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Mexican agroindustry Nurturing the World - ProMéxico

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4 NegociosProMéxicoCarlos Guzmán BofillceoIlse Oehler GrediagaImage and Communications DirectorSebastián EscalanteManaging Coordinatorsebastian.escalante@promexico.gob.mxMiguel Ángel SamayoaAdvertising and Suscriptionsnegocios@promexico.gob.mxNatalia HerreroCopy Editing42actors InfluencingMexico’s contemporaryart sceneThe lifestyle Contents62Mexico’s marketsA Gastronomic Odyssey52 InterviewLuis adelantado55 ProfileThomas glassford58 ArtContemporary art galleriesPhoto carlos rivera Photo Archiveq-10 comunicaciónEmma Lucila López ValtierraPublisherSergio AnayaEditor in ChiefPaola ValenciaThe Lifestyle EditorCarlos MolinaDesignThis is an editorial project for ProMéxicoby Q-10 Comunicación.Download <strong>the</strong> PDF versionand read <strong>the</strong> interactive editionof Negocios ProMéxico at:negocios.promexico.gob.mxNegocios ProMéxico es una publicacióngratuita, editada mensualmenteen inglés por ProMéxico, Caminoa Santa Teresa número 1679, coloniaJardines del Pedregal, DelegaciónÁlvaro Obregón, C.P. 01900, México,D.F. Teléfono: (52) 55 54477000. Página Web:www.promexico.gob.mx. Correo electrónico:negocios@promexico.gob.mxEditor responsable: Gabriel Sebastián EscalanteBañuelos. Reserva de derechos al usoexclusivo No. 04-2009-012714564800-102.Licitud de título: 14459. Licitud de contenido:12032, ambos otorgados por la Comisión Calificadorade Publicaciones y Revistas Ilustradasde la Secretaría de Gobernación.ISSN: 2007-1795.Negocios ProMéxico año 4, número X, octubre2011, se terminó de imprimir el 10 de octubrede 2011, con un tiraje de 11,000 ejemplares. Impresapor Cía. Impresora El Universal, S.A. deC.V. Las opiniones expresadas por los autoresno reflejan necesariamente la postura deleditor de la publicación. Queda estrictamenteprohibida la reproducción total o parcial de loscontenidos e imágenes de la publicación, sinprevia autorización de ProMéxico.ProMéxico is not responsible for inaccurateinformation or omissions that might exist in<strong>the</strong> information provided by <strong>the</strong> participantcompanies nor of <strong>the</strong>ir economic solvency. Theinstitution might or might not agree with anauthor’s statements; <strong>the</strong>refore <strong>the</strong> re-sponsibilityof each text falls on <strong>the</strong> writers, not on<strong>the</strong> institution, except when it states o<strong>the</strong>rwise.Although this magazine verifies all <strong>the</strong> informationprinted on its pages, it will not acceptresponsibility derived from any omissions, inaccuraciesor mistakes. October 2011.


iefs.automotiveWarming Up<strong>the</strong> EnginesPhoto Courtesy of victaulic Photo Courtesy of nissanmetallurgical industryVictaulic’s New PlantPiping products supplier Victaulic opened a new manufacturing facilitywith metal casting capabilities in Chihuahua, Mexico.The site, one of <strong>the</strong> largest Victaulic facilities in <strong>the</strong> world, will produceductile iron castings and large diameter pipe-joining products up to 72inches. The facility follows <strong>the</strong> Victaulic Querétaro branch, increasing its capabilitiesfor customer training and enhancing regional support. In additionto its metal casting capabilities, <strong>the</strong> new 133,000 square feet facility includesmachining and assembly capabilities, as well as local operations offices.www.victaulic.comit IndustrySupporting IT DevelopmentMicrosoft Corporation has inauguratedits first technology centerbased in Latin America, in MexicoCity, where <strong>the</strong> company expectsto invest 690 million usd in 2012.The firm invested 10 million usdto build <strong>the</strong> center, supported byo<strong>the</strong>r companies including Dell,Hewlett-Packard, Samsung and Intel.The facility will be used to trainsome 2,300 software developersNissan will invest 328 million usd in its twoplants in Mexico, located in <strong>the</strong> states ofAguascalientes and Morelos.These resources will be allocated to <strong>the</strong>manufacture of new models, including <strong>the</strong>production of a multi-purpose vehicle basedin V platform, which is assembled in <strong>the</strong>Aguascalientes plant, as well as <strong>the</strong> manufactureof <strong>the</strong> Taxi of Tomorrow for New YorkCity, which will be assembled at CIVAC Plant,located in Cuernavaca, Morelos and will belaunched in 2013.With this new investment, Nissan’s portfolioin Mexico for 2009-2013 amounts to1.378 billion usd.www.nissan-global.comand is part of a worldwide networkof 25 sites.The tech center will offer localand regional organizationsan opportunity to test <strong>the</strong> company’sproducts in simulated environmentsthat replicate conditionsfaced by businesses in <strong>the</strong>irday-to-day operations.www.microsoft.comPhoto Courtesy of microsoft


