Zografski was originally built by Japanese investors<br />

in the 1980s, and you’ll still find a few uniquely oriental<br />

touches here - notably the Japanese garden centered on<br />

the pavilion-style Sakura restaurant. Q442 rooms (90<br />

singles €260, 90 doubles €280, 15 suites €410 - 430, 1<br />

Presidential apartment €1920 - 1940, 2 Vice Presidential<br />

apartments €970 - 990, 244 Double delux €300 - 320).<br />

PHARFLKDC hhhhh<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

O Casino H Conference facilities<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms<br />

K Restaurant M Nearest metro station<br />

D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection<br />

Radisson SAS Grand Hotel B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie<br />

4, tel. 933 43 34, fax 933 43 35, info.sofia@radissonsas.<br />

com, www.sofia.radissonsas.com. Occupying the prime<br />

site opposite <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s parliament and the Aleksandar Nevski<br />

Memorial Church, the Radisson offers the kind of understated<br />

luxury that the chain is famous for: soothing colours, deepmattressed<br />

beds, classy marble-floored bathrooms (featuring<br />

both bathtub and shower), and electric kettles in every room.<br />

Standard rooms on the south side of the building are perfectly<br />

adequate, but it’s the business class doubles and junior suites<br />

on the north side that come with fabulous views of Narodno sabranie<br />

square. Notwithstanding the surrounding nightlife (both<br />

Flannnagans Pub and the London Casino are on the ground floor<br />

of the same building), the hotel itself is nicely quiet. Q133<br />

rooms (singles €130 - 205, doubles €156 - 220, suites €260 -<br />

290). POHARUFLGKDW hhhhh<br />

Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya<br />

5, tel. 981 65 41, fax 980 64 64, sofia.reservations@<br />

luxurycollection.com, www.luxurycollection.com/sofia.<br />

Sofia’s longest-established luxury hotel, and part of the<br />

Sheraton chain for a decade and a half, this urban landmark in<br />

the heart of downtown Sofia combines traditional five-star frills<br />

with high-tech amenities. The building itself is a showpiece of<br />

1950s architectural style, featuring sweeping staircases, long<br />

and spacious corridors, and chandeliers on every floor. “Classic”<br />

rooms are contemporary in style with blue and orange decor<br />

and classy bathrooms. “Executive” rooms boast near-antique<br />

furniture, flat-screen TVs and coffee-and-tea-making facilities.<br />

Spacious ground-floor lobby areas and a chic cafe-restaurant<br />

provide the icing on the cake. Q188 rooms (singles €310<br />

- 355, doubles €320 - 370, apartments €420 - 435). PO�<br />

HARUFLGKDW hhhhh<br />

Upmarket<br />

Anel B-2, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 14, tel. 911 99 00, fax<br />

911 97 61, hotelanel@hotelanel.com, www.hotelanel.<br />

com. if you want to stay in a top-class hotel, which has more<br />

character than the international chains, then this modern<br />

building on the fringes of downtown Sofia just about fits<br />

the bill. It’s stuffed to the gills with contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

paintings and sculptures and has the feel of a top international<br />

gallery when you first cross the threshold. The rooms<br />

themselves come in bold blues and browns, and there’s an<br />

exotic on-site Spa centre with a water-surrounded café-bar approached<br />

by bridge. Q58 rooms (8 singles €270, 31 doubles<br />

€290, 18 apartments €320 - 370, 1 Presidential apartment).<br />

PTHARUFGKDCW hhhhh<br />

Art ‘Otel C-2, ul. Gladston 44, tel. 980 60 00, fax 981 19<br />

09, office@artotel.biz, www.artotel.biz. A joint <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-<br />

Spanish project occupying a re-vamped 1930s apartment block.<br />

Fine textures, unusual shapes, leather furniture, fireplaces and a<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


smattering of contemporary paintings justify the hotel’s name.<br />

Just a block away from bul. Vitosha, the location is as central as<br />

they come, and some rooms on the upper storeys come with<br />

excellent roof-level views of the surrounding cityscape. Q22<br />

rooms (5 singles €105 - 145, 10 doubles €110 - 150, 3 suites<br />

€155 - 160). PHARLKD hhhh<br />

Best Western Hotel City B-4, ul. Stara planina 6, tel.<br />

915 15 00, fax 986 20 00, info@sofiacityhotel.com,<br />

www.sofiacityhotel.com. Relatively new structure with spacious<br />

modern rooms, and the range of services that you would<br />

expect from a four-star. Rooms are smart and shipshape and<br />

the staff members are eager to please. And it couldn’t be<br />

better placed for Sofia’s historical centre. Q61 rooms (10<br />

singles €119, 42 doubles €130 - 150, 9 suites €180 - 240).<br />

PTHARLGBKDW hhhh<br />

Best Western Hotel Europe G-8, ul. Liditse 1, tel. 970 15<br />

00, fax 970 15 11, info@hotel-europe-bg.com, www.hoteleurope-bg.com.<br />

Contemporary building in a suburban street<br />

offering rooms decorated in cheerful citrus-fruit colours. Some<br />

have large bathrooms with bathtubs, although you can’t always<br />

bank on getting one of these. The top floor Sky Bar has fantastic<br />

views west towards the city and south towards Mount Vitosha.<br />

Q42 rooms (18 singles €110 - 125, 18 doubles €130 - 145, 6<br />

suites €160 - 185). PTARFLBKW hhhh<br />

Best Western Hotel Expo G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />

149, tel. 817 81, fax 974 30 90, reservations@hotelexposofia.com,<br />

www.hotelexposofia.com. Located mid-way<br />

between the airport and the city centre, this is an elegant<br />

business hotel with a state-of-the-art interior and impeccable<br />

staff. Expect modern design touches and arty pictures in<br />

the rooms. The only problem is that it’s located in a rather<br />

non-descript part of town, so don’t expect a beautiful view.<br />

Q99 rooms (singles €98-127, doubles €108-138, suites<br />

€177 - 197). POHARLGKW hhhh<br />

Casa Boyana G-6, ul. Ivanitza Dantchev 23, Boyana,<br />

tel. 805 08 00, fax 805 08 05, hotel@casaboyana.com,<br />

www.casaboyana.com. Brand-new boutique-style hotel in<br />

the mountain-side suburb of Boyana, close to the National<br />

History Museum and with great city-facing views from the<br />

windows of its restaurant. Rooms come with Italian furniture,<br />

bold colours and swanky bathrooms, and the attention-todetail<br />

staff are as helpful as can be. Q16 rooms (7 singles<br />

€105 - 115, 7 doubles €105 - 125, 2 suites €145 - 165).<br />

PAUFLKDW hhhh<br />

Central B-2, bul. Hristo Botev 52, tel. 981 23 64, fax<br />

986 45 61, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com.<br />

A relatively new hotel in a convenient downtown<br />

location, this is reasonably good value for the facilities on<br />

offer. Rooms are decorated in modern, functional style; most<br />

have showers rather than full-size bathtubs. Q28 rooms<br />

(12 singles €65 - 95, 13 doubles €80 - 110, 3 apartments<br />

€120 - 175). PJHAREGKDW hhh<br />

Central Forum G-7, bul. Tsar Boris III 41, tel. 954 44 44,<br />

fax 954 33 33, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com.<br />

Recently renovated block in a part-residential,<br />

part-commercial area about 1km southwest of the downtown<br />

action. The rooms are not all that spacious but come in stressreducing<br />

creamy colours. Unusually for what claims to be a four<br />

star, most rooms come with shower, so you’ll need to fork out<br />

for a “luxury” room if you need to soak in a real bathtub. On the<br />

plus side we were rather excited to see electric kettles in some<br />

of the rooms - something of a first for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Q51 rooms<br />

(33 singles €65 - 95, 12 doubles €80 - 110, 6 apartments<br />

€120 - 140). PHARLKD hhhh<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHere to stay<br />

Еlate Plaza Hotel<br />

Mladost 1, So� a<br />

corner of Aleksander Malinov Blvd<br />

& Andrey Sakharov Blvd<br />

phone 974 4948, 0886 83 12 82<br />

sales@elateplaza.com,<br />

www.elateplaza.com<br />

Central Park Hotel C-2, bul. Vitosha 106, tel. 805 88<br />

88, fax 805 87 87, reservations@centralparkhotel.bg,<br />

www.centralparkhotel.bg. This newish 4-star hotel enjoys<br />

an enviable city-centre location right in front of the National<br />

Palace of Culture and a stone’s throw from the main shopping,<br />

eating and drinking areas. The rooms are comfortable and<br />

well-equipped, most coming with views of the nearby park<br />

and (in some cases) Mount Vitosha in the distance. The<br />

restaurant does a good line in modern European cuisine,<br />

complemented by a strong selection of wines. A full range of<br />

business services and secretarial assistance is offered by<br />

the business center. Q77 rooms (37 singles €165 - 170, 37<br />

doubles €170 - 185, 3 suites €240 - 260). PJHAR�<br />

LGKW hhhh<br />

Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel B-5, ul. Shipka 14,<br />

tel. 948 94 88, fax 948 94 90, reservations@crystalpalace-sofia.com,<br />

www.crystalpalace-sofia.com. The<br />

Crystal Palace emerged somewhat controversially from the<br />

conversion of a nineteenth-century apartment block, which<br />

involved mounting a huge glass-and-steel superstructure<br />

on top of the historic building. Conservation issues aside,<br />

it’s one of the best hotels in the city as far as service and<br />

elegance are concerned, offering sunny, spacious rooms<br />

with repro furniture and all the creature comforts. The<br />

health-and-fitness club, moodily lit and decorated in coffee<br />

and cinnamon shades, is the ideal place to wind down after<br />

a hard day spent closing deals. Q63 rooms (singles €160,<br />

doubles €180 - 200, suites €240 - 260). PHARF�<br />

GKDW hhhh<br />

Dedeman Sofia Princess F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 131, tel.<br />

933 88 88, fax 933 87 77, sofia@dedeman.com, www.<br />

dedeman.com/Sofia.aspx. If you’re the kind of person for<br />

whom size matters then the Princess is probably your kind of<br />

place. It’s the biggest hotel in Sofia, it also boasts the biggest<br />

casino in the Balkans - so it’s the perfect place to throw your<br />

money away in lavish style. Rich colours, tasseled curtains<br />

and fluffy cushions give the rooms a satisfyingly luxuriant<br />

feel. Q 601 rooms (singles €87 - 96, doubles €107 - 116,<br />

apartments €152 - 230). POHARUFLGKCW<br />

hhhh<br />

Greenville Hotel & Apartment Houses G-7, ul.<br />

Atanas Dukov 36, tel. 819 19 19, fax 819 19 18, hotel@greenville-sofia.com,<br />

www.greenville-sofia.com. A<br />

3-building complex set in leafy parkland south of the centre,<br />

offering a mixture of standard rooms and studio apartments.<br />

The rooms are light and luxurious, with flower bouquets<br />

and oil paintings adding a homely touch. Q113 rooms<br />

(singles €160 - 180, doubles €180 - 200, suites €240).<br />

PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh<br />

Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel B-2, bul. Vitosha 21, tel.<br />

810 08 00, fax 810 08 01, office@lesfleurshotel.com,<br />

www.lesfleurshotel.com. A style-conscious boutique hotel<br />

in a prime downtown position, Les Fleurs looks as if it has<br />

jumped straight from the pages of an Italian interior design<br />

January - March 2009<br />

19


20 WHere to stay<br />

magazine. Artistic flair extends to every detail, from the floral<br />

motifs inlaid into the hardwood floorboards to the glass-bead<br />

table lamps, flat-screen TVs, and swish bathrooms with cylindrical<br />

shower cubicles. Balconied top floor rooms have great<br />

views of the city centre. All rooms are irregularly shaped, and<br />

the corridors bend their way across the building rather than<br />

leading directly from A to B. The dodgy-looking black uniforms<br />

worn by the front-of-house staff make up the only element<br />

of the hotel that doesn’t quite fit. Q31 rooms (14 singles<br />

€150 - 190, 15 doubles €160 - 200, 2 suites €250 - 290).<br />

PJAGKW hhhh<br />

Light A-3, ul. Veslets 37, tel. 917 90 90, fax 917 90 10,<br />

sofiahotel@light.bg, www.hotels.light.bg. Classy modern<br />

hotel in a quiet cobbled street that seems miles away from the<br />

bustle of central Sofia. The public areas are boldly contemporary<br />

but the rooms themselves have a chintzy cosiness - note<br />

however that some come with a shower cabinet while others<br />

have a nice big bathtub. Q31 rooms (10 singles €90 - 110,<br />

18 doubles €115 - 130, 2 suites €140 - 210, Studio: €170).<br />

PJHARFLKDW hhhh<br />

Maxi Park Hotel & Spa H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose<br />

110, tel. 892 00 00, fax 892 00 50, reservations@<br />

maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. If you want to<br />

stay in the middle of a fully-equipped leisure complex<br />

then you can’t go far wrong with the Olymp, plunked in the<br />

middle of a landscaped park dotted with swimming pools<br />

and gazebos. The rooms come in fresh colours and brave<br />

modern shapes, and many of them have good views of<br />

Mount Vitosha to the south. It’s a 15-minute drive to the<br />

city centre from here, but with a restaurant decorated in<br />

the style of a nineteenth-century Russian parlour, and a<br />

glass-roofed cafe area stuffed with potted plants, there’s<br />

plenty to explore on-site. Q62 rooms (singles €96, doubles<br />

€126, suites €180 - 220, studios €126 - 156). PHAR�<br />

FLGKDCW hhhh<br />

Park Hotel Vitosha H-8, ul. Rosario 1, tel. 816 88 88,<br />

fax 962 29 25, reservations@vitoshaparkhotel.com,<br />

www.vitoshaparkhotel.com. Brand-new Scandinavianstyle<br />

designer hotel full of light colours and nice wooden<br />

surfaces. Rooms are fitted with cooking facilities, and the<br />

on-site wellness amenities are perfect if you’re in need of<br />

a bit of pampering. <strong>In</strong> park-like surroundings on the southeastern<br />

edge of the city. Q170 rooms (60 singles €89, 80<br />

doubles €119, 24 suites €119 - 139, 6 Vip studios €100).<br />

PHARFLGKDCW hhhh<br />

Residence Oborishte G-8, ul. Oborishte 63, tel. 814<br />

48 88, fax 846 82 44, contact@residence-oborishte.<br />

com, www.residence-oborishte.com. Supremely comfortable<br />

and relaxing establishment made up almost entirely of<br />

two-room apartments, with warm rich colours predominating<br />

throughout. The just-married apartment with an inviting bathtub<br />

by the wide double bed almost had us rushing to the registry<br />

office. An informal make-yourself-at-home atmosphere<br />

adds to the welcoming feel. Q9 rooms (singles €90, doubles<br />

€100 - 120, suites €130 - 160, Junior Suite €120 - 150, King<br />

Suite €140 - 180). PARW hhhh<br />

SkyWay Hotel H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose 166A, tel.<br />

819 21 00, fax 819 21 99, sky@skywayhotel.com, www.<br />

skywayhotel.com. Brand-new hotel in a freshly-renovated<br />

building, located in the middle-class-dream neighbourhood of<br />

Simeonovo, close to Mt Vitosha. Connections to the airport<br />

are reasonably speedy, and the city-centre is a 15-minute taxi<br />

ride away. The social areas combine ultra-modern straight<br />

lines with ethnic garden furniture and house plants. Rooms<br />

are decorated in bold colours and are almost spacious<br />

Hotel Avalon<br />

El Tepe No. 4,<br />

Bansko 2700<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

Tel (00359) 74988399<br />

Fax (00359) 74988398<br />

www.avalonhotel-bulgaria.com<br />

enough to play a round of golf in. There’s a cosy on-site<br />

restaurant and a business centre with PCs and free internet<br />

connection. Q85 rooms (79 doubles €115 - 130, 5 apartments<br />

€170 - 190, 1 Presidential apartment €220 - 240).<br />

PHAUFGKW hhhh<br />

Sofia Plaza F-7, bul. Hristo Botev 154, tel. 813 79<br />

79, fax 813 79 12, office@hotelsofiaplaza.com, www.<br />

hotelsofiaplaza.com. It’s about time there was a comfortable<br />

mid-price hotel in the vicinity of Sofia’s main railway<br />

station, and Sofia Plaza seems to fit the bill. Its 50 rooms<br />

have been squeezed into what is essentially a tall thin building,<br />

but the result is cosy rather than cramped. The rooms<br />

themselves feature blue carpets, peachy furnishings and<br />

fabrics, TV, minibar, and enough desk-space on which to park<br />

the average laptop. Apartments come with kitchenettes and<br />

extra fold-down beds. Q50 rooms (46 doubles €80 - 110,<br />

suites €200, 2 apartments €210 - 250, 2 Studio: €130).<br />

PHARFKDW hhhh<br />

Sveta Sofia A-2, ul. Pirotska 18, tel. 983 50 33, fax<br />

983 17 23, marketing@hotelsvetasofia.com, www.<br />

hotelsvetasofia.com. A recently renovated nineteenthcentury<br />

building on a characterful, pedestrianized shopping<br />

street, this is as pleasant a downtown location as you’ll find.<br />

The rooms are decorated in bright blue and yellow, with light<br />

and comfortable bathrooms. Note that regular doubles have<br />

showers, “luxury” rooms come with proper bathtubs. Q76<br />

rooms (singles €90 - 130, doubles €100 - 140, triples €120,<br />

suites €160 - 170, Vip apartment €250). PJHAR�<br />

UFEKDW hhhh<br />

Triada G-8, ul. Venera 5, tel. 970 67 67, fax 970 67 10,<br />

info@hoteltriada.com, www.hoteltriada.com. Relatively<br />

new building offering big, light rooms decorated in different<br />

nuances of blue. The top-floor sky bar has excellent views of<br />

Sofia’s mountainous surroundings. The hotel offers perfect<br />

conditions for business meetings and seminars. Q62 rooms<br />

(9 singles €89 - 99, 48 doubles €119, 5 apartments €140 -<br />

150). PHARUFLKDW hhhh<br />

Tsarsko Selo bul. Simeonovsko Shose, tel. 816 01<br />

01/0899 914 493, www.tsarskoselo-bg.com. Found<br />

on the busy Ring Road at the foot of Vitosha mountain and<br />

about 20 min by car from the centre and from the cabin lift<br />

(depending on the traffic), this hotel complex is built on 50<br />

000 sq. m. featuring 3 apartment blocks and 8 villas among<br />

lush green areas with artificial lake with fish, tennis court,<br />

football field, outside swimming pool and even a chapel. The<br />

rooms and apartments, with kitchenette, are not too big,<br />

except for the Suite De Luxe which is huge. They are decorated<br />

in beige, green or crème colours and hold a king size<br />

or twin beds. The bathrooms are either with shower cabins<br />

or bathtubs and some hold a bidet. The junior suites come<br />

with private sauna for two or more... The hotel complex has<br />

a SPA centre with inside swimming pool, Jacuzzi, Finish and<br />

Herbal sauna, Turkish and steam bath, relax room, ice room,<br />

solarium, fitness hall, massage and cosmetic shops. This is<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


a preferred place for sports teams. Q156 rooms (singles<br />

€54 - 62, 132 doubles €67 - 75, 24 apartments €87 - 103, 2<br />

Presidential apartments €154). POTHAUFLB�<br />

KDW hhhh<br />

Vega Sofia Hotel G-8, bul. G. M. Dimitrov 75, tel.<br />

806 60 00, fax 806 60 09, sales@hotelvegasofia.<br />

bg, www.hotelvegasofia.bg. This swanky modern<br />

4-star lies 4km south of the centre, although its location<br />

at the intersection of broad boulevards ensures that you<br />

can speed in and out pretty effectively. Rooms feature<br />

coffee-coloured decor, neat modern bathrooms with tub,<br />

flat-screen TVs, and desks offering a reasonable amount<br />

of work space. Superior rooms and suites have small<br />

terraces and tea-and-coffee-making facilities. The spiral<br />

staircase, linking the lobby area to café and restaurant,<br />

adds style and sociability to the hotel’s public spaces. The<br />

state-of-the-art solarium, fitness centre, and massage<br />

facilities are an additional major plus. Q77 rooms (singles<br />

€115 - 135, doubles €135, apartments €165 - 195).<br />

PHAUFLGKDW hhhh<br />

Mid-range<br />

Alexander Palace H-7, ul. Nartsis 1, Dragalevtsi,<br />

tel. 967 11 84, fax 967 31 46, alexader_office@abv.<br />

bg, www.svetasofia-alexanders.com. A small-sized<br />

modern building in the mountainside suburb of Dragalevtsi,<br />

a 20-minute drive from the centre. Rooms are spacious and<br />

the staff seem like a cheerful, helpful bunch. If you want a<br />

relaxing, secluded out-of-town location, then this fits the<br />

bill. Q18 rooms (singles €26, doubles €26, suites €44).<br />

AFLKD hhh<br />

Arte B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 5, tel. 402 71 00,<br />

fax 402 71 09, reception@artehotelbg.com, www.<br />

artehotelbg.com. Opened towards the end of 2006. Arte<br />

occupies an excellent position on a central boulevard,<br />

but is well enough sound-insulated to ensure that Sofia’s<br />

notoriously screechy tramcars are unlikely to disturb your<br />

beauty sleep. The owner is a bit of an art collector, and<br />

the selection of modern <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n paintings adorning the<br />

hotel hallways and restaurant pretty much justify the establishment’s<br />

name. Rooms are contemporary in style, with<br />

white walls, flat-screen TVs, and terracotta- or chocolatecoloured<br />

accessories. Note that breakfast costs an extra<br />

€10 per person. Q25 rooms (3 singles €110, 10 doubles<br />

€120, 2 apartments €150 - 160, 10 double de-lux €130).<br />

PAGKW hhh<br />

Atlantic H-8, ul. 19-a 2, Simeonovo, tel. 961 34 00,<br />

fax 961 21 32, atlantic@mail.orbitel.bg, www.atlanticbg.com.<br />

Located in the relative seclusion of Simeonovo, a<br />

suburb on the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha, this extremely<br />

plush place braced by a pair of fancy turrets makes for an<br />

ideal out-of-town retreat. Bathrooms are on the small side<br />

but rooms are otherwise extremely cosy. The top-floor restaurant<br />

offers great views towards the city. Q17 rooms (6<br />

singles €50 - 55, 6 doubles €64 - 69, 8 apartments €75 - 95).<br />

HARFLKD hhh<br />

Bulgari A-2, ul. Pirotska 50, tel. 831 00 60, fax 931<br />

14 77, bulgarihotel@yahoo.com, www.bulgarihotel.<br />

net. Small and friendly spot in a picturesque, cobbledstreet<br />

quarter of old Sofia. The tangerine-coloured rooms<br />

are on the small side, but feature TV and, in most cases,<br />

a tiny desk too. Some bathrooms boast a bathtub, others<br />

have a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-style non-partitioned shower. If you<br />

can, try and reserve the ‘Melnik’ room on the top floor: its<br />

glass-covered balcony has the feel of a conservatory but<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHere to stay<br />

comes with skyline-level views. Breakfast is served on glasstopped<br />

tables filled with seashells. The hotel is gay-friendly.<br />

Q13 rooms (12 doubles €85, 1 apartment €160 - 210).<br />

PJARGW hhh<br />

Casa Ferrari Bed and Breakfast C-1, ul. Lulin<br />

Planina 16, tel. 0898 43 67 00, fax 980 84 14, info@<br />

casaferrari.com, www.casaferrari.com. This centrally<br />

located small hotel is situated on a quiet street within walking<br />

distance of Sofia’s main tourist attractions. Decorated<br />

with classic Italian furnishings, an atmosphere is produced<br />

combining luxury with relaxed charm. <strong>In</strong> addition to the three<br />

tastefully styled guest rooms, is a large, bright breakfast<br />

room, an ideal place for getting the day off to a good start, or<br />

reminiscing about your trip’s highlights. The married couple,<br />

who serve as your hosts, are congenial and very helpful in<br />

planning the most effective way to see the sights in Sofia.<br />

All-in-all, the Casa Ferrari is a very pleasant home away from<br />

home. Q3 rooms (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €95).<br />

PTJARG hhh<br />

Diter C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 65, tel./fax 989 89 98,<br />

hotel@diterhotel.com, www.diterhotel.com. Located in<br />

a sensitively-restored nineteenth-century house in a quiet<br />

but superbly central street, this is a real find. Rooms come<br />

in mood-enhancing blues and oranges and are equipped with<br />

minibar, TV and safe. Generous provision of desk space is a<br />

major plus, as is the provision of state-of-the-art massage<br />

nozzles in the shower cubicles. The T-shaped room no. 302<br />

(a single) will suit the idiosyncratic travellers down to the<br />

ground. Q21 rooms (7 singles €72 - 88, 12 doubles €98, 2<br />

suites €98 - 108). PARK hhh<br />

Elate Plaza<br />

Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksandar<br />

Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48,<br />

sales@elateplaza.com, www.elateplaza.com. Five<br />

minutes drive south from the airport in a residential neighbourhood<br />

this is a smallish comfy and charming hotel.<br />

Rooms come in different shapes and sizes, contemporary<br />

in style, decorated in wine-red, with light bathrooms.<br />

Suites have bathtubs. An informal make-yourself-at-home<br />

atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture.<br />

The fitness centre is an additional plus. Q19 rooms<br />

(5 singles €50 - 65, 10 doubles €60 - 80, 4 apartments<br />

€90 - 120). PHARUFLGKDW hhh<br />

Kapri G-8, ul. Han Omurtag 76, tel. 843 50 73, fax 944<br />

27 72, kapri@fog-bg.net, www.kapri-hotel.dir.bg. Mediumsized<br />

and rather intimate hotel in a quiet neighbourhood 2km<br />

east of the centre. Rooms are nicely kitted out in soothing pale<br />

greens and light brown furniture, but they’re a bit on the small<br />

side - the hotel is in a converted family house and everything<br />

seems a tight squeeze. Q20 rooms (8 singles €50, 11<br />

doubles €65, 1 apartment €80). PARKW hhh<br />

January - March 2009<br />

21


22 WHere to stay<br />

Kolikovski Hotel C-2, ul. Hristo Belchev 46, tel./fax<br />

980 95 69, hotel@kolikovski.com, www.kolikovski.com.<br />

Located on a cobbled street barely seconds away from bul.<br />

Vitosha, the Kolikovski makes an immediate impression with<br />

its sensuous colours and twenty-first-century-baroque design<br />

deatails. With dark purples and matt surfaces predominating,<br />

it makes a nice change from the pastel colours on offer<br />

elsewhere. Although primarily intended as a business hotel,<br />

it’s definitely the kind of place you would want to end up at<br />

after a successful date. Rooms are reasonably spacious<br />

and feature TV, minibar and desk space. The superior<br />

rooms also have an electric kettle. Q33 rooms (14 singles<br />

€100 - 125, 15 doubles €120 - 145, 4 suites €150 - 170).<br />

PTJHARUFLKW hhh<br />

Latinka G-8, ul. Latinka 28A, tel. 870 08 48, fax 870 08<br />

56, office@hotel-latinka-sofia.com, www.hotel-latinkasofia.com.<br />

Sleek and modern outside, comfy and charming<br />

within, this is an exceedingly good mid-range choice indeed.<br />

About 3km southeast of the centre, it’s only 5 minutes’ walk<br />

away from the huge expanse of greenery that is Borisova<br />

Gradina park. Rooms are decked out in mood-enhancing<br />

primary colours and come with telephone, cable TV, internet<br />

connection and mini-bar. Ask for one of the top-floor rooms<br />

with attic ceiling if you want a bit of atmosphere. Q26 rooms<br />

(10 singles €50 - 55, 15 doubles €70 - 75, 1 apartment €80).<br />

PALGKW hhh<br />

Legends G-7, bul. Cherni vrah 54-56, tel. 961 79 30, fax<br />

961 79 33, info@hotel-legends.bg, www.hotel-legends.<br />

bg. Situated in the Hladilnika district 4km south of the centre,<br />

Legends offers all the business-class comforts but has<br />

the added advantages of medum-sized-hotel intimacy and<br />

medium-range prices. The bronzy-brown rooms come with<br />

desk space and bath-tubs. An internet connection for your laptop<br />

costs an extra €5 per day. Despite the neighbourhood’s<br />

relative lack of decent bars and restaurants, transport links<br />

are good: trams no. 9 and no. 10 will whisk you into town,<br />

while bus no. 66 powers its way up to Aleko on Mt Vitosha.<br />

Q49 rooms (3 singles €64 - 74, 40 doubles €76 - 86, 2<br />

apartments €94 - 104, 4 Apartment houses €104 - 114).<br />

PALK hhh<br />

Lion A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 60, tel. 917 84 00, fax 917<br />

84 01, office@hotelslion.bg, www.hotelslion.bg. This<br />

stately nineteenth-century building overlooks a major road<br />

intersection mid-way between the train station and the centre,<br />

and is a great place from which to observe the constant<br />

pulse of pedestrians and traffic if you get a front-facing room.<br />

Many of the rooms have characterful architectural touches<br />

you won’t find elsewhere, with bay windows in some, arched<br />

windows in others. Décor is a bit hit and miss though: some<br />

rooms are inoffensively yellow, others have boldly stripy<br />

wall coverings. Q33 rooms (12 singles €65, 13 doubles<br />

€80, 1 apartment €110, 3 single luxury, 4 double luxury).<br />

PJARKW hhh<br />

Lozenetz E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 23, tel. 965 44 44, fax<br />

965 44 45, info@lozenetzhotel.com, www.lozenetzhotel.<br />

com. A contemporary building in a residential area just south<br />

of the city centre. Rooms are light and spacious, although<br />

some of the bathrooms are a tight squeeze. There is a small<br />

but relaxing garden attached to the restaurant. Q31 rooms<br />

(singles €62 - 74, doubles €85, suites €85, superior €68 - 80).<br />

PHARLGK hhh<br />

Meg Lozenetz D-3, ul. Krum Popov 84, tel. 965 19 70,<br />

fax 965 19 71, reservation@meg-lozenetz.com, www.<br />

meg-lozenetz.com. <strong>In</strong>viting mid-sized hotel in residential<br />

streets just south of the centre, near the City Center Sofia<br />

Out of town<br />

SPA Hotel Bankya Palace bul. Varna 70, Bankya,<br />

tel. 812 20 20, fax 997 70 64, hotel@bankyapalace.<br />

com, www.bankyapalace.com. The Bankya Palace<br />

was renovated in 2005 and some parts of it are really<br />

state-of-the-art. Rooms are not too spacious, but are<br />

light and decorated in fresh colours. Most bathrooms<br />

are with bathtubs. The on-site Spa centre offers a large<br />

number of superb remedial, recuperation and relaxation<br />

programs (including aromatherapy, chocolate or honey<br />

massage, wine-therapy and thalasso-therapy). The complex<br />

has its own bowling hall and a big outdoor swimming<br />

pool with mineral water. Q73 rooms (19 singles €42<br />

- 53, 41 doubles €53 - 69, 14 apartments €84 - 111).<br />

PHARUFLBKDCW hhhh<br />

shopping mall. The deep carpeted rooms are decorated in<br />

warm colours and come with a lot of desk space. They also<br />

come in irregular shapes, which makes a nice change from the<br />

perfect rectangles on offer elsewhere. The hotel restaurant<br />

looks semi-tropical with its rattan chairs, wooden decking<br />

and house-plants - appropriately enough, it is home to an<br />

enormous green parrot. Q17 rooms (4 singles €75 - 90, 5<br />

doubles €85 - 100, 4 triples €95 - 110, apartments €135 -<br />

150, 4 luxury €100 - 110). PARGKW hhh<br />

Renaissance B-2, pl. Vazrazhdane 2, tel. 957 11 12, fax<br />

957 18 52, renaissance@online.bg, www.renaissance.<br />

yes.bg. If you don’t mind a bit of kitsch you’ll quite like this<br />

place, with its loud colours, copper engravings of renaissance<br />

paintings and retro furniture. Panoramic view of Sofia from the<br />

top-floor terrace. Q29 rooms (14 singles €55, 14 doubles<br />

€65, 1 apartment €90). PHAKW hhh<br />

Scotty’s Boutique Hotel A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 11, tel.<br />

983 67 77, fax 983 32 29, scottyshotel@yahoo.com.<br />

Small, intimate but superbly central hotel in a renovated<br />

house with 16 individually-decorated, colour-coordinated<br />

rooms - the one with zebra-print bedspreads being one of<br />

our particular favourites. Bathrooms are roomier than most,<br />

although some come with showers rather than full-size tubs.<br />

Relaxed atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture.<br />

Gay-friendly. Q16 rooms (2 singles €55, 14 doubles €65 -<br />

95). PTARW hhh<br />

Budget<br />

Aris F-7, ul. Knyaz Boris 203, tel. 931 31 77, fax 931<br />

00 19, info@hotel-aris.com, www.hotel-aris.com. Tucked<br />

away in a quiet leafy street but perfectly placed for the train<br />

and bus stations, Aris is a welcome addition to Sofia’s growing<br />

range of civilized but cost-conscious hotels. Rooms are<br />

functional but comfortable, with soothing colour schemes,<br />

reasonably high ceilings, TVs and hairdryers. Apartments<br />

featuring fold-down sofa-beds are perfect for those travelling<br />

as a group or a family. Q18 rooms (12 doubles €55, 4 triples<br />

€66, 1 suite €66, 1 apartment €77). PJALW hhh<br />

Brod H-8, Simeonovsko shose 66, tel. 968 19 80, fax<br />

968 19 84, hotelbrod@yahoo.com, www.hotelbrod.com.<br />

A suburban hotel of recent construction offering excellent<br />

value in this price range. All rooms are neatly kitted out in<br />

a mixture of pastel and terracotta shades - “luxury” rooms<br />

have good-sized bathtubs, while others come with a simple<br />

shower unit. Simeonovsko shose itself is hardly Sofia’s most<br />

inspiring street, but you’ll feel quite at home here once the<br />

friendly and helpful staff have told you where the local cafés,<br />

shops and bus-stops are. And taxis to/from here aren’t going<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


to break the bank. Q44 rooms (13 singles €45, 27 doubles<br />

€55 - 70, 4 suites €80). PHALGK hhh<br />

Harmony E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 866 53 77, fax<br />

866 25 37, sofia@hotels-harmony.com, www.hotelsharmony.com.<br />

You won’t be drowned in luxury here but you’ll<br />

certainly find everything necessary for a pleasant and restful<br />

stay, and the small scale of the place makes you feel looked<br />

after. It’s right next door to one of Sofia’s most popular indoor<br />

and outdoor swimming pools, which you can use free of charge<br />

the first time, after which a small entrance fee comes into<br />

operation. Q16 rooms (singles €55, doubles €75, suites<br />

€85 - 95). PHALK hhh<br />

Madrid G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 12, tel. 944 89 52, fax 943<br />

31 44, hotel@madridbg.com, www.madridbg.com. <strong>In</strong>timate<br />

hotel in a quiet area just east of the city centre, offering<br />

simply furnished en-suite rooms and little in the way of extras.<br />

Difficult to beat at this price. Q15 rooms (2 singles €20, 10<br />

doubles €28, 2 triples €33, 1 quad €40). PJAW h<br />

Niky C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 16, tel. 952 30 58, fax 951<br />

60 91, office@hotel-niky.com, www.hotel-niky.com. This<br />

superbly located and friendly place has a lot of admirers,<br />

so be sure to book in advance. The handful of single and<br />

double rooms come with modern furnishings, minibar, TV<br />

and WC/shower. However the majority of rooms are roomy<br />

apartment-style affairs featuring kitchenette and bathtub.<br />

The garden restaurant, famed for its grills, comes into its own<br />

in spring and summer. Q22 rooms (3 singles €40 - 45, 3<br />

doubles €45 - 50, 16 apartments €60 - 105, 1 double luxury<br />

€50 - 55). PARUGKW hhh<br />

Pop Bogomil A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 5, tel. 983 11 65,<br />

fax 983 70 65, hotelpopbogomil@dir.bg, www.bulgariabedandbreakfast.com.<br />

Welcoming and intimate place in<br />

an area of cobbled residential streets a few minutes’ walk<br />

from the city centre. Rooms are on the small side and feature<br />

mix-and-match furnishings that might not quite make it into<br />

the pages of a design magazine, but everything else about<br />

this hotel seems tidy and comfy. Some rooms have bathtubs,<br />

some have showers, so ask in advance if you’ve got a preference.<br />

Breakfast costs a few leva extra. Q10 rooms (doubles<br />

€30 - 33). LW hhh<br />

Red Bed and Breakfast C-4, ul. Lyuben Karavelov<br />

15, tel./fax 988 81 88, info@redbandb.com, www.<br />

redbandb.com. An early twentieth-century villa houses the<br />

Red House cultural centre as well as this charming B&B. The<br />

rooms come in a variety of different styles: some feature<br />

soothingly pale decor while others are kitted out in sensuous<br />

reds and greens. Toilet and bathroom are located in the<br />

hallway, but you do get breakfast delivered to your room.<br />

The top-floor terrace is a great place to hang out when the<br />

weather gets warmer. Q6 rooms (singles €25 - 35, doubles<br />

€40 - 50). RKW hh<br />

RotasaR G-8, ul. Liditse and Kosta Lulchev (at the<br />

corner), tel. 971 45 71, fax 971 45 74, hotel@rotasar.<br />

com, www.rotasar.com. Smallish hotel with a cosy feel, in<br />

a residential neighbourhood 2km east of the centre on the<br />

way to Sofia airport. Rooms come in different sizes and colour<br />

schemes but are all equipped with a small TV, minibar and<br />

bathroom. Colourful contemporary prints in the rooms and<br />

hallways add a bit of character. Breakfast in the downstairs<br />

restaurant costs an extra €3. Q18 rooms (8 doubles €42 -<br />

49, 7 apartments €62 - 82, 3 studios. PARKW hh<br />

Shipka G-7, bul. Totleben 34A, tel. 915 14 87, fax<br />

953 12 30, shipka_hotel@abv.bg, www.hotel-shipka.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHere to stay<br />

Borovets<br />

Tel.: +359 750 3 20 45<br />

Fax: +359 750 3 26 07<br />

reservations@iceangelshotel.com<br />

www.iceangelshotel.com<br />

com. Twenty minutes’ walk southwest of the centre, this<br />

Defence Ministry-owned establishment is a bit care-worn<br />

and institutionalised at first glance, but it’s far from being a<br />

boot camp. Rooms are adequate and come with TV, fridge<br />

and WC/shower: those in the ‘lux’ category have the added<br />

benefits of plush carpets and jolly colour schemes. The fab<br />

subterranean fitness complex looks like a training centre for<br />

special agents: saunas, steam baths and gym are free for<br />

hotel guests, while a plethora of wellness treatments come<br />

at an extra charge. Q135 rooms (singles €34, doubles €43,<br />

apartment vip €92). PHRFLKD hhh<br />

Sofia Garden Bed and Breakfast C-3, ul. Angel<br />

Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45, art-hostel@art-hostel.<br />

com, www.art-hostel.com. Located in the same centrallylocated<br />

nineteenth-century building as the ever-popular Art<br />

Hostel (see “Hostels” below), Sofia Garden offers simplyfurnished<br />

but characterful rooms with wooden floorboards,<br />

distressed chairs and wardrobes, and high ceilings. Toilet<br />

and shower are across the hallway. There’s a communal hall<br />

with homely ceramic stove, and a small kitchen complete<br />

with kettle and toaster. Room price includes breakfast<br />

coupons, which you can cash in at the excellent “Kuhnyata<br />

na mama” canteen-restaurant just down the street. Q9<br />

rooms (4 doubles €26 - 36, 2 Private rooms €14, 3 Dorm<br />

rooms €10). ARW h<br />

Apartment hotels<br />

Apartment House Dunav A-4, ul. Dunav 38, tel. 983<br />

30 02, fax 983 38 04, reception@dunavapartmenthouse.com,<br />

www.dunavapartmenthouse.com. A range<br />

of delightfully light and spacious apartments with parquet<br />

floors, neutral colours, kitchenette, TV and WC/shower.<br />

The 2-bed family apartments on the top floor come with<br />

attractive attic windows. Breakfast can be delivered from<br />

the nearby Tabiet restaurant if you’re too lazy to cook your<br />

own. Handily located in a downtown area characterized<br />

by quiet cobbled streets. Q14 rooms (14 apartments<br />

€58 - 88). Rates fall dramatically the longer you stay.<br />

PTAR hhh<br />

Apartment House Iztok G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel.<br />

