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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
No 13<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
SOFIA<br />
<strong>In</strong>cluding<br />
BOROVETS<br />
Enjoy your<br />
COMPLIMENTARY<br />
COPY<br />
of Sofia<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
January-March 2009<br />
Winter Fun<br />
Down the slopes of<br />
Vitosha and Borovets<br />
Metal Winter<br />
Headbang till springtime
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the<br />
continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Europe’s City Guide<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
ESS ENT I A L C I T Y GUID E S
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Sofia 5<br />
Touching down<br />
The Basics 6<br />
Essential reading for those not sure where<br />
they are<br />
History 8<br />
How the past has shaped the present<br />
<strong>In</strong>troducing Sofia 9<br />
Mayor of Sofia<br />
Keeping in touch 10<br />
Let your Mum know how you are<br />
Culture & Events 12<br />
This winter, mostly heavy metal!<br />
The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n symbol - Tsarevets<br />
Famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns – Khan Krum and Ralitsa<br />
Vassileva<br />
Pablo Picasso’s paintings are in town<br />
Where to stay 18<br />
Places to recharge the batteries and catch up<br />
on your beauty sleep<br />
Dining & Nightlife<br />
Restaurants 25<br />
Where to wine and dine<br />
Cafés 34<br />
Feed the addiction<br />
Nightlife 35<br />
Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands<br />
and knees<br />
Contents<br />
Message from the Mayor<br />
Dear visitor,<br />
Welcome to Sofia.<br />
Our city has ancient and intriguing<br />
history. It is a capital, rich in<br />
cultural monuments, dating from<br />
antiquity to present day. The<br />
constantly renewed face of the<br />
city is true to its motto: “It grows,<br />
but never ages”.<br />
If you are visiting our capital for<br />
the first time, you will certainly<br />
enjoy seeing the Church of St. Sofia, the Alexander Nevski<br />
Memorial Church, the Rotunda of St. George and the<br />
Boyana Church from the 11 th century.<br />
You can explore the collections of the National History<br />
Museum, the Archeological Museum, the National<br />
Art Gallery, as well as other museums and galleries,<br />
throughout the city.<br />
Most of Sofia’s main sights are centrally situated and<br />
can easily be visited on foot.<br />
If you have already been here before, now you will discover<br />
new and exciting places to visit; great restaurants,<br />
clubs, shops and galleries, which will undoubtedly enrich<br />
your stay in Sofia. I sincerely wish you a wonderful time<br />
in our capital city.<br />
Boyko Borisov<br />
Mayor of Sofia<br />
What to see 43<br />
Essential Sofia<br />
Sofia districts - Boyana and Dragalevtsi<br />
Mount Vitosha<br />
Getting around 54<br />
Making sense of transport<br />
Directory<br />
Shopping 58<br />
Go on a spree<br />
Health & Lifestyle 62<br />
Prevention is better than cure<br />
Sports 65<br />
Get this six-pack<br />
Business 68<br />
Oligarchs anonymous<br />
Borovets 71<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s oldest winter resort<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Street index 74<br />
<strong>In</strong>dex 74<br />
City map 75<br />
City centre map 76<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> map 78<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
3
4 foreWord<br />
Basically people are two types: chilling and freezing. To know<br />
them, you just need a winter, some snow and free time. You<br />
have all these, so you are either: Type “A” - you have aching<br />
pains, as well as a pair of skis, or a snowboard up on the<br />
wardrobe and you are happy to eagerly spend most of your<br />
holiday money just to go up the darn mountains; And type ”B”<br />
– with a closet, filled with bear-skin thick coats and scarves<br />
and thinking of ice only in terms of cooling the booze?<br />
All type “A-s”, who have already taken this issue out of their<br />
pockets, can jump right to page 71 and learn some very<br />
useful information about <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s oldest winter resort<br />
Borovets. It happens to be quite close to Sofia and offers<br />
good accommodation, cool places to eat and party, as well<br />
as long ski-runs, with a several degrees of difficulty, known<br />
as one of the best in the land. Vitosha Mountain, Sofia’s<br />
extinct volcano also offers some thrills and rides, including<br />
a superbly lit night ski-run for all those who hate “early to<br />
bed, early to rise”.<br />
Of course, winter fun is not just for mountain slope fanatics,<br />
you can shred some ice on the skate-rinks in Sofia (see more<br />
on page 66), or, being the “B”-type, as in “I think I need a quick<br />
shot to warm me up”, “boozing and partying” or just “bar fly”,<br />
you can look around for some indoor amusement.<br />
This winter, Sofia will host some furious metal shows and<br />
if names like Sepultura, Sodom, Kreator, Lordi and even<br />
softer sounding Marillion and The Rasmus, are somewhere<br />
in your play list, then you will have the chance to meet them<br />
in person, on stage (see more on page 16).<br />
For all those art fans, or even for all human beings, a close<br />
encounter with an artist as brilliant as Picasso can be pretty<br />
mind-bending. An exhibition of his works is in the National<br />
Gallery of Foreign Art until the middle of March (see more on<br />
page 17). You can also catch a last glimpse at the projects<br />
of some of the biggest stadia and theatres in Communist<br />
Russia.<br />
As usual, we keep you informed about everything new and<br />
interesting in Sofia. You can learn about the suburban neighbourhoods<br />
Boyana and Dragalevtsi, known for their huge<br />
mansions and big shiny cars, or find out about the Tsarevets<br />
fortress in Veliko Tarnovo, which used to be the heart of the<br />
Second <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom.<br />
Speaking of history, our famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are Khan Krum,<br />
the merciless ruler and Ralitsa Vassileva – long time news<br />
presenter on CNN.<br />
And of course, on the First of March all <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns and their<br />
welcomed guests should put on their martenitsas, so we<br />
can all celebrate the long awaited Springtime!<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3,<br />
pristroika, parter<br />
(opposite the Business Park)<br />
1715 Sofia, <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02<br />
fax: + 359 2 881 53 32<br />
sofia@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1312-742X<br />
© Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd.<br />
Printed by Delta High Print EAD<br />
Published 4 times per year<br />
15 000 copies<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay<br />
Assistant Editor Vesela Lyudskanova, Mitko<br />
Nikolov<br />
Research Mitko Nikolov, Vesela<br />
Lyudskanova, Maya Kozareva<br />
Layout & Design Krassimir Apostolov<br />
Photos Veronica de Boer, Nikola Apostolov,<br />
Vladimir Hadzhiev<br />
Cover Veronica de Boer<br />
Europe <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Odesa <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>, a mini-guide to the jewel<br />
of the Ukrainian coast, became the 50th <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> guide when published back in November. It<br />
was followed quickly by Maribor <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>,<br />
a mini-guide to the second largest city in Slovenia.<br />
This year will see more new full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>s,<br />
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Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
Ltd. – <strong>Bulgaria</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> 2008.<br />
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights<br />
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Sales & Circulation<br />
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General Manager Veronica de Boer<br />
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Sales & Circulation Vesela Lyudskanova<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
Available from Airports – Burgas, Varna, clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
Plovdiv and Sofia, airline companies, rent- readers’ comments and suggestions.<br />
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centres, shopping malls, foreign embassies the accuracy of the information at the<br />
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Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Relax. There seem to be more signs, written in the<br />
English language on major roads, and there are more and<br />
more <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, who feel confident to speak “English”.<br />
After all, they have been watching American subbed<br />
movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people<br />
have university degrees. The more you get stuck in traffic<br />
jams and the harder it is to park, then you must be in the<br />
city centre.<br />
By plane<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east<br />
of the city centre, is divided into two terminals - the aging<br />
Terminal 1 and the recently opened Terminal 2. The arrivals<br />
halls at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire and taxi<br />
counters, information desk, ATMs and exchange bureaux<br />
(although beware that rates here are not particularly<br />
generous, so it’s best to only change enough cash for immediate<br />
survival).<br />
Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the arrivals<br />
halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow taxis<br />
parked outside (OK Supertrans and Taxi S Express). The<br />
fare into town shouldn’t cost more than 16Lv (E8).<br />
Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal<br />
1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5)<br />
on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly<br />
every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets<br />
cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the<br />
driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bulky<br />
piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined<br />
by ticket inspectors.<br />
By train<br />
Sofia’s Central Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00<br />
- 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute<br />
walk north of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage,<br />
money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets.<br />
Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the<br />
adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage<br />
lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage<br />
office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket<br />
hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item).<br />
Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1<br />
or 7 (buy ticket from kiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from<br />
opposite the station forecourt - head for the subterranean<br />
underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take<br />
you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s<br />
amenities - get off when you see the Sheraton Hotel looming<br />
up on your left.<br />
The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpredictable<br />
bunch; check that their meters are switched on<br />
or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200<br />
metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi<br />
firms are more reputable.<br />
By bus<br />
Most international and domestic buses arrive at the<br />
spanking new Central Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara),<br />
200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to<br />
other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly<br />
civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a<br />
pharmacy, and an ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage<br />
office (2-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket<br />
hall.<br />
To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south<br />
down bul. Maria Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to<br />
pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see above).<br />
There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
arrIv<strong>In</strong>G <strong>In</strong> sofIa<br />
Street smarts<br />
Street Улица (ул.) Ulitsa (ul.)<br />
Square Площад (пл.) Ploshtad (pl.)<br />
Boulevard Булевард (бул.) Boulevard (bul.)<br />
Highway Магистрала Magistrala<br />
Bridge Мост Most<br />
Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-Market terminal<br />
mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this<br />
is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices<br />
and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on<br />
either side to find any facilities.<br />
By car<br />
Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudits for<br />
being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your<br />
speed to avoid the many police checks on incoming roads.<br />
Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake<br />
and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and<br />
get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam,<br />
which are unfortunately becoming more and more frequent,<br />
especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find<br />
in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones<br />
cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clamping and<br />
your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking vouchers<br />
are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can<br />
just send SMS to 1302 with your registration number (for<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and transit license plate numbers), and you will<br />
be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to<br />
pay for the next hour.<br />
BOOK ON: +359 2 981 46 26,<br />
reservations@europcar.bg, www.europcar.bg<br />
Free delivery / collection<br />
� The Sofia<br />
telephone code is: 02<br />
January - March 2009<br />
5
6 BasICs<br />
Alcohol<br />
The archetypal national tipple is rakiya, which usually comes<br />
as either grozdova rakiya (grape brandy) or slivova (plum).<br />
It’s usually served up in 50g or 100g shots and is consumed<br />
alongside salad or some other form of nibble – wait-staff will<br />
consider you peculiar if you don’t order at least something to<br />
snack on while you’re slugging down spirits. As far as beer is<br />
concerned, <strong>Bulgaria</strong> produces several palatable if unexciting<br />
lagers – Zagorka, Shumensko and Kamenitsa are the most<br />
reliable of the big brands. Much more impressive are the dry<br />
red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon from Svishtov and<br />
Oryahovitsa, Merlot from Stambolovo, Gumza from Novo Selo,<br />
Mavrud from Asenovgrad, and Melnik from the village of same<br />
name. The Chardonnays and Traminers from Veliki Preslav are<br />
among the best of the whites.<br />
Customs<br />
If you are travelling within the EU, those over 18 can now take<br />
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries<br />
will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />
You’re not allowed to export antiques, artworks or coins<br />
of numismatic value unless you have a permit issued by<br />
the Ministry of Culture. Due to fears about child trafficking,<br />
travellers with small children may be asked for documentary<br />
evidence of their parental relationship before being allowed<br />
to leave the country.<br />
Electricity<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> runs on a 220 volt electricity supply (so some<br />
visitors will need to bring a transformer). Standard continental<br />
two-prong plugs are used, so others will need to<br />
furnish themselves with an adaptor, if they want to use their<br />
hairdryer/phone/ charger/laptop.<br />
Smoking<br />
Cafès, bars and restaurants are required by law to provide an<br />
area for non-smokers. <strong>In</strong> practice however this will probably<br />
consist of one or two tables, surrounded on all sides by<br />
nicotine addicts happily puffing away.<br />
Tourist information<br />
The National Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre B-3,<br />
pl. Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. 933 58 45, fax 989 69<br />
39, info@bulgariatravel.org, www.bulgariatravel.<br />
org. The Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre has undergone<br />
a far-reaching facelift in the past few months, and<br />
now constitutes an inviting and altogether quite chic<br />
info-boutique, equipped with designer bar-stools for<br />
tourists to perch on while helpful staff distribute free<br />
maps or search their databases for the answers to all<br />
sorts of queries. They aren’t authorized to make hotel<br />
reservations on tourists’ behalf, but they do distribute<br />
well-informed locally-published guides like this one.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />
20B (entrance from ul. Lavele), tel. 980 51 02, fax<br />
980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg.<br />
com. The staff at this private travel agency, specializing<br />
in individual and alternative holidays are a mine of invaluable<br />
information - be aware however that they charge a<br />
5Lv consultancy fee (which is deducted from the cost<br />
of any arrangements you book through them). QOpen<br />
08:30 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Visas<br />
Citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the<br />
USA can stay in the country visa-free for 90 days. Nationals<br />
of other countries should contact the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n embassies or<br />
consulates in their home countries about visa arrangements.<br />
Note that visas cannot be obtained at the border.<br />
If you wish to extend your stay beyond the 90-day period you<br />
should apply for a residence permit from the Immigration<br />
Office, bul. Maria Luiza 48, tel. 982 37 64. Open 09:00 –<br />
17:00. Closed Sat & Sun.<br />
Key phrases<br />
The following is a list of some of the most common words<br />
and phrases a person is likely to need.<br />
Hello Zdravei<br />
Goodbye Dovizhdane<br />
Please Molya<br />
You’re welcome Pak zapoviadaite<br />
Thank you Blagodarya<br />
Excuse me Izvinete<br />
Yes / No Da / Ne<br />
Cheers Nazdrave<br />
I don’t understand Ne razbiram<br />
I don’t know Ne znam<br />
Do you speak English? Govorite li angliiski?<br />
What’s up? Kakvo stava?<br />
Good morning! Dobro utro!<br />
Good afternoon / evening! Dobur den / vecher!<br />
Good night! Leka nosht!<br />
Have you got…? Imate li…?<br />
Where can I buy…? Kude moga da kupya…?<br />
How many / how much? Kolko / Kolko struva?<br />
Good / bad Dobro / losho<br />
Expensive / cheap Skupo / evtino<br />
New / old Novo / staro<br />
Hot / cold Toplo / studeno<br />
Forgive me! Prostete mi!<br />
You are a very pretty girl Vie ste mnogo krasivo<br />
momiche<br />
You are a very attractive man Vie ste mnogo<br />
privlekatelen mazh<br />
May I have the bill? Mozhe li smetkata?<br />
No offence, but it’s too Ne se obizhdayte, no<br />
expensive for me<br />
Days of week<br />
e tvarde skapo za men<br />
Monday Ponedelnik<br />
Tuesday Vtornik<br />
Wednesday Sryada<br />
Thursday Chetvurtak<br />
Friday Petuk<br />
Saturday Subota<br />
Sunday<br />
Numbers<br />
Nedelya<br />
1 edno<br />
2 dve<br />
3 tri<br />
4 chetiri<br />
5 pet<br />
6 shest<br />
7 sedem<br />
8 osem<br />
9 devet<br />
10 deset<br />
100 sto<br />
1000 hilyada<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Roads & Traffic police<br />
Most <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns turn into psychopaths as soon as they get<br />
behind the wheel of a car, although given the state of the road<br />
network one can hardly blame them. Cow-sized potholes,<br />
suicidal pedestrians and drunken cyclists riding on the wrong<br />
side of the road are just some of the things to look out for –<br />
and with hazards like these you need to swerve around like<br />
a stunt driver in order to stay in one piece.<br />
Streets in central Sofia can be clogged with traffic. Road<br />
signage is haphazard and street names are almost exclusively<br />
in Cyrillic, so you need to research your route on a map before<br />
you set off. Finding a place to park can be a nightmare. A lot socalled<br />
blue-zone parking areas are run by private companies.<br />
Parking vouchers (1Lv/hour) are sold on the spot by parking<br />
attendants. <strong>In</strong> order to drive on <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n roads outside Sofia<br />
you’ll need to purchase a vignette which must be displayed in<br />
the windscreen. You can get these from border crossings, all<br />
post offices and OMV and Shell gas stations. For a car or SUV<br />
vignettes cost 10Lv for one week, 25Lv for one month, and<br />
67Lv for a year. Speed limits are 120km/hr on main highways,<br />
90km/hr on minor roads and 50km/hr in urban areas.<br />
Talking on a mobile phone while driving is strictly forbidden,<br />
as is driving under the influence of more than 0.5/1000 of<br />
alcohol. Foreigners are well advised to obey the rules of the<br />
road even if they see locals behaving otherwise: the police<br />
rarely speak English and are unlikely to show any lenience.<br />
Police checks on major highways are common, especially<br />
when entering or leaving Sofia at the weekend. Policeman are<br />
allowed to charge on-the-spot fines up to 50 Lv.<br />
Basic data<br />
Territory: <strong>Bulgaria</strong> takes up 110, 550 km2 of land. It<br />
shares borders with Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia<br />
and Romania. The country is bordered to the east by a<br />
354km-long stretch of Black Sea coastline.<br />
Rivers: The main rivers in the country are Danube,<br />
Maritsa, Mesta, Strouma, Iskar, Yantra. There are more<br />
than 600 warm and cold mineral springs.<br />
Highest Point: Musala (2925m), south of Sofia in the<br />
Rila mountains.<br />
Population of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>: 7,385,367 (July 2006 est.)<br />
Population of Sofia: 1,377,531 (July 2006 est.)<br />
Foreigners in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>: 60 000 (July 2006 est.)<br />
Foreign tourists per year: approximately 6,5 million.<br />
Local time: <strong>Bulgaria</strong> is part of the Eastern European Time<br />
Zone (GMT +2); when it is noon in Sofia it is 11:00 in Berlin,<br />
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York City.<br />
Religion: Traditional religion in the Republic of <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
is Eastern Orthodox Christianity. Orthodox 85%, Muslim<br />
8%, others 7%.<br />
Market values<br />
How do costs compare to back home? Here is handy list<br />
of local prices to give you an idea.<br />
Leva Euro<br />
Loaf of white bread 1.00 0.50<br />
Snickers bar 0.80 0.40<br />
Litre of vodka 40.00 20.00<br />
Bottle of local beer 2.00 1.00<br />
20 Marlboros 5.00 2.50<br />
Exchange rates (as of January 2009): US$1 - 1.40Lv;<br />
€1 – 1.95Lv; £1 – 2.08Lv<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
The Cyrillic Alphabet<br />
BasICs<br />
Аа a as in arm<br />
Бб b as in bath<br />
Вв v as in van<br />
Гг g as in go<br />
Дд d as in dog<br />
Ее e as in let<br />
Жж zh as ’s’ in measure<br />
Зз z as in zoo<br />
Ии i as in bit<br />
Йй y as in yoke<br />
Кк k as in keep<br />
Лл l as in like<br />
Мм m as in map<br />
Нн n as in not<br />
Оо o as in opera<br />
Пп p as in pen<br />
Рр r as in run<br />
Сс s as in sit<br />
Тт t as in tap<br />
Уу u as in rule<br />
Фф f as in fan<br />
Хх h as in hand<br />
Цц ts as in cuts<br />
Чч ch as in church<br />
Шш sh as in short<br />
Щщ sht as in smashed<br />
Ъъ a as in but<br />
Ьь softens ’o’ as in yoga<br />
Юю yu as in you<br />
Яя ya as in yard<br />
National holidays<br />
January 1: New Year’s Day (Nova godina)<br />
March 3: Liberation Day (Liberation from the Ottoman<br />
rule) (Denyat na osvobozhdenieto)<br />
April 19: Easter (Velikden)<br />
May 1: Labour Day (Denyat na truda)<br />
May 6: St. George’s Day (Gergyovden; Day of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Army)<br />
May 24: St. St. Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril<br />
i Metodyi; Day of the Cyrillic Alphabet and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Education and Culture)<br />
September 6: Unification Day (Saedinenieto; marking<br />
the unification of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and Eastern Rumelia in<br />
1885)<br />
September 22: <strong>In</strong>dependence Day (Denyat na nezavisimostta)<br />
December 24,25,26: Christmas (Koleda)<br />
Important phone numbers<br />
Fire: 160 / 112<br />
Ambulance: 150 / 112<br />
Police: 166 / 112<br />
Road assistance: 146<br />
Anti-corruption unit: 982 22 22, www.nocorr.mvr.bg<br />
Telephone information: 11800<br />
Breakdown Service: 91146 or 146 if you’re calling from<br />
a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n mobile<br />
January - March 2009<br />
7
8 HIstory<br />
History<br />
Antiquity <strong>In</strong> antiquity, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, the land of Orpheus and<br />
Spartacus, belongs to the Kingdom of Macedonia.<br />
4 th century BC The territory of contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong> is<br />
conquered by the Macedonians, lead by Philip II and his son<br />
Alexander the Great. During the first century AD these lands<br />
become Roman provinces.<br />
632 The History of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> as a separate country begins<br />
with the establishment of Old Great <strong>Bulgaria</strong> (also known<br />
as Onoguria).<br />
681 First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom is established by Khan<br />
Asparuh.<br />
865 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> becomes a Christian country. Tsar Boris I accepts<br />
Orthodox Christianity.<br />
9 th -10 th centuries “The Golden Age” period under the rule of<br />
Tsar Simeon the Great. The Slavic writing is officially accepted<br />
throughout the country. Literature schools, imposing temples<br />
and monasteries are built. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> has an outlet on three<br />
seas - the Black sea, Aegean Sea and the Adriatic. The capital<br />
is moved to Veliki Preslav, which during that period could be<br />
compared with the beauty and glory of Constantinople.<br />
1018 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> falls under Byzantine rule until 1185.<br />
1185 The Second <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom (1185-1396) is founded<br />
after two brothers, Asen and Peter. The capital city of the new<br />
kingdom becomes Veliko Turnovo.<br />
12 th -13 th centuries Under the rule of the Tsar Kaloyan (1197-<br />
1207) and Tsar Ivan Asen II (1218-1241), <strong>Bulgaria</strong> becomes<br />
a dominant power in the Balkans.<br />
1393 The Ottomans occupy the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n capital Veliko<br />
Turnovo after a three-month siege.<br />
1396 The Kingdom of Vidin is occupied, bringing the Second<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Empire and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n independence to an end.<br />
14 th -18 th centuries By the end of the 14 th century, the<br />
Turks control all of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Ottoman rule continues for five<br />
centuries.<br />
18 th century The Age of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n National Revival begins.<br />
<strong>In</strong> spite of the resistance of the central Turkish authorities and<br />
the Greek clergy (the so-called phanariots), the struggle for an<br />
independent church, the publication of books and, later on, of<br />
periodicals in the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n language, the establishment of lay<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n schools and the official recognition of the language<br />
and culture, become real steps to the revival of the nation.<br />
One important landmark was the writing of the Slav-<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
History (1762) by monk Paissi of Hilendar.<br />
1876 <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n revolutionaries launch the April Uprising at<br />
Koprivshtitsa. The Turks suppress it with unprecedented<br />
brutality. About 15,000 <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are massacred at Plovdiv<br />
and 58 villages destroyed. Outraged European allies come to<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s rescue in the late 1870s. Russia, the chief saviour,<br />
suffers 200,000 casualties in the conflict.<br />
1877-1878 The Russian-Turkish war leads to the liberation<br />
of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> from the Ottoman Empire.<br />
March 1878 The Treaty of San Stefano provides for an<br />
independent <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n state, which spans the geographical<br />
regions of Moesia, Thrace and Macedonia.<br />
July 1878 The Treaty of Berlin, under the supervision of Otto<br />
von Bismarck of Germany and Benjamin Disraeli of Britain,<br />
splits <strong>Bulgaria</strong> into three parts: an independent Principality of<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> based in Sofia, the autonomous Ottoman province<br />
of Eastern Roumelia; and Macedonia, which remains under<br />
direct Ottoman rule.<br />
April 1879 The Turnovo Constitution is passed by the First<br />
Grand National Assembly.<br />
June 1879 Alexander Battenberg becomes prince of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>,<br />
and Sofia becomes the capital of the new <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n state.<br />
September 1885 Eastern Rumelia declares union with<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />
1887 A coup replaces Alexander Battenberg with Ferdinand<br />
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.<br />
Recent History<br />
<strong>In</strong> June 2001, the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n monarchy makes an<br />
unprecedented comeback when former king Simeon II is<br />
elected prime minister. Unable to ease economics hardships<br />
for the majority, however, he too sees his popularity<br />
plummet after a few months in power. <strong>In</strong> the same<br />
election, the country’s Turkish minority is represented<br />
in the government for the first time, and the president<br />
encourages <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns to be more tolerant of Turkish-<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns. Progress continues under President Georgi<br />
Parvanov, albeit slower than most hope. Membership of<br />
NATO is granted in 2004, and entry into the European<br />
Union follows in 2007.<br />
July 27, 2005 the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Parliament chose Sergey<br />
Stanishev of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Socialist Party as the new<br />
Prime Minister in a coalition government with the Movement<br />
for Rights and Freedoms. August 15, 2005 the<br />
BSP and National Movement Simeon II formed a stable<br />
government, along with the Movement for Rights and<br />
Freedoms. This grand coalition comprises the three<br />
largest parties. This coalition has a large majority in<br />
parliament with 169 of the 240 deputies.<br />
September 1908 Ferdinand upgrades <strong>Bulgaria</strong> from principality<br />
to kingdom and declares himself Tsar.<br />
1912-1913 The Nationalist Prime Minister, Ivan Geshov,<br />
forms an alliance with Greece and Serbia to attack the<br />
Ottomans and to drive them out of Macedonia and Thrace.<br />
The Balkan Wars are sparking. The alliance soon fall out,<br />
with Greeks and Serbs expelling <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n forces from<br />
Macedonia, and then dividing up the spoils.<br />
1915-1918 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> joins the German side in World War I. A<br />
Serb-French-British offensive in Macedonia causes <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s<br />
collapse. Ferdinand abdicates in favour of son Boris III.<br />
1919 Elections are won by the Peasant party of Aleksandar<br />
Stamboliyski promising widespread social change.<br />
1923-1934 Democratically elected governments are<br />
toppled via coups that bring authoritarian regimes to<br />
power.<br />
1941 <strong>Bulgaria</strong> enters World War II on the side of the<br />
Rome-Berlin-Tokyo Axis. The country is the only ally of<br />
Hitler’s Germany which did not allow the killing of its Jewish<br />
citizens. It was thanks to king Boris III and to the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
governments that no hostilities are waged in the country’s<br />
territory.<br />
1944 After World War II, as a result of the Yalta agreements<br />
between the Great Powers, <strong>Bulgaria</strong> ends up in the field of<br />
influence of the Soviet Union.<br />
1953-1989 Years of the communist rule of Todor Zhivkov<br />
who headed both the party and the state.<br />
10 November 1989 Under pressure from domestic and<br />
international circumstances Todor Zhivkov is forced to<br />
resign. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> once again takes the road of democratic<br />
development.<br />
7 December 1989 The Union of Democratic Forces (SDS) is<br />
formed as a unification of 13 opposition organisations.<br />
June 1990 First free parliamentary elections.<br />
12 July 1991 A new democratic Constitution is passed.<br />
13 October 1991 First free local authorities elections.<br />
1992 First free presidential elections. Zhelyu Zhelev is<br />
elected head of state.<br />
3 November 1996 Petar Stoyanov, proposed by the SDS,<br />
is elected with President of the Republic of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> with a<br />
landslide majority.<br />
19 April 1997 The Parliamentary elections are won by the<br />
Democratic Forces United. A government is formed headed<br />
by Ivan Kostov as Prime-Minister. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> starts on the road<br />
of genuine democratic reforms.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
The history of Sofia,<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s capital and largest<br />
city, spans thousands<br />
of years from antiquity to<br />
modern times. Throughout its<br />
existence, the city has always<br />
been a commercial, industrial,<br />
cultural and economic centre<br />
of the Balkans region. Sofia<br />
has always been well known<br />
for its mineral resources,<br />
neighbouring mountains and<br />
historical sights.<br />
Antiquity<br />
Sofia is originally a Thracian settlement called Serdica,<br />
named after the Thracian tribe Serdi that had populated it.<br />
4 th century BC For a short period the city is possessed by<br />
Philip of Macedonia and his son Alexander the Great.<br />
29 AD Sofia is conquered by the Romans and renamed Ulpia<br />
Serdica. It becomes a municipium, or centre of an administrative<br />
region, during the reign of Emperor Trayan (98-117).<br />
447 The city is destroyed by the Huns, but is rebuilt by Byzantine<br />
Emperor Justinian and renamed Triaditsa. Although<br />
also often destroyed by the Slavs, the town remains under<br />
Byzantine dominion until 809.<br />
Middle Ages<br />
809 Sofia becomes part of the First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom during<br />
the reign of Khan Krum.<br />
1018 The city again falls to the Byzantine Empire.<br />
12 th -14 th centuries Sofia is a thriving centre of trade and<br />
crafts. It is renamed Sofia (meaning “wisdom” in Greek) in<br />
1376 after the Church of St Sophia. However, it is called both<br />
“Sofia” and “Sredets” until the 16th century, when the new<br />
name gradually replaced the old one.<br />
Ottoman rule<br />
1382 Sofia is conquered by the Ottoman sultan Murad I.<br />
Many Ottoman buildings emerge during the period. Very<br />
few of them have survived, including only a single mosque,<br />
Banya Bashi. The Ottoman rule saw a major demographic<br />
growth, as the city grew from a total population of 6,000<br />
(1620s) through 55,000 (middle 17 th century) to 70-80,000<br />
(18 th century data from foreign travellers, albeit possibly<br />
exaggerated).<br />
16 th century Sofia is a thriving trade centre inhabited by<br />
Turks, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, Romaniote, Ashkenazi, and Sephardic<br />
Jews, Armenians, Greeks and Ragusan merchants. During<br />
the next century the city’s population included even Albanians<br />
and Persians.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>In</strong>trodUC<strong>In</strong>G sofIa<br />
Mayor of Sofia<br />
Mr. Boyko Borissov is the leader of Sofia City and also unofficial<br />
leader of of the GERB party “Citizens for European<br />
Development of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>”. A no-nonsense figure hardly<br />
ever spotted with necktie. He today is without doubt the<br />
most popular person in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n politics. We owe him<br />
special thanks for the speedy reconstruction of the over<br />
trafficked Sofia ring road, soon to be THE place where<br />
local Porsche and Ferrari owners will put their pedal to the<br />
metal if no firm speed control measures are built-in.<br />
17 th century The Vatican establishes the Bishopric of Sofia<br />
for Ottoman subjects belonging to the Catholic millet in<br />
Rumelia, which existed until 1715 when most Catholics had<br />
emigrated to Habsburg or Tsarist territories.<br />
1878 Sofia is liberated by Russian forces in 1878, during the<br />
Russian-Turkish War (1877-1878)<br />
1879 The city becomes the capital of the autonomous<br />
Principality of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, which becomes Kingdom of <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
in 1908.<br />
1900 The City Council approves the emblem of Sofia and<br />
the motto “It Grows but Does not Age”.<br />
1925 The gravest act of terrorism in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n history, the<br />
St Nedelya Church assault, is carried out by the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Communist Party, claiming the lives of 150 and injuring<br />
another 500.<br />
World War II<br />
Sofia is bombed by Allied aircraft in late 1943 and early 1944,<br />
as well as later occupied by the Soviet Union.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s regime, which has allied the country with<br />
Nazi Germany, is overthrown and Sofia becomes capital<br />
of the Communist-ruled People’s Republic of <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
(1944–1989).<br />
Totalitarian regime<br />
(9 September 1944-10 November 1989) During the<br />
years of communism, Sofia becomes the nation’s major<br />
economic, academic and cultural centre. From its years<br />
of socialist growth, however, the capital inherited a great<br />
deal of problems, which are at present the priorities of the<br />
democratically - elected council of Sofia.<br />
1992 <strong>In</strong> honour of the celebration of St. Sofia the Martyr, the<br />
Government chose September 17 th as the Day of Sofia. The<br />
flag of Sofia Municipality is also consecrated on that day. The<br />
Day of Sofia is also celebrated like the Day of saints Vyara,<br />
Nadezhda and Lyubov.<br />
According to non official information nowadays Sofia has a<br />
population about 3 million people. Most of them come to the<br />
capital for work and business opportunities.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
9
10 KeeP<strong>In</strong>G <strong>In</strong> toUCH<br />
Couriers<br />
City Express C-3, ul. Gladston 58, tel. 912 12, www.<br />
city-express.com. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00.<br />
DHL G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakchiev 10, tel. 070 017 700.,<br />
sofcustcare@dhl.com, www.dhl.bg. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Direct F-7, ul. Rayna Knyaginya 7, tel. 928 98 98, direct@direct.bg,<br />
www.direct.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />
Flying Cargo <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd. (FedEx) G-9, ul. Nedelcho<br />
Bonchev 10, tel. 080 011 000, fax 973 13 66, www.flyingcargo-bg.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Time /UPS/ G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 41, tel. 960<br />
99, fax 960 98 99, intime@intime.bg, www.intime.bg.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Speedy D-3, bul. Cherni vrah 67, tel. 0 7001 7001,<br />
www.speedy.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tip Top F-7, bul. Lomsko shose 35, tel. 936 99 99, fax<br />
936 98 10, tiptop@courier.bg, www.courier.bg. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TNT G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 35, tel. 070 011 666,<br />
fax 933 91 44, tnt.sales.bg@tnt.com, www.tnt.com/<br />
country/bg_bg.html. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet cafes<br />
Garibaldi C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 989 42 85, info@<br />
garibaldicafe.net, www.garibaldicafe.net. Eighteen<br />
computers plus scanning, printing and low-rate international<br />
phone calls. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.<br />
Matritsata C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 70, www.ma3x.net.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.<br />
Site C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 986 08 96, info@siteout.<br />
net, www.siteout.net. Quiet, comfortable spot in a courtyard<br />
just off the street. Coffee and other drinks. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.<br />
Virtus C-2, ul. Han Asparuh 53, www.virtus.hit.bg.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.<br />
ISPs<br />
Bitex D-2, ul. William Gladstone 39, tel. 980 02 38,<br />
info@bitex.com, www.bitex.com. Dial-up services, wireless<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet, leased lines, hosting, web design.<br />
CableTEL G-7, zh-k Lozenets, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 51A,<br />
tel. 480 01 11/0700 11 011, info@cabletel.bg, www.<br />
cabletel.bg. LAN and cable internet, IP telephony, cable and<br />
digital TV. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Digital Systems B-3, ul. Triaditsa 4, tel. 981 13 01,<br />
fax 980 68 89, office-sofia@digsys.bg, www.digsys.bg.<br />
Wireless network, cable internet, virtual private networks, IP<br />
telephony, web services.<br />
Megalan Network H-8, ul. Yordan Yosifov 4, Business<br />
cenre Mania, fl.1, tel. 0800 18 400/0800 20 400, info@<br />
megalan.bg, www.megalan.bg.<br />
Power Net B-1, ul. Ovche pole 122, fl.3, tel. 987 65<br />
43/0878 125 880, info@powernet.bg, www.powernet.<br />
bg. LAN and cable <strong>In</strong>ternet, free dial-up, web services.<br />
Spectrum Net G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 36, tel. 489 06<br />
00, info@spnet.net, www.spnet.net. All kinds of <strong>In</strong>ternet<br />
services.<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Globul Mladost-4, Business Park, building 6, tel.<br />
942 80 00, fax 942 80 10, CustomerCare@globul.bg,<br />
www.globul.bg. One of the main mobile operators. You<br />
can buy their b-connect pre-paid cards. For information tel.<br />
089 123.<br />
Free Wi-Fi zones W<br />
Sofia may not be the best place in the world, in terms of<br />
communication, but still the days of carrier pigeons are<br />
long gone. There are several free Wi-Fi zones in town:<br />
The park ”Gen. Vladimir Zaimov”, B-5<br />
The park “Doktorskata Gradinka”, B-5<br />
Central Bus Station, F-8<br />
Shopping Center “Tsentralni hali”, A-2<br />
NDK “Mostat na vlyubenite” (Lover’s Bridge), D-2<br />
Postal rates<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Europe USA & Others<br />
Postcards 0.35 Lv 1.00 Lv 1.40 Lv<br />
Letters 0.55 Lv 1.00 Lv 1.40 Lv<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n main city codes<br />
Blagoevgrad 73<br />
Burgas 56<br />
Dobrich 58<br />
Gabrovo 66<br />
Haskovo 38<br />
Yambol 46<br />
Kyustendil 78<br />
Lovech 68<br />
Pazardzhik 34<br />
Pernik 76<br />
Pleven 64<br />
Plovdiv 32<br />
Ruse 82<br />
Silistra 86<br />
Sliven 44<br />
Sofia 2<br />
Stara Zagora 42<br />
Varna 52<br />
V. Tarnovo 62<br />
Vidin 94<br />
Vratsa 92<br />
The above codes should be prefixed with 0 if dialing<br />
from inside <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational country codes<br />
Austria 43<br />
Belgium 32<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> 359<br />
Croatia 385<br />
Czech Rep. 420<br />
Denmark 45<br />
Finland 358<br />
France 33<br />
Germany 49<br />
Greece 30<br />
Hungary 36<br />
Ireland 353<br />
Israel 972<br />
Italy 39<br />
Japan 61<br />
Macedonia 389<br />
Netherlands 31<br />
Norway 47<br />
Poland 48<br />
Portugal 351<br />
Romania 40<br />
Russia 7<br />
Serbia 381<br />
Slovenia 386<br />
Spain 34<br />
Sweden 46<br />
Switzerland 41<br />
Turkey 90<br />
UK 44<br />
USA/Canada 1<br />
The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing<br />
from inside <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n resort codes<br />
Albena 579<br />
Balchik 579<br />
Bansko 749<br />
Borovets 750<br />
Golden sands 52<br />
Nessebar 554<br />
Pamporovo 3095<br />
Sozopol 550<br />
St. St. Konstantin<br />
and Elena 52<br />
Sunny beach 554<br />
The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing<br />
from inside <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
MTel ul. Kukush 1, tel. 0888 088 088, fax 0888 500<br />
885, customerservice@mobiltel.bg, www.mtel.bg. Another<br />
major mobile operator. They sell prepaid cards for the<br />
Prima network, available at most kiosks and shops.<br />
Vivatel C-1, bul. Totleben 8, tel. 087 123, www.vivatel.<br />
bg. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s third mobile phone operator, started in 2005.<br />
Phone rental<br />
<strong>In</strong>trafonica <strong>Bulgaria</strong> near Sofia <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport,<br />
tel. 49 13 330, customer.service@intrafonica.com,<br />
www.intrafonica.com. Short- to mid-term GSM cell phone<br />
rentals, local SIM cards and Mobile <strong>In</strong>ternet services delivered<br />
via GPRS, thus avoiding inflated roaming rates and incoming<br />
call charges. Rental packages are delivered either to your<br />
hotel or to alternative address of your choice. Orders online<br />
available. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Post<br />
Central Post Office B-3, ul. Gurko 6, tel. 980 12<br />
25, www.bgpost.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:00<br />
- 13:00.<br />
T Post H-8, Mladost 4, Business Park Sofia, tel. 489<br />
81 60, www.tpost-bg.com. First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n private post.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Pre-paid mobile service<br />
Frog mobile , www.frogmobile.bg. Take your starter pack<br />
and vouchers at a kiosk near you or from a store from the<br />
trade network of Globul. By dialing 1212 from your mobile<br />
number or +359891212 from any fixed or mobile telephone<br />
you get connected to the Customer Care Center.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
KeeP<strong>In</strong>G <strong>In</strong> toUCH<br />
Petrol mobile. Take your starter pack and vouchers at<br />
Petrol oil stations all over the country. For more information call<br />
333 (for Petrol mobile owners only) or 098 8733333 .<br />
Public telephones<br />
BTC Centre B-3, ul. Gurko 4. You can make international<br />
calls from the metered cabins and pay the cashier on the<br />
way out. Also <strong>In</strong>ternet access available. QOpen 00:00 -<br />
24:00.<br />
Planetphone B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 18B, tel. 980 28<br />
75, planetphone@planetphone.net, www.planetphone.<br />
net. Cheap international calls. QOpen 9:30 - 22:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:00.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
11
12 CUltUre & events<br />
If you can manage to tear yourself away from the fashion<br />
and sport channels to which the TVs in Sofia’s cafes and<br />
bars seem permanently tuned, there is a huge amount of<br />
high-quality culture awaiting your enjoyment. Tickets for<br />
all events are extremely affordable by western standarts,<br />
so there’s really no excuse for giving such a rich cultural<br />
menu a miss.<br />
Art galleries<br />
Art Gallery Paris B-4, ul. Parizh 8, tel. 980 80 93, info@<br />
gallery-paris.com, www.gallery-paris.com. Charming little<br />
gallery representing younger-generation <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n artists,<br />
especially those working in expressive, figurative styles.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Galeria Akademia B-4, ul. Shipka 1, tel. 987 81 77.<br />
Prestige group shows in the gallery of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Academy<br />
of Fine Arts. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Goethe-<strong>In</strong>stitut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939<br />
01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www.<br />
goethe.de/sofia. Challenging and off-beat contemporary<br />
art shows, in the German cultural centre. QOpen , Mon,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
GreenCat Gallery C-5, ul. Varbiza 6, tel. 0886 154<br />
526, n.maneva@greencatgallery.com, www.greencatgallery.com.<br />
Krug + B-4, ul. Budapeshta 5, tel. 988 25 79. Cuttingedge<br />
work in one of Sofia’s coolest spaces. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Lessedra D-3, ul. Milin kamak 25, tel. 865 04 28,<br />
georgi@lessedra.com, www.lessedra.com. Dealership<br />
with contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and international art<br />
on show. Specializes in prints and graphics, with a good<br />
selection of items for sale. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Maksim B-2, ul. Lom 11, tel. 988 10 62. Contemporary<br />
work by leading <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n painters and sculptors, in a<br />
beautiful split-level space. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Rakursi C-3, ul. Han Krum 4A, tel. 981 26 17, gallery@<br />
rakursi.com, www.rakursi.com. Small private gallery<br />
specializing in contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n art, representing sizeable<br />
stable of established and emerging artists. Extensive<br />
collection of paintings, graphics, photographs and sculptures<br />
at all prices. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Sculpture park G-8, ul. Aleksandur Zhendov 2, tel.<br />
948 20 36, culturalinstitute@mfa.government.bg,<br />
www.sic.mfa.government.bg. <strong>In</strong> the Sculpture park outside<br />
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, over 90 works created<br />
by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n sculptors from the 1930’s until the present<br />
days, are displayed along with other monuments. QOpen<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Shipka 6 B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 846 71 13, fax 946 02<br />
12, info@sbhart.com, www.sbhart.com. Located in the<br />
upper storeys of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Artists’ Union building, this<br />
hosts a wide variety of shows by artists from <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and<br />
beyond. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Sibank Galeria B-3, ul. Slavyanska 2, tel. 939 92 80.<br />
Tucked away behind the National Theatre in the headquarters<br />
of a major bank, this gallery concentrates on big names<br />
from the contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n art world. Expect the kind<br />
of head-scratching installations and conceptual works that<br />