10 Negociosbriefs.photos ArchiveElectronicsA Big NewcomerSharp Electronics’ plant in Rosarito, Baja California finished<strong>the</strong> assembly of an 80-inch flat screen TV for <strong>the</strong> domestic andexport markets, which will be available at various sales pointslate in October. Sharp’s Rosarito plant, specialized in manufacturing40 to 80 inch LCDs, was inaugurated in October 2007with an approximate investment of 102 million usd. It has amonthly production capacity of 200,000 units and will supply<strong>the</strong> new screen to <strong>the</strong> Americas.www.sharp-world.comRenewable energyShiny Business PlanBaja Sun Energy –a joint venturebetween <strong>Mexican</strong> developmentfirm Grupo Maíz, Taiwanesecompany Arima EcoEnergyand Silicon Border, a scienceand technology park near Mexicali–will invest more than 500million usd in a solar-panel factoryand energy farm in BajaCalifornia that will sell power onboth sides of <strong>the</strong> Mexico-US border.The Mexicali-based companywill start building its facility in 2011and plans to make 100-megawatta year capacity panels, as well asa 10-megawatt solar facility thatwill expand to 150 megawatts.www.arimaeco.comwww.siliconborder.comRetail commerceIncreasingPresenceUS based do-it-yourself (DIY) retailer TheHome Depot will invest 260 million usd in Mexicoby <strong>the</strong> end of 2012, to support <strong>the</strong> openingof 13 new stores in <strong>the</strong> country to reach a total100 locations.corporate.homedepot.com


Mexico’s Partner interceramicIn <strong>the</strong> last three decades, Interceramic hasopened 240 stores across <strong>the</strong> country and willhave no less than 300 points of sale in Mexico by2014 if its expansion plans go smoothly.“We have entered China with a franchise system.These are very demanding markets and weare competing with manufacturers not just fromChina, but from countries like Italy, Turkey andSpain, to name just a few. International coverageis vital to us, which is why we pay special attentionto innovation. We have a team of professionalswho travel to conventions, expos and designfairs all over <strong>the</strong> world to make sure we are upto speed with all <strong>the</strong> latest developments,” saysAlmeida, adding that <strong>the</strong> design, strength anddurability of many of Interceramic’s productshave been recognized by international experts.“We try to keep abreast of global trends, whileproducing exclusive designs at our research anddevelopment center, which has enabled us tolaunch world-class products,” he says.Interceramic exports approximately 25%of its total annual output –between 42 and 44million square meters– to countries like <strong>the</strong> US,Canada and China, virtually all of Latin Americaand some European regions.Seven years ago, <strong>the</strong> company opened a smalloffice in China. It has since entered partnershipswith local firms and in 2010 launched a marketingplan that has yielded sales of some sixmillion square meters of product on <strong>the</strong> Chinesemarket.In late 2010, Interceramic opened its firstshowroom in Foshan, China, to launch ICCFashionable Ceramic, a product line spawnedfrom a joint venture between Interceramic andGuangdong Kito Ceramics.In addition to this 1,300-square-meter exhibitionspace, <strong>the</strong> company aims to set up 150points of sale in China in <strong>the</strong> short term. It alsoexpects to consolidate its sales in <strong>the</strong> US viaLowe’s –<strong>the</strong> country’s second-most-importanthome improvement store that has close to 1,750branches. Also, Interceramic is entering <strong>the</strong>stone, marble and granite niche to maintainleadership of <strong>the</strong> tile market, which brings inannual sales of 500 million usd for <strong>the</strong> company.Innovation will indubitably play a key rolein <strong>the</strong> company’s future. “Interceramic is agreen, environmentally and socially awarecompany that believes in innovation, qualityand service. We plan to uphold our standardsand continue innovating on all fronts,” says VíctorAlmeida. nwww.interceramic.com


