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R E S T A U R A N T P O L L B A L L O T P . 4 6 - The Austin Chronicle

R E S T A U R A N T P O L L B A L L O T P . 4 6 - The Austin Chronicle

R E S T A U R A N T P O L L B A L L O T P . 4 6 - The Austin Chronicle

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Are YouGoing toEat That?BY B ELINDA ACOSTAJamieOliverRead the<strong>Chronicle</strong> online.<strong>The</strong> mostly likeable and borderline spasticBritish chef Jamie Oliver, formerly of FoodNetwork fame, has hit U.S. prime-time TVwith his new reality series, Jamie Oliver’sFood Revolution. His goal? Change theeating patterns of the U.S. one small townat a time. In this six-episode series, Oliverhas descended upon the “unhealthiest cityin America,” Huntington, W.Va., to spreadthe gospel of good eating. Obesity reigns inHuntington, along with lack of exercise anda dearth of fresh fruits and vegetables on thepublic school lunch menu (where many ofHuntington’s schoolchildren, as in placeselsewhere in the nation, get their only reliablemeal of the day).In one provocative early episode, Olivergathered students, teachers, and parents fora show-and-tell to visualize the amount offat they were consuming in a typical monthof school lunches. <strong>The</strong> miasma of fat and allthings nasty was definitely revolting, and theexpression on the faces of those assembledshowed that Oliver made his point. Andthen, because this is reality TV and theremust always be a sharp focus on somethingup close and personal, Oliver takes an overweightfamily to a doctor for a checkup.<strong>The</strong> verdict: <strong>The</strong> preteen son of thefamily could have diabetes. <strong>The</strong>ydraw blood. <strong>The</strong>y wait for theresults. <strong>The</strong> portly father has aone-on-one with his portly son.Oliver talks to the mother andtells her she has to change herways of feeding her family or riskkilling her son. <strong>The</strong> anxious (and yes,portly) mother dissolves into tears. Oliverpromises to help. And then, the moment oftruth: Junior doesn’t have diabetes. Not yet.<strong>The</strong> mother resolves to do better.As a person carrying around too manyel-bs, I am not going to argue with Oliver.Eating habits in this nation are horrific. Butin scaring this mother, he neglects to askthe larger questions. Why, for example, is itcheaper for this mother of a family of fourto feed her family on a diet of frozen pizzaand soft drinks than on fresh fruits and vegetables?Why is it that the American palateis geared toward the sweet, salty, and fat?How come children, especially in our poorestcommunities, believe food comes in a box?Oliver’s crusade is not new. WriterMichael Pollan began asking these veryquestions with his books on the Americandiet, <strong>The</strong> Omnivore’s Dilemma (2006) and InDefense of Food (2008).“As eaters we find ourselves increasingly inthe grip of a Nutritional Industrial Complex– comprised of well-meaning, if error-prone,scientists and food marketers only too eagerto exploit every shift in the nutritional consensus,”Pollan writes in In Defense of Food.“Together, and with some crucial help from thegovernment, they have constructed an ideologyof nutritionism that, among other things, hasconvinced us of … pernicious myths.”<strong>The</strong>re is no room to fully outline Pollan’swork here, except to say that when it comesright down to it, it’s more profitable to createprocessed, unhealthy food than food thatis good for the American people. When aperson of limited means is trying to decidebetween a bundle of fresh broccoli and abag of processed food that only requiresthe addition of a cheap cut of meat or pastato feed a whole family, what do youthink the logical choice is?It seems to me that ifOliver really wants to start atveyerevolution, he might do betterto enlighten his viewersas to how the “NutritionalIndustrial Complex” has notonly failed the American publicbut needs to be brought to task,Michael Moore-style, for its role increating the obesity epidemic we face today.I doubt this will happen on prime-time TV.This does not baffle me. What annoys me iswhere Oliver’s accusing spatula is pointed:squarely at the mother, when in reality itshould be pointed elsewhere.eWaste Drive TimeIf it’s April, it must be time for anothercitywide electronic waste drive. You canturn in old computers, cell phones, TVs,and more on Saturday, April 17, from 9amto 3pm at Lot 39 on the University of Texascampus (Red River & Dean Keeton, eastof the LBJ Library). For a list of acceptableitems, go to sec.engr.utexas.edu/index.cfm/activities/ewaste.As always, stay tuned.Follow TV Eye on Twitter: @<strong>Chronicle</strong>TVEye.E-mail Belinda Acosta at tveye@austinchronicle.com.It’sflippin’easy!the e-editionaustinchronicle.com/ea u s t i n c h r o n i c l e . c o m APRIL 9, 2010 T H E A U S T I N C H R O N I C L E 51

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