are in short supply elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 15:00 - 19:00.<br />
Tea E-2, ul. Dimitar Hadzhikotsev 10, tel. 865 84 26.<br />
Contemporary paintings for sale, and frequent one-off exhibitions<br />
by the more off-the-wall artists. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n symbol<br />
Tsarevets - Kings On The Hill<br />
The hill of Tsarevets is a famous landmark in Veliko Tarnovo<br />
and one of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n symbols. It holds the memory for<br />
the capital of the Second <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom and the great<br />
Tsar Kaloyan. Within its stone walls used to be the castle<br />
of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n kings, his “bolyari” (who were the nobles,<br />
next to the king) and the patriarch, who was the head of<br />
the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n church. Only one of its towers remains to this<br />
day. It is called the Tower of Baldwin the First (no connection<br />
with the notorious brothers) because the Latin Emperor<br />
was held prisoner there and found his death, by jumping<br />
from it, as the legend says. He fell captive after the big<br />
battle of Adrianople in 1205 when Tsar Kaloyan defeated<br />
the knights of the Fourth Crusade.<br />
The ruins of Tsarevets reveal a densely inhabited medieval<br />
city with numerous buildings of various purposes.<br />
Some parts of it have been restored, including the church<br />
“Ascension of Christ”, which crowns the top of the hill.<br />
To commemorate the glory of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom, a<br />
spectacular “Sound And Light” show with colourful lights,<br />
lasers and music is held on a regular basis. It presents<br />
the different periods in the history of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and is a<br />
unique experience for tourists and locals.<br />
The Hill of Tsarevets is open for visitors from 08:00 to<br />
19:00 from April to September and from 09:00 to 17:00<br />
from October to March. The local historical museum offers<br />
guided tours in English, French, German, Russian, Spanish<br />
and Greek Language. For <strong>In</strong>formation and reservations<br />
call: 062 638 841, 0885 105 282, 0885 105 275. Admission<br />
fee is 6Lv, the guided tour is 30Lv.<br />
photo Regional Historical Museum V.Tarnovo<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
The Red House (Chervenata kashta) C-4, ul. Lyuben<br />
Karavelov 15, tel. 988 81 88, info@redhouse-sofia.org,<br />
www.redhouse-sofia.org. An early twentieth-century mansion<br />
now serving as a cutting-edge cultural centre for Sofia’s<br />
arty set. There’s a meaty menu of exhibitions, small-scale<br />
concerts, video screenings and drama. QOpen 15:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Arena Zapad F-7, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 64, tel. 920<br />
99 99, www.kinoarena.com. Biggest of the multiplexes,<br />
with 15 screens, on-site pizzeria, ice cream parlour and more.<br />
Near the Vardar metro station. Another branch at H-8, Mladost-4,<br />
Business Park Sofia. Q (7-12Lv). PK<br />
Cinema City B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101, tel.<br />
981 19 11, fax 981 57 77, marketing@cinemacity.bg,<br />
www.cinemacity.bg. State-of-the-art multiscreen in the Mall<br />
of Sofia shopping complex, surrounded by fast-food outlets<br />
and other places to spend your money. Also includes the Mtel<br />
Imax cinema, where you can sit back in your 3-D spectacles<br />
and have your brain scrambled by the twenty-four-metre-wide<br />
screen. Q (7-12Lv). P<br />
Cineplex D-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 964 30 07, www.<br />
cineplex.bg. Nine-screen cinema on the top floor of the City<br />
Center Sofia shopping mall. Not too far from the city centre,<br />
and with loads of eating and drinking opportunities in the mall<br />
itself. Q (6-12Lv). P<br />
Euro Cinema B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17, tel.<br />
980 41 61, fx_cin@hotmail.com. Well-chosen menu of classy<br />
European flicks and non-mainstream choices. Q (4-5Lv).<br />
House of Cinema (Dom na kinoto) A-3, ul. Ekzarh<br />
Yosif 37, tel. 980 39 11. This is the place for the real movie<br />
buffs. If it won a prize at an obscure European festival, it will<br />
probably be shown here. Q (6-7 Lv).<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
CUltUre & events<br />
Ticket offices<br />
National Palace of Culture D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel.<br />
916 63 69. QOpen 8:00 – 19:00<br />
Orange music store B-3, Orange Center, 2nd floor,<br />
ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 985 41 41, orangemusic@<br />
netbg.com. Qopen 9:00 – 21:00<br />
Ticketstream B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 981 38<br />
59, www.ticketstream.bg. QOpen: 9:30 – 18:00<br />
Kino Vlaykova C-5, ul. Tsar Ivan Asen 11, tel. 944 39<br />
23. An old-fashioned, single-screen cinema in the leafy Ivan<br />
Asen district, screening a mixture of art films and Hollywood<br />
flicks. The cinema’s bar also serves as local pub and snooker<br />
hall. Q (3-5Lv).<br />
Odeon C-1, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 989 24 69. Showing<br />
old movies and nothing else, this is a great place to sit<br />
back and enjoy a big-screen nostalgia-fest. Q (4-6 Lv).<br />
Music, opera and ballet<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Hall (Zala <strong>Bulgaria</strong>) B-3, ul. Aksakov 1, tel.<br />
987 76 56. Home of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n philharmonic, this is the<br />
top place in the country for symphonic concerts. QOpen .<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. Open 10:30-13:00, 15:00-18:00 Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Music Centre Boris Hristov B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 43,<br />
tel. 987 35 92, boris_chrisoff@abv. The house of the<br />
famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n opera singer is an art centre housing a<br />
rich museum collection as well as a stage for young talents -<br />
musicians, opera singers, artists, actors. A spacious concert<br />
hall is arranged with a gorgeous grand piano. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
13
14 CUltUre & events<br />
National Musical Theatre B-5, ul. Panayot Volov 2,<br />
tel. 944 50 85, fax 944 13 42, operetta@otel.net, www.<br />
musictheatre.bg. Best known for operetta and musicals,<br />
but occasionally features dance performances too. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Tickets: tel. 943 19 79<br />
National Opera and Ballet B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel.<br />
987 13 66, fax 980 91 22, sfopera@geobiz.net, www.<br />
operasofia.bg. The jewel in Sofia’s cultural crown, featuring<br />
the best local artistes and guesting prima donnas from<br />
abroad. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00.<br />
Tickets: tel. 987 13 66<br />
National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets<br />
na kulturata - NDK) D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 916 68<br />
30, fax 865 70 53, drumev@ndk.bg, www.ndk.bg.<br />
Mammoth-sized cultural centre with a 3800-seater main<br />
hall and numerous smaller concert spaces. Hosts all kinds of<br />
high-profile musical events. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sun. Tickets: tel. 916 63 69<br />
National Opera and Ballet<br />
January<br />
08.01 19:00 Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme<br />
09.01 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
10.01 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
11.01 16:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
18.01 16:00 Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme<br />
23.01 19:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />
19:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />
Scheherazade<br />
24.01 19:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />
19:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />
Scheherazade<br />
25.01 16:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />
16:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />
Scheherazade<br />
29.01 19:00 M.Theodorakis ballet Zorba the Greek<br />
30.01 19:00 Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme<br />
31.01 19:00 Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko<br />
19:00 Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet<br />
Scheherazade<br />
February<br />
13.02 19:00 100 years from the establishment of<br />
the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Opera Fellowship<br />
14.02 19:00 <strong>In</strong> the embrace of the cello concert<br />
of Svetlozar Radukanov<br />
15.02 16:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake<br />
Theatres<br />
Aleko Konstantinov Satirical Theatre (Satirichen<br />
teatar) B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 26, tel. 987 66 06, satirata@slovo.bg.<br />
Comedies both classical and modern.<br />
Beyond the Canal (Malak gradski teatar “Zad<br />
kanala”) G-8, bul. Madrid 1, tel. 846 20 20, mgt@abv.<br />
bg, www.theatreoffthechannel.org. Studio theatre offering<br />
anything from small-scale contemporary productions to film<br />
projections and jazz gigs.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Army Theatre (Teatar Bulgarska<br />
armiya) B-4, ul. Rakovski 98, tel. 987 23 03, tba@<br />
art.bg, www.art.bg/tba. High quality classical and contemporary<br />
drama.<br />
Ivan Vazov National Theatre (Naroden teatar)<br />
B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 5, tel. 811 92 19, fax 987 70<br />
66, info@nationaltheatre.bg, www.nationaltheatre.bg.<br />
Sofia’s grandest thespians tread the boards.<br />
17.02 19:00 Gala performance - 75 years from<br />
the birth of the singer Stoyan Popov<br />
18.02 16:00 Coppélia ballet in two acts<br />
19.02 19:00 Coppélia ballet in two acts<br />
26.02 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake<br />
March<br />
07:03 19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />
08.03 16:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />
10.03 19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />
12.03 19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Sleeping<br />
Beauty<br />
13.03 19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />
15.03 16:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte<br />
20.03 19:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco<br />
21.03 19:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco<br />
22.03 16:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco<br />
25-28.03 10:00, 11:30, 19:00<br />
Shegobishko on the Wonders Island<br />
(Child education program)<br />
29.03 16:00 Miroslav Danev ballet Legend for<br />
Sibin, the knyaz of Preslav<br />
Performances take place at National Opera and Ballet<br />
B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel. 987 13 66. More info at www.<br />
operasofia.bg<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns<br />
Khan Krum-The Sober And The Merciless. The<br />
name of Khan Krum evokes national pride and fear in the<br />
delinquent ones. He started his rule in the year 803 with a<br />
serious territorial enlargement, adding Transylvania to the<br />
lands of the First <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Kingdom. Feeling threatened<br />
by the ambitious neighbours, the Byzantine Emperor<br />
Nicephorus I started two consecutive campaigns against<br />
Khan Krum. Declining all peace offers by the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Khan, he conquered and pillaged Krum’s capital Pliska,<br />
drowning <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n lands in blood. However, his triumph<br />
was pretty short, because on the way back to Constantinople<br />
in the summer of year 811, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns and Slavs,<br />
led by Khan Krum himself, ambushed and vanquished<br />
the Byzantine army. The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n ruler spared all prisoners<br />
and sent them back to their families. Nicephorus<br />
I was not as lucky, because he died at the beginning of<br />
the battle and ended up on the kitchen shelf, as Khan<br />
Krum made a cup of his skull, and used it extensively for<br />
proposing toasts at glorious court parties. What did he<br />
pour into the cup is unknown, as he was a really mean<br />
sobriety activist - he destroyed all the vine plants in his<br />
lands. He also cut the tongues of liars and broke the<br />
shinbones of the thieves. These rules were carved in<br />
stone and obeyed by both Slavs and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, and are<br />
recognized as the first written legislation in the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Kingdom and also the first serious step in the unification<br />
of the two major <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n ethnic groups. Khan Krum<br />
also made a new administrative division of the kingdom<br />
and took away Thracia’s sovereignty. Krum died from a<br />
heart attack in 814 under the walls of Constantinople,<br />
but first he pillaged the European part of the Byzantine<br />
Empire and tortured the capital’s citizens with all types<br />
of siege weapons and the good old shock of public and<br />
pagan human sacrifices.<br />
Ralitsa Vassileva-Those Blue<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Eyes. If you have<br />
ever watched CNN, you know for<br />
sure who Ralitsa Vassileva is. The<br />
blue-eyed news reporter with a<br />
name too hard to pronounce, has<br />
been on air for seventeen years<br />
already. Most of you may not know<br />
it, but she is from Sofia and started<br />
working as a news anchor in 1992,<br />
two years after she started working<br />
as a reporter for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n National<br />
Television. She has interviewed numerous celebrities and<br />
important politicians, among which Mikhail Gorbachev<br />
and Henry Kissinger. Watching a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n present the<br />
world news has always made us <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns feel a little<br />
better and important.<br />
Sfumato Theatre Workshop (Teatralna rabotilnitsa<br />
Sfumato) G-8, ul. Dimitar Grekov 2, tel. 944 01<br />
27, fax 943 39 35, sfumato@mbox.contact.bg, www.<br />
sfumato.info. On-the-edge experimental theatre from an<br />
internationally renowned company.<br />
Tears and Laughter (Salza i smyah) B-4, ul. Rakovski<br />
127, tel. 987 58 95, fax 987 36 14, office@salzaismiah.<br />
com, www.salzaismiah.com. Quality, often challenging work<br />
from Sofia’s oldest drama company.<br />
Theatre 199 B-4, ul. Slavyanska 8, tel. 987 85 33, fax<br />
988 53 19, theatre199@infotel.bg, www.theatre199.<br />
org. Top place for contemporary studio performances. Gets<br />
the name from its 199 seats.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
CUltUre & events<br />
The Martenitsa – Celebrating<br />
Spring <strong>In</strong> Red And White<br />
The first day of March marks<br />
the beginning of the colourfull<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n tradition of<br />
wearing martenitsas. These<br />
decorative tassels are worn<br />
by old and young, men and<br />
women and even animals.<br />
It is believed that they bring<br />
good health and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns<br />
wear them from the first of March, until a stork or a swallow<br />
is seen, and then the martenitsa should be tied to a blossoming<br />
tree. They are traditionally red and white, as the<br />
colour white symbolizes purity and the soul and red stands<br />
for life and passion, but all other additional colours are fully<br />
acceptable as a further decoration. Generally, even a Mickey<br />
Mouse pin with the red and white tassels is considered<br />
a martenitsa, but the traditional one is just with the two<br />
tassels, named Pizho and Penda. The legend traces the<br />
origins of the martenitsas to the founder of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, khan<br />
Asparuh and his brothers and sisters, who communicated<br />
with threads, tied to the legs of falcons. As Asparuh’s brother<br />
Bayan was sending a bird, he got mortally wounded and his<br />
blood stained the white thread, making it the first ever martenitsa,<br />
which was given by the khan to his soldiers.<br />
As usual, all friends, relatives and colleagues present<br />
each other martenitsas on March 1 st by saying“ Chestita<br />
Baba Marta”, as the first month of spring is believed<br />
to be a grumpy old woman with wild mood swings, just<br />
as the weather in March. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns wear them all over<br />
the world and you can wear them too, if you want to be<br />
healthier this spring.<br />
Name days<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, one’s name day is considered as important as<br />
a birthday. It is customary to buy treats for family members<br />
and colleagues. Take note of the dates below and ingratiate<br />
yourself with any <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns you meet by buying them a<br />
shot of rakia on their name day. Either that, or exploit your<br />
own by getting lashings of free drinks from your friends and<br />
acquaintances. When in Rome and all that.<br />
• 1st January – Vasilyovden - Vasil, Vasilena, Veselin,<br />
Vasko, Vesela<br />
• 6th January – Yordanovden (St. Jordan’s day) – Yordan,<br />
Yordanka, Dancho, Danka, Bozhan, Bozhana, Dana,<br />
Bogdan, Bogdana.<br />
• 7th January – Ivanovden - Ivan, Ivanka, Vanya, Yoan,<br />
Yoana, Yova, Zhan, Zhana<br />
• 17th January – Antonovden – Anton, Andon, Antoniya,<br />
Toncho, Tonka<br />
• 18th January – Atanasovden - Atanas, Atanaska,<br />
Tanas, Naso, Nasya<br />
• 1st February – Trifonovden - Trifon, Trifonka<br />
• 10th February- St. Haralampi – Haralampi, Valentin,<br />
Valentina<br />
• 13th February – Evlogi, Zoya<br />
• 1st March – Marta, Martin, Evdokia<br />
• 4th March – Gerasim<br />
• 9th March -The Holy 40th Martyrs - Mladen, Mladenka<br />
• 10th March – Galya, Galin, Galina<br />
• 19th March – Daria, Nayden, Nayda<br />
• 25th March – Blagoveshtenie (the Annunciation) – Blagovest,<br />
Blagovesta, Blagoy, Blaga, Evangelina, Vangel<br />
• 28th March – Albena, Boyan, Boyko, Boyka<br />
January - March 2009<br />
15
16 CUltUre & events<br />
Rock and pop<br />
Turn up the heat with some blistering guitar riffs and<br />
pounding thrash metal drums. The biggest names of<br />
extreme metal music are coming our way, along with some<br />
pop, love and progressive rockers…<br />
31.01 Samael, Keep of Kalessin, Noctiferia<br />
Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 30-35Lv<br />
Discover the darkest essence of evil music with these cult<br />
Black Metal Bands from Switzerland and Norway. Just don’t<br />
go burning churches, because in Sofia they are made of<br />
stone and are well guarded.<br />
06.02 Live From Buena Vista<br />
The Havana Lounge – Sofia, NDK Hall 1<br />
tickets: 20-70Lv<br />
We really doubt that any of the original Buena Vista Social<br />
Club is still alive, but the name, or should we call it “a<br />
brand” still sells, so if you are a sucker for Cuban music,<br />
it is your show.<br />
Sveti Trifon (St. Trifon)<br />
Sveti Trifon (St. Trifon) is known as the patron of the vineyards<br />
all over the Balkans . The holiday originates from the<br />
Dionisian Celebrations in ancient Greece. Early in the<br />
morning every wine-grower goes to his vineyard, turns to the<br />
east and makes the sign of the cross. Afterwards he cuts<br />
three sprigs from three different vines and waters the spot<br />
with wine, holy water and ash, kept from the Christmas fire.<br />
It is done for ensuring a rich harvest. These sprigs are kept<br />
in front of the icon in the house. <strong>In</strong> the evening all the men of<br />
the village sit together around the ritual table in the vineyards<br />
06.02 Sepultura<br />
Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 35Lv<br />
Anyone who has ever listened to metal music knows this<br />
name. The titans from Brazil are still strong, even without<br />
the Cavalera Brothers, who left the band to do whatever<br />
they want. We don’t care. The two new guys, along with<br />
the two original guitar players are still too good and heavy<br />
to be true. Tickets are limited…<br />
07.02 Sodom and Grave Digger<br />
Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv<br />
These ancient German thrash metallers have been torturing<br />
our ears and touring the world for almost 30 years. They<br />
sur vived hard trends and hard times, but will you survive<br />
their show along with the heroic power metal band Grave<br />
Digger?<br />
08.02 Kreator, Caliban, Eluveitie, Emergency Gate<br />
Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 35-45Lv<br />
Not enough Metal? Finish the triple thrash metal treat with<br />
the German veterans Kreator, who are as old as the Creator<br />
himself. See them play some classic German headbanging<br />
tunes along with the powerful youngsters Caliban. Then go<br />
sleep or see the doctor for your pierced eardrums.<br />
12.02 The Rasmus<br />
Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 30-40Lv<br />
These platinum-selling Finnish pop-rockers will show you the<br />
sensitive side of playing heavy music. Especially suitable<br />
for girls in black make up who love boys in black make up.<br />
And eagle feathers…<br />
21.02 Marillion<br />
Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 30-50Lv<br />
This classic progressive rock band from Britain will spread<br />
its artful sounds and messages in our capital. Although<br />
their enigmatic leader Fish is no longer in the band, they<br />
still can play tight and good.<br />
22.02 James Blunt<br />
Sofia, NDK Hall 1 tickets: 40-70Lv<br />
See if you are more beautiful than this best selling<br />
breakthrough artist. His sensitive songs will melt even the<br />
coldest hearts, so if anyone had any “love problems” around<br />
Christmas, then a ticket for this show should straighten<br />
them out for good.<br />
06.03 Lordi<br />
Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv<br />
After winning the Eurovision, these monstrous masked rockers<br />
from Finland will try to scare or please you with their metal<br />
sound. Just don’t bring little kids and grannies at this show.<br />
and celebrate the day with lots of wine. <strong>In</strong> some regions the<br />
men dig a hole in the middle of the the vineyard and bury a<br />
bottle of holy water in it for prevention of hailstorms.<br />
Nowadays the feast is also known as “Trifon the Drunkard”<br />
because of the large quantity of wine being drunk that day.<br />
It is celebrated mainly on 14 th February, although some<br />
people celebrate it on 1 st February according to the old<br />
calendar. But, of course, there are people celebrating the<br />
drinkers’ holiday on both of the days – the more holidays,<br />
the better.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Exhibitions<br />
The exhibition “The Cultural Revolution – A Road To<br />
Socialism, Russian Architectural Avant-garde in the<br />
1920s – 1930s” is in the National Gallery of Foreign<br />
Art from 05.11.2008 to 20.01.2009<br />
Until the 20th of January, you will have the last chance<br />
to see a very interesting exhibition in the National Gallery<br />
of Foreign Art. It consists of 119 different projects,<br />
blueprints, sketches, paintings and pictures, presenting<br />
the avant-garde of Russian Soviet architecture from the<br />
beginning of the 20th century, namely the twenties, just<br />
after the October revolution. Although the purpose of<br />
such megalomaniac building was to praise communism,<br />
some ideas and concepts are timeless and important,<br />
outside the political doctrine. Some of these projects<br />
remained on the architect’s desk, but others were built<br />
and will be there in the next two thousand years.<br />
The exhibition, named “I do not seek, I find - Pablo<br />
Picasso” is in the National Gallery of Foreign Art from<br />
17.11.2008 to 15.03.2009<br />
Some painters have become a symbol and an epitome<br />
of art, becoming immortal with their work. Such a symbol<br />
of modern art is Pablo Picasso, who is among the best<br />
and most famous people to pick a brush (and not only<br />
since he used all types of art expression). You can never<br />
be mistaken if you visit an exhibition of his works and fortunately,<br />
here in Sofia, the National Gallery of Foreign Art<br />
hosts a display of 86 works by this enigmatic superstar<br />
artist. 44 of these are graphics, 18 are ceramics and 24<br />
are paintings and prints. The most famous is the “Portrait<br />
of Paul” – his first born son. These works of art, being it<br />
crooked, strange to grasp, or just pure genius come from<br />
museums and private collections in Spain and will be on<br />
display until the 15th of March.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
CUltUre & events<br />
January - March 2009<br />
17
18 WHere to stay<br />
Sofia’s accommodation scene has been transformed by<br />
a rash of hotel building in recent years, and there is now<br />
a big choice in all categories. The advertised star ratings<br />
are reasonably accurate guide to quality in most cases,<br />
although they don’t always mean that all the rooms in<br />
particular establishment are up to the stated standard.<br />
Hotels invariably list their prices in euros, although you can<br />
pay the equivalent rate in leva if you wish.<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Grand Hotel Sofia B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 811 08 00,<br />
fax 811 08 01, reservations@grandhotelsofia.bg, www.<br />
grandhotelsofia.bg. Quality writ large. It is bang in the middle<br />
of town - on the doorstep of the National Theatre, the City Art<br />
Gallery, within walking distance from the <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Concert Hall<br />
and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The staff are professional<br />
from top to bottom, the rooms are huge, and the classy<br />
furnishings are built to last rather than just look good. The<br />
spacious bathrooms come with both bathtub and shower. The<br />
ground-floor Grand Cafe, facing out towards the City Garden,<br />
serves up some spectacular cakes. Q122 rooms (52 singles<br />
€150 - 235, 53 doubles €180 - 265, 17 suites €230 - 585).<br />
PTHARUFLEGKDW hhhhh<br />
Hilton D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 933 50 00, fax 933 51<br />
11, reservations.sofia@hilton.com, www.sofia.hilton.<br />
com. Enduringly popular choice with visiting businessfolk,<br />
with a handily central location and the attention-to-detail<br />
service that you would expect from the chain. Rooms come<br />
in a soothing combination of blues, yellows and greens, and<br />
the generously-proportioned bathrooms feature both shower<br />
cabin and bathtub (so you can wash yourself twice at the<br />
same time!). Guests have free use of pool and gym, and all<br />
rooms come with coffee and tea-making facilities. Q245<br />
rooms (singles €168 - 312, doubles €310 - 332, suites €486<br />
- 1200). PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Sofia H-8, bul. Aleksandar Malinov 111,<br />
tel. 807 07 07, fax 807 07 08, info@holidayinnsofia.<br />
bg, www.holidayinnsofia.bg. Dependable standards of<br />
5-star comfort and service from an experienced chain.<br />
Rooms feature flat-screen TVs, wireless internet and<br />
bathrooms with separate bath and shower. Located near<br />
the Mladost business park it’s a popular choice for business<br />
folk, and the centre of town is only a 20-minute taxi<br />
ride away. <strong>In</strong>ternational cuisine in the all-day Brasserie and<br />
<strong>In</strong>Canto restaurant provide excuses to linger on-site, as do<br />
the fully-equipped gym and 19-metre swimming pool. The<br />
range of conference facilities on offer make this a choice<br />
venue for hard-headed get-togethers. Q130 rooms<br />
(singles €70 - 115, doubles €90 - 135, suites €160 - 175).<br />
PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh<br />
Kempinski Hotel Zografski G-7, bul. Dzheims<br />
Baucher 100, tel. 969 22 22, fax 969 22 23, kempinski.zografski@kempinski.com,<br />
www.kempinski.bg.<br />
Five-star comforts can be taken for granted here, although<br />
the hulking, high-rise nature of the place will not suit those<br />
who want a cosy intimate retreat. Rooms are currently<br />
decorated in onyx-blue and green, although some floors<br />
are being gradually refitted in beige. Now part of a German<br />
chain, the Zografski was originally built by Japanese investors<br />
in the 1980s, and you’ll still find a few uniquely oriental<br />
touches here - notably the Japanese garden centered on<br />
the pavilion-style Sakura restaurant. Q442 rooms (90<br />
singles €260, 90 doubles €280, 15 suites €410 - 430, 1<br />
Presidential apartment €1920 - 1940, 2 Vice Presidential<br />
apartments €970 - 990, 244 Double delux €300 - 320).<br />
PHARFLKDC hhhhh<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms<br />
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection<br />
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie<br />
4, tel. 933 43 34, fax 933 43 35, info.sofia@radissonsas.<br />
com, www.sofia.radissonsas.com. Occupying the prime<br />
site opposite <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s parliament and the Aleksandar Nevski<br />
Memorial Church, the Radisson offers the kind of understated<br />
luxury that the chain is famous for: soothing colours, deepmattressed<br />
beds, classy marble-floored bathrooms (featuring<br />
both bathtub and shower), and electric kettles in every room.<br />
Standard rooms on the south side of the building are perfectly<br />
adequate, but it’s the business class doubles and junior suites<br />
on the north side that come with fabulous views of Narodno sabranie<br />
square. Notwithstanding the surrounding nightlife (both<br />
Flannnagans Pub and the London Casino are on the ground floor<br />
of the same building), the hotel itself is nicely quiet. Q133<br />
rooms (singles €130 - 205, doubles €156 - 220, suites €260 -<br />
290). POHARUFLGKDW hhhhh<br />
Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya<br />
5, tel. 981 65 41, fax 980 64 64, sofia.reservations@<br />
luxurycollection.com, www.luxurycollection.com/sofia.<br />
Sofia’s longest-established luxury hotel, and part of the<br />
Sheraton chain for a decade and a half, this urban landmark in<br />
the heart of downtown Sofia combines traditional five-star frills<br />
with high-tech amenities. The building itself is a showpiece of<br />
1950s architectural style, featuring sweeping staircases, long<br />
and spacious corridors, and chandeliers on every floor. “Classic”<br />
rooms are contemporary in style with blue and orange decor<br />
and classy bathrooms. “Executive” rooms boast near-antique<br />
furniture, flat-screen TVs and coffee-and-tea-making facilities.<br />
Spacious ground-floor lobby areas and a chic cafe-restaurant<br />
provide the icing on the cake. Q188 rooms (singles €310<br />
- 355, doubles €320 - 370, apartments €420 - 435). PO�<br />
HARUFLGKDW hhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Anel B-2, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 14, tel. 911 99 00, fax<br />
911 97 61, hotelanel@hotelanel.com, www.hotelanel.<br />
com. if you want to stay in a top-class hotel, which has more<br />
character than the international chains, then this modern<br />
building on the fringes of downtown Sofia just about fits<br />
the bill. It’s stuffed to the gills with contemporary <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
paintings and sculptures and has the feel of a top international<br />
gallery when you first cross the threshold. The rooms<br />
themselves come in bold blues and browns, and there’s an<br />
exotic on-site Spa centre with a water-surrounded café-bar approached<br />
by bridge. Q58 rooms (8 singles €270, 31 doubles<br />
€290, 18 apartments €320 - 370, 1 Presidential apartment).<br />
PTHARUFGKDCW hhhhh<br />
Art ‘Otel C-2, ul. Gladston 44, tel. 980 60 00, fax 981 19<br />
09, office@artotel.biz, www.artotel.biz. A joint <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-<br />
Spanish project occupying a re-vamped 1930s apartment block.<br />
Fine textures, unusual shapes, leather furniture, fireplaces and a<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
smattering of contemporary paintings justify the hotel’s name.<br />
Just a block away from bul. Vitosha, the location is as central as<br />
they come, and some rooms on the upper storeys come with<br />
excellent roof-level views of the surrounding cityscape. Q22<br />
rooms (5 singles €105 - 145, 10 doubles €110 - 150, 3 suites<br />
€155 - 160). PHARLKD hhhh<br />
Best Western Hotel City B-4, ul. Stara planina 6, tel.<br />
915 15 00, fax 986 20 00, info@sofiacityhotel.com,<br />
www.sofiacityhotel.com. Relatively new structure with spacious<br />
modern rooms, and the range of services that you would<br />
expect from a four-star. Rooms are smart and shipshape and<br />
the staff members are eager to please. And it couldn’t be<br />
better placed for Sofia’s historical centre. Q61 rooms (10<br />
singles €119, 42 doubles €130 - 150, 9 suites €180 - 240).<br />
PTHARLGBKDW hhhh<br />
Best Western Hotel Europe G-8, ul. Liditse 1, tel. 970 15<br />
00, fax 970 15 11, info@hotel-europe-bg.com, www.hoteleurope-bg.com.<br />
Contemporary building in a suburban street<br />
offering rooms decorated in cheerful citrus-fruit colours. Some<br />
have large bathrooms with bathtubs, although you can’t always<br />
bank on getting one of these. The top floor Sky Bar has fantastic<br />
views west towards the city and south towards Mount Vitosha.<br />
Q42 rooms (18 singles €110 - 125, 18 doubles €130 - 145, 6<br />
suites €160 - 185). PTARFLBKW hhhh<br />
Best Western Hotel Expo G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />
149, tel. 817 81, fax 974 30 90, reservations@hotelexposofia.com,<br />
www.hotelexposofia.com. Located mid-way<br />
between the airport and the city centre, this is an elegant<br />
business hotel with a state-of-the-art interior and impeccable<br />
staff. Expect modern design touches and arty pictures in<br />
the rooms. The only problem is that it’s located in a rather<br />
non-descript part of town, so don’t expect a beautiful view.<br />
Q99 rooms (singles €98-127, doubles €108-138, suites<br />
€177 - 197). POHARLGKW hhhh<br />
Casa Boyana G-6, ul. Ivanitza Dantchev 23, Boyana,<br />
tel. 805 08 00, fax 805 08 05, hotel@casaboyana.com,<br />
www.casaboyana.com. Brand-new boutique-style hotel in<br />
the mountain-side suburb of Boyana, close to the National<br />
History Museum and with great city-facing views from the<br />
windows of its restaurant. Rooms come with Italian furniture,<br />
bold colours and swanky bathrooms, and the attention-todetail<br />
staff are as helpful as can be. Q16 rooms (7 singles<br />
€105 - 115, 7 doubles €105 - 125, 2 suites €145 - 165).<br />
PAUFLKDW hhhh<br />
Central B-2, bul. Hristo Botev 52, tel. 981 23 64, fax<br />
986 45 61, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com.<br />
A relatively new hotel in a convenient downtown<br />
location, this is reasonably good value for the facilities on<br />
offer. Rooms are decorated in modern, functional style; most<br />
have showers rather than full-size bathtubs. Q28 rooms<br />
(12 singles €65 - 95, 13 doubles €80 - 110, 3 apartments<br />
€120 - 175). PJHAREGKDW hhh<br />
Central Forum G-7, bul. Tsar Boris III 41, tel. 954 44 44,<br />
fax 954 33 33, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com.<br />
Recently renovated block in a part-residential,<br />
part-commercial area about 1km southwest of the downtown<br />
action. The rooms are not all that spacious but come in stressreducing<br />
creamy colours. Unusually for what claims to be a four<br />
star, most rooms come with shower, so you’ll need to fork out<br />
for a “luxury” room if you need to soak in a real bathtub. On the<br />
plus side we were rather excited to see electric kettles in some<br />
of the rooms - something of a first for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Q51 rooms<br />
(33 singles €65 - 95, 12 doubles €80 - 110, 6 apartments<br />
€120 - 140). PHARLKD hhhh<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHere to stay<br />
Еlate Plaza Hotel<br />
Mladost 1, So� a<br />
corner of Aleksander Malinov Blvd<br />
& Andrey Sakharov Blvd<br />
phone 974 4948, 0886 83 12 82<br />
sales@elateplaza.com,<br />
www.elateplaza.com<br />
Central Park Hotel C-2, bul. Vitosha 106, tel. 805 88<br />
88, fax 805 87 87, reservations@centralparkhotel.bg,<br />
www.centralparkhotel.bg. This newish 4-star hotel enjoys<br />
an enviable city-centre location right in front of the National<br />
Palace of Culture and a stone’s throw from the main shopping,<br />
eating and drinking areas. The rooms are comfortable and<br />
well-equipped, most coming with views of the nearby park<br />
and (in some cases) Mount Vitosha in the distance. The<br />
restaurant does a good line in modern European cuisine,<br />
complemented by a strong selection of wines. A full range of<br />
business services and secretarial assistance is offered by<br />
the business center. Q77 rooms (37 singles €165 - 170, 37<br />
doubles €170 - 185, 3 suites €240 - 260). PJHAR�<br />
LGKW hhhh<br />
Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel B-5, ul. Shipka 14,<br />
tel. 948 94 88, fax 948 94 90, reservations@crystalpalace-sofia.com,<br />
www.crystalpalace-sofia.com. The<br />
Crystal Palace emerged somewhat controversially from the<br />
conversion of a nineteenth-century apartment block, which<br />
involved mounting a huge glass-and-steel superstructure<br />
on top of the historic building. Conservation issues aside,<br />
it’s one of the best hotels in the city as far as service and<br />
elegance are concerned, offering sunny, spacious rooms<br />
with repro furniture and all the creature comforts. The<br />
health-and-fitness club, moodily lit and decorated in coffee<br />
and cinnamon shades, is the ideal place to wind down after<br />
a hard day spent closing deals. Q63 rooms (singles €160,<br />
doubles €180 - 200, suites €240 - 260). PHARF�<br />
GKDW hhhh<br />
Dedeman Sofia Princess F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 131, tel.<br />
933 88 88, fax 933 87 77, sofia@dedeman.com, www.<br />
dedeman.com/Sofia.aspx. If you’re the kind of person for<br />
whom size matters then the Princess is probably your kind of<br />
place. It’s the biggest hotel in Sofia, it also boasts the biggest<br />
casino in the Balkans - so it’s the perfect place to throw your<br />
money away in lavish style. Rich colours, tasseled curtains<br />
and fluffy cushions give the rooms a satisfyingly luxuriant<br />
feel. Q 601 rooms (singles €87 - 96, doubles €107 - 116,<br />
apartments €152 - 230). POHARUFLGKCW<br />
hhhh<br />
Greenville Hotel & Apartment Houses G-7, ul.<br />
Atanas Dukov 36, tel. 819 19 19, fax 819 19 18, hotel@greenville-sofia.com,<br />
www.greenville-sofia.com. A<br />
3-building complex set in leafy parkland south of the centre,<br />
offering a mixture of standard rooms and studio apartments.<br />
The rooms are light and luxurious, with flower bouquets<br />
and oil paintings adding a homely touch. Q113 rooms<br />
(singles €160 - 180, doubles €180 - 200, suites €240).<br />
PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh<br />
Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel B-2, bul. Vitosha 21, tel.<br />
810 08 00, fax 810 08 01, office@lesfleurshotel.com,<br />
www.lesfleurshotel.com. A style-conscious boutique hotel<br />
in a prime downtown position, Les Fleurs looks as if it has<br />
jumped straight from the pages of an Italian interior design<br />
January - March 2009<br />
19
20 WHere to stay<br />
magazine. Artistic flair extends to every detail, from the floral<br />
motifs inlaid into the hardwood floorboards to the glass-bead<br />
table lamps, flat-screen TVs, and swish bathrooms with cylindrical<br />
shower cubicles. Balconied top floor rooms have great<br />
views of the city centre. All rooms are irregularly shaped, and<br />
the corridors bend their way across the building rather than<br />
leading directly from A to B. The dodgy-looking black uniforms<br />
worn by the front-of-house staff make up the only element<br />
of the hotel that doesn’t quite fit. Q31 rooms (14 singles<br />
€150 - 190, 15 doubles €160 - 200, 2 suites €250 - 290).<br />
PJAGKW hhhh<br />
Light A-3, ul. Veslets 37, tel. 917 90 90, fax 917 90 10,<br />
sofiahotel@light.bg, www.hotels.light.bg. Classy modern<br />
hotel in a quiet cobbled street that seems miles away from the<br />
bustle of central Sofia. The public areas are boldly contemporary<br />
but the rooms themselves have a chintzy cosiness - note<br />
however that some come with a shower cabinet while others<br />
have a nice big bathtub. Q31 rooms (10 singles €90 - 110,<br />
18 doubles €115 - 130, 2 suites €140 - 210, Studio: €170).<br />
PJHARFLKDW hhhh<br />
Maxi Park Hotel & Spa H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose<br />
110, tel. 892 00 00, fax 892 00 50, reservations@<br />
maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. If you want to<br />
stay in the middle of a fully-equipped leisure complex<br />
then you can’t go far wrong with the Olymp, plunked in the<br />
middle of a landscaped park dotted with swimming pools<br />
and gazebos. The rooms come in fresh colours and brave<br />
modern shapes, and many of them have good views of<br />
Mount Vitosha to the south. It’s a 15-minute drive to the<br />
city centre from here, but with a restaurant decorated in<br />
the style of a nineteenth-century Russian parlour, and a<br />
glass-roofed cafe area stuffed with potted plants, there’s<br />
plenty to explore on-site. Q62 rooms (singles €96, doubles<br />
€126, suites €180 - 220, studios €126 - 156). PHAR�<br />
FLGKDCW hhhh<br />
Park Hotel Vitosha H-8, ul. Rosario 1, tel. 816 88 88,<br />
fax 962 29 25, reservations@vitoshaparkhotel.com,<br />
www.vitoshaparkhotel.com. Brand-new Scandinavianstyle<br />
designer hotel full of light colours and nice wooden<br />
surfaces. Rooms are fitted with cooking facilities, and the<br />
on-site wellness amenities are perfect if you’re in need of<br />
a bit of pampering. <strong>In</strong> park-like surroundings on the southeastern<br />
edge of the city. Q170 rooms (60 singles €89, 80<br />
doubles €119, 24 suites €119 - 139, 6 Vip studios €100).<br />
PHARFLGKDCW hhhh<br />
Residence Oborishte G-8, ul. Oborishte 63, tel. 814<br />
48 88, fax 846 82 44, contact@residence-oborishte.<br />
com, www.residence-oborishte.com. Supremely comfortable<br />
and relaxing establishment made up almost entirely of<br />
two-room apartments, with warm rich colours predominating<br />
throughout. The just-married apartment with an inviting bathtub<br />
by the wide double bed almost had us rushing to the registry<br />
office. An informal make-yourself-at-home atmosphere<br />
adds to the welcoming feel. Q9 rooms (singles €90, doubles<br />
€100 - 120, suites €130 - 160, Junior Suite €120 - 150, King<br />
Suite €140 - 180). PARW hhhh<br />
SkyWay Hotel H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose 166A, tel.<br />
819 21 00, fax 819 21 99, sky@skywayhotel.com, www.<br />
skywayhotel.com. Brand-new hotel in a freshly-renovated<br />
building, located in the middle-class-dream neighbourhood of<br />
Simeonovo, close to Mt Vitosha. Connections to the airport<br />
are reasonably speedy, and the city-centre is a 15-minute taxi<br />
ride away. The social areas combine ultra-modern straight<br />
lines with ethnic garden furniture and house plants. Rooms<br />
are decorated in bold colours and are almost spacious<br />
Hotel Avalon<br />
El Tepe No. 4,<br />
Bansko 2700<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
Tel (00359) 74988399<br />
Fax (00359) 74988398<br />
www.avalonhotel-bulgaria.com<br />
enough to play a round of golf in. There’s a cosy on-site<br />
restaurant and a business centre with PCs and free internet<br />
connection. Q85 rooms (79 doubles €115 - 130, 5 apartments<br />
€170 - 190, 1 Presidential apartment €220 - 240).<br />
PHAUFGKW hhhh<br />
Sofia Plaza F-7, bul. Hristo Botev 154, tel. 813 79<br />
79, fax 813 79 12, office@hotelsofiaplaza.com, www.<br />
hotelsofiaplaza.com. It’s about time there was a comfortable<br />
mid-price hotel in the vicinity of Sofia’s main railway<br />
station, and Sofia Plaza seems to fit the bill. Its 50 rooms<br />
have been squeezed into what is essentially a tall thin building,<br />
but the result is cosy rather than cramped. The rooms<br />
themselves feature blue carpets, peachy furnishings and<br />
fabrics, TV, minibar, and enough desk-space on which to park<br />
the average laptop. Apartments come with kitchenettes and<br />
extra fold-down beds. Q50 rooms (46 doubles €80 - 110,<br />
suites €200, 2 apartments €210 - 250, 2 Studio: €130).<br />
PHARFKDW hhhh<br />
Sveta Sofia A-2, ul. Pirotska 18, tel. 983 50 33, fax<br />
983 17 23, marketing@hotelsvetasofia.com, www.<br />
hotelsvetasofia.com. A recently renovated nineteenthcentury<br />
building on a characterful, pedestrianized shopping<br />
street, this is as pleasant a downtown location as you’ll find.<br />
The rooms are decorated in bright blue and yellow, with light<br />
and comfortable bathrooms. Note that regular doubles have<br />
showers, “luxury” rooms come with proper bathtubs. Q76<br />
rooms (singles €90 - 130, doubles €100 - 140, triples €120,<br />
suites €160 - 170, Vip apartment €250). PJHAR�<br />
UFEKDW hhhh<br />
Triada G-8, ul. Venera 5, tel. 970 67 67, fax 970 67 10,<br />
info@hoteltriada.com, www.hoteltriada.com. Relatively<br />
new building offering big, light rooms decorated in different<br />
nuances of blue. The top-floor sky bar has excellent views of<br />
Sofia’s mountainous surroundings. The hotel offers perfect<br />
conditions for business meetings and seminars. Q62 rooms<br />
(9 singles €89 - 99, 48 doubles €119, 5 apartments €140 -<br />
150). PHARUFLKDW hhhh<br />
Tsarsko Selo bul. Simeonovsko Shose, tel. 816 01<br />
01/0899 914 493, www.tsarskoselo-bg.com. Found<br />
on the busy Ring Road at the foot of Vitosha mountain and<br />
about 20 min by car from the centre and from the cabin lift<br />
(depending on the traffic), this hotel complex is built on 50<br />
000 sq. m. featuring 3 apartment blocks and 8 villas among<br />
lush green areas with artificial lake with fish, tennis court,<br />
football field, outside swimming pool and even a chapel. The<br />
rooms and apartments, with kitchenette, are not too big,<br />
except for the Suite De Luxe which is huge. They are decorated<br />
in beige, green or crème colours and hold a king size<br />
or twin beds. The bathrooms are either with shower cabins<br />
or bathtubs and some hold a bidet. The junior suites come<br />
with private sauna for two or more... The hotel complex has<br />
a SPA centre with inside swimming pool, Jacuzzi, Finish and<br />
Herbal sauna, Turkish and steam bath, relax room, ice room,<br />
solarium, fitness hall, massage and cosmetic shops. This is<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
a preferred place for sports teams. Q156 rooms (singles<br />
€54 - 62, 132 doubles €67 - 75, 24 apartments €87 - 103, 2<br />
Presidential apartments €154). POTHAUFLB�<br />
KDW hhhh<br />
Vega Sofia Hotel G-8, bul. G. M. Dimitrov 75, tel.<br />
806 60 00, fax 806 60 09, sales@hotelvegasofia.<br />
bg, www.hotelvegasofia.bg. This swanky modern<br />
4-star lies 4km south of the centre, although its location<br />
at the intersection of broad boulevards ensures that you<br />
can speed in and out pretty effectively. Rooms feature<br />
coffee-coloured decor, neat modern bathrooms with tub,<br />
flat-screen TVs, and desks offering a reasonable amount<br />
of work space. Superior rooms and suites have small<br />
terraces and tea-and-coffee-making facilities. The spiral<br />
staircase, linking the lobby area to café and restaurant,<br />
adds style and sociability to the hotel’s public spaces. The<br />
state-of-the-art solarium, fitness centre, and massage<br />
facilities are an additional major plus. Q77 rooms (singles<br />
€115 - 135, doubles €135, apartments €165 - 195).<br />
PHAUFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Alexander Palace H-7, ul. Nartsis 1, Dragalevtsi,<br />
tel. 967 11 84, fax 967 31 46, alexader_office@abv.<br />
bg, www.svetasofia-alexanders.com. A small-sized<br />
modern building in the mountainside suburb of Dragalevtsi,<br />
a 20-minute drive from the centre. Rooms are spacious and<br />
the staff seem like a cheerful, helpful bunch. If you want a<br />
relaxing, secluded out-of-town location, then this fits the<br />
bill. Q18 rooms (singles €26, doubles €26, suites €44).<br />
AFLKD hhh<br />
Arte B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 5, tel. 402 71 00,<br />
fax 402 71 09, reception@artehotelbg.com, www.<br />
artehotelbg.com. Opened towards the end of 2006. Arte<br />
occupies an excellent position on a central boulevard,<br />
but is well enough sound-insulated to ensure that Sofia’s<br />
notoriously screechy tramcars are unlikely to disturb your<br />
beauty sleep. The owner is a bit of an art collector, and<br />
the selection of modern <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n paintings adorning the<br />
hotel hallways and restaurant pretty much justify the establishment’s<br />
name. Rooms are contemporary in style, with<br />
white walls, flat-screen TVs, and terracotta- or chocolatecoloured<br />
accessories. Note that breakfast costs an extra<br />
€10 per person. Q25 rooms (3 singles €110, 10 doubles<br />
€120, 2 apartments €150 - 160, 10 double de-lux €130).<br />
PAGKW hhh<br />
Atlantic H-8, ul. 19-a 2, Simeonovo, tel. 961 34 00,<br />
fax 961 21 32, atlantic@mail.orbitel.bg, www.atlanticbg.com.<br />
Located in the relative seclusion of Simeonovo, a<br />
suburb on the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha, this extremely<br />
plush place braced by a pair of fancy turrets makes for an<br />
ideal out-of-town retreat. Bathrooms are on the small side<br />
but rooms are otherwise extremely cosy. The top-floor restaurant<br />
offers great views towards the city. Q17 rooms (6<br />
singles €50 - 55, 6 doubles €64 - 69, 8 apartments €75 - 95).<br />
HARFLKD hhh<br />
Bulgari A-2, ul. Pirotska 50, tel. 831 00 60, fax 931<br />
14 77, bulgarihotel@yahoo.com, www.bulgarihotel.<br />
net. Small and friendly spot in a picturesque, cobbledstreet<br />
quarter of old Sofia. The tangerine-coloured rooms<br />
are on the small side, but feature TV and, in most cases,<br />
a tiny desk too. Some bathrooms boast a bathtub, others<br />
have a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-style non-partitioned shower. If you<br />
can, try and reserve the ‘Melnik’ room on the top floor: its<br />
glass-covered balcony has the feel of a conservatory but<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHere to stay<br />
comes with skyline-level views. Breakfast is served on glasstopped<br />
tables filled with seashells. The hotel is gay-friendly.<br />
Q13 rooms (12 doubles €85, 1 apartment €160 - 210).<br />
PJARGW hhh<br />
Casa Ferrari Bed and Breakfast C-1, ul. Lulin<br />
Planina 16, tel. 0898 43 67 00, fax 980 84 14, info@<br />
casaferrari.com, www.casaferrari.com. This centrally<br />
located small hotel is situated on a quiet street within walking<br />
distance of Sofia’s main tourist attractions. Decorated<br />
with classic Italian furnishings, an atmosphere is produced<br />
combining luxury with relaxed charm. <strong>In</strong> addition to the three<br />
tastefully styled guest rooms, is a large, bright breakfast<br />
room, an ideal place for getting the day off to a good start, or<br />
reminiscing about your trip’s highlights. The married couple,<br />
who serve as your hosts, are congenial and very helpful in<br />
planning the most effective way to see the sights in Sofia.<br />
All-in-all, the Casa Ferrari is a very pleasant home away from<br />
home. Q3 rooms (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €95).<br />
PTJARG hhh<br />
Diter C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 65, tel./fax 989 89 98,<br />