14 Negociosphoto ArchiveEducation:A Pathway toProsperityMexico, like many countries, is undergoing a deep transformation in which educationand training have become essential for companies that wish to remain competitive.By Jorge Pérez Rubio Aguilar*


Guest Opinion Education: a pathway to prosperityWe have inherited a fastmovingworld in whichevents, good or bad, havetaken many of us by surprise.As mankind sailsthrough <strong>the</strong> second decade of <strong>the</strong> 21st century, itfaces far greater challenges than ever before. Debtburdens, geo-political conflicts, climate changeand population movements that are consideredto be even more far-reaching in <strong>the</strong>ir effects than<strong>the</strong> wars and revolutions of <strong>the</strong> 20th century.For this reason, education has never beenmore important nor its influence more upliftingthan it is now. Higher education is no longer exclusiveof a rich and powerful minority. Today, itis crucial for each individual to bring his or hertrue talent to bear <strong>the</strong> task of improving <strong>the</strong> lotof mankind.Through my experience working for largemultinational companies I have learned thatevery so often <strong>the</strong>re will be financial crisis sofar-reaching that <strong>the</strong>y will impact <strong>the</strong> economicwell being of <strong>the</strong> world. Most of <strong>the</strong>m will becaused by <strong>the</strong> excessive desire to make moneyfast. While <strong>the</strong> financial crisis of 2008 might havebeen <strong>the</strong> biggest recession I witnessed in my lifetime,worse things may happen if we don’t do twosimple things: train managers to anticipate andhandle risks before <strong>the</strong>y occur, handling informationin an efficient and ethical way; and eliminateexcessive compensation based on short-termperformance, which tends to bring out <strong>the</strong> worstin human behavior. The implications for managementeducation are that continued efforts need tofocus on ethics and governance education, greatlyenhanced risk management curricula, assessmenttechniques, and <strong>the</strong> establishment of goalsdesigned to produce individuals with skills andpreferences aimed at achieving sustained organizationalperformance. Through education we canestablish <strong>the</strong> conditions for a virtuous cycle thatensures both <strong>the</strong> success of private enterpriseand <strong>the</strong> global wellbeing.Today’s society has been shaped by culturalchanges generated by scientific and technologicalprogress during <strong>the</strong> last quarter of <strong>the</strong> century,which has transformed lifestyles, <strong>the</strong> worldeconomy and <strong>the</strong> nature of work. These changesalso reached <strong>the</strong> educational community, whichis why academic institutions are generating responsesto meet <strong>the</strong>se new needs.Mexico, like many o<strong>the</strong>r countries, is undergoinga deep transformation. Globalization andtechnological change represent key challengesfor companies that wish to remain competitive.Therefore, continuous education and training becomeessential.Education leaders should strive to make <strong>the</strong>United Nations Educational, Scientific and CulturalOrganization’s (UNESCO) proposition cometrue, in <strong>the</strong> sense that in <strong>the</strong> near future, “obtusenationalisms will give way to universalism, tolerance,understanding and pluralism and willensure that, in a divided world, we will pass to atechnologically-united world.”UNESCO has recently published a list of challengesthat <strong>the</strong> universities of <strong>the</strong> future will facein order to establish a clear connection to balancedprosperity. There is a need to bridge <strong>the</strong>gap on <strong>the</strong> field of science and technology, educationthat currently separates <strong>the</strong> developed from<strong>the</strong> developing economies. Education also needsto transform people into citizens of <strong>the</strong> world,while at <strong>the</strong> same time ensuring that <strong>the</strong>y activelyparticipate in <strong>the</strong>ir communities, particularly indeveloping countries.UNESCO has clearly stated that: “Educationhas to adapt its structures and teaching methodsto new needs. The actual paradigm has to changefrom one centered in teaching and knowledgetransmission to one centered on learning and <strong>the</strong>development of competencies than may be transferredto different contexts of time and space.”Only <strong>the</strong>n can we begin to talk about moving in<strong>the</strong> right direction: towards prosperity.Without a doubt, education is <strong>the</strong> key toMexico’s future prosperity. Despite <strong>the</strong> economicsituation, it is important not to lose focus on <strong>the</strong>importance of education and to keep on addressingsome of <strong>the</strong> challenges that have long plagued<strong>the</strong> nation’s educational system.Mexico can succeed on its road to prosperity,but success will depend upon continued reformsand <strong>the</strong>ir thorough implementation. This iswhere <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong> government should set forthan ambitious agenda for change, in line with <strong>the</strong>best practices across countries belonging to <strong>the</strong>Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development(OECD).Mexico needs to look beyond its short-termchallenges and start preparing for a brighterfuture. The country is at a crossroads, but it cansucceed, provided that it undertakes and implements<strong>the</strong> right reforms. The reform of educationis crucial in this endeavor and offers a clear pathwayto prosperity. n*Chairman of <strong>the</strong> Committee for Social Responsibilityand Education at <strong>the</strong> American ChamberMexico.