970 01 00, fax 970 01 28, aphouse_iztok@yahoo.com,<br />

www.apartmenthouseiztok.bg. Fully serviced apartment<br />

block on the southeastern fringes of the centre. The smallest<br />

studio apartments are no different to a mid-price hotel<br />

room, but providing you steer clear of these you should have<br />

no complaints. Expect lam floors, warm colours, and modern<br />

bathrooms with tubs. Breakfast is brought to your room, and<br />

there’s a strip of garden complete with kids’ play area out the<br />

back. Q32 rooms (4 singles €110, 4 doubles €120, 5 apartments<br />

€190, 8 business studios €135, 6 family apartments<br />

€150, 5 big family apartments €170). Rates fall in proportion<br />

to length of stay. PTARLKW hhh<br />

Apartment House Sofia G-7, ul. Golo bardo 2-4, tel.<br />

960 28 88, fax 960 28 60, info@aphouse-sofia.com,<br />

January - March 2009<br />

23


24 WHere to stay<br />

www.aphouse-sofia.com. Tidy new block in a residential<br />

area just south of the centre, offering comfy apartments<br />

ranging in size from 2-person studios to 2-bedroom family<br />

flats. All have laminated floors, pastel-coloured furnishings, TV,<br />

kitchenette, and bathrooms with full-sized tubs. Apartments<br />

are serviced daily. If you don’t fancy self-catering, you can eat<br />

very well at the Carrera restaurant on the ground floor. Q (28<br />

apartments €120 - 180). Long-stay rates are substantially<br />

cheaper. PTARLK<br />

Apartment rental<br />

City Hotels Ltd C-5, bul. Evlogi Georgiev 85, tel. 0888<br />

509 199, office@rentinsofia.com, www.rentinsofia.com.<br />

This firm have around 30 apartments at their disposal, of<br />

varying sizes and at various locations around town. Judging by<br />

the one we saw, furnishings are tasteful, colour schemes are<br />

soothing, and kitchens and bathrooms are fully equipped with<br />

modern gear. Apartments are serviced on a daily basis. Q<br />

The prices range from €40 for one bedroom apts, to €60-80<br />

for a 3-bedroom family dwelling. Prices decrease according<br />

to how long you stay.<br />

Variety E-3, ul. Yoan Ekzarh 20, tel. 963 31 51, fax 866 15<br />

57, office@variety-bg.com, www.variety-bg.com. Variety<br />

offer well over 20 properties in central Sofia and the inner-ring of<br />

suburban districts, with short- or long-term apartments ranging<br />

in size from 2- to 4-bedroom. <strong>In</strong>teriors are neat and tasteful,<br />

some feature a very high standard of interior design indeed.<br />

The apartments are fully serviced and secure. Q Prices vary<br />

between €40 and €70 depending on the size of the apartment,<br />

with discounts for long term stays. ALW<br />

Hostels<br />

Art-Hostel C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45,<br />

art-hostel@art-hostel.com, www.art-hostel.com. The<br />

original idea behind this little place was that it would be a<br />

hostel-cum-art gallery where people could meet and exchange<br />

ideas. It doesn’t always live up to its cultural mission but it’s<br />

quirky, friendly and central all the same. There are two dormitories<br />

equipped with double-decker bunks, and a communal<br />

sitting room with soft furnishings and occasional exhibitions.<br />

The weirdly decorated downstairs cafe-bar is reason enough<br />

to stay. Price includes a modest breakfast (served at a nearby<br />

cafe-restaurant, not on the premises). Q Dorm bed €11,<br />

mattress on the floor without breakfast €5. W<br />

Be My Guest C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 13, tel. 989 50 92,<br />

bemyguest@mail.bg, www.bemyguest-hostel.com.<br />

Centrally-placed hostel with a rambling collection of rooms<br />

and a cosy if cramped living room. The dorms and doubles<br />

are functional in the extreme but funky ethno furnishings will<br />

make you feel at home. The 5-bed split-level apartment,<br />

decorated with kooky paintings, is well worth getting hold of<br />

if you’re travelling as a family or with friends. A basic breakfast<br />

is included. Q €10 -12-15per bed. PLW<br />

Hostel Mostel B-2, bul. Makedonia 2A, tel. 0889 223<br />

296, info@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.com.<br />

Lurking behind an unlikely-looking metal doorway, Hostel<br />

Mostel is one of Sofia’s hidden treasures, occupying a reconstructed<br />

nineteenth-century inn which plonked surreally<br />

in a city-centre courtyard. The simple, mattress-on-the-floor<br />

accommodation is neat and clean: individual dorms can be<br />

booked as private rooms by twosomes or threesomes for a<br />

few extra euro during the low season. The spacious groundfloor<br />

social area, including pool table, internet terminal,<br />

kitchen, and oriental, cushion-strewn divan, is a major feature.<br />

Q €10-15 per person. W<br />

Hostel Sofia B-2, ul. Pozitano 16, tel. 989 85 82,<br />

hostel-sofia@yahoo.com. Sofia’s first-ever backpackerfriendly<br />

hostel is still going strong, with two floors of pinefloored,<br />

bunk-filled dorms (ranging in size from 12-bed to<br />

4-bed) in a central apartment block. It still has the feel of a<br />

cosy private flat, with teddy-bear wallpaper in some of the<br />

dorms, lounge furniture stuffed into the hallway, and a small<br />

but fully-equipped kitchen. Breakfast included. Q €10 per<br />

person. PIKW<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternet Hostel B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, 2nd floor, tel. 0889<br />

138 298, fax 989 94 19, interhostel@yahoo.co.uk. A<br />

place that always seems to be full of nice and friendly young<br />

travellers. Clean and tidy rooms ranging in size from a single<br />

to a six-bed dorm. It’s a bit difficult to find at first: enter the<br />

shopping arcade at Alabin 50, look for the plain white door<br />

on your left, then head up the stairs. Q From €9-10 per<br />

person - dorm room, €25-30 double room, €30-35 for studio,<br />

€35-40 triple room. R<br />

Sofia Guesthouse C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 27, tel.<br />

403 01 00, info@sofiaguest.com, www.sofiaguest.<br />

com. Spacious and relaxing hostel with fresh-smelling, airconditioned<br />

dorms, a healthy number of toilets and showers<br />

on each floor, and a big sitting-room-cum-socializing area near<br />

the reception desk. Plus there’s a basement breakfast room<br />

and TV room. Use of internet terminal and washing machine<br />

for a small extra fee. Breakfast included. Q €10-18 per<br />

person. PAW<br />

The Rooms A-5, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 0898 260<br />

316, fax 983 35 08, theroomshostel@yahoo.com.<br />

Quiet little place offering individual single and double<br />

rooms, most of which have an en-suite WC/shower. The<br />

charmingly odd furnishings include some genuine antiques.<br />

The cupboard-sized socializing area (really just a corner<br />

of the hallway) features a lovely crimson sofa that is very<br />

easy to sink into but is virtually impossible to get out of.<br />

Breakfast (often featuring the typically <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n banitsa<br />

cheese pastry) is available for a small extra fee. Q €10-<br />

15 per person. R<br />

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New restaurants are opening all the time in Sofia, but<br />

there aren’t enough good chefs to go round and standards<br />

tend to yo-yo as a result. Service is traditionally on the<br />

slow side, but things are picking up in this department.<br />

The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a main<br />

course.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live music S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />

O Casino M Nearest station<br />

R <strong>In</strong>ternet 6 Animal friendly<br />

Armenian<br />

Egur, Egur B-4, ul. Dobrudzha 10, tel. 989 33 83,<br />

egur@abv.bg. Armenian food, superbly prepared and<br />

presented with old-school elegance, in a restaurant, owned<br />

bys <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-Armenian jazz singer Hilda Kazasyan. No-holdsbarred<br />

carnivores should plump for the Caucasian flame-grilled<br />

kebabs, although there’s plenty by way of subtly-spiced<br />

stews and loads of vegetarian options involving aubergines,<br />

peppers, courgettes and other tasty fresh things. There’s<br />

an extensive list of both <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and international wines,<br />

expensive vintage tipples included. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

(20-30Lv). PJA<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Bulgari B-5, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 71, tel. 843 54 19,<br />

fax 846 84 46, bulgarians@abv.bg, www.restaurantbulgary.com.<br />

For an elegant dining experience, head for<br />

this historic house crammed full of sepia photographs of<br />

old Sofia. The menu focuses mainly on classic <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

dishes although there’s a number of modern European<br />

choices too. The bow-tied waiting staff seem to know<br />

their business, and the upstairs no-smoking rooms are<br />

genuinely secluded from the rest. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.<br />

(10-25Lv). PAGW<br />

Divaka C-3, ul. Gladston 54, tel. 989 95 43. The<br />

“Savage” is extremely popular among younger locals for<br />

its relaxed informal atmosphere and good, inexpensive<br />

food. There’s a big choice of huge salads, the grilled pork<br />

and chicken dishes are dependably delicious, and even<br />

the vegetarian shish-kebab is surprisingly tasty. There<br />

are other branches at C-3 ul. Hristo Belchev 16 (a bright,<br />

minimalistically-decorated place that looks like a smart<br />

canteen for yuppies); and at C-3, ul. 6-ti septemvri 41A.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (7-12Lv). P<br />

Etno B-3, ul. Alabin 35, tel. 988 75 75, etnoegur@<br />

abv.bg. Spread out in a large basement in the heart of the<br />

downtown shopping area, this is a rather elegant take on a<br />

familiar down-on-the-farm rustic theme. Starched napkins<br />

and fancy cutlery adorn the tables, while garlic and corn<br />

cobs hang on rough whitewashed walls in the background.<br />

The menu aims to provide down-to-earth home cooking<br />

from around Europe (I’m sure we saw a Wiener Schnitzel in<br />

here somewhere), although the accent is on <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n meat<br />

favourites - it’s a nice change to see <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n grill-snacks<br />

given the serious cuisine treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />

(5-15Lv). PJAIG<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

restaUrants<br />

Hadzhidraganovite kashti F-7, ul. Kozloduy 75,<br />

tel. 931 31 48, info@kashtite.com, www.kashtite.<br />

com. Hugely enjoyable theme restaurant located mid-way<br />

between the town centre and the train station, consisting<br />

of four large rooms, each designed in the folk style of a particular<br />

region of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Traditional musicians drift from<br />

room to room during the course of the evening, ensuring<br />

that no-one misses the show. The lengthy menu covers<br />

just about everything in the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culinary repertoire,<br />

and the list of rakias will have you scratching your head<br />

wondering which to try next. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. (10-<br />

15Lv). PAIE<br />

Halbite C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 72, tel. 980 41 47. One of<br />

central Sofia’s most enduringly popular beer hall-cum-eateries,<br />

with a predominantly <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n menu - but without the<br />

kitsch touches you get in some of the more self-consciously<br />

touristy places. Expect instead a relaxing jumble of roughand-ready<br />

wooden tables and chairs, a generous choice of<br />

domestic and international beers, and rock or blues on the<br />

sound system. Very popular, so be sure to reserve at weekends.<br />

There’s another branch at C-1, bul. Praga 18. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 24:00. (5-15Lv). PGBS<br />

Chevermeto E-3, bul. Cherni vrah 31, tel./fax 963<br />

03 08, chevermeto@chevermeto-bg.com, www.<br />

chevermeto-bg.com. Despite it’s location in the basement<br />

of the greying Hotel Hemus, an evening at the “Spit-Roast<br />

Lamb” comes across as an entertaining journey into <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

rural ethnography. Traditional textiles are draped across<br />

every surface, and folk groups perform nightly after 8pm.<br />

The sizeable menu includes just about everything in the<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culinary repertoire, so there should be something<br />

here to suit all tastes and pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

(9-22Lv). PAILE<br />

January - March 2009<br />

25


26 restaUrants<br />

Magdanoz (Parsley) B-1, ul. Damyan Gruev 28, tel.<br />

981 14 30. A friendly restaurant furnished with wooden<br />

sitting and beautiful garden. The chef prepares delicious<br />

salads, soups, meat and vegetarian dishes, desserts. They<br />

offer also a nice lunch menu. Try the bolyar meat balls or the<br />

mushrooms filled with cream and yellow chese. QOpen<br />

08:30 - 23:00. 6B<br />

Manastirska magernitsa C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 67, tel.<br />

980 38 83/0899 94 94 00, www.magernitsa.com.. Sheltered<br />

in an elegantly decorated nineteenth-century house, the<br />

restaurant offers an imaginative approach towards traditional<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine - the owners have collected traditional<br />

recipes from <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n monasteries and reproduced here. Although<br />

the menu is so long that it takes an eternity to decide<br />

what to eat, it features a lot of things you won’t find elsewhere<br />

and has plenty of choice for vegetarians. Service can be slow,<br />

but you won’t find many finer settings for a long leisurely meal.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (12-18Lv). PJAB<br />

Pod lipite D-5, ul. Elin Pelin 1, tel. 866 50 53, www.<br />

podlipitebg.com. One of Sofia’s longest-established and<br />

most enjoyable traditional restaurants, with a suite of rooms<br />

done out in the style of a timber-beamed small-town tavern.<br />

The menu is extensive and doesn’t really have any weak<br />

points - the succulent shashlik-style skewer-grilled kebabs<br />

constitute one particular treat. Vegetarians can assemble<br />

a handsome feast from the courgette-, aubergine- and<br />

pepper-based dishes listed as starters. Service is brisk and<br />

enthusiastic, and live folk music is a feature at weekends.<br />

The place gets packed out even at lunchtimes, so it’s wise<br />

to reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (8-20Lv).<br />

PILGBSW<br />

Pri Yafata B-2, ul. Solunska 28, tel. 980 17 27, www.<br />

pri-yafata.com. Traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine served up in<br />

a suite of rooms decked out in folk textiles and nineteenthcentury<br />

domestic nick-nacks. It’s an excellent place in which<br />

to sample the standard <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n repertoire of grilled meats,<br />

backed up by an array of healthy salads and some superb<br />

spicy bob (baked beans Balkan-style). Some of the cheaper<br />

wines are a bit rough though. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. (6-<br />

12Lv). PAEW<br />

Czech<br />

Cheshki klub B-5, ul. Krakra 15, tel. 944 13 83. With<br />

its plain wood furnishings, plain tablecloths and busy waiters,<br />

the Czech Club is one of those reassuringly old-fashioned<br />

places that seems to occupy its own bubble in space and<br />

time - Ruritania in the 1950s being the most likely coordinates.<br />

The prices are stuck in the 1950s too - you can eat<br />

handsomely here for the price of a salad in some other Sofia<br />

restaurants. The menu is vaguely central European padded<br />

out with <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n grills. For something authentically Czech<br />

order the goulash or pork served with knedliky - fantastically<br />

filling sliced dumplings. The well-kept Staropramen beer is<br />

another reason to make the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. (6-10Lv). JGBW<br />

French<br />

L’Etranger A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 78, tel. 983 14 17/0887<br />

523 376, bistrot_letranger@hotmail.com. Homely bistro<br />

offering very reasonable food - good place for a quick lunch or<br />

a more leisurely three-course meal. The chef is a Frenchman<br />

who owns the place together with his <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wife, so it’s a<br />

real family restaurant. Good service and meals that live up to<br />

expectations. What more can you say? QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,<br />

Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (14-22Lv). PA<br />

Fun<br />

Happy Bar & Grill B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 4, tel. 980 73<br />

53. If you’re the kind of person who likes bright neon lights,<br />

laminated menues and electric guitars on the walls, then this<br />

is most emphatically the place for you. Expect to dine on grilled<br />

chicken and pork dishes, followed by an array of excellent<br />

sweets. The large choice of alcoholic substances ensures<br />

that this is a popular venue in which to spin out an evening.<br />

It’s a huge place that’s constantly busy, so be prepared<br />

to squeeze in wherever the wait-staff can find you a place.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PJABSW<br />

Greek<br />

Kumbare B-3, ul. Saborna 14, tel. 981 17 94/0897 806<br />

390, office@kumbare.com, www.kumbare.com. Pretty<br />

much everything you would expect from a Greek restaurant is<br />

here in abundance, with a succulent repertoire of grilled lamb<br />

and fish dishes accompanied by luxuriant salads - all prepared<br />

under the watchful eye of the head chef. The loud and exuberant<br />

music will soon put you in the right mood to dive into the<br />

selection of ouzos and retsinas. Chandeliers, flowers, and<br />

Ionian columns create a winning Mediterranean ambience, an<br />

impression enhanced by the sharp-looking team of young men<br />

in starched white shirts that make up the wait-staff. Kumbare’s<br />

position on central Sofia’s main tourist route ensures a constant<br />

stream of diners - so you’d better make a reservation.<br />

Oh, and just in case you were wondering, “Kumbare” means<br />

“best man”, and is also the name of a traditional Greek dessert<br />

prepared from cake fingers, mascarpone and nuts. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 23:00. (7-34Lv). PJAEBS<br />

Hungarian<br />

Pri Latsi B-5, ul. Oborishte 18, tel. 846 86 87. Authentic<br />

Magyar cuisine, prepared under the watchful eye of Laszlo<br />

Sendi, former manager of the legendary (but no longer standing)<br />

Restaurant Budapeshta. With no more than eight tables spread<br />

over two floors, it’s a delightfully cozy and intimate setting in<br />

which to enjoy some truly excellent food - try the rich, creamy,<br />

paprika-laden Szekely goulash, followed by shamloi galushki<br />

(fried dough balls covered in syrup). Folksy Hungarian embroidery<br />

on the walls and cheerful wait-staff provide the finishing<br />

touches. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7-13Lv). PGBS<br />

Chinese<br />

Devette drakona B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8A, tel. 981<br />

88 78. Ignore the gaudy signs advertising the “Gentlemen’s<br />

Club” on the ground floor of the building and head upstairs to find<br />

one of Sofia’s better oriental eateries. The excellent, if familiar<br />

repertoire of pork, beef and duck dishes has never disappointed,<br />

and the décor’s quite nice too: soothing shades of Burgundy<br />

prevail, and apart from a pair of enormous vases each big enough<br />

to house a fair-sized panda, there’s a reassuring absence of fareastern<br />

kitsch. The no-smoking corner is relatively well secluded.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (4-12Lv). PJGS<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Kitayski Drakon (Chinese Dragon) B-2, ul. Ivailo<br />

19, tel. 0899 006 061/983 60 34, vel@vel-bg.com,<br />

www.vel-bg.com. The food is of course Chinese and they<br />

have lots of spicy dishes. The menu is impressive with more<br />

than 200 dishes, most of which have the choice of small or<br />

large portion. For delivery you can order by phone or online.<br />

They have another restaurant on ul. Slavyanska Beseda 3.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4-10Lv). PB<br />

Magnolia B-2, ul. Tri ushi 2, tel. 987 11 20. Bare-topped<br />

tables and a minimum of décor provide a suitably functional<br />

environment in which to feast upon cheap, filling and wellprepared<br />

food. The menu sticks to tried-and-trusted pork and<br />

chicken favourites - with the welcome addition of some fiery<br />

Sechuan dishes you won’t find elsewhere in town. Last time<br />

we were here the staff were playing a sequence of pounding<br />

techno tracks that seemed to be on a permanent loop - if<br />

this was intended as a digestional aid it was certainly a new<br />

one on us. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PS<br />

<strong>In</strong>dian<br />

Kohinoor C-2, ul. Han Aparuh 3, tel. 0882 53 25 41,<br />

info@kohinoor.bg, www.kohinoor.bg. 1st street off Hristo<br />

Botev at the Five Corners lies the Kohinoor. And, like its<br />

namesake it’s a real diamond. The menu is as predictable<br />

as most <strong>In</strong>dian menus and the food is great. Huge portions<br />

too. Nice spacious downstairs restaurant with great space<br />

between the tables and an excellent bathroom. The bathroom<br />

alone is worth a visit. The food is brilliant. Service comes<br />

with a real smile. And, with a bill that is actually a pleasure<br />

to pay, all in all it’s worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat<br />

17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (8-15Lv). PJ<br />

Taj Mahal B-4, ul. 11-i avgust 11, tel. 987 36 32, tajmahal.bg@gmail.com,<br />

www.tajmahal.bg. Very good tikka<br />

masalas, rogan joshes and other familiar dishes in a relaxing<br />

three-storey location. There are plenty of vegetarian options,<br />

great samosas, decent naan bread and other authentic extras.<br />

Although the soothing orangey interior doesn’t go overboard<br />

with theatrical touches, the same cannot be said for the<br />

background music, with sitar versions of rock classics looping<br />

through the meal. Most expats agree that the food and service<br />

are some of the best in town, although the bill can be a little<br />

difficult to swallow. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-18Lv). PA<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />

Bistro Zita A-5, ul. Iskar 86, tel. 846 43 23/0899 190<br />

586, bistrozita@abv.bg. This small restaurant is one of the<br />

few in the neighbourhood. It has two rooms, each with 4-5<br />

tables and 2 tables outside. The seating is wooden and the<br />

chairs have pretty cushions. The music is chill-out, there is a<br />

TV and the bathroom is clean. The staff are English speaking,<br />

welcoming and fast. They offer salads, grilled meat (try the<br />

ribs or the banski starets), fish, spaghetti, pizza and toasts.<br />

They have an interesting choice of alcoholic and non-alcoholic<br />

cocktails and milk shakes. QOpen 8:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(4.20 - 10.00Lv). JGBSW<br />

Butchers C-5, ul. Sheynovo 4A, tel. 0887 104 378. This<br />

place does indeed look like a butchers’ shop at first glance,<br />

with a bloke in an apron standing behind a counter stocked<br />

with Spanish hams, Mediterranean delicatessen goodies and<br />

fine wines. Behind the counter a private-looking passageway<br />

leads through to a back room filled with distressed furniture<br />

and bohemian-looking wine-quaffing patrons. The menu is<br />

composed of whatever the chef feels like cooking that day:<br />

expect gourmet cold meats, exquisite quiches, and other<br />

Franco-Hispanic treats. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (5-12Lv).<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

restaUrants<br />

Decoding the menu<br />

Starters and salads (предястия и салати)<br />

Shopska salata (шопска салата) – sliced tomato,<br />

cucumber, sweet pepper, onion and grated white sheep’s<br />

cheese<br />

Ovcharska salata (овчарска салата) – tomatoes,<br />

cucumbers, peppers, onions, mushrooms, ham, egg<br />

and cheese<br />

Snezhanka (снежанка) – made of strained yoghurt,<br />

cucumber and garlic<br />

Kyopolu (Aubergine puree) (кьопоолу) – salad of mashed<br />

baked eggplant, peppers, loads of garlic, parsley,<br />

vinegar and sunflower oil<br />

Sudzhuk (суджук), lukanka (луканка), pastarma<br />

(пастърма) – traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n dried salami with<br />

various spices, salt and pepper<br />

Soups (супи)<br />

Tarator (таратор) – cold soup with yoghurt, cucumber,<br />

walnuts and dill. Especially popular in hot summer<br />

Bob chorba (bean soup) (боб чорба) – well soaked dried<br />

beans, a variety of vegetables and plenty of herbs<br />

Shkembe chorba (шкембе чорба) – tripe soup cooked in<br />

milk with garlic, vinegar and chilli<br />

Zelenchukova supa (зеленчукова супа) – vegetable<br />

soup<br />

Meat dishes (ястия с месо)<br />

Kebapche (кебапче) – grilled minced meat rolls<br />

Kyufte (кюфте) – grilled minced meat balls<br />

Shish Kebap (шиш кебап) – grilled skewered meat, onion<br />

and paprika<br />

Meshana skara (мешана скара) – a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n version<br />

of mixed grill<br />

Sarmi (сърми) – cabbage or vines leaves stuffed with<br />

meat<br />

Kavarma (кавърма) – meat and vegetable stew, usually<br />

served in individual pots<br />

Banska kapama (банска капама) – chicken, pork, veal,<br />

cabbage, and rice<br />

Gyuvech (гювеч) – a dish of vegetables and meat baked<br />

in an earthenware pot<br />

Lamb in oven (St. George’s way) (агнешко на фурна) –<br />

lamb stuffed with pluck and rice, cooked in the oven,<br />

served with green salad<br />

Vegetarian dishes (постни ястия)<br />

Sirene po shopski (сирене по шопски) – white sheep’s<br />

cheese baked with eggs<br />

Chushki byurek (чушки бюрек) – fried peppers stuffed<br />

with egg and cheese<br />

Kashkaval pane (кашкавал пане) – fried, breaded<br />

yellow cheese<br />

Banitsa (баница) – flaky pastry filled with white cheese<br />

Kiselo mlyako (кисело мляко) – world famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

yoghurt<br />

Deserts and sweets (десерти)<br />

Crem caramel (крем карамел) – dessert prepared from<br />

fresh milk, eggs and caramelized sugar, similar to the<br />

classic French crème brulee<br />

Baklava (баклава) – flaky pastry stuffed with pistachio<br />

nuts in syrup<br />

Kadaif (кадаиф) – shredded wheat stuffed with nuts<br />

in syrup<br />

January - March 2009<br />

27


28 restaUrants<br />

Cactus C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 20, tel. 986 74 31/0888<br />

801 452, www.restaurant-cactus.com. Despite the distinct<br />

lack of desertson the menu, Cactus earned our seal of<br />

approval with its mainstream European mix of well-prepared<br />

steaks, chicken dishes and pan-fried fish. Low-key lighting and<br />

solid wooden furnishings give the place a relaxing pub-like feel,<br />

and there’s additional seating in a bright covered yard out<br />

the back. Good-value all-you-can-eat buffet for Sunday lunch.<br />

QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00 & 17:00-23:00.<br />

(9-24Lv). PJAW<br />

Comercial C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 27, tel. 0897 931<br />

291/0899 845 085. Modern European cuisine in a modern<br />

European setting: think whitewashed walls, moody lighting,<br />

minimal furnishings and comfy cushioned benches. The fresh<br />

pasta is very good, but main courses are a bit more hit-and-miss<br />

- let’s just say that the duck with orange sauce will get to your<br />

taste buds more quickly than their not-quite-there-yet attempt<br />

at British-style fish and chips. Oh, and portions are on the small<br />

side too. However service is excellent and the location on trendy<br />

Shishman street means that it’s the perfect place for a bite to eat<br />

after shopping for frocks - or before hitting the downtown bars.<br />

QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (10-15Lv). PTJA6GW<br />

Cookies bar & dinner cafe C-3, pl. Slaveykov, tel.<br />

488 17 22. A stylish place, where you can have either lunch<br />

(they offer daily lunch menu) or just drink a cup of coffee. It<br />

is a French-style place, with small tables for two and 3 comfortable<br />

bars. The café is airy enough; the staff is a little bit<br />

bored, but beautiful. There’s a large choice of dishes, good<br />

Mediterranean meals, soups, salads and, of course, cakes<br />

and cookies for dessert. You can just sit here, listening to<br />

Italian music and observe the crowds and the trams outside,<br />

without hearing them - the place is situated at the corner of<br />

a very busy area - just in front of Slaveykov square. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PJ<br />

Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksandar<br />

Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48, www.<br />

elateplaza.com. Glass-fronted bar & diner, stylishly designed<br />

in white and dark red colours, with comfortable modern<br />

furniture. Alongside the traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n specialties,<br />

the restaurant offers a huge international menu of salads<br />

and starters, well-prepared steaks and chicken dishes. The<br />

service is helpful and friendly. It’s a superb place for a relaxed<br />

drink in the evening with its wide range of wines and spirits.<br />

QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (8-25Lv). PALBW<br />

Checkpoint Charly C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12, tel. 988 03 70,<br />

check_charly@abv.bg. With pictures of cold-war Berlin on the<br />

walls, and copies of Rabotnichesko delo (<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communistera<br />

daily newspaper) used as place-mats, you’d be forgiven for<br />

thinking that this was just another ironic post-communist theme<br />

bar. It’s actually a great restaurant, offering superbly prepared<br />

chicken, duck and steak dishes, and some delicious vegetarian<br />

concoctions on the starter menu. There’s live jazz at the weekends,<br />

and few diners leave here disappointed. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 00:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (15-25Lv). PJAEGW<br />

Kushtata s chasovnika B-4, ul. Moskovska 15, tel.<br />

987 56 56/932 75 95, reservations@clockhousebg.<br />

com, www.clockhousebg.com. Occupying the ground floor<br />

of a historic nineteenth-century home (which does indeed<br />

have a clock tower), the “House with the Clock” is probably<br />

the most elegant place you’re likely to eat in downtown Sofia.<br />

Expensive china, liveried wait-staff and an ambitious hautecuisine<br />

menu have made the place popular with <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

celebrities and the foreign business community - you won’t<br />

get in here clad in jeans unless you’re a supermodel. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 24:00. (20-25Lv). PJALB<br />

Mediterraneo B-5, ul. Oborishte 9B, tel. 944 95 82.<br />

Hidden in the courtyard, in what looks like a cosy garden<br />

shed, is this very suave and comfortable eatery specializing<br />

in southern European cuisine. There’s a generous choice of<br />

pastas, veal-cutlet dishes and fish on the menu, backed up<br />

by an attractive range of desserts. Also, it’s one of the rare<br />

restaurants in Sofia where they automatically put a bottle of<br />

real olive oil on the table. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (7-25Lv).<br />

PJAEGBSW<br />

Moderato G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 11. A<br />

couple of kilometres southeast of the centre, Moderato is<br />

worth the trip if you want to savour some of the best pasta<br />

in Sofia, and a top-quality choice of Mediterranean chicken<br />

and fish courses. The second floor seems to be the better<br />

choice in terms of interior - light colours, enough space<br />

between the tables and relaxing atmosphere. The service<br />

was extremely attentive. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (12-20Lv).<br />

PTALSW<br />

Otvud aleyata zad shkafa A-3, ul. Budapeshta 31,<br />

tel. 983 55 45, www.beyond-the-alley.com. If we were<br />

to give prizes for atmosphere, this restaurant would be the<br />

undisputable winner. The eccentric name, which literally<br />

means “beyond the alley, behind the cupboard”, is indicative<br />

of the place’s quirky nature. The combination of art-nouveau<br />

interior design and friendly informal service has made Otvud<br />

a firm favourite with Sofia’s artistic elite. The menu is sometimes<br />

a touch over-imaginative for its own good, and you’re<br />

advised to stick to mainstream meat and fish dishes if you<br />

want to get the best out of the place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

(10-20Lv). PA<br />

Seasons D-2, Hilton, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 933 50 62. As<br />

you’d expect from an expensive restaurant in an international<br />

hotel chain, standards here are consistently high. The modern<br />

European cuisine is as well prepared as they come, the<br />

service is flawless, and the setting strikes the right balance<br />

between comfort and elegance. QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.<br />

(20-30Lv). PAL<br />

Trikrakoto pile B-2, ul. Denkoglu 3, tel. 986 26<br />

53/0884 587 418. Situated on a quiet street, not far from<br />

the bustle of bul. Vitosha, this tightly packed suite of rooms<br />

with no-nonsense wooden furniture is a relaxing and informal<br />

venue for lunch or dinner with friends. The name means<br />

‘three-legged chicken’ which explains the strong presence of<br />

chicken dishes on the menu. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Closed<br />

Sun. (8-12Lv). PJAW<br />

Troyantsite B-5, ul. Shipka 46, tel. 944 19 34, www.<br />

troyancite.com. Relaxing restaurant on two storeys with<br />

soothing creamy-brown décor and eager-to-please staff.<br />

An international menu of steaks, grilled chicken and freshwater<br />

fish dishes is augmented by a well-chosen selection<br />

of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n specialities - the dzholan (leg of beef baked<br />

in a pot) and grilled buffalo meat balls are hard to fault.<br />

Vegetarians should opt for the zapekanka (tasty cheese<br />

and spinach bake). QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(6-12Lv). PJABW<br />

Uno Enoteca C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 45, tel. 981<br />

43 72/981 46 13, enoteca@uno-sofia.com, www.<br />

uno-sofia.com. Modern European cuisine of the highest<br />

order, served in elegant surroundings and backed up<br />

by a truly international selection of quality wines. With<br />

irreproachable standards of service and a conveniently<br />

central location, this ranks as one of the best restaurants<br />

in the city. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (12-35Lv). PJA<br />

LGBW<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Vishnite D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski 45, tel. 963 49<br />

84/0899 866 730. This tiny, four-table restaurant, located<br />

in a residential area just south of the centre, is a firm favourite<br />

with <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns who know a thing or two about food, so it’s<br />

wise to book before heading out. Expect flawless service,<br />

elegantly-laid tables piled with classy cutlery and glassware,<br />

and a small but well-chosen menu of modern European dishes,<br />

prepared with flair and imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />

(18-30Lv). PA<br />

Vratata (The Door) D-3, ul. Kokiche 13, tel. 0889<br />

235 866/866 90 05, vratata@restaurant-vratata.<br />

com, www.restaurant-vratata.com. The restaurant<br />

is situated in a 100-year old house. Very elegant, cozy<br />

and stylish place where, as the owners say, “East meets<br />

West”. Varied cuisine such as game dishes, different kinds<br />

of European, Greek and Turkish meals and a number of<br />

sophisticated salads and desserts. The wine list is rich<br />

with Argentinean, Italian, Spanish and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wines.<br />

The staff are polite, without being slavish. An interesting<br />

and intimate detail is the key. Each client puts their key for<br />

The Door over the fireplace. There are different keys varied<br />

from big and old to small and ordinary. The atmosphere<br />

reproduces the aristocratic, bohemian face of old Sofia.<br />

Among the clients of the restaurant is His Majesty Simeon<br />

Saks - Koburg -Gotha, of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n royal family. This is<br />

a place, where you can find elegance, personal treatment<br />

and good cuisine. For sure you will be back. QOpen 11:00<br />

- 24:00. (15-60Lv). PAIGB<br />

Zhadnata lamya D-3, ul. 13-ti mart 2, tel. 964 06 40.<br />

The name means “Thirsty Dragon”, which we took as an immediate<br />

invitation to down several flagons of the excellent<br />

Czech Starobrno beer which is served on tap here. The food<br />

is a mixture of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and central European meat dishes,<br />

but the real pleasure of dining here comes from the friendly<br />

service and homely décor (note the fabulously eccentric<br />

picture gallery lining the walls), all of which adds to a highly<br />

enjoyable atmosphere. Some of the Mexican dishes on the<br />

menu are a bit disappointing, so its best to stick to the<br />

mainstream meat offerings and the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n salads. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 24:00. (6-24Lv). PB<br />

Italian<br />

Alga B-2, ul. Lavele 11, tel. 980 24 89/0888 81 19 80,<br />

alga@abv.bg, www.alga.free.bg. Somewhat hidden behind<br />

the BulBank building at the bottom of Vitosha Boulevard, this<br />

cute little Italian restaurant is well worth a visit. It’s run by<br />

Georgio & Russistza, a man and wife team and their Sardinian<br />

chef. They will give you a very homely reception before<br />

you tuck into the complimentary olive pesto and homemade<br />

bread. There are only 20 seats, so booking is highly advised.<br />

The restaurant has a very romantic air and would be a lovely<br />

place for a special occasion. The food is superb and the<br />

service is excellent. They have a fantastic wine list to go with<br />

the simple yet exciting menu. There is a garden for the summer<br />

months which quickly removes you from the downtown<br />

hassle. All in all, a lovely place and well worth a visit. Prices<br />

are slightly above average. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-12Lv).<br />

PJALBS<br />

Gioia B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 60, tel. 986 08 54, festaitaliana@abv.bg,<br />

www.festaitaliana-bg.com. It is<br />

the perfect place to enjoy Italian cuisine with ingredients<br />

imported directly from Italy and desserts, prepared on the<br />

spot. It has a decade of serving clients, behind their backs.<br />

They have both a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and Italian menus and the staff<br />

speaks English, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and Italian. It seems the owner<br />

is quite concerned if his clients are satisfied by food and<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

restaUrants<br />

service. The restaurant has 60 seats and is calm, with a<br />

friendly atmosphere. The menu offers fresh pasta, fish and<br />

seafood specialties and the wine list ranges from 30 to<br />

70 Lv. Gioia is definitely on the leading spot in Sofia, when<br />

thinking of Italian food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. pasta (14-<br />

35Lv). PAGB<br />

Japanese<br />

Sakura G-7, Kempinski Hotel Zografski, bul. Dzheims<br />

Bauchar 100, tel. 969 24 20. This rather charming place<br />

is located in a pavilion in the garden of the Kempinski hotel.<br />

It’s approached over a very picturesque bridge that you might<br />

expect to see adorning a set of willow-pattern crockery. Paper<br />

partitions, low tables (you can kneel on cushions or sit on a<br />

stepped depression under the table) and nimble waitresses<br />

swishing around in kimonos help to set the mood. Assuming<br />

that you haven’t the time to fly to Tokyo and dine out there,<br />

the impressive range of sushi and main courses is authentic<br />

enough. A full meal with sake will set you back a small<br />

fortune by Sofia standards, but for a great evening out with<br />

a difference, it’s money well spent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.<br />

(15-30Lv). PALGW<br />

Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Denkoglu 18, tel. 981 84 42. Conveniently<br />

situated just around the corner from the fashionable<br />

shops of bul. Vitosha, this smart but affordable oriental eatery<br />

offers a lengthy menu of different types of sushi, all excellently<br />

prepared and accompanied with portions of fresh ginger and<br />

wasabe paste. Ordering a set menu will allow you to sample<br />

a broad range of what they offer. Noodle soups and teriyaki<br />

dishes also available. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30. (3.50-37Lv).<br />

PAGW<br />

Lebanese<br />

Tazka C-1, bul. Makedonia 48, tel. 951 54 29. We took<br />

both a vegetarian and a carnivore to this friendly restaurant<br />

and both came away very happy indeed. The animal lover<br />

feasted on starters like houmous, baba ganouj, a delicately<br />

spiced aubergine and tomato salad, and fatayer (spinach<br />

pies), while her companion’s bloodlust was more than satiated<br />

by the fatteh (chicken, chick peas and herbs covered in<br />

yoghurt). The arak (an aniseed-flavoured spirit which turns<br />

cloudy when you add water) went down very well indeed. Live<br />

music and belly dancing pulls in the crowds at weekends, so<br />

be sure to book ahead. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.<br />

(18-20Lv). PG<br />

Moroccan<br />

Annette C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 27, tel. 980 40 98/088<br />

513 9676, www.annette.bg. A combination of North African<br />

music, flickering candlelight and star-shaped lanterns should<br />

lull you into the perfect frame of mind to enjoy an authentic<br />

Moroccan menu which takes in tajini, couscous and some lush<br />

healthy salads. Finish off with Moroccan mint tea with cedar<br />

nuts, or a lengthy puff on the narghile. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />

(8-18Lv). PJAGBSW<br />

Pizza<br />

Classic B-3, ul. Serdika 14, tel. 0878 656 401, classicpizza1@abv.bg,<br />

www.pizzabg.com. Classic’s simple<br />

recipe of serving palatable pizzas, fresh salads and a handful<br />

of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n dishes has already proved a hit with locals who<br />

don’t want challenging cuisine, but still expect a bit of finesse<br />

as far as service and presentation are concerned. Reasonable<br />

prices, friendly service and dependable standards.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-20Lv). PJA6GBW<br />

January - March 2009<br />

29


30 restaUrants<br />

Fast food<br />

Bakehouse B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12. Bright and clean<br />

bakery-cum-cafe serving up banitsa and byurek (<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

flaky pastries) filled with cheese, spinach and other<br />

savouries. Wash them down with a carton of airyan (salty<br />

drinking yoghurt). QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />

18:00. Closed Sun. S<br />

KFC B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 28, www.<br />

kfc.bg. For delivery call 933 99 99. Also at B-3 ul. Angel<br />

Kanchev 2, B-3, bul. Dondukov 5. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJLB<br />

Kuhnyata na mama C-3, ul. Racho Dimchov 3.<br />

Queue up at the counter for tasty dollops of home cooking<br />

from “Mum’s Kitchen”. Slightly pricier than the other fast<br />

food places, but usually worth it. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. G<br />

McDonald’s Rock’n’Roll D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1,<br />

next to NDK, tel. 0884 000 305/960 40 20, www.<br />

mcdonalds.bg. Restaurant with Juke box, McDrive, found<br />

just next to NDK (National Palace of Culture), under the<br />

Lover’s bridge. On the 14th of Feb they organize 24 hour<br />

Rock’n’Roll marriage with McDonald’s certificate, a Cadillac<br />

drive and surprise present. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

PTJAGBS<br />

Mimas C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 68. Sofia’s first real<br />

takeaway burger joint and still the best. It’s packed at<br />

lunchtimes and remains the venue of choice for after-club<br />

munchies. Burgers come with a wad of deliciously greasy<br />

French fries stuffed inside. Doner kebabs and felafel fill<br />

out the menu. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JS<br />

Trops Kushta C-4, ul. Gurko 38, www.tropshouse.<br />

bg. If you want a crash course in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine<br />

then this ever-reliable order-at-the-counter canteen will<br />

have mass-catering versions of most Balkan dishes on<br />

display. It may be lukewarm, but it’s cheap. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 21:00. JG<br />

Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Head to the<br />

top floor of this covered market to find an array of counters<br />

serving sandwiches, pizza slices, basic grills, and Chinese<br />

noodles. There is no quicker and easier way of stuffing<br />

your face. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PG<br />

Don Domat C-2, ul. Tsar Asen 34, tel. 984 12 70,<br />

don_domat@abv.bg, www.dondomat.com. The name<br />

of the restaurant comes from one of the characters in “The<br />

Adventures of Lukcho” by Gianni Rodari. This small chain<br />

of restaurants all have a cozy and relaxing atmosphere,<br />

careful service and a varied menu. The owners have taken<br />

care to suit all tastes. <strong>In</strong> the “Don Tomato travel” section<br />

you can find dishes from around the world,”Don Tomato<br />

weakening” is for clients undergoing a diet. They also offer<br />

a wide variety of beer and wine. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.<br />

(8-12Lv). PJGBW<br />

Krivoto D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, in subway of NDK, tel.<br />

0885 878 485, krivoto1@abv.bg, www.krivoto.com.<br />

The newest pizzeria of the Krivoto chain is located in a key<br />

position in the subway of the NDK. Here you can enjoy lovely<br />

music and good food. On the menu there is a rich choice of<br />

pasta, pizza and other main courses. The staff are polite,<br />

smiling and uphold the standards of the Krivoto chain. The<br />

pizzeria has outside seating for 50 and inside seating for<br />

150. The interior is quite simple and clean. QOpen 10:30 -<br />

24:00. pizza ( 4-8Lv), pasta (6-7Lv), main courses (6-18Lv).<br />

PJAGB<br />

Miss Kapriz B-3, pl. Garibaldi, info@misskapriz.com,<br />

www.misskapriz.com. Bright and breezy city-centre pizzeria<br />

popular with lunching shoppers. The pizzas are ordinary in the<br />

extreme, but if your priority is to stuff yourself with low-cost<br />

food in a pleasant environment, you can’t go far wrong. For<br />

delivery you can order by phoning 9 12 60 or online. QOpen<br />

10:30 - 24:00. (6-15Lv). PJA<br />

Mon Ami Hipodruma, ul. Bulair 1, tel. 850 60 60/0888<br />

71 88 77, cgs@abv.bg, www.pizza-monami.com. The<br />

main salon for 50 is arranged with wooden tables and bench<br />

seating. The garden area for 70 has wooden seating, a<br />

fountain and big parasols. There is a barbeque and a show<br />

kitchen. They serve pizza and international dishes. Try the<br />

sach (vegetables or meat roasted on hot plate) or the Veal Oso<br />

Buko specialty. No English menus and the staff have limited<br />

English. The cuisine is good and the atmosphere is pleasant.<br />

Order using sign language or use decoding the menu section<br />

on p. 27.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (5-16Lv). PABS<br />

O! Shipka B-5, ul. Shipka 11, tel. 944 92 88, oshipka@<br />

oshipka.net, www.oshipka.net. Rich and varied choice of<br />

pizzas and salads with a few grilled meats and Mexican dishes<br />

fill out the menu. Reasonably pleasant staff, fun surroundings,<br />

and a satisfyingly tangy lasagne that had us coming back a<br />

second time. For delivery you can order by phone 988 87 88.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (5-10Lv). PAEGS<br />

Ugo C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 988 18 92, ugo_@abv.<br />

bg, www.ugo.bg. With matt black tables illuminated from<br />

designer lampshades this is as groovy a place to tuck into<br />

pizzas as you’ll find in Sofia. The pizzas themselves aren’t<br />

any better than elsewhere though; they might have Italian<br />

names but that’s as near to the Mediterranean as it gets.<br />

Huge salads provide lots of veggie options. Other branches<br />

at C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68; and C-3, ul. Han Krum 2. 24 hr<br />

home deliveries at 986 40 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

(5-17Lv). PAGW<br />

Victoria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 986 32 00,<br />

www.victoria.bg. This is many people’s favourite pizzeria in<br />

Sofia due to its generously proportioned pizzas and reasonably<br />

high standards (the dough tastes sort-of Italian even<br />

if the toppings don’t). Soups, pastas and grilled <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

staples help to fill out the menu. Tends to get crowded, and<br />

you might have to wait for a table. Also at G-8 ul. Ivan Asen II<br />

66. City-wide deliveries on tel. 911 00 and tel. 0887 911 000.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-27Lv). PJAB<br />

Russian<br />

Moskva B-3, ul. Lege 2, tel. 980 24 24/0896 860 340,<br />

moskva_@abv.bg, www.moskva.bg. This is the sort of<br />

place which will make you feel totally decadent almost as<br />

soon as you walk in to be welcomed by a crimson carpet,<br />

cherry curtains, elegant staff and live music being played on<br />

a grand piano with violin accompaniment. The music, posh<br />

surroundings, first-class service, and excellent food all combine<br />

to create an atmosphere that will transport you back in<br />

time to imperial Tsarist Russia. You are only to be reminded of<br />

the present by the latest bathroom technology and a waiter<br />

hinting the tip is not included in the bill. Expensive, but not<br />

excessively so, and although some of the wine costs far<br />

more than a main course your “nazdrave” will produce a dull<br />

sound, definitely not the cling of crystal glasses. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 24:00. (6-35Lv). PE<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Ruski klub E-3, ul. Lozenska planina 22, tel. 866 50<br />

74/0888 626 994. An unpretentious doorway on a quiet<br />

residential street leads through to this cosy little place where<br />

you’ll be soothed by friendly service and lilting Russian<br />

melodies. Embark on a round of vodkas accompanied by<br />

selyodka (marinated fish) before moving on to the gorgeous,<br />

home-made pelmeni (meat-filled dumplings). Whether you<br />

have any space left for classic Russian dishes like Beef<br />

Stroganoff or the excellent range of sweets is up to you.<br />

QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(8-30Lv). AGBS<br />

Vagabond G-8, ul. Svetoslav Terter 5, tel. 944 14 65.<br />

This is one of those warm and intimate places where you feel<br />

as if you are dining in someone’s living room while a family<br />

friend busies themselves in the kitchen. Sashed velvet curtains<br />

and curious murals of balloons in flight provide added<br />

atmosphere. The menu is European-meets-<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n with<br />

a healthy number of Russian favourites thrown in: a round<br />

of vodka with marinated herrings on toast is the obligatory<br />

way to kick off the evening. The pelmeni are excellent too.<br />

Recommended main courses include Chicken Kiev and<br />

Moscow Cutlets (cheese and ham wrapped in pork then<br />

breadcrumbed), although there’s a lot more besides. Mains<br />

are served with an optional variety of weird and wonderful<br />

sauces such as a delicious green sauce flavoured with<br />

spinach and basil. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(8-26Lv). JIGBS<br />

Seafood<br />

Captain Cook C-1, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 12-14, tel.<br />

954 90 98/0888 181 068, www.captaincook.bg. Fish<br />

dishes in Sofia’s mainstream restaurants generally leave<br />

a lot to be desired, so it’s nice to have specialist places<br />

like Captain Cook’s around. It’s in a slightly out-of-the-way<br />

location, but the delicious range of grilled and pan-fried fish<br />

- both fresh- and saltwater varities - should make the trip<br />

worthwhile. Fish is priced by the 100g - so don’t rush to order<br />

until you’ve inspected what’s available in the chiller cabinet<br />

and asked a member of staff to plonk it on the scales. Rather<br />

pricy, but absolutely superb quality. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.<br />

(10-35Lv). AGB<br />

Tambuktu B-4, ul. Aksakov 10, tel. 988 12 34, info@<br />

tambuktu.com, www.tambuktu.com. A concrete firstfloor<br />

cabin stuffed with palm trees and fish tanks, this is a<br />

flamboyantly kitsch setting in which to enjoy good-quality fish<br />

and seafood. The food is prepared in front of the customers<br />

and you can choose the fish from a special window display.<br />

The service is adequate and helpful. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

(25-30Lv). PAW<br />

Serbian<br />

Pri Miro G-8, ul. Murphy 34, tel. 943 71 27/889<br />

512 964, www.restaurantmiro.com. Both Serbia and<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> share a similar culinary repertoire of grilled meats<br />

- it’s just that the Serbians do it with more style. The<br />

cevapcici (grilled meat rissoles) and pleskavice (minced<br />

meat patties) on offer at Miro’s are infinitely more succulent<br />

and spicy than anything you’ll find in a traditional<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n joint. Ajvar (a relish made from aubergines<br />

and hot peppers) makes the ideal accompaniment, and<br />

there’s an irresistible range of fiery plum brandies to wash<br />

it all down. Both service and atmosphere are classy, and<br />

an extra personal touch is provided by chef and owner<br />

Miro himself, who likes to circulate among diners to see<br />

who is enjoying what. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-12Lv).<br />

PLGBS<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

restaUrants<br />

Out of town<br />

Boyansko hanche H-6, pl. Sborishte, Boyana, tel.<br />

856 30 16, fax 955 04 61. Situated in the heart of<br />

the mountainside suburb of Boyana, not far from the<br />

historic Boyana Church, Boyansko hanche is a longstanding<br />

favourite among visitors, not least because<br />

it’s one of the handful of places in the capital where<br />

you can enjoy a reasonably authentic programme of<br />

folk songs and dances. Performances usually start<br />

at 9pm but not necessarily on every night of the<br />

week - so phone beforehand if you’re going specifically<br />

because of the music. The menu of traditional<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n fare with international-looking steaks doesn’t<br />

pull too many surprises, but doesn’t inspire many<br />

complaints either. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-15Lv).<br />

PTRILEB<br />

Chepishev H-6, ul. Ivanitsa Danchev 27, Boyana,<br />

tel. 959 10 10/0889 051 115, chepishev@netissat.<br />

bg, www.chepishev.com. Consistently good food and<br />

no-expense-spared interior design have helped make<br />

Chepishev one of the city’s landmark restaurants.<br />

Traditional-style fireplaces and natural materials such as<br />

stone, wood and wrought iron lend an air of cosiness and<br />

originality to the main dining room. There’s a panoramic<br />

summer terrace too, although proximity to the road<br />

detracts slightly from the desired romantic effect. The<br />

menu changes frequently, but always includes a choice<br />

of traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n dishes based on old family recipes,<br />

and a well-chosen selection of modern European<br />

fare. The home-made bread is a must. The wine list is<br />

one of the best in the city, and the restaurant famously<br />

claims to possess the biggest whisky collection in<br />

Eastern Europe - with over 800 brands listed, we’re<br />

not going to argue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (9-48Lv).<br />

PAILEW<br />

Lebed ul. Samokovsko shose 83, Pancharevo, tel.<br />

992 30 45, fax 992 34 65, info@restaurantlebed.<br />

com. Five kilometers south of the Coral Swimming<br />

Complex, Lebed (“The Swan”) was opened in 1961 as<br />

part of the preparations for that year’s World Student<br />

Games, and has enjoyed near-legendary status ever<br />

since. Once the place where <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s top pop stars<br />

used to entertain diners, it fell into decline until recent<br />

refurbishments provided the old bird with a new lease<br />

of culinary life. The menu (providing you can negotiate<br />

your way through the spelling mistakes) features a<br />

lot of seafood and freshwater fish, although prices<br />

are on the steep side and staff are not noted for their<br />

speed of service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40Lv).<br />

PALGBW<br />

Vodenitzata Dragalevtsi (next to the chairlift), tel.<br />

967 10 58/0888 818 518, fax 967 50 07, info@<br />

vodenizata.com. Housed in an old mill near the Dragalevtsi<br />

chairlift, Vodenitsata is one of those restaurants<br />

that’s a destination in its own right. The stone clad<br />

interior is crammed with folksy ornamentation, and the<br />

cuisine consists of superbly prepared and presented<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n classics. The breezy garden, complete with<br />

water features, turtles and fish, is a great place to while<br />

away a hot summer afternoon. Every night a folklore ensemble<br />

provides a thrilling repertoire of traditional songs<br />

and dances, occasionally featuring nestinari dancing<br />

on live coals - don’t try and join in no matter how many<br />

rakiyas you’ve had. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-20Lv).<br />

ALEB<br />

January - March 2009<br />

31


32 restaUrants<br />

Wine, beer, rakia or boza…<br />

what to drink in <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> has some typical drinks which can be found<br />

only here, and some that have a similar (but not the<br />

same) equivalent abroad. If you come to <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, we<br />

recommend you to try some of these:<br />

Alcoholic drinks:<br />

• <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wine, which is exported to many European<br />

countries. It is very tasty, with various sorts, some of<br />

which are typical only for this region. We recommend<br />

Mavrud (this sort of wine cannot be found anywhere<br />

else) – a strong dark wine, suitable for red meat and cold<br />

winter evenings. Despite the good quality, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wine<br />

is not expensive and is very appropriate for a present<br />

from a holiday in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />

• <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n beer: many regions have their local beers,<br />

most of them with a typical genuine taste, so we suggest<br />

you choose from:<br />

Blagoevgrad Strumsko pivo<br />

Burgas Burgasko pivo, Slavena<br />

Lom Almus, Shopsko, Sofia<br />

Mezdra Ledenika, MM, Varna, Haberman<br />

Pleven Storgozia, Ataman, Pleven<br />

Plovdiv Kamenitsa (Light, Extra, Dark, Red and<br />

Soft), Astika<br />

Shumen Pirinsko, Shumensko<br />

Sofia Kmetsko (Light, Wheat, Red, Dark)<br />

Stara Zagora Zagorka, Ariana, Stolichno<br />

Veliko Tarnovo Nashensko, Balkan, Bolyarka<br />

• Rakia is often compared to brandy or tequila, but its<br />

not like anything else. Usually most <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns drink it<br />

in the evening, before or during the meal, accompanied<br />

by salad or pickles. It SHOULDN’T be drunk like tequila,<br />

but slowly, sipping, with delight. Most common types<br />

are grape and plum rakia. We recommend you also try<br />

the fig and pear rakia, if you have the chance, which is<br />

unusually aromatic.<br />

• Almond liquer (which is slightly similar to amaretto,<br />

but different). It is quite sweet and is recommended<br />

unlimited consumption; however reasonable drinking is<br />

extremely pleasant.<br />

• Mastika (similar to ouzo and absinthe, but should be<br />

drunk in a different manner: either with ayran or tarator<br />

(see <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n food section), or with mint liqueur (VERY<br />

good cocktail for sea evenings, however very strong and<br />

can be dangerous for inexperienced drinkers. Actually it<br />

doesn’t give you a feeling that you’re getting drunk; you<br />

just suddenly realize that this is a fact.) This drink contains<br />

anise and has a sweet flavour.<br />

Soft drinks:<br />

• Boza (actually with Turkish origin, but the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns<br />

drink it for so many years that it can be considered local).<br />

It is prepared from fermented wheat or millet. Its colour is<br />

beige and its taste is sweet-sour taste (some foreigners<br />

find it quite peculiar).<br />

• <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n yogurt (this is different from any other yogurt;<br />

people have tried to export the world famous lactobacillus<br />

bulgaricus (named so because it was discovered in<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>); the result was a different taste.)<br />

• Ayran (traditional local drink prepared from yogurt, salt,<br />

water, sometimes pepper). This is a very refreshing drink<br />

good both for heat and chill.<br />

Swiss<br />

Chalet Suisse G-9, bul. Botevgradsko shose 50, tel.<br />

0884 249 450, info@chaletsuisse.eu, www.chaletsuisse.<br />

eu. A must visit place for all cheese lovers. <strong>In</strong> case you are new<br />

to this kind of cuisine, no worries, the friendly staff will help you<br />

out and maybe even the Swiss owners themselves. They offer<br />

traditional Swiss cheese-fondue, Kirschli, swiss salads, Beundnerfleisch,<br />

deer steak, baked apples and more. The restaurant<br />

indeed looks like a Chalet with wooden seating. Once inside you<br />

will forget the surrounding neighbourhood blocks. Not far from<br />

the centre, on the road to Varna. After the Eko Petroleum gas<br />

station turn right, you can not miss it. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (8-25Lv.).<br />

Vegetarian<br />

Dream House B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 980 81 63,<br />

dreamhouse_bg@yahoo.com, www.dreamhouse-bg.<br />

com. This bright and cheery first-floor restaurant is initially<br />

a bit difficult to find: once you’ve entered the small shopping<br />

mall at ul. Alabin 50 you need to pass through the white door<br />

on your left and proceed up the murky stairwell. Dishes range<br />

from a deliciously delicate bamboo soup to savoury spinach<br />

balls, and tofu in various sauces. Flavours are on the bland<br />

side - our biryani needed a jug-full of chilli sauce to help it go<br />

down. On Sunday afternoons there’s an all-you-can-eat buffet<br />

for 7 leva. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (7Lv). PAGW<br />

Kibea C-3, ul. Dr. G. Valkovich 2A, tel. 980 30 67, www.<br />

kibea.net. There’s always at least one meat dish on the<br />

menu at this upmarket healthfood restaurant, but its the<br />

exquisitely prepared vegan and macrobiotic dishes that get<br />

top billing. The cool minimalism of the interior provides the<br />

perfect environment in which to focus on the classy concoctions<br />

which have made head chef Elliot Prag something of a<br />

local celebrity. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7-40Lv).<br />

PAG<br />

Have <strong>Your</strong> Say<br />

If you have had an experience to remember at any of<br />

the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly<br />

or downright sad, let the two million regular unique<br />

visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com,<br />

know about it. Every venue on our website now has<br />

a module below it for you to comment on the places<br />

we write about. You can agree or disagree with us,<br />

scold us or praise us, but do give us your feedback,<br />

its essential!<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


34 CafÉs<br />

Art Club Museum B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 980 66 64, museum2006@abv.bg.<br />

Hidden away in a semi-submerged annexe<br />

of the archaeological museum, this is the ideal place to take a<br />

breather between bouts of sightseeing. Alongside coffee and<br />

cakes there’s a full menu of salads, snacks and alcoholic drinks,<br />

making it a good spot for a leisurely lunch. Don’t leave without<br />

taking a look at the downstairs no-smoking area - with comfy<br />

chairs positioned beside artfully-lit Roman gravestones. It looks<br />

like a cross between a lounge club and a recently excavated<br />

tomb (although whether any wait-staff ever make it down here is<br />

another question). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PABW<br />

Before & After C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60<br />

88/0889 966 689, beforeandafter@abv.bg, ba.clubcabaret.net.<br />

With art-nouveau wall decorations, and furniture<br />

that wouldn’t look out of place in nineteenth-century<br />

Paris, this place is a world away from central Sofia. Expect<br />

coffee strong enough to give an elephant heart palpitations,<br />

luxuriant hot chocolate, and an appetizing range of salads and<br />

snacks. The place is frequently taken over by tango lessons<br />

in the evening, which helps explain the alluring photographs<br />

of buttock-waggling dancers adorning the walls. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 24:00. (3.50 - 7.00Lv). PTJAR<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 4, tel. 988 53 07. Taking<br />

up most of the ground floor of the Grand Hotel <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, this<br />

is a comfortable and rather stately place in which to overdose<br />

on caffeine and sweets. Slightly more expensive than average,<br />

but well worth bearing in mind if you’re planning a posh citycentre<br />

rendezvous. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTJAW<br />

Coffee House B-4, ul. 6-i septemvri 1, tel. 986 66 12.<br />

Modern-style coffee-shop with a decent line in drink-in or<br />

takeaway espressos, lattes, mochas and the rest. Mouthwatering<br />

cakes and freshly-made sandwiches are superior<br />

to the standardised fare on offer at some of Sofia’s other<br />

high-street coffee shops. Vivid comic-book murals by graphic<br />

artist Yasen Zgurovski give the Coffee House an absolutely<br />

unique vibe. Also at H-8, Business Park Sofia. QOpen 07:30<br />

- 20:00. PJBW<br />

Costa Coffee B-3, ul. Aleksandar Batenberg 10B. This<br />

lovely place located close to the entrance of the City garden<br />

and Ivan Vazov National Theatre is part of the world famous<br />

coffee shop chain. Excellent coffee, cakes, easy listening music<br />

and the usual set of cafe snacks. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30,<br />

Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. PJABW<br />

Fix Mix C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 24, tel. 987 31 71, fixmix.<br />

culture@gmail.com, www.fixmix-culture.com. City-centre<br />

juice bar boasting over 30 different fresh-fruit concoctions. Drinks<br />

with names such as Berry White, Macy Grapefruit and Tangerine<br />

Cream should appeal to the music obsessives among you. The<br />

interior is as fresh and funky as the drinks, with citrus colours<br />

predominating, and a mixture of house and break-beat music<br />

provide a suitable snazzy soundtrack. You can choose to rotate<br />

on one of the silver swivel-stools at ground level or flop in one of<br />

the sofas situated on a raised platform. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJGSW<br />

Jimmy’s (Sladoledena kushta) C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev<br />

11, tel. 980 30 99, daskalova@jimmys.bg, www.jimmys.<br />

bg. This stylishly furnished little spot is the best place in town<br />

for grossing out on fresh, well-made ice cream. Some of the<br />

fancier items on the menu feature ambitious flavour combinations<br />

that don’t really come off, so it’s best to stick to the<br />

scoops you can see in the chiller cabinet. The mouth-watering<br />

range of cakes and hot drinks will not leave you disappointed.<br />

Home deliveries at tel. 854 88 88. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PTGBS<br />

Laguna (Vienski salon) C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 13, tel.<br />

980 30 01, www.laguna-bg.com. Welcoming two-tier café<br />

whose in-your-face kitsch furnishings will leave you grasping<br />

for words fit to describe them. Our editor compared this place<br />

to a mid-seventies Dr Who set, but his glamorous assistant<br />

was too busy screaming to take any notice. This is a great<br />

place to come and pig out on pancakes but not everything in<br />

the picture-book menu is quite as it seems: the non-alcoholic<br />

fruit cocktail drinks taste as if they’ve been poured straight<br />

out of a carton (but then with names like “Virgin Sex on the<br />

Beach” they seem destined to leave you unfulfilled). QOpen<br />

10:30 - 24:00. (4-10Lv). PJG<br />

Lavazza Club B-2, bul. Vitosha 13, tel. 987 34 33/0887<br />

979 890, www.clublavazza.com. Situated in downtown<br />

Sofia this place is already crowded since early in the morning.<br />

Its two floors, charming garden and young pretty waitresses<br />

obviously make it a preferred location by everybody from<br />

young couples to business people and foreigners alike. The<br />

menu list offers a big selection of coffee, cappuccino, cocktails,<br />

sandwiches and fresh pastries and creams. Yummy.<br />

QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. PABW<br />

London Minute B-2, ul. Pozitano 7. <strong>In</strong>ternational-styled<br />

coffee and juice bar that’s perfect for jump-starting your day.<br />

Ciabatta sandwiches, muffins, cookies and more. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Lucky (Vienska sladkarnitsa) C-5, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel<br />

21, tel. 943 33 44/0889 506 251. Bright, roomy<br />

and rather elegant café with a generous choice of fancy<br />

cakes and other sinful goodies. Floor-to-ceiling windows<br />

make this a good vantage point from which to observe the<br />

traffic pulsing across the Orlov bridge. Waitresses dressed in<br />

fetching Bulgaro-Tyrolean dirndls help to complete the picture.<br />

QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PJAW<br />

Onda Coffee Break B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8, tel.<br />

987 49 20. This coffee bar is a bright, comfortable and really<br />

quite groovy place offering order-at-the-counter lattes,<br />

macchiatos, muffins, cookies, and other comfortingly familiar<br />

concoctions. Surprisingly for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, the sandwiches in the<br />

chiller cabinet are actually edible. The upstairs lounge comes<br />

with a great view of the Russian Church and its pimply bouquet<br />

of domes. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. (5-10Lv). PJGW<br />

Starbucks café C-4, Corner of ul. Gurko and bul. Vasil<br />

Levski, tel. 986 32 94. When you enter the newly opened<br />

Starbucks café you may forget that you are in Sofia - it looks<br />

exactly the way it looks all over the world and what you expect<br />

it to be - coffee aroma, young staff and loads of delicious cakes.<br />

There are seven tables outside, where even in winter you<br />

can enjoy your coffee break, despite the awful traffic around.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. PJGBW<br />

The Bookies C-1, ul. Dospat 37, tel. 851 90 87. Great<br />

little place directly across from the NDK, off Vitosha Boulevard.<br />

One of, if not the, finest gardens in Sofia. Beautifully<br />

enclosed just off the boulevard, the garden was designed<br />

by the owner and she has created a real beauty. Wooden<br />

2 seater swing, a couple of trees, plenty of sundry flora<br />

and greenery augment the directors chairs and sofas. It’s a<br />

beautiful sun trap too with some great shade. They knock<br />

up a fabulous Mojito, amongst other cocktails, and they do a<br />

really top coffee. The garden seats about 40. The bar inside<br />

is a lovely little place. It seats about 20 and has a real coffee<br />

house atmosphere with bookshelves on the walls. The locals<br />

will greet guests with open arms, and much fun has apparently<br />

been had down The Bookies. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat,<br />

Sun 09:30 - 24:00. JBW<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Sofia is simply swarming with quirky watering holes, cool<br />

designer bars and dance-till-you-disintegrate clubs. Just<br />

try not to get carried away.<br />

Bars<br />

Adams Bar A-5, ul. Vrabcha 28. This is a small heavy<br />

metal pub in the centre of the capital. The heavy sound of<br />

thrash, death and black metal makes the stay there a real<br />

feast for the connoisseurs. Friendly staff, extensive variety<br />

of cold beer, foosball and darts guarantee the great mood<br />

of the guests. Usually between 20 and 22h it gets quite<br />

overcrowded.<br />

Adams restaurant B-2, Tsar Samuil 103 (The corner of<br />

ul. Pirotska ). This is a bar-restaurant with heavy metal music.<br />

Its location is very central - in the middle of Pirotska street<br />

market. The cuisine is very good, especially Tripe in butter.<br />

The atmosphere is friendly and cozy and food and beverages<br />

are not expensive. Just the opposite of luxurious.<br />

Apartament 52 C-3, ul. Parchevich 52, tel. 0896 652<br />

087. Sinking into the comfy corner sofas of this lounge bar is<br />

a pleasant way to end a hard day pacing the mean streets of<br />

central Sofia, although there never seems quite enough going<br />

on here to keep you for more than a couple of drinks. A good<br />

place to kick-start the evening before moving on elsewhere.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW<br />

Apartment C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68, tel. 0886 655 093.<br />

There’s nowhere else quite like this spacious, high-ceilinged<br />

nineteenth-century flat, each room of which is decked out with<br />

the kind of artworks and furnishings that you’d expect to find in<br />

the home of a slightly wacky friend. There’s an internet terminal<br />

in one lounge, play-your-own-vinyl DJ decks in another, and a<br />

space devoted to film projections too. If you want a drink, head<br />

for the kitchen to see who’s in charge of the fridge. There’s<br />

usually some form of exotic daytime snack food on offer: recent<br />

choices have included houmous with pitta bread, and platters<br />

of sushi. Be sure to try the delicious homemade chocolate<br />

desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JGBW<br />

Barabar B-5, ul. Shipka 43A, tel. 0886 787 982. This small<br />

but perfectly formed café-bar may well be a 15-minute walk<br />

east of the centre, but its cosy-living-room atmosphere makes<br />

it well worth seeking out. The vintage <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n film posters<br />

on the walls make a great change from the beer adverts and<br />

commercial logos cluttering up other establishments of this<br />

ilk. The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-Scottish bar crew serve up excellent toasted<br />

sandwiches too. On Fridays there is live music. QOpen 09:30<br />

- 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PE<br />

Basic C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel. 986 36 72. The welcoming<br />

array of deep white sofas will lure you into this stylish<br />

little spot just off ul. Rakovski - just make sure you don’t end<br />

up squatting on one of the cube-sized pouffes otherwise you’ll<br />

have backache come the morning. There’s an appetizingly<br />

wide range of cocktails and spirit shots, and the designer<br />

toilet is cool enough for even the sassiest of supermodels<br />

to feel proud to drop their pants in. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. AP<br />

Baskerville B-2, ul. Denkoglu 16, tel. 986 60 62, anipink@mail.bg.<br />

Take it easy, there are no mysterious dogs<br />

in this friendly and tastefully furnished small bar. We can<br />

imagine, though, Holmes and Watson sitting here and having<br />

tea while looking at the retro pictures hanging on the walls.<br />

Not the best place for a raucous Friday night out, perhaps,<br />

but perfect for a cosy intimate drink. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />

PJGBW<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

nIGHtlIfe<br />

Bilkovata C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 986 49 05.<br />

Hardly anyone remembers the herbal pharmacy which once<br />

stood here (Bilkovata means “The Herbal”), but the basement<br />

bar on this spot is one of the most frequented places<br />

in Sofia. It’s sparsely furnished, smoky, and overcrowded at<br />

weekends, but a combination of off-the-wall background music<br />

and gregarious drinkers lurching around help make it one of<br />

those cult Sofia locations that you have to visit at least once.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJBW<br />

Blaze C-4, ul. Slavyanska 36, tel. 0888 354 004. This<br />

brash, tight squeeze of a DJ bar has been around for years<br />

and never seems to be in danger of going out of fashion. If you<br />

are dying to meet young trendy locals then you’re in the right<br />

place here. Getting a drink at weekends can require superhuman<br />

patience, and waiting for the toilets can take some times<br />

so long that you’re on first-name terms with everyone else<br />

in the queue by the time you finally penetrate the porcelain<br />

sanctuary. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PW<br />

By The Way C-3, ul. Rakovski 166, tel. 980 38 36,<br />

bytheway@faria.bg. If you really care about the quality of<br />

your cocktails then this split-level bar is the place to come.<br />

The setting is stylish and cosy, and the high proportion of<br />

beautiful young things among the clientele makes it the<br />

perfect place for people-watching. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAW<br />

Cappuccino bar & dinner B-2, ul. Pozitano 8, tel.<br />

0896 645 362, www.barcappuccino.net. Despite its<br />

short life, Cappuccino seems destined to become one of the<br />

most crowded new additions to Sofia. Preferred for business<br />

lunches, dinners, parties or just for a cup of coffee or excellent<br />

cappuccino, the interior is a mixture of expensive Italian<br />

furniture with a classical combination of midnight black and<br />

crisp white, delicate lighting and enviable sound system. The<br />

long menu specializes in Italian dishes, complemented by an<br />

excellent selection of wine from all over world and a variety<br />

of cocktails, among the well-founded reasons this place will<br />

be sure to please even the most capricious visitors. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. PAGW<br />

Cargo B-3, ul. Saborna 11, tel. 986 46 46. A relatively<br />

recent addition to the Sofia lounge-bar scene, offering pretty<br />

much what you would expect from the genre: moody lighting,<br />

furnishings straight out of a lifestyle magazine, and a pair of<br />

DJ decks standing proudly in the corner. The dark tones of the<br />

décor and impressive range of spirit bottles behind the bar<br />

make this an excellent place to sink into a sofa for a couple<br />

of hours. QOpen 08:30 - 05:00. PAW<br />

Casa de Cuba E-2, ul. Tsvetna gradina 1, tel. 963 22<br />

97/0885 455 633, casa.de.cuba@gmail.com, www.<br />

casadecuba.bg. Cuban and other Latino music bursts out of<br />

every single loudspeaker this bar invested in, making it practically<br />

impossible to have a four way conversation around a<br />

small round table. The interior aims to provide an atmosphere<br />

of pre-Cuban revolution with hundreds of miniature B&W<br />

January - March 2009<br />

35


36 nIGHtlIfe<br />

pictures showing the ‘hero’s’ of these days. Seats are from<br />

comfortable to the wake me up when the bar closes category.<br />

Cocktails like Mojito and Cuba Libre could be mixed to the<br />

more traditional recipes with a little more alcohol. The place<br />

is spiced up by the cigar smoke picked from the “pura menu”<br />

list. The waitresses serve at pace the 60 in- and 20 outside<br />

places. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. PJABW<br />

Club 703 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 23, tel. 981 97 75. With<br />

its dim lighting, wine-red walls and hypnotically revolving ceiling<br />

fans, 703 has long been one of the best spots in the centre<br />

for a relaxed, leisurely drink. Black-and-white photographs of<br />

mid-twentieth-century events and personalities add an air of<br />

class to the place, although the vintage Lucky Strike posters<br />

overlooking the non-smoking section seem to be a deliberate<br />

challenge to ex-addicts - who will probably be biting the<br />

furniture in frustration. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PJ<br />

Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02<br />

03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. A large<br />

lofty space with matt black walls, slender silver pillars and<br />

soft-cushion sofas, Chillout’s new city-centre venture looks<br />

like an inviting cross between medieval khan’s reception<br />

chamber and twenty-first century living room. With the same<br />

menu as its sister bar on ul. Baba Nedelya, Chillout is a good<br />

spot for downtown lunch, although it’s the prospect of evenings<br />

spent gurgling one’s way through the cocktail list that<br />

holds out most promise. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PAW<br />

Chillout Lounge D-6, ul. Baba Nedelya 6, tel. 953 35<br />

04, club@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. Drinking<br />

in Chillout’s black, red and blue interior is a bit like living<br />

inside an abstract painting. The place certainly lives up to its<br />

name, however, thanks to the moody sounds emanating from<br />

the CD player and the laid back, glamorous-without-puttingtoo-much-effort-into-it<br />

clientele. The drinks menu includes<br />

some potent and inexpensive cocktails, and food (including<br />

toasted sandwiches and savoury wraps) is served until about<br />

10pm - at which hour DJs turn up and start upping the tempo.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PJABW<br />

McCarthy’s B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 0878 666 130,<br />

info@mc-carthys.com, www.mc-carthys.com. Finally an<br />

Irish bar run by authentic Irish men. Just 10m from Mc’Donalds<br />

(on bul. Vitosha), turn right into the arcade, the first door to<br />

the left - you will see the sign. Climb the stairs and you will<br />

dive right into the clamour of the cheerful crowd. It seems<br />

that time has stopped here - laughter, dancing and singing<br />

replace the hectic life outside. The place is cosy, decorated,<br />

the owners claim, as an old style Irish pub from the 70’s,<br />

no annoying TV-sets to keep you from singing along. Large<br />

windows present you with a “spy” view to the Court House<br />

and the busy Alabin street. Pints of beer, great atmosphere,<br />

cool people, live music on Sundays. This place is simply a<br />

must experience. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.<br />

PJEW<br />

Mediterrani C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 37, tel. 0897 931<br />

291. We’re not sure what they have to do with the Mediterranean,<br />

but the combination of whitewashed walls, black<br />

couches and mellow music put us in the right mood to embark<br />

on a relaxing evening of alcohol-oiled conversation. <strong>In</strong>itially<br />

a bit difficult to find: head into the courtyard of the Mamma<br />

Mia pizzeria and dive down the stairs to your immediate left.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAGW<br />

Motto B-4, ul. Aksakov 18, tel. 987 27 23, motto_bg@<br />

hotmail.com, www.motto-bg.com. The red-brick walls,<br />

comfy sofas and designer lampshades of this roomy bar and<br />

diner attain just the right mixture of snazziness and comfort.<br />

There’s a huge menu of cocktails and spirits, and a selection<br />

of light dishes if you’re hungry. The service lags, especially<br />

when the place fills up with Sofia’s fashionable set, but then<br />

you’ll never be short of beautiful people to look at. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 02:00. PAW<br />

Nero E-1, bul. Vitosha 180, tel. 953 10 01, fax 952 04<br />

39, nero@nerosofia.com, www.nerosofia.com. The übercool<br />

black and white interior looks a bit cold and unwelcoming<br />

at first sight, but once you’ve settled into your designer chair<br />

you’ll find this place as comfy and relaxing as style bars<br />

come. It’s certainly the only place in Sofia that has a huge<br />

vinyl-upholstered foot inside the door. The food menu includes<br />

some excellent pastas and risottos, although portions are on<br />

the teeny side. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PALGBW<br />

Opera B-4, ul. Rakovski 113, tel. 988 21 41, opera@<br />

mail.bg, www.opera-bg.info. This classy designer bar in the<br />

basement of the National Opera is well worth looking in on at<br />

the weekends, when DJs spin plastic and revellers flock round<br />

the bar. At other times it looks like a furniture showroom, with<br />

rigid lines of fancy chairs and couches and not many people<br />

sitting in them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAW<br />

Orisha bar & dinner B-2, ul. Solunska 50, tel. 953 32<br />

94/0886 31 88 91. This is a warm and welcoming place<br />

situated in the city center, near bul. Hristo Botev. The menu<br />

offers a wide range of cocktails from all over the world with<br />

vodka, whisky, rum, gin, tequila and champagne. Most popular<br />

of them are Bronx Perfect, Alabama Slammer, Original Singapore<br />

Sling and a favourite of the American writer, Hemmingway<br />

Special. The names of the food from the menu are long and<br />

descriptive, with exotic sounding words. Seafood and chicken<br />

dishes are predominant. The bar’s name is interesting. An<br />

Orisha (orixa) is a spirit reflecting a particular aspect of God<br />

in the belief systems of Candomble in Brazil, and Santeria and<br />

Luccumi in Cuba and Puerto Rico among others. A friendly<br />

owner as well as house and chill out music add to the cozy<br />

atmosphere. An excellent place for business meetings and<br />

private parties. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PW<br />

Tea House (Chay vav fabrikata) B-4, ul. Georgi<br />

Benkovski 11, tel. 0887 051 080. Located behind an<br />

unlikely-looking metal door (look for the sign hanging above),<br />

this combined café and art gallery is the perfect place to wind<br />

down over a brew. Yogi tea, of which innumerable varieties<br />

are available, seems to be the house favourite, although<br />

there are several beverages of a more alcoholic nature to<br />

get acquainted with too, Antique furniture and oil paintings<br />

combine with post-industrial design touches to produce a<br />

slightly distressed, bohemian vibe. There’s usually some form<br />

of non-mainstream music on the CD system (world music, jazz<br />

or similar), and an irregular programme of off-beat musical<br />

events. <strong>In</strong>dian-influenced vegetarian food makes a welcome<br />

appearance on Thursday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PE<br />