hotel@diterhotel.com, www.diterhotel.com. Located in<br />
a sensitively-restored nineteenth-century house in a quiet<br />
but superbly central street, this is a real find. Rooms come<br />
in mood-enhancing blues and oranges and are equipped with<br />
minibar, TV and safe. Generous provision of desk space is a<br />
major plus, as is the provision of state-of-the-art massage<br />
nozzles in the shower cubicles. The T-shaped room no. 302<br />
(a single) will suit the idiosyncratic travellers down to the<br />
ground. Q21 rooms (7 singles €72 - 88, 12 doubles €98, 2<br />
suites €98 - 108). PARK hhh<br />
Elate Plaza<br />
Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksandar<br />
Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48,<br />
sales@elateplaza.com, www.elateplaza.com. Five<br />
minutes drive south from the airport in a residential neighbourhood<br />
this is a smallish comfy and charming hotel.<br />
Rooms come in different shapes and sizes, contemporary<br />
in style, decorated in wine-red, with light bathrooms.<br />
Suites have bathtubs. An informal make-yourself-at-home<br />
atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture.<br />
The fitness centre is an additional plus. Q19 rooms<br />
(5 singles €50 - 65, 10 doubles €60 - 80, 4 apartments<br />
€90 - 120). PHARUFLGKDW hhh<br />
Kapri G-8, ul. Han Omurtag 76, tel. 843 50 73, fax 944<br />
27 72, kapri@fog-bg.net, www.kapri-hotel.dir.bg. Mediumsized<br />
and rather intimate hotel in a quiet neighbourhood 2km<br />
east of the centre. Rooms are nicely kitted out in soothing pale<br />
greens and light brown furniture, but they’re a bit on the small<br />
side - the hotel is in a converted family house and everything<br />
seems a tight squeeze. Q20 rooms (8 singles €50, 11<br />
doubles €65, 1 apartment €80). PARKW hhh<br />
January - March 2009<br />
21
22 WHere to stay<br />
Kolikovski Hotel C-2, ul. Hristo Belchev 46, tel./fax<br />
980 95 69, hotel@kolikovski.com, www.kolikovski.com.<br />
Located on a cobbled street barely seconds away from bul.<br />
Vitosha, the Kolikovski makes an immediate impression with<br />
its sensuous colours and twenty-first-century-baroque design<br />
deatails. With dark purples and matt surfaces predominating,<br />
it makes a nice change from the pastel colours on offer<br />
elsewhere. Although primarily intended as a business hotel,<br />
it’s definitely the kind of place you would want to end up at<br />
after a successful date. Rooms are reasonably spacious<br />
and feature TV, minibar and desk space. The superior<br />
rooms also have an electric kettle. Q33 rooms (14 singles<br />
€100 - 125, 15 doubles €120 - 145, 4 suites €150 - 170).<br />
PTJHARUFLKW hhh<br />
Latinka G-8, ul. Latinka 28A, tel. 870 08 48, fax 870 08<br />
56, office@hotel-latinka-sofia.com, www.hotel-latinkasofia.com.<br />
Sleek and modern outside, comfy and charming<br />
within, this is an exceedingly good mid-range choice indeed.<br />
About 3km southeast of the centre, it’s only 5 minutes’ walk<br />
away from the huge expanse of greenery that is Borisova<br />
Gradina park. Rooms are decked out in mood-enhancing<br />
primary colours and come with telephone, cable TV, internet<br />
connection and mini-bar. Ask for one of the top-floor rooms<br />
with attic ceiling if you want a bit of atmosphere. Q26 rooms<br />
(10 singles €50 - 55, 15 doubles €70 - 75, 1 apartment €80).<br />
PALGKW hhh<br />
Legends G-7, bul. Cherni vrah 54-56, tel. 961 79 30, fax<br />
961 79 33, info@hotel-legends.bg, www.hotel-legends.<br />
bg. Situated in the Hladilnika district 4km south of the centre,<br />
Legends offers all the business-class comforts but has<br />
the added advantages of medum-sized-hotel intimacy and<br />
medium-range prices. The bronzy-brown rooms come with<br />
desk space and bath-tubs. An internet connection for your laptop<br />
costs an extra €5 per day. Despite the neighbourhood’s<br />
relative lack of decent bars and restaurants, transport links<br />
are good: trams no. 9 and no. 10 will whisk you into town,<br />
while bus no. 66 powers its way up to Aleko on Mt Vitosha.<br />
Q49 rooms (3 singles €64 - 74, 40 doubles €76 - 86, 2<br />
apartments €94 - 104, 4 Apartment houses €104 - 114).<br />
PALK hhh<br />
Lion A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 60, tel. 917 84 00, fax 917<br />
84 01, office@hotelslion.bg, www.hotelslion.bg. This<br />
stately nineteenth-century building overlooks a major road<br />
intersection mid-way between the train station and the centre,<br />
and is a great place from which to observe the constant<br />
pulse of pedestrians and traffic if you get a front-facing room.<br />
Many of the rooms have characterful architectural touches<br />
you won’t find elsewhere, with bay windows in some, arched<br />
windows in others. Décor is a bit hit and miss though: some<br />
rooms are inoffensively yellow, others have boldly stripy<br />
wall coverings. Q33 rooms (12 singles €65, 13 doubles<br />
€80, 1 apartment €110, 3 single luxury, 4 double luxury).<br />
PJARKW hhh<br />
Lozenetz E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 23, tel. 965 44 44, fax<br />
965 44 45, info@lozenetzhotel.com, www.lozenetzhotel.<br />
com. A contemporary building in a residential area just south<br />
of the city centre. Rooms are light and spacious, although<br />
some of the bathrooms are a tight squeeze. There is a small<br />
but relaxing garden attached to the restaurant. Q31 rooms<br />
(singles €62 - 74, doubles €85, suites €85, superior €68 - 80).<br />
PHARLGK hhh<br />
Meg Lozenetz D-3, ul. Krum Popov 84, tel. 965 19 70,<br />
fax 965 19 71, reservation@meg-lozenetz.com, www.<br />
meg-lozenetz.com. <strong>In</strong>viting mid-sized hotel in residential<br />
streets just south of the centre, near the City Center Sofia<br />
Out of town<br />
SPA Hotel Bankya Palace bul. Varna 70, Bankya,<br />
tel. 812 20 20, fax 997 70 64, hotel@bankyapalace.<br />
com, www.bankyapalace.com. The Bankya Palace<br />
was renovated in 2005 and some parts of it are really<br />
state-of-the-art. Rooms are not too spacious, but are<br />
light and decorated in fresh colours. Most bathrooms<br />
are with bathtubs. The on-site Spa centre offers a large<br />
number of superb remedial, recuperation and relaxation<br />
programs (including aromatherapy, chocolate or honey<br />
massage, wine-therapy and thalasso-therapy). The complex<br />
has its own bowling hall and a big outdoor swimming<br />
pool with mineral water. Q73 rooms (19 singles €42<br />
- 53, 41 doubles €53 - 69, 14 apartments €84 - 111).<br />
PHARUFLBKDCW hhhh<br />
shopping mall. The deep carpeted rooms are decorated in<br />
warm colours and come with a lot of desk space. They also<br />
come in irregular shapes, which makes a nice change from the<br />
perfect rectangles on offer elsewhere. The hotel restaurant<br />
looks semi-tropical with its rattan chairs, wooden decking<br />
and house-plants - appropriately enough, it is home to an<br />
enormous green parrot. Q17 rooms (4 singles €75 - 90, 5<br />
doubles €85 - 100, 4 triples €95 - 110, apartments €135 -<br />
150, 4 luxury €100 - 110). PARGKW hhh<br />
Renaissance B-2, pl. Vazrazhdane 2, tel. 957 11 12, fax<br />
957 18 52, renaissance@online.bg, www.renaissance.<br />
yes.bg. If you don’t mind a bit of kitsch you’ll quite like this<br />
place, with its loud colours, copper engravings of renaissance<br />
paintings and retro furniture. Panoramic view of Sofia from the<br />
top-floor terrace. Q29 rooms (14 singles €55, 14 doubles<br />
€65, 1 apartment €90). PHAKW hhh<br />
Scotty’s Boutique Hotel A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 11, tel.<br />
983 67 77, fax 983 32 29, scottyshotel@yahoo.com.<br />
Small, intimate but superbly central hotel in a renovated<br />
house with 16 individually-decorated, colour-coordinated<br />
rooms - the one with zebra-print bedspreads being one of<br />
our particular favourites. Bathrooms are roomier than most,<br />
although some come with showers rather than full-size tubs.<br />
Relaxed atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture.<br />
Gay-friendly. Q16 rooms (2 singles €55, 14 doubles €65 -<br />
95). PTARW hhh<br />
Budget<br />
Aris F-7, ul. Knyaz Boris 203, tel. 931 31 77, fax 931<br />
00 19, info@hotel-aris.com, www.hotel-aris.com. Tucked<br />
away in a quiet leafy street but perfectly placed for the train<br />
and bus stations, Aris is a welcome addition to Sofia’s growing<br />
range of civilized but cost-conscious hotels. Rooms are<br />
functional but comfortable, with soothing colour schemes,<br />
reasonably high ceilings, TVs and hairdryers. Apartments<br />
featuring fold-down sofa-beds are perfect for those travelling<br />
as a group or a family. Q18 rooms (12 doubles €55, 4 triples<br />
€66, 1 suite €66, 1 apartment €77). PJALW hhh<br />
Brod H-8, Simeonovsko shose 66, tel. 968 19 80, fax<br />
968 19 84, hotelbrod@yahoo.com, www.hotelbrod.com.<br />
A suburban hotel of recent construction offering excellent<br />
value in this price range. All rooms are neatly kitted out in<br />
a mixture of pastel and terracotta shades - “luxury” rooms<br />
have good-sized bathtubs, while others come with a simple<br />
shower unit. Simeonovsko shose itself is hardly Sofia’s most<br />
inspiring street, but you’ll feel quite at home here once the<br />
friendly and helpful staff have told you where the local cafés,<br />
shops and bus-stops are. And taxis to/from here aren’t going<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
to break the bank. Q44 rooms (13 singles €45, 27 doubles<br />
€55 - 70, 4 suites €80). PHALGK hhh<br />
Harmony E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 866 53 77, fax<br />
866 25 37, sofia@hotels-harmony.com, www.hotelsharmony.com.<br />
You won’t be drowned in luxury here but you’ll<br />
certainly find everything necessary for a pleasant and restful<br />
stay, and the small scale of the place makes you feel looked<br />
after. It’s right next door to one of Sofia’s most popular indoor<br />
and outdoor swimming pools, which you can use free of charge<br />
the first time, after which a small entrance fee comes into<br />
operation. Q16 rooms (singles €55, doubles €75, suites<br />
€85 - 95). PHALK hhh<br />
Madrid G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 12, tel. 944 89 52, fax 943<br />
31 44, hotel@madridbg.com, www.madridbg.com. <strong>In</strong>timate<br />
hotel in a quiet area just east of the city centre, offering<br />
simply furnished en-suite rooms and little in the way of extras.<br />
Difficult to beat at this price. Q15 rooms (2 singles €20, 10<br />
doubles €28, 2 triples €33, 1 quad €40). PJAW h<br />
Niky C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 16, tel. 952 30 58, fax 951<br />
60 91, office@hotel-niky.com, www.hotel-niky.com. This<br />
superbly located and friendly place has a lot of admirers,<br />
so be sure to book in advance. The handful of single and<br />
double rooms come with modern furnishings, minibar, TV<br />
and WC/shower. However the majority of rooms are roomy<br />
apartment-style affairs featuring kitchenette and bathtub.<br />
The garden restaurant, famed for its grills, comes into its own<br />
in spring and summer. Q22 rooms (3 singles €40 - 45, 3<br />
doubles €45 - 50, 16 apartments €60 - 105, 1 double luxury<br />
€50 - 55). PARUGKW hhh<br />
Pop Bogomil A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 5, tel. 983 11 65,<br />
fax 983 70 65, hotelpopbogomil@dir.bg, www.bulgariabedandbreakfast.com.<br />
Welcoming and intimate place in<br />
an area of cobbled residential streets a few minutes’ walk<br />
from the city centre. Rooms are on the small side and feature<br />
mix-and-match furnishings that might not quite make it into<br />
the pages of a design magazine, but everything else about<br />
this hotel seems tidy and comfy. Some rooms have bathtubs,<br />
some have showers, so ask in advance if you’ve got a preference.<br />
Breakfast costs a few leva extra. Q10 rooms (doubles<br />
€30 - 33). LW hhh<br />
Red Bed and Breakfast C-4, ul. Lyuben Karavelov<br />
15, tel./fax 988 81 88, info@redbandb.com, www.<br />
redbandb.com. An early twentieth-century villa houses the<br />
Red House cultural centre as well as this charming B&B. The<br />
rooms come in a variety of different styles: some feature<br />
soothingly pale decor while others are kitted out in sensuous<br />
reds and greens. Toilet and bathroom are located in the<br />
hallway, but you do get breakfast delivered to your room.<br />
The top-floor terrace is a great place to hang out when the<br />
weather gets warmer. Q6 rooms (singles €25 - 35, doubles<br />
€40 - 50). RKW hh<br />
RotasaR G-8, ul. Liditse and Kosta Lulchev (at the<br />
corner), tel. 971 45 71, fax 971 45 74, hotel@rotasar.<br />
com, www.rotasar.com. Smallish hotel with a cosy feel, in<br />
a residential neighbourhood 2km east of the centre on the<br />
way to Sofia airport. Rooms come in different sizes and colour<br />
schemes but are all equipped with a small TV, minibar and<br />
bathroom. Colourful contemporary prints in the rooms and<br />
hallways add a bit of character. Breakfast in the downstairs<br />
restaurant costs an extra €3. Q18 rooms (8 doubles €42 -<br />
49, 7 apartments €62 - 82, 3 studios. PARKW hh<br />
Shipka G-7, bul. Totleben 34A, tel. 915 14 87, fax<br />
953 12 30, shipka_hotel@abv.bg, www.hotel-shipka.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHere to stay<br />
Borovets<br />
Tel.: +359 750 3 20 45<br />
Fax: +359 750 3 26 07<br />
reservations@iceangelshotel.com<br />
www.iceangelshotel.com<br />
com. Twenty minutes’ walk southwest of the centre, this<br />
Defence Ministry-owned establishment is a bit care-worn<br />
and institutionalised at first glance, but it’s far from being a<br />
boot camp. Rooms are adequate and come with TV, fridge<br />
and WC/shower: those in the ‘lux’ category have the added<br />
benefits of plush carpets and jolly colour schemes. The fab<br />
subterranean fitness complex looks like a training centre for<br />
special agents: saunas, steam baths and gym are free for<br />
hotel guests, while a plethora of wellness treatments come<br />
at an extra charge. Q135 rooms (singles €34, doubles €43,<br />
apartment vip €92). PHRFLKD hhh<br />
Sofia Garden Bed and Breakfast C-3, ul. Angel<br />
Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45, art-hostel@art-hostel.<br />
com, www.art-hostel.com. Located in the same centrallylocated<br />
nineteenth-century building as the ever-popular Art<br />
Hostel (see “Hostels” below), Sofia Garden offers simplyfurnished<br />
but characterful rooms with wooden floorboards,<br />
distressed chairs and wardrobes, and high ceilings. Toilet<br />
and shower are across the hallway. There’s a communal hall<br />
with homely ceramic stove, and a small kitchen complete<br />
with kettle and toaster. Room price includes breakfast<br />
coupons, which you can cash in at the excellent “Kuhnyata<br />
na mama” canteen-restaurant just down the street. Q9<br />
rooms (4 doubles €26 - 36, 2 Private rooms €14, 3 Dorm<br />
rooms €10). ARW h<br />
Apartment hotels<br />
Apartment House Dunav A-4, ul. Dunav 38, tel. 983<br />
30 02, fax 983 38 04, reception@dunavapartmenthouse.com,<br />
www.dunavapartmenthouse.com. A range<br />
of delightfully light and spacious apartments with parquet<br />
floors, neutral colours, kitchenette, TV and WC/shower.<br />
The 2-bed family apartments on the top floor come with<br />
attractive attic windows. Breakfast can be delivered from<br />
the nearby Tabiet restaurant if you’re too lazy to cook your<br />
own. Handily located in a downtown area characterized<br />
by quiet cobbled streets. Q14 rooms (14 apartments<br />
€58 - 88). Rates fall dramatically the longer you stay.<br />
PTAR hhh<br />
Apartment House Iztok G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel.<br />
970 01 00, fax 970 01 28, aphouse_iztok@yahoo.com,<br />
www.apartmenthouseiztok.bg. Fully serviced apartment<br />
block on the southeastern fringes of the centre. The smallest<br />
studio apartments are no different to a mid-price hotel<br />
room, but providing you steer clear of these you should have<br />
no complaints. Expect lam floors, warm colours, and modern<br />
bathrooms with tubs. Breakfast is brought to your room, and<br />
there’s a strip of garden complete with kids’ play area out the<br />
back. Q32 rooms (4 singles €110, 4 doubles €120, 5 apartments<br />
€190, 8 business studios €135, 6 family apartments<br />
€150, 5 big family apartments €170). Rates fall in proportion<br />
to length of stay. PTARLKW hhh<br />
Apartment House Sofia G-7, ul. Golo bardo 2-4, tel.<br />
960 28 88, fax 960 28 60, info@aphouse-sofia.com,<br />
January - March 2009<br />
23
24 WHere to stay<br />
www.aphouse-sofia.com. Tidy new block in a residential<br />
area just south of the centre, offering comfy apartments<br />
ranging in size from 2-person studios to 2-bedroom family<br />
flats. All have laminated floors, pastel-coloured furnishings, TV,<br />
kitchenette, and bathrooms with full-sized tubs. Apartments<br />
are serviced daily. If you don’t fancy self-catering, you can eat<br />
very well at the Carrera restaurant on the ground floor. Q (28<br />
apartments €120 - 180). Long-stay rates are substantially<br />
cheaper. PTARLK<br />
Apartment rental<br />
City Hotels Ltd C-5, bul. Evlogi Georgiev 85, tel. 0888<br />
509 199, office@rentinsofia.com, www.rentinsofia.com.<br />
This firm have around 30 apartments at their disposal, of<br />
varying sizes and at various locations around town. Judging by<br />
the one we saw, furnishings are tasteful, colour schemes are<br />
soothing, and kitchens and bathrooms are fully equipped with<br />
modern gear. Apartments are serviced on a daily basis. Q<br />
The prices range from €40 for one bedroom apts, to €60-80<br />
for a 3-bedroom family dwelling. Prices decrease according<br />
to how long you stay.<br />
Variety E-3, ul. Yoan Ekzarh 20, tel. 963 31 51, fax 866 15<br />
57, office@variety-bg.com, www.variety-bg.com. Variety<br />
offer well over 20 properties in central Sofia and the inner-ring of<br />
suburban districts, with short- or long-term apartments ranging<br />
in size from 2- to 4-bedroom. <strong>In</strong>teriors are neat and tasteful,<br />
some feature a very high standard of interior design indeed.<br />
The apartments are fully serviced and secure. Q Prices vary<br />
between €40 and €70 depending on the size of the apartment,<br />
with discounts for long term stays. ALW<br />
Hostels<br />
Art-Hostel C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45,<br />
art-hostel@art-hostel.com, www.art-hostel.com. The<br />
original idea behind this little place was that it would be a<br />
hostel-cum-art gallery where people could meet and exchange<br />
ideas. It doesn’t always live up to its cultural mission but it’s<br />
quirky, friendly and central all the same. There are two dormitories<br />
equipped with double-decker bunks, and a communal<br />
sitting room with soft furnishings and occasional exhibitions.<br />
The weirdly decorated downstairs cafe-bar is reason enough<br />
to stay. Price includes a modest breakfast (served at a nearby<br />
cafe-restaurant, not on the premises). Q Dorm bed €11,<br />
mattress on the floor without breakfast €5. W<br />
Be My Guest C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 13, tel. 989 50 92,<br />
bemyguest@mail.bg, www.bemyguest-hostel.com.<br />
Centrally-placed hostel with a rambling collection of rooms<br />
and a cosy if cramped living room. The dorms and doubles<br />
are functional in the extreme but funky ethno furnishings will<br />
make you feel at home. The 5-bed split-level apartment,<br />
decorated with kooky paintings, is well worth getting hold of<br />
if you’re travelling as a family or with friends. A basic breakfast<br />
is included. Q €10 -12-15per bed. PLW<br />
Hostel Mostel B-2, bul. Makedonia 2A, tel. 0889 223<br />
296, info@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.com.<br />
Lurking behind an unlikely-looking metal doorway, Hostel<br />
Mostel is one of Sofia’s hidden treasures, occupying a reconstructed<br />
nineteenth-century inn which plonked surreally<br />
in a city-centre courtyard. The simple, mattress-on-the-floor<br />
accommodation is neat and clean: individual dorms can be<br />
booked as private rooms by twosomes or threesomes for a<br />
few extra euro during the low season. The spacious groundfloor<br />
social area, including pool table, internet terminal,<br />
kitchen, and oriental, cushion-strewn divan, is a major feature.<br />
Q €10-15 per person. W<br />
Hostel Sofia B-2, ul. Pozitano 16, tel. 989 85 82,<br />
hostel-sofia@yahoo.com. Sofia’s first-ever backpackerfriendly<br />
hostel is still going strong, with two floors of pinefloored,<br />
bunk-filled dorms (ranging in size from 12-bed to<br />
4-bed) in a central apartment block. It still has the feel of a<br />
cosy private flat, with teddy-bear wallpaper in some of the<br />
dorms, lounge furniture stuffed into the hallway, and a small<br />
but fully-equipped kitchen. Breakfast included. Q €10 per<br />
person. PIKW<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet Hostel B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, 2nd floor, tel. 0889<br />
138 298, fax 989 94 19, interhostel@yahoo.co.uk. A<br />
place that always seems to be full of nice and friendly young<br />
travellers. Clean and tidy rooms ranging in size from a single<br />
to a six-bed dorm. It’s a bit difficult to find at first: enter the<br />
shopping arcade at Alabin 50, look for the plain white door<br />
on your left, then head up the stairs. Q From €9-10 per<br />
person - dorm room, €25-30 double room, €30-35 for studio,<br />
€35-40 triple room. R<br />
Sofia Guesthouse C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 27, tel.<br />
403 01 00, info@sofiaguest.com, www.sofiaguest.<br />
com. Spacious and relaxing hostel with fresh-smelling, airconditioned<br />
dorms, a healthy number of toilets and showers<br />
on each floor, and a big sitting-room-cum-socializing area near<br />
the reception desk. Plus there’s a basement breakfast room<br />
and TV room. Use of internet terminal and washing machine<br />
for a small extra fee. Breakfast included. Q €10-18 per<br />
person. PAW<br />
The Rooms A-5, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 0898 260<br />
316, fax 983 35 08, theroomshostel@yahoo.com.<br />
Quiet little place offering individual single and double<br />
rooms, most of which have an en-suite WC/shower. The<br />
charmingly odd furnishings include some genuine antiques.<br />
The cupboard-sized socializing area (really just a corner<br />
of the hallway) features a lovely crimson sofa that is very<br />
easy to sink into but is virtually impossible to get out of.<br />
Breakfast (often featuring the typically <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n banitsa<br />
cheese pastry) is available for a small extra fee. Q €10-<br />
15 per person. R<br />
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New restaurants are opening all the time in Sofia, but<br />
there aren’t enough good chefs to go round and standards<br />
tend to yo-yo as a result. Service is traditionally on the<br />
slow side, but things are picking up in this department.<br />
The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a main<br />
course.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino M Nearest station<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet 6 Animal friendly<br />
Armenian<br />
Egur, Egur B-4, ul. Dobrudzha 10, tel. 989 33 83,<br />
egur@abv.bg. Armenian food, superbly prepared and<br />
presented with old-school elegance, in a restaurant, owned<br />
bys <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-Armenian jazz singer Hilda Kazasyan. No-holdsbarred<br />
carnivores should plump for the Caucasian flame-grilled<br />
kebabs, although there’s plenty by way of subtly-spiced<br />
stews and loads of vegetarian options involving aubergines,<br />
peppers, courgettes and other tasty fresh things. There’s<br />
an extensive list of both <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and international wines,<br />
expensive vintage tipples included. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(20-30Lv). PJA<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Bulgari B-5, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 71, tel. 843 54 19,<br />
fax 846 84 46, bulgarians@abv.bg, www.restaurantbulgary.com.<br />
For an elegant dining experience, head for<br />
this historic house crammed full of sepia photographs of<br />
old Sofia. The menu focuses mainly on classic <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
dishes although there’s a number of modern European<br />
choices too. The bow-tied waiting staff seem to know<br />
their business, and the upstairs no-smoking rooms are<br />
genuinely secluded from the rest. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.<br />
(10-25Lv). PAGW<br />
Divaka C-3, ul. Gladston 54, tel. 989 95 43. The<br />
“Savage” is extremely popular among younger locals for<br />
its relaxed informal atmosphere and good, inexpensive<br />
food. There’s a big choice of huge salads, the grilled pork<br />
and chicken dishes are dependably delicious, and even<br />
the vegetarian shish-kebab is surprisingly tasty. There<br />
are other branches at C-3 ul. Hristo Belchev 16 (a bright,<br />
minimalistically-decorated place that looks like a smart<br />
canteen for yuppies); and at C-3, ul. 6-ti septemvri 41A.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (7-12Lv). P<br />
Etno B-3, ul. Alabin 35, tel. 988 75 75, etnoegur@<br />
abv.bg. Spread out in a large basement in the heart of the<br />
downtown shopping area, this is a rather elegant take on a<br />
familiar down-on-the-farm rustic theme. Starched napkins<br />
and fancy cutlery adorn the tables, while garlic and corn<br />
cobs hang on rough whitewashed walls in the background.<br />
The menu aims to provide down-to-earth home cooking<br />
from around Europe (I’m sure we saw a Wiener Schnitzel in<br />
here somewhere), although the accent is on <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n meat<br />
favourites - it’s a nice change to see <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n grill-snacks<br />
given the serious cuisine treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(5-15Lv). PJAIG<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaUrants<br />
Hadzhidraganovite kashti F-7, ul. Kozloduy 75,<br />
tel. 931 31 48, info@kashtite.com, www.kashtite.<br />
com. Hugely enjoyable theme restaurant located mid-way<br />
between the town centre and the train station, consisting<br />
of four large rooms, each designed in the folk style of a particular<br />
region of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Traditional musicians drift from<br />
room to room during the course of the evening, ensuring<br />
that no-one misses the show. The lengthy menu covers<br />
just about everything in the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culinary repertoire,<br />
and the list of rakias will have you scratching your head<br />
wondering which to try next. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. (10-<br />
15Lv). PAIE<br />
Halbite C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 72, tel. 980 41 47. One of<br />
central Sofia’s most enduringly popular beer hall-cum-eateries,<br />
with a predominantly <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n menu - but without the<br />
kitsch touches you get in some of the more self-consciously<br />
touristy places. Expect instead a relaxing jumble of roughand-ready<br />
wooden tables and chairs, a generous choice of<br />
domestic and international beers, and rock or blues on the<br />
sound system. Very popular, so be sure to reserve at weekends.<br />
There’s another branch at C-1, bul. Praga 18. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (5-15Lv). PGBS<br />
Chevermeto E-3, bul. Cherni vrah 31, tel./fax 963<br />
03 08, chevermeto@chevermeto-bg.com, www.<br />
chevermeto-bg.com. Despite it’s location in the basement<br />
of the greying Hotel Hemus, an evening at the “Spit-Roast<br />
Lamb” comes across as an entertaining journey into <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
rural ethnography. Traditional textiles are draped across<br />
every surface, and folk groups perform nightly after 8pm.<br />
The sizeable menu includes just about everything in the<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culinary repertoire, so there should be something<br />
here to suit all tastes and pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(9-22Lv). PAILE<br />
January - March 2009<br />
25
26 restaUrants<br />
Magdanoz (Parsley) B-1, ul. Damyan Gruev 28, tel.<br />
981 14 30. A friendly restaurant furnished with wooden<br />
sitting and beautiful garden. The chef prepares delicious<br />
salads, soups, meat and vegetarian dishes, desserts. They<br />
offer also a nice lunch menu. Try the bolyar meat balls or the<br />
mushrooms filled with cream and yellow chese. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 23:00. 6B<br />
Manastirska magernitsa C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 67, tel.<br />
980 38 83/0899 94 94 00, www.magernitsa.com.. Sheltered<br />
in an elegantly decorated nineteenth-century house, the<br />
restaurant offers an imaginative approach towards traditional<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine - the owners have collected traditional<br />
recipes from <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n monasteries and reproduced here. Although<br />
the menu is so long that it takes an eternity to decide<br />
what to eat, it features a lot of things you won’t find elsewhere<br />
and has plenty of choice for vegetarians. Service can be slow,<br />
but you won’t find many finer settings for a long leisurely meal.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (12-18Lv). PJAB<br />
Pod lipite D-5, ul. Elin Pelin 1, tel. 866 50 53, www.<br />
podlipitebg.com. One of Sofia’s longest-established and<br />
most enjoyable traditional restaurants, with a suite of rooms<br />
done out in the style of a timber-beamed small-town tavern.<br />
The menu is extensive and doesn’t really have any weak<br />
points - the succulent shashlik-style skewer-grilled kebabs<br />
constitute one particular treat. Vegetarians can assemble<br />
a handsome feast from the courgette-, aubergine- and<br />
pepper-based dishes listed as starters. Service is brisk and<br />
enthusiastic, and live folk music is a feature at weekends.<br />
The place gets packed out even at lunchtimes, so it’s wise<br />
to reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (8-20Lv).<br />
PILGBSW<br />
Pri Yafata B-2, ul. Solunska 28, tel. 980 17 27, www.<br />
pri-yafata.com. Traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine served up in<br />
a suite of rooms decked out in folk textiles and nineteenthcentury<br />
domestic nick-nacks. It’s an excellent place in which<br />
to sample the standard <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n repertoire of grilled meats,<br />
backed up by an array of healthy salads and some superb<br />
spicy bob (baked beans Balkan-style). Some of the cheaper<br />
wines are a bit rough though. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. (6-<br />
12Lv). PAEW<br />
Czech<br />
Cheshki klub B-5, ul. Krakra 15, tel. 944 13 83. With<br />
its plain wood furnishings, plain tablecloths and busy waiters,<br />
the Czech Club is one of those reassuringly old-fashioned<br />
places that seems to occupy its own bubble in space and<br />
time - Ruritania in the 1950s being the most likely coordinates.<br />
The prices are stuck in the 1950s too - you can eat<br />
handsomely here for the price of a salad in some other Sofia<br />
restaurants. The menu is vaguely central European padded<br />
out with <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n grills. For something authentically Czech<br />
order the goulash or pork served with knedliky - fantastically<br />
filling sliced dumplings. The well-kept Staropramen beer is<br />
another reason to make the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. (6-10Lv). JGBW<br />
French<br />
L’Etranger A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 78, tel. 983 14 17/0887<br />
523 376, bistrot_letranger@hotmail.com. Homely bistro<br />
offering very reasonable food - good place for a quick lunch or<br />
a more leisurely three-course meal. The chef is a Frenchman<br />
who owns the place together with his <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wife, so it’s a<br />
real family restaurant. Good service and meals that live up to<br />
expectations. What more can you say? QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (14-22Lv). PA<br />
Fun<br />
Happy Bar & Grill B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 4, tel. 980 73<br />
53. If you’re the kind of person who likes bright neon lights,<br />
laminated menues and electric guitars on the walls, then this<br />
is most emphatically the place for you. Expect to dine on grilled<br />
chicken and pork dishes, followed by an array of excellent<br />
sweets. The large choice of alcoholic substances ensures<br />
that this is a popular venue in which to spin out an evening.<br />
It’s a huge place that’s constantly busy, so be prepared<br />
to squeeze in wherever the wait-staff can find you a place.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PJABSW<br />
Greek<br />
Kumbare B-3, ul. Saborna 14, tel. 981 17 94/0897 806<br />
390, office@kumbare.com, www.kumbare.com. Pretty<br />
much everything you would expect from a Greek restaurant is<br />
here in abundance, with a succulent repertoire of grilled lamb<br />
and fish dishes accompanied by luxuriant salads - all prepared<br />
under the watchful eye of the head chef. The loud and exuberant<br />
music will soon put you in the right mood to dive into the<br />
selection of ouzos and retsinas. Chandeliers, flowers, and<br />
Ionian columns create a winning Mediterranean ambience, an<br />
impression enhanced by the sharp-looking team of young men<br />
in starched white shirts that make up the wait-staff. Kumbare’s<br />
position on central Sofia’s main tourist route ensures a constant<br />
stream of diners - so you’d better make a reservation.<br />
Oh, and just in case you were wondering, “Kumbare” means<br />
“best man”, and is also the name of a traditional Greek dessert<br />
prepared from cake fingers, mascarpone and nuts. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (7-34Lv). PJAEBS<br />
Hungarian<br />
Pri Latsi B-5, ul. Oborishte 18, tel. 846 86 87. Authentic<br />
Magyar cuisine, prepared under the watchful eye of Laszlo<br />
Sendi, former manager of the legendary (but no longer standing)<br />
Restaurant Budapeshta. With no more than eight tables spread<br />
over two floors, it’s a delightfully cozy and intimate setting in<br />
which to enjoy some truly excellent food - try the rich, creamy,<br />
paprika-laden Szekely goulash, followed by shamloi galushki<br />
(fried dough balls covered in syrup). Folksy Hungarian embroidery<br />
on the walls and cheerful wait-staff provide the finishing<br />
touches. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7-13Lv). PGBS<br />
Chinese<br />
Devette drakona B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8A, tel. 981<br />
88 78. Ignore the gaudy signs advertising the “Gentlemen’s<br />
Club” on the ground floor of the building and head upstairs to find<br />
one of Sofia’s better oriental eateries. The excellent, if familiar<br />
repertoire of pork, beef and duck dishes has never disappointed,<br />
and the décor’s quite nice too: soothing shades of Burgundy<br />
prevail, and apart from a pair of enormous vases each big enough<br />
to house a fair-sized panda, there’s a reassuring absence of fareastern<br />
kitsch. The no-smoking corner is relatively well secluded.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (4-12Lv). PJGS<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Kitayski Drakon (Chinese Dragon) B-2, ul. Ivailo<br />
19, tel. 0899 006 061/983 60 34, vel@vel-bg.com,<br />
www.vel-bg.com. The food is of course Chinese and they<br />
have lots of spicy dishes. The menu is impressive with more<br />
than 200 dishes, most of which have the choice of small or<br />
large portion. For delivery you can order by phone or online.<br />
They have another restaurant on ul. Slavyanska Beseda 3.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4-10Lv). PB<br />
Magnolia B-2, ul. Tri ushi 2, tel. 987 11 20. Bare-topped<br />
tables and a minimum of décor provide a suitably functional<br />
environment in which to feast upon cheap, filling and wellprepared<br />
food. The menu sticks to tried-and-trusted pork and<br />
chicken favourites - with the welcome addition of some fiery<br />
Sechuan dishes you won’t find elsewhere in town. Last time<br />
we were here the staff were playing a sequence of pounding<br />
techno tracks that seemed to be on a permanent loop - if<br />
this was intended as a digestional aid it was certainly a new<br />
one on us. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PS<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Kohinoor C-2, ul. Han Aparuh 3, tel. 0882 53 25 41,<br />
info@kohinoor.bg, www.kohinoor.bg. 1st street off Hristo<br />
Botev at the Five Corners lies the Kohinoor. And, like its<br />
namesake it’s a real diamond. The menu is as predictable<br />
as most <strong>In</strong>dian menus and the food is great. Huge portions<br />
too. Nice spacious downstairs restaurant with great space<br />
between the tables and an excellent bathroom. The bathroom<br />
alone is worth a visit. The food is brilliant. Service comes<br />
with a real smile. And, with a bill that is actually a pleasure<br />
to pay, all in all it’s worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat<br />
17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (8-15Lv). PJ<br />
Taj Mahal B-4, ul. 11-i avgust 11, tel. 987 36 32, tajmahal.bg@gmail.com,<br />
www.tajmahal.bg. Very good tikka<br />
masalas, rogan joshes and other familiar dishes in a relaxing<br />
three-storey location. There are plenty of vegetarian options,<br />
great samosas, decent naan bread and other authentic extras.<br />
Although the soothing orangey interior doesn’t go overboard<br />
with theatrical touches, the same cannot be said for the<br />
background music, with sitar versions of rock classics looping<br />
through the meal. Most expats agree that the food and service<br />
are some of the best in town, although the bill can be a little<br />
difficult to swallow. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-18Lv). PA<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Bistro Zita A-5, ul. Iskar 86, tel. 846 43 23/0899 190<br />
586, bistrozita@abv.bg. This small restaurant is one of the<br />
few in the neighbourhood. It has two rooms, each with 4-5<br />
tables and 2 tables outside. The seating is wooden and the<br />
chairs have pretty cushions. The music is chill-out, there is a<br />
TV and the bathroom is clean. The staff are English speaking,<br />
welcoming and fast. They offer salads, grilled meat (try the<br />
ribs or the banski starets), fish, spaghetti, pizza and toasts.<br />
They have an interesting choice of alcoholic and non-alcoholic<br />
cocktails and milk shakes. QOpen 8:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(4.20 - 10.00Lv). JGBSW<br />
Butchers C-5, ul. Sheynovo 4A, tel. 0887 104 378. This<br />
place does indeed look like a butchers’ shop at first glance,<br />
with a bloke in an apron standing behind a counter stocked<br />
with Spanish hams, Mediterranean delicatessen goodies and<br />
fine wines. Behind the counter a private-looking passageway<br />
leads through to a back room filled with distressed furniture<br />
and bohemian-looking wine-quaffing patrons. The menu is<br />
composed of whatever the chef feels like cooking that day:<br />
expect gourmet cold meats, exquisite quiches, and other<br />
Franco-Hispanic treats. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (5-12Lv).<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaUrants<br />
Decoding the menu<br />
Starters and salads (предястия и салати)<br />
Shopska salata (шопска салата) – sliced tomato,<br />
cucumber, sweet pepper, onion and grated white sheep’s<br />
cheese<br />
Ovcharska salata (овчарска салата) – tomatoes,<br />
cucumbers, peppers, onions, mushrooms, ham, egg<br />
and cheese<br />
Snezhanka (снежанка) – made of strained yoghurt,<br />
cucumber and garlic<br />
Kyopolu (Aubergine puree) (кьопоолу) – salad of mashed<br />
baked eggplant, peppers, loads of garlic, parsley,<br />
vinegar and sunflower oil<br />
Sudzhuk (суджук), lukanka (луканка), pastarma<br />
(пастърма) – traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n dried salami with<br />
various spices, salt and pepper<br />
Soups (супи)<br />
Tarator (таратор) – cold soup with yoghurt, cucumber,<br />
walnuts and dill. Especially popular in hot summer<br />
Bob chorba (bean soup) (боб чорба) – well soaked dried<br />
beans, a variety of vegetables and plenty of herbs<br />
Shkembe chorba (шкембе чорба) – tripe soup cooked in<br />
milk with garlic, vinegar and chilli<br />
Zelenchukova supa (зеленчукова супа) – vegetable<br />
soup<br />
Meat dishes (ястия с месо)<br />
Kebapche (кебапче) – grilled minced meat rolls<br />
Kyufte (кюфте) – grilled minced meat balls<br />
Shish Kebap (шиш кебап) – grilled skewered meat, onion<br />
and paprika<br />
Meshana skara (мешана скара) – a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n version<br />
of mixed grill<br />
Sarmi (сърми) – cabbage or vines leaves stuffed with<br />
meat<br />
Kavarma (кавърма) – meat and vegetable stew, usually<br />
served in individual pots<br />
Banska kapama (банска капама) – chicken, pork, veal,<br />
cabbage, and rice<br />
Gyuvech (гювеч) – a dish of vegetables and meat baked<br />
in an earthenware pot<br />
Lamb in oven (St. George’s way) (агнешко на фурна) –<br />
lamb stuffed with pluck and rice, cooked in the oven,<br />
served with green salad<br />
Vegetarian dishes (постни ястия)<br />
Sirene po shopski (сирене по шопски) – white sheep’s<br />
cheese baked with eggs<br />
Chushki byurek (чушки бюрек) – fried peppers stuffed<br />
with egg and cheese<br />
Kashkaval pane (кашкавал пане) – fried, breaded<br />
yellow cheese<br />
Banitsa (баница) – flaky pastry filled with white cheese<br />
Kiselo mlyako (кисело мляко) – world famous <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
yoghurt<br />
Deserts and sweets (десерти)<br />
Crem caramel (крем карамел) – dessert prepared from<br />
fresh milk, eggs and caramelized sugar, similar to the<br />
classic French crème brulee<br />
Baklava (баклава) – flaky pastry stuffed with pistachio<br />
nuts in syrup<br />
Kadaif (кадаиф) – shredded wheat stuffed with nuts<br />
in syrup<br />
January - March 2009<br />
27
28 restaUrants<br />
Cactus C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 20, tel. 986 74 31/0888<br />
801 452, www.restaurant-cactus.com. Despite the distinct<br />
lack of desertson the menu, Cactus earned our seal of<br />
approval with its mainstream European mix of well-prepared<br />
steaks, chicken dishes and pan-fried fish. Low-key lighting and<br />
solid wooden furnishings give the place a relaxing pub-like feel,<br />
and there’s additional seating in a bright covered yard out<br />
the back. Good-value all-you-can-eat buffet for Sunday lunch.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00 & 17:00-23:00.<br />
(9-24Lv). PJAW<br />
Comercial C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 27, tel. 0897 931<br />
291/0899 845 085. Modern European cuisine in a modern<br />
European setting: think whitewashed walls, moody lighting,<br />
minimal furnishings and comfy cushioned benches. The fresh<br />
pasta is very good, but main courses are a bit more hit-and-miss<br />
- let’s just say that the duck with orange sauce will get to your<br />
taste buds more quickly than their not-quite-there-yet attempt<br />
at British-style fish and chips. Oh, and portions are on the small<br />
side too. However service is excellent and the location on trendy<br />
Shishman street means that it’s the perfect place for a bite to eat<br />
after shopping for frocks - or before hitting the downtown bars.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (10-15Lv). PTJA6GW<br />
Cookies bar & dinner cafe C-3, pl. Slaveykov, tel.<br />
488 17 22. A stylish place, where you can have either lunch<br />
(they offer daily lunch menu) or just drink a cup of coffee. It<br />
is a French-style place, with small tables for two and 3 comfortable<br />
bars. The café is airy enough; the staff is a little bit<br />
bored, but beautiful. There’s a large choice of dishes, good<br />
Mediterranean meals, soups, salads and, of course, cakes<br />
and cookies for dessert. You can just sit here, listening to<br />
Italian music and observe the crowds and the trams outside,<br />
without hearing them - the place is situated at the corner of<br />
a very busy area - just in front of Slaveykov square. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PJ<br />
Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksandar<br />
Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48, www.<br />
elateplaza.com. Glass-fronted bar & diner, stylishly designed<br />
in white and dark red colours, with comfortable modern<br />
furniture. Alongside the traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n specialties,<br />
the restaurant offers a huge international menu of salads<br />
and starters, well-prepared steaks and chicken dishes. The<br />
service is helpful and friendly. It’s a superb place for a relaxed<br />
drink in the evening with its wide range of wines and spirits.<br />
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (8-25Lv). PALBW<br />
Checkpoint Charly C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12, tel. 988 03 70,<br />
check_charly@abv.bg. With pictures of cold-war Berlin on the<br />
walls, and copies of Rabotnichesko delo (<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communistera<br />
daily newspaper) used as place-mats, you’d be forgiven for<br />
thinking that this was just another ironic post-communist theme<br />
bar. It’s actually a great restaurant, offering superbly prepared<br />
chicken, duck and steak dishes, and some delicious vegetarian<br />
concoctions on the starter menu. There’s live jazz at the weekends,<br />
and few diners leave here disappointed. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 00:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (15-25Lv). PJAEGW<br />
Kushtata s chasovnika B-4, ul. Moskovska 15, tel.<br />
987 56 56/932 75 95, reservations@clockhousebg.<br />
com, www.clockhousebg.com. Occupying the ground floor<br />
of a historic nineteenth-century home (which does indeed<br />
have a clock tower), the “House with the Clock” is probably<br />
the most elegant place you’re likely to eat in downtown Sofia.<br />
Expensive china, liveried wait-staff and an ambitious hautecuisine<br />
menu have made the place popular with <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
celebrities and the foreign business community - you won’t<br />
get in here clad in jeans unless you’re a supermodel. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (20-25Lv). PJALB<br />
Mediterraneo B-5, ul. Oborishte 9B, tel. 944 95 82.<br />
Hidden in the courtyard, in what looks like a cosy garden<br />
shed, is this very suave and comfortable eatery specializing<br />
in southern European cuisine. There’s a generous choice of<br />
pastas, veal-cutlet dishes and fish on the menu, backed up<br />
by an attractive range of desserts. Also, it’s one of the rare<br />
restaurants in Sofia where they automatically put a bottle of<br />
real olive oil on the table. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (7-25Lv).<br />
PJAEGBSW<br />
Moderato G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 11. A<br />
couple of kilometres southeast of the centre, Moderato is<br />
worth the trip if you want to savour some of the best pasta<br />
in Sofia, and a top-quality choice of Mediterranean chicken<br />
and fish courses. The second floor seems to be the better<br />
choice in terms of interior - light colours, enough space<br />
between the tables and relaxing atmosphere. The service<br />
was extremely attentive. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (12-20Lv).<br />
PTALSW<br />
Otvud aleyata zad shkafa A-3, ul. Budapeshta 31,<br />
tel. 983 55 45, www.beyond-the-alley.com. If we were<br />
to give prizes for atmosphere, this restaurant would be the<br />
undisputable winner. The eccentric name, which literally<br />
means “beyond the alley, behind the cupboard”, is indicative<br />
of the place’s quirky nature. The combination of art-nouveau<br />
interior design and friendly informal service has made Otvud<br />
a firm favourite with Sofia’s artistic elite. The menu is sometimes<br />
a touch over-imaginative for its own good, and you’re<br />
advised to stick to mainstream meat and fish dishes if you<br />
want to get the best out of the place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(10-20Lv). PA<br />
Seasons D-2, Hilton, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 933 50 62. As<br />
you’d expect from an expensive restaurant in an international<br />
hotel chain, standards here are consistently high. The modern<br />
European cuisine is as well prepared as they come, the<br />
service is flawless, and the setting strikes the right balance<br />
between comfort and elegance. QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.<br />
(20-30Lv). PAL<br />
Trikrakoto pile B-2, ul. Denkoglu 3, tel. 986 26<br />
53/0884 587 418. Situated on a quiet street, not far from<br />
the bustle of bul. Vitosha, this tightly packed suite of rooms<br />
with no-nonsense wooden furniture is a relaxing and informal<br />
venue for lunch or dinner with friends. The name means<br />
‘three-legged chicken’ which explains the strong presence of<br />
chicken dishes on the menu. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (8-12Lv). PJAW<br />
Troyantsite B-5, ul. Shipka 46, tel. 944 19 34, www.<br />
troyancite.com. Relaxing restaurant on two storeys with<br />
soothing creamy-brown décor and eager-to-please staff.<br />
An international menu of steaks, grilled chicken and freshwater<br />
fish dishes is augmented by a well-chosen selection<br />
of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n specialities - the dzholan (leg of beef baked<br />
in a pot) and grilled buffalo meat balls are hard to fault.<br />
Vegetarians should opt for the zapekanka (tasty cheese<br />
and spinach bake). QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(6-12Lv). PJABW<br />
Uno Enoteca C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 45, tel. 981<br />
43 72/981 46 13, enoteca@uno-sofia.com, www.<br />
uno-sofia.com. Modern European cuisine of the highest<br />
order, served in elegant surroundings and backed up<br />
by a truly international selection of quality wines. With<br />
irreproachable standards of service and a conveniently<br />
central location, this ranks as one of the best restaurants<br />
in the city. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (12-35Lv). PJA<br />
LGBW<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Vishnite D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski 45, tel. 963 49<br />
84/0899 866 730. This tiny, four-table restaurant, located<br />
in a residential area just south of the centre, is a firm favourite<br />
with <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns who know a thing or two about food, so it’s<br />
wise to book before heading out. Expect flawless service,<br />
elegantly-laid tables piled with classy cutlery and glassware,<br />
and a small but well-chosen menu of modern European dishes,<br />
prepared with flair and imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(18-30Lv). PA<br />
Vratata (The Door) D-3, ul. Kokiche 13, tel. 0889<br />
235 866/866 90 05, vratata@restaurant-vratata.<br />
com, www.restaurant-vratata.com. The restaurant<br />
is situated in a 100-year old house. Very elegant, cozy<br />
and stylish place where, as the owners say, “East meets<br />
West”. Varied cuisine such as game dishes, different kinds<br />
of European, Greek and Turkish meals and a number of<br />
sophisticated salads and desserts. The wine list is rich<br />
with Argentinean, Italian, Spanish and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wines.<br />
The staff are polite, without being slavish. An interesting<br />