16 NegociosPhotos ArchiveOrganicAgriculturein MexicoOrganic agriculture is rapidly gaining importance as an economic activityin several countries. In Mexico organic food and fibers are geared mainlytowards <strong>the</strong> export market. Such products make up 10% of <strong>the</strong> country’stotal agricultural exports and <strong>the</strong> market value of Mexico’s organic exports isexpected to increase from 700 million usd in 2010 to 800 million usd by <strong>the</strong>end of 2011.by marÍa cristina rosas


Business TipsThe Food and Agriculture Organization(FAO) of <strong>the</strong> UnitedNations defines organic agricultureas a holistic system ofproduction management thatpromotes and improves <strong>the</strong> healthof <strong>the</strong> agro-ecosystem, particularlybiodiversity, biological cycles and soilbiological activity. Such a system takesinto account environmental and socialrepercussions, and shuns <strong>the</strong> use ofsyn<strong>the</strong>tic fertilizers and pesticides, veterinarymedications, genetically modifiedseeds and species, preservatives,additives and radiation.Organic agriculture presently accountsfor a relatively small proportion of economicactivity, but is rapidly gaining importance incertain countries, regardless of <strong>the</strong>ir level ofdevelopment –which is good news for <strong>the</strong> environmentat a time when <strong>the</strong> world’s soils aredegrading at an unprecedented rate. Demandfor organic products is on <strong>the</strong> rise, paving <strong>the</strong>way for a more environmentally friendly marketplace.A trend is already discernable. Several EuropeanUnion (EU) countries currently grantAlthough Mexico lags in 22nd placeworldwide in terms of hectares oforganic crops, it has more organicfarms than any o<strong>the</strong>r country –83,174compared to Italy’s 44,733, and wellabove Uganda’s 40,000.subsidies to organic farmers to reduce pollutionof aquifers and protect biodiversity. InAustria and Switzerland, for example, organicagriculture accounts for 10% and 7.8% of <strong>the</strong>food system, respectively, while <strong>the</strong> US, France,Japan and Singapore are registering annualgrowth rates as high as 20%. Egypt is one of ahandful of developing nations with small domesticmarkets for organic products; o<strong>the</strong>rshave begun latching on to export opportunities,including Mexico, which exports organiccoffee, and Uganda, whose organic cotton is apopular export product.Organic food and fiber demandhas opened up a whole new world ofopportunities for farmers and businessesengaged in related activities.And if global growth rates are anythingto go by, <strong>the</strong> balance should betipping toward organic agriculture as2020 approaches.The private sector has been creatingconcepts and markets for organic productsfor years with some success, but <strong>the</strong>recent increase in consumer demand hascaused <strong>the</strong> public sector to sit up and takenotice.The market for certified organic productsis dominated by developed nations. That said,