Toba&Co B-3, ul. Moskovska 6A, tel. 989 46 96. Head<br />

round the back of the National Art Gallery and you’ll come<br />

across this curious little café-bar, occupying the cast-iron<br />

pavilion in which the mercurial Tsar Ferdinand once kept his<br />

butterflies. The cocktails aren’t that great but who cares; everything<br />

else on the menu is perfectly drinkable, the wooden<br />

chairs add a dash of Parisian-café charm, and when DJs turn<br />

up they usually spin something more interesting than Top-40<br />

teen fodder. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. PB<br />

Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red Line) B-1, ul.<br />

Vladayska 27. This bar named after the movie Thin Red<br />

Line used to be on ul. Graf Ignatiev close to bul. Vitosha.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


They moved to a bigger place on two floors. One floor is up<br />

the stairs and has a rectangular bar. The other floor is down<br />

the stairs where most of the action takes place. The place<br />

is murky and is decorated with movie posters from the Lord<br />

of the Rings, The Abyss, The Raven and others. This bustling<br />

bar offers all kinds of alcohol and entertainment. There is a<br />

pool table, table football and a flat-screen TV always tuned to<br />

a sports channel. The music is alternative and rock from the<br />

90ies, sometimes they play hip hop, but you will definitely not<br />

hear MTV hits. The service is good and the stuff is friendly.<br />

QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PG<br />

Upstairs C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 989 96 96, upstairs@<br />

uno-sofia.com, www.uno-sofia.com/upstairs. First-floor<br />

bar overlooking Sofia’s busiest downtown shopping street,<br />

with comfy lounge-bar furniture inside, and a line of stools<br />

along the verandah providing the perfect vantage point from<br />

which to observe the goings-on below. There’s a menu of<br />

fancy food, and a list of cocktails that runs to several pages.<br />

Glamorous without making too big a deal out of it, this is just<br />

what boulevard Vitosha needs. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 02:00. AW<br />

Pubs<br />

Amsterdam C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 38. A small metal<br />

club of 6 tables in a quiet street in the centre of the capital.<br />

<strong>In</strong> summer outdoor tables are also available. Varity of beers<br />

is offered at normal prices. However the menu is available<br />

only in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, but the owner of the place (usually residing<br />

there) speaks English and enjoys communicating with the<br />

clients. If clients are hungry, they can order grill dishes, or at<br />

lunch time they can try the lunch menu (soups and cooked<br />

meals). QOpen 10:00 - 22:30.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

nIGHtlIfe<br />

Bitburger C-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 20, tel. 981 96 65,<br />

fax 980 87 99, bitburger@einet.bg, www.bitburgerclub.<br />

com. German-designed beer-hall with German beers on tap<br />

and a loyal clientele of German-speaking expats. It’s also<br />

popular with the rest of Sofia’s international community,<br />

not least because it’s one of the best places in town for<br />

watching big-screen sporting events. There’s a good choice<br />

of international food on offer ranging from würst (German<br />

sausage) to big juicy steaks. Weekends are traditionally live<br />

music events. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00.<br />

PAEGW<br />

Flannagans B-4, Radisson SAS Hotel, pl. Narodno sabranie<br />

4, tel. 933 47 40, flannagans.sofia@radissonsas.<br />

com. Unusually for an establishment located on the ground<br />

floor of an international hotel, Flannagans succeeds in being<br />

a lively and welcoming venue, even if the prices are a touch<br />

more expensive than elsewhere in town. The draught Guinness<br />

and Kilkenny are well-kept enough to keep you coming<br />

back, and the menu of quality pub food is better than the<br />

fare offered by many of Sofia’s “international” restaurants.<br />

Major international sporting events are given the big-screen<br />

treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAW<br />

Irish Harp B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia 7, tel. 989 92 26, www.<br />

irish-harp.biz. Smart but slightly lived-in, and with friendly staff<br />

always ready to ask whether you need a refill, this is the kind of<br />

pub that you’ll find yourself drifting back to whether you’re eager<br />

for ex-pat chit-chat or simply in need of a relaxing drink. Murphys<br />

and Guinness on tap, and the fancy drinks and cocktails aren’t<br />

bad either. With several TV screens tuned to sports channels,<br />

this is an ideal place to catch live matches, or simply nervously<br />

await the incoming football results on Saturday afternoons.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJALEW<br />

January - March 2009<br />

37


38 nIGHtlIfe<br />

J. J. Murphy’s B-2, ul. Karnigradska 6, tel. 980 28<br />

70, fax 980 08 60. Restrained lighting, lots of dark-brown<br />

wooden furniture, and a variety of environments (you can<br />

either prop up the bar, watch football on the big screen, or<br />

sit in a quiet corner) all help make this place a comfortingly<br />

familiar home-from-home. They pull a mean pint of Murphy’s,<br />

and if <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine has left you pining for Sheperd’s<br />

Pie, this is the place to tuck in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

PEGBW<br />

Magelan B-4, ul. Parizh 10. A very small rock pub (about<br />

3-4 tables) hidden in a basement of a building, just opposite<br />

to a noisy former restaurant called Barbeque COOP (reminding<br />

to us for the communist times). Quite a rich menu in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

is available in the pub, with a surprising variety of skillfully prepared<br />

and tasty at quite low prices. Nevertheless the lack of<br />

ventilation, the atmosphere is cosy and friendly, maybe due to<br />

the guitar, narghile, extravagant interior and mainly the young<br />

English-speaking staff. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. IB<br />

Clubs<br />

4km Party Centre G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 111,<br />

tel. 870 07 75, office@jetcat.bg, www.4-km.com. Cavernous<br />

club in a renovated military installation on the way<br />

to Sofia airport, with a huge main dance-floor and a smaller<br />

lounge-like bar. Attracts international house and techno DJs<br />

at weekends when admission fees rise accordingly. However<br />

it’s miles away from anywhere and there are no other bars<br />

or clubs in the vicinity - so you’d better check what’s on here<br />

before forking out for a taxi and waving goodbye to the rest<br />

of your wallet at the entrance. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission:<br />

10-30Lv. PLB<br />

Alcohol B-4, ul. Rakovski 127, tel. 0888 655 500. An<br />

unmarked passageway on ul. Rakovski leads down to this<br />

vast barn of a place, regularly filled to bursting with adrenalinecharged,<br />

hedonistically-inclined Sofians. An anything-goes DJ<br />

policy keeps the dance floor constantly packed. If it gets too hot<br />

and crowded you can always head for the chill-out room (to the<br />

right of the coat-check), where you can sprawl on oriental divans<br />

and puff away on a hookah pipe. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00.<br />

Babbles C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 980 65 79, www.<br />

babblesclub.com. Ultra-fab designer bar which looks like a<br />

space-ship, a children’s cartoon or a kooky Sixties’ film set, depending<br />

on how many drinks you’ve had already. It’s the brainchild<br />

of owner Kremena Halvadzhian, who also happens to be one of<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s top stylists. The lively atmosphere is backed up with<br />

house music supplied by popular <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n DJs. If the cheerful<br />

colours aren’t enough to cheer you up, you can resort to a classical<br />

cocktail or straight drink. QOpen 17:00 - 00:00.<br />

Black Box B-2, ul. Pirotska 5. Boasting three dancefloors,<br />

chillout area and V.I.P. lounge, Black Box is something of a<br />

haven for hard-core techno and drum & bass freaks - so<br />

if an after-work dance around the handbag is what you’re<br />

after then you’d be better off heading elsewhere. Most of the<br />

clientele appear to be under 20, but then Black Box’s sanitychallenging<br />

sound system and light show are something that<br />

you have to be in the flush of youth to endure. The club is only<br />

open when a specific DJ event is scheduled, so you really need<br />

to interrogate your in-the-know Sofia friends before making<br />

tracks. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.<br />

Brilyantin B-3, ul. Moskovska 3, tel. 986 31 12, www.<br />

briliantin.com. The name of this club is a tribute to the<br />

dancing skills of Travolta and Newton-John, as Brilyantin<br />

(“Brilliantine”) is the name by which Seventies’ musical<br />

Grease is known in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. However you’re unlikely to<br />

see any latter-day hep-cats jiving away in their best rockand-roll<br />

frocks - Brilyantin is actually one of Sofia’s prime<br />

hang-outs for stylish young professionals, wannabe media<br />

types and expensive-cocktail conoisseurs. Matt black surfaces,<br />

the odd mirror-ball and a crowd-pleasing mixture of<br />

retro, house and dance-pop are the order of the day. Hard<br />

to get into at weekends - when you might have to reserve<br />

a table or arrive soon after opening time. QOpen 17:00 -<br />

04:00. PJA<br />

Casinos<br />

Casino Hawaii D-3, bul. Cherni Vrah 31 Hemus Hotel<br />

Sofia, tel. 963 37 63. Located in the Hemus Hotel, this<br />

casino offers table games - roulette, black jack, Caribbean<br />

poker, and slot machines. The staff speaks English and<br />

alcohol is free. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P<br />

Casino London B-4, Radisson SAS, pl. Narodno<br />

sabranie 4, tel. 980 70 75, fax 980 30 66. Roulette,<br />

black-jack, poker and more. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

A<br />

Casino Princess F-7, Sofia Princess Hotel, bul.<br />

Maria Luiza 131, tel. 933 87 00, fax 931 00 61.<br />

Southeast Europe’s answer to Las Vegas. Just don’t go<br />

crazy. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Casino Rila B-3, Rila Hotel, ul. Kaloyan 6, tel. 981<br />

80 67, fax 981 82 48. 10 total table games, restaurant.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AK<br />

Casino Viva B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya<br />

5, tel. 986 35 01. Good choice of slot machines and<br />

table games. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Palms Merkur Casino F-9, Botevgradsko shose,<br />

bl. 2, tel. 0884 684 830, botevgradsko@lip.bg. Good<br />

choice of slot machines and electronic roulette. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00. PO<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Buddha Bar B-3, ul. Lege 15A, tel. 989 50 06. There<br />

are so many Buddha bars around the world these days that<br />

the cross-legged sage is beginning to look more like the logo<br />

of a multinational leisure business than founder of one of the<br />

world’s great religions. The Sofia version offers just as much<br />

oriental kitsch as its namesakes but still succeeds in being<br />

a relaxing drinking spot - especially if you choose the chillout<br />

room with the hookahs. The DJ parties held here feature<br />

ethno, house and dance music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

PJALGB<br />

Cabaret C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60 88. The<br />

club is snugly sheltered in the basement of an old Art-Nouveau<br />

building which lends a particular old-time atmosphere reinforced<br />

by the stylish furniture and lighting. Musical styles<br />

include latino and retro-pop, drawing in a slightly older crowd<br />

than some of the techno-temples elsewhere. QOpen 19:00<br />

- 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAGW<br />

Club Liqueur B-3, ul. Pirotska 5 (corner with George<br />

Washington), tel. 0888 888 358, www.clubliqueur.<br />

com. The place plays retro, rock, evergreen, R&B and dance<br />

music. The decoration is modernistic with columns wrapped<br />

in silver, the bar and bar plots are illuminated, the high chairs<br />

are with leather seating. The overall luminous effects are<br />

state of the art in red, green and yellow. Occasionally there<br />

is live music. There are also special alcohol promotions for<br />

each day of the week. Just ask. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.<br />

Admission: 3-5Lv. The club offers:on Monday Students’<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

nIGHtlIfe<br />

party, on Tuesday - Black party and on Wednesday - BG<br />

music party. Sunday no admission fee, Thursday ladies go<br />

in for free. PJEW<br />

Club Sugar C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 1, tel. 0899 103 617,<br />

www.sugarclub.eu. Sugar is maybe the only “exclusive” Fri<br />

& Sat R&B and hip hop club in town. It has two rooms, with<br />

different DJ playing but sometimes, you never know when, there<br />

will be only the main room open. The crowd is quite young, so<br />

you might feel either in kindergarten or in heaven. There are 3<br />

video walls projecting all night movies or documentaries about<br />

R&B stars. The 2 bars are aways full and hard to get to, since<br />

the drinks are quite cheap and this certainly inspires drinking.<br />

People are definitely there to dance and show off their new MTV<br />

moves or if you are lucky electric and break dance style. Wear<br />

your party or “gangsta” style clothes to make sure you catch<br />

the eye. Excellent and welcoming surrounding for people of all<br />

races, fun is guaranteed. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. PJA<br />

Escape B-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 1, tel. 0889 990 000,<br />

www.clubescapebg.com. Escape boasts a huge dancefloor,<br />

four bars on two levels, a bone-grinding sound system<br />

and an energized, foxy clientele. Thursday is retro-disco night,<br />

while top-ranking house and techno DJs twiddle the knobs at<br />

weekends. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,<br />

Sun. Admission: 10Lv. PJAL<br />

Chervilo B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 9, tel. 981 66 33,<br />

maria@chervilo.com, www.chervilo.com. Ten-year-old<br />

Guidelines to <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n lifestyle, bars, clubs and discos<br />

1. Try not to stare at women that are accompanied by their<br />

boyfriends, no matter how beautiful they are, it might be<br />

taken as an insult.<br />

2. Try to avoid conflict if you notice <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n people stare<br />

at your wife/girlfriend, or at yourself, usually they will be<br />

just curious. Don’t forget some 19 years ago the majority<br />

of people didn’t even meet foreigners from beyond the iron<br />

curtain, so you are still new and exciting. Bravo!<br />

3. Don’t try to act overly macho, particularly in more provincial<br />

towns or cities. Unless of course you are Mike Tyson.<br />

4. When in a bar do not shout or insult the waiters or other<br />

staff members, it may be taken very deeply.<br />

5. If you feel that someone is in some way being threatening<br />

or intimidating to you, it is often best to befriend<br />

them. <strong>In</strong> many cases locals feel threatened by foreigners<br />

and try to show themselves as tough but when you act<br />

as equals and friends they will often almost immediately<br />

drop this façade.<br />

6. If however a conflict situation rises, leave immediately.<br />

Do not stay around and add on to the fire. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are<br />

very social and family driven and under a common goal a<br />

big group of people is summoned very fast.<br />

7. Good icebreakers are compliments on the country: The<br />

food, the football, the women, the inventions created by<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns such as the Cyrillic alphabet and so on. As additional<br />

benefit you might get an interesting story or two.<br />

Make them talk, they love it.<br />

8. Strong drinks (vodka, whisky etc.) come in quantities<br />

of 50ml for a small and 100ml for a large. <strong>In</strong> some places,<br />

unless you specifically ask for small you will be handed a<br />

large by default.<br />

9. Rakia must only be drunk with shopska salad. Don’t ask<br />

us why, it just should. If you order one without salad you<br />

may well be looked at as if you are from Mars.<br />

10. The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n for “cheers” is nazdrave, which literally<br />

means “to your health”. If someone proposes a toast (and<br />

this could happen innumerable times during the course of<br />

the evening) you have to clink your glass with absolutely<br />

everyone, no matter how many are sitting round the table,<br />

making sure to look in the eye at the point of clinking. If you<br />

fail to make eye contact, they will think you are disrespectful<br />

(or just an uninformed foreigner). The custom comes<br />

from ancient times. <strong>In</strong> days gone by kings, khans and<br />

other important figures would look deep into the eyes of<br />

the person they cheer to guess his intentions. Then they<br />

would bang their glasses so hard, so that a drop of each<br />

drink gets into the other (mixing the drinks would guarantee<br />

they are not poisoned).<br />

11. Be prepared to mix your own drinks. Whilst in England<br />

a “vodka and coke” means a nice mixed drink from the bar,<br />

in BG it means 1 vodka (most likely large) and 1 coke. Mix it<br />

yourself to your own perfect proportions. Cheers.<br />

12. Bring a gas mask. Many <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are heavy smokers<br />

although this becomes less with new generations.<br />

Some bars can be closed in and stuffy places. Combine<br />

this with a crowd of 40 a day hardcore smokers and you<br />

get quite a fog.<br />

13. Take advantage of the hospitality of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n soul.<br />

You might be invited to dinners, parties, cocktail parties,<br />

promotions, etc. Generally <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns love foreigners.<br />

14. <strong>In</strong> bars you can not bring drugs, guns or other forbidden<br />

substances. Pretty much like most places you have<br />

been in your life.<br />

15. Big fat silver chains that you could anchor a boat with<br />

are an absolute must. That is if you want to appear young,<br />

cool, like a gangster or simply need to anchor a boat.<br />

16. If you are going out on a Friday night to a bar and<br />

want to blend in like a local, it is essential that you<br />

haven’t shaved for at least 3 days. Dressing entirely in<br />

black is a bonus.<br />

17. Girls, for you to catch the attention of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n men,<br />

just act natural and dress sexy.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

39


40 nIGHtlIfe<br />

Gay and lesbian Sofia<br />

There are now several centrally-located gay venues in<br />

Sofia. Most are friendly places catering for a wide clientele<br />

rather than special interests. Up-to-date listing of parties<br />

in bars and clubs can be found at www.gay.bg.<br />

One characteristic of Sofia’s gays and lesbian community<br />

is that many prefer to visit mixed clubs which are known<br />

for attracting a tolerant, open-minded crowd: Chervilo,<br />

Escape and Yalta (see our main “Nightlife” listings for<br />

details) are good examples of these.<br />

Adonis B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris 122, tel. 0898 305<br />

932. Cute little place specializing in Balkan folk-pop,<br />

popular with transvestites and a younger crowd. QOpen<br />

22:00 - 06:00.<br />

Club 18+ C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 846 82 54. Newish<br />

club on central Sofia’s main street with different DJ<br />

styles on different nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.<br />

Essence B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 29, tel.<br />

0899 998 666. Lesbian club with a wide spectrum of<br />

music. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.<br />

PGX<br />

Exit Club B-6, ul. Lavele 16, tel. 0888 140 133,<br />

www.exit-club.com. Bar & Diner. Cosy place with a<br />

variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails and a<br />

DJ-party every evening. Not to be confused with the Exit<br />

Club on ul. Suborna, which is completely straight. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 02:00. J<br />

Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980<br />

02 03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com.<br />

One of those mainstream but gay-friendly places that<br />

attracts a mixed tolerant crowd throughout the week.<br />

Dedicated gay DJ party every 2nd Saturday. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 04:00. PABW<br />

<strong>In</strong> Da Club C-2, ul. Samuil 33. Dedicated gay club with<br />

3 floors of music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Vital B-2, ul. Alabin 5, tel. 987 19 67. A key meeting<br />

point of long standing, functioning as a cool café in the<br />

daytime and transforming itself into a DJ bar from about<br />

8pm onwards. Club nights on Fridays and Saturdays<br />

frequently involve strip shows, cabaret and DJ-driven fun.<br />

Nice garden courtyard. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />

veteran of the Sofia clubbing scene that shows no sign of<br />

going out of fashion. Alongside leading <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n techno DJs,<br />

the club frequently hosts star guests from abroad, and attracts<br />

a correspondingly hip crowd. It is divided into three halls<br />

and though the major club nights are held in the Main Room,<br />

some infectiously off-beat DJ events take place in a smaller<br />

space, the cute Baby Box. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed<br />

Mon, Sun. Admission: 5-20Lv. PJAEBW<br />

Life House B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 0888 241 016,<br />

www.clublifehouse.com. The name says it all - this is one<br />

of the top venues for house music in Sofia, with top local<br />

and international DJs doling out the beats. Design is postindustrial<br />

and service is of the kind usually experienced in<br />

Sofia clubs - slow but genial. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed<br />

Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: 2-15Lv. PA<br />

PR G-8, ul. Cherkovna 87, tel. 0895 500 500, www.<br />

prclub-bg.com. Only a few months old and already seen<br />

as something of a jewel in Sofia’s night-life crown, PR offers<br />

stylish interior, six bars and an amazing lighting rig. Enjoyable,<br />

all-inclusive mix of house and retro-disco rhythms, enhanced<br />

by the presence of some of Sofia’s most cheerful and friendly<br />

staff. QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Pulse Club A-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 089 852 01 50.<br />

This small and cozy night club offers a nice environment in<br />

which to escape from the outside world. Designed to keep<br />

you on the dance floor, the club consists of one bar and tables<br />

facing the dance floor. At the entrance of the club there are<br />

three bed - like sofas, where you can chill out on soft cushions.<br />

Make sure you don`t leave your drink unattended ( even on the<br />

bar ), as your half full beer bottle will be gone in no time and<br />

of course the bartenders will know nothing of its mysterious<br />

disappearance. The cloakroom is tiny, so don`t rely on having<br />

your coat hanging nicely. There are theme parties every<br />

Friday and they not only fill the place with a pleasant crowd,<br />

but they are also an atmosphere and experience you should<br />

not miss. For more information check our culture section.<br />

QOpen 22:00 - 08:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Retro club Gramophone B-3, ul. Budapeshta 6, tel.<br />

981 14 10/0878 146 353, retroclubgramophone@<br />

gmail.com, www.retroclubgramophone.com. One of the<br />

most popular Sofia’s downtown clubs, opened again with a<br />

new interior and a new program. The long bar is loaded with<br />

different brands of imported alcohol, including Johnnie Walker<br />

blue label. Lighting is with grade colours, fires burn down at<br />

the level of your legs and large white wings are spread high on<br />

the walls. From the DJ desk, already located next to the front<br />

door, you can hear different genres of music, depending on<br />

what day of the week you have chosen, for visiting the club.<br />

Overall, things look like this: hypnotized Monday, evergreen<br />

Tuesday, retro Wednesday & Thursday, light house Friday<br />

& Saturday, retro Sunday. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PJB<br />

Salsa plus B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 980 40 80/0888 50<br />

80 80, salsaplus@abv.bg. Somewhat appropriately hidden in<br />

an alley and down in a basement, this alternative dance club<br />

is a must for anyone who likes something different. Boasting<br />

a simple and bright decor, a small bar area, a clientele that<br />

varies in age and ethnicity and an open space for them to strut<br />

their stuff, at times you will actually feel like you are in South or<br />

Central America. There is a joyous spirt here that is infectious,<br />

thanks to the welcoming customers, many of whom sport traditional<br />

dress, who are here to express themselves to the sexy<br />

latino rhythm. You’ll possibly find someone to teach you a few<br />

steps or you can just sit back and enjoy what often turns into a<br />

real show. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P<br />

The Black Lodge B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 34,<br />

tel. 0887 425 400. Named after the famous fictional place<br />

of the cult TV serial Twin Peaks, the club is brand new and the<br />

only heavy metal club in Sofia. <strong>In</strong> front of the club there’s a big<br />

red sign which you can’t miss. Downstairs you will find a rather<br />

crowded, smoky place, divided into four parts. The rooms are<br />

in dark grey and black, with tattoo designs painted on the walls,<br />

all in the spirit of the classic heavy metal atmosphere, done<br />

professionally and with style. Prices are not the lowest, but you<br />

can be sure, that there will be no degenerates, who come here<br />

just to get drunk, but real fans of heavy metal music. If that’s<br />

you - this is your lodge. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. P<br />

The Blue Box F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 106. Blue Box -- Once a<br />

cinema, this hall can become a sweaty nightmare, when a show<br />

is attended by more than 50 people. If you are used to sauna<br />

temperatures and headbanging drunks, you will probably survive<br />

it…and become much stronger. QOpen 20:00 - 04.00. E<br />

Yalta B-4, bul.Tsar Osvoboditel 20, tel. 980 12 97/0897<br />

870 230, office@yaltaclub.com, www.yaltaclub.com.<br />

Sofia’s longest-running dance venue is still the best place to<br />

catch international DJs - there’s usually at least one big name<br />

jetting in every weekend. The recently revamped main chamber<br />

is closed on quiet weeknights, although the ground-floor bar<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


(open daily) is always worth a visit: anyone who remembers<br />

the space-station cafe scene from 2001: a Space Odyssey will<br />

find it curiously familiar. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.<br />

Folk clubs<br />

Folk in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> means chalga – the semi-oriental, shakeyour-booty-and-waggle-your-hands-in-the-air<br />

ethno-pop<br />

which is indigenous to the Balkan peninsula.<br />

Help B-2, ul. Hristo Botev 61, tel. 810 88 88, bgcinematrade@abv.bg.<br />

Housed in the Sin City entertainment<br />

complex, an expensively renovated former theatre, Help is<br />

the biggest and flashiest of the folk venues. There’s a lobby<br />

bar playing western dance-pop and an enormous main hall<br />

crammed with tables (reserve in advance if you want to be<br />

sure of one), with a mix of DJs and live musicians laying down<br />

chalga beats. Attracts dressed-up ladies and mean-looking<br />

macho types, so attire yourself accordingly. QOpen 22:30<br />

- 07:00. Admission: 5-30Lv. PALGBW<br />

NAI-klub B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 10, tel. 981 27 47,<br />

dani_nai@abv.bg. Prepare for visual and aural overload in his<br />

cavernous subterranean space, with cave paintings on the<br />

walls, leopard-print tablecloths, and four giant feet holding up<br />

the ceiling. A foundation-shaking selection of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and<br />

Serbian chart hits will have your hips swaying convulsively<br />

after a few drinks. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Admission: 3Lv.<br />

Ladies go in for free.<br />

Planeta B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 987 94 94, planetaclub@abv.bg,<br />

www.planeta-club.com. Not much in the way<br />

of fancy decor but hugely enjoyable nevertheless, with a house<br />

band moving room table to table, and belly-dancers shaking<br />

their assets in the direction of anyone who looks like a generous<br />

tipper. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 3-10Lv.<br />

Karaoke<br />

Backstage Karaoke Bar C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 100. A<br />

spacious club with wide variety of songs. Live concerts are<br />

also organized there. The style is predominantly rock. Prices<br />

are not very low but the entrance fee is modest. The club<br />

is divided into 2 halls, one of them with a pool table. Food is<br />

not available, except for nuts.<br />

Yesterday Karaoke Bar B-3, ul. Rakovski 82, tel. 981<br />

23 46, pianobar@mail.bg, www.pianobar-vchera.com. A<br />

nice small place underground in a noisy central street. The<br />

list of songs is quite rich and various: people can choose<br />

from MTV hits to French chansons, Russian chastushki,<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n pop music etc. However drinks are not very cheep<br />

and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n alcohol is not available. Sometimes it is far too<br />

overcrowded. An entrance fee of 2 lv is included in the bill at<br />

the end. You can sing karaoke there all nights except for Friday<br />

and Saturday. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. PW<br />

Live music clubs<br />

8th Ball A-4, Sv. sv. Kiril i Metodiy 27, tel. 0876 107<br />

722. This underground basement cavern is a place for hardcore<br />

punks, hooligans and all types of tattooed weirdos. It is<br />

the place where fast, noisy, unknown and mostly young bands<br />

play with fierce passion. Don’t mess with the bartenders,<br />

they are as local and as tough as you will never be. QOpen<br />

20:00 - 04.00. Admission: 4-5 BGN.<br />

B29 Piano Bar B-1, ul. Vladayska 29, tel. 952 06 65,<br />

b29@abv.bg, www.b29pianobar.com. A piano bar which<br />

really is a bar with a piano in it, featuring regular live perfor-<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

nIGHtlIfe<br />

mances by distinguished <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n ivory tinklers. Music ranges<br />

from relaxing cocktail-bar jazz to stomping R’n’B covers, when<br />

it’s time to cast your inhibitions aside and hit the dance-floor.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Admission: 7Lv. PAEG<br />

Back Stage B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 100. Sizeable club with<br />

a huge oblong bar, pool tables in the adjoining room, and a big<br />

stage at one end that hosts the big names of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n rock<br />

and pop. Wednesday night is blues night. QOpen 20:00 -<br />

04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 3-10Lv. EG<br />

Biblioteka Cool House - Piano Bar B-5, bul. Vasil<br />

Levski 88. This is a luxurious karaoke bar in the basement<br />

of the National library building. The list of songs offers mainly<br />

pop, rock, chill out and retro. Beverages are quite expensive.<br />

QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. PAE<br />

Fans B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 114, tel. 0896 061 315, rockbarfans@abv.bg.<br />

Getting to Fans is an adventure in itself: go<br />

through the yard of the Chinese restaurant at bul. Vasil Levski<br />

114, down the spiral stairs, through the heavy curtain used<br />

instead of a door, and pay a man dressed as a cowboy to gain<br />

admittance. Once inside the semi-darkened interior you’ll find<br />

an enthusiastic beer-swilling crowd, and nightly performances<br />

by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n rockers, bluesmen and pop-rock cover bands.<br />

QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. PALE<br />

Social Jazz Club C-3, pl. Slaveykov 4, tel. 0884 622<br />

220. Buried beneath Sofia City Library is one of Sofia’s<br />

coolest music venues, offering a regular menu of live jazz<br />

including some top names from <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and the Balkans.<br />

Although there is standing space in front of the stage, it’s<br />

best to reserve a table if you want to watch the gig in comfort.<br />

The bar serves imported drinks only and prices are on the<br />

high side, so do remember to visit the cash point before you<br />

arrive. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. 5-15Lv.<br />

Swingin’ Hall D-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 8, tel. 963 06<br />

96, galswing@abv.bg. Currently the best place in town to<br />

catch local rock, blues, jazz and world-music acts, with a sixday-a-week<br />

programme of live music. With three bars, two<br />

stages, and a brick-lined, cellar-like interior, it’s a great place<br />

for a night out whoever is on the bill. Friendly party-inclined<br />

atmosphere draws musically-inclined Sofians of all ages, and<br />

a generous sprinkling of ex-pats. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.<br />

Closed Mon. Admission: 5Lv.<br />

The Club G-8, Nicolaus Copernicus 2, tel. 872 09 46,<br />

http://theclub-bg.com/. Once a cult rock club, this cozy<br />

2-store hut is where all good and professional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n musicians<br />

play. Close to the audience and with booze flowing from<br />

the bar. The owner is a respected <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n alternative rock<br />

musician and producer, so sound quality is indisputable. Q<br />

Admission: 10 BGN.<br />

Adult entertainment<br />

Angels Club B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5,<br />

tel. 987 15 30. Lots of nice dancing girls. QOpen 22:00 -<br />

05:00. Admission: 7Lv. PJAL<br />

Dolls G-7, bul. Dzheyms Bauchar 100, tel. 963 39 64,<br />

www.sofianights.com. Classy club with a long tradition, with<br />

a sizeable cast of dancing girls and a programme of erotic<br />

shows. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 7Lv. PA<br />

Taboo Club B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 12, tel. 987 08 70,<br />

www.sofianights.com. Plush environment in which to enjoy an<br />

array of lovely dancers. Fruit salad - served on a woman’s body -<br />

is the speciality of the house. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. A<br />

January - March 2009<br />

41


42 nIGHtlIfe<br />

Studentski grad<br />

Over 10,000 of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s brightest young things live in the<br />

grey and windswept blocks of Studentski grad (“Studentville”),<br />

a purpose-built suburb located some 7km southeast<br />

of the centre. Despite its housing-estate-at-the-end-of-theworld<br />

appearance, Studentski grad is one of the fastest<br />

changing places in the whole country, with flashy new bars,<br />

clubs and fast-food joints springing up almost daily to satisfy<br />

the voracious leisure-time appetites of Sofia’s hormonefuelled<br />

student community. If you feel like partying 24 hours<br />

a day, seven days a week, then this is the place to do it.<br />

If your mind is more focused on passing your exams and<br />

becoming a responsible member of society, however, you’re<br />

best advised to steer clear of the place altogether.<br />

To get to Studentski grad, take bus No. 280 from ul. Shipka<br />

(B-4) to the end of the line. A taxi back to town won’t break<br />

the bank.<br />

Avenue H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1A, tel. 0898 553<br />

086, complexavenue@abv.bg, www.complexavenue.<br />

com. Minimal decor, throbbing music and a wide selection<br />

of cheap alcohol help make this place something of a<br />

laboratory of scholarly self-destruction. One floor is devoted<br />

to western dance music, while the other concentrates on<br />

Balkan chalga-pop, so at least you get to sample both sides<br />

of the Studentski grad experience in one place. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00. Admission: 3Lv. PLNW<br />

Bacardi Box H-8, ul. 8-mi dekemvri, tel. 968 19 11,<br />

i_sergeeva@abv.bg, http://bacardibox.com. Despite a<br />

sparse interior whose huge rectangular bar and numerous<br />

compartments leave little room for a dancefloor, Bacardi<br />

box has no problem packing in the booty-shaking, boogiehappy<br />

drinkers. With a winning formula that ranges from<br />

top-forty sounds to retro disco and chalga in the early hours,<br />

semi-naked dancers on the bar and really affordable prices,<br />

it’s no wonder this place is currently one of Studentski<br />

grad’s liveliest corners. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PLN<br />

Bar na kraya na vselenata H-8, Studentski grad,<br />

bl. 34B, tel. 962 55 41, office@vselenata.com, www.<br />

vselenata.com. The aptly-named “Bar at the End of the<br />

Universe” is on the northern fringes of Studentski grad<br />

and as such makes the perfect place to start or finish<br />

your intrepid crawl through Sofia’s outer reaches. Centred<br />

on a big circular bar surrounded by yellowy-orange walls<br />

perforated with holes, it looks a bit like a spaceship built<br />

out of Swiss cheese. Relaxed, friendly, and with a long<br />

list of cocktails and light meals. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />

PLNGXW<br />

Jim Beam Club H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 3, tel. 0895<br />

433 708, www.minimaxcomplex.com. Ultra modern interior,<br />

all red and black design, even down to the waitresses<br />

tight costumes, the spacious dance floor, state of the sound<br />

system and two enclosed bar areas all combine to make this<br />

a hopping nightclub. By 00:30 the place is packed. QOpen<br />

22:30 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. PA<br />

Marseille H-8, ul. Prof. Dr. Ivan Stranski 5, tel. 968 19<br />

79, fax 968 19 78, marsilia@sakar-marsilia.com, www.<br />

sakar-marsilia.com. This spacious, glass-fronted cafe-bar<br />

is guaranteed to fill up with slinky young creatures whatever<br />

the time of day or night. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />

Maskata H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 19, tel. 868 80<br />

79. This candle-lit post-industrial cattle shed of a place<br />

exudes a relaxing unpretentious vibe, although the disco<br />

hits emanating from the muddy sound system sometimes<br />

leave a lot to be desired. Maskata’s main selling point is the<br />

regular diet of live pop-rock. The size of the party depends<br />

on who is playing and how many fans they’ve managed<br />

to drag along. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. Admission: 3-5Lv.<br />

PALEGX<br />

Orient 33 H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1, tel. 0895 433<br />

702. Despite non-descript decor and unfriendly staff, the<br />

ear-splitting selection of Balkan folk-pop ditties at this<br />

popular chalga club keeps the public coming in droves.<br />

QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv.<br />

Stroezha H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 23B, tel. 962 59<br />

77, stroeja@abv.bg, www.stroeja.com. A warren of<br />

nooks and crannies and plenty of lived-in furniture make<br />

this one of Studentski grad’s more laid-back drinking holes.<br />

If you like alternative rock, punk, ska and Britpop you’ll feel<br />

so at home here that you’ll probably never leave. Closed<br />

in August. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.<br />

The Net H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 38. With its brownbeige<br />

colour scheme and comfy geometrical furnishings the<br />

Net is one of those places that draw you in and keep you<br />

contentedly sipping away whether a quiet afternoon coffee<br />

or a raucous odyssey of nocturnal entertainment is on your<br />

mind. Good list of cocktails, and the shot menu comes<br />

highly recommended. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Toucan Bluzz & Rock H-8, ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov<br />

4, tel. 0887 098 164. Can white men sing the bluzz?<br />

If you like the idea of a subterranean beer hall combining<br />

live music with pool tables, a huge bar and a wide range of<br />

beers, then it’s well worth heading to Studentski grad to<br />

find out. Regular programme of rock and blues, and maybe<br />

the best karaoke in Sofia every Thursday night. QOpen<br />

21:00 - 04:00. Admission:3-10Lv. PNW<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Sofia may not have the grandeur of a great world city, but<br />

its tree-lined, frequently cobbled streets are chock full of<br />

absorbing oddities. As you’d expect for a town that’s over<br />

2,000 years old, the centre of Sofia is like a walk-through<br />

history lesson, with Romans, Byzantines, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, Ottoman<br />

Turks and Soviet-inspired communists all having left<br />

their architectural imprint.<br />

Essential Sofia<br />

Alexander Nevski Memorial Church (Hram-pametnik<br />

Aleksandar Nevski) B-4, pl. Aleksandar Nevski,<br />

tel. 988 17 04. Built by Russian architects, inspired by the<br />

glories of ancient Byzantium, this multi-domed ecclesiastical<br />

monster has been Sofia’s visual trademark ever since its<br />

completion in 1924. It was built in memory of the Russia’s<br />

nineteenth-century contribution to <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s liberation,<br />

although the Aleksander referred to in the title,s is actually a<br />

medieval prince of Novgorod, who battled Teutonic Knights.<br />

Decorated from floor to ceiling with frescoes and illuminated<br />

by flickering candles, the vast interior is as atmospheric as<br />

they come. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily Liturgy - 08:00 and<br />

17:00; Vigil - Sat 18:30; Mass - Sun 09:30<br />

Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski muzey)<br />

B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 988 24 06, fax 988 24 05, aim.<br />

sofianet.net. Housed in a beautifully restored fifteenthcentury<br />

mosque, this attractive display of Thracian, Greek,<br />

Roman and medieval <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n artefacts is by far the most<br />

eye-pleasing museum that Sofia has to offer. Imposing chunks<br />

of Greek and Roman masonry are strewn around the main<br />

hall, while upstairs lie many of the headline-grabbing Thracian<br />

treasures, unearthed by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n archaeologists in recent<br />

years. Most mesmerizing of all is the solid gold burial mask of<br />

a fourth-century-BC Thracian ruler, excavated near the central<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n town of Shipka in summer 2004. A series of Orthodox<br />

church paintings depicting the life and martyrdom of St George<br />

run around the first-floor gallery, while a room full of exquisite<br />

medieval <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n jewelry looks contemporary enough to<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHat to see<br />

provide today’s designers with a rich seam of inspiration. The<br />

bilingual <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-English labeling is unusually thorough, and<br />

the collection is just the right size to be easily digestible in one<br />

trip. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv.<br />

Boyana Church (Boyanskata tsurkva) H-6, ul. Boyansko<br />

ezero 1-3, tel. 959 09 39, fax 959 29 66, nmbc@<br />

nmbc.orbitel.bg, www.boyanachurch.org. If medieval<br />

church art turns you on then the UNESCO-listed Boyana<br />

church will have you foaming at the mouth with excitement.<br />

Just about every square inch of the interior is covered with<br />

bible scenes and saintly portraits, rendered by thirteenthcentury<br />

artists. Nobody knows the identity of the painters,<br />

but their mastery of realistic depiction and sophisticated use<br />

of colour puts them on a par with Italian artists of the early<br />

Renaissance. It is a tiny church consisting of two parts: the<br />

oldest dates from the 10th century, when it served as the<br />

January - March 2009<br />

43


44 WHat to see<br />

chapel of Boyana fortress. A second floor was added in 1259<br />

by the Sevastokrator (or local governor) Kaloyan, who used<br />

the church as his family chapel. It was Kaloyan, who commissioned<br />

the frescoes for which Boyana church is famous.<br />

Restored in various stages over the past forty years, the<br />

main body of the church was never open to the public in its<br />

entirety until December 2006. Highlights include portraits of<br />

Kaloyan and wife Desislava dressed in sumptuous robes, and<br />

the earliest known portrait of the white-bearded St John of<br />

Rila, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s national patron saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />

Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including National History<br />

Museum: 12Lv. Visitors are admitted to the church six at a<br />

time, at ten-minute intervals, so be prepared to wait.<br />

National Museum of History (Natsionalen istoricheski<br />

muzey) G-6, ul. Vitoshko Lale 16, Boyana,<br />

tel. 955 76 04, fax 955 76 02, nim.pr@abv.bg., www.<br />

historymuseum.org. Located in a park-shrouded former<br />

government palace on the northern side of the Okolovrusten<br />

put (Sofia’s main ring road), <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s National History Museum<br />

offers a highly enjoyable chronological journey through<br />

at least eight millennia of human civilization on the Balkan<br />

peninsula. The building itself is a fascinating oddity, having<br />

served <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communist leaders as an official residence<br />

until 1989. If anybody ever launched a lifestyle magazine for<br />

would-be dictators, the marble halls and ornate ceilings in evidence<br />

here would make ideal front-page material.A sweeping<br />

staircase leads to the display areas, where the circular-shaped<br />

Neolithic Hall harbours vividly-decorated jugs and clay figures.<br />

Representations of the Earth Mother Goddess, dating from the<br />

sixth millennium BC include a fabulous pair of buttocks from<br />

the Sofia region. Next up is the Thracian room: unfortunately,<br />

many of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s most famous Thracian treasures are touring<br />

western museums at present, and it is not known quite when<br />

they will come home. However there is still plenty of Thracian<br />

gold- and silverware, fantastically decorated with mythical<br />

animals, to make a visit here worthwhile. Biggest disappointment<br />

is the medieval section, which is largely based on replicas<br />

of items kept elsewhere, or on photographs of ruined castles<br />

and churches throughout <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. It’s more of an educational<br />

theme-park than a serious museum display, but it certainly<br />

whets the appetite for further travel within the country. Upstairs<br />

on the second floor lies a knock-out display of brightly-coloured<br />

folk costumes and kilims, and a fascinating collection of posters,<br />

photographs and domestic nick-nacks documenting the<br />

social history of twentieth-century <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including Boyana<br />

Church: 12Lv. English-language tours cost 20Lv and can be<br />

booked in advance on tel. 955 42 80.<br />

Rotunda of St George (Rotonda Sveti Georgi) B-3,<br />

pl. Sveta Nedelya 2. Hidden away in a courtyard behind the<br />

Sheraton Hotel, this dainty red-brick doughnut of a building<br />

is the oldest surviving structure in the city, which still serves<br />

its original purpose. Built by the Romans in the fourth century,<br />

but much changed since, it’s justly famous for the twelfth- to<br />

fourteenth-century frescoes inside the central dome. It’s a<br />

powerful ensemble, with an all-powerful Christ looking down<br />

on successive circles of white-bearded disciples and holy<br />

men. Painted over during the Ottoman period (when the<br />

building was used as a mosque), these frescoes were only<br />

unearthed in the twentieth century. Admission: free, but<br />

donations appreciated. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />

Russian Church of St Nicholas (Ruska tsurkva)<br />

B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 3, tel. 986 27 15. Of all the<br />

places of worship in Sofia, this is the most vivacious, its<br />

green steeple and five golden domes outshining pretty much<br />

everything else on this central boulevard. Built just before<br />

World War I to serve Sofia’s Russian community and modeled<br />

on Muscovite churches of the sixteenth century, it looks as if<br />

a small piece of the Kremlin has been plonked in the middle<br />

of the Balkans. A path to the left of the main entrance leads<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


to the crypt, last resting place of Archbishop Serafim, who<br />

served as head of the Russian church in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in the early<br />

twentieth century. An enormously popular and pious man<br />

during his lifetime, Serafim is nowadays accorded almost<br />

saintly status by the Sofians, who come here to write prayers<br />

on scraps of paper which are then posted into a box next to<br />

his sarcophagus. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.<br />

Zhenski pazar A-2, A-3, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Zhenski<br />

pazar literally means ‘women’s market’, although people<br />

of all possible sexes, ages and pockets throng daily to this<br />

half-a-kilometre-long strip of street stalls lined on either<br />

side by poky shops. Fresh foodstuffs are the mainstay of<br />

the market, but you can also buy flowers, cheap clothes,<br />

household goods, ironmongery and more. There’s not much in<br />

the way of fancy goods or souvenirs, but the raw street-level<br />

vigour of the place makes it well worth a visit. It’s a location<br />

popular with pickpockets too, however, so take good care<br />

of your belongings.<br />

Museums<br />

Earth and Man National Museum (Natsionalen<br />

Muzey “Zemyata i horata”) D-2, bul. Cherni vrah 4,<br />

tel. 865 66 39, fax 866 14 57, earth.and.man@gmail.<br />

com, www.earthandman.org. Despite being housed in<br />

an impressively restored nineteenth-century arsenal, this<br />

geology collection is less dramatic than its title suggests,<br />

exhaustively cataloguing the earth’s minerals with rows and<br />

rows of rock-filled display cases. The outlandish, brightlycoloured<br />

quartz crystals on the ground floor just about make<br />

a visit worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />

Admission: 2Lv.<br />

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzey) B-3, pl.<br />

Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 988 41 91, fax 980 11 62,<br />

eim_bas@mail.bg, ethnography.cc.bas.bg. Scintillating<br />

displays of folk arts and crafts, drawn from the museum’s vast<br />

collection. Situated in the east wing of the former royal palace.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3Lv.<br />

Ivan Vazov Museum-House (Kashta-muzey Ivan<br />

Vazov) B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 10, tel. 988 12 70, vazovmuseum@slovo.bg.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s most revered literary figure, Ivan<br />

Vazov (1850-1921) is best known for writing Under the Yoke<br />

(Pod igoto), a sprawling novel detailing small-town <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

life at the time of the anti-Ottoman uprising of 1876. The<br />

house where he lived from 1895 until death is a charming<br />

period piece, with furnishings, crockery, bookshelves - and<br />

even the stuffed remains of Bobi the dog - pretty much preserved<br />

as Vazov left it. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00<br />

- 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission:<br />

1Lv. Lecture 3Lv.<br />

National Museum of Military History (Natsionalen<br />

Voennoistoricheski muzey) G-8, ul. Cherkovna 92, tel.<br />

946 18 05, fax 946 18 06, m.museum@bol.bg, www.<br />

militarymuseum.bg. A couple of display halls, stuffed with<br />

uniforms and weaponry, and a hugely enjoyable outdoor section<br />

featuring all manner of tanks, jet fighters and Soviet-era<br />

long-range missiles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,<br />

Tue. Admission: 2Lv. Lecture: 10Lv.<br />

National Museum of Natural History (Natsionalen<br />

Prirodonauchen muzey) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel<br />

1, tel. 987 41 95, fax 988 28 94, www.nmnh.bas.bg.<br />

Rocks, insects, stuffed animals, creatures in bottles, and<br />

live reptiles slithering about optimistically in search of small<br />

mammals - so keep a firm grip on the kids. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 18:00. Admission: 2Lv.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHat to see<br />

Galleries<br />

Icon Gallery B-3, in the crypt of the Aleksander Nevski<br />

Memorial Church, tel. 981 57 75. Stunning collection of<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n icons from the medieval period to the nineteenth<br />

century. Portrayals of horse-riding warrior saints such as<br />

George and Demetrius are particularly prominent: they served<br />

as potent symbols of struggle and survival during the long<br />

centuries of Ottoman rule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />

Mon. Admission: 4Lv.<br />

Sofia City Art Gallery B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 987 21 81,<br />

sghg2@bgnet.bg, www.sghg.cult.bg. The Sofia City Art<br />

Gallery possesses some of the richest collections of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

art: 3500 paintings, 800 statues, 2800 graphtics and drawings.<br />

The Contemporary Art and Photography department was<br />

founded in 2004. With 1100 square meters of exposition space<br />

divided into four compartments the Gallery arranges some 30<br />

exhibitions every year. Most of the exhibitions display works<br />

from the Gallery’s collections. <strong>In</strong> addition visiting one-man,<br />

group and general exhibitions of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and foreign artists<br />

are arranged. Studies on present-day art and work with young<br />

artists became a special focus of the Gallery’s policy in recent<br />

years. Sofia City Art Gallery is a museum with long-standing<br />

traditions. Its role is to present the facts of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cultural<br />

history in an analytical and modern way and to actively intervene<br />

in art developments by original and impressive projects.<br />

We recommend you to visit also the Vaska Emanuilova Gallery,<br />

branch of the Sofia City Art Gallery B-5 bul. Yanko Sakuzov 15,<br />

tel. 944 11 75, www.veg.cult.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />

11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />

National Art Gallery<br />

National Art Gallery (Natsionalna hudozhestvena<br />

galeria) B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1,<br />

tel. 980 33 25, sofim@abv.bg. The country’s flagship<br />

collection occupies one half of the former royal palace,<br />

where creaky parquet floors and ornate stuccoed ceilings<br />

provide the perfect environment in which to peruse an<br />

all-embracing overview of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n painting. Strikingly,<br />

canvases are hung in the middle of the room rather than<br />

on the walls round the sides. Look out in particular for the<br />

works of Vladimir Dimitrov-Maistora (1882-1960), whose<br />

pictures of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n peasant girls surrounded by apples,<br />

apricots and other fruit have a timeless, spiritual quality<br />

reminiscent of Orthodox icons. If you have a hankering<br />

for more modern stuff then head for the ground-floor<br />

galleries, where temporary exhibitions of contemporary<br />

art are staged. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Admission: 3Lv.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

45


46 WHat to see<br />

National Gallery of Foreign Art<br />

National Gallery of Foreign Art (Natsionalna<br />

galeria za chuzhdestranno izkustvo) B-4, pl.<br />

Aleksandar Nevski 1, tel. 988 49 22/980 72 62,<br />

ngfa@abv.bg, www.foreignartmuseum.bg. Wideranging<br />

collection of work by fair-to-middling artists you<br />

probably haven’t heard of before. You’ll come across one<br />

or two famous names if you look closely enough, but much<br />

of the best stuff is of a small-format variety (a pastel by<br />

Renoir here, a lithograph by Picasso there) - so it would<br />

be unwise to come here with high expectations. There’s<br />

a fourth-century Roman tomb in the basement (labelled<br />

“room 19” on the museum plan), but it’s not always open.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Tue. Admission: 4Lv.<br />

Guided tours in English: 15-30Lv (Monday free).<br />

Churches<br />

Holy Sunday Church (Tsurkva Sveta Nedelya) B-3,<br />

pl. Sveta Nedelya, tel. 987 57 48. The main city-centre<br />

church and the preferred venue for Saturday-afternoon<br />

weddings, this nouveau-Byzantine structure is the twentieth-<br />

century incarnation of a church that has stood on this spot<br />

since medieval times. It has long been associated with the<br />

miracle-working bones of Serbian king Stefan Urosh, which<br />

are still kept in a wooden box to the right of the iconostasis.<br />

It is popularly believed that certain female health problems<br />

can be cured by leaving an appropriate piece of underwear<br />

in the box for 24 hours (and if you want to test this out<br />

you should really contact the priest, not us). The church’s<br />

other claim to fame is the flamboyantly ambitious terrorist<br />

attack that took place here in 1925, when left-wing activists<br />

attempted to bomb the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n royal family while<br />

they were attending a funeral. A huge explosion destroyed<br />

much of the church and killed 100 mourners, but the royals<br />

escaped unscathed. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily liturgy<br />

08:30 and 16:00.<br />

Church of St Petka of the Saddlemakers (Tsurkva<br />

Sveta Petka Samardzhiyska) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost.<br />

It’s not often that you come across a fourteenth-century<br />

church stranded in the middle of a semi-submerged shopping<br />

mall, but this is the fate that befell St Petka when Sofia’s<br />

post-war planners decided to run a two-lane highway round<br />

either side of it. <strong>In</strong>congruously surrounded by glass-fronted<br />

souvenir shops, it’s a delightful, cramped space that feels<br />

more like a damp cave than a church, and features some<br />

faded sixteenth-century frescoes.<br />

Church of St Sofia (Tsurkva Sveta Sofia) B-4, ul.<br />

Parizh 2, tel. 987 09 71. A church since the fifth century<br />

and rebuilt many times since, this was used as a mosque<br />

during the Ottoman period and then abandoned when an<br />

earthquake rendered it unsafe for services. With most of its<br />

medieval decorations and frescoes lost, it’s a comparatively<br />

plain church by Sofia standards, but the patterned brickwork<br />

provides the interior with enormous visual appeal. A fragment<br />

of original Roman mosaic flooring, preserved under a pane<br />

of glass in the right-hand aisle, stands in testimony to the<br />

church’s ancient origins. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Church of the Holy Seven (Tsurkva Sveti Sedmochislentsi)<br />

C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev, tel. 987 80 23.<br />

One of Sofia’s most handsome neo-Byzantine churches, with<br />

twentieth-century towers and domes tacked on to a much<br />

older central core - which served as an Ottoman mosque<br />

(then briefly as a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n prison) before reverting to its<br />

original ecclesiastical function. The church honours ninthcentury<br />

Saints Cyril, Methodius and their five followers - who<br />

brought literacy to the Slavs and propagated Christianity<br />

throughout Eastern Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily<br />

liturgy 08:00 and 17:00<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Mosque<br />

Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,<br />

bul. Maria Luiza. The last surviving mosque in Sofia still in<br />

use, the building consists of a large dome and an elegant<br />

minaret and takes its name from the neighbouring Central<br />

Baths - Banya Bashi literally means ‘many baths’. Dating<br />

from 1576, the mosque is said to have been designed by<br />

Hadji Mimar Sinan, the leading Ottoman architect of the day.<br />

The mosque fell into disuse during Communist rule but is now<br />

open for worship once again - you can hear the loudspeakers<br />

on the minaret calling the Muslims of the city to prayer five<br />

times a day. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist<br />

attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times,<br />

including women, if modestly dressed.<br />

Synagogue<br />

Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983<br />

12 73, fax 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@mail.orbitel.<br />

bg, www.sofiasynagogue.com. Dating from 1909, this<br />

extravagant building is a fitting monument to the community<br />

that once made up one fifth of Sofia’s population.<br />

Jewish leaders are widely thought to have dissuaded the<br />

Turks from torching the city in 1878, and the respect they<br />

commanded among their fellow citizens probably explains<br />

why they felt able to erect such a joyously extrovert piece<br />

of architecture right beside Sofia’s main street. Viennese<br />

designer Friedrich Gruenanger mixed Byzantine and Moorish<br />

styles to produce a huge domed building flanked by<br />

decorous turrets. Dominating feature of the interior is the<br />

2250kg chandelier hanging from the cupola, surrounded by<br />

Art Nouveau-inspired wall decorations. The synagogue was<br />

originally built to accommodate around 1300 worshippers -<br />

nowadays attendance figures at services hover around the<br />

50-60 mark. The Synagogue gives certificates for kosher<br />

(ehsher) for food and other products and offers, on request,<br />

kosher and other traditional Jewish Sephardic dishes. On<br />

the 2nd floor the Synagogue hosts The Jewish Museum of<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHat to see<br />

History, tel. 983 14 40, jewishmuseum@shalom.bg, Open<br />

9:00-12:30 and 13:00-16:00. Closed on Sat, Sun. Lectures<br />

in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, English and Hebrew are included in the entrance<br />

fee - 2Lv. Displayed are two permanent exhibitions “The<br />

Jewish communities in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>” and “The Holocaust and the<br />

rescue of the Jews in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>”. QThe Synagogue is open<br />

08:30 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Sofia districts-Boyana and<br />

Dragalevtsi<br />

Uphill For The Riches<br />

Crawling all over the body of the Vitosha Mountain, the<br />

neighborhoods of Boyana and Dragalevtsi are getting<br />

bigger and more densely populated as bigger, better<br />

and more expensive homes are being built, almost<br />

overnight. They are both situated to the south of Sofia,<br />

after the Ring road and climb up to a considerable<br />

height. These living areas are occupied mostly by<br />

wealthier people, government officials and politicians<br />

and are considered as the best and most expensive to<br />

live in. Of course, some contradicting sights as a huge,<br />

expensive and modern house with a decaying street,<br />

spotted with gaping holes, in front of it are quite common.<br />

The inclination of the landscape and the mountain<br />

itself, present some problems for the locals, especially<br />

in winter, when cars slide and people are tumbling down<br />

the frozen streets. However, both neighborhoods exist<br />

above the level of the city smog and just a single look<br />

to the grey clouds down there would make everybody<br />

envious of the local citizens. Local landmarks and<br />

historical sights are the monastery in Dragalevtsi and<br />

the Boyana Church, which is a part of the UNESCO World<br />

Heritage List and definitely a compulsory place for all<br />

tourists to visit. The National Historical Museum is also<br />

located in Boyana, on the premises of the residence<br />

of the former dictator Todor Zhivkov. Boyana is also<br />

famous for the Film Center, which is used for local and<br />

many foreign film productions.<br />

Hopefully Boyana and Dragalevtsi will soon improve as<br />

infrastructure and become a modern and elite suburban<br />

area of Sofia.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

47


48 WHat to see<br />

Statues<br />

Aleksandar Stamboliyski B-4, Corner of ul. Rakovski<br />

and ul. Vrabcha. Leader of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n National Peasants’<br />

Party, and Prime Minister from 1919 to 1923, Aleksandar<br />

Stamboliyski presided over a radical government that promised<br />

fair land distribution and a revival of village life. Conservative<br />

circles feared a peasant revolution, and Stamboliyski<br />

was overthrown, tortured, and chopped into several pieces by<br />

paid killers - it’s a shame that nothing like this ever happened<br />

to Todor Zhivkov. Stamboliyski’s statue now stands beside<br />

the Opera House (strangely, both the National Opera and the<br />

National Peasants’ Party share the same building).<br />

Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi B-5, Sofia University, bul.<br />

Tsar Osvoboditel 15. The Georgiev brothers made their fortunes<br />

in nineteenth-century Odessa, then used their wealth to<br />

fund the establishment of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-language schools. Their<br />

place in the country’s cultural pantheon assured, they now<br />

bask beside the steps of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s biggest university like a<br />

pair of contented walruses.<br />

Monument to Holy Wisdom (Statuya na Sveta Sofia)<br />

B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Once occupied by a behemothsized<br />

statue of Lenin, this prime city-centre site was left vacant<br />

throughout the 1990s, and it wasn’t until the millennium<br />

that this 24-metre-high bronze goddess - an allegory of “Holy<br />

Wisdom” - appeared on the spot. The city of Sofia originally<br />

got its name from the Church of Sveta Sofia (“Holy Wisdom”)<br />

in the centre, and this statue was intended to symbolize the<br />

connection. However it was far from clear how an abstract<br />

concept like “Holy Wisdom” could be portrayed in a sculpture<br />

(is it a bird? is it a plane? is it a 24-metre-high bronze woman?),<br />

and Sofians remain unsure whether this shiny female with a<br />

dove in her right hand really fits the bill.<br />

Monument to the Tsar Liberator (Pametnik Tsar<br />

Osvoboditel) B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie. This 14-metrehigh<br />

lump of bronze designed by Italian artist Arnoldo Zocci<br />

honours Russian Tsar Alexander II who, by declaring war on<br />

the Ottoman Empire in 1877, liberated <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in the process.<br />

The reliefs surrounding the pedestal represent a scene in<br />

which the godess of victory leads troops into battle.<br />

Ugly Sofia<br />

Monument to the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n State (Pametnik<br />

na balgarskata darzhava) C-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Sofia<br />

is probably unique in Europe in being the only capital<br />

which can boast a decaying pile of junk as one of its<br />

major downtown focal points. Unveiled in 1981 to mark<br />

the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

state, this unimaginably shoddy memorial is an eloquent<br />

metaphor for much that has happened in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in the<br />

intervening 25 years. It was barely a decade old when it<br />

started falling to bits, and the question of who should pay<br />

for its refurbishment (or demolition) has been the object<br />

of inconclusive bickering ever since.<br />

An angular piece of modern sculpture with statues<br />

emerging absurdly from its summit, the monument has<br />

long been the object of popular scorn - “the seven-angled<br />

thing with five pricks” being the most enduring of its many<br />

nicknames. Currently surrounded by hoardings to prevent<br />

bits of it from falling on the heads of passers by, its future<br />

remains uncertain.<br />

The empty space in front of the National Gallery<br />

B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenbeg. The empty space<br />

in front of the national gallery stands in eloquent tribute<br />

to the vacuous posturing of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s post-communist<br />

rulers. The building that used to stand on this spot<br />

was one of socialist-era Sofia’s principal landmarks, a<br />

mausoleum, built to house the corpse of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s first<br />

communist leader Georgi Dimitrov. Dimitrov’s body was<br />

removed in 1990, but arguments about how it is best to<br />

use the building itself, dragged on for a decade. Eventually<br />

the right-wing government of Ivan Kostov decided<br />

to blow the mausoleum up, believing that such an act<br />

would somehow symbolize <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s triumphant march<br />

towards democracy. President, prime minister and foreign<br />

dignitaries assembled to view the demolition in January<br />

2000, only to discover that repeated detonations failed to<br />

bring the mausoleum down. Eventually the crowds drifted<br />

away, and the bulldozers were brought in.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHat to see<br />

Petko and Pencho Slaveykovi C-3, pl. Slaveykov.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s foremost father-and-son literary duo perch on a<br />

bench beside the square that, appropriately enough, now<br />

hosts Sofia’s biggest book market. Educationalist, politician<br />

and writer Petko Slaveykov (1827-1895) did much to preserve<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n literature’s links with its folkloric roots; while his son<br />

Pencho (1866-1912) took things a step further by penning<br />

modern verse influenced by Romanticism, Symbolism and<br />

other modish western currents.<br />

Popa C-4, corner of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Patriarh<br />

Evtimiy. This rather unpretentious statue of a bearded<br />

ecclesiastic honours Patriarch Euthymius (Patriarh Evtimiy in<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n), the fourteenth-century church leader who presided<br />

over the flowering <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culture before being led into<br />

captivity by the Ottoman Turks in 1393. It’s nowadays the<br />

most popular meeting point in the city - if you’re going on a<br />

date or a bar crawl, the chances are you’ll rendezvous here.<br />

“Popa” is <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n slang for “priest”.<br />

Stefan Stambolov B-4, Corner of bul. Tsar Osvoboditel<br />

and ul. Rakovski. Prime Minister from 1887 to 1894,<br />

Stefan Stambolov was the most talented - but also the<br />

most controversial - politician of his generation, pursuing<br />

pro-western liberal policies while at the same time locking up<br />

opponents and silencing the press. Sacked by Prince Ferdinand<br />

in May 1894, he was hacked to death on ul. Rakovski<br />

by sword-wielding assassins 12 months later. This curiously<br />

egg-shaped sculpture sprouting from a corner of Kristal park<br />

serves as some kind of tribute.<br />

St St Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril i<br />

Metodiy) B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 88. Standing proudly in<br />

front of the colonnaded façade of the National Library, these<br />

January - March 2009<br />

49


50 WHat to see<br />

Socialist Sofia<br />

As with many authoritarian regimes throughout the<br />

ages, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communist rulers suffered from an<br />

overweening desire to turn politics into a highly visible<br />

part of the urban landscape. Government buildings were<br />

conceived as grandiose statements of political order,<br />

while statues of socialist heroes employed simple, often<br />

childlike imagery to teach important ideological lessons.<br />

Despite the demolition of many communist landmarks<br />

after 1989 (notably the rotund statue of Lenin that once<br />

rose like a malevolent iron pig above the central pl.<br />

Nezavisimost), present-day Sofia still boasts a compelling<br />

collection of sites where you can examine socialist<br />

art at first hand.<br />

Friendship Bridge (Most na druzhbata) C-4,<br />

crossing of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Evlogi Georgiev.<br />

Built in 1953 to symbolize brotherhood between <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

and the Soviet Union (a relationship in which one brother<br />

was always bigger than the other), this bridge boasts an<br />

impressive ensemble of sculptures, with statues representing<br />

the peasantry, the intelligentsia and the armed forces.<br />

Most telling inclusion is the pair of nineteenth-century<br />

Russian and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n soldiers on the north-eastern pier:<br />

a clever piece of propaganda suggesting that the Soviet<br />

Union’s “liberation” of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in 1945 was simply a repeat<br />

performance of the Liberation of 1878.<br />

Mound of Brotherhood<br />

(Bratska<br />

mogila) G-8, Borisova<br />

gradina. Many of<br />

the artists responsible<br />

for the Soviet Army<br />

Monument also worked<br />

on the Mound of Brotherhood,<br />

a 42-metrehigh<br />

obelisk that rises<br />

dramatically from a<br />

ridge in the south-eastern<br />

corner of Borisova<br />

gradina park. Built in<br />

1956, it is intended to<br />

commemorate those<br />

who fought and fell in<br />

various stages of the struggle against fascism - from the<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n communist uprising of September 1923 (a badlyplanned<br />

affair that culminated with most of the participants<br />

being rounded up and shot) to the Red-Army offensives of<br />

World War II. A monumental statue of machine-gun-toting<br />

partisans stands at the base of the obelisk, while basreliefs<br />

on either side portray striking workers, and Soviet<br />

troops being greeted by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n civilians.<br />

Soviet-style fresco E-4, wall of a school on ul. Sveti<br />

Naum. Hidden from the street by a politically-prudish pair<br />

of trees, this is one of the few examples of agit-prop art<br />

still to be found in the city. The fatherly face of Lenin beams<br />

down from one side of the wall, while a ruggedly handsome<br />

cosmonaut smoulders away quietly on the other.<br />

Soviet Army Monument (Pametnik na Savetskata<br />

armia) C-5, Orlov most. Built in 1954 by a team of<br />

architects and artists working under Danko Mitov, this<br />

is one of the best examples of socialist sculpture in<br />

the Balkans, and also one of the most controversial. A<br />

skyline-dominating 34-metre-high pillar, it is crowned by a<br />

flamboyant statue of a Red Army soldier, leading a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

couple towards the Promised Land of communism. Bronze<br />

bas-reliefs on either side of the pillar show scenes from the<br />

October revolution, World War II battles, and Soviet troops<br />

entering <strong>Bulgaria</strong> to be greeted joyfully by the locals. <strong>In</strong> 1993<br />

Sofia City Council voted to destroy the monument, pointing<br />

out quite rightly that it symbolized <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s subservience<br />

to a foreign power. Faced by opposition from the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

Socialist Party, and discouraged by the potential cost of<br />

its demolition, the Council had no choice but to leave the<br />

monument as it is. For much of the last decade the area<br />

around the monument has become the favoured meeting<br />

point of Sofia’s skateboarders, although construction work<br />

on the Sofia metro has recently encroached on their space.<br />

Turn up on important dates like May 9 (the anniversary of<br />

Germany’s surrender in 1945) or September 9 (anniversary<br />

of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communist-led coup in 1944) and you’ll probably<br />

see die-hard communists gathering at the monument<br />

to demonstrate their undying faith in the cause.<br />

Statues outside Vasil Levski Stadium C-4, bul.<br />

Evlogi Georgiev. Authoritarian regimes have frequently<br />

exploited the popularity of sport to build a cult of strength,<br />

discipline and order. Produced by a team of sculptors in<br />

the mid-fifties, these idealized statues outside the main<br />

entrance to the stadium are perfect examples of this cult<br />

in action. Depicting footballers, athletes, gymnasts and<br />

other examples of socialist achievement and perfection, the<br />

statues were originally eight in number. An empty pedestal<br />

marks the spot where one of them went missing, presumed<br />

stolen, in the mid-1990s.<br />

The Party House (Partien dom) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost.<br />

Sofia may lack the bombastic baroque skyscrapers,s<br />

bestowed by Stalin on Moscow and Warsaw, but the<br />

local ruling caste did at least make an effort with this<br />

custard-coloured neo-classical edifice at the end of pl.<br />

Nezavisimost. Built to house the Communist Party Central<br />

Committee, it once sported a massive red star atop its<br />

rocket-like spire - when protesters attempted to torch the<br />

building in August 1990, the star was hastily removed. The<br />

building now provides office space for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n MPs.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


ninth-century monks from Thessaloniki are celebrated for<br />

their invention of an entirely new alphabet, which they used<br />

to translate the holy gospels into the Slav languages. Subsequently<br />

modified by their disciples, the alphabet is nowadays<br />

known as Cyrillic, and is used in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus,<br />

Macedonia and Serbia as well as in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> itself.<br />

Other sights<br />

National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets na<br />

kulturata) D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 916 68 30, www.ndk.<br />

bg. Opinions differ as to whether the “largest multifunctional<br />

complex in southeastern Europe” is an attraction or an eyesore,<br />

but its dominating position at the southern end of bul. Vitosha<br />

makes it difficult to miss. Built in the 1980s this hexagonal lump<br />

of concrete and glass looks like a child’s building block inflated<br />

to unearthly size. <strong>In</strong>side lie thirteen concert halls of varying<br />

sizes, fifty-five congress rooms, and innumerable offices, The<br />

basement level now accommodates a cramped shopping mall<br />

stuffed with inexpensive clothes and accessories.<br />

The Central Baths (Tsentralna banya) B-3, bul.<br />

Maria Luiza. Built in 1911 and decorated with exquisite tile<br />

mosaics, this wonderful Art Nouveau-cum-Nouveau Byzantine<br />

bathhouse is for many people the most beautiful building<br />

in the capital. Derelict for many years and now undergoing<br />

restoration and will probably re-surface in the near future as<br />

a luxurious SPA and fitness center, so all this mineral water<br />

will not run wasted.<br />

The Central Military club (Tsentralen voenen klub)<br />

B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 988 17 46. This three<br />

storey monumental building, designed in the neo-renaissance<br />

style , houses a cafe, an art gallery, 2 refined halls and an<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHat to see<br />

impressive concert hall. The plase looks like a palace and the<br />

concert hall used to be a ball room. Even though it is not a<br />

regular club keep your eyes and ears wide-open for any event<br />

which might take place there, and consider yourself fortunate<br />

if you have the chance to attend one. The concert hall is often<br />

rented out for private party events and it is guaranteed that<br />

each one will be prestigious.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

51


52 WHat to see<br />

Mount Vitosha<br />

Vitosha Mountain is the closest to Sofia skiing<br />

location. It’s just about half an hour uphill. The climate is<br />

fairly mild, however, it can become quite cold above 1200<br />

meters. There are two peaks, which are more than 2000<br />

meters high, including Cherni Vrah – Vitosha’s champion,<br />

and 18 peaks are more than 1500 meters above sea<br />

level. There are 13 ski tracks of varied difficulty - the<br />

easiest are Polyana, Lale (educational) and Zelena Pista;<br />

the moderately difficult tracks are: ski path “Laleto”, Sinya<br />

pista, Cherni vrah, Laleto 3; it is difficult to ride on: Diagonala<br />

1, Diagonala 2, Stenata, Laleto 1 and very difficult<br />

on the runs Kozirkata na Bobi, and Laleto 2. The most<br />

hard working of you, who just can miss those morning<br />

hours on the job also have the possibility for practicing<br />

their favorite sport - there is a ski track for night skiing – “<br />

Vitoshko lale”. You can get there by bus, by car and by the<br />

so called mini buses.<br />

Lift lines:<br />

Simeonovo – Aleko chalet – 8.30 – 16.30 (bus lines<br />

122 and 123)<br />

Dragalevtsi – Bay Krastyo – Goli Vrah – 8.30 – 16.30<br />

(bus line 93)<br />

The prices varied from 35.00Lv per day to 147.00Lv<br />

for 6 days lift pass. The lift passes are valid for all of<br />

the facilities in the Aleko ski zone, except Dragalevki lift.<br />

Sofia bridges<br />

When you walk through Sofia downtown two bridges can<br />

fix your eyes not with the large rivers, which runs under<br />

them, but with their architectural values.<br />

Lavov Most (Lions’ Bridge) over the Vladaiska River<br />

is well known with its four lions statues placed on high<br />

pedestals. It was built in 1889-1891 by Czech architect<br />

Václav Prošek, his brother Jozef and his cousins Bohdan<br />

and Jiří. The bridge was built from stone at the place of an<br />

older bridge called Sharen most (“Motley Bridge”) because<br />

it was decorated with red and yellow stripes. The name of<br />

the bridge comes from the four bronze sculptures of lions,<br />

its most recognizable feature. All metal elements of the<br />

bridge were produced by the Austrian company of Rudolph<br />

Philipp Waagner, and electric lights were installed in the<br />

early 1900s. The entire construction of the bridge cost<br />

260,000 golden leva which amounts to approximately 1<br />

433 425,97 EUR today.The Prošek family also designed<br />

and built the similar but eagle-themed Orlov most marking<br />

the city centre’s eastern border in 1891.<br />

Orlov most (Eagles’ Bridge) is well distinguished by its<br />

four bronze eagles, which are facing the four directions of<br />

the world and are mounted on 12-metre pylons. Perlovska<br />

River runs under the bridge in the city center. The bridge<br />

is located in the immediate proximity to the Vasil Levski<br />

National Stadium, the Monument to the Soviet Army and<br />

the park Borisova gradina. The bridge connects Sofia<br />

downtown with Mladost quarter and also you can go<br />

through it if you want to go to Sofia airport or to go out<br />

into the Trakia highway to Plovdiv. The entire construction<br />

of the bridge cost 80,000 golden leva which amounts to<br />

approximately 440 800 EUR today.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


The Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2. Directly<br />

opposite the archeological museum is the entrance to the<br />

suite of offices where the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n president does his<br />

nine-to-five job, guarded by soldiers dressed in ceremonial<br />

nineteenth-century uniforms. The changing of the guard, which<br />

takes place on the hour, involves a lot of ritualistic marching<br />

about, and is well worth watching.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHat to see<br />

Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Built at the<br />

same time as the Central Baths and in similar architectural<br />

vein, this indoor market hall boasts some beautifully restored<br />

period features - notably the glass roof, cast iron pillars and<br />

Victorian clock tower. Delicatessen stalls at ground level and<br />

fast food counters upstairs ensure a constant stream of visitors.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

53


54 Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />

Public transport<br />

Sofia is amply covered by an interlocking network of trams,<br />

buses and trolleybuses, with services running from about<br />

05:00 to 23:30. Despite some new additions to the fleet,<br />

however, vehicles tend to be antiquated, filthy, overcrowded<br />

and above all slow: it can take half a lifetime to cross the<br />

city from one side to the other. An additional problem is<br />

posed by the lack of information concerning routes - while<br />

bus and tram stops in the city centre are marked with<br />

numbers of services and details (in Cyrillic) of destinations<br />

served, those in the suburbs are invariably rusty old shacks<br />

bearing no information whatsoever. <strong>Your</strong> only hope is to<br />

buy a decent city map with tram and bus lines marked on<br />

it - then study it for as many months as it takes to learn<br />

them all by heart.<br />

Single-journey tickets cost 1Lv and can be bought from street<br />

kiosks or from the driver. Once on board each ticket must<br />

be validated by punching it in one of the primitive pronged<br />

machines positioned near the doors of the vehicle. A strip<br />

(talon) of 10 tickets costs 7.50Lv but take care to use them<br />

in sequence - tickets numbered 1 to 9 are not valid unless<br />

you’ve still got the tenth one in your possession. Officially,<br />

you’re supposed to punch an extra ticket for each large item<br />

of baggage, but in practice this is rarely enforced - except<br />

on buses to and from the airport. <strong>In</strong>spections are frequent<br />

and there are spot-fines for fare-dodgers - officially 10Lv,<br />

although unscrupulous inspectors delight in making foreigners<br />

pay more.<br />

Passes valid for one day (karta za edin den - 4Lv), or one<br />

month (karta za edin mesets - 50Lv), are also available - but<br />

they can only be bought from kiosks at major stops, not<br />

from the driver.<br />

Minibus<br />

Several popular cross-town routes are operated by privately<br />

owned minibuses (marshrutki). Rather than being limited to<br />

specific stops, they can be hailed at any point along their<br />

route, and will drop passengers off on request. There aren’t<br />

any tickets: simply jump in, press yourself into an available<br />

corner, and pass 1.50Lv forward towards the driver.<br />

Many people prefer marshrutki to regular buses because<br />

of their speed and convenience; others are turned off by<br />

the tendency of drivers to pack passengers in like sardines<br />

and then career around the city like crazed drag racers. If<br />

you’re in any way prone to travel sickness, don’t forget to<br />

take a puke bag.<br />

Metro<br />

A single metro line runs from Serdika station in the city<br />

centre to the western suburb of Lyulin - which is great if<br />

you happen to live in Lyulin, but not much use otherwise.<br />

If you fancy a ride just for the heck of it, tickets (1Lv) are<br />

different from those used in trams and buses, and can<br />

only be purchased from ticket counters in the underground<br />

stations themselves.<br />

Trains<br />

Central Station (Tsentralna gara) F-7, bul. Mariya<br />

Luiza, tel. 931 11 11 / 932 33 33 (information in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

only). English-language timetable information on<br />

www.bdz.bg. Despite recent renovation Sofia’s main train<br />

station remains a dispiritingly dingy hive, comprising two<br />

Domestic train schedule<br />

From Sofia To Sofia<br />

Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.<br />

06:30 08:27 PLOVDIV 06:00 08:37<br />

06:38 09:40 PLOVDIV 06:30 10:09<br />

08:30 10:48 PLOVDIV 07:00 09:18<br />

10:40 13:04 PLOVDIV 08:00 10:20<br />

13:45 16:05 PLOVDIV 08:30 10:50<br />

14:15 17:16 PLOVDIV 11:45 14:20<br />

15:30 17:29 PLOVDIV 12:00 15:07<br />

16:30 18:29 PLOVDIV 13:00 15:34<br />

16:55 20:20 PLOVDIV 14:10 17:30<br />

17:30 19:52 PLOVDIV 15:40 18:17<br />

18:35 20:50 PLOVDIV 17:25 20:30<br />

19:10 21:10 PLOVDIV 18:10 20:46<br />

22:40 01:10 PLOVDIV 19:40 21:55<br />

06:30 12:27 BURGAS 05:30 11:40<br />

07:10 14:00 BURGAS 06:55 14:20<br />

10:40 18:00 BURGAS 10:40 18:17<br />

13:45 20:52 BURGAS 14:20 21:15<br />

16:00 22:14 BURGAS 15:40 21:55<br />

22:20 07:07 BURGAS 22:15 05:35<br />

07:05 13:38 RUSE 06:00 12:34<br />

07:45 14:05 RUSE 08:02 14:58<br />

09:55 17:16 RUSE 11:15 18:54<br />

15:30 21:48 RUSE 13:10 20:36<br />

19:30 02:05 RUSE 15:20 21:33<br />

23:00 05:41 RUSE 21:55 06:30<br />

23:35 07:11 RUSE 23:30 06:00<br />

07:05 14:04 VARNA 07:55 14:58<br />

09:55 17:55 VARNA 09:20 18:17<br />

10:40 19:15 VARNA 10:55 18:54<br />

13:25 21:18 VARNA 12:40 20:36<br />

21:10 05:25 VARNA 21:40 06:00<br />

22:20 06:43 VARNA 22:30 06:30<br />

23:35 07:45 VARNA 23:05 07:25<br />

For further information call tel.932 42 80<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational train schedule<br />