and intimate detail is the key. Each client puts their key for<br />
The Door over the fireplace. There are different keys varied<br />
from big and old to small and ordinary. The atmosphere<br />
reproduces the aristocratic, bohemian face of old Sofia.<br />
Among the clients of the restaurant is His Majesty Simeon<br />
Saks - Koburg -Gotha, of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n royal family. This is<br />
a place, where you can find elegance, personal treatment<br />
and good cuisine. For sure you will be back. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 24:00. (15-60Lv). PAIGB<br />
Zhadnata lamya D-3, ul. 13-ti mart 2, tel. 964 06 40.<br />
The name means “Thirsty Dragon”, which we took as an immediate<br />
invitation to down several flagons of the excellent<br />
Czech Starobrno beer which is served on tap here. The food<br />
is a mixture of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and central European meat dishes,<br />
but the real pleasure of dining here comes from the friendly<br />
service and homely décor (note the fabulously eccentric<br />
picture gallery lining the walls), all of which adds to a highly<br />
enjoyable atmosphere. Some of the Mexican dishes on the<br />
menu are a bit disappointing, so its best to stick to the<br />
mainstream meat offerings and the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n salads. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (6-24Lv). PB<br />
Italian<br />
Alga B-2, ul. Lavele 11, tel. 980 24 89/0888 81 19 80,<br />
alga@abv.bg, www.alga.free.bg. Somewhat hidden behind<br />
the BulBank building at the bottom of Vitosha Boulevard, this<br />
cute little Italian restaurant is well worth a visit. It’s run by<br />
Georgio & Russistza, a man and wife team and their Sardinian<br />
chef. They will give you a very homely reception before<br />
you tuck into the complimentary olive pesto and homemade<br />
bread. There are only 20 seats, so booking is highly advised.<br />
The restaurant has a very romantic air and would be a lovely<br />
place for a special occasion. The food is superb and the<br />
service is excellent. They have a fantastic wine list to go with<br />
the simple yet exciting menu. There is a garden for the summer<br />
months which quickly removes you from the downtown<br />
hassle. All in all, a lovely place and well worth a visit. Prices<br />
are slightly above average. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-12Lv).<br />
PJALBS<br />
Gioia B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 60, tel. 986 08 54, festaitaliana@abv.bg,<br />
www.festaitaliana-bg.com. It is<br />
the perfect place to enjoy Italian cuisine with ingredients<br />
imported directly from Italy and desserts, prepared on the<br />
spot. It has a decade of serving clients, behind their backs.<br />
They have both a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and Italian menus and the staff<br />
speaks English, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and Italian. It seems the owner<br />
is quite concerned if his clients are satisfied by food and<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaUrants<br />
service. The restaurant has 60 seats and is calm, with a<br />
friendly atmosphere. The menu offers fresh pasta, fish and<br />
seafood specialties and the wine list ranges from 30 to<br />
70 Lv. Gioia is definitely on the leading spot in Sofia, when<br />
thinking of Italian food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. pasta (14-<br />
35Lv). PAGB<br />
Japanese<br />
Sakura G-7, Kempinski Hotel Zografski, bul. Dzheims<br />
Bauchar 100, tel. 969 24 20. This rather charming place<br />
is located in a pavilion in the garden of the Kempinski hotel.<br />
It’s approached over a very picturesque bridge that you might<br />
expect to see adorning a set of willow-pattern crockery. Paper<br />
partitions, low tables (you can kneel on cushions or sit on a<br />
stepped depression under the table) and nimble waitresses<br />
swishing around in kimonos help to set the mood. Assuming<br />
that you haven’t the time to fly to Tokyo and dine out there,<br />
the impressive range of sushi and main courses is authentic<br />
enough. A full meal with sake will set you back a small<br />
fortune by Sofia standards, but for a great evening out with<br />
a difference, it’s money well spent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.<br />
(15-30Lv). PALGW<br />
Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Denkoglu 18, tel. 981 84 42. Conveniently<br />
situated just around the corner from the fashionable<br />
shops of bul. Vitosha, this smart but affordable oriental eatery<br />
offers a lengthy menu of different types of sushi, all excellently<br />
prepared and accompanied with portions of fresh ginger and<br />
wasabe paste. Ordering a set menu will allow you to sample<br />
a broad range of what they offer. Noodle soups and teriyaki<br />
dishes also available. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30. (3.50-37Lv).<br />
PAGW<br />
Lebanese<br />
Tazka C-1, bul. Makedonia 48, tel. 951 54 29. We took<br />
both a vegetarian and a carnivore to this friendly restaurant<br />
and both came away very happy indeed. The animal lover<br />
feasted on starters like houmous, baba ganouj, a delicately<br />
spiced aubergine and tomato salad, and fatayer (spinach<br />
pies), while her companion’s bloodlust was more than satiated<br />
by the fatteh (chicken, chick peas and herbs covered in<br />
yoghurt). The arak (an aniseed-flavoured spirit which turns<br />
cloudy when you add water) went down very well indeed. Live<br />
music and belly dancing pulls in the crowds at weekends, so<br />
be sure to book ahead. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.<br />
(18-20Lv). PG<br />
Moroccan<br />
Annette C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 27, tel. 980 40 98/088<br />
513 9676, www.annette.bg. A combination of North African<br />
music, flickering candlelight and star-shaped lanterns should<br />
lull you into the perfect frame of mind to enjoy an authentic<br />
Moroccan menu which takes in tajini, couscous and some lush<br />
healthy salads. Finish off with Moroccan mint tea with cedar<br />
nuts, or a lengthy puff on the narghile. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(8-18Lv). PJAGBSW<br />
Pizza<br />
Classic B-3, ul. Serdika 14, tel. 0878 656 401, classicpizza1@abv.bg,<br />
www.pizzabg.com. Classic’s simple<br />
recipe of serving palatable pizzas, fresh salads and a handful<br />
of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n dishes has already proved a hit with locals who<br />
don’t want challenging cuisine, but still expect a bit of finesse<br />
as far as service and presentation are concerned. Reasonable<br />
prices, friendly service and dependable standards.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-20Lv). PJA6GBW<br />
January - March 2009<br />
29
30 restaUrants<br />
Fast food<br />
Bakehouse B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12. Bright and clean<br />
bakery-cum-cafe serving up banitsa and byurek (<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
flaky pastries) filled with cheese, spinach and other<br />
savouries. Wash them down with a carton of airyan (salty<br />
drinking yoghurt). QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sun. S<br />
KFC B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 28, www.<br />
kfc.bg. For delivery call 933 99 99. Also at B-3 ul. Angel<br />
Kanchev 2, B-3, bul. Dondukov 5. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJLB<br />
Kuhnyata na mama C-3, ul. Racho Dimchov 3.<br />
Queue up at the counter for tasty dollops of home cooking<br />
from “Mum’s Kitchen”. Slightly pricier than the other fast<br />
food places, but usually worth it. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. G<br />
McDonald’s Rock’n’Roll D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1,<br />
next to NDK, tel. 0884 000 305/960 40 20, www.<br />
mcdonalds.bg. Restaurant with Juke box, McDrive, found<br />
just next to NDK (National Palace of Culture), under the<br />
Lover’s bridge. On the 14th of Feb they organize 24 hour<br />
Rock’n’Roll marriage with McDonald’s certificate, a Cadillac<br />
drive and surprise present. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
PTJAGBS<br />
Mimas C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 68. Sofia’s first real<br />
takeaway burger joint and still the best. It’s packed at<br />
lunchtimes and remains the venue of choice for after-club<br />
munchies. Burgers come with a wad of deliciously greasy<br />
French fries stuffed inside. Doner kebabs and felafel fill<br />
out the menu. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JS<br />
Trops Kushta C-4, ul. Gurko 38, www.tropshouse.<br />
bg. If you want a crash course in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine<br />
then this ever-reliable order-at-the-counter canteen will<br />
have mass-catering versions of most Balkan dishes on<br />
display. It may be lukewarm, but it’s cheap. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 21:00. JG<br />
Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Head to the<br />
top floor of this covered market to find an array of counters<br />
serving sandwiches, pizza slices, basic grills, and Chinese<br />
noodles. There is no quicker and easier way of stuffing<br />
your face. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PG<br />
Don Domat C-2, ul. Tsar Asen 34, tel. 984 12 70,<br />
don_domat@abv.bg, www.dondomat.com. The name<br />
of the restaurant comes from one of the characters in “The<br />
Adventures of Lukcho” by Gianni Rodari. This small chain<br />
of restaurants all have a cozy and relaxing atmosphere,<br />
careful service and a varied menu. The owners have taken<br />
care to suit all tastes. <strong>In</strong> the “Don Tomato travel” section<br />
you can find dishes from around the world,”Don Tomato<br />
weakening” is for clients undergoing a diet. They also offer<br />
a wide variety of beer and wine. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.<br />
(8-12Lv). PJGBW<br />
Krivoto D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, in subway of NDK, tel.<br />
0885 878 485, krivoto1@abv.bg, www.krivoto.com.<br />
The newest pizzeria of the Krivoto chain is located in a key<br />
position in the subway of the NDK. Here you can enjoy lovely<br />
music and good food. On the menu there is a rich choice of<br />
pasta, pizza and other main courses. The staff are polite,<br />
smiling and uphold the standards of the Krivoto chain. The<br />
pizzeria has outside seating for 50 and inside seating for<br />
150. The interior is quite simple and clean. QOpen 10:30 -<br />
24:00. pizza ( 4-8Lv), pasta (6-7Lv), main courses (6-18Lv).<br />
PJAGB<br />
Miss Kapriz B-3, pl. Garibaldi, info@misskapriz.com,<br />
www.misskapriz.com. Bright and breezy city-centre pizzeria<br />
popular with lunching shoppers. The pizzas are ordinary in the<br />
extreme, but if your priority is to stuff yourself with low-cost<br />
food in a pleasant environment, you can’t go far wrong. For<br />
delivery you can order by phoning 9 12 60 or online. QOpen<br />
10:30 - 24:00. (6-15Lv). PJA<br />
Mon Ami Hipodruma, ul. Bulair 1, tel. 850 60 60/0888<br />
71 88 77, cgs@abv.bg, www.pizza-monami.com. The<br />
main salon for 50 is arranged with wooden tables and bench<br />
seating. The garden area for 70 has wooden seating, a<br />
fountain and big parasols. There is a barbeque and a show<br />
kitchen. They serve pizza and international dishes. Try the<br />
sach (vegetables or meat roasted on hot plate) or the Veal Oso<br />
Buko specialty. No English menus and the staff have limited<br />
English. The cuisine is good and the atmosphere is pleasant.<br />
Order using sign language or use decoding the menu section<br />
on p. 27.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (5-16Lv). PABS<br />
O! Shipka B-5, ul. Shipka 11, tel. 944 92 88, oshipka@<br />
oshipka.net, www.oshipka.net. Rich and varied choice of<br />
pizzas and salads with a few grilled meats and Mexican dishes<br />
fill out the menu. Reasonably pleasant staff, fun surroundings,<br />
and a satisfyingly tangy lasagne that had us coming back a<br />
second time. For delivery you can order by phone 988 87 88.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (5-10Lv). PAEGS<br />
Ugo C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 988 18 92, ugo_@abv.<br />
bg, www.ugo.bg. With matt black tables illuminated from<br />
designer lampshades this is as groovy a place to tuck into<br />
pizzas as you’ll find in Sofia. The pizzas themselves aren’t<br />
any better than elsewhere though; they might have Italian<br />
names but that’s as near to the Mediterranean as it gets.<br />
Huge salads provide lots of veggie options. Other branches<br />
at C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68; and C-3, ul. Han Krum 2. 24 hr<br />
home deliveries at 986 40 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
(5-17Lv). PAGW<br />
Victoria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 986 32 00,<br />
www.victoria.bg. This is many people’s favourite pizzeria in<br />
Sofia due to its generously proportioned pizzas and reasonably<br />
high standards (the dough tastes sort-of Italian even<br />
if the toppings don’t). Soups, pastas and grilled <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
staples help to fill out the menu. Tends to get crowded, and<br />
you might have to wait for a table. Also at G-8 ul. Ivan Asen II<br />
66. City-wide deliveries on tel. 911 00 and tel. 0887 911 000.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-27Lv). PJAB<br />
Russian<br />
Moskva B-3, ul. Lege 2, tel. 980 24 24/0896 860 340,<br />
moskva_@abv.bg, www.moskva.bg. This is the sort of<br />
place which will make you feel totally decadent almost as<br />
soon as you walk in to be welcomed by a crimson carpet,<br />
cherry curtains, elegant staff and live music being played on<br />
a grand piano with violin accompaniment. The music, posh<br />
surroundings, first-class service, and excellent food all combine<br />
to create an atmosphere that will transport you back in<br />
time to imperial Tsarist Russia. You are only to be reminded of<br />
the present by the latest bathroom technology and a waiter<br />
hinting the tip is not included in the bill. Expensive, but not<br />
excessively so, and although some of the wine costs far<br />
more than a main course your “nazdrave” will produce a dull<br />
sound, definitely not the cling of crystal glasses. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (6-35Lv). PE<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Ruski klub E-3, ul. Lozenska planina 22, tel. 866 50<br />
74/0888 626 994. An unpretentious doorway on a quiet<br />
residential street leads through to this cosy little place where<br />
you’ll be soothed by friendly service and lilting Russian<br />
melodies. Embark on a round of vodkas accompanied by<br />
selyodka (marinated fish) before moving on to the gorgeous,<br />
home-made pelmeni (meat-filled dumplings). Whether you<br />
have any space left for classic Russian dishes like Beef<br />
Stroganoff or the excellent range of sweets is up to you.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(8-30Lv). AGBS<br />
Vagabond G-8, ul. Svetoslav Terter 5, tel. 944 14 65.<br />
This is one of those warm and intimate places where you feel<br />
as if you are dining in someone’s living room while a family<br />
friend busies themselves in the kitchen. Sashed velvet curtains<br />
and curious murals of balloons in flight provide added<br />
atmosphere. The menu is European-meets-<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n with<br />
a healthy number of Russian favourites thrown in: a round<br />
of vodka with marinated herrings on toast is the obligatory<br />
way to kick off the evening. The pelmeni are excellent too.<br />
Recommended main courses include Chicken Kiev and<br />
Moscow Cutlets (cheese and ham wrapped in pork then<br />
breadcrumbed), although there’s a lot more besides. Mains<br />
are served with an optional variety of weird and wonderful<br />
sauces such as a delicious green sauce flavoured with<br />
spinach and basil. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(8-26Lv). JIGBS<br />
Seafood<br />
Captain Cook C-1, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 12-14, tel.<br />
954 90 98/0888 181 068, www.captaincook.bg. Fish<br />
dishes in Sofia’s mainstream restaurants generally leave<br />
a lot to be desired, so it’s nice to have specialist places<br />
like Captain Cook’s around. It’s in a slightly out-of-the-way<br />
location, but the delicious range of grilled and pan-fried fish<br />
- both fresh- and saltwater varities - should make the trip<br />
worthwhile. Fish is priced by the 100g - so don’t rush to order<br />
until you’ve inspected what’s available in the chiller cabinet<br />
and asked a member of staff to plonk it on the scales. Rather<br />
pricy, but absolutely superb quality. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.<br />
(10-35Lv). AGB<br />
Tambuktu B-4, ul. Aksakov 10, tel. 988 12 34, info@<br />
tambuktu.com, www.tambuktu.com. A concrete firstfloor<br />
cabin stuffed with palm trees and fish tanks, this is a<br />
flamboyantly kitsch setting in which to enjoy good-quality fish<br />
and seafood. The food is prepared in front of the customers<br />
and you can choose the fish from a special window display.<br />
The service is adequate and helpful. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(25-30Lv). PAW<br />
Serbian<br />
Pri Miro G-8, ul. Murphy 34, tel. 943 71 27/889<br />
512 964, www.restaurantmiro.com. Both Serbia and<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> share a similar culinary repertoire of grilled meats<br />
- it’s just that the Serbians do it with more style. The<br />
cevapcici (grilled meat rissoles) and pleskavice (minced<br />
meat patties) on offer at Miro’s are infinitely more succulent<br />
and spicy than anything you’ll find in a traditional<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n joint. Ajvar (a relish made from aubergines<br />
and hot peppers) makes the ideal accompaniment, and<br />
there’s an irresistible range of fiery plum brandies to wash<br />
it all down. Both service and atmosphere are classy, and<br />
an extra personal touch is provided by chef and owner<br />
Miro himself, who likes to circulate among diners to see<br />
who is enjoying what. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-12Lv).<br />
PLGBS<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaUrants<br />
Out of town<br />
Boyansko hanche H-6, pl. Sborishte, Boyana, tel.<br />
856 30 16, fax 955 04 61. Situated in the heart of<br />
the mountainside suburb of Boyana, not far from the<br />
historic Boyana Church, Boyansko hanche is a longstanding<br />
favourite among visitors, not least because<br />
it’s one of the handful of places in the capital where<br />
you can enjoy a reasonably authentic programme of<br />
folk songs and dances. Performances usually start<br />
at 9pm but not necessarily on every night of the<br />
week - so phone beforehand if you’re going specifically<br />
because of the music. The menu of traditional<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n fare with international-looking steaks doesn’t<br />
pull too many surprises, but doesn’t inspire many<br />
complaints either. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-15Lv).<br />
PTRILEB<br />
Chepishev H-6, ul. Ivanitsa Danchev 27, Boyana,<br />
tel. 959 10 10/0889 051 115, chepishev@netissat.<br />
bg, www.chepishev.com. Consistently good food and<br />
no-expense-spared interior design have helped make<br />
Chepishev one of the city’s landmark restaurants.<br />
Traditional-style fireplaces and natural materials such as<br />
stone, wood and wrought iron lend an air of cosiness and<br />
originality to the main dining room. There’s a panoramic<br />
summer terrace too, although proximity to the road<br />
detracts slightly from the desired romantic effect. The<br />
menu changes frequently, but always includes a choice<br />
of traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n dishes based on old family recipes,<br />
and a well-chosen selection of modern European<br />
fare. The home-made bread is a must. The wine list is<br />
one of the best in the city, and the restaurant famously<br />
claims to possess the biggest whisky collection in<br />
Eastern Europe - with over 800 brands listed, we’re<br />
not going to argue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (9-48Lv).<br />
PAILEW<br />
Lebed ul. Samokovsko shose 83, Pancharevo, tel.<br />
992 30 45, fax 992 34 65, info@restaurantlebed.<br />
com. Five kilometers south of the Coral Swimming<br />
Complex, Lebed (“The Swan”) was opened in 1961 as<br />
part of the preparations for that year’s World Student<br />
Games, and has enjoyed near-legendary status ever<br />
since. Once the place where <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s top pop stars<br />
used to entertain diners, it fell into decline until recent<br />
refurbishments provided the old bird with a new lease<br />
of culinary life. The menu (providing you can negotiate<br />
your way through the spelling mistakes) features a<br />
lot of seafood and freshwater fish, although prices<br />
are on the steep side and staff are not noted for their<br />
speed of service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40Lv).<br />
PALGBW<br />
Vodenitzata Dragalevtsi (next to the chairlift), tel.<br />
967 10 58/0888 818 518, fax 967 50 07, info@<br />
vodenizata.com. Housed in an old mill near the Dragalevtsi<br />
chairlift, Vodenitsata is one of those restaurants<br />
that’s a destination in its own right. The stone clad<br />
interior is crammed with folksy ornamentation, and the<br />
cuisine consists of superbly prepared and presented<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n classics. The breezy garden, complete with<br />
water features, turtles and fish, is a great place to while<br />
away a hot summer afternoon. Every night a folklore ensemble<br />
provides a thrilling repertoire of traditional songs<br />
and dances, occasionally featuring nestinari dancing<br />
on live coals - don’t try and join in no matter how many<br />
rakiyas you’ve had. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-20Lv).<br />
ALEB<br />
January - March 2009<br />
31
32 restaUrants<br />
Wine, beer, rakia or boza…<br />
what to drink in <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> has some typical drinks which can be found<br />
only here, and some that have a similar (but not the<br />
same) equivalent abroad. If you come to <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, we<br />
recommend you to try some of these:<br />
Alcoholic drinks:<br />
• <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wine, which is exported to many European<br />
countries. It is very tasty, with various sorts, some of<br />
which are typical only for this region. We recommend<br />
Mavrud (this sort of wine cannot be found anywhere<br />
else) – a strong dark wine, suitable for red meat and cold<br />
winter evenings. Despite the good quality, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wine<br />
is not expensive and is very appropriate for a present<br />
from a holiday in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.<br />
• <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n beer: many regions have their local beers,<br />
most of them with a typical genuine taste, so we suggest<br />
you choose from:<br />
Blagoevgrad Strumsko pivo<br />
Burgas Burgasko pivo, Slavena<br />
Lom Almus, Shopsko, Sofia<br />
Mezdra Ledenika, MM, Varna, Haberman<br />
Pleven Storgozia, Ataman, Pleven<br />
Plovdiv Kamenitsa (Light, Extra, Dark, Red and<br />
Soft), Astika<br />
Shumen Pirinsko, Shumensko<br />
Sofia Kmetsko (Light, Wheat, Red, Dark)<br />
Stara Zagora Zagorka, Ariana, Stolichno<br />
Veliko Tarnovo Nashensko, Balkan, Bolyarka<br />
• Rakia is often compared to brandy or tequila, but its<br />
not like anything else. Usually most <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns drink it<br />
in the evening, before or during the meal, accompanied<br />
by salad or pickles. It SHOULDN’T be drunk like tequila,<br />
but slowly, sipping, with delight. Most common types<br />
are grape and plum rakia. We recommend you also try<br />
the fig and pear rakia, if you have the chance, which is<br />
unusually aromatic.<br />
• Almond liquer (which is slightly similar to amaretto,<br />
but different). It is quite sweet and is recommended<br />
unlimited consumption; however reasonable drinking is<br />
extremely pleasant.<br />
• Mastika (similar to ouzo and absinthe, but should be<br />
drunk in a different manner: either with ayran or tarator<br />
(see <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n food section), or with mint liqueur (VERY<br />
good cocktail for sea evenings, however very strong and<br />
can be dangerous for inexperienced drinkers. Actually it<br />
doesn’t give you a feeling that you’re getting drunk; you<br />
just suddenly realize that this is a fact.) This drink contains<br />
anise and has a sweet flavour.<br />
Soft drinks:<br />
• Boza (actually with Turkish origin, but the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns<br />
drink it for so many years that it can be considered local).<br />
It is prepared from fermented wheat or millet. Its colour is<br />
beige and its taste is sweet-sour taste (some foreigners<br />
find it quite peculiar).<br />
• <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n yogurt (this is different from any other yogurt;<br />
people have tried to export the world famous lactobacillus<br />
bulgaricus (named so because it was discovered in<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>); the result was a different taste.)<br />
• Ayran (traditional local drink prepared from yogurt, salt,<br />
water, sometimes pepper). This is a very refreshing drink<br />
good both for heat and chill.<br />
Swiss<br />
Chalet Suisse G-9, bul. Botevgradsko shose 50, tel.<br />
0884 249 450, info@chaletsuisse.eu, www.chaletsuisse.<br />
eu. A must visit place for all cheese lovers. <strong>In</strong> case you are new<br />
to this kind of cuisine, no worries, the friendly staff will help you<br />
out and maybe even the Swiss owners themselves. They offer<br />
traditional Swiss cheese-fondue, Kirschli, swiss salads, Beundnerfleisch,<br />
deer steak, baked apples and more. The restaurant<br />
indeed looks like a Chalet with wooden seating. Once inside you<br />
will forget the surrounding neighbourhood blocks. Not far from<br />
the centre, on the road to Varna. After the Eko Petroleum gas<br />
station turn right, you can not miss it. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (8-25Lv.).<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Dream House B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 980 81 63,<br />
dreamhouse_bg@yahoo.com, www.dreamhouse-bg.<br />
com. This bright and cheery first-floor restaurant is initially<br />
a bit difficult to find: once you’ve entered the small shopping<br />
mall at ul. Alabin 50 you need to pass through the white door<br />
on your left and proceed up the murky stairwell. Dishes range<br />
from a deliciously delicate bamboo soup to savoury spinach<br />
balls, and tofu in various sauces. Flavours are on the bland<br />
side - our biryani needed a jug-full of chilli sauce to help it go<br />
down. On Sunday afternoons there’s an all-you-can-eat buffet<br />
for 7 leva. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (7Lv). PAGW<br />
Kibea C-3, ul. Dr. G. Valkovich 2A, tel. 980 30 67, www.<br />
kibea.net. There’s always at least one meat dish on the<br />
menu at this upmarket healthfood restaurant, but its the<br />
exquisitely prepared vegan and macrobiotic dishes that get<br />
top billing. The cool minimalism of the interior provides the<br />
perfect environment in which to focus on the classy concoctions<br />
which have made head chef Elliot Prag something of a<br />
local celebrity. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7-40Lv).<br />
PAG<br />
Have <strong>Your</strong> Say<br />
If you have had an experience to remember at any of<br />
the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly<br />
or downright sad, let the two million regular unique<br />
visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com,<br />
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its essential!<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
34 CafÉs<br />
Art Club Museum B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 980 66 64, museum2006@abv.bg.<br />
Hidden away in a semi-submerged annexe<br />
of the archaeological museum, this is the ideal place to take a<br />
breather between bouts of sightseeing. Alongside coffee and<br />
cakes there’s a full menu of salads, snacks and alcoholic drinks,<br />
making it a good spot for a leisurely lunch. Don’t leave without<br />
taking a look at the downstairs no-smoking area - with comfy<br />
chairs positioned beside artfully-lit Roman gravestones. It looks<br />
like a cross between a lounge club and a recently excavated<br />
tomb (although whether any wait-staff ever make it down here is<br />
another question). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PABW<br />
Before & After C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60<br />
88/0889 966 689, beforeandafter@abv.bg, ba.clubcabaret.net.<br />
With art-nouveau wall decorations, and furniture<br />
that wouldn’t look out of place in nineteenth-century<br />
Paris, this place is a world away from central Sofia. Expect<br />
coffee strong enough to give an elephant heart palpitations,<br />
luxuriant hot chocolate, and an appetizing range of salads and<br />
snacks. The place is frequently taken over by tango lessons<br />
in the evening, which helps explain the alluring photographs<br />
of buttock-waggling dancers adorning the walls. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (3.50 - 7.00Lv). PTJAR<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 4, tel. 988 53 07. Taking<br />
up most of the ground floor of the Grand Hotel <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, this<br />
is a comfortable and rather stately place in which to overdose<br />
on caffeine and sweets. Slightly more expensive than average,<br />
but well worth bearing in mind if you’re planning a posh citycentre<br />
rendezvous. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTJAW<br />
Coffee House B-4, ul. 6-i septemvri 1, tel. 986 66 12.<br />
Modern-style coffee-shop with a decent line in drink-in or<br />
takeaway espressos, lattes, mochas and the rest. Mouthwatering<br />
cakes and freshly-made sandwiches are superior<br />
to the standardised fare on offer at some of Sofia’s other<br />
high-street coffee shops. Vivid comic-book murals by graphic<br />
artist Yasen Zgurovski give the Coffee House an absolutely<br />
unique vibe. Also at H-8, Business Park Sofia. QOpen 07:30<br />
- 20:00. PJBW<br />
Costa Coffee B-3, ul. Aleksandar Batenberg 10B. This<br />
lovely place located close to the entrance of the City garden<br />
and Ivan Vazov National Theatre is part of the world famous<br />
coffee shop chain. Excellent coffee, cakes, easy listening music<br />
and the usual set of cafe snacks. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. PJABW<br />
Fix Mix C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 24, tel. 987 31 71, fixmix.<br />
culture@gmail.com, www.fixmix-culture.com. City-centre<br />
juice bar boasting over 30 different fresh-fruit concoctions. Drinks<br />
with names such as Berry White, Macy Grapefruit and Tangerine<br />
Cream should appeal to the music obsessives among you. The<br />
interior is as fresh and funky as the drinks, with citrus colours<br />
predominating, and a mixture of house and break-beat music<br />
provide a suitable snazzy soundtrack. You can choose to rotate<br />
on one of the silver swivel-stools at ground level or flop in one of<br />
the sofas situated on a raised platform. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJGSW<br />
Jimmy’s (Sladoledena kushta) C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev<br />
11, tel. 980 30 99, daskalova@jimmys.bg, www.jimmys.<br />
bg. This stylishly furnished little spot is the best place in town<br />
for grossing out on fresh, well-made ice cream. Some of the<br />
fancier items on the menu feature ambitious flavour combinations<br />
that don’t really come off, so it’s best to stick to the<br />
scoops you can see in the chiller cabinet. The mouth-watering<br />
range of cakes and hot drinks will not leave you disappointed.<br />
Home deliveries at tel. 854 88 88. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PTGBS<br />
Laguna (Vienski salon) C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 13, tel.<br />
980 30 01, www.laguna-bg.com. Welcoming two-tier café<br />
whose in-your-face kitsch furnishings will leave you grasping<br />
for words fit to describe them. Our editor compared this place<br />
to a mid-seventies Dr Who set, but his glamorous assistant<br />
was too busy screaming to take any notice. This is a great<br />
place to come and pig out on pancakes but not everything in<br />
the picture-book menu is quite as it seems: the non-alcoholic<br />
fruit cocktail drinks taste as if they’ve been poured straight<br />
out of a carton (but then with names like “Virgin Sex on the<br />
Beach” they seem destined to leave you unfulfilled). QOpen<br />
10:30 - 24:00. (4-10Lv). PJG<br />
Lavazza Club B-2, bul. Vitosha 13, tel. 987 34 33/0887<br />
979 890, www.clublavazza.com. Situated in downtown<br />
Sofia this place is already crowded since early in the morning.<br />
Its two floors, charming garden and young pretty waitresses<br />
obviously make it a preferred location by everybody from<br />
young couples to business people and foreigners alike. The<br />
menu list offers a big selection of coffee, cappuccino, cocktails,<br />
sandwiches and fresh pastries and creams. Yummy.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. PABW<br />
London Minute B-2, ul. Pozitano 7. <strong>In</strong>ternational-styled<br />
coffee and juice bar that’s perfect for jump-starting your day.<br />
Ciabatta sandwiches, muffins, cookies and more. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lucky (Vienska sladkarnitsa) C-5, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel<br />
21, tel. 943 33 44/0889 506 251. Bright, roomy<br />
and rather elegant café with a generous choice of fancy<br />
cakes and other sinful goodies. Floor-to-ceiling windows<br />
make this a good vantage point from which to observe the<br />
traffic pulsing across the Orlov bridge. Waitresses dressed in<br />
fetching Bulgaro-Tyrolean dirndls help to complete the picture.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PJAW<br />
Onda Coffee Break B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8, tel.<br />
987 49 20. This coffee bar is a bright, comfortable and really<br />
quite groovy place offering order-at-the-counter lattes,<br />
macchiatos, muffins, cookies, and other comfortingly familiar<br />
concoctions. Surprisingly for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, the sandwiches in the<br />
chiller cabinet are actually edible. The upstairs lounge comes<br />
with a great view of the Russian Church and its pimply bouquet<br />
of domes. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. (5-10Lv). PJGW<br />
Starbucks café C-4, Corner of ul. Gurko and bul. Vasil<br />
Levski, tel. 986 32 94. When you enter the newly opened<br />
Starbucks café you may forget that you are in Sofia - it looks<br />
exactly the way it looks all over the world and what you expect<br />
it to be - coffee aroma, young staff and loads of delicious cakes.<br />
There are seven tables outside, where even in winter you<br />
can enjoy your coffee break, despite the awful traffic around.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. PJGBW<br />
The Bookies C-1, ul. Dospat 37, tel. 851 90 87. Great<br />
little place directly across from the NDK, off Vitosha Boulevard.<br />
One of, if not the, finest gardens in Sofia. Beautifully<br />
enclosed just off the boulevard, the garden was designed<br />
by the owner and she has created a real beauty. Wooden<br />
2 seater swing, a couple of trees, plenty of sundry flora<br />
and greenery augment the directors chairs and sofas. It’s a<br />
beautiful sun trap too with some great shade. They knock<br />
up a fabulous Mojito, amongst other cocktails, and they do a<br />
really top coffee. The garden seats about 40. The bar inside<br />
is a lovely little place. It seats about 20 and has a real coffee<br />
house atmosphere with bookshelves on the walls. The locals<br />
will greet guests with open arms, and much fun has apparently<br />
been had down The Bookies. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 09:30 - 24:00. JBW<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Sofia is simply swarming with quirky watering holes, cool<br />
designer bars and dance-till-you-disintegrate clubs. Just<br />
try not to get carried away.<br />
Bars<br />
Adams Bar A-5, ul. Vrabcha 28. This is a small heavy<br />
metal pub in the centre of the capital. The heavy sound of<br />
thrash, death and black metal makes the stay there a real<br />
feast for the connoisseurs. Friendly staff, extensive variety<br />
of cold beer, foosball and darts guarantee the great mood<br />
of the guests. Usually between 20 and 22h it gets quite<br />
overcrowded.<br />
Adams restaurant B-2, Tsar Samuil 103 (The corner of<br />
ul. Pirotska ). This is a bar-restaurant with heavy metal music.<br />
Its location is very central - in the middle of Pirotska street<br />
market. The cuisine is very good, especially Tripe in butter.<br />
The atmosphere is friendly and cozy and food and beverages<br />
are not expensive. Just the opposite of luxurious.<br />
Apartament 52 C-3, ul. Parchevich 52, tel. 0896 652<br />
087. Sinking into the comfy corner sofas of this lounge bar is<br />
a pleasant way to end a hard day pacing the mean streets of<br />
central Sofia, although there never seems quite enough going<br />
on here to keep you for more than a couple of drinks. A good<br />
place to kick-start the evening before moving on elsewhere.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW<br />
Apartment C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68, tel. 0886 655 093.<br />
There’s nowhere else quite like this spacious, high-ceilinged<br />
nineteenth-century flat, each room of which is decked out with<br />
the kind of artworks and furnishings that you’d expect to find in<br />
the home of a slightly wacky friend. There’s an internet terminal<br />
in one lounge, play-your-own-vinyl DJ decks in another, and a<br />
space devoted to film projections too. If you want a drink, head<br />
for the kitchen to see who’s in charge of the fridge. There’s<br />
usually some form of exotic daytime snack food on offer: recent<br />
choices have included houmous with pitta bread, and platters<br />
of sushi. Be sure to try the delicious homemade chocolate<br />
desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JGBW<br />
Barabar B-5, ul. Shipka 43A, tel. 0886 787 982. This small<br />
but perfectly formed café-bar may well be a 15-minute walk<br />
east of the centre, but its cosy-living-room atmosphere makes<br />
it well worth seeking out. The vintage <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n film posters<br />
on the walls make a great change from the beer adverts and<br />
commercial logos cluttering up other establishments of this<br />
ilk. The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-Scottish bar crew serve up excellent toasted<br />
sandwiches too. On Fridays there is live music. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PE<br />
Basic C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel. 986 36 72. The welcoming<br />
array of deep white sofas will lure you into this stylish<br />
little spot just off ul. Rakovski - just make sure you don’t end<br />
up squatting on one of the cube-sized pouffes otherwise you’ll<br />
have backache come the morning. There’s an appetizingly<br />
wide range of cocktails and spirit shots, and the designer<br />
toilet is cool enough for even the sassiest of supermodels<br />
to feel proud to drop their pants in. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. AP<br />
Baskerville B-2, ul. Denkoglu 16, tel. 986 60 62, anipink@mail.bg.<br />
Take it easy, there are no mysterious dogs<br />
in this friendly and tastefully furnished small bar. We can<br />
imagine, though, Holmes and Watson sitting here and having<br />
tea while looking at the retro pictures hanging on the walls.<br />
Not the best place for a raucous Friday night out, perhaps,<br />
but perfect for a cosy intimate drink. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />
PJGBW<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
nIGHtlIfe<br />
Bilkovata C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 986 49 05.<br />
Hardly anyone remembers the herbal pharmacy which once<br />
stood here (Bilkovata means “The Herbal”), but the basement<br />
bar on this spot is one of the most frequented places<br />
in Sofia. It’s sparsely furnished, smoky, and overcrowded at<br />
weekends, but a combination of off-the-wall background music<br />
and gregarious drinkers lurching around help make it one of<br />
those cult Sofia locations that you have to visit at least once.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJBW<br />
Blaze C-4, ul. Slavyanska 36, tel. 0888 354 004. This<br />
brash, tight squeeze of a DJ bar has been around for years<br />
and never seems to be in danger of going out of fashion. If you<br />
are dying to meet young trendy locals then you’re in the right<br />
place here. Getting a drink at weekends can require superhuman<br />
patience, and waiting for the toilets can take some times<br />
so long that you’re on first-name terms with everyone else<br />
in the queue by the time you finally penetrate the porcelain<br />
sanctuary. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PW<br />
By The Way C-3, ul. Rakovski 166, tel. 980 38 36,<br />
bytheway@faria.bg. If you really care about the quality of<br />
your cocktails then this split-level bar is the place to come.<br />
The setting is stylish and cosy, and the high proportion of<br />
beautiful young things among the clientele makes it the<br />
perfect place for people-watching. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAW<br />
Cappuccino bar & dinner B-2, ul. Pozitano 8, tel.<br />
0896 645 362, www.barcappuccino.net. Despite its<br />
short life, Cappuccino seems destined to become one of the<br />
most crowded new additions to Sofia. Preferred for business<br />
lunches, dinners, parties or just for a cup of coffee or excellent<br />
cappuccino, the interior is a mixture of expensive Italian<br />
furniture with a classical combination of midnight black and<br />
crisp white, delicate lighting and enviable sound system. The<br />
long menu specializes in Italian dishes, complemented by an<br />
excellent selection of wine from all over world and a variety<br />
of cocktails, among the well-founded reasons this place will<br />
be sure to please even the most capricious visitors. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. PAGW<br />
Cargo B-3, ul. Saborna 11, tel. 986 46 46. A relatively<br />
recent addition to the Sofia lounge-bar scene, offering pretty<br />
much what you would expect from the genre: moody lighting,<br />
furnishings straight out of a lifestyle magazine, and a pair of<br />
DJ decks standing proudly in the corner. The dark tones of the<br />
décor and impressive range of spirit bottles behind the bar<br />
make this an excellent place to sink into a sofa for a couple<br />
of hours. QOpen 08:30 - 05:00. PAW<br />
Casa de Cuba E-2, ul. Tsvetna gradina 1, tel. 963 22<br />
97/0885 455 633, casa.de.cuba@gmail.com, www.<br />
casadecuba.bg. Cuban and other Latino music bursts out of<br />
every single loudspeaker this bar invested in, making it practically<br />
impossible to have a four way conversation around a<br />
small round table. The interior aims to provide an atmosphere<br />
of pre-Cuban revolution with hundreds of miniature B&W<br />
January - March 2009<br />
35
36 nIGHtlIfe<br />
pictures showing the ‘hero’s’ of these days. Seats are from<br />
comfortable to the wake me up when the bar closes category.<br />
Cocktails like Mojito and Cuba Libre could be mixed to the<br />
more traditional recipes with a little more alcohol. The place<br />
is spiced up by the cigar smoke picked from the “pura menu”<br />
list. The waitresses serve at pace the 60 in- and 20 outside<br />
places. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. PJABW<br />
Club 703 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 23, tel. 981 97 75. With<br />
its dim lighting, wine-red walls and hypnotically revolving ceiling<br />
fans, 703 has long been one of the best spots in the centre<br />
for a relaxed, leisurely drink. Black-and-white photographs of<br />
mid-twentieth-century events and personalities add an air of<br />
class to the place, although the vintage Lucky Strike posters<br />
overlooking the non-smoking section seem to be a deliberate<br />
challenge to ex-addicts - who will probably be biting the<br />
furniture in frustration. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PJ<br />
Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02<br />
03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. A large<br />
lofty space with matt black walls, slender silver pillars and<br />
soft-cushion sofas, Chillout’s new city-centre venture looks<br />
like an inviting cross between medieval khan’s reception<br />
chamber and twenty-first century living room. With the same<br />
menu as its sister bar on ul. Baba Nedelya, Chillout is a good<br />
spot for downtown lunch, although it’s the prospect of evenings<br />
spent gurgling one’s way through the cocktail list that<br />
holds out most promise. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PAW<br />
Chillout Lounge D-6, ul. Baba Nedelya 6, tel. 953 35<br />
04, club@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. Drinking<br />
in Chillout’s black, red and blue interior is a bit like living<br />
inside an abstract painting. The place certainly lives up to its<br />
name, however, thanks to the moody sounds emanating from<br />
the CD player and the laid back, glamorous-without-puttingtoo-much-effort-into-it<br />
clientele. The drinks menu includes<br />
some potent and inexpensive cocktails, and food (including<br />
toasted sandwiches and savoury wraps) is served until about<br />
10pm - at which hour DJs turn up and start upping the tempo.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PJABW<br />
McCarthy’s B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 0878 666 130,<br />
info@mc-carthys.com, www.mc-carthys.com. Finally an<br />
Irish bar run by authentic Irish men. Just 10m from Mc’Donalds<br />
(on bul. Vitosha), turn right into the arcade, the first door to<br />
the left - you will see the sign. Climb the stairs and you will<br />
dive right into the clamour of the cheerful crowd. It seems<br />
that time has stopped here - laughter, dancing and singing<br />
replace the hectic life outside. The place is cosy, decorated,<br />
the owners claim, as an old style Irish pub from the 70’s,<br />
no annoying TV-sets to keep you from singing along. Large<br />
windows present you with a “spy” view to the Court House<br />
and the busy Alabin street. Pints of beer, great atmosphere,<br />
cool people, live music on Sundays. This place is simply a<br />
must experience. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
PJEW<br />
Mediterrani C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 37, tel. 0897 931<br />
291. We’re not sure what they have to do with the Mediterranean,<br />
but the combination of whitewashed walls, black<br />
couches and mellow music put us in the right mood to embark<br />
on a relaxing evening of alcohol-oiled conversation. <strong>In</strong>itially<br />
a bit difficult to find: head into the courtyard of the Mamma<br />
Mia pizzeria and dive down the stairs to your immediate left.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAGW<br />
Motto B-4, ul. Aksakov 18, tel. 987 27 23, motto_bg@<br />
hotmail.com, www.motto-bg.com. The red-brick walls,<br />
comfy sofas and designer lampshades of this roomy bar and<br />
diner attain just the right mixture of snazziness and comfort.<br />
There’s a huge menu of cocktails and spirits, and a selection<br />
of light dishes if you’re hungry. The service lags, especially<br />
when the place fills up with Sofia’s fashionable set, but then<br />
you’ll never be short of beautiful people to look at. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 02:00. PAW<br />
Nero E-1, bul. Vitosha 180, tel. 953 10 01, fax 952 04<br />
39, nero@nerosofia.com, www.nerosofia.com. The übercool<br />
black and white interior looks a bit cold and unwelcoming<br />
at first sight, but once you’ve settled into your designer chair<br />
you’ll find this place as comfy and relaxing as style bars<br />
come. It’s certainly the only place in Sofia that has a huge<br />
vinyl-upholstered foot inside the door. The food menu includes<br />
some excellent pastas and risottos, although portions are on<br />
the teeny side. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PALGBW<br />
Opera B-4, ul. Rakovski 113, tel. 988 21 41, opera@<br />
mail.bg, www.opera-bg.info. This classy designer bar in the<br />
basement of the National Opera is well worth looking in on at<br />
the weekends, when DJs spin plastic and revellers flock round<br />
the bar. At other times it looks like a furniture showroom, with<br />
rigid lines of fancy chairs and couches and not many people<br />
sitting in them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAW<br />
Orisha bar & dinner B-2, ul. Solunska 50, tel. 953 32<br />
94/0886 31 88 91. This is a warm and welcoming place<br />
situated in the city center, near bul. Hristo Botev. The menu<br />
offers a wide range of cocktails from all over the world with<br />
vodka, whisky, rum, gin, tequila and champagne. Most popular<br />
of them are Bronx Perfect, Alabama Slammer, Original Singapore<br />
Sling and a favourite of the American writer, Hemmingway<br />
Special. The names of the food from the menu are long and<br />
descriptive, with exotic sounding words. Seafood and chicken<br />
dishes are predominant. The bar’s name is interesting. An<br />
Orisha (orixa) is a spirit reflecting a particular aspect of God<br />
in the belief systems of Candomble in Brazil, and Santeria and<br />
Luccumi in Cuba and Puerto Rico among others. A friendly<br />
owner as well as house and chill out music add to the cozy<br />
atmosphere. An excellent place for business meetings and<br />
private parties. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PW<br />
Tea House (Chay vav fabrikata) B-4, ul. Georgi<br />
Benkovski 11, tel. 0887 051 080. Located behind an<br />
unlikely-looking metal door (look for the sign hanging above),<br />
this combined café and art gallery is the perfect place to wind<br />
down over a brew. Yogi tea, of which innumerable varieties<br />
are available, seems to be the house favourite, although<br />
there are several beverages of a more alcoholic nature to<br />
get acquainted with too, Antique furniture and oil paintings<br />
combine with post-industrial design touches to produce a<br />
slightly distressed, bohemian vibe. There’s usually some form<br />
of non-mainstream music on the CD system (world music, jazz<br />
or similar), and an irregular programme of off-beat musical<br />
events. <strong>In</strong>dian-influenced vegetarian food makes a welcome<br />
appearance on Thursday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PE<br />
Toba&Co B-3, ul. Moskovska 6A, tel. 989 46 96. Head<br />
round the back of the National Art Gallery and you’ll come<br />
across this curious little café-bar, occupying the cast-iron<br />
pavilion in which the mercurial Tsar Ferdinand once kept his<br />
butterflies. The cocktails aren’t that great but who cares; everything<br />
else on the menu is perfectly drinkable, the wooden<br />
chairs add a dash of Parisian-café charm, and when DJs turn<br />
up they usually spin something more interesting than Top-40<br />
teen fodder. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. PB<br />
Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red Line) B-1, ul.<br />