18 NegociosPhotos Archivedeveloping countries are becoming seedbedsfor investment opportunities. Australiahas <strong>the</strong> most hectares dedicated to certifiedorganic crops (12 million), followed byArgentina (2.8 million) and Brazil(1.8 million). In terms of land dedicatedto organic as opposed to conventionalagriculture, Oceania leads<strong>the</strong> way (37.6%) and Europe comessecond (24.1%), with Latin Americacoming in a close third (23%). And interms of land under certified organicmanagement as a proportion of landdedicated to agriculture, Austria andSwitzerland head <strong>the</strong> list with 13.4%and 11%, respectively.In 2007, <strong>the</strong> global market for organicproducts was valued at 46 billion usd, but by2008 this figure had surpassed 50 billion usd.Today, <strong>the</strong> vast majority of organic productsproduced worldwide are consumed by NorthAmerica and Europe.According to figures for 2010, <strong>the</strong> marketfor organic products registered an annualgrowth rate of 10.4%. It is estimated that some35 million hectares were dedicated to organicThere are two main advantages Mexicoenjoys on this increasingly contestedmarket: <strong>the</strong> capacity to produce laborintensivecrops like sesame seeds and <strong>the</strong>wea<strong>the</strong>r conditions to supply productsall year round that are scarceelsewhere during certain seasons.agriculture in 154 countries across <strong>the</strong> world,while <strong>the</strong> number of certified farmers wasapproximately 1.4 million.Latin America currently weighs in withonly 5% of <strong>the</strong> value of <strong>the</strong> international market,yet almost one fourth of <strong>the</strong> world’s organiccroplands are located here, putting <strong>the</strong>region at a competitive advantage in a marketniche that looks set to acquire increasing globalimportance in years to come.In <strong>the</strong> specific case of Mexico, organicagriculture is geared mainly towardsexport markets. For example, Germanyand Asia purchase most of <strong>the</strong>irorganic coffee from Mexico, whichexports more organic products toEurope than any o<strong>the</strong>r Latin Americannation. Such products make up10% of <strong>the</strong> country’s total agriculturalexports and <strong>the</strong> market value of Mexico’sorganic exports is expected to increasefrom 700 million usd in 2010 to800 million usd by <strong>the</strong> end of 2011.Organic products produced in Mexicoare certified by CERTIMEX and o<strong>the</strong>r internationalagencies with offices in <strong>the</strong> country,like <strong>the</strong> Organic Crop Improvement Association(OCIA), Bioagricert, Imo and Naturland,but come 2012 Mexico will be introducing its


Mexico’s partner Business enersave Tipsown internationally recognized certificationprocess.And although Mexico lags in 22nd placeworldwide in terms of hectares of organiccrops, it has more organic farms thanany o<strong>the</strong>r country –83,174 comparedto Italy’s 44,733, and well above Uganda’s40,000. Chiapas, Oaxaca andMichoacán are <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong> stateswith <strong>the</strong> most hectares dedicated toorganic crops, which often accountfor a substantial proportion of landdedicated to that particular product.Cases in point include vanilla (14.5%);coffee (10.4%); papaya (8.7%); sesameseeds (7.1%); palm oil (4.5%); walnuts (2.4%);pineapple (2.4%) and mango (1.4%).Of <strong>the</strong> 40-plus organic products Mexicooffers, coffee is without a doubt <strong>the</strong> most important,accounting for 69% of land dedicatedto organic crops, followed by corn (4.5%) andsesame seeds (4%). O<strong>the</strong>r organic crops includetomatoes, chili peppers, pumpkin, cucumber,garlic, onion, eggplant, melon, mango,oranges, apples, papaya, bananas, pineapple,lime, coconut, peach, avocado, agave (for itsIn 2007, <strong>the</strong> global market for organicproducts was valued at 46 billion usd,but by 2008 this figure had surpassed50 billion usd. According to figures for2010, <strong>the</strong> market for organic productsregistered an annual growth rate of10.4%.nectar), basil, mint, ginger, beans, soya beans,cocoa, palm oil, vanilla, peanuts, walnuts,chickpeas and safflower, as well as honey,milk, cream, cheese, candies and cosmetics,albeit in smaller quantities.In short, Mexico enjoys two main advantageson this increasingly contested market:<strong>the</strong> ability to produce labor-intensive cropslike sesame seeds and <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r conditionsto supply products that are scarce elsewhereduring certain seasons all year round. In thiscontext, <strong>the</strong> way forward for organicagriculture in Mexico would seem torely in tropical products like coffee,mango, banana, avocado, cacao, hibiscus,citrus fruits, papaya, coconut andexotic fruits.And when it comes to organicfarming methods, Mexico has experienceand know-how, with some products,such as avocado pulp powderand dried fruit, boasting home-growntechnology. Organic agriculture makes sensesocially and environmentally, but for Mexicoit has major economic implications. n*Professor and researcher in <strong>the</strong> Political and SocialSciences Faculty, National Autonomous Universityof Mexico (UNAM).