From Sofia To Sofia<br />

Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.<br />

07:01 12:54 THESSALONICA 17:34 23:25<br />

17:05 22:52 THESSALONICA 23:49 06:30<br />

07:45 17:19 BUCHAREST 12:16 21:33<br />

19:30 05:44 BUCHAREST 20:04 06:00<br />

11:55 19:18 BELGRADE 07:50 17:40<br />

21:20 04:48 BELGRADE 21:15 07:15<br />

19:10 08:19 ISTANBUL 22:00 10:50<br />

For further information call tel.932 42 80<br />

� The Sofia<br />

telephone code is: 02<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Flight schedule<br />

floors of queue-clogged ticket counters, functional cafes<br />

and hole-in-the-wall shops. Brightening things up considerably<br />

is the flirty little steam engine (built by the German<br />

Henschel company in 1918) parked right in the middle of<br />

the main ticket hall.<br />

Always allow plenty of time to buy your tickets and board<br />

your train: platforms are often numbered differently to<br />

the tracks running either side of them, so you may find<br />

yourself scuttling up and down several stairways in an<br />

effort to locate your train. Tickets to Varna and northern<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> are sold in the main ticket hall; tickets to Burgas<br />

and southern <strong>Bulgaria</strong> are sold in the basement. <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />

tickets are sold by the Rila office, which is located<br />

at the end of a corridor leading off the main ticket hall to<br />

the left as you enter.<br />

Tickets can be bought in advance from two locations in the<br />

city centre: Transport Service Centre, in the basement<br />

shopping mall of the National Palace of Culture (NDK), tel.<br />

932 42 80. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun,<br />

and Railway Ticket Agency Rila /international lines/,<br />

ul. Gurko 5, tel. 987 07 77. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:30.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />

From Sofia To Sofia<br />

Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />

1-34-67 07:00 09:00 AMSTERDAM FB 1-34-67 10:40 14:10<br />

-2--5-- 09:50 11:50 AMSTERDAM FB -2—5-- 12:50 16:30<br />

1-3---- 07:00 08:15 ATHENS FB 1-3---- 09:00 10:15<br />

----567 18:15 19:30 ATHENS OA 1----67 16:10 17:25<br />

1234567 16:10 16:30 BUDAPEST MA 1234567 13:05 15:25<br />

12345-- 09:30 10:15 BUCHAREST FB 12345-- 10:55 11:40<br />

12-45-- 06:15 07:45 FRANKFURT LH 12-45-- 10:35 13:50<br />

1------ 09:20 10:50 FRANKFURT FB -234567 18:30 21:55<br />

----5-- 10:25 11:55 ISTANBUL FB ----5-- 12:55 14:30<br />

123---- 10:45 12:00 ISTANBUL TK 123---- 08:30 09:45<br />

1234567 07:45 09:15 LONDON FB 1234567 10:30 15:30<br />

1234567 14:30 15:45 LONDON BA 1234567 08:35 13:45<br />

-2-4-6- 12:45 13:55 MILAN WA -2-4-6- 19:35 22:35<br />

1234567 20:40 21:50 MILAN AZ 1234567 07:05 17:00<br />

-----67 07:00 08:00 MUNICH LH 1234567 09:30 12:30<br />

-2----- 13:10 14:10 MUNICH LH 1234567 13:00 16:00<br />

1-3-5-7 07:55 10:00 PARIS FB 1-3-5-7 11:40 15:30<br />

1234567 15:05 17:00 PARIS AF 1-345-7 10:20 14:05<br />

1234567 06:50 07:45 PRAGUE OK 1234567 07:25 09:00<br />

1234567 15:10 16:05 PRAGUE OK -2-456- 11:30 14:25<br />

1-3-5-7 06:10 07:10 ROME WA 1234567 13:05 16:00<br />

1234567 08:45 09:35 VIENA OS 1234567 10:50 13:30<br />

12345-- 17:50 18:40 VIENA OS 1234567 13:40 16:20<br />

1234567 15:20 16:05 VIENA OS 1234567 17:55 22:25<br />

1234567 14:40 15:35 WARSAW LO 1234567 11:00 13:55<br />

Airlines codes: AF- Air France, AZ- Alitalia , BA - British Airways, FB - <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Air, LH - Lufthansa, LO - Lot Polish Airlines,<br />

MA - Malev Hungarian Airlines , OA - Olympic Airlines, OS - Austrian Airlines, OK - Czech Airlines, RO - Tarom Romanian<br />

Airlines, TK - Turkish Airlines, WA – Wizz Air<br />

For further information call tel. 937 22 11, 937 22 12 www.flybulgaria.bg<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Bus schedule<br />

To Burgas - 07:00, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30, 09:45, 10:00,<br />

10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 15:00, 15:30,<br />

16:00, 16:30,16:45, 17:00, 18:00, 20:30, 22:30, 23:00,<br />

00:00, 00:30<br />

To Bansko – 07:30, 08:30, 09:45,11:25, 13:15, 14:00,<br />

16:45<br />

To Ruse – 06:15, 07:00, 08:00, 08:30, 09:30, 10:30,<br />

12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 14;30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00,<br />

17:00, 17:30, 18:30, 19:00, 22:00<br />

To Varna – 06:30, 07:30, 07:45, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00,<br />

09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00,<br />

14.30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17;30, 18:00, 19:00, 22:30,<br />

00:00, 00:30<br />

To Veliko Turnovo – 06:15, 06:30, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30,<br />

09:00, 09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30,<br />

14:00, 14:30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30, 18:00,<br />

19:00, 22:30, 00:30<br />

To Sandanski – 07:40, 07:55, 09;00, 10:00, 10:40,<br />

11:20, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00,<br />

17:00, 18:00<br />

To Melnik – 14:00<br />

For further information call tel. 0900 210 00<br />

January - March 2009<br />

55


56 Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />

Buses<br />

Central Bus Station (Tsentralna avtogara) F-7,<br />

bul. Maria Luiza 100, tel. 0900 21 000, fax 813 31<br />

44, www.centralnaavtogara.bg. Opened in 2004,<br />

Sofia’s sparkly glass-fronted bus terminal is everything<br />

that the train station fails to be: bright, clean, and well<br />

furnished with toilets, cafes, and nappy-changing areas so<br />

delightful that we almost wish we still wore them. Finding<br />

out where to buy a ticket can be a bit of a hassle: a main<br />

ticket counter handles most services, but there are over<br />

40 smaller sales desks serving individual bus companies<br />

- some of these offer a wide range of popular destinations<br />

in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and abroad, while others operate a once-in-ablue-moon<br />

service to Outer Mongolia and precious little<br />

else. An information desk near the entrance may direct<br />

you to the ticket desk you require, but only if the staff are<br />

in a good mood.<br />

There are plenty of companies here offering direct services<br />

to European cities: doing international trips by bus is usually<br />

faster and more comfortable than by train. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Ovcha kupel G-6, bul. Ovcha kupel 1, tel. 955 53 62.<br />

Several domestic services to destinations south of Sofia<br />

(such as Dupnitsa, Rila Monastery and Melnik) leave from<br />

Ovcha kupel bus station, 5km southwest of the centre. To<br />

get there take tram No. 5 from ul. Alabin or tram No. 19 from<br />

the Central Station. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30.<br />

Trafik-Market F-7, bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 29 79.<br />

Many international bus services (including plenty to Macedonia<br />

and Greece) leave from this parking lot immediately to<br />

the west of the Central Bus Station. There’s a timetable board<br />

detailing departures, a confusion of kiosks selling tickets for<br />

individual services, and plenty of shops and cafés. There<br />

aren’t any other facilities on offer here, but as you’re only<br />

a stone’s throw away from the train and bus stations, this<br />

shouldn’t be a hardship.<br />

Yug G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 23, tel. 872 23 45. This<br />

hard-to-find bus station hidden beneath a road bridge is the<br />

place to catch buses to the town of Samokov southeast of<br />

Sofia, which is in turn the main jumping-off point for the ski<br />

resort of Borovets. To reach the bus station take tram No.18<br />

to the Hotel Moskva and walk the remaining 400m down<br />

Dragan Tsankov. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />

Airport<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport (Letishte Sofia) G-9,<br />

bul. Christopher Columbus 1, tel. 937 22 11/937<br />

22 12, public@sofia-airport.bg, www.sofia-airport.<br />

bg. Located 10km east of the city centre, Sofia Airport<br />

consists of two terminals, the grotty Terminal 1 and the<br />

recently opened Terminal 2. Aeroflot, Alitalia, Air France,<br />

Austrian, <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Air, British Airways, Lufthansa etc. fly<br />

from Terminal 2 and the low-cost companies EasyJet, Sky<br />

Europe, Wizzair, My air, etc. fly from Terminal 1, so doublecheck<br />

which terminal you need before setting out (the<br />

terminals are not within walking distance of each other).<br />

Budget airlines<br />

Germanwings , tel. 0044 8702 521 250, www.<br />

germanwings.com. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00.<br />

Myair , tel. 0044 2073 651 597, info@myair.com,<br />

www.myair.com.<br />

Sky Europe , tel. 489 48 99, sales@skyeurope.com,<br />

www.skyeurope.com.<br />

Wizzair , tel. 960 38 88, www.wizzair.com.<br />

Both terminals have free Wi-Fi hot spot zone, limited eating<br />

and drinking facilities, souvenir shop on Terminal 1 and<br />

souvenirs, leather goods, electronics, fashion, optics and<br />

tobacco shops on Terminal 2, as well as business class<br />

lounge at the Departure hall.<br />

To get to the airport from the city centre, a properly metered<br />

taxi shouldn’t cost more than 16Lv (€8). Otherwise, head for<br />

Orlov Most (C-3) and take bus No 84 to Terminal 1, or No 284<br />

to Terminal 2. Tickets cost 1Lv, as well as each bulky piece<br />

of luggage. Q PAULGKW<br />

Airlines<br />

Aeroflot B-5, ul. Zlaten Rog 22 fl.1 office 2B, tel.<br />

962 10 01, fax 962 55 66, sofrepr@aeroflot.ru, www.<br />

aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Aerosvit A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11, fl. 2, tel. 980 78<br />

80, aerosvit@nettisat.bg, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen<br />

09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Air France B-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 9, 3d floor, tel.<br />

939 70 10, fax 939 70 35, mail.sofia@airfrance.fr,<br />

www.airfrance.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Alitalia C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 5, tel. 981 67 02/980<br />

69 30, fax 981 67 04, info.sofia@alitalia.it, www.alitalia.com.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Austrian Airlines G-7, ul. Zlaten rog 12, tel. 806 00<br />

00, fax 962 42 40, sofia.office@aua.com, www.austrianairlines.bg.<br />

Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 31 33. Open<br />

07:00-18:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

British Airways C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 49, tel. 954<br />

70 00, fax 954 80 00, retailsales.1.sofia@britishairways.com,<br />

www.britishairways.com. Sofia Airport G-9,<br />

tel. 937 31 11. Open 09:00-17:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Air D-2, ul. Ivan Vazov 2, tel. 402 04 06, fax<br />

986 24 88, tickets1@air.bg, www.air.bg. Sofia Airport<br />

G-9, tel. 937 33 70. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 -<br />

14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Czech Airlines B-3, ul. Serdika 22, tel. 981 54 08,<br />

fax 981 13 86, ticketing.sof@czechairlines.com,<br />

www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

LOT Polish Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />

27A, tel. 987 45 62, fax 980 32 93, a.petrov@lot.pl,<br />

www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Lufthansa B-3, Platinium Business Center, ul. Bacho<br />

Kiro 26-30, tel. 930 42 42, fax 981 29 11, lufthansabg@dlh.de,<br />

www.lufthansa.com. Sofia Airport G-9. tel.<br />

937 31 41. Open 05:00-20:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Malev Hungarian Airlines C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy<br />

19, tel. 981 50 91, fax 981 50 96, sofia@malev.hu,<br />

www.malev.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />

Sun.<br />

Olympic Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />

55, tel. 981 45 45, fax 980 10 50, sofia@olympicair-bg.<br />

com, www.olympicairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Turkish Airlines B-3, ul. Saborna 11A, tel. 988 35 96,<br />

fax 980 41 51, thu-sof-sat@medicom.bg, www.thy.com.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Taxis<br />

There are over 15,000 taxis in Sofia: some of these are<br />

rusty crates driven by frustrated rally drivers; the majority<br />

are roadworthy vehicles operated by more-or-less reputable<br />

companies. Legitimate taxis are coloured yellow and<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Taxi companies<br />

OK Supertrans tel. 973 21 21, for mobile 1TAXI, www.<br />

oktaxi.net.<br />

Taxi S Express tel. 9 12 80, for mobile 1280, www.<br />

taxi91280.net/.<br />

Radio CV Taxi tel. 9 12 63.<br />

Ricars Taxi tel. 9 11 14.<br />

have an oval sticker on the windscreen; they also display<br />

a square sticker indicating the rates in BGN. Charges are<br />

supposed to be metered, but some drivers will switch the<br />

meter off and demand an inflated fare if they think you’re<br />

a gullible foreigner. By law a receipt should be issued for<br />

every taxi ride you take. The charges are cheap, ranging<br />

from 0.59Lv - 0.70Lv per kilometre. The agreeing of flat-rate<br />

fares beforehand is a common practice, even in licensed<br />

cabs, especially for destinations outside the city limits. A<br />

tip of 10-15% is common practice. Most taxis hang around<br />

at the big intersections, although you can order them by<br />

phone - just don’t expect to get through to an Englishspeaker<br />

(you can always ask your hotel receptionist to do<br />

it for you). Don’t be surprised if your driver doesn’t have a<br />

detailed knowledge of the city and asks you for directions.<br />

Few drivers speak a foreign language.<br />

You’d be well advised to stick to the taxi companies recommended<br />

below in order to keep overcharging problems to a<br />

minimum, although you’re unlikely to survive without being<br />

ripped off at least once during your stay.<br />

Car rental<br />

Avis F-6, ul. Orion 84, tel. 826 11 00, fax 827 30 57,<br />

reservations@avis.bg, www.avis.bg. Sofia Airport, Terminal<br />

2 G-9, tel.945 92 24. Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 18:00.<br />

CarRent G-9, bul. Iskarsko shose 13, tel. 960 14<br />

08/0888 221 600, fax 960 14 46, carrent@promobile.bg,<br />

www.carrent.bg. Free delivery/collection<br />

24hours/day, 7days/week.<br />

Car Rental <strong>Bulgaria</strong> H-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />

62, tel. 974 36 63/0889 993 663, fax 974 18 81,<br />

office@carrental.bg, www.carrental.bg. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 18:00.<br />

Europcar B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20b, tel.<br />

981 46 26, fax 980 85 78, reservations@europcar.<br />

bg, www.europcar.com. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9,<br />

Terminal 1, tel. 945 92 83. Terminal 2, tel. 945 92 66. Free<br />

delivery / collection, 7 days / week. Hot line 0884 816 666.<br />

Open 09:00-21:00.<br />

Hertz G-7, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 53, Seat showroom,<br />

tel. 439 12 22, fax 439 12 25, office@hertz.bg, www.<br />

hertz.bg. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 945 92 17. Open<br />

08:30 - 23:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Hire My Car G-6, , tel. 955 92 55/0888 55 92 55, fax<br />

955 61 22, office@hiremycarbg.com, www.hiremycarbg.<br />

com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Miama rent-a-car G-6, ul. Aleksandar Pushkin 38, tel.<br />

0889 602 060/0888 778 866, info@miama-rentacar.<br />

com, www.miama-rentacar.com. Luxury rent-a-car service.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />

Tany 97 G-8, ul. Anton Chehov 69, tel. 970 85 00,<br />

reservations@tany97.com, www.tany97.com. Sofia<br />

Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 0889 998 998. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Thrifty Car Rental F-8, ul. Kozlodui 4, tel. 931 60<br />

00/0887 503 030, fax 931 60 09, reservations@thrifty.<br />

bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Top rent-a-car C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 41, tel. 981 53<br />

81/0888 333 548, office@toprentacar.bg, www.<br />

toprentacarbg.com.<br />

Travel agencies<br />

Alma Tour B-3, ul. Serdika 12, tel. 805 68 00/981 31<br />

38, outgoing@almatour.net, incoming@almatour.net,<br />

airtickets@almatour.net, www.almatournet. QOpen<br />

09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.<br />

Jamadvice Travel Ltd. G-8, ul. Asen Zlatarov 10,<br />

tel. 943 30 11, fax 946 12 61, mark@btibulgaria.com.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational airline tickets and business travel.<br />

Lyuba Tours D-4, ul. Tsanko Tserkovski 22, tel. 963<br />

33 43, fax 963 31 42, info@lyubatours.com, www.lyubatours.com.<br />

Small-group weekend trips within <strong>Bulgaria</strong> to<br />

places of historical, cultural and ethnographic interest.<br />

Polytours Tsar Asen 61, tel. 981 12 22, fax 980 41<br />

25, tours@polytours.com, www.polytours.com. QOpen<br />

9:00 - 18.30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

Stars travel C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 57, tel. 811 47 81,<br />

fax 811 47 82, office@starstravel.info, www.starstravel.<br />

info. <strong>In</strong>ternational airline tickets and business travel<br />

Usit Colours C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 35, tel. 981 19 00,<br />

fax 981 99 91, sofia@usitcolours.bg, www.usitcolours.<br />

bg. Specialists in youth and student travel.<br />

Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />

20V, tel. 980 51 02, fax 980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.<br />

com, www.zigzagbg.com. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n independent travel<br />

specialists organizing hiking trips, B&B reservations,<br />

car rental, and tailor-made excursions into the great<br />

outdoors.<br />

ZIP Travel C-1, bul. Praga 8, tel. 917 59 30, fax 917 59<br />

49, sofia@ziptravel.bg, www.ziptravel.bg. <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />

company specialised in student travel and training, exchange<br />

programs and low price air tickets.<br />

US$1 - 1.40Lv; €1 – 1.95Lv; £1 –<br />

2.08Lv (January 2009)<br />

January - March 2009<br />

57


58 sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />

Sofia’s smartest shops - including any number of international<br />

designer outlets - jostle for attention along either<br />

side of bul. Vitosha, the city’s main north-south pedestrian,<br />

trams and police only, shopping street. Mainstream<br />

clothes, domestic and electrical stores can also be found<br />

in abundance along consumer-clogged streets like ul. Graf<br />

Ignatiev and ul. Pirotska.<br />

24hr food and drink<br />

Familia C-3, bul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 71 05. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Fantastiko B-5, bul. Madrid 8, tel. 988 65 90, www.<br />

ff-bg.net. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Magazin 345 B-3, ul. Veslets 4, tel. 988 98 75. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00. PA<br />

Antiques & Collectables<br />

Antikvariat Zlatorog A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 983<br />

35 08, vanili_@abv.bg, www.antikvariatzlatorog.com.<br />

Offering everything from chintzy crockery to dressing-tables,<br />

wardrobes and hat-stands, Zlatorog is a must-visit for retrofurnishing<br />

freaks. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Letostrui C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 9, tel. 988 18 81. Furniture,<br />

porcelain and other oddments. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Strash A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 41A, tel. 983 93 08. If<br />

you collect stamps, old postcards or vintage cartoons, this<br />

is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Viga Antiques B-3, ul. Alabin 50, tel. 980 54 07. Antiques<br />

from folk costumes to clocks. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30,<br />

Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Books<br />

Booktrading C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 50, tel. 981 04<br />

48. One of the best of the high-street bookstores, with a<br />

good selection of English, French and German paperbacks,<br />

art books, and international guidebooks (Eyewitness,<br />

Rough Guides and more). QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sun<br />

10:00 - 20:00.<br />

Helikon C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 68, tel. 987 19 19,<br />

bigbookshop@helikon.bg, www.helikon.bg. Browserfriendly<br />

bookstore on three floors with a smattering of<br />

English-language titles, international guide books including<br />

Rough Guides, and a small cafe where readings are sometimes<br />

held. The other bookshop from the Helikon chain is<br />

on bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17 B-2, tel. 988 40 29, email<br />

- officeeubcc@helikon.bg QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun<br />

10:00 - 20:30. A<br />

<strong>In</strong>terkniga B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 944 41 41/0899 973<br />

966. <strong>In</strong>side the headquarters of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Artists’ Union,<br />

this bookshop has lots of full-colour art books, and some<br />

English-language paperbacks. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun.<br />

Ploshtad Slaveykov<br />

Ploshtad Slaveykov C-3, . This long rectangular<br />

square is home to a hugely enjoyable book market. If your<br />

language skills aren’t quite up to the latest in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

fiction then you can at least browse your way through<br />

lavishly illustrated books on <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culture, or pick up<br />

the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-English phrasebook you always pined for.<br />

QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.<br />

Ploshtad Aleksandur Nevski<br />

Ploshtad Aleksandar Nevski B-4, . Open-air brica-brac<br />

market offering communist-era medals, stamps,<br />

postcards, junk from granny’s attic, and some genuine antiques.<br />

Lace-makers and embroiderers sell their wares at<br />

the eastern end of the strip on the corner of pl. Aleksandur<br />

Nevski and ul. 11 August. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Knigomania B-1, Mall of Sofia, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />

101, tel. 980 52 14, office@knigomania.bg,<br />

www.knigomania.bg. Bright modern browser-friendly bookstore<br />

with a good selection of English-language paperbacks,<br />

international guidebooks, and maps. Also sells CDs and DVDs.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />

Nissim Books C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 59, tel. 981 19<br />

12, boyana@nissimbooks.com, www.nissimbooks.com.<br />

Charming cubby-hole with a few English titles. All the staff are<br />

book enthusiasts and they will gladly try and seek out rare or<br />

unsual tomes that can’t be found elsewhere. QOpen 11:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A<br />

Orange C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 980 82 07, orangegraf@pe-bg.com.<br />

Multi-media store with four floors of stationery,<br />

toys, books, CDs and games. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri<br />

09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PA<br />

Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />

20, tel. 980 51 02, info@zigzagbg.com, www.<br />

zigzagbg.com. This independent travel agent has a<br />

better selection of maps of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> than any other shop<br />

we’ve encountered in the capital. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

Clothes & Accessories<br />

525 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 8, tel. 980 64 10. Snazzy,<br />

locally-made clothes for the slightly off-the-wall trendsetter,<br />

plus lots of eccentric accoutrements. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />

Artishock B-2, ul. Ivaylo 28, tel. 0898 826 161/0888<br />

091 661, office@artishock.bg, www.artishock.bg. Personal<br />

and home accessories. Online and offline shop.<br />

Atelie Mirella Bratova C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 4, tel.<br />

980 71 56, www.mirellabratova.com. Stylish bohemian<br />

fashion creations from the inspired Ms Bratova, and auraemanating<br />

ethno-pendants by Daniela Andreevska. QOpen<br />

10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Muhomorka C-3, ul. Ivan Shishman 45, tel. 958 29 85,<br />

www.muhomorka.biz. Aladdin’s cave of colourful clothes<br />

and eastern-influenced textiles. They also sell large-format<br />

cigarette papers but we don’t understand what these might<br />

be used for. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Shopping smarts<br />

Open Отворено Otvoreno<br />

Closed Затворено Zatvoreno<br />

Push Бутни Butni<br />

Pull Дръпни Drapni<br />

Monday Понеделник Ponedelnik<br />

Tuesday Вторник Vtornik<br />

Wednesday Сряда Sryada<br />

Thursday Четвъртък Chetvurtak<br />

Friday Петък Petuk<br />

Saturday Събота Subota<br />

Sunday Неделя Nedelya<br />

Punto & Kanela C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 52, tel. 0888<br />

413 749, mokanova@abv.bg. Small but chic collection of<br />

domestic designer woolens, and some imaginative necklaces<br />

and bracelets. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />

Closed Sun. A<br />

The Earth Collection C-4, ul. Ivan Shisman 20, tel.<br />

0885 807 764. For the first time in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, the well known<br />

brand of environmentally friendly clothes made of 100%<br />

refined natural fabrics mixing raw silk, cotton, ramie, hemp<br />

and linen. Lightweight, breathable, long lasting and elegant<br />

clothes. Garments with versability, wearability and comfort.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Cosmetics<br />

Boutique Estee Lauder-Clinique-Aramis C-2, bul.<br />

Vitosha 67, tel. 987 24 52, elboutique@esteelauderbg.<br />

com, www.esteelauder.com. Top-of-the-range fragrances.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />

18:00. A<br />

Casyopea C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 19, tel. 852 64 78,<br />

office@casyopea.com, www.casyopea.com. Natural<br />

cosmetics store with enough varieties of soap to keep you<br />

smelling sweet for several lifetimes. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />

Closed Sun. A<br />

Culinary shops<br />

Fontanite A-2, ul. Vranaya 34-36, tel. 931 19 65. Delicatessen<br />

store, importing tasty goods directly from Italy. They<br />

prepare tiramisu on the spot.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />

Flowers<br />

Bouquet C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 988 51 97. Phone<br />

orders taken on tel. 098 14 14. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />

Feite C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 18 10. Also at ul.<br />

Graf Ignatiev 41. Elegant gift packaging.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00<br />

- 21:00.<br />

Tsvetna magia B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris I 99, tel. 980 47 83,<br />

info@flowersmagic.com, www.flowersmagic.com.<br />

Gifts & Souvenirs<br />

Balgarski dyukyan A-2, ul. Pirotska 11. Enough folksy<br />

crockery, embroidered tablecloths, and Turkish-style copper<br />

coffee pots to decorate that designer Balkan peasant kitchen<br />

of your dreams. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Carpet House/Tchu kilim A-4, ul. Rakovski 38, tel.<br />

983 66 09, sales@tchukilim.com, www.tchukilim.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />

com. Looks like a regular domestic carpet shop from the<br />

outside but is also Sofia’s leading outlet for authentic allwool<br />

kilims made in the weaving town of Chiprovtsi. With a<br />

selection of small rugs in stock, they also take orders for<br />

kilims if you have a couple of months to spare. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Dar za gorene C-3, bul. Fridtyof Nansen 19, tel.<br />

0888 647 516, nuna76@mail.bg, www.darzagorene.<br />

com. <strong>In</strong> the little candle shop of Nuna and Duraid you<br />

can find their 100% hand made candles, decorated with<br />

symbols, by which they are trying to send different messages<br />

to the world: save the nature, discover the beauty<br />

of the ancient <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n art motives, feel the harmony<br />

and love - all of these messages are the main inspirers of<br />

their work and life.<br />

Ethnographic Museum Shop B-3, pl. Aleksandar<br />

Batenberg 1. Folk costumes, traditional crockery, ethno<br />

jewellery and music CDs. It’s one of the best places to buy<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n kilims - at 160Lv per square metre they’re probably<br />

more expensive here than in their villages of origin, but<br />

authentic and affordable handiwork nevertheless. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Galeria Gaya C-5, ul. Krakra 19, tel. 0884 177 005,<br />

syana@gayabg.com, www.gayabg.com. Handmade<br />

greetings cards and wonderfully outlandish ceramics make<br />

this a great place to seek out gifts for the arty individualist<br />

in your life. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Kikka B-5, ul. Shipka 28, tel. 0888 888 727. Contemporary<br />

ceramics from earnest clay-pummelling types. Affordable<br />

domestic items as well as more upmarket sculptural<br />

pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />

Sun. A<br />

Punto C-4, ul. Yuri Venelin 12, tel. 986 39 31, titi.<br />

ovanesova@abv.bg. Classy designer jewellery made by local<br />

artists, alongside a big range of affordable brooches, beads,<br />

earrings and other fashion trinkets. Also curious ceramics,<br />

small-format oil paintings and reproduction icons. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 19:30. Closed Sun. A<br />

Traditzia<br />

Traditzia C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 36, tel. 981 77 65,<br />

office@traditzia.bg, www.traditzia.bg. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />

quality and variety, Traditzia is about as good as Sofia’s<br />

gift shops get. Founded seven years ago by volunteers<br />

from Sofia’s international community, it is a fair-trade<br />

souvenir and crafts store which stocks a diverse range<br />

of textiles, ceramics, hand-made greetings cards, glassware<br />

and jewellery. Most importantly, purchases made<br />

here contribute to good causes: many of the items on<br />

display are made by children in social institutions, people<br />

with disabilities and artisans in remote villages. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PA<br />

January - March 2009<br />

59


60 sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />

Sports equipment<br />

Makalu sport B-1, ul. Vladayska 23, tel. 0878 988<br />

727, www.makalusport.com. Specialized climbing and<br />

mountaineering equipment. <strong>In</strong>formation about trekking,<br />

hikking, climbing and caving in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Stenata B-2, ul. Bratya Miladinovi 5, tel. 980 54 91,<br />

stenata@omega.bg, www.stenata.com. Everything<br />

you might need for hiking, camping, climbing and caving.<br />

Friendly advice from experts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Tera Bulgara C-5, ul. San Stefano 22A, tel. 846 88 06.<br />

Craft items, textiles and rugs. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat<br />

10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Umbopo C-3, ul. Khan Krum 20, tel. 0887 201 673. A<br />

tiny, little shop for hand-made jewellery, candles, little artistic<br />

gifts, ceramic beads and many beautiful small trinkets. This<br />

is a place where you can take your time and use your creativity<br />

and imagination for creating your own jewellery. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.<br />

Hypermarkets<br />

HIT H-8, Mladost-2 ul. Aleksander Malinov 75, tel. 817<br />

51 00, hit-info@hit-hypermarket.bg, www.hit-hypermarket.bg.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />

Kaufland H-8, zh-k Mladost -3 ul. Philip Avramov<br />

3, tel. 0800 12 220, customer.services@kaufland.<br />

bg, www.kaufland.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />

08:00 - 21:00.<br />

Metro cash & carry G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />

7, tel. 0700 100 71, info@Metro.bg, www.metro.bg.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />

Jewellery<br />

Avi Center B-2, ul. Vitosha 18B, tel. 930 70 70, office@<br />

avi-center.com, www.avi-center.com. High quality gold,<br />

diamonds and platinum jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />

El Grado C-3, bul. Vassil Levski 61, tel. 986 24 80. Gold,<br />

silver, precious stones, orders of unique examples, repairs.<br />

QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Photography<br />

Kodak Express C-3, pl. Slaveykov 11, tel. 987 00 74.<br />

Develops your holiday snaps in a jiffy as well as selling film<br />

of all kinds and a range of professional kit. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />

Music shops<br />

0.4.3. (O.Ch.Z.) B-2, ul.Tri Ushi 3, tel. 981 72 27,<br />

www.Z043.org. Everything about this hell-hole screams<br />

of bloody metal! From the millions of skulls on the shelves<br />

and the thundering sounds, ravaging the stereo, to the<br />

metalheads, round the corner, who will always test your<br />

“metal-ness”, before even talking to you. CD-s, t-shirts,<br />

accessoires and rock memorabilia…and that Motorhead<br />

shirt you’ve always wanted. They just have it all! QOpen<br />

11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

SMF Music Hunter C-2, ul. William Gladstone 30A,<br />

tel. 981 60 76, www.smf-bg.com. The most extensive<br />

collection of CD-s, DVD-s and T-shirts with unreadable<br />

band logos. Almost every important album in rock, punk<br />

metal and enough bloody and satanic CD-sleeves to give<br />

you nightmares for the rest of your life… QOpen 10:30 -<br />

20:00, Sat 10.30 - 19.30. Closed Sun. A<br />

Vision A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 55, tel. 983 55 09,<br />

visiomessige@abv.bg. One of the oldest shops for<br />

music t-shirt and accessories in Sofia. They offer spraycans<br />

for graffiti and can dress you up as a street maniac<br />

from head to toe. There is also a tattoo parlour in the<br />

basement. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11.30 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Markets<br />

Graf Ignatiev C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev. More bananas<br />

than you can shake a cucumber at, and vice-versa.<br />

QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.<br />

Rimska stena D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski. One of<br />

the liveliest food markets, worth visiting for the piece of<br />

preserved Byzantine fortress wall which sticks up amidst<br />

the stalls. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />

Sitnyakovo bul. Shipchenski prohod. Fresh produce<br />

market popular with the expat community - you might well<br />

find the kind of exotic fruit and vegetables that doesn’t<br />

turn up elsewhere. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />

Zhenski pazar A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Vast<br />

open-air bazaar selling flowers, foodstuffs, cheap<br />

clothes, broomsticks, spare parts to machines you<br />

never even knew existed, and kitchen sinks. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 19:00.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Shopping centres<br />

City Center Sofia E-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 865<br />

72 85, pr@ccs-mall.com, www.ccs-mall.com. Glossy<br />

consumerist temple comprising 3 storeys of shops (including<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s first Marks & Spencer), a cinema, and<br />

a floor of food options including sushi bar and a brace of<br />

Italian restaurants. The ground-floor newspaper kiosk is<br />

a good place to pick up English-language press. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 22:00. PTALK<br />

Mall of Sofia B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101.<br />

Sofia’s newest shopping mecca is an enormous retail,<br />

business and entertainment centre boasting over 130<br />

shops (many selling international brand-names), fancy<br />

cafés and restaurants, and a 12-screen multiplex cinema.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAK<br />

TZUM B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 2, tel. 926 07 00, tzum@<br />

tzum.bg, www.tzum.bg. Three floors of expensive<br />

fashion, accessories and cosmetics, and a first-floor<br />

café where young ladies like to sit and pout after a tiring<br />

day looking at clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />

11:00 - 20:00. PK<br />

Supermarkets<br />

Billa G-7, ul. Sofiyski Geroy 4, tel. 951 52 66,<br />

billa@bg.billa.co.at, www.connect.bg/directory/<br />

BGSF000111/. Aisle upon aisle of international food and<br />

drink. Pile your trolley high. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 21:00.<br />

Piccadilly E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel.<br />

819 45 67, fax 819 45 55, www.piccadilly.bg. Pretty<br />

much everything you need for your weekly shop is in here<br />

somewhere. Big deli counter, freshly baked bread, and aisle<br />

upon aisle of alcohol. Another at B-1, Mall of Sofia. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 22:00.<br />

Tobacco & Drinks<br />

100 grama sladki C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 18A, tel. 980<br />

40 62, www.100gr-sladki.com. The name of this treasure<br />

trove of a shop literally means ‘one hundred grams of sweets’,<br />

although you’ll probably be drawn into buying more once you<br />

catch sight of the riches behind the counter. Custards, tarts,<br />

cakes and hand-made chocolates will appeal to the sweettoothed,<br />

while mini-quiches are perfect for a more traditional<br />

lunch-snack. There’s a small sit-down area for those who want<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />

to linger over a cup of tea or coffee, but do be warned that the<br />

longer you spend hanging around here, the more things you<br />

will be tempted into buying. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />

Cheers B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 986 18 56,<br />

office@cheersgroup.bg, www.cheers.bg. Finest tobacco<br />

and cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, brand alcohol,<br />

selected wines. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />

A<br />

Loza C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 19, tel. 980 28 00. Great<br />

selection of fine <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wines and brandies. QOpen<br />

08:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. PA<br />

Magazin za vreme i chay B-2, ul. Knyaz BorisI 65,<br />

tel. 0887 968 748, vremechai@gmail.com. Shelf upon<br />

shelf of speciality teas from all over the world, including<br />

seductive long-leaved green varieties from China, and plenty<br />

of traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n herbal infusions. There’s also a small<br />

selection of oriental spices including ginger, cardamom, and<br />

a few things we couldn’t quite identify -judging by the aroma<br />

it would be 100% safe to throw them in a curry. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.<br />

Poeschl Tabak B-2, ul. Solunska 23, tel. 981 18 49. Fine<br />

tobacco for pipes and cigarettes, cigars, snuff, accessories<br />

for smokers. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

61


62 HealtH & lIfestyle<br />

24hr pharmacies<br />

Adonis G-7, jk Hipodruma, bl. 121, ul. Urvich<br />

1, tel. 0800 16626/859 21 82, fax 958 14 70,<br />

hipodruma@adonis.bg, www.adonis.bg. Also in jk<br />

Lozenets, ul. Zlatovrah 4, Elemag, tel. 9620569, 0885<br />

832 680. Q A<br />

Ana D-1, bul. Vitosha 95, tel. 953 41 57.<br />

Aronia 2001 G-7, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 6, tel.<br />

953 13 08.<br />

Saldzhi C-2, bul. Vitosha 35, tel. 980 58 96. Q<br />

A<br />

Babysitting and Homecare<br />

Detegledachki , tel. 0888 816 309, info@detegledachki.com,<br />

www.detegledachki.com. Recruitment<br />

agency for babysitters and homecare services.<br />

Mery Poppins D-4, ul. Milin Kamak 40, tel. 865 48<br />

10/0878 621 936, info@marypoppins-bg.com, www.<br />

marypoppins-bg.com. Recruitment agency for babysitters<br />

and homecare services. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Tina V (G-8) ul. Nikolay Gogol 1, tel. 846 54 85/0889<br />

322 529, info@tina-v.com, www.tina-v.com. Babysitting<br />

and homecare recruitment agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

United Phili C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 28, tel. 0878 808<br />

568, united_ph@abv.bg. Babysitting and homecare recruitment<br />

agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Beauty salons<br />

Charmant C-1, ul. Sveti Ivan Rilski 15, et. 2, tel. 952<br />

34 30, charmant@bhc.orbitel.bg, www.charmant.bg.<br />

Thalasso treatments, massage, manicure and more. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 20:00. A<br />

Picasso B-3, ul. Aleksandur Batenberg 10, tel. 989<br />

66 99/989 06 68, picasso2@abv.bg, www.cosmelas.<br />

com. Studio for laser cosmetics. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. W<br />

Visages B-2, bul. Vitosha 50, tel. 988 42 51. Cosmetic<br />

services, massage, manicure, tatoos and more. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />

Yves Rocher Beauty Center C-2, bul. Vitosha 63, tel.<br />

986 31 64/987 99 10. Various cosmetic services with<br />

quality products. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Mon, Sat 10:00 -<br />

19:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n language courses<br />

Atlas-S B-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 1, et. 3, tel. 987 20<br />

08/980 43 92, fax 980 55 79, atlas_lc@abv.bg, www.<br />

atlas-s.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Sofia University Department of Language Learning<br />

G-8, ul. Kosta Lulchev 27, tel. 871 00 69/872 00<br />

69, fax 870 53 28, office@deo.uni-sofia.bg, www.deo.<br />

uni-sofia.bg. The only certified centre for testing of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />

as foreign language. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.<br />

York Learning Centre D-3, ul. Rakovska 187 A, et.<br />

3, tel. 986 21 45/0898 457 433, info@york-bg.com,<br />

www.york-bg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun<br />

08:00 - 14:00.<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Catering<br />

Lora Catering B-5, bul. Todor Aleksandrov, bl.<br />

75, ent.D, fl.1, opposite Arena cinema Liulin, tel.<br />

9201301/0888 800 548, lora2002@gmail.com,<br />

www.loracatering.com. Professional catering services<br />

for all occasions.<br />

Luxe B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02 03/0888 241 164,<br />

office@luxebg.com, www.luxebg.com. Catering and event<br />

planning. Q A<br />

MDM Catering F-7, ul. Strandzha 132, tel. 833 40<br />

83/0898 50 43 07, info@mdmcatering.com, www.<br />

mdmcatering.com. Business and corporate catering.<br />

Cleaning services<br />

Borivan Ltd. F-7, jk Obelia, bl. 118, vh. V, tel. 931 16<br />

20/0886 520 055, fax 934 66 90, service@borivan.com,<br />

www.borivan.com. Machine cleaning and washing, grinding<br />

and polishing. Contact telephone for weekends and holidays<br />

0885 405 610. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Vasilka Cleaning Agency G-7, ul.Kamen Andreev<br />