Vladayska 27. This bar named after the movie Thin Red<br />
Line used to be on ul. Graf Ignatiev close to bul. Vitosha.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
They moved to a bigger place on two floors. One floor is up<br />
the stairs and has a rectangular bar. The other floor is down<br />
the stairs where most of the action takes place. The place<br />
is murky and is decorated with movie posters from the Lord<br />
of the Rings, The Abyss, The Raven and others. This bustling<br />
bar offers all kinds of alcohol and entertainment. There is a<br />
pool table, table football and a flat-screen TV always tuned to<br />
a sports channel. The music is alternative and rock from the<br />
90ies, sometimes they play hip hop, but you will definitely not<br />
hear MTV hits. The service is good and the stuff is friendly.<br />
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PG<br />
Upstairs C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 989 96 96, upstairs@<br />
uno-sofia.com, www.uno-sofia.com/upstairs. First-floor<br />
bar overlooking Sofia’s busiest downtown shopping street,<br />
with comfy lounge-bar furniture inside, and a line of stools<br />
along the verandah providing the perfect vantage point from<br />
which to observe the goings-on below. There’s a menu of<br />
fancy food, and a list of cocktails that runs to several pages.<br />
Glamorous without making too big a deal out of it, this is just<br />
what boulevard Vitosha needs. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 02:00. AW<br />
Pubs<br />
Amsterdam C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 38. A small metal<br />
club of 6 tables in a quiet street in the centre of the capital.<br />
<strong>In</strong> summer outdoor tables are also available. Varity of beers<br />
is offered at normal prices. However the menu is available<br />
only in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, but the owner of the place (usually residing<br />
there) speaks English and enjoys communicating with the<br />
clients. If clients are hungry, they can order grill dishes, or at<br />
lunch time they can try the lunch menu (soups and cooked<br />
meals). QOpen 10:00 - 22:30.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
nIGHtlIfe<br />
Bitburger C-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 20, tel. 981 96 65,<br />
fax 980 87 99, bitburger@einet.bg, www.bitburgerclub.<br />
com. German-designed beer-hall with German beers on tap<br />
and a loyal clientele of German-speaking expats. It’s also<br />
popular with the rest of Sofia’s international community,<br />
not least because it’s one of the best places in town for<br />
watching big-screen sporting events. There’s a good choice<br />
of international food on offer ranging from würst (German<br />
sausage) to big juicy steaks. Weekends are traditionally live<br />
music events. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00.<br />
PAEGW<br />
Flannagans B-4, Radisson SAS Hotel, pl. Narodno sabranie<br />
4, tel. 933 47 40, flannagans.sofia@radissonsas.<br />
com. Unusually for an establishment located on the ground<br />
floor of an international hotel, Flannagans succeeds in being<br />
a lively and welcoming venue, even if the prices are a touch<br />
more expensive than elsewhere in town. The draught Guinness<br />
and Kilkenny are well-kept enough to keep you coming<br />
back, and the menu of quality pub food is better than the<br />
fare offered by many of Sofia’s “international” restaurants.<br />
Major international sporting events are given the big-screen<br />
treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAW<br />
Irish Harp B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia 7, tel. 989 92 26, www.<br />
irish-harp.biz. Smart but slightly lived-in, and with friendly staff<br />
always ready to ask whether you need a refill, this is the kind of<br />
pub that you’ll find yourself drifting back to whether you’re eager<br />
for ex-pat chit-chat or simply in need of a relaxing drink. Murphys<br />
and Guinness on tap, and the fancy drinks and cocktails aren’t<br />
bad either. With several TV screens tuned to sports channels,<br />
this is an ideal place to catch live matches, or simply nervously<br />
await the incoming football results on Saturday afternoons.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJALEW<br />
January - March 2009<br />
37
38 nIGHtlIfe<br />
J. J. Murphy’s B-2, ul. Karnigradska 6, tel. 980 28<br />
70, fax 980 08 60. Restrained lighting, lots of dark-brown<br />
wooden furniture, and a variety of environments (you can<br />
either prop up the bar, watch football on the big screen, or<br />
sit in a quiet corner) all help make this place a comfortingly<br />
familiar home-from-home. They pull a mean pint of Murphy’s,<br />
and if <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cuisine has left you pining for Sheperd’s<br />
Pie, this is the place to tuck in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
PEGBW<br />
Magelan B-4, ul. Parizh 10. A very small rock pub (about<br />
3-4 tables) hidden in a basement of a building, just opposite<br />
to a noisy former restaurant called Barbeque COOP (reminding<br />
to us for the communist times). Quite a rich menu in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
is available in the pub, with a surprising variety of skillfully prepared<br />
and tasty at quite low prices. Nevertheless the lack of<br />
ventilation, the atmosphere is cosy and friendly, maybe due to<br />
the guitar, narghile, extravagant interior and mainly the young<br />
English-speaking staff. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. IB<br />
Clubs<br />
4km Party Centre G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 111,<br />
tel. 870 07 75, office@jetcat.bg, www.4-km.com. Cavernous<br />
club in a renovated military installation on the way<br />
to Sofia airport, with a huge main dance-floor and a smaller<br />
lounge-like bar. Attracts international house and techno DJs<br />
at weekends when admission fees rise accordingly. However<br />
it’s miles away from anywhere and there are no other bars<br />
or clubs in the vicinity - so you’d better check what’s on here<br />
before forking out for a taxi and waving goodbye to the rest<br />
of your wallet at the entrance. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission:<br />
10-30Lv. PLB<br />
Alcohol B-4, ul. Rakovski 127, tel. 0888 655 500. An<br />
unmarked passageway on ul. Rakovski leads down to this<br />
vast barn of a place, regularly filled to bursting with adrenalinecharged,<br />
hedonistically-inclined Sofians. An anything-goes DJ<br />
policy keeps the dance floor constantly packed. If it gets too hot<br />
and crowded you can always head for the chill-out room (to the<br />
right of the coat-check), where you can sprawl on oriental divans<br />
and puff away on a hookah pipe. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00.<br />
Babbles C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 980 65 79, www.<br />
babblesclub.com. Ultra-fab designer bar which looks like a<br />
space-ship, a children’s cartoon or a kooky Sixties’ film set, depending<br />
on how many drinks you’ve had already. It’s the brainchild<br />
of owner Kremena Halvadzhian, who also happens to be one of<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s top stylists. The lively atmosphere is backed up with<br />
house music supplied by popular <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n DJs. If the cheerful<br />
colours aren’t enough to cheer you up, you can resort to a classical<br />
cocktail or straight drink. QOpen 17:00 - 00:00.<br />
Black Box B-2, ul. Pirotska 5. Boasting three dancefloors,<br />
chillout area and V.I.P. lounge, Black Box is something of a<br />
haven for hard-core techno and drum & bass freaks - so<br />
if an after-work dance around the handbag is what you’re<br />
after then you’d be better off heading elsewhere. Most of the<br />
clientele appear to be under 20, but then Black Box’s sanitychallenging<br />
sound system and light show are something that<br />
you have to be in the flush of youth to endure. The club is only<br />
open when a specific DJ event is scheduled, so you really need<br />
to interrogate your in-the-know Sofia friends before making<br />
tracks. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.<br />
Brilyantin B-3, ul. Moskovska 3, tel. 986 31 12, www.<br />
briliantin.com. The name of this club is a tribute to the<br />
dancing skills of Travolta and Newton-John, as Brilyantin<br />
(“Brilliantine”) is the name by which Seventies’ musical<br />
Grease is known in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. However you’re unlikely to<br />
see any latter-day hep-cats jiving away in their best rockand-roll<br />
frocks - Brilyantin is actually one of Sofia’s prime<br />
hang-outs for stylish young professionals, wannabe media<br />
types and expensive-cocktail conoisseurs. Matt black surfaces,<br />
the odd mirror-ball and a crowd-pleasing mixture of<br />
retro, house and dance-pop are the order of the day. Hard<br />
to get into at weekends - when you might have to reserve<br />
a table or arrive soon after opening time. QOpen 17:00 -<br />
04:00. PJA<br />
Casinos<br />
Casino Hawaii D-3, bul. Cherni Vrah 31 Hemus Hotel<br />
Sofia, tel. 963 37 63. Located in the Hemus Hotel, this<br />
casino offers table games - roulette, black jack, Caribbean<br />
poker, and slot machines. The staff speaks English and<br />
alcohol is free. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P<br />
Casino London B-4, Radisson SAS, pl. Narodno<br />
sabranie 4, tel. 980 70 75, fax 980 30 66. Roulette,<br />
black-jack, poker and more. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
A<br />
Casino Princess F-7, Sofia Princess Hotel, bul.<br />
Maria Luiza 131, tel. 933 87 00, fax 931 00 61.<br />
Southeast Europe’s answer to Las Vegas. Just don’t go<br />
crazy. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Casino Rila B-3, Rila Hotel, ul. Kaloyan 6, tel. 981<br />
80 67, fax 981 82 48. 10 total table games, restaurant.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AK<br />
Casino Viva B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya<br />
5, tel. 986 35 01. Good choice of slot machines and<br />
table games. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Palms Merkur Casino F-9, Botevgradsko shose,<br />
bl. 2, tel. 0884 684 830, botevgradsko@lip.bg. Good<br />
choice of slot machines and electronic roulette. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. PO<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Buddha Bar B-3, ul. Lege 15A, tel. 989 50 06. There<br />
are so many Buddha bars around the world these days that<br />
the cross-legged sage is beginning to look more like the logo<br />
of a multinational leisure business than founder of one of the<br />
world’s great religions. The Sofia version offers just as much<br />
oriental kitsch as its namesakes but still succeeds in being<br />
a relaxing drinking spot - especially if you choose the chillout<br />
room with the hookahs. The DJ parties held here feature<br />
ethno, house and dance music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
PJALGB<br />
Cabaret C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60 88. The<br />
club is snugly sheltered in the basement of an old Art-Nouveau<br />
building which lends a particular old-time atmosphere reinforced<br />
by the stylish furniture and lighting. Musical styles<br />
include latino and retro-pop, drawing in a slightly older crowd<br />
than some of the techno-temples elsewhere. QOpen 19:00<br />
- 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAGW<br />
Club Liqueur B-3, ul. Pirotska 5 (corner with George<br />
Washington), tel. 0888 888 358, www.clubliqueur.<br />
com. The place plays retro, rock, evergreen, R&B and dance<br />
music. The decoration is modernistic with columns wrapped<br />
in silver, the bar and bar plots are illuminated, the high chairs<br />
are with leather seating. The overall luminous effects are<br />
state of the art in red, green and yellow. Occasionally there<br />
is live music. There are also special alcohol promotions for<br />
each day of the week. Just ask. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.<br />
Admission: 3-5Lv. The club offers:on Monday Students’<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
nIGHtlIfe<br />
party, on Tuesday - Black party and on Wednesday - BG<br />
music party. Sunday no admission fee, Thursday ladies go<br />
in for free. PJEW<br />
Club Sugar C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 1, tel. 0899 103 617,<br />
www.sugarclub.eu. Sugar is maybe the only “exclusive” Fri<br />
& Sat R&B and hip hop club in town. It has two rooms, with<br />
different DJ playing but sometimes, you never know when, there<br />
will be only the main room open. The crowd is quite young, so<br />
you might feel either in kindergarten or in heaven. There are 3<br />
video walls projecting all night movies or documentaries about<br />
R&B stars. The 2 bars are aways full and hard to get to, since<br />
the drinks are quite cheap and this certainly inspires drinking.<br />
People are definitely there to dance and show off their new MTV<br />
moves or if you are lucky electric and break dance style. Wear<br />
your party or “gangsta” style clothes to make sure you catch<br />
the eye. Excellent and welcoming surrounding for people of all<br />
races, fun is guaranteed. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. PJA<br />
Escape B-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 1, tel. 0889 990 000,<br />
www.clubescapebg.com. Escape boasts a huge dancefloor,<br />
four bars on two levels, a bone-grinding sound system<br />
and an energized, foxy clientele. Thursday is retro-disco night,<br />
while top-ranking house and techno DJs twiddle the knobs at<br />
weekends. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,<br />
Sun. Admission: 10Lv. PJAL<br />
Chervilo B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 9, tel. 981 66 33,<br />
maria@chervilo.com, www.chervilo.com. Ten-year-old<br />
Guidelines to <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n lifestyle, bars, clubs and discos<br />
1. Try not to stare at women that are accompanied by their<br />
boyfriends, no matter how beautiful they are, it might be<br />
taken as an insult.<br />
2. Try to avoid conflict if you notice <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n people stare<br />
at your wife/girlfriend, or at yourself, usually they will be<br />
just curious. Don’t forget some 19 years ago the majority<br />
of people didn’t even meet foreigners from beyond the iron<br />
curtain, so you are still new and exciting. Bravo!<br />
3. Don’t try to act overly macho, particularly in more provincial<br />
towns or cities. Unless of course you are Mike Tyson.<br />
4. When in a bar do not shout or insult the waiters or other<br />
staff members, it may be taken very deeply.<br />
5. If you feel that someone is in some way being threatening<br />
or intimidating to you, it is often best to befriend<br />
them. <strong>In</strong> many cases locals feel threatened by foreigners<br />
and try to show themselves as tough but when you act<br />
as equals and friends they will often almost immediately<br />
drop this façade.<br />
6. If however a conflict situation rises, leave immediately.<br />
Do not stay around and add on to the fire. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are<br />
very social and family driven and under a common goal a<br />
big group of people is summoned very fast.<br />
7. Good icebreakers are compliments on the country: The<br />
food, the football, the women, the inventions created by<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns such as the Cyrillic alphabet and so on. As additional<br />
benefit you might get an interesting story or two.<br />
Make them talk, they love it.<br />
8. Strong drinks (vodka, whisky etc.) come in quantities<br />
of 50ml for a small and 100ml for a large. <strong>In</strong> some places,<br />
unless you specifically ask for small you will be handed a<br />
large by default.<br />
9. Rakia must only be drunk with shopska salad. Don’t ask<br />
us why, it just should. If you order one without salad you<br />
may well be looked at as if you are from Mars.<br />
10. The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n for “cheers” is nazdrave, which literally<br />
means “to your health”. If someone proposes a toast (and<br />
this could happen innumerable times during the course of<br />
the evening) you have to clink your glass with absolutely<br />
everyone, no matter how many are sitting round the table,<br />
making sure to look in the eye at the point of clinking. If you<br />
fail to make eye contact, they will think you are disrespectful<br />
(or just an uninformed foreigner). The custom comes<br />
from ancient times. <strong>In</strong> days gone by kings, khans and<br />
other important figures would look deep into the eyes of<br />
the person they cheer to guess his intentions. Then they<br />
would bang their glasses so hard, so that a drop of each<br />
drink gets into the other (mixing the drinks would guarantee<br />
they are not poisoned).<br />
11. Be prepared to mix your own drinks. Whilst in England<br />
a “vodka and coke” means a nice mixed drink from the bar,<br />
in BG it means 1 vodka (most likely large) and 1 coke. Mix it<br />
yourself to your own perfect proportions. Cheers.<br />
12. Bring a gas mask. Many <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns are heavy smokers<br />
although this becomes less with new generations.<br />
Some bars can be closed in and stuffy places. Combine<br />
this with a crowd of 40 a day hardcore smokers and you<br />
get quite a fog.<br />
13. Take advantage of the hospitality of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n soul.<br />
You might be invited to dinners, parties, cocktail parties,<br />
promotions, etc. Generally <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns love foreigners.<br />
14. <strong>In</strong> bars you can not bring drugs, guns or other forbidden<br />
substances. Pretty much like most places you have<br />
been in your life.<br />
15. Big fat silver chains that you could anchor a boat with<br />
are an absolute must. That is if you want to appear young,<br />
cool, like a gangster or simply need to anchor a boat.<br />
16. If you are going out on a Friday night to a bar and<br />
want to blend in like a local, it is essential that you<br />
haven’t shaved for at least 3 days. Dressing entirely in<br />
black is a bonus.<br />
17. Girls, for you to catch the attention of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n men,<br />
just act natural and dress sexy.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
39
40 nIGHtlIfe<br />
Gay and lesbian Sofia<br />
There are now several centrally-located gay venues in<br />
Sofia. Most are friendly places catering for a wide clientele<br />
rather than special interests. Up-to-date listing of parties<br />
in bars and clubs can be found at www.gay.bg.<br />
One characteristic of Sofia’s gays and lesbian community<br />
is that many prefer to visit mixed clubs which are known<br />
for attracting a tolerant, open-minded crowd: Chervilo,<br />
Escape and Yalta (see our main “Nightlife” listings for<br />
details) are good examples of these.<br />
Adonis B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris 122, tel. 0898 305<br />
932. Cute little place specializing in Balkan folk-pop,<br />
popular with transvestites and a younger crowd. QOpen<br />
22:00 - 06:00.<br />
Club 18+ C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 846 82 54. Newish<br />
club on central Sofia’s main street with different DJ<br />
styles on different nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.<br />
Essence B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 29, tel.<br />
0899 998 666. Lesbian club with a wide spectrum of<br />
music. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.<br />
PGX<br />
Exit Club B-6, ul. Lavele 16, tel. 0888 140 133,<br />
www.exit-club.com. Bar & Diner. Cosy place with a<br />
variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails and a<br />
DJ-party every evening. Not to be confused with the Exit<br />
Club on ul. Suborna, which is completely straight. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 02:00. J<br />
Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980<br />
02 03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com.<br />
One of those mainstream but gay-friendly places that<br />
attracts a mixed tolerant crowd throughout the week.<br />
Dedicated gay DJ party every 2nd Saturday. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 04:00. PABW<br />
<strong>In</strong> Da Club C-2, ul. Samuil 33. Dedicated gay club with<br />
3 floors of music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Vital B-2, ul. Alabin 5, tel. 987 19 67. A key meeting<br />
point of long standing, functioning as a cool café in the<br />
daytime and transforming itself into a DJ bar from about<br />
8pm onwards. Club nights on Fridays and Saturdays<br />
frequently involve strip shows, cabaret and DJ-driven fun.<br />
Nice garden courtyard. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />
veteran of the Sofia clubbing scene that shows no sign of<br />
going out of fashion. Alongside leading <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n techno DJs,<br />
the club frequently hosts star guests from abroad, and attracts<br />
a correspondingly hip crowd. It is divided into three halls<br />
and though the major club nights are held in the Main Room,<br />
some infectiously off-beat DJ events take place in a smaller<br />
space, the cute Baby Box. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Sun. Admission: 5-20Lv. PJAEBW<br />
Life House B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 0888 241 016,<br />
www.clublifehouse.com. The name says it all - this is one<br />
of the top venues for house music in Sofia, with top local<br />
and international DJs doling out the beats. Design is postindustrial<br />
and service is of the kind usually experienced in<br />
Sofia clubs - slow but genial. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: 2-15Lv. PA<br />
PR G-8, ul. Cherkovna 87, tel. 0895 500 500, www.<br />
prclub-bg.com. Only a few months old and already seen<br />
as something of a jewel in Sofia’s night-life crown, PR offers<br />
stylish interior, six bars and an amazing lighting rig. Enjoyable,<br />
all-inclusive mix of house and retro-disco rhythms, enhanced<br />
by the presence of some of Sofia’s most cheerful and friendly<br />
staff. QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pulse Club A-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 089 852 01 50.<br />
This small and cozy night club offers a nice environment in<br />
which to escape from the outside world. Designed to keep<br />
you on the dance floor, the club consists of one bar and tables<br />
facing the dance floor. At the entrance of the club there are<br />
three bed - like sofas, where you can chill out on soft cushions.<br />
Make sure you don`t leave your drink unattended ( even on the<br />
bar ), as your half full beer bottle will be gone in no time and<br />
of course the bartenders will know nothing of its mysterious<br />
disappearance. The cloakroom is tiny, so don`t rely on having<br />
your coat hanging nicely. There are theme parties every<br />
Friday and they not only fill the place with a pleasant crowd,<br />
but they are also an atmosphere and experience you should<br />
not miss. For more information check our culture section.<br />
QOpen 22:00 - 08:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Retro club Gramophone B-3, ul. Budapeshta 6, tel.<br />
981 14 10/0878 146 353, retroclubgramophone@<br />
gmail.com, www.retroclubgramophone.com. One of the<br />
most popular Sofia’s downtown clubs, opened again with a<br />
new interior and a new program. The long bar is loaded with<br />
different brands of imported alcohol, including Johnnie Walker<br />
blue label. Lighting is with grade colours, fires burn down at<br />
the level of your legs and large white wings are spread high on<br />
the walls. From the DJ desk, already located next to the front<br />
door, you can hear different genres of music, depending on<br />
what day of the week you have chosen, for visiting the club.<br />
Overall, things look like this: hypnotized Monday, evergreen<br />
Tuesday, retro Wednesday & Thursday, light house Friday<br />
& Saturday, retro Sunday. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PJB<br />
Salsa plus B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 980 40 80/0888 50<br />
80 80, salsaplus@abv.bg. Somewhat appropriately hidden in<br />
an alley and down in a basement, this alternative dance club<br />
is a must for anyone who likes something different. Boasting<br />
a simple and bright decor, a small bar area, a clientele that<br />
varies in age and ethnicity and an open space for them to strut<br />
their stuff, at times you will actually feel like you are in South or<br />
Central America. There is a joyous spirt here that is infectious,<br />
thanks to the welcoming customers, many of whom sport traditional<br />
dress, who are here to express themselves to the sexy<br />
latino rhythm. You’ll possibly find someone to teach you a few<br />
steps or you can just sit back and enjoy what often turns into a<br />
real show. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P<br />
The Black Lodge B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 34,<br />
tel. 0887 425 400. Named after the famous fictional place<br />
of the cult TV serial Twin Peaks, the club is brand new and the<br />
only heavy metal club in Sofia. <strong>In</strong> front of the club there’s a big<br />
red sign which you can’t miss. Downstairs you will find a rather<br />
crowded, smoky place, divided into four parts. The rooms are<br />
in dark grey and black, with tattoo designs painted on the walls,<br />
all in the spirit of the classic heavy metal atmosphere, done<br />
professionally and with style. Prices are not the lowest, but you<br />
can be sure, that there will be no degenerates, who come here<br />
just to get drunk, but real fans of heavy metal music. If that’s<br />
you - this is your lodge. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. P<br />
The Blue Box F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 106. Blue Box -- Once a<br />
cinema, this hall can become a sweaty nightmare, when a show<br />
is attended by more than 50 people. If you are used to sauna<br />
temperatures and headbanging drunks, you will probably survive<br />
it…and become much stronger. QOpen 20:00 - 04.00. E<br />
Yalta B-4, bul.Tsar Osvoboditel 20, tel. 980 12 97/0897<br />
870 230, office@yaltaclub.com, www.yaltaclub.com.<br />
Sofia’s longest-running dance venue is still the best place to<br />
catch international DJs - there’s usually at least one big name<br />
jetting in every weekend. The recently revamped main chamber<br />
is closed on quiet weeknights, although the ground-floor bar<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
(open daily) is always worth a visit: anyone who remembers<br />
the space-station cafe scene from 2001: a Space Odyssey will<br />
find it curiously familiar. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.<br />
Folk clubs<br />
Folk in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> means chalga – the semi-oriental, shakeyour-booty-and-waggle-your-hands-in-the-air<br />
ethno-pop<br />
which is indigenous to the Balkan peninsula.<br />
Help B-2, ul. Hristo Botev 61, tel. 810 88 88, bgcinematrade@abv.bg.<br />
Housed in the Sin City entertainment<br />
complex, an expensively renovated former theatre, Help is<br />
the biggest and flashiest of the folk venues. There’s a lobby<br />
bar playing western dance-pop and an enormous main hall<br />
crammed with tables (reserve in advance if you want to be<br />
sure of one), with a mix of DJs and live musicians laying down<br />
chalga beats. Attracts dressed-up ladies and mean-looking<br />
macho types, so attire yourself accordingly. QOpen 22:30<br />
- 07:00. Admission: 5-30Lv. PALGBW<br />
NAI-klub B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 10, tel. 981 27 47,<br />
dani_nai@abv.bg. Prepare for visual and aural overload in his<br />
cavernous subterranean space, with cave paintings on the<br />
walls, leopard-print tablecloths, and four giant feet holding up<br />
the ceiling. A foundation-shaking selection of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and<br />
Serbian chart hits will have your hips swaying convulsively<br />
after a few drinks. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Admission: 3Lv.<br />
Ladies go in for free.<br />
Planeta B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 987 94 94, planetaclub@abv.bg,<br />
www.planeta-club.com. Not much in the way<br />
of fancy decor but hugely enjoyable nevertheless, with a house<br />
band moving room table to table, and belly-dancers shaking<br />
their assets in the direction of anyone who looks like a generous<br />
tipper. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 3-10Lv.<br />
Karaoke<br />
Backstage Karaoke Bar C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 100. A<br />
spacious club with wide variety of songs. Live concerts are<br />
also organized there. The style is predominantly rock. Prices<br />
are not very low but the entrance fee is modest. The club<br />
is divided into 2 halls, one of them with a pool table. Food is<br />
not available, except for nuts.<br />
Yesterday Karaoke Bar B-3, ul. Rakovski 82, tel. 981<br />
23 46, pianobar@mail.bg, www.pianobar-vchera.com. A<br />
nice small place underground in a noisy central street. The<br />
list of songs is quite rich and various: people can choose<br />
from MTV hits to French chansons, Russian chastushki,<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n pop music etc. However drinks are not very cheep<br />
and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n alcohol is not available. Sometimes it is far too<br />
overcrowded. An entrance fee of 2 lv is included in the bill at<br />
the end. You can sing karaoke there all nights except for Friday<br />
and Saturday. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. PW<br />
Live music clubs<br />
8th Ball A-4, Sv. sv. Kiril i Metodiy 27, tel. 0876 107<br />
722. This underground basement cavern is a place for hardcore<br />
punks, hooligans and all types of tattooed weirdos. It is<br />
the place where fast, noisy, unknown and mostly young bands<br />
play with fierce passion. Don’t mess with the bartenders,<br />
they are as local and as tough as you will never be. QOpen<br />
20:00 - 04.00. Admission: 4-5 BGN.<br />
B29 Piano Bar B-1, ul. Vladayska 29, tel. 952 06 65,<br />
b29@abv.bg, www.b29pianobar.com. A piano bar which<br />
really is a bar with a piano in it, featuring regular live perfor-<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
nIGHtlIfe<br />
mances by distinguished <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n ivory tinklers. Music ranges<br />
from relaxing cocktail-bar jazz to stomping R’n’B covers, when<br />
it’s time to cast your inhibitions aside and hit the dance-floor.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Admission: 7Lv. PAEG<br />
Back Stage B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 100. Sizeable club with<br />
a huge oblong bar, pool tables in the adjoining room, and a big<br />
stage at one end that hosts the big names of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n rock<br />
and pop. Wednesday night is blues night. QOpen 20:00 -<br />
04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 3-10Lv. EG<br />
Biblioteka Cool House - Piano Bar B-5, bul. Vasil<br />
Levski 88. This is a luxurious karaoke bar in the basement<br />
of the National library building. The list of songs offers mainly<br />
pop, rock, chill out and retro. Beverages are quite expensive.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. PAE<br />
Fans B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 114, tel. 0896 061 315, rockbarfans@abv.bg.<br />
Getting to Fans is an adventure in itself: go<br />
through the yard of the Chinese restaurant at bul. Vasil Levski<br />
114, down the spiral stairs, through the heavy curtain used<br />
instead of a door, and pay a man dressed as a cowboy to gain<br />
admittance. Once inside the semi-darkened interior you’ll find<br />
an enthusiastic beer-swilling crowd, and nightly performances<br />
by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n rockers, bluesmen and pop-rock cover bands.<br />
QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. PALE<br />
Social Jazz Club C-3, pl. Slaveykov 4, tel. 0884 622<br />
220. Buried beneath Sofia City Library is one of Sofia’s<br />
coolest music venues, offering a regular menu of live jazz<br />
including some top names from <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and the Balkans.<br />
Although there is standing space in front of the stage, it’s<br />
best to reserve a table if you want to watch the gig in comfort.<br />
The bar serves imported drinks only and prices are on the<br />
high side, so do remember to visit the cash point before you<br />
arrive. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. 5-15Lv.<br />
Swingin’ Hall D-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 8, tel. 963 06<br />
96, galswing@abv.bg. Currently the best place in town to<br />
catch local rock, blues, jazz and world-music acts, with a sixday-a-week<br />
programme of live music. With three bars, two<br />
stages, and a brick-lined, cellar-like interior, it’s a great place<br />
for a night out whoever is on the bill. Friendly party-inclined<br />
atmosphere draws musically-inclined Sofians of all ages, and<br />
a generous sprinkling of ex-pats. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission: 5Lv.<br />
The Club G-8, Nicolaus Copernicus 2, tel. 872 09 46,<br />
http://theclub-bg.com/. Once a cult rock club, this cozy<br />
2-store hut is where all good and professional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n musicians<br />
play. Close to the audience and with booze flowing from<br />
the bar. The owner is a respected <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n alternative rock<br />
musician and producer, so sound quality is indisputable. Q<br />
Admission: 10 BGN.<br />
Adult entertainment<br />
Angels Club B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5,<br />
tel. 987 15 30. Lots of nice dancing girls. QOpen 22:00 -<br />
05:00. Admission: 7Lv. PJAL<br />
Dolls G-7, bul. Dzheyms Bauchar 100, tel. 963 39 64,<br />
www.sofianights.com. Classy club with a long tradition, with<br />
a sizeable cast of dancing girls and a programme of erotic<br />
shows. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 7Lv. PA<br />
Taboo Club B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 12, tel. 987 08 70,<br />
www.sofianights.com. Plush environment in which to enjoy an<br />
array of lovely dancers. Fruit salad - served on a woman’s body -<br />
is the speciality of the house. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. A<br />
January - March 2009<br />
41
42 nIGHtlIfe<br />
Studentski grad<br />
Over 10,000 of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s brightest young things live in the<br />
grey and windswept blocks of Studentski grad (“Studentville”),<br />
a purpose-built suburb located some 7km southeast<br />
of the centre. Despite its housing-estate-at-the-end-of-theworld<br />
appearance, Studentski grad is one of the fastest<br />
changing places in the whole country, with flashy new bars,<br />
clubs and fast-food joints springing up almost daily to satisfy<br />
the voracious leisure-time appetites of Sofia’s hormonefuelled<br />
student community. If you feel like partying 24 hours<br />
a day, seven days a week, then this is the place to do it.<br />
If your mind is more focused on passing your exams and<br />
becoming a responsible member of society, however, you’re<br />
best advised to steer clear of the place altogether.<br />
To get to Studentski grad, take bus No. 280 from ul. Shipka<br />
(B-4) to the end of the line. A taxi back to town won’t break<br />
the bank.<br />
Avenue H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1A, tel. 0898 553<br />
086, complexavenue@abv.bg, www.complexavenue.<br />
com. Minimal decor, throbbing music and a wide selection<br />
of cheap alcohol help make this place something of a<br />
laboratory of scholarly self-destruction. One floor is devoted<br />
to western dance music, while the other concentrates on<br />
Balkan chalga-pop, so at least you get to sample both sides<br />
of the Studentski grad experience in one place. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. Admission: 3Lv. PLNW<br />
Bacardi Box H-8, ul. 8-mi dekemvri, tel. 968 19 11,<br />
i_sergeeva@abv.bg, http://bacardibox.com. Despite a<br />
sparse interior whose huge rectangular bar and numerous<br />
compartments leave little room for a dancefloor, Bacardi<br />
box has no problem packing in the booty-shaking, boogiehappy<br />
drinkers. With a winning formula that ranges from<br />
top-forty sounds to retro disco and chalga in the early hours,<br />
semi-naked dancers on the bar and really affordable prices,<br />
it’s no wonder this place is currently one of Studentski<br />
grad’s liveliest corners. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PLN<br />
Bar na kraya na vselenata H-8, Studentski grad,<br />
bl. 34B, tel. 962 55 41, office@vselenata.com, www.<br />
vselenata.com. The aptly-named “Bar at the End of the<br />
Universe” is on the northern fringes of Studentski grad<br />
and as such makes the perfect place to start or finish<br />
your intrepid crawl through Sofia’s outer reaches. Centred<br />
on a big circular bar surrounded by yellowy-orange walls<br />
perforated with holes, it looks a bit like a spaceship built<br />
out of Swiss cheese. Relaxed, friendly, and with a long<br />
list of cocktails and light meals. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />
PLNGXW<br />
Jim Beam Club H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 3, tel. 0895<br />
433 708, www.minimaxcomplex.com. Ultra modern interior,<br />
all red and black design, even down to the waitresses<br />
tight costumes, the spacious dance floor, state of the sound<br />
system and two enclosed bar areas all combine to make this<br />
a hopping nightclub. By 00:30 the place is packed. QOpen<br />
22:30 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. PA<br />
Marseille H-8, ul. Prof. Dr. Ivan Stranski 5, tel. 968 19<br />
79, fax 968 19 78, marsilia@sakar-marsilia.com, www.<br />
sakar-marsilia.com. This spacious, glass-fronted cafe-bar<br />
is guaranteed to fill up with slinky young creatures whatever<br />
the time of day or night. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />
Maskata H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 19, tel. 868 80<br />
79. This candle-lit post-industrial cattle shed of a place<br />
exudes a relaxing unpretentious vibe, although the disco<br />
hits emanating from the muddy sound system sometimes<br />
leave a lot to be desired. Maskata’s main selling point is the<br />
regular diet of live pop-rock. The size of the party depends<br />
on who is playing and how many fans they’ve managed<br />
to drag along. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. Admission: 3-5Lv.<br />
PALEGX<br />
Orient 33 H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1, tel. 0895 433<br />
702. Despite non-descript decor and unfriendly staff, the<br />
ear-splitting selection of Balkan folk-pop ditties at this<br />
popular chalga club keeps the public coming in droves.<br />
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv.<br />
Stroezha H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 23B, tel. 962 59<br />
77, stroeja@abv.bg, www.stroeja.com. A warren of<br />
nooks and crannies and plenty of lived-in furniture make<br />
this one of Studentski grad’s more laid-back drinking holes.<br />
If you like alternative rock, punk, ska and Britpop you’ll feel<br />
so at home here that you’ll probably never leave. Closed<br />
in August. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.<br />
The Net H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 38. With its brownbeige<br />
colour scheme and comfy geometrical furnishings the<br />
Net is one of those places that draw you in and keep you<br />
contentedly sipping away whether a quiet afternoon coffee<br />
or a raucous odyssey of nocturnal entertainment is on your<br />
mind. Good list of cocktails, and the shot menu comes<br />
highly recommended. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Toucan Bluzz & Rock H-8, ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov<br />
4, tel. 0887 098 164. Can white men sing the bluzz?<br />
If you like the idea of a subterranean beer hall combining<br />
live music with pool tables, a huge bar and a wide range of<br />
beers, then it’s well worth heading to Studentski grad to<br />
find out. Regular programme of rock and blues, and maybe<br />
the best karaoke in Sofia every Thursday night. QOpen<br />
21:00 - 04:00. Admission:3-10Lv. PNW<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Sofia may not have the grandeur of a great world city, but<br />
its tree-lined, frequently cobbled streets are chock full of<br />
absorbing oddities. As you’d expect for a town that’s over<br />
2,000 years old, the centre of Sofia is like a walk-through<br />
history lesson, with Romans, Byzantines, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>ns, Ottoman<br />
Turks and Soviet-inspired communists all having left<br />
their architectural imprint.<br />
Essential Sofia<br />
Alexander Nevski Memorial Church (Hram-pametnik<br />
Aleksandar Nevski) B-4, pl. Aleksandar Nevski,<br />
tel. 988 17 04. Built by Russian architects, inspired by the<br />
glories of ancient Byzantium, this multi-domed ecclesiastical<br />
monster has been Sofia’s visual trademark ever since its<br />
completion in 1924. It was built in memory of the Russia’s<br />
nineteenth-century contribution to <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s liberation,<br />
although the Aleksander referred to in the title,s is actually a<br />
medieval prince of Novgorod, who battled Teutonic Knights.<br />
Decorated from floor to ceiling with frescoes and illuminated<br />
by flickering candles, the vast interior is as atmospheric as<br />
they come. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily Liturgy - 08:00 and<br />
17:00; Vigil - Sat 18:30; Mass - Sun 09:30<br />
Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski muzey)<br />
B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 988 24 06, fax 988 24 05, aim.<br />
sofianet.net. Housed in a beautifully restored fifteenthcentury<br />
mosque, this attractive display of Thracian, Greek,<br />
Roman and medieval <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n artefacts is by far the most<br />
eye-pleasing museum that Sofia has to offer. Imposing chunks<br />
of Greek and Roman masonry are strewn around the main<br />
hall, while upstairs lie many of the headline-grabbing Thracian<br />
treasures, unearthed by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n archaeologists in recent<br />
years. Most mesmerizing of all is the solid gold burial mask of<br />
a fourth-century-BC Thracian ruler, excavated near the central<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n town of Shipka in summer 2004. A series of Orthodox<br />
church paintings depicting the life and martyrdom of St George<br />
run around the first-floor gallery, while a room full of exquisite<br />
medieval <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n jewelry looks contemporary enough to<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHat to see<br />
provide today’s designers with a rich seam of inspiration. The<br />
bilingual <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-English labeling is unusually thorough, and<br />
the collection is just the right size to be easily digestible in one<br />
trip. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv.<br />
Boyana Church (Boyanskata tsurkva) H-6, ul. Boyansko<br />
ezero 1-3, tel. 959 09 39, fax 959 29 66, nmbc@<br />
nmbc.orbitel.bg, www.boyanachurch.org. If medieval<br />
church art turns you on then the UNESCO-listed Boyana<br />
church will have you foaming at the mouth with excitement.<br />
Just about every square inch of the interior is covered with<br />
bible scenes and saintly portraits, rendered by thirteenthcentury<br />
artists. Nobody knows the identity of the painters,<br />
but their mastery of realistic depiction and sophisticated use<br />
of colour puts them on a par with Italian artists of the early<br />
Renaissance. It is a tiny church consisting of two parts: the<br />
oldest dates from the 10th century, when it served as the<br />
January - March 2009<br />
43
44 WHat to see<br />
chapel of Boyana fortress. A second floor was added in 1259<br />
by the Sevastokrator (or local governor) Kaloyan, who used<br />
the church as his family chapel. It was Kaloyan, who commissioned<br />
the frescoes for which Boyana church is famous.<br />
Restored in various stages over the past forty years, the<br />
main body of the church was never open to the public in its<br />
entirety until December 2006. Highlights include portraits of<br />
Kaloyan and wife Desislava dressed in sumptuous robes, and<br />
the earliest known portrait of the white-bearded St John of<br />
Rila, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s national patron saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />
Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including National History<br />
Museum: 12Lv. Visitors are admitted to the church six at a<br />
time, at ten-minute intervals, so be prepared to wait.<br />
National Museum of History (Natsionalen istoricheski<br />
muzey) G-6, ul. Vitoshko Lale 16, Boyana,<br />
tel. 955 76 04, fax 955 76 02, nim.pr@abv.bg., www.<br />
historymuseum.org. Located in a park-shrouded former<br />
government palace on the northern side of the Okolovrusten<br />
put (Sofia’s main ring road), <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s National History Museum<br />
offers a highly enjoyable chronological journey through<br />
at least eight millennia of human civilization on the Balkan<br />
peninsula. The building itself is a fascinating oddity, having<br />
served <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communist leaders as an official residence<br />
until 1989. If anybody ever launched a lifestyle magazine for<br />
would-be dictators, the marble halls and ornate ceilings in evidence<br />
here would make ideal front-page material.A sweeping<br />
staircase leads to the display areas, where the circular-shaped<br />
Neolithic Hall harbours vividly-decorated jugs and clay figures.<br />
Representations of the Earth Mother Goddess, dating from the<br />
sixth millennium BC include a fabulous pair of buttocks from<br />
the Sofia region. Next up is the Thracian room: unfortunately,<br />
many of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s most famous Thracian treasures are touring<br />
western museums at present, and it is not known quite when<br />
they will come home. However there is still plenty of Thracian<br />
gold- and silverware, fantastically decorated with mythical<br />
animals, to make a visit here worthwhile. Biggest disappointment<br />
is the medieval section, which is largely based on replicas<br />
of items kept elsewhere, or on photographs of ruined castles<br />
and churches throughout <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. It’s more of an educational<br />
theme-park than a serious museum display, but it certainly<br />
whets the appetite for further travel within the country. Upstairs<br />
on the second floor lies a knock-out display of brightly-coloured<br />
folk costumes and kilims, and a fascinating collection of posters,<br />
photographs and domestic nick-nacks documenting the<br />
social history of twentieth-century <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including Boyana<br />
Church: 12Lv. English-language tours cost 20Lv and can be<br />
booked in advance on tel. 955 42 80.<br />
Rotunda of St George (Rotonda Sveti Georgi) B-3,<br />
pl. Sveta Nedelya 2. Hidden away in a courtyard behind the<br />
Sheraton Hotel, this dainty red-brick doughnut of a building<br />
is the oldest surviving structure in the city, which still serves<br />
its original purpose. Built by the Romans in the fourth century,<br />
but much changed since, it’s justly famous for the twelfth- to<br />
fourteenth-century frescoes inside the central dome. It’s a<br />
powerful ensemble, with an all-powerful Christ looking down<br />
on successive circles of white-bearded disciples and holy<br />
men. Painted over during the Ottoman period (when the<br />
building was used as a mosque), these frescoes were only<br />
unearthed in the twentieth century. Admission: free, but<br />
donations appreciated. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Russian Church of St Nicholas (Ruska tsurkva)<br />
B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 3, tel. 986 27 15. Of all the<br />
places of worship in Sofia, this is the most vivacious, its<br />
green steeple and five golden domes outshining pretty much<br />
everything else on this central boulevard. Built just before<br />
World War I to serve Sofia’s Russian community and modeled<br />
on Muscovite churches of the sixteenth century, it looks as if<br />
a small piece of the Kremlin has been plonked in the middle<br />
of the Balkans. A path to the left of the main entrance leads<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
to the crypt, last resting place of Archbishop Serafim, who<br />
served as head of the Russian church in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in the early<br />
twentieth century. An enormously popular and pious man<br />
during his lifetime, Serafim is nowadays accorded almost<br />
saintly status by the Sofians, who come here to write prayers<br />
on scraps of paper which are then posted into a box next to<br />
his sarcophagus. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.<br />
Zhenski pazar A-2, A-3, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Zhenski<br />
pazar literally means ‘women’s market’, although people<br />
of all possible sexes, ages and pockets throng daily to this<br />
half-a-kilometre-long strip of street stalls lined on either<br />
side by poky shops. Fresh foodstuffs are the mainstay of<br />
the market, but you can also buy flowers, cheap clothes,<br />
household goods, ironmongery and more. There’s not much in<br />
the way of fancy goods or souvenirs, but the raw street-level<br />
vigour of the place makes it well worth a visit. It’s a location<br />
popular with pickpockets too, however, so take good care<br />
of your belongings.<br />
Museums<br />
Earth and Man National Museum (Natsionalen<br />
Muzey “Zemyata i horata”) D-2, bul. Cherni vrah 4,<br />
tel. 865 66 39, fax 866 14 57, earth.and.man@gmail.<br />
com, www.earthandman.org. Despite being housed in<br />
an impressively restored nineteenth-century arsenal, this<br />
geology collection is less dramatic than its title suggests,<br />
exhaustively cataloguing the earth’s minerals with rows and<br />
rows of rock-filled display cases. The outlandish, brightlycoloured<br />
quartz crystals on the ground floor just about make<br />
a visit worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Admission: 2Lv.<br />
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzey) B-3, pl.<br />
Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 988 41 91, fax 980 11 62,<br />
eim_bas@mail.bg, ethnography.cc.bas.bg. Scintillating<br />
displays of folk arts and crafts, drawn from the museum’s vast<br />
collection. Situated in the east wing of the former royal palace.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3Lv.<br />
Ivan Vazov Museum-House (Kashta-muzey Ivan<br />
Vazov) B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 10, tel. 988 12 70, vazovmuseum@slovo.bg.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s most revered literary figure, Ivan<br />
Vazov (1850-1921) is best known for writing Under the Yoke<br />
(Pod igoto), a sprawling novel detailing small-town <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
life at the time of the anti-Ottoman uprising of 1876. The<br />
house where he lived from 1895 until death is a charming<br />
period piece, with furnishings, crockery, bookshelves - and<br />