24, fl.4 ,office 404, tel. 952 34 34/0889 245 446, fax<br />

952 05 56, vasilkaltd@abv.bg, www.vasilka-bg.com.<br />

Complete cleaning services. Abonament cleaning services.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Dentists<br />

Dental Clinic B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 5, tel. 987 84 24/987<br />

84 23. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Juniordent C-4, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 988 31<br />

75/935 59 322, fax 988 19 92, judent@mbox.bol.bg,<br />

www.juniordent.com. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun. A<br />

Medstom Clinic B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 26A, tel.<br />

981 00 00/988 44 04, fax 988 31 80, medstom@abv.<br />

bg, www.medstom.com. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />

Sun. A<br />

Nedyalkov Dental Clinics D-3, ul. Lyuben Karavelov<br />

90, tel. 963 15 05, info@klinikinedialkov.com, http://<br />

klinikinedialkov.com. The have 3 more clinics on ul. Rakovska<br />

165, tel. 988 54 44, on ul. Rakovska 81, tel. 983<br />

36 66 and on bul. Dondukov 105, tel. 944 82 62. QOpen<br />

08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:00.<br />

T. Kanchev A-5, bul. Gen. Danail Nikolaev 10, tel./fax<br />

843 56 58. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Dry cleaners<br />

Mac Clean B-3, ul. Gurko 10, tel. 986 55 51/986 49<br />

74. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13.00. Closed<br />

Sun.<br />

Roever C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 37, tel. 980 61 07. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Hairdressers<br />

Kalo Hair Studio B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 987 01 54,<br />

kalohair@mail.bg, www.kalohairstudio.com. Also on ul.<br />

Damian Gruev 15 and bul. Vasil Levski 82 A. QOpen 09:30<br />

- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Stylist Kapanov C-2, bul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. 951 63<br />

88, fax 953 30 12, botev@kapanov.net, www.kapanov.<br />

net. One of the best in the business. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Hospitals<br />

Isul A-5, ul. Byalo More 8, tel. 943 21 70/943 21 32.<br />

Pirogov (Multiprofile Hospital of Active Treatment<br />

and Emergency Medicine) G-7, bul. Totleben 21, tel.<br />

915 44 11. Emergency tel. 150. Sofia’s main hospital for<br />

emergencies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Tokuda G-7, bul. N. Vaptsarov 51B, tel. 403 40 00,<br />

fax 403 40 10, info@tokudabolnica.bg, www.tokudabolnica.bg.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational schools<br />

American College of Sofia H-8, Floyd Black Lane,<br />

Mladost-2, tel. 434 10 08/434 10 09, fax 974 31 29,<br />

acs@acs.bg, www.acs.bg. Private secondary school<br />

founded in 1860 - the oldest American educational institution<br />

outside the USA.<br />

American English Academy G-9, Druzhba 2, 150<br />

School - Deliyska Vodenitsa, fl. 4, tel. 973 12 22/973 88<br />

81, fax 973 55 64, aeaoffice@gmail.com, www.aea-bg.<br />

com. Classes from kindergarten to grade 12.<br />

Anglo-American School of Sofia G-7, ul. Kozyak 16,<br />

tel. 923 88 10, fax 923 88 59, aasdirector@infotel.<br />

bg, www.aas-sofia.org. School founded in 1967 by the<br />

American and British embassies.<br />

Deutsche Schule Erich Kaestner F-6, Lyulin-VI, tel.<br />

824 48 59/826 72 80, fax 925 08 38, info@eks-bg.eu,<br />

www.kestnerschool.com. German language school - kindergarten,<br />

primary and secondary school.<br />

First English Language School B-5, bul. Knyaz<br />

Dondukov 60, tel. 944 21 81/944 83 89, aeg1@abv.<br />

bg, www.fels-sofia.org. Public secondary school founded<br />

in 1958.<br />

The French school E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 36, tel. 963<br />

21 19/963 29 64, fax 866 58 70, proviseur@vhugo.<br />

org, www.vhugo.org.<br />

Kindergartens<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational children`s creativity center H-7,<br />

Dragalevtsi, ul. Vaklinets 36, tel. 967 31 12/0888 940<br />

763, iccf@geobiz.net, www.iccf-bg.com. Accepts children<br />

between the ages of 2-6.<br />

QOpen 08:30 - 17:30.<br />

Uwekind G-6, Boyana, ul. 612 4, tel. 857 51 00/857<br />

20 00, info@uwekind.com, www.uwekind.com. A privately<br />

run kindergarten and school with a half day German<br />

programme.<br />

Laboratories<br />

Biocheck A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 31, tel. 911 83/983<br />

33 93, www.biocheck-bg.com. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Bodimed B-2, ul. Pozitano 24, tel. 986 38 64/986<br />

66 76, www.bodimed.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Libraries<br />

British Council B-5, ul. Krakra 7, tel. 942 43 44/0887<br />

424 344, fax 942 42 22, bc.sofia@britishcouncil.bg,<br />

www.britishcouncil.org/bulgaria.htm. Up-to-date newspapers,<br />

magazines, and lots of lovely books. QOpen 10:00 -<br />

19:30, Wed 10:00 - 13:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

French Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 2,<br />

tel. 937 79 22, fax 980 94 98, ccc-cours@institutfrance.<br />

bg, www.institutfrance.bg. Bookstore and library. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

HealtH & lIfestyle<br />

Tattoo & Piercing<br />

Getting a tattoo can be a life-changing experience,<br />

or just another cartoon on you to fight boredom with.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Sofia, tattooing is much cheaper and as good as<br />

anywhere in the world. Bring your bravery, positive<br />

attitude and ideas with you and leave everything to the<br />

tattoo artist. Tattoo people are an underground breed<br />

of their own and sometimes have strange ethics and<br />

code of life, so treat them with respect. Ignore their<br />

prison-style looks and remember that they are professionals<br />

in the ancient rituals of desecrating the flesh.<br />

They can also make enough piercings on your body, to<br />

trigger any airport metal detector!<br />

Artstudio “Nuance”- tattoo, piercing and airbrush<br />

A-1, ul. Opalchenska 78, tel. 831 58 85/0889<br />

398 940, www.nuanceartstudio.com. Placed in the<br />

calmer corners of the centre, this is not the typical hellhole<br />

of a studio, but an arty, colourful place. Still an occasional<br />

demon can always come out of the needle!<br />

Kravay Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, bul.<br />

Patriarh Evtimiy 43, tel. 0885 757 819. Just across<br />

the ugliest monument in Sofia, there is a little window and<br />

a bell button. Ring on it and get some true blue ink!<br />

Monica Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, ul.<br />

Graf Ignatiev 34B, tel. 0897 310 677/0888 123<br />

424. A spacious studio where extreme people hang out<br />

and get their inks done. Drink some beers, play some<br />

darts and table soccer and get some beauty under your<br />

skin! Just don’t say the name of the soccer team C.S.K.A.<br />

and everything will be O.K.<br />

Vision Tattoo & Bodypiercing Studio A-3, bul.<br />

Maria Luiza 55, tel. 0889 813 120. <strong>In</strong> the dark alley<br />

hides a basement, where the magic of color happens!<br />

Goethe-<strong>In</strong>stitut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939<br />

01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www.<br />

goethe.de/ins/bg/sof/bgindex.htm. German language<br />

library. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu<br />

14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

<strong>In</strong>stituto Cervantes Sofia B-3, ul. Saborna 1, tel.<br />

810 45 00, fax 980 26 28, censof@cervantes.es, sofia.<br />

cervantes.es. Spanish cultural centre. QOpen , Mon 10:00<br />

- 13:00, 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sun.<br />

Opticians<br />

Cari Optics C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel. 989 21 26/989<br />

21 71, fax 981 84 14, caristyle@mail.orbital.bg, www.<br />

carioptics.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Eurooptic D-2, bul. Vitosha 92, tel. 953 11 32, eurooptic2@mbox.contact.bg,<br />

www.eurooptik.com. Also shops<br />

on ul. Sveta Sofia 8, tel. 987 24 92, ul. Tsar Ivan Shishman 19,<br />

tel. 987 28 49, bul. Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, tel. 987 79 79<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Fox B-4, bul. Dondukov 26 A, tel. 986 40 32, office@<br />

foxoptics.com, www.foxoptics.com. Other shops on bul.<br />

Hristo Botev 73, tel. 981 98 93, ul. Serdika 18, tel. 980 02 55,<br />

jk Liulyn, bl. 443, tel. 8258673, jk Mladost 4, Business Park<br />

Sofia, Building 10, tel. 489 94 88. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Grand Optics C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 48, tel. 987 23 64,<br />

office@joyoptics.com, www.grandoptics-bg.com. Shops<br />

also on bul. Vitosha 74 and 23, bul. Maria Luisa 41, bul. Kosta<br />

Lulchev 52, Sky City, bul. Alexander Malinov 77, Princess Outlet<br />

Center, Sofia Airport, Terminal 2. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />

January - March 2009<br />

63


64 HealtH & lIfestyle<br />

Opticlasa C-2, bul. Vitosha 40, tel. 988 34 86, opticlasa@trading.bg,<br />

www.opticlasa.com. ul. Alabin 31, bul.<br />

Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, ul. Solunska 14 and 37, Mladost<br />

4, Business Park Sofia, building 8 QOpen 10:30 - 19:30,<br />

Sat 10:30 - 18:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. A<br />

Party organisers<br />

Biliana Fireworks F-8, jk Hadji Dimitar, ul. Vasil Petleshkov<br />

1, tel. 986 33 00/0888 906 179, bil_fire@abv.bg,<br />

www.bil-firework.com. Pyrotechnic performances.<br />

Magicland C-1, ul. Knyaz Boris I 7, tel. 952 34 94/0886<br />

660 100, fax 952 33 95, land@magicland.bg, www.<br />

magicland.bg. Carnival costumes and accessories. Organizing<br />

of parties and events. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Party House B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 30, tel. 981 62 50,<br />

office@partyhouse-bg.com, www.partyhouse-bg.com.<br />

Corporate events, private parties, children’s shows and<br />

costume rental.<br />

Party Service G-7, ul. Bogatitsa 36, tel. 964 15<br />

00/964 15 01, fax 963 56 25, info@partyservice-bg.<br />

com, www.partyservice-bg.com. Event planners and<br />

caterers. Q A<br />

Red Devil F-7, bul. Lomsko Shose 228 A, tel. 0700<br />

14 700/0898 68 68 01, office@reddevilcatering.com,<br />

www.reddevilcatering.com. Complete organisation of all<br />

kinds of parties.<br />

Sofia Classic Catering G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />

139, tel. 875 21 36/0886 499 277, fax 828 24 99,<br />

office@sofiacatering.com, www.sofiacatering.com.<br />

Catering for your office and family party.<br />

Private medical clinics<br />

Gurgulyat Clinic C-3, ul. Rakovski 148 B, tel. 912<br />

88/981 03 31, fax 981 02 91, gurgulyat@yahoo.com,<br />

www.gurgulyat.com. bul. Gen. Totleben 21, tel. 952 05 00,<br />

ul. 20 April 30, tel. 954 98 85. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Medical Center Dr. I.S.Greenberg H-8, Mladost-3<br />

(in the building of XXV Polyclinic), tel. 974 48 16, fax<br />

971 29 95, dccgreenberg@tea.bg. QOpen 00:00 -<br />

24:00.<br />

St. Pantaleymon H-8, zh-k Mladost 3 bul. Aleksandur<br />

Malinov 63, tel. 974 10 00, fax 974 44 50, info@sphospital.com,<br />

www.sphospital.com. Specializing Surgery<br />

Hospital. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Thorax Clinics B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 57,<br />

tel. 912 85, mail@thorax.bg, www.thorax.bg. Thorax 2<br />

is on ul. Fridtjof Nansen 21, tel. 980 78 86. QOpen 00:00<br />

- 24:00. A<br />

Vita Medical Center G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 9, tel. 960 49<br />

50/943 43 98, fax 944 13 43, vita@vita.bg, www.vita.<br />

bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Religious services<br />

Anglican church B-5, ul. Oborishte 5, the Catholic<br />

Chapel, tel. 872 21 30, anglicanbg@gmail.com, http://<br />

www.churchoftheresurrection.eu/sofia.htm. Holy<br />

Communion is celebrated every third Sunday of the month<br />

at 9:30 am.<br />

Baha’i Centre G-7, ul. Boyanski Vazhod 8 A, tel. 955 58<br />

33/0878 986 997, nsa@bahai.bg, www.bahai.bg.<br />

Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,<br />

bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 60 01, www.genmufti.org.<br />

Prayer five times a day.<br />

Baptist Church G-8, <strong>In</strong>terpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36,<br />

tel. 971 17 50, raychs@juno.com, www.ibcsworld.org.<br />

Sunday teaching sessions at 10 a.m. and worship services<br />

at 11 a.m. in English.<br />

Hram Uspenie Bogorodichno ul. Lyulin planina 5, tel.<br />

953 04 06/952 29 59, proykov@gmail.com, www.kaebg.org.<br />

Daily liturgy at 18:30, Sun 8:00 and 10:00.<br />

Chabad <strong>Bulgaria</strong> (Jewish Community Center)<br />

B-4, ul. Stara Planina 38, tel. 944 33 80, fax 944 35<br />

38, office@chabad-bulgaria.org, www.chabad-bulgaria.<br />

org. Prayer every day at 8 am, except for Friday when the<br />

service is held in the Synagogue. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983 12<br />

73, fax 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@mail.orbitel.bg,<br />

www.sofiasynagogue.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat<br />

09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

St Joseph’s Catholic Church C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris<br />

146, tel. 811 46 56. Daily liturgy at 08:00 and 17:30 in<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, Sunday and holidays at 09:00 in Polish, 10:30 in<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, 12:00 in Latin and 18:00 in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 18:30.<br />

The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Lutheran Church D-3, zh-k Lozenets,<br />

ul. Kapitan Andreev 4, fl. 2, tel. 963 42 44/963 42 48.<br />

Sunday service in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n at 11.45am. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

17:00. Closed Sat.<br />

Removals<br />

Allied Pickfords <strong>Bulgaria</strong> H-8, Business Park Sofia,<br />

Building 12, tel. 807 66 88, fax 807 66 89, movers@allied.bg,<br />

www.allied.bg. Household removals and company<br />

relocation. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group G-7, ul. Kostenski<br />

Vodopad 59, tel. 958 97 21, fax 858 48 29, info.<br />

sofia@corstjens.com, www.corstjens.com. Smooth and<br />

professional relocations. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Orbit Ltd. G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakdzhiev 16, tel. 970 63<br />

00/970 64 00, fax 970 63 33, orbit@orbit.bg, www.<br />

orbit.bg. <strong>In</strong>ternational forwarding and removals. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 15:30. Closed Sun.<br />

Security<br />

Group 4 Securitas H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building<br />

3, tel. 976 09 17/91 944, fax 975 18 40, office@<br />

bg.g4s.com, www.g4s.bg. Provides full range of products<br />

and services related to safety and security. QOpen 08:30<br />

- 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Ipon-1 Ltd. D-3, ul. Rakovski 209, tel. 981 45 48,<br />

ipon_1@abv.bg. Personal protection, encashment<br />

services, sites security. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Security Group Alpha G-9, bul. Iskursko shose 12, et.<br />

6, tel. 979 18 86/979 06 55, fax 979 18 87, alpha_bg@<br />

abv.bg, www.alphabg.com. Physical and technical security.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />

Vets<br />

Animo C-4, zh-k Mladost 1A, bl. 508, tel. 987 40<br />

74/0889 780 180, www.animobg.com. QOpen 00:00<br />

- 24:00.<br />

Avitsena Veterinary Clinic F-7, ul. Naicho Tsanov,<br />

block 114, tel. 822 01 49/0887 477 873, klinik@avicenavet.com,<br />

www.avicenavet.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.<br />

Dr. Antov Veterinary Clinic E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 4,<br />

tel. 868 95 94/0898 831 283, vetclinic@abv.bg, www.<br />

vetbg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Bowling<br />

Galaxy Bowling Club D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 916 65<br />

90, fax 916 65 64, galaxybowling@gmail.com, www.<br />

galaxybowling.eu. Centrally-located club with 6 lanes. Also<br />

offers billiards and video games. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. From<br />

3-5 leva per game. A<br />

Mega Xtreme Bowling Center H-8, Studentski Grad,<br />

ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 12, tel. 969 26 00/969 26<br />

01, bowling_mega@yahoo.com, www.mega-xtreme.com.<br />

Popular 18-alley bowling centre, darts, table football, billiards<br />

and air hokey, packed with students from the nearby dorms of<br />

Studentski Grad, 6km southeast of the centre. QOpen 10:00 -<br />

04:00. From 3,50 - 5,50 leva per person per game. PA<br />

Snooker and Billiard club “Century” E-2, ul. Chervena<br />

stena 4, tel. 0899 988 376, snooker@trivex.org,<br />

www.snooker.trivex.org. The club is not very easy to find,<br />

although it is situated very close to “Kempinski -Zografski”<br />

hotel. There are signs to follow, so it shouldn’t be so hard to<br />

get there. Going downstairs, you will enter this elegant, not so<br />

big, but pleasant place. There are 4 professional billiard and<br />

snooker tables, a small separated corner with a sofa, where<br />

you can have a drink or two, check your email, or just have a<br />

rest. Nice music, plasma TV, an English-speaking staff will take<br />

care of your pleasant stay. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n alcohol is not available,<br />

but the prices are quite low for this type of club. The place<br />

is also used for organized billiard and snooker tournaments.<br />

There are only 3 more billiard and snooker clubs in Sofia,<br />

but that’s the only one, placed in the central part of the city.<br />

QOpen 11;00 - 01:00. PAW<br />

Carting<br />

Carting Speedway Krasna Polyana G-7, bul. Vardar<br />

3A, tel. 920 14 47, kartingsport@abv.bg, www.kartingbg.com.<br />

Kilometre-long circuit. During winter season they<br />

work from 10:00 &#1076;&#1086; 18:00. 2Lv per lap, every<br />

11th is for free. The track can be hired also per hour or per<br />

day. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />

Dance clubs<br />

Alfredo Dance Studio C-2, National Stadium Vasil Levski,<br />

zala MDSport, tel. 0899 222 088, info@alfredostyle.<br />

com, www.alfredostyle.com. Salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Hip<br />

Hop QOpen , Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 21:00.<br />

Alima C-5, ul. Sheynovo 7, Fitness Central Park, Dance<br />

Zone, www.orientaldances.net. Oriental dances - beginner,<br />

intermediate and advanced levels. QOpen , Mon, Tue,<br />

Fri 18:00 - 19:00.<br />

Lira Group Dance Company bul. Yanko Sakazov 17,<br />

tel. 0888 678 963/0888 503 213, info@liragroup.eu,<br />

www.liragroup.eu. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n folk dances, Cuban salsa, Merengue,<br />

Bachata, Cha-cha-cha and Balroom dances. QOpen<br />

closed, Mon, Thu 19:00 - 21:30, Sat 17:00 - 18:15. Closed<br />

Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun.<br />

Pambos Dancing Centre B-3, pl. Garibaldi 2, tel. 0888<br />

354 771/0888 981 769, pambos@pambos.info, www.<br />

pambos.info. Salsa, flamenco and Greek dances. QOpen<br />

18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Raul Torres Dance School C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev<br />

3, tel. 0898 971 083, raultorres@abv.bg, www.torresdance.com.<br />

Salsa, rumba, guaguanco, mambo, cha-cha,<br />

guaracha, samba and merenge, hip-hop and modern ballet.<br />

QOpen 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00.<br />

Tanguerin ul. Krakra 15, Czech Club Ballroom, tel.<br />

0888 373 940/0898 817 906, fax 958 71 55, info@<br />

tanguerin.com, www.tanguerin.com. Tango argentino.<br />

QOpen closed, Mon, Wed, Fri 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue,<br />

Thu, Sat, Sun.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

sPorts<br />

Vai, Dudule! G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 5, 138 school, tel.<br />

0886 885 468/0889502 744. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Folk Dances. “Vai,<br />

Dudule!” is an exclamaition used in a prayer, part of a bulgarian<br />

folklore custom, performed to the saints to send rain in times<br />

of very dry weather. Fri, Sat and Sun private lessons. QOpen<br />

, Mon, Wed 19:20 - 21:30, Thu 18:30 - 20:30.<br />

Extreme sports<br />

Air Sport Flight School B-1, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1,<br />

tel. 951 56 43/0888 123 123, fax 953 15 47, info@<br />

airsport.bg, www.airsport.bg. Training for ultra-light, sel<br />

(single engine land) aircraft, multi engine land (mel) aircraft,<br />

private pilots and aerobatic flights. Certified flight instructors.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.<br />

Club Adrenalin G-8, bul. Sitnyakovo 41A, bl. 1, fl. 1,<br />

tel. 944 44 02/0896 693 700, adrenalin@bungy.bg,<br />

www.clubadrenalin.com. Bungee jumping, hot-air balloon<br />

flights, sky diving, paragliding, rafting, off road, safari and<br />

air advertising.<br />

Cross The Line B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 38, tel. 987<br />

90 89/0887 402 525, crosstheline@abv.bg, www.<br />

crossthelinebg.com. Alpinism, mountain climbing, caving,<br />

rafting, kayaking, canyoning, team building, paragliding and<br />

two-seater plane flights.<br />

Parasof F-7, Svoboda, bl. 36, vhod G, apt. 55, tel. 898<br />

94 42/0888 259 716, www.skydive-bg.com. Parachute<br />

jumps, skydiving and paragliding. You have to be above 16.<br />

Sky Mania H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 15, 514, tel. 868<br />

20 66/0888 903 536, delta_sky@hotmail.com, www.<br />

sky-jet.com. Paragliding and motor pargliding courses,<br />

flying equipment.<br />

Vertical World G-6, ul. 711-ta 3, Knyazhevo, tel.<br />

0888 484 700, vertical_world_bg@yahoo.com, www.<br />

verticalworldbg.com. Bungee jumping, alpinism, caving,<br />

trekking, biking and adventure tourism. Training and equipment<br />

provided.<br />

� The Sofia<br />

telephone code is: 02<br />

January - March 2009<br />

65


66 sPorts<br />

Fitness & Spa<br />

Atama G-8, ul. Cherkovna 86, tel. 843 53 08. Wellequipped<br />

gym and a wide range of beauty treatments.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />

Athletic G-8, ul. Oborishte 22, tel. 489 08 71/489<br />

03 46, reklama@athletic-bg.com, www.athletic-bg.<br />

com. Group classes in ashtanga, step, pilates, and aerobics.<br />

Also offers sauna, solarium, massage and beauty<br />

treatments. Also on ul. Nikolai Kopernik 21, tel. 971 13<br />

01, zh-k Iztok, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 31, bul.<br />

Slivnitsa 228, tel. 822 03 61, bul. Yanko Sakazov 78, tel.<br />

489 03 46. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -<br />

13:00, 17:00-22:00. KD<br />

Boyana Diplomatic Club & Spa H-6, ul. Vasil<br />

Chekalarov 51, Boyana, tel. 957 10 65/857 02 71,<br />

boyana@dclub.bg, www.dclub.bg. <strong>In</strong>door swimming<br />

pool, tennis courts, fitness hall, sauna, jaccuzi, massage.<br />

QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. TLK<br />

Fitness Central Park C-5, ul. Sheinovo 7, tel. 942<br />

31 10, info@fitnesscentralpark.com, www.fitnesscentralpark.com.<br />

Boasting a fully equipped gym and<br />

a variety of machines to suit all body fat percentages,<br />

it also calls itself a beauty club offering manicure and<br />

a cosmetics room, a solarium, sauna, steam bath and<br />

massage. There is a dance floor which offers a varied<br />

program, some of the more popular being MTV dance<br />

and street Jazz. Most of the young, healthy staff speak<br />

Enlish and genuinely seem to enjoy their job. There is<br />

also a small cafe for recuperating in afterwards. QOpen<br />

07:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. PA<br />

Maxi Club & Park Hotel Olymp H-8, bul. Simeonovsko<br />

Shose 110, tel. 892 00 33/892 00 00, olymp@<br />

maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. Hotel complex<br />

southeast of the centre whose gym, sauna and solarium<br />

are open to the general public. Also has swimming pool<br />

on site. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. KDC<br />

Relax Center Blyasak G-8, ul.Kalimantsi 19, tel.<br />

973 36 68/0885 892 000, 2brelaxbliasak@gmail.<br />

com, www.relax.saloni-bliasak.com. A pleasant<br />

place which offers luxurious aromatherapy treatments<br />

for face and body, shiatsu massage, hot stone therapy,<br />

SPA procedures, solarium. Friendly staff at Relax Center<br />

take expert care of your look from top to toe. Try also the<br />

Turkish bath and Finnish sauna. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A<br />

Sparta Fitness + Spinning E-1, bul. Arsenalski<br />

4, tel. 963 13 37/865 6471, office@spartabg.com,<br />

www.spartabg.com. Popular gym offering a wide range<br />

of fat-unfriendly activities: pumping iron, riding stationary<br />

bikes, sweating in saunas. Also offers aerobics,<br />

aquaaerobics, pilates, tae-bo, yoga, spinning, karate,<br />

tennis and football. The sport centre also has 50m<br />

Olympic swimming pool. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 20:00. KDC<br />

The red gym G-7, zh-k Strelbishte ul. Haidushka<br />

gora 111, tel. 818 78 11/0888 731 231, thegym@<br />

abv.bg, www.theredgym.bg. Fitness, aerobics, sauna,<br />

steam bath, Jaccuzzi, massage, solarium, cosmetic<br />

studio, spa therapies, manicure, pedicure and shooting<br />

gallery. Q FD<br />

Ice-rinks<br />

Slavia G-8, ul. Koloman 1, tel. 856 49 75/856 91<br />

97, fax 855 21 37, www.pfcslavia.com. Works from<br />

September till March. Admission 4Lv. Skate rental 3Lv.<br />

QOpen , Wed, Fri 18:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 13:00,<br />

17:00-18:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu.<br />

Winter Sport Palace (Zimen dvorets na sporta)<br />

H-8, Studentski grad, tel. 868 73 34. Out amongst the<br />

high-rise dorms of Sofia’s “student city”, 7km southeast<br />

of the centre. Admission fee: 6Lv, plus a three more<br />

leva for skate rental. Works from September to March.<br />

QOpen , Wed 18:30 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 - 20:30, Sun<br />

17:00 - :20:30.<br />

Golf<br />

Golf Club Air Sofia B-4, Ihtiman, ul. 6-i septemvri 1(office),<br />

tel. 981 09 25/0888 678 144, golf@golf-bg.com, www.<br />

golf-bg.com. Eighteen-hole course with a Par 71 rating. A round<br />

here costs 50Lv per person. Equipment rental available on site.<br />

They might even pick you up from your hotel in Sofia. <strong>In</strong> addition:<br />

fully staffed riding stables with 10 horses, football and basketball<br />

playgrounds, fitness club, hotel and restaurant. Q AFK<br />

St.Sofia Golf Club & SPA C-5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shose<br />

9 (office), tel. 943 45 05/0889 783 888, fax 943 45 04,<br />

office@stsofiagolf.com, www.stsofiagolf.com. <strong>In</strong> Ravno<br />

Pole village - 15 minutes drive southeast of the city centre.<br />

Eighteen hole course with English-speaking management.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.<br />

Horse-riding<br />

Equestrian Base Egida E-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 1,<br />

tel. 865 71 56/0898 643 848, www.egida-sofia.bg.<br />

Located near the centre, on the fringes of Borisovata gradina<br />

park, this is a handy place to take lessons if you’re a beginner.<br />

20min-15Lv, 30min-20Lv, 60min-35Lv, pony ride 2Lv per<br />

round. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />

Equestrian Base Han Asparuh G-6, ul. Haidushko<br />

izvorche 28, tel. 955 90 72/930 07 02, nsb_ead@abv.<br />

bg, www.bulgariasportbase.com. 5km southwest of the<br />

centre near the Slavia football stadium. Lots of nice gee gees.<br />

You have to go on the spot to enquire about riding or tuition.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />

Nova Zvezda G-6, Knyazhevo area, villa area Kiliyte,<br />

tel. 944 76 52/0895 770 777, info@ezdabg.com, www.<br />

ezdabg.com. Horse-riding: 40 min-15Lv, 1 h-20Lv , 1 Day<br />

-70Lv. Equestrian tourism, bow and arrow, visiting of hunting<br />

forestry, 1, 2 and 3 day tours, organizing of parties and team<br />

buildings with horses and exotic animals.<br />

<strong>In</strong>door swimming pools<br />

Spartak E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 865 64 71/963 13<br />

37, office@spartabg.com, www.spartabg.com. Popular<br />

50m Olympic swimming pool next door to the Harmony Sofia<br />

hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.<br />

Sport Palace C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 75, tel. 930 05 02.<br />

Most central of the pools, 25m, and correspondingly popular.<br />

Entry ticket 5Lv, ticket to pool and sauna 7Lv , 8 visits ticket<br />

36Lv, 12 visits 54Lv. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 -<br />

16:00. Closed Sun. DC<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Open-air skating rinks Shooting ranges<br />

Gradska Gradina park B-3, Accross from the National<br />

Art Gallery. On the weekend and holidays works<br />

24h. Admission: 3-4Lv. Skate rental: 3-5Lv. For pupils its<br />

free from 08:00-09:20. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />

Winter Park C-5, pl. Orlov Most (Orlov bridge),<br />

Ariana Lake. Temporary outdoor ice-rink, snowboard<br />

and ski Big Air Jump, rails, fun box, big air bag, quarter<br />

pipe. Skates for hire. 3Lv per hour and 7Lv for the day.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. L<br />

Paintball<br />

Paintball BG bul. Akademik Ivan E. Geshov 50, tel.<br />

952 37 05/0888 511 456, info@paintball.bg, www.<br />

paintball.bg. Paintball adventures in the Dragalevtsi area<br />

just south of the city. 15Lv per game with 100 balls, each<br />

additional 20 balls are 3Lv.<br />

Paintball <strong>Bulgaria</strong> H-8, zh-k Mladost 4, ul. 406, opposite<br />

bl. 469, tel. 484 01 43/0898 747 474, alex@<br />

paintballbulgaria.com, www.paintballbulgaria.com.<br />

Paintball games on and around Mount Vitosha just south<br />

of Sofia. 20 Lv per game with 100 balls, 30Lv with 200<br />

balls, 33Lv with 250 balls, 51Lv with 500 balls. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Paintball Mania G-8, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1, tel. 0888<br />

123 321/489 794, info@paintballmania.bg, www.<br />

paintballmania.bg. Air Ball - paintball field with inflated<br />

bunkers; Battle Field - with real military machinery, training<br />

range with falling targets. Bookings for groups of min.<br />

10 people - at least 2 days in advance. One ball - 0,10Lv,<br />

equippment - 5Lv. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,<br />

Tue.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

sPorts<br />

VIP Shooting Complex G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 51,<br />

tel. 976 60 25/0885 920 557, service@vipgunscenter.<br />

com, www.vipgunscenter.com. Several ranges, professional<br />

instructors, modern guns. Sports club, shops and gun<br />

workshop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. K<br />

Stadium<br />

Natsionalen Stadion Vasil Levski C-5, Borisova<br />

gradina, tel. 930 06 66/930 07 51.<br />

Stadion Bulgarska Armia D-5, Borisova Gradina, tel.<br />

963 34 77.<br />

Stadion Georgi Asparuhov - Gerena F-8, kv.Suhata<br />

reka, tel. 945 30 46.<br />

Stadion Lokomotiv F-7, kv.Nadezhda, tel. 936 03 56.<br />

Stadion Slavia G-6, kv. Ovcha Kupel, tel. 980 05<br />

08/980 49 87.<br />

Tennis & Squash<br />

Academic Tennis Club ul. Nezabravka 3-5, Borisovata<br />

gradina, tel. 870 01 36, info@utcakademic.com, www.<br />

utcakademic.com. Outdoor and indoor courts with professional<br />

trainers, sauna, massage and fitness in the park right<br />

in the heart of Sofia. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 08:30<br />

- 14:00. JFKD<br />

Maleevi Tennis Club G-7/8, bul. Nikola Vapzarov 57,<br />

tel. 962 22 88/0878 622 282, fax 962 86 65, info@maleevaclub.com,<br />

www.maleevaclub.com. 09:00-19:00Tennis,<br />

squash, tennis school, fitness, massage, Thai massage, solarium,<br />

hairdresser, cosmetics, restaurant, bar, events hosting<br />

and shop. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Maxi Club H-7, bul. Simeonovsko shose 110, tel. 962 23<br />

04, dilieva@maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

67


68 BUs<strong>In</strong>ess dIreCtory<br />

Accountants & Consultants<br />

AFA B-5, ul. Oborishte 38, tel. 943 37 00, fax 943 37<br />

07, office@afa.bg, www.afa.bg.<br />

Andi Maks Ltd. B-2, ul. Denkoglu 12-14, tel. 980 24<br />

91, fax 986 29 62, office@andi-maks.com.<br />

Deloitte B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliiski 103, tel. 802<br />

33 00, fax 802 33 50, www.deloitte.com.<br />

Ernst & Young H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 10,<br />

tel. 817 71 00, fax 817 71 11, www.ey.com.<br />

Eurobalance Ltd. G-8, ul. Karnegi 10, tel. 980 77 47,<br />

eurobalance@abv.bg, www.eurobalance.net.<br />

Four Consult G-7, ul. Racho Dimchev 8, tel. 981 30<br />

82/0897 886 925, daniela@fourconsult.com, www.<br />

fourconsult.com.<br />

Grant Thornton C-3, ul.Uliam Gladston 54, tel. 980<br />

55 00, fax 980 48 24, office@gtbulgaria.com, www.<br />

gtbulgaria.com.<br />

KPMG D-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 37, tel. 969 73 00, fax<br />

980 53 40, office@kpmg.bg, www.kpmg.bg.<br />

Price Waterhouse Coopers B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11,<br />

tel. 935 52 00, fax 935 52 66, www.pwc.com.<br />

Advertising agencies<br />

Huts JWT G-8, ul. Charlz Darvin 14B, tel. 971 71<br />

95/971 71 96, fax 971 71 78, info@hutsjwt.com, www.<br />

hutsjwt.com.<br />

Leo Burnett G-8, ul. Maragidik 6, tel. 943 44 51, fax<br />

943 41 65, office@leoburnett.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

McCann Erickson G-8, bul. Shipchenski prohod 63,<br />

tel. 971 96 41, fax 971 95 04, office@mccann.bg, www.<br />

universalmccann.com.<br />

Ogilvy & Mather C-1, ul. Dospat 60-62, tel. 952 34 00,<br />

fax 953 34 19, info@ogilvy.bg, www.ogilvy.bg.<br />

Banks<br />

BNP Paribas <strong>Bulgaria</strong> B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 2,<br />

tel. 921 86 40, fax 921 86 95, bulgaria_bnpparibas@<br />

bnpparibas.com, www.bulgaria.bnpparibas.com.<br />

Bulbank - Uni Credit Group B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 7,<br />

tel. 923 21 11, fax 988 46 36, www.bulbank.bg.<br />

Corporate commercial bank B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 10,<br />

tel. 980 93 62, fax 980 89 48, corpbank@corpbank.bg,<br />

www.corpbank.bg.<br />

First <strong>In</strong>vestment Bank ul. Stefan Karadzha 10, tel. 91<br />

001, fax 980 50 33, fib@fibank.bg, www.fibank.bg.<br />

HVB Bank Biochim B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 1, tel. 926 92<br />

10, fax 926 94 40.<br />

ING Bank D-1, ul. Emil Bersinski 12, tel. 917 64 00, fax<br />

917 65 78, ing.infobg@ingbank.com, www.ing.bg.<br />

OBB (United <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Bank) B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia<br />

5, tel. 811 28 00, fax 988 08 22, info@ubb.bg, www.<br />

ubb.bg.<br />

Poshtenska banka (<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Post Bank) B-4, bul.<br />

Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 816 60 00, fax 988 81 10,<br />

contact@postbank.bg, www.postbank.bg.<br />

Pro Credit Bank A-2, bul. Hristo Botev 131, tel. 921<br />

71 00, fax 921 71 10, contact@procreditbank.bg, www.<br />

procreditbank.bg.<br />

Raiffeisen Bank C-5, ul. Nikolay Gogol 18-20, tel. 919<br />

85 101, fax 943 45 28, www.raiffeisen.bg.<br />

SG Expressbank B-1, bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 73,<br />

tel. 937 04 76, fax 981 79 17, www.sgexpressbank.bg.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n officials<br />

Council of Ministers B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 1, tel.<br />

940 27 70, fax 980 20 56, gis@government.bg, www.<br />

government.bg.<br />

Ministry of Foreign Affairs G-8, ul. Aleksandar<br />

Zhendov 2, tel. 948 29 99, fax 870 30 41, iprd@mfa.<br />

government.bg, www.mfa.government.bg.<br />

National Assembly B-4, pl. Narodno Sabranie 2, tel.<br />

939 39, fax 981 31 31, infocenter@parliament.bg, www.<br />

parliament.bg.<br />

Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2, tel. 923 93 33,<br />

press@president.bg, www.president.bg..<br />

Business connections<br />

American Chamber of Commerce H-8, Business<br />

Park Sofia, Building 2, tel. 974 27 43, fax 974 27 41,<br />

amcham@amcham.bg, www.amcham.bg.<br />

Atlantic Club of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> C-4, ul. Slavyanska 29, tel.<br />

981 06 99, fax 981 57 82, natoinfo@natoinfo.bg.<br />

British <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Chamber of Commerce G-8, ul.<br />

Nikolay Haytov 2, entr.5, 1st floor, tel./fax 971 47 56,<br />

info@bbcc.bg, www.bbcc.bg.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Economic Forum C-2, bul. Vitosha 86, tel.<br />

951 52 59, fax 953 29 24, info@biforum.org, www.<br />

biforum.org.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Business Leaders Forum C-4, ul. Slavyanska<br />

42, tel. 986 52 02, fax 986 56 25, office@bblf.bg,<br />

www.bblf.bg.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Dutch Business Club B-2, ul. Sofroniy<br />

Vrachanski 1, tel. 987 99 11, chairman@bg-nl.com,<br />

www.bg-nl.com.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Chamber of Commerce and <strong>In</strong>dustry<br />

A-5, ul. Iskar 9, tel. 987 26 31, fax 987 32 09, bcci@<br />

bcci.bg, www.bcci.bg.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n <strong>In</strong>dustrial Assosiation B-2, ul. Alabin 16-<br />

20, tel. 932 09 11, fax 987 26 04, office@bia-bg.com,<br />

www.bia-bg.com.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n <strong>In</strong>ternational Business Association B-1,<br />

bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 55, tel. 981 95 64, fax 981<br />

91 69, office@biba.bg.<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Stock Exchange B-2, ul. Tri ushi 10, tel.<br />

937 09 34, fax 937 09 46, bse@bse-sofia.bg, www.<br />

bse-sofia.bg.<br />

European Commission Representation B-3, ul.<br />

Moskovska 9, tel. 933 52 52, fax 933 52 33, delegationbulgaria@ec.europa.eu,<br />

www.evropa.bg.<br />

German-<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Trade and <strong>In</strong>dustrial Chamber<br />

G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25A, tel. 816 30 10, fax 816 30 19,<br />

ahk-office@ahk-bg.org.<br />

<strong>In</strong>stitute for Market Economics B-5, bul. Patriarh<br />

Evtimii 61, tel. 952 62 66, mail@ime.bg, www.ime.<br />

bg.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational Monetary Fund Representative Office<br />

B-3, BNB, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 981 45<br />

06, fax 981 25 24, jroaf@imf.org.<br />

<strong>In</strong>vest <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Agency B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 985<br />