even the stuffed remains of Bobi the dog - pretty much preserved<br />
as Vazov left it. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00<br />
- 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission:<br />
1Lv. Lecture 3Lv.<br />
National Museum of Military History (Natsionalen<br />
Voennoistoricheski muzey) G-8, ul. Cherkovna 92, tel.<br />
946 18 05, fax 946 18 06, m.museum@bol.bg, www.<br />
militarymuseum.bg. A couple of display halls, stuffed with<br />
uniforms and weaponry, and a hugely enjoyable outdoor section<br />
featuring all manner of tanks, jet fighters and Soviet-era<br />
long-range missiles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue. Admission: 2Lv. Lecture: 10Lv.<br />
National Museum of Natural History (Natsionalen<br />
Prirodonauchen muzey) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel<br />
1, tel. 987 41 95, fax 988 28 94, www.nmnh.bas.bg.<br />
Rocks, insects, stuffed animals, creatures in bottles, and<br />
live reptiles slithering about optimistically in search of small<br />
mammals - so keep a firm grip on the kids. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Admission: 2Lv.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHat to see<br />
Galleries<br />
Icon Gallery B-3, in the crypt of the Aleksander Nevski<br />
Memorial Church, tel. 981 57 75. Stunning collection of<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n icons from the medieval period to the nineteenth<br />
century. Portrayals of horse-riding warrior saints such as<br />
George and Demetrius are particularly prominent: they served<br />
as potent symbols of struggle and survival during the long<br />
centuries of Ottoman rule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission: 4Lv.<br />
Sofia City Art Gallery B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 987 21 81,<br />
sghg2@bgnet.bg, www.sghg.cult.bg. The Sofia City Art<br />
Gallery possesses some of the richest collections of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
art: 3500 paintings, 800 statues, 2800 graphtics and drawings.<br />
The Contemporary Art and Photography department was<br />
founded in 2004. With 1100 square meters of exposition space<br />
divided into four compartments the Gallery arranges some 30<br />
exhibitions every year. Most of the exhibitions display works<br />
from the Gallery’s collections. <strong>In</strong> addition visiting one-man,<br />
group and general exhibitions of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n and foreign artists<br />
are arranged. Studies on present-day art and work with young<br />
artists became a special focus of the Gallery’s policy in recent<br />
years. Sofia City Art Gallery is a museum with long-standing<br />
traditions. Its role is to present the facts of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n cultural<br />
history in an analytical and modern way and to actively intervene<br />
in art developments by original and impressive projects.<br />
We recommend you to visit also the Vaska Emanuilova Gallery,<br />
branch of the Sofia City Art Gallery B-5 bul. Yanko Sakuzov 15,<br />
tel. 944 11 75, www.veg.cult.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
National Art Gallery<br />
National Art Gallery (Natsionalna hudozhestvena<br />
galeria) B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1,<br />
tel. 980 33 25, sofim@abv.bg. The country’s flagship<br />
collection occupies one half of the former royal palace,<br />
where creaky parquet floors and ornate stuccoed ceilings<br />
provide the perfect environment in which to peruse an<br />
all-embracing overview of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n painting. Strikingly,<br />
canvases are hung in the middle of the room rather than<br />
on the walls round the sides. Look out in particular for the<br />
works of Vladimir Dimitrov-Maistora (1882-1960), whose<br />
pictures of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n peasant girls surrounded by apples,<br />
apricots and other fruit have a timeless, spiritual quality<br />
reminiscent of Orthodox icons. If you have a hankering<br />
for more modern stuff then head for the ground-floor<br />
galleries, where temporary exhibitions of contemporary<br />
art are staged. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission: 3Lv.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
45
46 WHat to see<br />
National Gallery of Foreign Art<br />
National Gallery of Foreign Art (Natsionalna<br />
galeria za chuzhdestranno izkustvo) B-4, pl.<br />
Aleksandar Nevski 1, tel. 988 49 22/980 72 62,<br />
ngfa@abv.bg, www.foreignartmuseum.bg. Wideranging<br />
collection of work by fair-to-middling artists you<br />
probably haven’t heard of before. You’ll come across one<br />
or two famous names if you look closely enough, but much<br />
of the best stuff is of a small-format variety (a pastel by<br />
Renoir here, a lithograph by Picasso there) - so it would<br />
be unwise to come here with high expectations. There’s<br />
a fourth-century Roman tomb in the basement (labelled<br />
“room 19” on the museum plan), but it’s not always open.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Tue. Admission: 4Lv.<br />
Guided tours in English: 15-30Lv (Monday free).<br />
Churches<br />
Holy Sunday Church (Tsurkva Sveta Nedelya) B-3,<br />
pl. Sveta Nedelya, tel. 987 57 48. The main city-centre<br />
church and the preferred venue for Saturday-afternoon<br />
weddings, this nouveau-Byzantine structure is the twentieth-<br />
century incarnation of a church that has stood on this spot<br />
since medieval times. It has long been associated with the<br />
miracle-working bones of Serbian king Stefan Urosh, which<br />
are still kept in a wooden box to the right of the iconostasis.<br />
It is popularly believed that certain female health problems<br />
can be cured by leaving an appropriate piece of underwear<br />
in the box for 24 hours (and if you want to test this out<br />
you should really contact the priest, not us). The church’s<br />
other claim to fame is the flamboyantly ambitious terrorist<br />
attack that took place here in 1925, when left-wing activists<br />
attempted to bomb the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n royal family while<br />
they were attending a funeral. A huge explosion destroyed<br />
much of the church and killed 100 mourners, but the royals<br />
escaped unscathed. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily liturgy<br />
08:30 and 16:00.<br />
Church of St Petka of the Saddlemakers (Tsurkva<br />
Sveta Petka Samardzhiyska) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost.<br />
It’s not often that you come across a fourteenth-century<br />
church stranded in the middle of a semi-submerged shopping<br />
mall, but this is the fate that befell St Petka when Sofia’s<br />
post-war planners decided to run a two-lane highway round<br />
either side of it. <strong>In</strong>congruously surrounded by glass-fronted<br />
souvenir shops, it’s a delightful, cramped space that feels<br />
more like a damp cave than a church, and features some<br />
faded sixteenth-century frescoes.<br />
Church of St Sofia (Tsurkva Sveta Sofia) B-4, ul.<br />
Parizh 2, tel. 987 09 71. A church since the fifth century<br />
and rebuilt many times since, this was used as a mosque<br />
during the Ottoman period and then abandoned when an<br />
earthquake rendered it unsafe for services. With most of its<br />
medieval decorations and frescoes lost, it’s a comparatively<br />
plain church by Sofia standards, but the patterned brickwork<br />
provides the interior with enormous visual appeal. A fragment<br />
of original Roman mosaic flooring, preserved under a pane<br />
of glass in the right-hand aisle, stands in testimony to the<br />
church’s ancient origins. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Church of the Holy Seven (Tsurkva Sveti Sedmochislentsi)<br />
C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev, tel. 987 80 23.<br />
One of Sofia’s most handsome neo-Byzantine churches, with<br />
twentieth-century towers and domes tacked on to a much<br />
older central core - which served as an Ottoman mosque<br />
(then briefly as a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n prison) before reverting to its<br />
original ecclesiastical function. The church honours ninthcentury<br />
Saints Cyril, Methodius and their five followers - who<br />
brought literacy to the Slavs and propagated Christianity<br />
throughout Eastern Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily<br />
liturgy 08:00 and 17:00<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Mosque<br />
Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,<br />
bul. Maria Luiza. The last surviving mosque in Sofia still in<br />
use, the building consists of a large dome and an elegant<br />
minaret and takes its name from the neighbouring Central<br />
Baths - Banya Bashi literally means ‘many baths’. Dating<br />
from 1576, the mosque is said to have been designed by<br />
Hadji Mimar Sinan, the leading Ottoman architect of the day.<br />
The mosque fell into disuse during Communist rule but is now<br />
open for worship once again - you can hear the loudspeakers<br />
on the minaret calling the Muslims of the city to prayer five<br />
times a day. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist<br />
attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times,<br />
including women, if modestly dressed.<br />
Synagogue<br />
Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983<br />
12 73, fax 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@mail.orbitel.<br />
bg, www.sofiasynagogue.com. Dating from 1909, this<br />
extravagant building is a fitting monument to the community<br />
that once made up one fifth of Sofia’s population.<br />
Jewish leaders are widely thought to have dissuaded the<br />
Turks from torching the city in 1878, and the respect they<br />
commanded among their fellow citizens probably explains<br />
why they felt able to erect such a joyously extrovert piece<br />
of architecture right beside Sofia’s main street. Viennese<br />
designer Friedrich Gruenanger mixed Byzantine and Moorish<br />
styles to produce a huge domed building flanked by<br />
decorous turrets. Dominating feature of the interior is the<br />
2250kg chandelier hanging from the cupola, surrounded by<br />
Art Nouveau-inspired wall decorations. The synagogue was<br />
originally built to accommodate around 1300 worshippers -<br />
nowadays attendance figures at services hover around the<br />
50-60 mark. The Synagogue gives certificates for kosher<br />
(ehsher) for food and other products and offers, on request,<br />
kosher and other traditional Jewish Sephardic dishes. On<br />
the 2nd floor the Synagogue hosts The Jewish Museum of<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHat to see<br />
History, tel. 983 14 40, jewishmuseum@shalom.bg, Open<br />
9:00-12:30 and 13:00-16:00. Closed on Sat, Sun. Lectures<br />
in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, English and Hebrew are included in the entrance<br />
fee - 2Lv. Displayed are two permanent exhibitions “The<br />
Jewish communities in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>” and “The Holocaust and the<br />
rescue of the Jews in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>”. QThe Synagogue is open<br />
08:30 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Sofia districts-Boyana and<br />
Dragalevtsi<br />
Uphill For The Riches<br />
Crawling all over the body of the Vitosha Mountain, the<br />
neighborhoods of Boyana and Dragalevtsi are getting<br />
bigger and more densely populated as bigger, better<br />
and more expensive homes are being built, almost<br />
overnight. They are both situated to the south of Sofia,<br />
after the Ring road and climb up to a considerable<br />
height. These living areas are occupied mostly by<br />
wealthier people, government officials and politicians<br />
and are considered as the best and most expensive to<br />
live in. Of course, some contradicting sights as a huge,<br />
expensive and modern house with a decaying street,<br />
spotted with gaping holes, in front of it are quite common.<br />
The inclination of the landscape and the mountain<br />
itself, present some problems for the locals, especially<br />
in winter, when cars slide and people are tumbling down<br />
the frozen streets. However, both neighborhoods exist<br />
above the level of the city smog and just a single look<br />
to the grey clouds down there would make everybody<br />
envious of the local citizens. Local landmarks and<br />
historical sights are the monastery in Dragalevtsi and<br />
the Boyana Church, which is a part of the UNESCO World<br />
Heritage List and definitely a compulsory place for all<br />
tourists to visit. The National Historical Museum is also<br />
located in Boyana, on the premises of the residence<br />
of the former dictator Todor Zhivkov. Boyana is also<br />
famous for the Film Center, which is used for local and<br />
many foreign film productions.<br />
Hopefully Boyana and Dragalevtsi will soon improve as<br />
infrastructure and become a modern and elite suburban<br />
area of Sofia.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
47
48 WHat to see<br />
Statues<br />
Aleksandar Stamboliyski B-4, Corner of ul. Rakovski<br />
and ul. Vrabcha. Leader of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n National Peasants’<br />
Party, and Prime Minister from 1919 to 1923, Aleksandar<br />
Stamboliyski presided over a radical government that promised<br />
fair land distribution and a revival of village life. Conservative<br />
circles feared a peasant revolution, and Stamboliyski<br />
was overthrown, tortured, and chopped into several pieces by<br />
paid killers - it’s a shame that nothing like this ever happened<br />
to Todor Zhivkov. Stamboliyski’s statue now stands beside<br />
the Opera House (strangely, both the National Opera and the<br />
National Peasants’ Party share the same building).<br />
Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi B-5, Sofia University, bul.<br />
Tsar Osvoboditel 15. The Georgiev brothers made their fortunes<br />
in nineteenth-century Odessa, then used their wealth to<br />
fund the establishment of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-language schools. Their<br />
place in the country’s cultural pantheon assured, they now<br />
bask beside the steps of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s biggest university like a<br />
pair of contented walruses.<br />
Monument to Holy Wisdom (Statuya na Sveta Sofia)<br />
B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Once occupied by a behemothsized<br />
statue of Lenin, this prime city-centre site was left vacant<br />
throughout the 1990s, and it wasn’t until the millennium<br />
that this 24-metre-high bronze goddess - an allegory of “Holy<br />
Wisdom” - appeared on the spot. The city of Sofia originally<br />
got its name from the Church of Sveta Sofia (“Holy Wisdom”)<br />
in the centre, and this statue was intended to symbolize the<br />
connection. However it was far from clear how an abstract<br />
concept like “Holy Wisdom” could be portrayed in a sculpture<br />
(is it a bird? is it a plane? is it a 24-metre-high bronze woman?),<br />
and Sofians remain unsure whether this shiny female with a<br />
dove in her right hand really fits the bill.<br />
Monument to the Tsar Liberator (Pametnik Tsar<br />
Osvoboditel) B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie. This 14-metrehigh<br />
lump of bronze designed by Italian artist Arnoldo Zocci<br />
honours Russian Tsar Alexander II who, by declaring war on<br />
the Ottoman Empire in 1877, liberated <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in the process.<br />
The reliefs surrounding the pedestal represent a scene in<br />
which the godess of victory leads troops into battle.<br />
Ugly Sofia<br />
Monument to the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n State (Pametnik<br />
na balgarskata darzhava) C-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Sofia<br />
is probably unique in Europe in being the only capital<br />
which can boast a decaying pile of junk as one of its<br />
major downtown focal points. Unveiled in 1981 to mark<br />
the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
state, this unimaginably shoddy memorial is an eloquent<br />
metaphor for much that has happened in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in the<br />
intervening 25 years. It was barely a decade old when it<br />
started falling to bits, and the question of who should pay<br />
for its refurbishment (or demolition) has been the object<br />
of inconclusive bickering ever since.<br />
An angular piece of modern sculpture with statues<br />
emerging absurdly from its summit, the monument has<br />
long been the object of popular scorn - “the seven-angled<br />
thing with five pricks” being the most enduring of its many<br />
nicknames. Currently surrounded by hoardings to prevent<br />
bits of it from falling on the heads of passers by, its future<br />
remains uncertain.<br />
The empty space in front of the National Gallery<br />
B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenbeg. The empty space<br />
in front of the national gallery stands in eloquent tribute<br />
to the vacuous posturing of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s post-communist<br />
rulers. The building that used to stand on this spot<br />
was one of socialist-era Sofia’s principal landmarks, a<br />
mausoleum, built to house the corpse of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s first<br />
communist leader Georgi Dimitrov. Dimitrov’s body was<br />
removed in 1990, but arguments about how it is best to<br />
use the building itself, dragged on for a decade. Eventually<br />
the right-wing government of Ivan Kostov decided<br />
to blow the mausoleum up, believing that such an act<br />
would somehow symbolize <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s triumphant march<br />
towards democracy. President, prime minister and foreign<br />
dignitaries assembled to view the demolition in January<br />
2000, only to discover that repeated detonations failed to<br />
bring the mausoleum down. Eventually the crowds drifted<br />
away, and the bulldozers were brought in.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHat to see<br />
Petko and Pencho Slaveykovi C-3, pl. Slaveykov.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s foremost father-and-son literary duo perch on a<br />
bench beside the square that, appropriately enough, now<br />
hosts Sofia’s biggest book market. Educationalist, politician<br />
and writer Petko Slaveykov (1827-1895) did much to preserve<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n literature’s links with its folkloric roots; while his son<br />
Pencho (1866-1912) took things a step further by penning<br />
modern verse influenced by Romanticism, Symbolism and<br />
other modish western currents.<br />
Popa C-4, corner of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Patriarh<br />
Evtimiy. This rather unpretentious statue of a bearded<br />
ecclesiastic honours Patriarch Euthymius (Patriarh Evtimiy in<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n), the fourteenth-century church leader who presided<br />
over the flowering <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culture before being led into<br />
captivity by the Ottoman Turks in 1393. It’s nowadays the<br />
most popular meeting point in the city - if you’re going on a<br />
date or a bar crawl, the chances are you’ll rendezvous here.<br />
“Popa” is <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n slang for “priest”.<br />
Stefan Stambolov B-4, Corner of bul. Tsar Osvoboditel<br />
and ul. Rakovski. Prime Minister from 1887 to 1894,<br />
Stefan Stambolov was the most talented - but also the<br />
most controversial - politician of his generation, pursuing<br />
pro-western liberal policies while at the same time locking up<br />
opponents and silencing the press. Sacked by Prince Ferdinand<br />
in May 1894, he was hacked to death on ul. Rakovski<br />
by sword-wielding assassins 12 months later. This curiously<br />
egg-shaped sculpture sprouting from a corner of Kristal park<br />
serves as some kind of tribute.<br />
St St Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril i<br />
Metodiy) B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 88. Standing proudly in<br />
front of the colonnaded façade of the National Library, these<br />
January - March 2009<br />
49
50 WHat to see<br />
Socialist Sofia<br />
As with many authoritarian regimes throughout the<br />
ages, <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communist rulers suffered from an<br />
overweening desire to turn politics into a highly visible<br />
part of the urban landscape. Government buildings were<br />
conceived as grandiose statements of political order,<br />
while statues of socialist heroes employed simple, often<br />
childlike imagery to teach important ideological lessons.<br />
Despite the demolition of many communist landmarks<br />
after 1989 (notably the rotund statue of Lenin that once<br />
rose like a malevolent iron pig above the central pl.<br />
Nezavisimost), present-day Sofia still boasts a compelling<br />
collection of sites where you can examine socialist<br />
art at first hand.<br />
Friendship Bridge (Most na druzhbata) C-4,<br />
crossing of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Evlogi Georgiev.<br />
Built in 1953 to symbolize brotherhood between <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
and the Soviet Union (a relationship in which one brother<br />
was always bigger than the other), this bridge boasts an<br />
impressive ensemble of sculptures, with statues representing<br />
the peasantry, the intelligentsia and the armed forces.<br />
Most telling inclusion is the pair of nineteenth-century<br />
Russian and <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n soldiers on the north-eastern pier:<br />
a clever piece of propaganda suggesting that the Soviet<br />
Union’s “liberation” of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> in 1945 was simply a repeat<br />
performance of the Liberation of 1878.<br />
Mound of Brotherhood<br />
(Bratska<br />
mogila) G-8, Borisova<br />
gradina. Many of<br />
the artists responsible<br />
for the Soviet Army<br />
Monument also worked<br />
on the Mound of Brotherhood,<br />
a 42-metrehigh<br />
obelisk that rises<br />
dramatically from a<br />
ridge in the south-eastern<br />
corner of Borisova<br />
gradina park. Built in<br />
1956, it is intended to<br />
commemorate those<br />
who fought and fell in<br />
various stages of the struggle against fascism - from the<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n communist uprising of September 1923 (a badlyplanned<br />
affair that culminated with most of the participants<br />
being rounded up and shot) to the Red-Army offensives of<br />
World War II. A monumental statue of machine-gun-toting<br />
partisans stands at the base of the obelisk, while basreliefs<br />
on either side portray striking workers, and Soviet<br />
troops being greeted by <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n civilians.<br />
Soviet-style fresco E-4, wall of a school on ul. Sveti<br />
Naum. Hidden from the street by a politically-prudish pair<br />
of trees, this is one of the few examples of agit-prop art<br />
still to be found in the city. The fatherly face of Lenin beams<br />
down from one side of the wall, while a ruggedly handsome<br />
cosmonaut smoulders away quietly on the other.<br />
Soviet Army Monument (Pametnik na Savetskata<br />
armia) C-5, Orlov most. Built in 1954 by a team of<br />
architects and artists working under Danko Mitov, this<br />
is one of the best examples of socialist sculpture in<br />
the Balkans, and also one of the most controversial. A<br />
skyline-dominating 34-metre-high pillar, it is crowned by a<br />
flamboyant statue of a Red Army soldier, leading a <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
couple towards the Promised Land of communism. Bronze<br />
bas-reliefs on either side of the pillar show scenes from the<br />
October revolution, World War II battles, and Soviet troops<br />
entering <strong>Bulgaria</strong> to be greeted joyfully by the locals. <strong>In</strong> 1993<br />
Sofia City Council voted to destroy the monument, pointing<br />
out quite rightly that it symbolized <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s subservience<br />
to a foreign power. Faced by opposition from the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
Socialist Party, and discouraged by the potential cost of<br />
its demolition, the Council had no choice but to leave the<br />
monument as it is. For much of the last decade the area<br />
around the monument has become the favoured meeting<br />
point of Sofia’s skateboarders, although construction work<br />
on the Sofia metro has recently encroached on their space.<br />
Turn up on important dates like May 9 (the anniversary of<br />
Germany’s surrender in 1945) or September 9 (anniversary<br />
of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s communist-led coup in 1944) and you’ll probably<br />
see die-hard communists gathering at the monument<br />
to demonstrate their undying faith in the cause.<br />
Statues outside Vasil Levski Stadium C-4, bul.<br />
Evlogi Georgiev. Authoritarian regimes have frequently<br />
exploited the popularity of sport to build a cult of strength,<br />
discipline and order. Produced by a team of sculptors in<br />
the mid-fifties, these idealized statues outside the main<br />
entrance to the stadium are perfect examples of this cult<br />
in action. Depicting footballers, athletes, gymnasts and<br />
other examples of socialist achievement and perfection, the<br />
statues were originally eight in number. An empty pedestal<br />
marks the spot where one of them went missing, presumed<br />
stolen, in the mid-1990s.<br />
The Party House (Partien dom) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost.<br />
Sofia may lack the bombastic baroque skyscrapers,s<br />
bestowed by Stalin on Moscow and Warsaw, but the<br />
local ruling caste did at least make an effort with this<br />
custard-coloured neo-classical edifice at the end of pl.<br />
Nezavisimost. Built to house the Communist Party Central<br />
Committee, it once sported a massive red star atop its<br />
rocket-like spire - when protesters attempted to torch the<br />
building in August 1990, the star was hastily removed. The<br />
building now provides office space for <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n MPs.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
ninth-century monks from Thessaloniki are celebrated for<br />
their invention of an entirely new alphabet, which they used<br />
to translate the holy gospels into the Slav languages. Subsequently<br />
modified by their disciples, the alphabet is nowadays<br />
known as Cyrillic, and is used in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus,<br />
Macedonia and Serbia as well as in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> itself.<br />
Other sights<br />
National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets na<br />
kulturata) D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 916 68 30, www.ndk.<br />
bg. Opinions differ as to whether the “largest multifunctional<br />
complex in southeastern Europe” is an attraction or an eyesore,<br />
but its dominating position at the southern end of bul. Vitosha<br />
makes it difficult to miss. Built in the 1980s this hexagonal lump<br />
of concrete and glass looks like a child’s building block inflated<br />
to unearthly size. <strong>In</strong>side lie thirteen concert halls of varying<br />
sizes, fifty-five congress rooms, and innumerable offices, The<br />
basement level now accommodates a cramped shopping mall<br />
stuffed with inexpensive clothes and accessories.<br />
The Central Baths (Tsentralna banya) B-3, bul.<br />
Maria Luiza. Built in 1911 and decorated with exquisite tile<br />
mosaics, this wonderful Art Nouveau-cum-Nouveau Byzantine<br />
bathhouse is for many people the most beautiful building<br />
in the capital. Derelict for many years and now undergoing<br />
restoration and will probably re-surface in the near future as<br />
a luxurious SPA and fitness center, so all this mineral water<br />
will not run wasted.<br />
The Central Military club (Tsentralen voenen klub)<br />
B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 988 17 46. This three<br />
storey monumental building, designed in the neo-renaissance<br />
style , houses a cafe, an art gallery, 2 refined halls and an<br />
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WHat to see<br />
impressive concert hall. The plase looks like a palace and the<br />
concert hall used to be a ball room. Even though it is not a<br />
regular club keep your eyes and ears wide-open for any event<br />
which might take place there, and consider yourself fortunate<br />
if you have the chance to attend one. The concert hall is often<br />
rented out for private party events and it is guaranteed that<br />
each one will be prestigious.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
51
52 WHat to see<br />
Mount Vitosha<br />
Vitosha Mountain is the closest to Sofia skiing<br />
location. It’s just about half an hour uphill. The climate is<br />
fairly mild, however, it can become quite cold above 1200<br />
meters. There are two peaks, which are more than 2000<br />
meters high, including Cherni Vrah – Vitosha’s champion,<br />
and 18 peaks are more than 1500 meters above sea<br />
level. There are 13 ski tracks of varied difficulty - the<br />
easiest are Polyana, Lale (educational) and Zelena Pista;<br />
the moderately difficult tracks are: ski path “Laleto”, Sinya<br />
pista, Cherni vrah, Laleto 3; it is difficult to ride on: Diagonala<br />
1, Diagonala 2, Stenata, Laleto 1 and very difficult<br />
on the runs Kozirkata na Bobi, and Laleto 2. The most<br />
hard working of you, who just can miss those morning<br />
hours on the job also have the possibility for practicing<br />
their favorite sport - there is a ski track for night skiing – “<br />
Vitoshko lale”. You can get there by bus, by car and by the<br />
so called mini buses.<br />
Lift lines:<br />
Simeonovo – Aleko chalet – 8.30 – 16.30 (bus lines<br />
122 and 123)<br />
Dragalevtsi – Bay Krastyo – Goli Vrah – 8.30 – 16.30<br />
(bus line 93)<br />
The prices varied from 35.00Lv per day to 147.00Lv<br />
for 6 days lift pass. The lift passes are valid for all of<br />
the facilities in the Aleko ski zone, except Dragalevki lift.<br />
Sofia bridges<br />
When you walk through Sofia downtown two bridges can<br />
fix your eyes not with the large rivers, which runs under<br />
them, but with their architectural values.<br />
Lavov Most (Lions’ Bridge) over the Vladaiska River<br />
is well known with its four lions statues placed on high<br />
pedestals. It was built in 1889-1891 by Czech architect<br />
Václav Prošek, his brother Jozef and his cousins Bohdan<br />
and Jiří. The bridge was built from stone at the place of an<br />
older bridge called Sharen most (“Motley Bridge”) because<br />
it was decorated with red and yellow stripes. The name of<br />
the bridge comes from the four bronze sculptures of lions,<br />
its most recognizable feature. All metal elements of the<br />
bridge were produced by the Austrian company of Rudolph<br />
Philipp Waagner, and electric lights were installed in the<br />
early 1900s. The entire construction of the bridge cost<br />
260,000 golden leva which amounts to approximately 1<br />
433 425,97 EUR today.The Prošek family also designed<br />
and built the similar but eagle-themed Orlov most marking<br />
the city centre’s eastern border in 1891.<br />
Orlov most (Eagles’ Bridge) is well distinguished by its<br />
four bronze eagles, which are facing the four directions of<br />
the world and are mounted on 12-metre pylons. Perlovska<br />
River runs under the bridge in the city center. The bridge<br />
is located in the immediate proximity to the Vasil Levski<br />
National Stadium, the Monument to the Soviet Army and<br />
the park Borisova gradina. The bridge connects Sofia<br />
downtown with Mladost quarter and also you can go<br />
through it if you want to go to Sofia airport or to go out<br />
into the Trakia highway to Plovdiv. The entire construction<br />
of the bridge cost 80,000 golden leva which amounts to<br />
approximately 440 800 EUR today.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
The Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2. Directly<br />
opposite the archeological museum is the entrance to the<br />
suite of offices where the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n president does his<br />
nine-to-five job, guarded by soldiers dressed in ceremonial<br />
nineteenth-century uniforms. The changing of the guard, which<br />
takes place on the hour, involves a lot of ritualistic marching<br />
about, and is well worth watching.<br />
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WHat to see<br />
Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Built at the<br />
same time as the Central Baths and in similar architectural<br />
vein, this indoor market hall boasts some beautifully restored<br />
period features - notably the glass roof, cast iron pillars and<br />
Victorian clock tower. Delicatessen stalls at ground level and<br />
fast food counters upstairs ensure a constant stream of visitors.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
53
54 Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />
Public transport<br />
Sofia is amply covered by an interlocking network of trams,<br />
buses and trolleybuses, with services running from about<br />
05:00 to 23:30. Despite some new additions to the fleet,<br />
however, vehicles tend to be antiquated, filthy, overcrowded<br />
and above all slow: it can take half a lifetime to cross the<br />
city from one side to the other. An additional problem is<br />
posed by the lack of information concerning routes - while<br />
bus and tram stops in the city centre are marked with<br />
numbers of services and details (in Cyrillic) of destinations<br />
served, those in the suburbs are invariably rusty old shacks<br />
bearing no information whatsoever. <strong>Your</strong> only hope is to<br />
buy a decent city map with tram and bus lines marked on<br />
it - then study it for as many months as it takes to learn<br />
them all by heart.<br />
Single-journey tickets cost 1Lv and can be bought from street<br />
kiosks or from the driver. Once on board each ticket must<br />
be validated by punching it in one of the primitive pronged<br />
machines positioned near the doors of the vehicle. A strip<br />
(talon) of 10 tickets costs 7.50Lv but take care to use them<br />
in sequence - tickets numbered 1 to 9 are not valid unless<br />
you’ve still got the tenth one in your possession. Officially,<br />
you’re supposed to punch an extra ticket for each large item<br />
of baggage, but in practice this is rarely enforced - except<br />
on buses to and from the airport. <strong>In</strong>spections are frequent<br />
and there are spot-fines for fare-dodgers - officially 10Lv,<br />
although unscrupulous inspectors delight in making foreigners<br />
pay more.<br />
Passes valid for one day (karta za edin den - 4Lv), or one<br />
month (karta za edin mesets - 50Lv), are also available - but<br />
they can only be bought from kiosks at major stops, not<br />
from the driver.<br />
Minibus<br />
Several popular cross-town routes are operated by privately<br />
owned minibuses (marshrutki). Rather than being limited to<br />
specific stops, they can be hailed at any point along their<br />
route, and will drop passengers off on request. There aren’t<br />
any tickets: simply jump in, press yourself into an available<br />
corner, and pass 1.50Lv forward towards the driver.<br />
Many people prefer marshrutki to regular buses because<br />
of their speed and convenience; others are turned off by<br />
the tendency of drivers to pack passengers in like sardines<br />
and then career around the city like crazed drag racers. If<br />
you’re in any way prone to travel sickness, don’t forget to<br />
take a puke bag.<br />
Metro<br />
A single metro line runs from Serdika station in the city<br />
centre to the western suburb of Lyulin - which is great if<br />
you happen to live in Lyulin, but not much use otherwise.<br />
If you fancy a ride just for the heck of it, tickets (1Lv) are<br />
different from those used in trams and buses, and can<br />
only be purchased from ticket counters in the underground<br />
stations themselves.<br />
Trains<br />
Central Station (Tsentralna gara) F-7, bul. Mariya<br />
Luiza, tel. 931 11 11 / 932 33 33 (information in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
only). English-language timetable information on<br />
www.bdz.bg. Despite recent renovation Sofia’s main train<br />
station remains a dispiritingly dingy hive, comprising two<br />
Domestic train schedule<br />
From Sofia To Sofia<br />
Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.<br />
06:30 08:27 PLOVDIV 06:00 08:37<br />
06:38 09:40 PLOVDIV 06:30 10:09<br />
08:30 10:48 PLOVDIV 07:00 09:18<br />
10:40 13:04 PLOVDIV 08:00 10:20<br />
13:45 16:05 PLOVDIV 08:30 10:50<br />
14:15 17:16 PLOVDIV 11:45 14:20<br />
15:30 17:29 PLOVDIV 12:00 15:07<br />
16:30 18:29 PLOVDIV 13:00 15:34<br />
16:55 20:20 PLOVDIV 14:10 17:30<br />
17:30 19:52 PLOVDIV 15:40 18:17<br />
18:35 20:50 PLOVDIV 17:25 20:30<br />
19:10 21:10 PLOVDIV 18:10 20:46<br />
22:40 01:10 PLOVDIV 19:40 21:55<br />
06:30 12:27 BURGAS 05:30 11:40<br />
07:10 14:00 BURGAS 06:55 14:20<br />
10:40 18:00 BURGAS 10:40 18:17<br />
13:45 20:52 BURGAS 14:20 21:15<br />
16:00 22:14 BURGAS 15:40 21:55<br />
22:20 07:07 BURGAS 22:15 05:35<br />
07:05 13:38 RUSE 06:00 12:34<br />
07:45 14:05 RUSE 08:02 14:58<br />
09:55 17:16 RUSE 11:15 18:54<br />
15:30 21:48 RUSE 13:10 20:36<br />
19:30 02:05 RUSE 15:20 21:33<br />
23:00 05:41 RUSE 21:55 06:30<br />
23:35 07:11 RUSE 23:30 06:00<br />
07:05 14:04 VARNA 07:55 14:58<br />
09:55 17:55 VARNA 09:20 18:17<br />
10:40 19:15 VARNA 10:55 18:54<br />
13:25 21:18 VARNA 12:40 20:36<br />
21:10 05:25 VARNA 21:40 06:00<br />
22:20 06:43 VARNA 22:30 06:30<br />
23:35 07:45 VARNA 23:05 07:25<br />
For further information call tel.932 42 80<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational train schedule<br />
From Sofia To Sofia<br />
Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.<br />
07:01 12:54 THESSALONICA 17:34 23:25<br />
17:05 22:52 THESSALONICA 23:49 06:30<br />
07:45 17:19 BUCHAREST 12:16 21:33<br />
19:30 05:44 BUCHAREST 20:04 06:00<br />
11:55 19:18 BELGRADE 07:50 17:40<br />
21:20 04:48 BELGRADE 21:15 07:15<br />
19:10 08:19 ISTANBUL 22:00 10:50<br />
For further information call tel.932 42 80<br />
� The Sofia<br />
telephone code is: 02<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Flight schedule<br />
floors of queue-clogged ticket counters, functional cafes<br />
and hole-in-the-wall shops. Brightening things up considerably<br />
is the flirty little steam engine (built by the German<br />
Henschel company in 1918) parked right in the middle of<br />
the main ticket hall.<br />
Always allow plenty of time to buy your tickets and board<br />
your train: platforms are often numbered differently to<br />
the tracks running either side of them, so you may find<br />
yourself scuttling up and down several stairways in an<br />
effort to locate your train. Tickets to Varna and northern<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> are sold in the main ticket hall; tickets to Burgas<br />
and southern <strong>Bulgaria</strong> are sold in the basement. <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
tickets are sold by the Rila office, which is located<br />
at the end of a corridor leading off the main ticket hall to<br />
the left as you enter.<br />
Tickets can be bought in advance from two locations in the<br />
city centre: Transport Service Centre, in the basement<br />
shopping mall of the National Palace of Culture (NDK), tel.<br />
932 42 80. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun,<br />
and Railway Ticket Agency Rila /international lines/,<br />
ul. Gurko 5, tel. 987 07 77. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:30.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />
From Sofia To Sofia<br />
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />
1-34-67 07:00 09:00 AMSTERDAM FB 1-34-67 10:40 14:10<br />
-2--5-- 09:50 11:50 AMSTERDAM FB -2—5-- 12:50 16:30<br />
1-3---- 07:00 08:15 ATHENS FB 1-3---- 09:00 10:15<br />
----567 18:15 19:30 ATHENS OA 1----67 16:10 17:25<br />
1234567 16:10 16:30 BUDAPEST MA 1234567 13:05 15:25<br />
12345-- 09:30 10:15 BUCHAREST FB 12345-- 10:55 11:40<br />
12-45-- 06:15 07:45 FRANKFURT LH 12-45-- 10:35 13:50<br />
1------ 09:20 10:50 FRANKFURT FB -234567 18:30 21:55<br />
----5-- 10:25 11:55 ISTANBUL FB ----5-- 12:55 14:30<br />
123---- 10:45 12:00 ISTANBUL TK 123---- 08:30 09:45<br />
1234567 07:45 09:15 LONDON FB 1234567 10:30 15:30<br />
1234567 14:30 15:45 LONDON BA 1234567 08:35 13:45<br />
-2-4-6- 12:45 13:55 MILAN WA -2-4-6- 19:35 22:35<br />
1234567 20:40 21:50 MILAN AZ 1234567 07:05 17:00<br />
-----67 07:00 08:00 MUNICH LH 1234567 09:30 12:30<br />
-2----- 13:10 14:10 MUNICH LH 1234567 13:00 16:00<br />
1-3-5-7 07:55 10:00 PARIS FB 1-3-5-7 11:40 15:30<br />
1234567 15:05 17:00 PARIS AF 1-345-7 10:20 14:05<br />
1234567 06:50 07:45 PRAGUE OK 1234567 07:25 09:00<br />
1234567 15:10 16:05 PRAGUE OK -2-456- 11:30 14:25<br />
1-3-5-7 06:10 07:10 ROME WA 1234567 13:05 16:00<br />
1234567 08:45 09:35 VIENA OS 1234567 10:50 13:30<br />
12345-- 17:50 18:40 VIENA OS 1234567 13:40 16:20<br />
1234567 15:20 16:05 VIENA OS 1234567 17:55 22:25<br />
1234567 14:40 15:35 WARSAW LO 1234567 11:00 13:55<br />
Airlines codes: AF- Air France, AZ- Alitalia , BA - British Airways, FB - <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Air, LH - Lufthansa, LO - Lot Polish Airlines,<br />
MA - Malev Hungarian Airlines , OA - Olympic Airlines, OS - Austrian Airlines, OK - Czech Airlines, RO - Tarom Romanian<br />
Airlines, TK - Turkish Airlines, WA – Wizz Air<br />
For further information call tel. 937 22 11, 937 22 12 www.flybulgaria.bg<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Bus schedule<br />
To Burgas - 07:00, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30, 09:45, 10:00,<br />
10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 15:00, 15:30,<br />
16:00, 16:30,16:45, 17:00, 18:00, 20:30, 22:30, 23:00,<br />
00:00, 00:30<br />
To Bansko – 07:30, 08:30, 09:45,11:25, 13:15, 14:00,<br />
16:45<br />
To Ruse – 06:15, 07:00, 08:00, 08:30, 09:30, 10:30,<br />
12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 14;30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00,<br />
17:00, 17:30, 18:30, 19:00, 22:00<br />
To Varna – 06:30, 07:30, 07:45, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00,<br />
09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00,<br />
14.30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17;30, 18:00, 19:00, 22:30,<br />
00:00, 00:30<br />
To Veliko Turnovo – 06:15, 06:30, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30,<br />
09:00, 09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30,<br />
14:00, 14:30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30, 18:00,<br />
19:00, 22:30, 00:30<br />
To Sandanski – 07:40, 07:55, 09;00, 10:00, 10:40,<br />
11:20, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00,<br />
17:00, 18:00<br />
To Melnik – 14:00<br />
For further information call tel. 0900 210 00<br />
January - March 2009<br />
55
56 Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />
Buses<br />
Central Bus Station (Tsentralna avtogara) F-7,<br />
bul. Maria Luiza 100, tel. 0900 21 000, fax 813 31<br />
44, www.centralnaavtogara.bg. Opened in 2004,<br />
Sofia’s sparkly glass-fronted bus terminal is everything<br />
that the train station fails to be: bright, clean, and well<br />
furnished with toilets, cafes, and nappy-changing areas so<br />
delightful that we almost wish we still wore them. Finding<br />
out where to buy a ticket can be a bit of a hassle: a main<br />
ticket counter handles most services, but there are over<br />
40 smaller sales desks serving individual bus companies<br />
- some of these offer a wide range of popular destinations<br />
in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> and abroad, while others operate a once-in-ablue-moon<br />
service to Outer Mongolia and precious little<br />
else. An information desk near the entrance may direct<br />
you to the ticket desk you require, but only if the staff are<br />
in a good mood.<br />
There are plenty of companies here offering direct services<br />
to European cities: doing international trips by bus is usually<br />
faster and more comfortable than by train. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Ovcha kupel G-6, bul. Ovcha kupel 1, tel. 955 53 62.<br />
Several domestic services to destinations south of Sofia<br />
(such as Dupnitsa, Rila Monastery and Melnik) leave from<br />
Ovcha kupel bus station, 5km southwest of the centre. To<br />
get there take tram No. 5 from ul. Alabin or tram No. 19 from<br />
the Central Station. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30.<br />
Trafik-Market F-7, bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 29 79.<br />
Many international bus services (including plenty to Macedonia<br />
and Greece) leave from this parking lot immediately to<br />
the west of the Central Bus Station. There’s a timetable board<br />
detailing departures, a confusion of kiosks selling tickets for<br />
individual services, and plenty of shops and cafés. There<br />
aren’t any other facilities on offer here, but as you’re only<br />
a stone’s throw away from the train and bus stations, this<br />
shouldn’t be a hardship.<br />
Yug G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 23, tel. 872 23 45. This<br />
hard-to-find bus station hidden beneath a road bridge is the<br />
place to catch buses to the town of Samokov southeast of<br />
Sofia, which is in turn the main jumping-off point for the ski<br />
resort of Borovets. To reach the bus station take tram No.18<br />
to the Hotel Moskva and walk the remaining 400m down<br />
Dragan Tsankov. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Airport<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport (Letishte Sofia) G-9,<br />
bul. Christopher Columbus 1, tel. 937 22 11/937<br />
22 12, public@sofia-airport.bg, www.sofia-airport.<br />
bg. Located 10km east of the city centre, Sofia Airport<br />
consists of two terminals, the grotty Terminal 1 and the<br />
recently opened Terminal 2. Aeroflot, Alitalia, Air France,<br />
Austrian, <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Air, British Airways, Lufthansa etc. fly<br />
from Terminal 2 and the low-cost companies EasyJet, Sky<br />
Europe, Wizzair, My air, etc. fly from Terminal 1, so doublecheck<br />
which terminal you need before setting out (the<br />
terminals are not within walking distance of each other).<br />
Budget airlines<br />
Germanwings , tel. 0044 8702 521 250, www.<br />
germanwings.com. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00.<br />
Myair , tel. 0044 2073 651 597, info@myair.com,<br />
www.myair.com.<br />
Sky Europe , tel. 489 48 99, sales@skyeurope.com,<br />
www.skyeurope.com.<br />
Wizzair , tel. 960 38 88, www.wizzair.com.<br />
Both terminals have free Wi-Fi hot spot zone, limited eating<br />
and drinking facilities, souvenir shop on Terminal 1 and<br />
souvenirs, leather goods, electronics, fashion, optics and<br />
tobacco shops on Terminal 2, as well as business class<br />
lounge at the Departure hall.<br />
To get to the airport from the city centre, a properly metered<br />
taxi shouldn’t cost more than 16Lv (€8). Otherwise, head for<br />
Orlov Most (C-3) and take bus No 84 to Terminal 1, or No 284<br />
to Terminal 2. Tickets cost 1Lv, as well as each bulky piece<br />
of luggage. Q PAULGKW<br />
Airlines<br />
Aeroflot B-5, ul. Zlaten Rog 22 fl.1 office 2B, tel.<br />
962 10 01, fax 962 55 66, sofrepr@aeroflot.ru, www.<br />
aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Aerosvit A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11, fl. 2, tel. 980 78<br />
80, aerosvit@nettisat.bg, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen<br />
09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Air France B-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 9, 3d floor, tel.<br />
939 70 10, fax 939 70 35, mail.sofia@airfrance.fr,<br />
www.airfrance.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Alitalia C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 5, tel. 981 67 02/980<br />
69 30, fax 981 67 04, info.sofia@alitalia.it, www.alitalia.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Austrian Airlines G-7, ul. Zlaten rog 12, tel. 806 00<br />
00, fax 962 42 40, sofia.office@aua.com, www.austrianairlines.bg.<br />
Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 31 33. Open<br />
07:00-18:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
British Airways C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 49, tel. 954<br />
70 00, fax 954 80 00, retailsales.1.sofia@britishairways.com,<br />
www.britishairways.com. Sofia Airport G-9,<br />
tel. 937 31 11. Open 09:00-17:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Air D-2, ul. Ivan Vazov 2, tel. 402 04 06, fax<br />
986 24 88, tickets1@air.bg, www.air.bg. Sofia Airport<br />
G-9, tel. 937 33 70. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Czech Airlines B-3, ul. Serdika 22, tel. 981 54 08,<br />
fax 981 13 86, ticketing.sof@czechairlines.com,<br />
www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
LOT Polish Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />
27A, tel. 987 45 62, fax 980 32 93, a.petrov@lot.pl,<br />
www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lufthansa B-3, Platinium Business Center, ul. Bacho<br />
Kiro 26-30, tel. 930 42 42, fax 981 29 11, lufthansabg@dlh.de,<br />
www.lufthansa.com. Sofia Airport G-9. tel.<br />
937 31 41. Open 05:00-20:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Malev Hungarian Airlines C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy<br />
19, tel. 981 50 91, fax 981 50 96, sofia@malev.hu,<br />
www.malev.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
Olympic Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />
55, tel. 981 45 45, fax 980 10 50, sofia@olympicair-bg.<br />
com, www.olympicairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Turkish Airlines B-3, ul. Saborna 11A, tel. 988 35 96,<br />
fax 980 41 51, thu-sof-sat@medicom.bg, www.thy.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Taxis<br />
There are over 15,000 taxis in Sofia: some of these are<br />
rusty crates driven by frustrated rally drivers; the majority<br />
are roadworthy vehicles operated by more-or-less reputable<br />
companies. Legitimate taxis are coloured yellow and<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Taxi companies<br />
OK Supertrans tel. 973 21 21, for mobile 1TAXI, www.<br />
oktaxi.net.<br />
Taxi S Express tel. 9 12 80, for mobile 1280, www.<br />
taxi91280.net/.<br />
Radio CV Taxi tel. 9 12 63.<br />
Ricars Taxi tel. 9 11 14.<br />
have an oval sticker on the windscreen; they also display<br />
a square sticker indicating the rates in BGN. Charges are<br />
supposed to be metered, but some drivers will switch the<br />
meter off and demand an inflated fare if they think you’re<br />
a gullible foreigner. By law a receipt should be issued for<br />
every taxi ride you take. The charges are cheap, ranging<br />
from 0.59Lv - 0.70Lv per kilometre. The agreeing of flat-rate<br />
fares beforehand is a common practice, even in licensed<br />
cabs, especially for destinations outside the city limits. A<br />
tip of 10-15% is common practice. Most taxis hang around<br />
at the big intersections, although you can order them by<br />
phone - just don’t expect to get through to an Englishspeaker<br />
(you can always ask your hotel receptionist to do<br />
it for you). Don’t be surprised if your driver doesn’t have a<br />
detailed knowledge of the city and asks you for directions.<br />
Few drivers speak a foreign language.<br />
You’d be well advised to stick to the taxi companies recommended<br />
below in order to keep overcharging problems to a<br />
minimum, although you’re unlikely to survive without being<br />
ripped off at least once during your stay.<br />
Car rental<br />
Avis F-6, ul. Orion 84, tel. 826 11 00, fax 827 30 57,<br />
reservations@avis.bg, www.avis.bg. Sofia Airport, Terminal<br />
2 G-9, tel.945 92 24. Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00.<br />
CarRent G-9, bul. Iskarsko shose 13, tel. 960 14<br />
08/0888 221 600, fax 960 14 46, carrent@promobile.bg,<br />
www.carrent.bg. Free delivery/collection<br />
24hours/day, 7days/week.<br />
Car Rental <strong>Bulgaria</strong> H-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />
62, tel. 974 36 63/0889 993 663, fax 974 18 81,<br />
office@carrental.bg, www.carrental.bg. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 18:00.<br />
Europcar B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20b, tel.<br />
981 46 26, fax 980 85 78, reservations@europcar.<br />
bg, www.europcar.com. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9,<br />
Terminal 1, tel. 945 92 83. Terminal 2, tel. 945 92 66. Free<br />
delivery / collection, 7 days / week. Hot line 0884 816 666.<br />
Open 09:00-21:00.<br />
Hertz G-7, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 53, Seat showroom,<br />
tel. 439 12 22, fax 439 12 25, office@hertz.bg, www.<br />
hertz.bg. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 945 92 17. Open<br />
08:30 - 23:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Hire My Car G-6, , tel. 955 92 55/0888 55 92 55, fax<br />
955 61 22, office@hiremycarbg.com, www.hiremycarbg.<br />
com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Miama rent-a-car G-6, ul. Aleksandar Pushkin 38, tel.<br />
0889 602 060/0888 778 866, info@miama-rentacar.<br />
com, www.miama-rentacar.com. Luxury rent-a-car service.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
Gett<strong>In</strong>G aroUnd<br />
Tany 97 G-8, ul. Anton Chehov 69, tel. 970 85 00,<br />
reservations@tany97.com, www.tany97.com. Sofia<br />
Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 0889 998 998. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Thrifty Car Rental F-8, ul. Kozlodui 4, tel. 931 60<br />
00/0887 503 030, fax 931 60 09, reservations@thrifty.<br />
bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Top rent-a-car C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 41, tel. 981 53<br />
81/0888 333 548, office@toprentacar.bg, www.<br />
toprentacarbg.com.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Alma Tour B-3, ul. Serdika 12, tel. 805 68 00/981 31<br />
38, outgoing@almatour.net, incoming@almatour.net,<br />
airtickets@almatour.net, www.almatournet. QOpen<br />
09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Jamadvice Travel Ltd. G-8, ul. Asen Zlatarov 10,<br />
tel. 943 30 11, fax 946 12 61, mark@btibulgaria.com.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational airline tickets and business travel.<br />
Lyuba Tours D-4, ul. Tsanko Tserkovski 22, tel. 963<br />
33 43, fax 963 31 42, info@lyubatours.com, www.lyubatours.com.<br />
Small-group weekend trips within <strong>Bulgaria</strong> to<br />
places of historical, cultural and ethnographic interest.<br />
Polytours Tsar Asen 61, tel. 981 12 22, fax 980 41<br />
25, tours@polytours.com, www.polytours.com. QOpen<br />
9:00 - 18.30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Stars travel C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 57, tel. 811 47 81,<br />
fax 811 47 82, office@starstravel.info, www.starstravel.<br />
info. <strong>In</strong>ternational airline tickets and business travel<br />
Usit Colours C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 35, tel. 981 19 00,<br />
fax 981 99 91, sofia@usitcolours.bg, www.usitcolours.<br />
bg. Specialists in youth and student travel.<br />
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />
20V, tel. 980 51 02, fax 980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.<br />
com, www.zigzagbg.com. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n independent travel<br />
specialists organizing hiking trips, B&B reservations,<br />
car rental, and tailor-made excursions into the great<br />
outdoors.<br />
ZIP Travel C-1, bul. Praga 8, tel. 917 59 30, fax 917 59<br />
49, sofia@ziptravel.bg, www.ziptravel.bg. <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
company specialised in student travel and training, exchange<br />
programs and low price air tickets.<br />
US$1 - 1.40Lv; €1 – 1.95Lv; £1 –<br />
2.08Lv (January 2009)<br />
January - March 2009<br />
57
58 sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />
Sofia’s smartest shops - including any number of international<br />
designer outlets - jostle for attention along either<br />
side of bul. Vitosha, the city’s main north-south pedestrian,<br />
trams and police only, shopping street. Mainstream<br />
clothes, domestic and electrical stores can also be found<br />
in abundance along consumer-clogged streets like ul. Graf<br />
Ignatiev and ul. Pirotska.<br />
24hr food and drink<br />
Familia C-3, bul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 71 05. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Fantastiko B-5, bul. Madrid 8, tel. 988 65 90, www.<br />
ff-bg.net. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Magazin 345 B-3, ul. Veslets 4, tel. 988 98 75. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. PA<br />
Antiques & Collectables<br />
Antikvariat Zlatorog A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 983<br />
35 08, vanili_@abv.bg, www.antikvariatzlatorog.com.<br />
Offering everything from chintzy crockery to dressing-tables,<br />
wardrobes and hat-stands, Zlatorog is a must-visit for retrofurnishing<br />
freaks. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Letostrui C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 9, tel. 988 18 81. Furniture,<br />
porcelain and other oddments. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Strash A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 41A, tel. 983 93 08. If<br />
you collect stamps, old postcards or vintage cartoons, this<br />
is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Viga Antiques B-3, ul. Alabin 50, tel. 980 54 07. Antiques<br />
from folk costumes to clocks. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Books<br />
Booktrading C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 50, tel. 981 04<br />
48. One of the best of the high-street bookstores, with a<br />
good selection of English, French and German paperbacks,<br />
art books, and international guidebooks (Eyewitness,<br />
Rough Guides and more). QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Helikon C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 68, tel. 987 19 19,<br />
bigbookshop@helikon.bg, www.helikon.bg. Browserfriendly<br />
bookstore on three floors with a smattering of<br />
English-language titles, international guide books including<br />
Rough Guides, and a small cafe where readings are sometimes<br />
held. The other bookshop from the Helikon chain is<br />
on bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17 B-2, tel. 988 40 29, email<br />
- officeeubcc@helikon.bg QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:30. A<br />
<strong>In</strong>terkniga B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 944 41 41/0899 973<br />
966. <strong>In</strong>side the headquarters of the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Artists’ Union,<br />
this bookshop has lots of full-colour art books, and some<br />
English-language paperbacks. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Ploshtad Slaveykov<br />
Ploshtad Slaveykov C-3, . This long rectangular<br />
square is home to a hugely enjoyable book market. If your<br />
language skills aren’t quite up to the latest in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
fiction then you can at least browse your way through<br />
lavishly illustrated books on <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n culture, or pick up<br />
the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n-English phrasebook you always pined for.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.<br />
Ploshtad Aleksandur Nevski<br />
Ploshtad Aleksandar Nevski B-4, . Open-air brica-brac<br />
market offering communist-era medals, stamps,<br />
postcards, junk from granny’s attic, and some genuine antiques.<br />
Lace-makers and embroiderers sell their wares at<br />
the eastern end of the strip on the corner of pl. Aleksandur<br />
Nevski and ul. 11 August. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Knigomania B-1, Mall of Sofia, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />
101, tel. 980 52 14, office@knigomania.bg,<br />
www.knigomania.bg. Bright modern browser-friendly bookstore<br />
with a good selection of English-language paperbacks,<br />
international guidebooks, and maps. Also sells CDs and DVDs.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Nissim Books C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 59, tel. 981 19<br />
12, boyana@nissimbooks.com, www.nissimbooks.com.<br />
Charming cubby-hole with a few English titles. All the staff are<br />
book enthusiasts and they will gladly try and seek out rare or<br />
unsual tomes that can’t be found elsewhere. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
Orange C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 980 82 07, orangegraf@pe-bg.com.<br />
Multi-media store with four floors of stationery,<br />
toys, books, CDs and games. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PA<br />
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski<br />
20, tel. 980 51 02, info@zigzagbg.com, www.<br />
zigzagbg.com. This independent travel agent has a<br />
better selection of maps of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> than any other shop<br />
we’ve encountered in the capital. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Clothes & Accessories<br />
525 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 8, tel. 980 64 10. Snazzy,<br />
locally-made clothes for the slightly off-the-wall trendsetter,<br />
plus lots of eccentric accoutrements. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Artishock B-2, ul. Ivaylo 28, tel. 0898 826 161/0888<br />
091 661, office@artishock.bg, www.artishock.bg. Personal<br />
and home accessories. Online and offline shop.<br />
Atelie Mirella Bratova C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 4, tel.<br />
980 71 56, www.mirellabratova.com. Stylish bohemian<br />
fashion creations from the inspired Ms Bratova, and auraemanating<br />
ethno-pendants by Daniela Andreevska. QOpen<br />
10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Muhomorka C-3, ul. Ivan Shishman 45, tel. 958 29 85,<br />
www.muhomorka.biz. Aladdin’s cave of colourful clothes<br />
and eastern-influenced textiles. They also sell large-format<br />
cigarette papers but we don’t understand what these might<br />
be used for. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Shopping smarts<br />
Open Отворено Otvoreno<br />
Closed Затворено Zatvoreno<br />
Push Бутни Butni<br />
Pull Дръпни Drapni<br />
Monday Понеделник Ponedelnik<br />
Tuesday Вторник Vtornik<br />
Wednesday Сряда Sryada<br />
Thursday Четвъртък Chetvurtak<br />
Friday Петък Petuk<br />
Saturday Събота Subota<br />
Sunday Неделя Nedelya<br />
Punto & Kanela C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 52, tel. 0888<br />
413 749, mokanova@abv.bg. Small but chic collection of<br />
domestic designer woolens, and some imaginative necklaces<br />
and bracelets. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
The Earth Collection C-4, ul. Ivan Shisman 20, tel.<br />
0885 807 764. For the first time in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>, the well known<br />
brand of environmentally friendly clothes made of 100%<br />
refined natural fabrics mixing raw silk, cotton, ramie, hemp<br />
and linen. Lightweight, breathable, long lasting and elegant<br />
clothes. Garments with versability, wearability and comfort.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Cosmetics<br />
Boutique Estee Lauder-Clinique-Aramis C-2, bul.<br />
Vitosha 67, tel. 987 24 52, elboutique@esteelauderbg.<br />
com, www.esteelauder.com. Top-of-the-range fragrances.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />
18:00. A<br />
Casyopea C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 19, tel. 852 64 78,<br />
office@casyopea.com, www.casyopea.com. Natural<br />
cosmetics store with enough varieties of soap to keep you<br />
smelling sweet for several lifetimes. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Culinary shops<br />
Fontanite A-2, ul. Vranaya 34-36, tel. 931 19 65. Delicatessen<br />
store, importing tasty goods directly from Italy. They<br />
prepare tiramisu on the spot.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Flowers<br />
Bouquet C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 988 51 97. Phone<br />
orders taken on tel. 098 14 14. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Feite C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 18 10. Also at ul.<br />
Graf Ignatiev 41. Elegant gift packaging.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00<br />
- 21:00.<br />
Tsvetna magia B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris I 99, tel. 980 47 83,<br />
info@flowersmagic.com, www.flowersmagic.com.<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
Balgarski dyukyan A-2, ul. Pirotska 11. Enough folksy<br />
crockery, embroidered tablecloths, and Turkish-style copper<br />
coffee pots to decorate that designer Balkan peasant kitchen<br />
of your dreams. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Carpet House/Tchu kilim A-4, ul. Rakovski 38, tel.<br />
983 66 09, sales@tchukilim.com, www.tchukilim.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />
com. Looks like a regular domestic carpet shop from the<br />
outside but is also Sofia’s leading outlet for authentic allwool<br />
kilims made in the weaving town of Chiprovtsi. With a<br />
selection of small rugs in stock, they also take orders for<br />
kilims if you have a couple of months to spare. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Dar za gorene C-3, bul. Fridtyof Nansen 19, tel.<br />
0888 647 516, nuna76@mail.bg, www.darzagorene.<br />
com. <strong>In</strong> the little candle shop of Nuna and Duraid you<br />
can find their 100% hand made candles, decorated with<br />
symbols, by which they are trying to send different messages<br />
to the world: save the nature, discover the beauty<br />
of the ancient <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n art motives, feel the harmony<br />
and love - all of these messages are the main inspirers of<br />
their work and life.<br />
Ethnographic Museum Shop B-3, pl. Aleksandar<br />
Batenberg 1. Folk costumes, traditional crockery, ethno<br />
jewellery and music CDs. It’s one of the best places to buy<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n kilims - at 160Lv per square metre they’re probably<br />
more expensive here than in their villages of origin, but<br />
authentic and affordable handiwork nevertheless. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Galeria Gaya C-5, ul. Krakra 19, tel. 0884 177 005,<br />
syana@gayabg.com, www.gayabg.com. Handmade<br />
greetings cards and wonderfully outlandish ceramics make<br />
this a great place to seek out gifts for the arty individualist<br />
in your life. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Kikka B-5, ul. Shipka 28, tel. 0888 888 727. Contemporary<br />
ceramics from earnest clay-pummelling types. Affordable<br />
domestic items as well as more upmarket sculptural<br />
pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Punto C-4, ul. Yuri Venelin 12, tel. 986 39 31, titi.<br />
ovanesova@abv.bg. Classy designer jewellery made by local<br />
artists, alongside a big range of affordable brooches, beads,<br />
earrings and other fashion trinkets. Also curious ceramics,<br />
small-format oil paintings and reproduction icons. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
Traditzia<br />
Traditzia C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 36, tel. 981 77 65,<br />
office@traditzia.bg, www.traditzia.bg. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />
quality and variety, Traditzia is about as good as Sofia’s<br />
gift shops get. Founded seven years ago by volunteers<br />
from Sofia’s international community, it is a fair-trade<br />
souvenir and crafts store which stocks a diverse range<br />
of textiles, ceramics, hand-made greetings cards, glassware<br />
and jewellery. Most importantly, purchases made<br />
here contribute to good causes: many of the items on<br />
display are made by children in social institutions, people<br />
with disabilities and artisans in remote villages. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PA<br />
January - March 2009<br />
59
60 sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />
Sports equipment<br />
Makalu sport B-1, ul. Vladayska 23, tel. 0878 988<br />
727, www.makalusport.com. Specialized climbing and<br />
mountaineering equipment. <strong>In</strong>formation about trekking,<br />
hikking, climbing and caving in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Stenata B-2, ul. Bratya Miladinovi 5, tel. 980 54 91,<br />
stenata@omega.bg, www.stenata.com. Everything<br />
you might need for hiking, camping, climbing and caving.<br />
Friendly advice from experts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Tera Bulgara C-5, ul. San Stefano 22A, tel. 846 88 06.<br />
Craft items, textiles and rugs. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Umbopo C-3, ul. Khan Krum 20, tel. 0887 201 673. A<br />
tiny, little shop for hand-made jewellery, candles, little artistic<br />
gifts, ceramic beads and many beautiful small trinkets. This<br />
is a place where you can take your time and use your creativity<br />
and imagination for creating your own jewellery. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
Hypermarkets<br />
HIT H-8, Mladost-2 ul. Aleksander Malinov 75, tel. 817<br />
51 00, hit-info@hit-hypermarket.bg, www.hit-hypermarket.bg.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Kaufland H-8, zh-k Mladost -3 ul. Philip Avramov<br />
3, tel. 0800 12 220, customer.services@kaufland.<br />
bg, www.kaufland.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Metro cash & carry G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />
7, tel. 0700 100 71, info@Metro.bg, www.metro.bg.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />
Jewellery<br />
Avi Center B-2, ul. Vitosha 18B, tel. 930 70 70, office@<br />
avi-center.com, www.avi-center.com. High quality gold,<br />
diamonds and platinum jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
El Grado C-3, bul. Vassil Levski 61, tel. 986 24 80. Gold,<br />
silver, precious stones, orders of unique examples, repairs.<br />
QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Photography<br />
Kodak Express C-3, pl. Slaveykov 11, tel. 987 00 74.<br />
Develops your holiday snaps in a jiffy as well as selling film<br />
of all kinds and a range of professional kit. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Music shops<br />
0.4.3. (O.Ch.Z.) B-2, ul.Tri Ushi 3, tel. 981 72 27,<br />
www.Z043.org. Everything about this hell-hole screams<br />
of bloody metal! From the millions of skulls on the shelves<br />
and the thundering sounds, ravaging the stereo, to the<br />
metalheads, round the corner, who will always test your<br />
“metal-ness”, before even talking to you. CD-s, t-shirts,<br />
accessoires and rock memorabilia…and that Motorhead<br />
shirt you’ve always wanted. They just have it all! QOpen<br />
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
SMF Music Hunter C-2, ul. William Gladstone 30A,<br />
tel. 981 60 76, www.smf-bg.com. The most extensive<br />
collection of CD-s, DVD-s and T-shirts with unreadable<br />
band logos. Almost every important album in rock, punk<br />
metal and enough bloody and satanic CD-sleeves to give<br />
you nightmares for the rest of your life… QOpen 10:30 -<br />
20:00, Sat 10.30 - 19.30. Closed Sun. A<br />
Vision A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 55, tel. 983 55 09,<br />
visiomessige@abv.bg. One of the oldest shops for<br />
music t-shirt and accessories in Sofia. They offer spraycans<br />
for graffiti and can dress you up as a street maniac<br />
from head to toe. There is also a tattoo parlour in the<br />
basement. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11.30 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Markets<br />
Graf Ignatiev C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev. More bananas<br />
than you can shake a cucumber at, and vice-versa.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.<br />
Rimska stena D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski. One of<br />
the liveliest food markets, worth visiting for the piece of<br />
preserved Byzantine fortress wall which sticks up amidst<br />
the stalls. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Sitnyakovo bul. Shipchenski prohod. Fresh produce<br />
market popular with the expat community - you might well<br />
find the kind of exotic fruit and vegetables that doesn’t<br />
turn up elsewhere. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Zhenski pazar A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Vast<br />
open-air bazaar selling flowers, foodstuffs, cheap<br />
clothes, broomsticks, spare parts to machines you<br />
never even knew existed, and kitchen sinks. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Shopping centres<br />
City Center Sofia E-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 865<br />
72 85, pr@ccs-mall.com, www.ccs-mall.com. Glossy<br />
consumerist temple comprising 3 storeys of shops (including<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>’s first Marks & Spencer), a cinema, and<br />
a floor of food options including sushi bar and a brace of<br />
Italian restaurants. The ground-floor newspaper kiosk is<br />
a good place to pick up English-language press. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22:00. PTALK<br />
Mall of Sofia B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101.<br />
Sofia’s newest shopping mecca is an enormous retail,<br />
business and entertainment centre boasting over 130<br />
shops (many selling international brand-names), fancy<br />
cafés and restaurants, and a 12-screen multiplex cinema.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAK<br />
TZUM B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 2, tel. 926 07 00, tzum@<br />
tzum.bg, www.tzum.bg. Three floors of expensive<br />
fashion, accessories and cosmetics, and a first-floor<br />
café where young ladies like to sit and pout after a tiring<br />
day looking at clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 20:00. PK<br />
Supermarkets<br />
Billa G-7, ul. Sofiyski Geroy 4, tel. 951 52 66,<br />
billa@bg.billa.co.at, www.connect.bg/directory/<br />
BGSF000111/. Aisle upon aisle of international food and<br />
drink. Pile your trolley high. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Piccadilly E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel.<br />
819 45 67, fax 819 45 55, www.piccadilly.bg. Pretty<br />
much everything you need for your weekly shop is in here<br />
somewhere. Big deli counter, freshly baked bread, and aisle<br />
upon aisle of alcohol. Another at B-1, Mall of Sofia. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Tobacco & Drinks<br />
100 grama sladki C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 18A, tel. 980<br />
40 62, www.100gr-sladki.com. The name of this treasure<br />
trove of a shop literally means ‘one hundred grams of sweets’,<br />
although you’ll probably be drawn into buying more once you<br />
catch sight of the riches behind the counter. Custards, tarts,<br />
cakes and hand-made chocolates will appeal to the sweettoothed,<br />
while mini-quiches are perfect for a more traditional<br />
lunch-snack. There’s a small sit-down area for those who want<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
sHoPP<strong>In</strong>G<br />
to linger over a cup of tea or coffee, but do be warned that the<br />
longer you spend hanging around here, the more things you<br />
will be tempted into buying. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Cheers B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 986 18 56,<br />
office@cheersgroup.bg, www.cheers.bg. Finest tobacco<br />
and cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, brand alcohol,<br />
selected wines. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
A<br />
Loza C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 19, tel. 980 28 00. Great<br />
selection of fine <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n wines and brandies. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. PA<br />
Magazin za vreme i chay B-2, ul. Knyaz BorisI 65,<br />
tel. 0887 968 748, vremechai@gmail.com. Shelf upon<br />
shelf of speciality teas from all over the world, including<br />
seductive long-leaved green varieties from China, and plenty<br />
of traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n herbal infusions. There’s also a small<br />
selection of oriental spices including ginger, cardamom, and<br />
a few things we couldn’t quite identify -judging by the aroma<br />
it would be 100% safe to throw them in a curry. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.<br />
Poeschl Tabak B-2, ul. Solunska 23, tel. 981 18 49. Fine<br />
tobacco for pipes and cigarettes, cigars, snuff, accessories<br />
for smokers. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
61
62 HealtH & lIfestyle<br />
24hr pharmacies<br />
Adonis G-7, jk Hipodruma, bl. 121, ul. Urvich<br />
1, tel. 0800 16626/859 21 82, fax 958 14 70,<br />
hipodruma@adonis.bg, www.adonis.bg. Also in jk<br />
Lozenets, ul. Zlatovrah 4, Elemag, tel. 9620569, 0885<br />
832 680. Q A<br />
Ana D-1, bul. Vitosha 95, tel. 953 41 57.<br />
Aronia 2001 G-7, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 6, tel.<br />
953 13 08.<br />
Saldzhi C-2, bul. Vitosha 35, tel. 980 58 96. Q<br />
A<br />
Babysitting and Homecare<br />
Detegledachki , tel. 0888 816 309, info@detegledachki.com,<br />
www.detegledachki.com. Recruitment<br />
agency for babysitters and homecare services.<br />
Mery Poppins D-4, ul. Milin Kamak 40, tel. 865 48<br />
10/0878 621 936, info@marypoppins-bg.com, www.<br />
marypoppins-bg.com. Recruitment agency for babysitters<br />
and homecare services. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Tina V (G-8) ul. Nikolay Gogol 1, tel. 846 54 85/0889<br />
322 529, info@tina-v.com, www.tina-v.com. Babysitting<br />
and homecare recruitment agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
United Phili C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 28, tel. 0878 808<br />
568, united_ph@abv.bg. Babysitting and homecare recruitment<br />
agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Beauty salons<br />
Charmant C-1, ul. Sveti Ivan Rilski 15, et. 2, tel. 952<br />
34 30, charmant@bhc.orbitel.bg, www.charmant.bg.<br />
Thalasso treatments, massage, manicure and more. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Picasso B-3, ul. Aleksandur Batenberg 10, tel. 989<br />
66 99/989 06 68, picasso2@abv.bg, www.cosmelas.<br />
com. Studio for laser cosmetics. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. W<br />
Visages B-2, bul. Vitosha 50, tel. 988 42 51. Cosmetic<br />
services, massage, manicure, tatoos and more. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Yves Rocher Beauty Center C-2, bul. Vitosha 63, tel.<br />
986 31 64/987 99 10. Various cosmetic services with<br />
quality products. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Mon, Sat 10:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n language courses<br />
Atlas-S B-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 1, et. 3, tel. 987 20<br />
08/980 43 92, fax 980 55 79, atlas_lc@abv.bg, www.<br />
atlas-s.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Sofia University Department of Language Learning<br />
G-8, ul. Kosta Lulchev 27, tel. 871 00 69/872 00<br />
69, fax 870 53 28, office@deo.uni-sofia.bg, www.deo.<br />
uni-sofia.bg. The only certified centre for testing of <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n<br />
as foreign language. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.<br />
York Learning Centre D-3, ul. Rakovska 187 A, et.<br />
3, tel. 986 21 45/0898 457 433, info@york-bg.com,<br />
www.york-bg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun<br />
08:00 - 14:00.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Catering<br />
Lora Catering B-5, bul. Todor Aleksandrov, bl.<br />
75, ent.D, fl.1, opposite Arena cinema Liulin, tel.<br />
9201301/0888 800 548, lora2002@gmail.com,<br />
www.loracatering.com. Professional catering services<br />
for all occasions.<br />
Luxe B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02 03/0888 241 164,<br />
office@luxebg.com, www.luxebg.com. Catering and event<br />
planning. Q A<br />
MDM Catering F-7, ul. Strandzha 132, tel. 833 40<br />
83/0898 50 43 07, info@mdmcatering.com, www.<br />
mdmcatering.com. Business and corporate catering.<br />
Cleaning services<br />
Borivan Ltd. F-7, jk Obelia, bl. 118, vh. V, tel. 931 16<br />
20/0886 520 055, fax 934 66 90, service@borivan.com,<br />
www.borivan.com. Machine cleaning and washing, grinding<br />
and polishing. Contact telephone for weekends and holidays<br />
0885 405 610. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Vasilka Cleaning Agency G-7, ul.Kamen Andreev<br />
24, fl.4 ,office 404, tel. 952 34 34/0889 245 446, fax<br />
952 05 56, vasilkaltd@abv.bg, www.vasilka-bg.com.<br />
Complete cleaning services. Abonament cleaning services.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dentists<br />
Dental Clinic B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 5, tel. 987 84 24/987<br />
84 23. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Juniordent C-4, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 988 31<br />
75/935 59 322, fax 988 19 92, judent@mbox.bol.bg,<br />
www.juniordent.com. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. A<br />
Medstom Clinic B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 26A, tel.<br />
981 00 00/988 44 04, fax 988 31 80, medstom@abv.<br />
bg, www.medstom.com. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Nedyalkov Dental Clinics D-3, ul. Lyuben Karavelov<br />
90, tel. 963 15 05, info@klinikinedialkov.com, http://<br />
klinikinedialkov.com. The have 3 more clinics on ul. Rakovska<br />
165, tel. 988 54 44, on ul. Rakovska 81, tel. 983<br />
36 66 and on bul. Dondukov 105, tel. 944 82 62. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:00.<br />
T. Kanchev A-5, bul. Gen. Danail Nikolaev 10, tel./fax<br />
843 56 58. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dry cleaners<br />
Mac Clean B-3, ul. Gurko 10, tel. 986 55 51/986 49<br />
74. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13.00. Closed<br />
Sun.<br />
Roever C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 37, tel. 980 61 07. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hairdressers<br />
Kalo Hair Studio B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 987 01 54,<br />
kalohair@mail.bg, www.kalohairstudio.com. Also on ul.<br />
Damian Gruev 15 and bul. Vasil Levski 82 A. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Stylist Kapanov C-2, bul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. 951 63<br />
88, fax 953 30 12, botev@kapanov.net, www.kapanov.<br />
net. One of the best in the business. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Hospitals<br />
Isul A-5, ul. Byalo More 8, tel. 943 21 70/943 21 32.<br />
Pirogov (Multiprofile Hospital of Active Treatment<br />
and Emergency Medicine) G-7, bul. Totleben 21, tel.<br />
915 44 11. Emergency tel. 150. Sofia’s main hospital for<br />
emergencies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Tokuda G-7, bul. N. Vaptsarov 51B, tel. 403 40 00,<br />
fax 403 40 10, info@tokudabolnica.bg, www.tokudabolnica.bg.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational schools<br />
American College of Sofia H-8, Floyd Black Lane,<br />
Mladost-2, tel. 434 10 08/434 10 09, fax 974 31 29,<br />
acs@acs.bg, www.acs.bg. Private secondary school<br />
founded in 1860 - the oldest American educational institution<br />
outside the USA.<br />
American English Academy G-9, Druzhba 2, 150<br />
School - Deliyska Vodenitsa, fl. 4, tel. 973 12 22/973 88<br />
81, fax 973 55 64, aeaoffice@gmail.com, www.aea-bg.<br />
com. Classes from kindergarten to grade 12.<br />
Anglo-American School of Sofia G-7, ul. Kozyak 16,<br />
tel. 923 88 10, fax 923 88 59, aasdirector@infotel.<br />
bg, www.aas-sofia.org. School founded in 1967 by the<br />
American and British embassies.<br />
Deutsche Schule Erich Kaestner F-6, Lyulin-VI, tel.<br />
824 48 59/826 72 80, fax 925 08 38, info@eks-bg.eu,<br />
www.kestnerschool.com. German language school - kindergarten,<br />
primary and secondary school.<br />
First English Language School B-5, bul. Knyaz<br />
Dondukov 60, tel. 944 21 81/944 83 89, aeg1@abv.<br />
bg, www.fels-sofia.org. Public secondary school founded<br />
in 1958.<br />
The French school E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 36, tel. 963<br />
21 19/963 29 64, fax 866 58 70, proviseur@vhugo.<br />
org, www.vhugo.org.<br />
Kindergartens<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational children`s creativity center H-7,<br />
Dragalevtsi, ul. Vaklinets 36, tel. 967 31 12/0888 940<br />
763, iccf@geobiz.net, www.iccf-bg.com. Accepts children<br />
between the ages of 2-6.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30.<br />
Uwekind G-6, Boyana, ul. 612 4, tel. 857 51 00/857<br />
20 00, info@uwekind.com, www.uwekind.com. A privately<br />
run kindergarten and school with a half day German<br />
programme.<br />
Laboratories<br />
Biocheck A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 31, tel. 911 83/983<br />
33 93, www.biocheck-bg.com. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Bodimed B-2, ul. Pozitano 24, tel. 986 38 64/986<br />
66 76, www.bodimed.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Libraries<br />
British Council B-5, ul. Krakra 7, tel. 942 43 44/0887<br />
424 344, fax 942 42 22, bc.sofia@britishcouncil.bg,<br />
www.britishcouncil.org/bulgaria.htm. Up-to-date newspapers,<br />
magazines, and lots of lovely books. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
19:30, Wed 10:00 - 13:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
French Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 2,<br />
tel. 937 79 22, fax 980 94 98, ccc-cours@institutfrance.<br />
bg, www.institutfrance.bg. Bookstore and library. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
HealtH & lIfestyle<br />
Tattoo & Piercing<br />
Getting a tattoo can be a life-changing experience,<br />
or just another cartoon on you to fight boredom with.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Sofia, tattooing is much cheaper and as good as<br />
anywhere in the world. Bring your bravery, positive<br />
attitude and ideas with you and leave everything to the<br />
tattoo artist. Tattoo people are an underground breed<br />
of their own and sometimes have strange ethics and<br />
code of life, so treat them with respect. Ignore their<br />
prison-style looks and remember that they are professionals<br />
in the ancient rituals of desecrating the flesh.<br />
They can also make enough piercings on your body, to<br />
trigger any airport metal detector!<br />
Artstudio “Nuance”- tattoo, piercing and airbrush<br />
A-1, ul. Opalchenska 78, tel. 831 58 85/0889<br />
398 940, www.nuanceartstudio.com. Placed in the<br />
calmer corners of the centre, this is not the typical hellhole<br />
of a studio, but an arty, colourful place. Still an occasional<br />
demon can always come out of the needle!<br />
Kravay Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, bul.<br />
Patriarh Evtimiy 43, tel. 0885 757 819. Just across<br />
the ugliest monument in Sofia, there is a little window and<br />
a bell button. Ring on it and get some true blue ink!<br />
Monica Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, ul.<br />
Graf Ignatiev 34B, tel. 0897 310 677/0888 123<br />
424. A spacious studio where extreme people hang out<br />
and get their inks done. Drink some beers, play some<br />
darts and table soccer and get some beauty under your<br />
skin! Just don’t say the name of the soccer team C.S.K.A.<br />
and everything will be O.K.<br />
Vision Tattoo & Bodypiercing Studio A-3, bul.<br />
Maria Luiza 55, tel. 0889 813 120. <strong>In</strong> the dark alley<br />
hides a basement, where the magic of color happens!<br />
Goethe-<strong>In</strong>stitut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939<br />
01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www.<br />
goethe.de/ins/bg/sof/bgindex.htm. German language<br />
library. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu<br />
14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>stituto Cervantes Sofia B-3, ul. Saborna 1, tel.<br />
810 45 00, fax 980 26 28, censof@cervantes.es, sofia.<br />
cervantes.es. Spanish cultural centre. QOpen , Mon 10:00<br />
- 13:00, 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sun.<br />
Opticians<br />
Cari Optics C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel. 989 21 26/989<br />
21 71, fax 981 84 14, caristyle@mail.orbital.bg, www.<br />
carioptics.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Eurooptic D-2, bul. Vitosha 92, tel. 953 11 32, eurooptic2@mbox.contact.bg,<br />
www.eurooptik.com. Also shops<br />
on ul. Sveta Sofia 8, tel. 987 24 92, ul. Tsar Ivan Shishman 19,<br />
tel. 987 28 49, bul. Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, tel. 987 79 79<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Fox B-4, bul. Dondukov 26 A, tel. 986 40 32, office@<br />
foxoptics.com, www.foxoptics.com. Other shops on bul.<br />
Hristo Botev 73, tel. 981 98 93, ul. Serdika 18, tel. 980 02 55,<br />
jk Liulyn, bl. 443, tel. 8258673, jk Mladost 4, Business Park<br />
Sofia, Building 10, tel. 489 94 88. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Grand Optics C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 48, tel. 987 23 64,<br />
office@joyoptics.com, www.grandoptics-bg.com. Shops<br />
also on bul. Vitosha 74 and 23, bul. Maria Luisa 41, bul. Kosta<br />
Lulchev 52, Sky City, bul. Alexander Malinov 77, Princess Outlet<br />
Center, Sofia Airport, Terminal 2. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
January - March 2009<br />
63
64 HealtH & lIfestyle<br />
Opticlasa C-2, bul. Vitosha 40, tel. 988 34 86, opticlasa@trading.bg,<br />
www.opticlasa.com. ul. Alabin 31, bul.<br />
Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, ul. Solunska 14 and 37, Mladost<br />
4, Business Park Sofia, building 8 QOpen 10:30 - 19:30,<br />
Sat 10:30 - 18:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. A<br />
Party organisers<br />
Biliana Fireworks F-8, jk Hadji Dimitar, ul. Vasil Petleshkov<br />
1, tel. 986 33 00/0888 906 179, bil_fire@abv.bg,<br />
www.bil-firework.com. Pyrotechnic performances.<br />
Magicland C-1, ul. Knyaz Boris I 7, tel. 952 34 94/0886<br />
660 100, fax 952 33 95, land@magicland.bg, www.<br />
magicland.bg. Carnival costumes and accessories. Organizing<br />
of parties and events. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Party House B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 30, tel. 981 62 50,<br />
office@partyhouse-bg.com, www.partyhouse-bg.com.<br />
Corporate events, private parties, children’s shows and<br />
costume rental.<br />
Party Service G-7, ul. Bogatitsa 36, tel. 964 15<br />
00/964 15 01, fax 963 56 25, info@partyservice-bg.<br />
com, www.partyservice-bg.com. Event planners and<br />
caterers. Q A<br />
Red Devil F-7, bul. Lomsko Shose 228 A, tel. 0700<br />
14 700/0898 68 68 01, office@reddevilcatering.com,<br />
www.reddevilcatering.com. Complete organisation of all<br />
kinds of parties.<br />
Sofia Classic Catering G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose<br />
139, tel. 875 21 36/0886 499 277, fax 828 24 99,<br />
office@sofiacatering.com, www.sofiacatering.com.<br />
Catering for your office and family party.<br />
Private medical clinics<br />
Gurgulyat Clinic C-3, ul. Rakovski 148 B, tel. 912<br />
88/981 03 31, fax 981 02 91, gurgulyat@yahoo.com,<br />
www.gurgulyat.com. bul. Gen. Totleben 21, tel. 952 05 00,<br />
ul. 20 April 30, tel. 954 98 85. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Medical Center Dr. I.S.Greenberg H-8, Mladost-3<br />
(in the building of XXV Polyclinic), tel. 974 48 16, fax<br />
971 29 95, dccgreenberg@tea.bg. QOpen 00:00 -<br />
24:00.<br />
St. Pantaleymon H-8, zh-k Mladost 3 bul. Aleksandur<br />
Malinov 63, tel. 974 10 00, fax 974 44 50, info@sphospital.com,<br />
www.sphospital.com. Specializing Surgery<br />
Hospital. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Thorax Clinics B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 57,<br />
tel. 912 85, mail@thorax.bg, www.thorax.bg. Thorax 2<br />
is on ul. Fridtjof Nansen 21, tel. 980 78 86. QOpen 00:00<br />
- 24:00. A<br />
Vita Medical Center G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 9, tel. 960 49<br />
50/943 43 98, fax 944 13 43, vita@vita.bg, www.vita.<br />
bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Religious services<br />
Anglican church B-5, ul. Oborishte 5, the Catholic<br />
Chapel, tel. 872 21 30, anglicanbg@gmail.com, http://<br />
www.churchoftheresurrection.eu/sofia.htm. Holy<br />
Communion is celebrated every third Sunday of the month<br />
at 9:30 am.<br />
Baha’i Centre G-7, ul. Boyanski Vazhod 8 A, tel. 955 58<br />
33/0878 986 997, nsa@bahai.bg, www.bahai.bg.<br />
Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,<br />
bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 60 01, www.genmufti.org.<br />
Prayer five times a day.<br />
Baptist Church G-8, <strong>In</strong>terpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36,<br />
tel. 971 17 50, raychs@juno.com, www.ibcsworld.org.<br />
Sunday teaching sessions at 10 a.m. and worship services<br />
at 11 a.m. in English.<br />
Hram Uspenie Bogorodichno ul. Lyulin planina 5, tel.<br />
953 04 06/952 29 59, proykov@gmail.com, www.kaebg.org.<br />
Daily liturgy at 18:30, Sun 8:00 and 10:00.<br />
Chabad <strong>Bulgaria</strong> (Jewish Community Center)<br />
B-4, ul. Stara Planina 38, tel. 944 33 80, fax 944 35<br />
38, office@chabad-bulgaria.org, www.chabad-bulgaria.<br />
org. Prayer every day at 8 am, except for Friday when the<br />
service is held in the Synagogue. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983 12<br />
73, fax 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@mail.orbitel.bg,<br />
www.sofiasynagogue.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat<br />
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
St Joseph’s Catholic Church C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris<br />
146, tel. 811 46 56. Daily liturgy at 08:00 and 17:30 in<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, Sunday and holidays at 09:00 in Polish, 10:30 in<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n, 12:00 in Latin and 18:00 in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:30.<br />
The <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Lutheran Church D-3, zh-k Lozenets,<br />
ul. Kapitan Andreev 4, fl. 2, tel. 963 42 44/963 42 48.<br />
Sunday service in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n at 11.45am. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
17:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Removals<br />
Allied Pickfords <strong>Bulgaria</strong> H-8, Business Park Sofia,<br />
Building 12, tel. 807 66 88, fax 807 66 89, movers@allied.bg,<br />
www.allied.bg. Household removals and company<br />
relocation. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group G-7, ul. Kostenski<br />
Vodopad 59, tel. 958 97 21, fax 858 48 29, info.<br />
sofia@corstjens.com, www.corstjens.com. Smooth and<br />
professional relocations. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Orbit Ltd. G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakdzhiev 16, tel. 970 63<br />
00/970 64 00, fax 970 63 33, orbit@orbit.bg, www.<br />
orbit.bg. <strong>In</strong>ternational forwarding and removals. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 15:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Security<br />
Group 4 Securitas H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building<br />
3, tel. 976 09 17/91 944, fax 975 18 40, office@<br />
bg.g4s.com, www.g4s.bg. Provides full range of products<br />
and services related to safety and security. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ipon-1 Ltd. D-3, ul. Rakovski 209, tel. 981 45 48,<br />
ipon_1@abv.bg. Personal protection, encashment<br />
services, sites security. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Security Group Alpha G-9, bul. Iskursko shose 12, et.<br />
6, tel. 979 18 86/979 06 55, fax 979 18 87, alpha_bg@<br />
abv.bg, www.alphabg.com. Physical and technical security.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />
Vets<br />
Animo C-4, zh-k Mladost 1A, bl. 508, tel. 987 40<br />
74/0889 780 180, www.animobg.com. QOpen 00:00<br />
- 24:00.<br />
Avitsena Veterinary Clinic F-7, ul. Naicho Tsanov,<br />
block 114, tel. 822 01 49/0887 477 873, klinik@avicenavet.com,<br />
www.avicenavet.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Dr. Antov Veterinary Clinic E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 4,<br />
tel. 868 95 94/0898 831 283, vetclinic@abv.bg, www.<br />
vetbg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Bowling<br />
Galaxy Bowling Club D-2, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 916 65<br />
90, fax 916 65 64, galaxybowling@gmail.com, www.<br />
galaxybowling.eu. Centrally-located club with 6 lanes. Also<br />
offers billiards and video games. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. From<br />
3-5 leva per game. A<br />
Mega Xtreme Bowling Center H-8, Studentski Grad,<br />
ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 12, tel. 969 26 00/969 26<br />
01, bowling_mega@yahoo.com, www.mega-xtreme.com.<br />
Popular 18-alley bowling centre, darts, table football, billiards<br />
and air hokey, packed with students from the nearby dorms of<br />
Studentski Grad, 6km southeast of the centre. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
04:00. From 3,50 - 5,50 leva per person per game. PA<br />
Snooker and Billiard club “Century” E-2, ul. Chervena<br />
stena 4, tel. 0899 988 376, snooker@trivex.org,<br />
www.snooker.trivex.org. The club is not very easy to find,<br />
although it is situated very close to “Kempinski -Zografski”<br />
hotel. There are signs to follow, so it shouldn’t be so hard to<br />
get there. Going downstairs, you will enter this elegant, not so<br />
big, but pleasant place. There are 4 professional billiard and<br />
snooker tables, a small separated corner with a sofa, where<br />
you can have a drink or two, check your email, or just have a<br />
rest. Nice music, plasma TV, an English-speaking staff will take<br />
care of your pleasant stay. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n alcohol is not available,<br />
but the prices are quite low for this type of club. The place<br />
is also used for organized billiard and snooker tournaments.<br />
There are only 3 more billiard and snooker clubs in Sofia,<br />
but that’s the only one, placed in the central part of the city.<br />
QOpen 11;00 - 01:00. PAW<br />
Carting<br />
Carting Speedway Krasna Polyana G-7, bul. Vardar<br />
3A, tel. 920 14 47, kartingsport@abv.bg, www.kartingbg.com.<br />
Kilometre-long circuit. During winter season they<br />
work from 10:00 до 18:00. 2Lv per lap, every<br />
11th is for free. The track can be hired also per hour or per<br />
day. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Dance clubs<br />
Alfredo Dance Studio C-2, National Stadium Vasil Levski,<br />
zala MDSport, tel. 0899 222 088, info@alfredostyle.<br />
com, www.alfredostyle.com. Salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Hip<br />
Hop QOpen , Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 21:00.<br />
Alima C-5, ul. Sheynovo 7, Fitness Central Park, Dance<br />
Zone, www.orientaldances.net. Oriental dances - beginner,<br />
intermediate and advanced levels. QOpen , Mon, Tue,<br />
Fri 18:00 - 19:00.<br />
Lira Group Dance Company bul. Yanko Sakazov 17,<br />
tel. 0888 678 963/0888 503 213, info@liragroup.eu,<br />
www.liragroup.eu. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n folk dances, Cuban salsa, Merengue,<br />
Bachata, Cha-cha-cha and Balroom dances. QOpen<br />
closed, Mon, Thu 19:00 - 21:30, Sat 17:00 - 18:15. Closed<br />
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun.<br />
Pambos Dancing Centre B-3, pl. Garibaldi 2, tel. 0888<br />
354 771/0888 981 769, pambos@pambos.info, www.<br />
pambos.info. Salsa, flamenco and Greek dances. QOpen<br />
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Raul Torres Dance School C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev<br />
3, tel. 0898 971 083, raultorres@abv.bg, www.torresdance.com.<br />
Salsa, rumba, guaguanco, mambo, cha-cha,<br />
guaracha, samba and merenge, hip-hop and modern ballet.<br />
QOpen 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00.<br />
Tanguerin ul. Krakra 15, Czech Club Ballroom, tel.<br />
0888 373 940/0898 817 906, fax 958 71 55, info@<br />
tanguerin.com, www.tanguerin.com. Tango argentino.<br />
QOpen closed, Mon, Wed, Fri 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue,<br />
Thu, Sat, Sun.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
sPorts<br />
Vai, Dudule! G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 5, 138 school, tel.<br />
0886 885 468/0889502 744. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Folk Dances. “Vai,<br />
Dudule!” is an exclamaition used in a prayer, part of a bulgarian<br />
folklore custom, performed to the saints to send rain in times<br />
of very dry weather. Fri, Sat and Sun private lessons. QOpen<br />
, Mon, Wed 19:20 - 21:30, Thu 18:30 - 20:30.<br />
Extreme sports<br />
Air Sport Flight School B-1, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1,<br />
tel. 951 56 43/0888 123 123, fax 953 15 47, info@<br />
airsport.bg, www.airsport.bg. Training for ultra-light, sel<br />
(single engine land) aircraft, multi engine land (mel) aircraft,<br />
private pilots and aerobatic flights. Certified flight instructors.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Club Adrenalin G-8, bul. Sitnyakovo 41A, bl. 1, fl. 1,<br />
tel. 944 44 02/0896 693 700, adrenalin@bungy.bg,<br />
www.clubadrenalin.com. Bungee jumping, hot-air balloon<br />
flights, sky diving, paragliding, rafting, off road, safari and<br />
air advertising.<br />
Cross The Line B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 38, tel. 987<br />
90 89/0887 402 525, crosstheline@abv.bg, www.<br />
crossthelinebg.com. Alpinism, mountain climbing, caving,<br />
rafting, kayaking, canyoning, team building, paragliding and<br />
two-seater plane flights.<br />
Parasof F-7, Svoboda, bl. 36, vhod G, apt. 55, tel. 898<br />
94 42/0888 259 716, www.skydive-bg.com. Parachute<br />
jumps, skydiving and paragliding. You have to be above 16.<br />
Sky Mania H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 15, 514, tel. 868<br />
20 66/0888 903 536, delta_sky@hotmail.com, www.<br />
sky-jet.com. Paragliding and motor pargliding courses,<br />
flying equipment.<br />
Vertical World G-6, ul. 711-ta 3, Knyazhevo, tel.<br />
0888 484 700, vertical_world_bg@yahoo.com, www.<br />
verticalworldbg.com. Bungee jumping, alpinism, caving,<br />
trekking, biking and adventure tourism. Training and equipment<br />
provided.<br />
� The Sofia<br />
telephone code is: 02<br />
January - March 2009<br />
65
66 sPorts<br />
Fitness & Spa<br />
Atama G-8, ul. Cherkovna 86, tel. 843 53 08. Wellequipped<br />
gym and a wide range of beauty treatments.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Athletic G-8, ul. Oborishte 22, tel. 489 08 71/489<br />
03 46, reklama@athletic-bg.com, www.athletic-bg.<br />
com. Group classes in ashtanga, step, pilates, and aerobics.<br />
Also offers sauna, solarium, massage and beauty<br />
treatments. Also on ul. Nikolai Kopernik 21, tel. 971 13<br />
01, zh-k Iztok, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 31, bul.<br />
Slivnitsa 228, tel. 822 03 61, bul. Yanko Sakazov 78, tel.<br />
489 03 46. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -<br />
13:00, 17:00-22:00. KD<br />
Boyana Diplomatic Club & Spa H-6, ul. Vasil<br />
Chekalarov 51, Boyana, tel. 957 10 65/857 02 71,<br />
boyana@dclub.bg, www.dclub.bg. <strong>In</strong>door swimming<br />
pool, tennis courts, fitness hall, sauna, jaccuzi, massage.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. TLK<br />