55 00, fax 980 13 20, iba@investbg.government.bg,<br />

www.investbg.government.bg.<br />

Italian Chamber of Commerce B-5, ul. Oborishte<br />

1B, tel. 846 32 80, fax 846 32 81, info@camcomit.bg,<br />

www.camcomit.bg.<br />

North American <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Chamber of Commerce<br />

C-1, ul. Petko Karavelov 1A, tel. 951 53 87, fax 951 69<br />

84, bulgaria@nabcc.org, www.nabcc.org.<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


OJB Shalom bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 50, tel. 870<br />

163, www.shalom.bg.<br />

Privatisation Agency C-4, ul. Aksakov 29, tel./fax<br />

980 98 27, press@priv.government.bg., www.priv.<br />

government.bg.<br />

United Nations in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> C-3, ul. Han Krum 25,<br />

tel. 969 61 00, fax 981 31 84, info@undp.bg, www.<br />

un-bg.bg.<br />

World Bank G-8, <strong>In</strong>terpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, tel.<br />

969 72 29, fax 971 20 45, itaushanova@worldbank.bg,<br />

www.worldbank.bg.<br />

Business facilities<br />

Business Park Sofia H-8, Mladost 4, tel. 489 90 81,<br />

fax 489 90 80, office@businesspark-sofia.com, www.<br />

businesspark-sofia.com. Office space accommodating over<br />

200 companies, restaurants, cafes, shops, banks.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ter Expo Center G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 147,<br />

tel. 965 52 20, fax 965 52 30, bul-reklama@bulgarreklama.com,<br />

www. bulgarreklama.com. Exhibition<br />

and congress complex with 8 separate halls, restaurants<br />

and cafes.<br />

<strong>In</strong>terpred World Trade Centre G-8, bul. Dragan<br />

Tsankov 36, tel. 969 50 52, fax 971 20 06, bsc@<br />

wtcsofia.bg, www.wtcsofia.bg. Rentable office space,<br />

conference facilities.<br />

Sterling Serviced Office Group B-3, ul. Suborna 2A,<br />

tel. 926 41 11, fax 926 41 00, sofia@sterlingoffice.<br />

com, www.sterlingoffice.com. The only serviced office<br />

centre in Sofia.<br />

Event organisers<br />

Company for <strong>In</strong>ternational Meetings Ltd. B-3,<br />

ul. Hristo Belchev 18, tel. 987 74 22, fax 980 60 74,<br />

cim@cim-pco.org, www.cim-pco.org. Leading congress<br />

organizer.<br />

Event House G-7, ul. Topli Dol 2A, tel. 958 99 99, fax<br />

958 99 70, office@eventhouse.bg, www.eventhouse.<br />

bg. Conference halls, interpreters, catering.<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

BUs<strong>In</strong>ess dIreCtory<br />

Sterling Serviced Office Group<br />

Prime Locations. First-Class Environments.<br />

Exceptional Services<br />

<strong>In</strong>stant, Flexible, Affordable<br />

2a Saborna Street, 1000 Sofia, <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />

Tel: +359 (0) 2 926 4111<br />

sofia@sterlingoffice.com<br />

www.sterlingoffice.com<br />

Kongresstechnik <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd. E-1, bul. Arsenalski<br />

115, tel. 866 94 40, fax 866 94 57, office@ktbg.bg, www.<br />

ktbg.bg. Full range of conference equipment and services.<br />

Foreign representations<br />

Albania B-5, ul. Krakra 10, tel. 943 38 57, fax 943 30<br />

69, albanian@centrum-grup.com.<br />

Austria B-4, ul. Shipka 4, tel. 932 90 32, fax 981 05<br />

67, sofia-ob@bmaa.gv.at.<br />

Belgium E-4, pl. Velchova zavera 1, tel. 988 72 90,<br />

fax 963 36 38, sofia@diplobel.be, www.diplomatie.<br />

be/sofia.<br />

Canada B-4, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 969 97 10, fax 981<br />

60 81, consular@canada-bg.org.<br />

Croatia B-5, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 32, tel. 943 32 25, fax<br />

946 13 55, croemb.sofia@mvp.hr, www.infotel.bg/<br />

croembassy.<br />

Cyprus E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 1A, tel. 961 77 31, fax 862<br />

94 70, cyprus@mbox.contact.bg.<br />

Czech Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 946<br />

11 11, fax 946 18 00, sofia@embassy.mzv.cz, www.<br />

mzv.cz/sofia.<br />

Denmark B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54, tel. 917 01 00,<br />

fax 980 99 01, sofamb@um.dk, www.ambsofia.um.dk.<br />

Estonia B-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 937 99 00, fax<br />

937 99 09, embassy.sofia@mfa.ee.<br />

Finland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-28, tel. 810 21 10, fax<br />

810 21 20, sanomat.sof@formin.fi.<br />

France B-5, ul. Oborishte 27-29, tel. 965 11 00, fax 965<br />

11 20, presse@ambafrance-bg.org, www.ambafrancebg.org.<br />

Germany G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25, tel. 918 380, fax 963<br />

16 58, reg1@sofia.diplo.de, www.sofia.diplo.de.<br />

Greece C-5, ul. San Stefano 33, tel. 843 30 85, fax<br />

946 12 49, info@greekembassy-sofia.org, www.info.<br />

greekembassy-sofia.org.<br />

Hungary D-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 57, tel. 963 11 35, fax<br />

963 21 10, huemszof@netbg.com.<br />

China H-8, ul. Aleksandar fon Humbolt 7, tel. 973 38<br />

73, fax 971 10 81, www.chinaembassy.bg.<br />

Ireland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 985 34 25, fax<br />

983 33 02, info@embassyofireland.bg.<br />

Israel D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 951 50 44, fax 952 11 01,<br />

info@sofia.mfa.gov.il.<br />

Italy B-4, ul. Shipka 2, tel. 921 73 00, fax 980 37 17,<br />

ambasciata.sofia@esteri.it, www.ambsofia.esteri.it.<br />

Japan G-8, Lyulyakova gradina 14, tel. 971 27 08, fax<br />

971 10 95, www.bg.emb-japan.go.jp.<br />

Korea H-8, ul. Sofiysko pole 3, tel. 975 33 40, fax 974<br />

55 67, saebyolk�@yahoo.com.<br />

Macedonia G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 17, tel. 870 50 98, fax<br />

971 28 32, todmak@bgnet.bg.<br />

Netherlands G-8, ul. Oborishte 15, tel. 816 03 00,<br />

fax 816 03 01, sof@minbuza.nl, www.netherlandsembassy.bg.<br />

Norway B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54B, tel. 981 11 06,<br />

fax 981 90 10, emb.sofia@mfa.no, www.norvegia.bg.<br />

January - March 2009<br />

69


70 BUs<strong>In</strong>ess dIreCtory<br />

Poland C-3, ul. Han Krum 46, tel. 987 26 10, fax 987 29<br />

39, polamba@internet-bg.net, www.polamba-bg.org.<br />

Portugal B-1, ul. Pozitano 9, tel. 921 68 68, fax 921 68<br />

21, embpor@sofia.dgaccp.pt.<br />

Romania G-8, bul. Mihai Eminesku 4, tel. 971 28 58,<br />

fax 971 36 19, ambsofro@vip.bg.<br />

Russia G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 28, tel. 963 09 14, fax<br />

963 41 03, info@rusembul.org.<br />

Serbia G-8, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 3, tel. 946 16 33, fax 946<br />

10 59, sofia@emb-serbia.com, www.emb-serbia.com.<br />

Slovak Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 942 92<br />

10, fax 942 92 35, embassy@sofia.mfa.sk.<br />

South Africa A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26, tel. 981 66 82, fax<br />

981 57 76, saembsof@techno-link.com.<br />

Spain C-5, ul. Sheynovo 27, tel. 948 99 11, embespbg@<br />

mail.mae.es, www.embespbg.com.<br />

Sweden G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 4, tel. 930 19 60, fax 973<br />

37 95, ambassaden.sofia@foreign.ministry.se, www.<br />

swedenabroad.com/sofia.<br />

Switzerland G-8, ul. Shipka 33, tel. 942 01 00, fax<br />

946 16 22, vertretung@sof.rep.admin.ch, www.eda.<br />

admin.ch/sofia.<br />

Turkey C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 80, tel. 935 55 00, fax 981<br />

93 58, turksofya@spnet.net.<br />

Ukraine G-6, ul. Boryana 29, tel. 818 68 28, fax 955<br />

52 47, puvrb@mbox.contact.bg, http://www.mfa.gov.<br />

ua/bulgaria.<br />

United Kingdom B-3, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 933 92<br />

22, fax 933 92 19, britembinf@mail.orbitel.bg, www.<br />

british-embassy.bg.<br />

USA G-7, ul. Kozyak 16, tel. 937 51 00, fax 937 53 20,<br />

irc@usembassy.bg, www.usembassy.bg.<br />

Lawyers<br />

Arsov Natchev Ganeva B-5, ul. Shipka 36, tel. 943<br />

40 66, fax 946 33 48, info@anglaw.com, www.anglaw.<br />

com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Dia Consult C-2, ul. Uzundzhovska 16, tel. 981 91<br />

78, fax 980 20 26, diacon@mail.techno-link.com,<br />

www.diaconsult.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Dimitrov, Petrov & Co. C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimii 36,<br />

tel. 987 70 96, fax 988 73 60, info@dpc.bg, www.dpc.<br />

bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Kambourov & Partners C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel.<br />

986 99 99, fax 986 99 95, office@kambourov.biz, www.<br />

kambourov.biz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Stoichev, Valkov & Co. Law firm ul. Damian Gruev<br />

20, fl.4, apt.9, tel. 852 69 99/852 49 99. QOpen 09:30<br />

- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Office supplies<br />

Multirama C-3, ul. Solunska 2, tel. 400 66 20, office@<br />

multirama.bg, www.multirama.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />

Office 1 Superstore G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 139,<br />

tel. 070 010 700, fax 070 010 701, tm@hq.office1,<br />

www.office1.bg. Q A<br />

Office Express H-9, bul. Tsarigratsko shose 135, tel.<br />

0800 1 80 80, offex@offex.bg, www.offex.bg. Office<br />

delivery service. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Real estate<br />

Address B-5, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 810 33 44, address@<br />

address.bg, www.address.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Bokar bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 36A, tel. 910 10 10, fax<br />

986 60 63, bokar.imoti@dir.bg, www.bokar-imoti.com.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Colliers <strong>In</strong>ternational H-8, Business Park Sofia,<br />

Mladost 4, Bulding 7B, tel. 976 99 77/0888 372 091,<br />

ivan.velikov@colliers.com, www.colliers.com. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Properties H-8, Mladost-4, bl.<br />

473, vh.2-3, tel. 881 57 14, fax 881 53 32, properties@<br />

discover-bulgaria.com, properties.discover-bulgaria.<br />

com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

Elta Consult B-4, bul. Aleksandar Dondukov 13, tel. 987<br />

76 47/0888 601 846, office@eltaconsult.com. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Grato <strong>In</strong>vestment G-7, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 102, Business<br />

Centre Bellissimo, office 2, tel. 428 13 08/0885 665<br />

730, fax 428 13 07, office@gratoinvestment.com,<br />

www.gratoinvestments.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

<strong>In</strong>tertime Continental B-4, ul. G. Rakovski 146,<br />

tel. 0888 77 27 61, fax 987 01 13, intertime@911.<br />

bg, www.intertime.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Tvoyat dom (<strong>Your</strong> Home) C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel.<br />

986 48 22/0888 65 82 81, fax 987 52 88, info@tvoyatdom.com,<br />

www.tvoyatdom.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Winslow Developments center Serdika,floor 2, office<br />

204, tel. 920 00 72, fax 920 17 82, info@winslowdevelopments.com,<br />

www.winslowdevelopments.com.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Yavlena B-3, ul. Gen. Gurko 76A, tel. 810 50/0887 73<br />

10 06, office@yavlena.com, www.yavlena.com.<br />

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and exclusive features: all online at<br />

inyourpocket.com<br />

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Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Being established back in the year 1896, Borovets is the<br />

oldest ski resort in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.The name of the place used<br />

to be “Cham Koria”, which means “Pine forest” in Turkish.<br />

Since the middle of the 20th century it is called “Borovets”,<br />

which comes from the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n word for pine-tree – “bor”.<br />

There are ski paths, hotels, pubs, night bars, ski and<br />

snowboard schools, horse back riding schools, multiple<br />

souvenir and ski equipment shops and quite a lot of ice,<br />

covering the several asphalted streets and suitable for<br />

practicing your balance and falling skills.<br />

The altimeter reads1350 meters in the center “square”, and<br />

the view spans down the northern slopes of Rila Mountain.<br />

It is easily accessible from Sofia, which is only 70 kilometers<br />

away. Going by car should not be so hard if you follow the<br />

signs on the road and don’t get lost in the beautiful views<br />

of the huge Iskar dam – the biggest in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Getting by<br />

bus is also enjoyable, once you find Bus Station “South”,<br />

which is hidden beneath the bridge, next to the <strong>In</strong>terpred<br />

Trade Center (see map G-8, it is just under the letter “I” in<br />

“Iztok”on Boulevard Dragan Tsankov, number 36.<br />

Busses and mini-van shuttle buses arrive on Samokov bus<br />

station every half an hour. The town of Samokov is only 10<br />

kilometers away from Borovets and to get there you will<br />

need to catch another mini-bus or a taxi. The bus trip will<br />

cost you only 8 Lv.<br />

Bars, Clubs & Discos<br />

Bar Harps. Next to the Gondola, tel. 0898 462 757.<br />

This place is brand new, built and furnished with love, finesse<br />

and the best of materials. It is fairly big and with a nice bar,<br />

sound system, big plasma TV screen (with SKYSPORTS) and<br />

a WC with the first square seat we have ever seen. They will<br />

never play chalga and are definitely among the most polite<br />

people we met in Borovets. The place offers some classic<br />

English types of beer which will make you remember good<br />

old buddies back there in the neighborhood pub. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 03:00. I<br />

BUZZ Bar. Next to the Rila Hotel, tel. 0889 955 955,<br />

disco.bg/buzzbar. Something is definitely buzzing in Borovets<br />

and it couldn’t be anything else then the notorious BUZZ bar.<br />

This is the preferred fun place for all those who love late hour<br />

sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />

Borovets<br />

partying with Dance, House and mostly Hip and Hit music.<br />

No chalga CD-s on any of the shelves, but bottles of various<br />

brands and shapes, ready to push out the air of any bar glass.<br />

SKYSPORTS on the big plasma can give a good reason for some<br />

beers to end up empty. QOpen 20.00 - 04.00. P<br />

The Blue. Next to Rila Hotel on the street going uphill,<br />

tel. 0878 105 077. <strong>In</strong> the small street across the Rila Hotel,<br />

there is a blue magical place, called the Blue. It is actually quite<br />

colourfull, full of all those spiritual and cool little thingies, sold<br />

by hippie-style girls in the souvenir art shops. It is a little kitsch<br />

, but cosy and very pleasant and relaxing for the snow-tired<br />

eye. They serve English cuisine and all types of alcohol, play<br />

nice music and keep the fireplace booming. They will work as<br />

long as you stay there. (20-30 Lv) QOpen 10:30 - 04:00.<br />

IBKW<br />

Hotels<br />

Complex Alpin. tel. 32 203/32 201, office@alpin-hotel.<br />

bg, www.alpin-hotel.bg. Do not take Alpin Complex at face<br />

value. Although three star qualified, it is a neat and comfortable<br />

place, across the mammoth Rila hotel and close to the<br />

lifts. It has double, single rooms and one and two storey villas.<br />

Especially nice is the VIP apartment, which is romantic and<br />

luxurious and has a plasma TV set and a bubble bath. The<br />

rooms all have stereos, cable TV and WiFi, as well as bath<br />

tubs. Except for a swimming pool and a gym, they offer most<br />

“classic” hotel features: mini bars, sauna, conference room,<br />

and a restaurant with room service. The brown and beige<br />

furniture of the rooms and cozy villas is a nice break from<br />

the overly present gleaming white. Q22 rooms (5 doubles<br />

€ 17-40, 2 studios, 1 Vip apartment, 8 villas). The prices are<br />

for person for day. TALGKDW hhh<br />

Forest Star. tel. 32 021, forest_star@abv.bg. It is next to<br />

the lift, literally and also one of the few local tourist facilities,<br />

which try to break the mold. With its entrance area, resembling<br />

a rock cave, this place would be a refuge for younger ones,<br />

bored with the look-alike style of local hotels. It lacks the ever<br />

present pools, Jacuzzis and saunas, but still has a neat bistro,<br />

comfortable and tidy rooms and hospitable staff. Q20<br />

rooms (20 doubles €26 - 31). JAILGKSW hh<br />

Guest House Momina Salza. tel. 32 573, www.mominasalza.com.<br />

It is a beautiful hotel house, 100 meters from<br />

the Gondola. Do not fear the big black dog, he is a wise and<br />

good beast. This place has nothing to do with the stereotypical<br />

hotel, it’s a nice spacious house with apartments for guests<br />

and common big kitchen and dining room for them to use. There<br />

is also a bar in the basement with a booming fireplace. Guests<br />

can use solarium and sauna in the cold days and have patriotic<br />

style barbecues if the weather allows it. Q6 rooms (5 doubles<br />

€13 - 31, 1 apartment €21 - 46). ILBD hhh<br />

Hotel Deniv. tel. 32 253, hotel-deniv@diartbg.com.<br />

Neighboring and connected to “Forest Star” via a underground<br />

pass, this small hotel is still a little untidy, but will hopefully be<br />

ok for the tourist season. It is perfect for all budget skiers and<br />

travelers and offers accommodation slightly better than in a<br />

mountain hut. It has a huge, folklore-styled mehana. Q14<br />

rooms (13 doubles €13, 1 quad €13). Prices are per person,<br />

no breakfast included. ALGKSW hh<br />

� The Borovets<br />

telephone code is: 0750<br />

January - March 2009<br />

71


72 Borovets<br />

Hotel Ela. tel. 32 271, office@hotelela.com, www.<br />

hotelela.com. With its classic wooden sloped outlook,<br />

this hotel reminds us of the “happy” years of communism.<br />

The restaurant and lobby bar will keep you well fed and in<br />

a drinking mood. For the sporty types there’s a gym, table<br />

tennis and billiards room. The sauna and steam bath will<br />

revitalize your body after a good day of skiing, but nothing<br />

will do better than a good sleep in the comfy rooms.<br />

They will take you with your dogs and even take care of<br />

any wild kids in their kindergarten. There is a ski school<br />

and even a pharmacy on their premises. Q70 rooms (19<br />

singles €16 - 36, 51 doubles €16 - 36). H6IFLG�<br />

BKDW hhh<br />

Hotel Lion. tel. 33 015, fax 33 030, avramov@<br />

hotelslion.bg. Hidden in the forest above the “old town”,<br />

this hotel is a true gem. Its accommodations are luxurious,<br />

tastefully furnished and spacious, with mini bars and plasma<br />

TV sets and kitchenettes in the studios and apartments. Six<br />

of the rooms and the hotel itself are adapted for disabled<br />

persons. Silence and pine trees surround this serene location<br />

and I bet there is no better way to enjoy the falling snow,<br />

than relaxing in the superb pool of the hotel. There are many<br />

more things to see and experience there: the stylish lobby<br />

bar, the mehana, the Turkish bath, pool and tennis tables,<br />

solar and hairdresser studio. Although quite far from the<br />

lifts, the hotel has a shuttle bus, which can take you to the<br />

slopes in minutes. Q161 rooms (5 apartments € 90-180,<br />

24 studios € 75-175, 62 doubles € 60-130, 65 luxury rooms<br />

€ 65-150). HAUIFGBKDC hhhh<br />

Hotel Sokol. tel. 33 434, fax 33 444, hot_sokol@abv.<br />

bg. Separated from the fuss of the main street, this small,<br />

but stylish and comfortable hotel is a perfect alternative<br />

for those, detesting yelling drunks and striving for privacy<br />

and silence. Lying in the winter garden, watching the snow<br />

on the huge pine trees, you can leave all worries to their<br />

polite and friendly staff and enjoy the spa and massage<br />

center and the Finnish Jacuzzi. The rooms have mini bars<br />

and flat TV sets and are tastefully furnished. There is also<br />

a gym and a conference room, in case you are not so lazy.<br />

The premises and rooms are fitted for disabled persons,<br />

but no pets are allowed in the hotel. It has a superb view<br />

to the famous frozen fountain of Borovets. Q42 rooms (40<br />

doubles €23 - 52, 2 apartments €41 - 72). ARUI�<br />

FLGKD hhh<br />

Ice Angels Across the Rila, tel. 32 045/32 607,<br />

reservations@iceangelshotel.com, www.iceangelshotel.com.<br />

Hotel Ice Angels is the perfect vacation spot in<br />

Borovets, close to the lifts and all the bars and offering<br />

all the comforts needed for enjoying winter sports. The<br />

place is tastefully designed, luxurious, but not shiny and<br />

pretentious. The rooms are comfortable and decorated<br />

with style and most of them offer a splendid view of the<br />

mountain and the ski runways. There is a nice spa center,<br />

a small pool, steam and Turkish bath, massages and<br />

Jacuzzi. And even if you are too lazy to go downstairs, the<br />

rooms have bathtubs, so you can relax in private. Q 44<br />

rooms (14 singles € 72, 14 doubles € 105, 8 studios €<br />

140-150, 4 apartments € 200-210). JHARIF�<br />

GBKDCW hhhh<br />

Rila Lodge Guest House. Dospey village, ul. 8,<br />

house 3, tel. 66 827/0877 753 092, info@rilalodge.<br />

com, www.rilalodge.com. This family-run B&B is found in<br />

a small village, 2km from Samokov and 9km from Borovets.<br />

They provide pick up service from Sofia airport, transport to<br />

Borovets and discount rent-a-car service. The three-storey<br />

house offers 3 bedrooms, designed with solid wooden and<br />

wicker furniture, cable TV, shared living room with fireplace<br />

and breakfast room. The bathrooms are with showers. If you<br />

feel like peace and quite, away from the hassle of Borovets,<br />

yet, close to Samokov, this is the right place for you. Q3<br />

rooms (1 double €25 - 50, 1 Twin €25 - 50, 1 Family (quad to<br />

6) €100 - 150). A6IBKW<br />

Vila Park. On the buss stop, Old Center, tel. 0899 133<br />

837. Located in the “old center” of Borovets, next to the local<br />

church and the bus stop. It is a spacious apartment complex<br />

with a huge pool, a gym, Jacuzzi and a steam bath. The apartments<br />

and studios are spacious and tastefully furnished to<br />

make you feel home, but you can always drown the blues in<br />

something from the lobby bar, or the mini bar in your quarters.<br />

There is a children’s corner and also a stylish restaurant. Q<br />

86 rooms (26 apartments €40 - 120, 60 Studio €30 - 80).<br />

TJHAUIFLGBKDCW hhhh<br />

Restaurants & Cafes<br />

Bistro Central. tel. 0887 480 787. Being in the centre<br />

and international food is what this place offers and nothing<br />

more. Not a single attempt for fancy decorations, apart from a<br />

stuffed deer head and cheap looking chairs. It has a fireplace,<br />

but this joint is definitely still frozen in socialist times. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 00:00. (15-30 Lv). IGBS<br />

Bistro Elite. Across the Gondola Lift, tel. 32 557. This is<br />

a pleasant place for eating nice, genuine <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n foods and to<br />

drink some homemade wines and rakias. The place is furnished<br />

with wood and is cosy and unpretentious. Combine this with the<br />

snow and the hunger after a day on the slopes and the homely<br />

smell of burning wood and homemade dishes and you’ll know<br />

what we felt there. QOpen 10:00 - 10: 00. (15-24 Lv).<br />

Bistro Forest Star. tel. 0885 612 039, forest_star@<br />

abv.bg. When we entered the bistro, which also doubles as<br />

an entrance area for the hotel “Forest Star”, we thought of<br />

good old Fred Flintstone, as it resembles a rock cave. No Dino<br />

steaks, but everything “traditional” is present and available<br />

for room service and takeaway. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

(14-35Lv). AS<br />

Chinese Restaurant Red Dragon. Next to the Gondola,<br />

tel. 32 617. The first and only place to offer genuine<br />

Chinese food, cooked by a real, “imported” Chinese cook.<br />

Although lacking an original Chinese atmosphere, it has two<br />

fireplaces, cable TV with SKYSPORTS and cool revolving<br />

tables for an easy access to the exotic goodies, served in<br />

big quantities and tasty qualities. They work only within the<br />

skiing season, but do it hard and also deliver food anywhere<br />

in Borovets. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (10-25Lv). IS<br />

Pizza Sunny. tel. 0898 462 757. It is where we had the<br />

best pizza ever, made in the classic “granny” style and taste.<br />

The place itself is cosy, comfortable and with a booming<br />

fireplace. The loads of football scarves hanging from the<br />

ceiling and the pictures of the staff, with loads of short-haired<br />

and tattooed tourists suggest glorious times of boozing<br />

and singing anthems for favourite teams. They offer superb<br />

pizzas, some local and international meals and takeaway<br />

and home deliveries in the area. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

(10-20Lv). JIBS<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


Pizzeria Venezia. tel. 0888 588 677. They use the best<br />

ever advertisement for their food - a pig on a skewer, turning<br />

and spreading an inviting cloud, just in front of Hotel Rila. The<br />

place is “mehana”-styled and offers a variety of national and<br />

international meals, as well as good service and a manager,<br />

always ready for some discount. A good place to fill up your<br />

stomach at. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (8-20Lv). JIB<br />

Restaurant Balkani. tel. 0888 882 234. Definitely the<br />

biggest and lavishly decorated eating place around. A definite<br />

must see location with a lot to offer. Although scandalous<br />

with the combination of some traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n decorations,<br />

chandeliers and animal skins with Turkish corners<br />

with divans and hookahs. Combine that with a seven-piece<br />

gypsy band, pounding furious chalga and you got a serious<br />

party place. They have an impressive menu of traditional,<br />

international and sea food and an extensive wine list. What<br />

we liked especially is the huge indoor barbecue, with a skewer<br />

big enough to spike through a bull. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.<br />

(13-40Lv). IEGBS<br />

Restaurant <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Dish. tel. 0888 881 515,<br />

hotel-deniv@diartbg.com. It is a big mehana restaurant<br />

and a part of the Deniv Hotel. Although a little big, it still has<br />

a cozy air of a burning fireplace, colourful table mats and<br />

national pride. They serve traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n meals, have DJ<br />

and occasionally a folk music band. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.<br />

(6-26Lv). IES<br />

Restaurant Eagles Rocks. tel. 0889 379 609.<br />

Quite a big space, which provokes eating and drinking to<br />

excess. Just do not try to fly like an eagle from any rocks<br />

nearby. It offers international food and a variety of booze.<br />

The music is mostly chalga and Serbian chalga, but it goes<br />

well with steaks and beers. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (16-<br />

40Lv). IGBS<br />

Snack bar Joy. Next to the Gondola lift. This is a nice<br />

place for a snack or a lunch. They offer pizzas and mostly international<br />

food. The wooden interior and the fireplace, along<br />

with some hot meals will give you relaxation and refreshment<br />

after an exhausting day in the snow. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00.<br />

7 - 15 Lv. AIGBSW<br />

Steak House Katina. tel. 0888 349 179. Nothing wrong,<br />

apart of the misspelled name on the menu. Cosy in the classic,<br />

post-socialistic way. A bit kitsch, but with a booming fireplace<br />

and colorful tablecloths. Next to the mammoth Rila and the<br />

quad lift and offering a big and comprehensive menu with<br />

pictures and prices. The small pizza is really small, so go for<br />

the big ones if you are really hungry. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.<br />

(8-15Lv). JIBS<br />

Shopping<br />

Opticlasa. Sunsport, Royal Plaza shopping complex,<br />

shop 5, opticlasa@trading.bg, www.opticlasa.com.<br />

Souvenir and ceramics shop Ermini. tel. 0899<br />

133 837. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n traditional souvenirs, art ceramics and<br />

candles. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Winter sports<br />

Ski & snowboard school Snowmasters. tel. 0888<br />

873 789, www.snowmasters-bg.com. Ski, snowboard,<br />

freeride, telemark, blades, kindergarten. QOpen 08:00 -<br />

20:00. J<br />

Ski School Resmi. tel. 0889 234 830, kali_40@<br />

abv.bg. Ski rentals, ski trecking, telemark. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00.<br />

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January - March 2009<br />

73


74 <strong>In</strong>dex<br />

Street <strong>In</strong>dex<br />

11-ti avgust A/B-4<br />

13-ti mart D-3<br />

20-ti april B/C-1, C-2<br />

6-ti septemvri B-4, C-3/4, D-3<br />

Aksakov B/C- 3, C-4<br />

Alabin<br />

Aleksandar<br />

B-2/3<br />

Batenberg pl. B-3<br />

Aleksandar Nevski pl.<br />

Aleksandar<br />

B-4<br />

Stamboliyski bul. B-1/2<br />

Angel Kanchev B/C-3<br />

Antim I A-2, B-1/2<br />

Arsenalski bul. E-2<br />

Atanas Dalchev G-8<br />

Baba Nedelya pl. D-2<br />

Bacho Kiro A/B-3<br />

Budapeshta A-3/4, B-4<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> bul. D-1/2<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> pl. C-2<br />

Cherkovna G-8<br />

Cherni vrah bul. D-2/3, E-3<br />

<strong>In</strong>dex<br />

4km Party Centre 38<br />

8th Ball 41<br />

Adams restaurant 35<br />

Adonis 40<br />

Alcohol 38<br />

Alexander Palace 21<br />

Alga 29<br />

Amsterdam 37<br />

Anel 18<br />

Angels Club 41<br />

Annette 29<br />

Apartament 52 35<br />

Apartment House Dunav 23<br />

Apartment House Iztok 23<br />

Apartment House Sofia 23<br />

Aris 22<br />

Art Club Museum 34<br />

Arte 21<br />

Art-Hostel 24<br />

Art 'Otel 18<br />

Atlantic 21<br />

Avenue 42<br />

B29 Piano Bar 41<br />

Babbles 38<br />

Bacardi Box 42<br />

Back Stage 41<br />

Backstage Karaoke Bar 41<br />

Barabar 35<br />

Bar na kraya na vselenata 42<br />

Basic 35<br />

Baskerville 35<br />

Be My Guest 24<br />

Best Western Hotel Expo 19<br />

Biblioteka Cool House - Piano<br />

Bar 41<br />

Bilkovata 35<br />

Bistro Zita 27<br />

Bitburger 37<br />

Black Box 38<br />

Blaze 35<br />

Boyansko hanche 31<br />

Brilyantin 38<br />

Brod 22<br />

Buddha Bar 39<br />

Bulgari 21, 25<br />

<strong>Bulgaria</strong> 34<br />

Butchers 27<br />

By The Way 35<br />

Cabaret 39<br />

Cactus 28<br />

Cappuccino bar & dinner 35<br />

Denkoglu B-2/3<br />

Dragan Tsankov bul. C/D-4, D-5<br />

Dunav A/B-4<br />

Dyakon Ignatiy B-3<br />

Dzheims Baucher E-3/4<br />

Ekzarh Yosif A-2/3/4/5<br />

Elin Pelin D-4/5<br />

Evlogi Georgiev C-4/5, D-3<br />

F. Z. Kyuri G-8<br />

Frityof Nansen C-3, D-2<br />

Garibaldi pl. B-3<br />

Georgi Benkovski A/B-4<br />

Gladston C-2/3<br />

Graf Ignatiev B-3, C-3/4<br />

Gurko B/C-3, C-4<br />

Han Asparuh C-2/3<br />

Han Krum C-3<br />

Hristo Belchev B-3, C-2/3<br />

Hristo Botev bul. A-2, B-2, C-2<br />

Hristo Smirnenski D-4, E-4<br />

Iskar A/B-4, B-3<br />

Ivailo B-2<br />

Captain Cook 31<br />

Cargo 35<br />

Casa Boyana 19<br />

Casa de Cuba 35<br />

Casa Ferrari Bed and<br />

Breakfast 21<br />

Central 19<br />

Central Forum 19<br />

Central Park Hotel 19<br />

Chalet Suisse 32<br />

Checkpoint Charly 28<br />

Chepishev 31<br />

Chervilo 39<br />

Chillout Bar & Dinner 36, 40<br />

Chillout Lounge 36<br />

Classic 29<br />

Club 703 36<br />

Club Liqueur 39<br />

Club Sugar 39<br />

Coffee House 34<br />

Comercial 28<br />

Cookies bar & dinner cafe 28<br />

Costa Coffee 34<br />

Crystal Palace Boutique<br />

Hotel 19<br />

Dedeman Sofia Princess 19<br />

Diter 21<br />

Divaka 25<br />

Don Domat 30<br />

Egur, Egur 25<br />

Elate Plaza 21, 28<br />

Escape 39<br />

Etno 25<br />

Exit Club 40<br />

Fix Mix 34<br />

Flannagans 37<br />

Gioia 29<br />

Grand Hotel Sofia 18<br />

Greenville Hotel & Apartment<br />

Houses 19<br />

Hadzhidraganovite kashti 25<br />

Halbite 25<br />

Happy Bar & Grill 26<br />

Harmony 23<br />

Hilton 18<br />

Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Sofia 18<br />

Hostel Mostel 24<br />

Hostel Sofia 24<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternet Hostel 24<br />

Irish Harp 37<br />

Jim Beam Club 42<br />

Jimmy's 34<br />

Ivan Shishman B/C-4, C-3<br />

Ivan Vazov B-3/4, C-4<br />

Kaloyan B-3<br />

Knyaz Boris C-1/2<br />

Knyaz Dondukov bul. B-3/4/5<br />

Kozloduy F-7<br />

Kozyak G-7<br />

Krakra B/C-5<br />

Krum Popov D-3/4<br />

Krastyo Sarafov D-3/4<br />

Karnigradska B-2<br />

Lavele B-2<br />

Lege B-3<br />

Lyuben Karavelov C-3/4, D-3<br />

Madrid bul. G-8<br />

Makedonia pl. B-2<br />

Maria Luiza bul. A-3, B-3<br />

Moskovska B-4<br />

Naicho Tsanov bul. F-7<br />

Narodno sabranie pl. B-4<br />

Neofit Rilski C-2/3<br />

Nezavisimost pl. B-3<br />

Nikola Vaptsarov bul. G-7/8<br />

Oborishte B-5<br />

Orlov most C-5<br />

Panayot Volov A-5, B-5<br />

Parchevich C-2/3<br />

Patriarh Evtimiy bul. C-2/3<br />

Pencho<br />

Slaveykov bul. C-1, D-1/2<br />

Pirotska A-1/2, B-3<br />

Pop Bogomil A-3/4<br />

Pozitano B-1/2/3<br />

Praga bul. C-1<br />

Rakovski A-4, B-4<br />

San Stefano C-5<br />

Serdika A-3, B-3<br />

Sheinovo C-5<br />

Shipka B-5<br />

Simeonovsko shose G-8, H-8<br />

Sitnyakovo bul. G-8<br />

Slaveykov pl. C-3<br />

Slavyanska B-3/4, C-4<br />

Sofiiski geroi G-7<br />

Sofroniy Vrachanski A-2, B-2<br />

Solunska B-2, C-3<br />

Stara planina B-4, A-5<br />

J. J. Murphy's 38<br />

Kapri 21<br />

Kempinski Hotel Zografski 18<br />

KFC 30<br />

Kohinoor 27<br />

Kolikovski Hotel 22<br />

Kumbare 26<br />

Kushtata s chasovnika 28<br />

Latinka 22<br />

Lavazza Club 34<br />

Lebed 31<br />

Legends 22<br />

Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel 19<br />

L'Etranger 26<br />

Life House 40<br />

Light 20<br />

Lion 22<br />

London Minute 34<br />

Lozenetz 22<br />

Magdanoz (Parsley) 26<br />

Magnolia 27<br />

Manastirska magernitsa 26<br />

Maskata 42<br />

Maxi Park Hotel & Spa 20<br />

McCarthy's 36<br />

McDonald's Rock'n'Roll 30<br />

Mediterrani 36<br />

Meg Lozenetz 22<br />

Moderato 28<br />

Mon Ami 30<br />

Moskva 30<br />

Motto 36<br />

NAI-klub 41<br />

Niky 23<br />

Onda Coffee Break 34<br />

Opera 36<br />

Orient 33 42<br />

Orisha bar & dinner 36<br />

Otvud aleyata zad shkafa 28<br />

Palms Merkur Casino 38<br />

Park Hotel Vitosha 20<br />

Planeta 41<br />

Pod lipite 26<br />

Pop Bogomil 23<br />

PR 40<br />

Pri Latsi 26<br />

Pri Miro 31<br />

Pri Yafata 26<br />

Pulse Club 40<br />

Radisson SAS Grand Hotel 18<br />

Red Bed and Breakfast 23<br />

Renaissance 22<br />

Stefan Kardzha B-3/4<br />

Saborna B-3<br />

Sv. Naum bul. E-3/4<br />

Sveta Nedelya pl. B-3<br />

Todor Aleksandrov bul. A-1, B-1/2<br />

Totleben bul. C-1<br />

Tri ushi B-2<br />

Triaditsa B-3<br />

Tsar Asen B-2, C-2<br />

Tsar Osvoboditel bul. B-4, C-5<br />

Tsar Samuil B-2, C-2<br />

Tsar Simeon A-1/2/3/4<br />

Tsarigradsko shose G-8, H-9<br />

Tulovo C-5<br />

Tundzha C-1, D-2<br />

Vasil Levski bul. A-4, B-5, C-3/4<br />

Veliko Tarnovo G-8<br />

Veslets A/B-3<br />

Vitosha bul. B/C/D-2, D/E-1<br />

Vladayska B1<br />

Vladimir Vazov bul. G-8<br />

Vazrazhdane pl. B-1/2<br />

Yanko Sakazov bul. B-5<br />

Yuri Venelin C-4<br />

Residence Oborishte 20<br />

Retro club Gramophone 40<br />

RotasaR 23<br />

Ruski klub 31<br />

Sakura 29<br />

Salsa plus 40<br />

Scotty's Boutique Hotel 22<br />

Seasons 28<br />

Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan 18<br />

Shipka 23<br />

SkyWay Hotel 20<br />

Social Jazz Club 41<br />

Sofia Guesthouse 24<br />

Sofia Plaza 20<br />

Starbucks café 34<br />

Stroezha 42<br />

Sushi Bar 29<br />

Sveta Sofia 20<br />

Swingin' Hall 41<br />

Taboo Club 41<br />

Taj Mahal 27<br />

Tambuktu 31<br />

Tazka 29<br />

Tea House 36<br />

The Black Lodge 40<br />

The Blue Box 40<br />

The Bookies 34<br />

The Club 41<br />

The Net 42<br />

The Rooms 24<br />

Toba&Co 36<br />

Toucan Bluzz & Rock 42<br />

Triada 20<br />

Trikrakoto pile 28<br />

Trops Kushta 30<br />

Troyantsite 28<br />

Tsarsko Selo 20<br />

Tsentralni hali 30<br />

Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red<br />

Line) 36<br />

Ugo 30<br />

Uno Enoteca 28<br />

Upstairs 37<br />

Vagabond 31<br />

Variety 24<br />

Vega Sofia Hotel 21<br />

Victoria 30<br />

Vishnite 29<br />

Vodenitzata 31<br />

Vratata (The Door) 29<br />

Yalta 40<br />

Yesterday Karaoke Bar 41<br />

Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com


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streets & MaPs<br />

January - March 2009<br />

75


76 streets & MaPs<br />

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streets & MaPs<br />

January - March 2009<br />

77


78 streets & MaPs<br />

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