Fitness Central Park C-5, ul. Sheinovo 7, tel. 942<br />
31 10, info@fitnesscentralpark.com, www.fitnesscentralpark.com.<br />
Boasting a fully equipped gym and<br />
a variety of machines to suit all body fat percentages,<br />
it also calls itself a beauty club offering manicure and<br />
a cosmetics room, a solarium, sauna, steam bath and<br />
massage. There is a dance floor which offers a varied<br />
program, some of the more popular being MTV dance<br />
and street Jazz. Most of the young, healthy staff speak<br />
Enlish and genuinely seem to enjoy their job. There is<br />
also a small cafe for recuperating in afterwards. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. PA<br />
Maxi Club & Park Hotel Olymp H-8, bul. Simeonovsko<br />
Shose 110, tel. 892 00 33/892 00 00, olymp@<br />
maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. Hotel complex<br />
southeast of the centre whose gym, sauna and solarium<br />
are open to the general public. Also has swimming pool<br />
on site. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. KDC<br />
Relax Center Blyasak G-8, ul.Kalimantsi 19, tel.<br />
973 36 68/0885 892 000, 2brelaxbliasak@gmail.<br />
com, www.relax.saloni-bliasak.com. A pleasant<br />
place which offers luxurious aromatherapy treatments<br />
for face and body, shiatsu massage, hot stone therapy,<br />
SPA procedures, solarium. Friendly staff at Relax Center<br />
take expert care of your look from top to toe. Try also the<br />
Turkish bath and Finnish sauna. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Sparta Fitness + Spinning E-1, bul. Arsenalski<br />
4, tel. 963 13 37/865 6471, office@spartabg.com,<br />
www.spartabg.com. Popular gym offering a wide range<br />
of fat-unfriendly activities: pumping iron, riding stationary<br />
bikes, sweating in saunas. Also offers aerobics,<br />
aquaaerobics, pilates, tae-bo, yoga, spinning, karate,<br />
tennis and football. The sport centre also has 50m<br />
Olympic swimming pool. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. KDC<br />
The red gym G-7, zh-k Strelbishte ul. Haidushka<br />
gora 111, tel. 818 78 11/0888 731 231, thegym@<br />
abv.bg, www.theredgym.bg. Fitness, aerobics, sauna,<br />
steam bath, Jaccuzzi, massage, solarium, cosmetic<br />
studio, spa therapies, manicure, pedicure and shooting<br />
gallery. Q FD<br />
Ice-rinks<br />
Slavia G-8, ul. Koloman 1, tel. 856 49 75/856 91<br />
97, fax 855 21 37, www.pfcslavia.com. Works from<br />
September till March. Admission 4Lv. Skate rental 3Lv.<br />
QOpen , Wed, Fri 18:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 13:00,<br />
17:00-18:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu.<br />
Winter Sport Palace (Zimen dvorets na sporta)<br />
H-8, Studentski grad, tel. 868 73 34. Out amongst the<br />
high-rise dorms of Sofia’s “student city”, 7km southeast<br />
of the centre. Admission fee: 6Lv, plus a three more<br />
leva for skate rental. Works from September to March.<br />
QOpen , Wed 18:30 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 - 20:30, Sun<br />
17:00 - :20:30.<br />
Golf<br />
Golf Club Air Sofia B-4, Ihtiman, ul. 6-i septemvri 1(office),<br />
tel. 981 09 25/0888 678 144, golf@golf-bg.com, www.<br />
golf-bg.com. Eighteen-hole course with a Par 71 rating. A round<br />
here costs 50Lv per person. Equipment rental available on site.<br />
They might even pick you up from your hotel in Sofia. <strong>In</strong> addition:<br />
fully staffed riding stables with 10 horses, football and basketball<br />
playgrounds, fitness club, hotel and restaurant. Q AFK<br />
St.Sofia Golf Club & SPA C-5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shose<br />
9 (office), tel. 943 45 05/0889 783 888, fax 943 45 04,<br />
office@stsofiagolf.com, www.stsofiagolf.com. <strong>In</strong> Ravno<br />
Pole village - 15 minutes drive southeast of the city centre.<br />
Eighteen hole course with English-speaking management.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.<br />
Horse-riding<br />
Equestrian Base Egida E-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 1,<br />
tel. 865 71 56/0898 643 848, www.egida-sofia.bg.<br />
Located near the centre, on the fringes of Borisovata gradina<br />
park, this is a handy place to take lessons if you’re a beginner.<br />
20min-15Lv, 30min-20Lv, 60min-35Lv, pony ride 2Lv per<br />
round. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Equestrian Base Han Asparuh G-6, ul. Haidushko<br />
izvorche 28, tel. 955 90 72/930 07 02, nsb_ead@abv.<br />
bg, www.bulgariasportbase.com. 5km southwest of the<br />
centre near the Slavia football stadium. Lots of nice gee gees.<br />
You have to go on the spot to enquire about riding or tuition.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Nova Zvezda G-6, Knyazhevo area, villa area Kiliyte,<br />
tel. 944 76 52/0895 770 777, info@ezdabg.com, www.<br />
ezdabg.com. Horse-riding: 40 min-15Lv, 1 h-20Lv , 1 Day<br />
-70Lv. Equestrian tourism, bow and arrow, visiting of hunting<br />
forestry, 1, 2 and 3 day tours, organizing of parties and team<br />
buildings with horses and exotic animals.<br />
<strong>In</strong>door swimming pools<br />
Spartak E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 865 64 71/963 13<br />
37, office@spartabg.com, www.spartabg.com. Popular<br />
50m Olympic swimming pool next door to the Harmony Sofia<br />
hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Sport Palace C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 75, tel. 930 05 02.<br />
Most central of the pools, 25m, and correspondingly popular.<br />
Entry ticket 5Lv, ticket to pool and sauna 7Lv , 8 visits ticket<br />
36Lv, 12 visits 54Lv. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 -<br />
16:00. Closed Sun. DC<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Open-air skating rinks Shooting ranges<br />
Gradska Gradina park B-3, Accross from the National<br />
Art Gallery. On the weekend and holidays works<br />
24h. Admission: 3-4Lv. Skate rental: 3-5Lv. For pupils its<br />
free from 08:00-09:20. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Winter Park C-5, pl. Orlov Most (Orlov bridge),<br />
Ariana Lake. Temporary outdoor ice-rink, snowboard<br />
and ski Big Air Jump, rails, fun box, big air bag, quarter<br />
pipe. Skates for hire. 3Lv per hour and 7Lv for the day.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. L<br />
Paintball<br />
Paintball BG bul. Akademik Ivan E. Geshov 50, tel.<br />
952 37 05/0888 511 456, info@paintball.bg, www.<br />
paintball.bg. Paintball adventures in the Dragalevtsi area<br />
just south of the city. 15Lv per game with 100 balls, each<br />
additional 20 balls are 3Lv.<br />
Paintball <strong>Bulgaria</strong> H-8, zh-k Mladost 4, ul. 406, opposite<br />
bl. 469, tel. 484 01 43/0898 747 474, alex@<br />
paintballbulgaria.com, www.paintballbulgaria.com.<br />
Paintball games on and around Mount Vitosha just south<br />
of Sofia. 20 Lv per game with 100 balls, 30Lv with 200<br />
balls, 33Lv with 250 balls, 51Lv with 500 balls. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Paintball Mania G-8, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1, tel. 0888<br />
123 321/489 794, info@paintballmania.bg, www.<br />
paintballmania.bg. Air Ball - paintball field with inflated<br />
bunkers; Battle Field - with real military machinery, training<br />
range with falling targets. Bookings for groups of min.<br />
10 people - at least 2 days in advance. One ball - 0,10Lv,<br />
equippment - 5Lv. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
sPorts<br />
VIP Shooting Complex G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 51,<br />
tel. 976 60 25/0885 920 557, service@vipgunscenter.<br />
com, www.vipgunscenter.com. Several ranges, professional<br />
instructors, modern guns. Sports club, shops and gun<br />
workshop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. K<br />
Stadium<br />
Natsionalen Stadion Vasil Levski C-5, Borisova<br />
gradina, tel. 930 06 66/930 07 51.<br />
Stadion Bulgarska Armia D-5, Borisova Gradina, tel.<br />
963 34 77.<br />
Stadion Georgi Asparuhov - Gerena F-8, kv.Suhata<br />
reka, tel. 945 30 46.<br />
Stadion Lokomotiv F-7, kv.Nadezhda, tel. 936 03 56.<br />
Stadion Slavia G-6, kv. Ovcha Kupel, tel. 980 05<br />
08/980 49 87.<br />
Tennis & Squash<br />
Academic Tennis Club ul. Nezabravka 3-5, Borisovata<br />
gradina, tel. 870 01 36, info@utcakademic.com, www.<br />
utcakademic.com. Outdoor and indoor courts with professional<br />
trainers, sauna, massage and fitness in the park right<br />
in the heart of Sofia. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 08:30<br />
- 14:00. JFKD<br />
Maleevi Tennis Club G-7/8, bul. Nikola Vapzarov 57,<br />
tel. 962 22 88/0878 622 282, fax 962 86 65, info@maleevaclub.com,<br />
www.maleevaclub.com. 09:00-19:00Tennis,<br />
squash, tennis school, fitness, massage, Thai massage, solarium,<br />
hairdresser, cosmetics, restaurant, bar, events hosting<br />
and shop. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Maxi Club H-7, bul. Simeonovsko shose 110, tel. 962 23<br />
04, dilieva@maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
67
68 BUs<strong>In</strong>ess dIreCtory<br />
Accountants & Consultants<br />
AFA B-5, ul. Oborishte 38, tel. 943 37 00, fax 943 37<br />
07, office@afa.bg, www.afa.bg.<br />
Andi Maks Ltd. B-2, ul. Denkoglu 12-14, tel. 980 24<br />
91, fax 986 29 62, office@andi-maks.com.<br />
Deloitte B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliiski 103, tel. 802<br />
33 00, fax 802 33 50, www.deloitte.com.<br />
Ernst & Young H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 10,<br />
tel. 817 71 00, fax 817 71 11, www.ey.com.<br />
Eurobalance Ltd. G-8, ul. Karnegi 10, tel. 980 77 47,<br />
eurobalance@abv.bg, www.eurobalance.net.<br />
Four Consult G-7, ul. Racho Dimchev 8, tel. 981 30<br />
82/0897 886 925, daniela@fourconsult.com, www.<br />
fourconsult.com.<br />
Grant Thornton C-3, ul.Uliam Gladston 54, tel. 980<br />
55 00, fax 980 48 24, office@gtbulgaria.com, www.<br />
gtbulgaria.com.<br />
KPMG D-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 37, tel. 969 73 00, fax<br />
980 53 40, office@kpmg.bg, www.kpmg.bg.<br />
Price Waterhouse Coopers B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11,<br />
tel. 935 52 00, fax 935 52 66, www.pwc.com.<br />
Advertising agencies<br />
Huts JWT G-8, ul. Charlz Darvin 14B, tel. 971 71<br />
95/971 71 96, fax 971 71 78, info@hutsjwt.com, www.<br />
hutsjwt.com.<br />
Leo Burnett G-8, ul. Maragidik 6, tel. 943 44 51, fax<br />
943 41 65, office@leoburnett.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
McCann Erickson G-8, bul. Shipchenski prohod 63,<br />
tel. 971 96 41, fax 971 95 04, office@mccann.bg, www.<br />
universalmccann.com.<br />
Ogilvy & Mather C-1, ul. Dospat 60-62, tel. 952 34 00,<br />
fax 953 34 19, info@ogilvy.bg, www.ogilvy.bg.<br />
Banks<br />
BNP Paribas <strong>Bulgaria</strong> B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 2,<br />
tel. 921 86 40, fax 921 86 95, bulgaria_bnpparibas@<br />
bnpparibas.com, www.bulgaria.bnpparibas.com.<br />
Bulbank - Uni Credit Group B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 7,<br />
tel. 923 21 11, fax 988 46 36, www.bulbank.bg.<br />
Corporate commercial bank B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 10,<br />
tel. 980 93 62, fax 980 89 48, corpbank@corpbank.bg,<br />
www.corpbank.bg.<br />
First <strong>In</strong>vestment Bank ul. Stefan Karadzha 10, tel. 91<br />
001, fax 980 50 33, fib@fibank.bg, www.fibank.bg.<br />
HVB Bank Biochim B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 1, tel. 926 92<br />
10, fax 926 94 40.<br />
ING Bank D-1, ul. Emil Bersinski 12, tel. 917 64 00, fax<br />
917 65 78, ing.infobg@ingbank.com, www.ing.bg.<br />
OBB (United <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Bank) B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia<br />
5, tel. 811 28 00, fax 988 08 22, info@ubb.bg, www.<br />
ubb.bg.<br />
Poshtenska banka (<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Post Bank) B-4, bul.<br />
Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 816 60 00, fax 988 81 10,<br />
contact@postbank.bg, www.postbank.bg.<br />
Pro Credit Bank A-2, bul. Hristo Botev 131, tel. 921<br />
71 00, fax 921 71 10, contact@procreditbank.bg, www.<br />
procreditbank.bg.<br />
Raiffeisen Bank C-5, ul. Nikolay Gogol 18-20, tel. 919<br />
85 101, fax 943 45 28, www.raiffeisen.bg.<br />
SG Expressbank B-1, bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 73,<br />
tel. 937 04 76, fax 981 79 17, www.sgexpressbank.bg.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n officials<br />
Council of Ministers B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 1, tel.<br />
940 27 70, fax 980 20 56, gis@government.bg, www.<br />
government.bg.<br />
Ministry of Foreign Affairs G-8, ul. Aleksandar<br />
Zhendov 2, tel. 948 29 99, fax 870 30 41, iprd@mfa.<br />
government.bg, www.mfa.government.bg.<br />
National Assembly B-4, pl. Narodno Sabranie 2, tel.<br />
939 39, fax 981 31 31, infocenter@parliament.bg, www.<br />
parliament.bg.<br />
Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2, tel. 923 93 33,<br />
press@president.bg, www.president.bg..<br />
Business connections<br />
American Chamber of Commerce H-8, Business<br />
Park Sofia, Building 2, tel. 974 27 43, fax 974 27 41,<br />
amcham@amcham.bg, www.amcham.bg.<br />
Atlantic Club of <strong>Bulgaria</strong> C-4, ul. Slavyanska 29, tel.<br />
981 06 99, fax 981 57 82, natoinfo@natoinfo.bg.<br />
British <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Chamber of Commerce G-8, ul.<br />
Nikolay Haytov 2, entr.5, 1st floor, tel./fax 971 47 56,<br />
info@bbcc.bg, www.bbcc.bg.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> Economic Forum C-2, bul. Vitosha 86, tel.<br />
951 52 59, fax 953 29 24, info@biforum.org, www.<br />
biforum.org.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Business Leaders Forum C-4, ul. Slavyanska<br />
42, tel. 986 52 02, fax 986 56 25, office@bblf.bg,<br />
www.bblf.bg.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Dutch Business Club B-2, ul. Sofroniy<br />
Vrachanski 1, tel. 987 99 11, chairman@bg-nl.com,<br />
www.bg-nl.com.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Chamber of Commerce and <strong>In</strong>dustry<br />
A-5, ul. Iskar 9, tel. 987 26 31, fax 987 32 09, bcci@<br />
bcci.bg, www.bcci.bg.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n <strong>In</strong>dustrial Assosiation B-2, ul. Alabin 16-<br />
20, tel. 932 09 11, fax 987 26 04, office@bia-bg.com,<br />
www.bia-bg.com.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n <strong>In</strong>ternational Business Association B-1,<br />
bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 55, tel. 981 95 64, fax 981<br />
91 69, office@biba.bg.<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Stock Exchange B-2, ul. Tri ushi 10, tel.<br />
937 09 34, fax 937 09 46, bse@bse-sofia.bg, www.<br />
bse-sofia.bg.<br />
European Commission Representation B-3, ul.<br />
Moskovska 9, tel. 933 52 52, fax 933 52 33, delegationbulgaria@ec.europa.eu,<br />
www.evropa.bg.<br />
German-<strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Trade and <strong>In</strong>dustrial Chamber<br />
G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25A, tel. 816 30 10, fax 816 30 19,<br />
ahk-office@ahk-bg.org.<br />
<strong>In</strong>stitute for Market Economics B-5, bul. Patriarh<br />
Evtimii 61, tel. 952 62 66, mail@ime.bg, www.ime.<br />
bg.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Monetary Fund Representative Office<br />
B-3, BNB, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 981 45<br />
06, fax 981 25 24, jroaf@imf.org.<br />
<strong>In</strong>vest <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Agency B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 985<br />
55 00, fax 980 13 20, iba@investbg.government.bg,<br />
www.investbg.government.bg.<br />
Italian Chamber of Commerce B-5, ul. Oborishte<br />
1B, tel. 846 32 80, fax 846 32 81, info@camcomit.bg,<br />
www.camcomit.bg.<br />
North American <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Chamber of Commerce<br />
C-1, ul. Petko Karavelov 1A, tel. 951 53 87, fax 951 69<br />
84, bulgaria@nabcc.org, www.nabcc.org.<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
OJB Shalom bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 50, tel. 870<br />
163, www.shalom.bg.<br />
Privatisation Agency C-4, ul. Aksakov 29, tel./fax<br />
980 98 27, press@priv.government.bg., www.priv.<br />
government.bg.<br />
United Nations in <strong>Bulgaria</strong> C-3, ul. Han Krum 25,<br />
tel. 969 61 00, fax 981 31 84, info@undp.bg, www.<br />
un-bg.bg.<br />
World Bank G-8, <strong>In</strong>terpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, tel.<br />
969 72 29, fax 971 20 45, itaushanova@worldbank.bg,<br />
www.worldbank.bg.<br />
Business facilities<br />
Business Park Sofia H-8, Mladost 4, tel. 489 90 81,<br />
fax 489 90 80, office@businesspark-sofia.com, www.<br />
businesspark-sofia.com. Office space accommodating over<br />
200 companies, restaurants, cafes, shops, banks.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ter Expo Center G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 147,<br />
tel. 965 52 20, fax 965 52 30, bul-reklama@bulgarreklama.com,<br />
www. bulgarreklama.com. Exhibition<br />
and congress complex with 8 separate halls, restaurants<br />
and cafes.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terpred World Trade Centre G-8, bul. Dragan<br />
Tsankov 36, tel. 969 50 52, fax 971 20 06, bsc@<br />
wtcsofia.bg, www.wtcsofia.bg. Rentable office space,<br />
conference facilities.<br />
Sterling Serviced Office Group B-3, ul. Suborna 2A,<br />
tel. 926 41 11, fax 926 41 00, sofia@sterlingoffice.<br />
com, www.sterlingoffice.com. The only serviced office<br />
centre in Sofia.<br />
Event organisers<br />
Company for <strong>In</strong>ternational Meetings Ltd. B-3,<br />
ul. Hristo Belchev 18, tel. 987 74 22, fax 980 60 74,<br />
cim@cim-pco.org, www.cim-pco.org. Leading congress<br />
organizer.<br />
Event House G-7, ul. Topli Dol 2A, tel. 958 99 99, fax<br />
958 99 70, office@eventhouse.bg, www.eventhouse.<br />
bg. Conference halls, interpreters, catering.<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
BUs<strong>In</strong>ess dIreCtory<br />
Sterling Serviced Office Group<br />
Prime Locations. First-Class Environments.<br />
Exceptional Services<br />
<strong>In</strong>stant, Flexible, Affordable<br />
2a Saborna Street, 1000 Sofia, <strong>Bulgaria</strong><br />
Tel: +359 (0) 2 926 4111<br />
sofia@sterlingoffice.com<br />
www.sterlingoffice.com<br />
Kongresstechnik <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Ltd. E-1, bul. Arsenalski<br />
115, tel. 866 94 40, fax 866 94 57, office@ktbg.bg, www.<br />
ktbg.bg. Full range of conference equipment and services.<br />
Foreign representations<br />
Albania B-5, ul. Krakra 10, tel. 943 38 57, fax 943 30<br />
69, albanian@centrum-grup.com.<br />
Austria B-4, ul. Shipka 4, tel. 932 90 32, fax 981 05<br />
67, sofia-ob@bmaa.gv.at.<br />
Belgium E-4, pl. Velchova zavera 1, tel. 988 72 90,<br />
fax 963 36 38, sofia@diplobel.be, www.diplomatie.<br />
be/sofia.<br />
Canada B-4, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 969 97 10, fax 981<br />
60 81, consular@canada-bg.org.<br />
Croatia B-5, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 32, tel. 943 32 25, fax<br />
946 13 55, croemb.sofia@mvp.hr, www.infotel.bg/<br />
croembassy.<br />
Cyprus E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 1A, tel. 961 77 31, fax 862<br />
94 70, cyprus@mbox.contact.bg.<br />
Czech Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 946<br />
11 11, fax 946 18 00, sofia@embassy.mzv.cz, www.<br />
mzv.cz/sofia.<br />
Denmark B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54, tel. 917 01 00,<br />
fax 980 99 01, sofamb@um.dk, www.ambsofia.um.dk.<br />
Estonia B-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 937 99 00, fax<br />
937 99 09, embassy.sofia@mfa.ee.<br />
Finland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-28, tel. 810 21 10, fax<br />
810 21 20, sanomat.sof@formin.fi.<br />
France B-5, ul. Oborishte 27-29, tel. 965 11 00, fax 965<br />
11 20, presse@ambafrance-bg.org, www.ambafrancebg.org.<br />
Germany G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25, tel. 918 380, fax 963<br />
16 58, reg1@sofia.diplo.de, www.sofia.diplo.de.<br />
Greece C-5, ul. San Stefano 33, tel. 843 30 85, fax<br />
946 12 49, info@greekembassy-sofia.org, www.info.<br />
greekembassy-sofia.org.<br />
Hungary D-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 57, tel. 963 11 35, fax<br />
963 21 10, huemszof@netbg.com.<br />
China H-8, ul. Aleksandar fon Humbolt 7, tel. 973 38<br />
73, fax 971 10 81, www.chinaembassy.bg.<br />
Ireland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 985 34 25, fax<br />
983 33 02, info@embassyofireland.bg.<br />
Israel D-2, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 951 50 44, fax 952 11 01,<br />
info@sofia.mfa.gov.il.<br />
Italy B-4, ul. Shipka 2, tel. 921 73 00, fax 980 37 17,<br />
ambasciata.sofia@esteri.it, www.ambsofia.esteri.it.<br />
Japan G-8, Lyulyakova gradina 14, tel. 971 27 08, fax<br />
971 10 95, www.bg.emb-japan.go.jp.<br />
Korea H-8, ul. Sofiysko pole 3, tel. 975 33 40, fax 974<br />
55 67, saebyolk�@yahoo.com.<br />
Macedonia G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 17, tel. 870 50 98, fax<br />
971 28 32, todmak@bgnet.bg.<br />
Netherlands G-8, ul. Oborishte 15, tel. 816 03 00,<br />
fax 816 03 01, sof@minbuza.nl, www.netherlandsembassy.bg.<br />
Norway B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54B, tel. 981 11 06,<br />
fax 981 90 10, emb.sofia@mfa.no, www.norvegia.bg.<br />
January - March 2009<br />
69
70 BUs<strong>In</strong>ess dIreCtory<br />
Poland C-3, ul. Han Krum 46, tel. 987 26 10, fax 987 29<br />
39, polamba@internet-bg.net, www.polamba-bg.org.<br />
Portugal B-1, ul. Pozitano 9, tel. 921 68 68, fax 921 68<br />
21, embpor@sofia.dgaccp.pt.<br />
Romania G-8, bul. Mihai Eminesku 4, tel. 971 28 58,<br />
fax 971 36 19, ambsofro@vip.bg.<br />
Russia G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 28, tel. 963 09 14, fax<br />
963 41 03, info@rusembul.org.<br />
Serbia G-8, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 3, tel. 946 16 33, fax 946<br />
10 59, sofia@emb-serbia.com, www.emb-serbia.com.<br />
Slovak Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 942 92<br />
10, fax 942 92 35, embassy@sofia.mfa.sk.<br />
South Africa A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26, tel. 981 66 82, fax<br />
981 57 76, saembsof@techno-link.com.<br />
Spain C-5, ul. Sheynovo 27, tel. 948 99 11, embespbg@<br />
mail.mae.es, www.embespbg.com.<br />
Sweden G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 4, tel. 930 19 60, fax 973<br />
37 95, ambassaden.sofia@foreign.ministry.se, www.<br />
swedenabroad.com/sofia.<br />
Switzerland G-8, ul. Shipka 33, tel. 942 01 00, fax<br />
946 16 22, vertretung@sof.rep.admin.ch, www.eda.<br />
admin.ch/sofia.<br />
Turkey C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 80, tel. 935 55 00, fax 981<br />
93 58, turksofya@spnet.net.<br />
Ukraine G-6, ul. Boryana 29, tel. 818 68 28, fax 955<br />
52 47, puvrb@mbox.contact.bg, http://www.mfa.gov.<br />
ua/bulgaria.<br />
United Kingdom B-3, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 933 92<br />
22, fax 933 92 19, britembinf@mail.orbitel.bg, www.<br />
british-embassy.bg.<br />
USA G-7, ul. Kozyak 16, tel. 937 51 00, fax 937 53 20,<br />
irc@usembassy.bg, www.usembassy.bg.<br />
Lawyers<br />
Arsov Natchev Ganeva B-5, ul. Shipka 36, tel. 943<br />
40 66, fax 946 33 48, info@anglaw.com, www.anglaw.<br />
com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dia Consult C-2, ul. Uzundzhovska 16, tel. 981 91<br />
78, fax 980 20 26, diacon@mail.techno-link.com,<br />
www.diaconsult.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Dimitrov, Petrov & Co. C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimii 36,<br />
tel. 987 70 96, fax 988 73 60, info@dpc.bg, www.dpc.<br />
bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Kambourov & Partners C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel.<br />
986 99 99, fax 986 99 95, office@kambourov.biz, www.<br />
kambourov.biz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Stoichev, Valkov & Co. Law firm ul. Damian Gruev<br />
20, fl.4, apt.9, tel. 852 69 99/852 49 99. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Office supplies<br />
Multirama C-3, ul. Solunska 2, tel. 400 66 20, office@<br />
multirama.bg, www.multirama.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Office 1 Superstore G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 139,<br />
tel. 070 010 700, fax 070 010 701, tm@hq.office1,<br />
www.office1.bg. Q A<br />
Office Express H-9, bul. Tsarigratsko shose 135, tel.<br />
0800 1 80 80, offex@offex.bg, www.offex.bg. Office<br />
delivery service. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Real estate<br />
Address B-5, pl. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 1, tel. 810 33 44, address@<br />
address.bg, www.address.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Bokar bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 36A, tel. 910 10 10, fax<br />
986 60 63, bokar.imoti@dir.bg, www.bokar-imoti.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Colliers <strong>In</strong>ternational H-8, Business Park Sofia,<br />
Mladost 4, Bulding 7B, tel. 976 99 77/0888 372 091,<br />
ivan.velikov@colliers.com, www.colliers.com. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Discover <strong>Bulgaria</strong> Properties H-8, Mladost-4, bl.<br />
473, vh.2-3, tel. 881 57 14, fax 881 53 32, properties@<br />
discover-bulgaria.com, properties.discover-bulgaria.<br />
com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Elta Consult B-4, bul. Aleksandar Dondukov 13, tel. 987<br />
76 47/0888 601 846, office@eltaconsult.com. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Grato <strong>In</strong>vestment G-7, bul. <strong>Bulgaria</strong> 102, Business<br />
Centre Bellissimo, office 2, tel. 428 13 08/0885 665<br />
730, fax 428 13 07, office@gratoinvestment.com,<br />
www.gratoinvestments.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>tertime Continental B-4, ul. G. Rakovski 146,<br />
tel. 0888 77 27 61, fax 987 01 13, intertime@911.<br />
bg, www.intertime.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Tvoyat dom (<strong>Your</strong> Home) C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel.<br />
986 48 22/0888 65 82 81, fax 987 52 88, info@tvoyatdom.com,<br />
www.tvoyatdom.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Winslow Developments center Serdika,floor 2, office<br />
204, tel. 920 00 72, fax 920 17 82, info@winslowdevelopments.com,<br />
www.winslowdevelopments.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Yavlena B-3, ul. Gen. Gurko 76A, tel. 810 50/0887 73<br />
10 06, office@yavlena.com, www.yavlena.com.<br />
Free downloads, videos, comments<br />
and exclusive features: all online at<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
Europe’s online city guide<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Being established back in the year 1896, Borovets is the<br />
oldest ski resort in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>.The name of the place used<br />
to be “Cham Koria”, which means “Pine forest” in Turkish.<br />
Since the middle of the 20th century it is called “Borovets”,<br />
which comes from the <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n word for pine-tree – “bor”.<br />
There are ski paths, hotels, pubs, night bars, ski and<br />
snowboard schools, horse back riding schools, multiple<br />
souvenir and ski equipment shops and quite a lot of ice,<br />
covering the several asphalted streets and suitable for<br />
practicing your balance and falling skills.<br />
The altimeter reads1350 meters in the center “square”, and<br />
the view spans down the northern slopes of Rila Mountain.<br />
It is easily accessible from Sofia, which is only 70 kilometers<br />
away. Going by car should not be so hard if you follow the<br />
signs on the road and don’t get lost in the beautiful views<br />
of the huge Iskar dam – the biggest in <strong>Bulgaria</strong>. Getting by<br />
bus is also enjoyable, once you find Bus Station “South”,<br />
which is hidden beneath the bridge, next to the <strong>In</strong>terpred<br />
Trade Center (see map G-8, it is just under the letter “I” in<br />
“Iztok”on Boulevard Dragan Tsankov, number 36.<br />
Busses and mini-van shuttle buses arrive on Samokov bus<br />
station every half an hour. The town of Samokov is only 10<br />
kilometers away from Borovets and to get there you will<br />
need to catch another mini-bus or a taxi. The bus trip will<br />
cost you only 8 Lv.<br />
Bars, Clubs & Discos<br />
Bar Harps. Next to the Gondola, tel. 0898 462 757.<br />
This place is brand new, built and furnished with love, finesse<br />
and the best of materials. It is fairly big and with a nice bar,<br />
sound system, big plasma TV screen (with SKYSPORTS) and<br />
a WC with the first square seat we have ever seen. They will<br />
never play chalga and are definitely among the most polite<br />
people we met in Borovets. The place offers some classic<br />
English types of beer which will make you remember good<br />
old buddies back there in the neighborhood pub. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 03:00. I<br />
BUZZ Bar. Next to the Rila Hotel, tel. 0889 955 955,<br />
disco.bg/buzzbar. Something is definitely buzzing in Borovets<br />
and it couldn’t be anything else then the notorious BUZZ bar.<br />
This is the preferred fun place for all those who love late hour<br />
sofia.inyourpocket.com<br />
Borovets<br />
partying with Dance, House and mostly Hip and Hit music.<br />
No chalga CD-s on any of the shelves, but bottles of various<br />
brands and shapes, ready to push out the air of any bar glass.<br />
SKYSPORTS on the big plasma can give a good reason for some<br />
beers to end up empty. QOpen 20.00 - 04.00. P<br />
The Blue. Next to Rila Hotel on the street going uphill,<br />
tel. 0878 105 077. <strong>In</strong> the small street across the Rila Hotel,<br />
there is a blue magical place, called the Blue. It is actually quite<br />
colourfull, full of all those spiritual and cool little thingies, sold<br />
by hippie-style girls in the souvenir art shops. It is a little kitsch<br />
, but cosy and very pleasant and relaxing for the snow-tired<br />
eye. They serve English cuisine and all types of alcohol, play<br />
nice music and keep the fireplace booming. They will work as<br />
long as you stay there. (20-30 Lv) QOpen 10:30 - 04:00.<br />
IBKW<br />
Hotels<br />
Complex Alpin. tel. 32 203/32 201, office@alpin-hotel.<br />
bg, www.alpin-hotel.bg. Do not take Alpin Complex at face<br />
value. Although three star qualified, it is a neat and comfortable<br />
place, across the mammoth Rila hotel and close to the<br />
lifts. It has double, single rooms and one and two storey villas.<br />
Especially nice is the VIP apartment, which is romantic and<br />
luxurious and has a plasma TV set and a bubble bath. The<br />
rooms all have stereos, cable TV and WiFi, as well as bath<br />
tubs. Except for a swimming pool and a gym, they offer most<br />
“classic” hotel features: mini bars, sauna, conference room,<br />
and a restaurant with room service. The brown and beige<br />
furniture of the rooms and cozy villas is a nice break from<br />
the overly present gleaming white. Q22 rooms (5 doubles<br />
€ 17-40, 2 studios, 1 Vip apartment, 8 villas). The prices are<br />
for person for day. TALGKDW hhh<br />
Forest Star. tel. 32 021, forest_star@abv.bg. It is next to<br />
the lift, literally and also one of the few local tourist facilities,<br />
which try to break the mold. With its entrance area, resembling<br />
a rock cave, this place would be a refuge for younger ones,<br />
bored with the look-alike style of local hotels. It lacks the ever<br />
present pools, Jacuzzis and saunas, but still has a neat bistro,<br />
comfortable and tidy rooms and hospitable staff. Q20<br />
rooms (20 doubles €26 - 31). JAILGKSW hh<br />
Guest House Momina Salza. tel. 32 573, www.mominasalza.com.<br />
It is a beautiful hotel house, 100 meters from<br />
the Gondola. Do not fear the big black dog, he is a wise and<br />
good beast. This place has nothing to do with the stereotypical<br />
hotel, it’s a nice spacious house with apartments for guests<br />
and common big kitchen and dining room for them to use. There<br />
is also a bar in the basement with a booming fireplace. Guests<br />
can use solarium and sauna in the cold days and have patriotic<br />
style barbecues if the weather allows it. Q6 rooms (5 doubles<br />
€13 - 31, 1 apartment €21 - 46). ILBD hhh<br />
Hotel Deniv. tel. 32 253, hotel-deniv@diartbg.com.<br />
Neighboring and connected to “Forest Star” via a underground<br />
pass, this small hotel is still a little untidy, but will hopefully be<br />
ok for the tourist season. It is perfect for all budget skiers and<br />
travelers and offers accommodation slightly better than in a<br />
mountain hut. It has a huge, folklore-styled mehana. Q14<br />
rooms (13 doubles €13, 1 quad €13). Prices are per person,<br />
no breakfast included. ALGKSW hh<br />
� The Borovets<br />
telephone code is: 0750<br />
January - March 2009<br />
71
72 Borovets<br />
Hotel Ela. tel. 32 271, office@hotelela.com, www.<br />
hotelela.com. With its classic wooden sloped outlook,<br />
this hotel reminds us of the “happy” years of communism.<br />
The restaurant and lobby bar will keep you well fed and in<br />
a drinking mood. For the sporty types there’s a gym, table<br />
tennis and billiards room. The sauna and steam bath will<br />
revitalize your body after a good day of skiing, but nothing<br />
will do better than a good sleep in the comfy rooms.<br />
They will take you with your dogs and even take care of<br />
any wild kids in their kindergarten. There is a ski school<br />
and even a pharmacy on their premises. Q70 rooms (19<br />
singles €16 - 36, 51 doubles €16 - 36). H6IFLG�<br />
BKDW hhh<br />
Hotel Lion. tel. 33 015, fax 33 030, avramov@<br />
hotelslion.bg. Hidden in the forest above the “old town”,<br />
this hotel is a true gem. Its accommodations are luxurious,<br />
tastefully furnished and spacious, with mini bars and plasma<br />
TV sets and kitchenettes in the studios and apartments. Six<br />
of the rooms and the hotel itself are adapted for disabled<br />
persons. Silence and pine trees surround this serene location<br />
and I bet there is no better way to enjoy the falling snow,<br />
than relaxing in the superb pool of the hotel. There are many<br />
more things to see and experience there: the stylish lobby<br />
bar, the mehana, the Turkish bath, pool and tennis tables,<br />
solar and hairdresser studio. Although quite far from the<br />
lifts, the hotel has a shuttle bus, which can take you to the<br />
slopes in minutes. Q161 rooms (5 apartments € 90-180,<br />
24 studios € 75-175, 62 doubles € 60-130, 65 luxury rooms<br />
€ 65-150). HAUIFGBKDC hhhh<br />
Hotel Sokol. tel. 33 434, fax 33 444, hot_sokol@abv.<br />
bg. Separated from the fuss of the main street, this small,<br />
but stylish and comfortable hotel is a perfect alternative<br />
for those, detesting yelling drunks and striving for privacy<br />
and silence. Lying in the winter garden, watching the snow<br />
on the huge pine trees, you can leave all worries to their<br />
polite and friendly staff and enjoy the spa and massage<br />
center and the Finnish Jacuzzi. The rooms have mini bars<br />
and flat TV sets and are tastefully furnished. There is also<br />
a gym and a conference room, in case you are not so lazy.<br />
The premises and rooms are fitted for disabled persons,<br />
but no pets are allowed in the hotel. It has a superb view<br />
to the famous frozen fountain of Borovets. Q42 rooms (40<br />
doubles €23 - 52, 2 apartments €41 - 72). ARUI�<br />
FLGKD hhh<br />
Ice Angels Across the Rila, tel. 32 045/32 607,<br />
reservations@iceangelshotel.com, www.iceangelshotel.com.<br />
Hotel Ice Angels is the perfect vacation spot in<br />
Borovets, close to the lifts and all the bars and offering<br />
all the comforts needed for enjoying winter sports. The<br />
place is tastefully designed, luxurious, but not shiny and<br />
pretentious. The rooms are comfortable and decorated<br />
with style and most of them offer a splendid view of the<br />
mountain and the ski runways. There is a nice spa center,<br />
a small pool, steam and Turkish bath, massages and<br />
Jacuzzi. And even if you are too lazy to go downstairs, the<br />
rooms have bathtubs, so you can relax in private. Q 44<br />
rooms (14 singles € 72, 14 doubles € 105, 8 studios €<br />
140-150, 4 apartments € 200-210). JHARIF�<br />
GBKDCW hhhh<br />
Rila Lodge Guest House. Dospey village, ul. 8,<br />
house 3, tel. 66 827/0877 753 092, info@rilalodge.<br />
com, www.rilalodge.com. This family-run B&B is found in<br />
a small village, 2km from Samokov and 9km from Borovets.<br />
They provide pick up service from Sofia airport, transport to<br />
Borovets and discount rent-a-car service. The three-storey<br />
house offers 3 bedrooms, designed with solid wooden and<br />
wicker furniture, cable TV, shared living room with fireplace<br />
and breakfast room. The bathrooms are with showers. If you<br />
feel like peace and quite, away from the hassle of Borovets,<br />
yet, close to Samokov, this is the right place for you. Q3<br />
rooms (1 double €25 - 50, 1 Twin €25 - 50, 1 Family (quad to<br />
6) €100 - 150). A6IBKW<br />
Vila Park. On the buss stop, Old Center, tel. 0899 133<br />
837. Located in the “old center” of Borovets, next to the local<br />
church and the bus stop. It is a spacious apartment complex<br />
with a huge pool, a gym, Jacuzzi and a steam bath. The apartments<br />
and studios are spacious and tastefully furnished to<br />
make you feel home, but you can always drown the blues in<br />
something from the lobby bar, or the mini bar in your quarters.<br />
There is a children’s corner and also a stylish restaurant. Q<br />
86 rooms (26 apartments €40 - 120, 60 Studio €30 - 80).<br />
TJHAUIFLGBKDCW hhhh<br />
Restaurants & Cafes<br />
Bistro Central. tel. 0887 480 787. Being in the centre<br />
and international food is what this place offers and nothing<br />
more. Not a single attempt for fancy decorations, apart from a<br />
stuffed deer head and cheap looking chairs. It has a fireplace,<br />
but this joint is definitely still frozen in socialist times. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 00:00. (15-30 Lv). IGBS<br />
Bistro Elite. Across the Gondola Lift, tel. 32 557. This is<br />
a pleasant place for eating nice, genuine <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n foods and to<br />
drink some homemade wines and rakias. The place is furnished<br />
with wood and is cosy and unpretentious. Combine this with the<br />
snow and the hunger after a day on the slopes and the homely<br />
smell of burning wood and homemade dishes and you’ll know<br />
what we felt there. QOpen 10:00 - 10: 00. (15-24 Lv).<br />
Bistro Forest Star. tel. 0885 612 039, forest_star@<br />
abv.bg. When we entered the bistro, which also doubles as<br />
an entrance area for the hotel “Forest Star”, we thought of<br />
good old Fred Flintstone, as it resembles a rock cave. No Dino<br />
steaks, but everything “traditional” is present and available<br />
for room service and takeaway. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
(14-35Lv). AS<br />
Chinese Restaurant Red Dragon. Next to the Gondola,<br />
tel. 32 617. The first and only place to offer genuine<br />
Chinese food, cooked by a real, “imported” Chinese cook.<br />
Although lacking an original Chinese atmosphere, it has two<br />
fireplaces, cable TV with SKYSPORTS and cool revolving<br />
tables for an easy access to the exotic goodies, served in<br />
big quantities and tasty qualities. They work only within the<br />
skiing season, but do it hard and also deliver food anywhere<br />
in Borovets. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (10-25Lv). IS<br />
Pizza Sunny. tel. 0898 462 757. It is where we had the<br />
best pizza ever, made in the classic “granny” style and taste.<br />
The place itself is cosy, comfortable and with a booming<br />
fireplace. The loads of football scarves hanging from the<br />
ceiling and the pictures of the staff, with loads of short-haired<br />
and tattooed tourists suggest glorious times of boozing<br />
and singing anthems for favourite teams. They offer superb<br />
pizzas, some local and international meals and takeaway<br />
and home deliveries in the area. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
(10-20Lv). JIBS<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
Pizzeria Venezia. tel. 0888 588 677. They use the best<br />
ever advertisement for their food - a pig on a skewer, turning<br />
and spreading an inviting cloud, just in front of Hotel Rila. The<br />
place is “mehana”-styled and offers a variety of national and<br />
international meals, as well as good service and a manager,<br />
always ready for some discount. A good place to fill up your<br />
stomach at. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (8-20Lv). JIB<br />
Restaurant Balkani. tel. 0888 882 234. Definitely the<br />
biggest and lavishly decorated eating place around. A definite<br />
must see location with a lot to offer. Although scandalous<br />
with the combination of some traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n decorations,<br />
chandeliers and animal skins with Turkish corners<br />
with divans and hookahs. Combine that with a seven-piece<br />
gypsy band, pounding furious chalga and you got a serious<br />
party place. They have an impressive menu of traditional,<br />
international and sea food and an extensive wine list. What<br />
we liked especially is the huge indoor barbecue, with a skewer<br />
big enough to spike through a bull. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.<br />
(13-40Lv). IEGBS<br />
Restaurant <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n Dish. tel. 0888 881 515,<br />
hotel-deniv@diartbg.com. It is a big mehana restaurant<br />
and a part of the Deniv Hotel. Although a little big, it still has<br />
a cozy air of a burning fireplace, colourful table mats and<br />
national pride. They serve traditional <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n meals, have DJ<br />
and occasionally a folk music band. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.<br />
(6-26Lv). IES<br />
Restaurant Eagles Rocks. tel. 0889 379 609.<br />
Quite a big space, which provokes eating and drinking to<br />
excess. Just do not try to fly like an eagle from any rocks<br />
nearby. It offers international food and a variety of booze.<br />
The music is mostly chalga and Serbian chalga, but it goes<br />
well with steaks and beers. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (16-<br />
40Lv). IGBS<br />
Snack bar Joy. Next to the Gondola lift. This is a nice<br />
place for a snack or a lunch. They offer pizzas and mostly international<br />
food. The wooden interior and the fireplace, along<br />
with some hot meals will give you relaxation and refreshment<br />
after an exhausting day in the snow. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00.<br />
7 - 15 Lv. AIGBSW<br />
Steak House Katina. tel. 0888 349 179. Nothing wrong,<br />
apart of the misspelled name on the menu. Cosy in the classic,<br />
post-socialistic way. A bit kitsch, but with a booming fireplace<br />
and colorful tablecloths. Next to the mammoth Rila and the<br />
quad lift and offering a big and comprehensive menu with<br />
pictures and prices. The small pizza is really small, so go for<br />
the big ones if you are really hungry. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.<br />
(8-15Lv). JIBS<br />
Shopping<br />
Opticlasa. Sunsport, Royal Plaza shopping complex,<br />
shop 5, opticlasa@trading.bg, www.opticlasa.com.<br />
Souvenir and ceramics shop Ermini. tel. 0899<br />
133 837. <strong>Bulgaria</strong>n traditional souvenirs, art ceramics and<br />
candles. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Winter sports<br />
Ski & snowboard school Snowmasters. tel. 0888<br />
873 789, www.snowmasters-bg.com. Ski, snowboard,<br />
freeride, telemark, blades, kindergarten. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00. J<br />
Ski School Resmi. tel. 0889 234 830, kali_40@<br />
abv.bg. Ski rentals, ski trecking, telemark. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 20:00.<br />
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January - March 2009<br />
73
74 <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Street <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
11-ti avgust A/B-4<br />
13-ti mart D-3<br />
20-ti april B/C-1, C-2<br />
6-ti septemvri B-4, C-3/4, D-3<br />
Aksakov B/C- 3, C-4<br />
Alabin<br />
Aleksandar<br />
B-2/3<br />
Batenberg pl. B-3<br />
Aleksandar Nevski pl.<br />
Aleksandar<br />
B-4<br />
Stamboliyski bul. B-1/2<br />
Angel Kanchev B/C-3<br />
Antim I A-2, B-1/2<br />
Arsenalski bul. E-2<br />
Atanas Dalchev G-8<br />
Baba Nedelya pl. D-2<br />
Bacho Kiro A/B-3<br />
Budapeshta A-3/4, B-4<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> bul. D-1/2<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> pl. C-2<br />
Cherkovna G-8<br />
Cherni vrah bul. D-2/3, E-3<br />
<strong>In</strong>dex<br />
4km Party Centre 38<br />
8th Ball 41<br />
Adams restaurant 35<br />
Adonis 40<br />
Alcohol 38<br />
Alexander Palace 21<br />
Alga 29<br />
Amsterdam 37<br />
Anel 18<br />
Angels Club 41<br />
Annette 29<br />
Apartament 52 35<br />
Apartment House Dunav 23<br />
Apartment House Iztok 23<br />
Apartment House Sofia 23<br />
Aris 22<br />
Art Club Museum 34<br />
Arte 21<br />
Art-Hostel 24<br />
Art 'Otel 18<br />
Atlantic 21<br />
Avenue 42<br />
B29 Piano Bar 41<br />
Babbles 38<br />
Bacardi Box 42<br />
Back Stage 41<br />
Backstage Karaoke Bar 41<br />
Barabar 35<br />
Bar na kraya na vselenata 42<br />
Basic 35<br />
Baskerville 35<br />
Be My Guest 24<br />
Best Western Hotel Expo 19<br />
Biblioteka Cool House - Piano<br />
Bar 41<br />
Bilkovata 35<br />
Bistro Zita 27<br />
Bitburger 37<br />
Black Box 38<br />
Blaze 35<br />
Boyansko hanche 31<br />
Brilyantin 38<br />
Brod 22<br />
Buddha Bar 39<br />
Bulgari 21, 25<br />
<strong>Bulgaria</strong> 34<br />
Butchers 27<br />
By The Way 35<br />
Cabaret 39<br />
Cactus 28<br />
Cappuccino bar & dinner 35<br />
Denkoglu B-2/3<br />
Dragan Tsankov bul. C/D-4, D-5<br />
Dunav A/B-4<br />
Dyakon Ignatiy B-3<br />
Dzheims Baucher E-3/4<br />
Ekzarh Yosif A-2/3/4/5<br />
Elin Pelin D-4/5<br />
Evlogi Georgiev C-4/5, D-3<br />
F. Z. Kyuri G-8<br />
Frityof Nansen C-3, D-2<br />
Garibaldi pl. B-3<br />
Georgi Benkovski A/B-4<br />
Gladston C-2/3<br />
Graf Ignatiev B-3, C-3/4<br />
Gurko B/C-3, C-4<br />
Han Asparuh C-2/3<br />
Han Krum C-3<br />
Hristo Belchev B-3, C-2/3<br />
Hristo Botev bul. A-2, B-2, C-2<br />
Hristo Smirnenski D-4, E-4<br />
Iskar A/B-4, B-3<br />
Ivailo B-2<br />
Captain Cook 31<br />
Cargo 35<br />
Casa Boyana 19<br />
Casa de Cuba 35<br />
Casa Ferrari Bed and<br />
Breakfast 21<br />
Central 19<br />
Central Forum 19<br />
Central Park Hotel 19<br />
Chalet Suisse 32<br />
Checkpoint Charly 28<br />
Chepishev 31<br />
Chervilo 39<br />
Chillout Bar & Dinner 36, 40<br />
Chillout Lounge 36<br />
Classic 29<br />
Club 703 36<br />
Club Liqueur 39<br />
Club Sugar 39<br />
Coffee House 34<br />
Comercial 28<br />
Cookies bar & dinner cafe 28<br />
Costa Coffee 34<br />
Crystal Palace Boutique<br />
Hotel 19<br />
Dedeman Sofia Princess 19<br />
Diter 21<br />
Divaka 25<br />
Don Domat 30<br />
Egur, Egur 25<br />
Elate Plaza 21, 28<br />
Escape 39<br />
Etno 25<br />
Exit Club 40<br />
Fix Mix 34<br />
Flannagans 37<br />
Gioia 29<br />
Grand Hotel Sofia 18<br />
Greenville Hotel & Apartment<br />
Houses 19<br />
Hadzhidraganovite kashti 25<br />
Halbite 25<br />
Happy Bar & Grill 26<br />
Harmony 23<br />
Hilton 18<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Sofia 18<br />
Hostel Mostel 24<br />
Hostel Sofia 24<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet Hostel 24<br />
Irish Harp 37<br />
Jim Beam Club 42<br />
Jimmy's 34<br />
Ivan Shishman B/C-4, C-3<br />
Ivan Vazov B-3/4, C-4<br />
Kaloyan B-3<br />
Knyaz Boris C-1/2<br />
Knyaz Dondukov bul. B-3/4/5<br />
Kozloduy F-7<br />
Kozyak G-7<br />
Krakra B/C-5<br />
Krum Popov D-3/4<br />
Krastyo Sarafov D-3/4<br />
Karnigradska B-2<br />
Lavele B-2<br />
Lege B-3<br />
Lyuben Karavelov C-3/4, D-3<br />
Madrid bul. G-8<br />
Makedonia pl. B-2<br />
Maria Luiza bul. A-3, B-3<br />
Moskovska B-4<br />
Naicho Tsanov bul. F-7<br />
Narodno sabranie pl. B-4<br />
Neofit Rilski C-2/3<br />
Nezavisimost pl. B-3<br />
Nikola Vaptsarov bul. G-7/8<br />
Oborishte B-5<br />
Orlov most C-5<br />
Panayot Volov A-5, B-5<br />
Parchevich C-2/3<br />
Patriarh Evtimiy bul. C-2/3<br />
Pencho<br />
Slaveykov bul. C-1, D-1/2<br />
Pirotska A-1/2, B-3<br />
Pop Bogomil A-3/4<br />
Pozitano B-1/2/3<br />
Praga bul. C-1<br />
Rakovski A-4, B-4<br />
San Stefano C-5<br />
Serdika A-3, B-3<br />
Sheinovo C-5<br />
Shipka B-5<br />
Simeonovsko shose G-8, H-8<br />
Sitnyakovo bul. G-8<br />
Slaveykov pl. C-3<br />
Slavyanska B-3/4, C-4<br />
Sofiiski geroi G-7<br />
Sofroniy Vrachanski A-2, B-2<br />
Solunska B-2, C-3<br />
Stara planina B-4, A-5<br />
J. J. Murphy's 38<br />
Kapri 21<br />
Kempinski Hotel Zografski 18<br />
KFC 30<br />
Kohinoor 27<br />
Kolikovski Hotel 22<br />
Kumbare 26<br />
Kushtata s chasovnika 28<br />
Latinka 22<br />
Lavazza Club 34<br />
Lebed 31<br />
Legends 22<br />
Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel 19<br />
L'Etranger 26<br />
Life House 40<br />
Light 20<br />
Lion 22<br />
London Minute 34<br />
Lozenetz 22<br />
Magdanoz (Parsley) 26<br />
Magnolia 27<br />
Manastirska magernitsa 26<br />
Maskata 42<br />
Maxi Park Hotel & Spa 20<br />
McCarthy's 36<br />
McDonald's Rock'n'Roll 30<br />
Mediterrani 36<br />
Meg Lozenetz 22<br />
Moderato 28<br />
Mon Ami 30<br />
Moskva 30<br />
Motto 36<br />
NAI-klub 41<br />
Niky 23<br />
Onda Coffee Break 34<br />
Opera 36<br />
Orient 33 42<br />
Orisha bar & dinner 36<br />
Otvud aleyata zad shkafa 28<br />
Palms Merkur Casino 38<br />
Park Hotel Vitosha 20<br />
Planeta 41<br />
Pod lipite 26<br />
Pop Bogomil 23<br />
PR 40<br />
Pri Latsi 26<br />
Pri Miro 31<br />
Pri Yafata 26<br />
Pulse Club 40<br />
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel 18<br />
Red Bed and Breakfast 23<br />
Renaissance 22<br />
Stefan Kardzha B-3/4<br />
Saborna B-3<br />
Sv. Naum bul. E-3/4<br />
Sveta Nedelya pl. B-3<br />
Todor Aleksandrov bul. A-1, B-1/2<br />
Totleben bul. C-1<br />
Tri ushi B-2<br />
Triaditsa B-3<br />
Tsar Asen B-2, C-2<br />
Tsar Osvoboditel bul. B-4, C-5<br />
Tsar Samuil B-2, C-2<br />
Tsar Simeon A-1/2/3/4<br />
Tsarigradsko shose G-8, H-9<br />
Tulovo C-5<br />
Tundzha C-1, D-2<br />
Vasil Levski bul. A-4, B-5, C-3/4<br />
Veliko Tarnovo G-8<br />
Veslets A/B-3<br />
Vitosha bul. B/C/D-2, D/E-1<br />
Vladayska B1<br />
Vladimir Vazov bul. G-8<br />
Vazrazhdane pl. B-1/2<br />
Yanko Sakazov bul. B-5<br />
Yuri Venelin C-4<br />
Residence Oborishte 20<br />
Retro club Gramophone 40<br />
RotasaR 23<br />
Ruski klub 31<br />
Sakura 29<br />
Salsa plus 40<br />
Scotty's Boutique Hotel 22<br />
Seasons 28<br />
Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan 18<br />
Shipka 23<br />
SkyWay Hotel 20<br />
Social Jazz Club 41<br />
Sofia Guesthouse 24<br />
Sofia Plaza 20<br />
Starbucks café 34<br />
Stroezha 42<br />
Sushi Bar 29<br />
Sveta Sofia 20<br />
Swingin' Hall 41<br />
Taboo Club 41<br />
Taj Mahal 27<br />
Tambuktu 31<br />
Tazka 29<br />
Tea House 36<br />
The Black Lodge 40<br />
The Blue Box 40<br />
The Bookies 34<br />
The Club 41<br />
The Net 42<br />
The Rooms 24<br />
Toba&Co 36<br />
Toucan Bluzz & Rock 42<br />
Triada 20<br />
Trikrakoto pile 28<br />
Trops Kushta 30<br />
Troyantsite 28<br />
Tsarsko Selo 20<br />
Tsentralni hali 30<br />
Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red<br />
Line) 36<br />
Ugo 30<br />
Uno Enoteca 28<br />
Upstairs 37<br />
Vagabond 31<br />
Variety 24<br />
Vega Sofia Hotel 21<br />
Victoria 30<br />
Vishnite 29<br />
Vodenitzata 31<br />
Vratata (The Door) 29<br />
Yalta 40<br />
Yesterday Karaoke Bar 41<br />
Sofia <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sofia.inyourpocket.com
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78 streets & MaPs<br />
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