22 Negocios infographic oldemarMexico <strong>Nurturing</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>World</strong>Production rates of main <strong>Mexican</strong> exported crops in 2010Cultivated Surface(hectares)Production(tons)13,239134,32278,130Asparagus74,659Avocado1’107,135Banana2’103,36116,391781,01516,518BerriesBlueberry, strawberry,raspberry and blackberry303,618Coffee cherryThe ripened fruitsof <strong>the</strong> coffee shrubs1’332,263Cucumber477,3664,91322,57627,68347,429305,227307,146GarlicGuavaGrapesMain agricultural exportsMillion USD, from January to July 20111,430.9Tomato528.7Avocado405.0Coffee (raw grain)296.5Melon,watermelonand papaya216.4Garlicand onionAvocadoBerriesLemonExportsby productand countryMillion USD,from Januaryto July 2011US 469.67Japan 70.60Canada 40.27Costa Rica 9.92Honduras 1.89Hong Kong 0.96Guatemala 0.64The Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands 0.42US 237.30Canada 3.52Japan 0.35Brazil 0.34US 98.36Canada 21.50Japan 8.79The Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands 2.62Spain 1.08France 1.02Germany 0.25Switzerland 0.20


Cover feature <strong>Mexican</strong> <strong>agroindustry</strong>18,520153,425 183,108Grapefruit400,933Lemon1’891,403Mango1’632,64945,126339,38916,2271’266,1644’051,631616,215OnionOrangePapaya31,871 54,51047,338701,7402’277,7911’036,794PineappleTomatoWatermelon160.6Cucumber152.9Citrus fruits142.9Mango140.4Grapes114.5Strawberry (fresh)42.1BananaMangoMelonBananaGrapefruitUS 98.36Canada 21.50Japan 8.79The Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands 2.62US 1.00Spain 1.08 US 15.89 US 4.32 France 0.36France 1.02 Japan 11.13 Spain 0.21 Russia 0.24Germany 0.25 Hong Kong 0.60 Japan 0.13 UK 0.10Source: Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock, Rural Development, Fisheries and Food - Servicio de Información Agroalimentaria y Pesquera (SIAP).


24 Negocios photos ARCHIVEHoneyGlazing <strong>the</strong><strong>World</strong>Sociedad Apícola Maya has turned honey into a sweetbusiness with stringent quality and food safety controls.Eons ago, a rich diversity of nectarproducing plants blossomedfrom <strong>the</strong> fertile soils of <strong>the</strong> YucatánPeninsula. Then along came<strong>the</strong> bees and <strong>the</strong>y did <strong>the</strong> rest. In1976, a group of honey producers got toge<strong>the</strong>rso <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> world could enjoy <strong>the</strong> delicioushoney produced in Yucatán. SociedadApícola Maya, as <strong>the</strong>se producers call <strong>the</strong>mselves,is a leading <strong>Mexican</strong> honey exporter,not only in terms of sales but also because of itscooperative-like structure that allows beekeepersto take home all <strong>the</strong> profits.Every year, Sociedad Apícola Maya producessome two thousand tons of honey, which ishighly sought after in Europe, North Americaand Arabia, says Miguel Lara Sosa, who is nowpresident of <strong>the</strong> organization founded by hisfa<strong>the</strong>r, Abdón Lara Burgos. The cooperative’smembers, he says, have had <strong>the</strong> wherewithalto modernize <strong>the</strong>ir production techniques,


Mexico’s Partner sociedad apícola mayaEvery year, Sociedad Apícola Maya produces some twothousand tons of honey, which is highly sought after inEurope, North America and Arabia.togonon leptopus), which grows exclusivelyin <strong>the</strong> forests of Yucatán. The Toothleaf Goldeneye(Viguiera dentate), known as tajonal inMaya, accounts for <strong>the</strong> best part of <strong>the</strong> secondharvest at <strong>the</strong> height of Mexico’s winter season,and <strong>the</strong> third, in April and May, comesfrom <strong>the</strong> Gymnopodium floribundum, ashrub known locally as ts’its’ilche. The fourthharvest, in May and July, comes from <strong>the</strong>flowers of larger trees like <strong>the</strong> Gumbo-limbo(Bursera simaruba) or chakaj, <strong>the</strong> Acacia gaumerior box katsim and <strong>the</strong> False Tamarin (Lysilomalatisiluquum) or tsalam.Judging from <strong>the</strong> autochthonous namesof <strong>the</strong>se and o<strong>the</strong>r nectar producing plantsthat play such a vital role in <strong>the</strong> production ofhoney in this <strong>Mexican</strong> region, <strong>the</strong> Mayas weregraduate production to meet demand andcomply with international quality and foodsafety standards.In 2009, <strong>the</strong> producers built a small buthighly efficient bottling plant, which meetsfood export requirements set forth by <strong>the</strong> EU,where <strong>the</strong> vast majority of <strong>the</strong>ir customers arelocated. Almost immediately, <strong>the</strong> facility wascertified by <strong>the</strong> National Food Health, Safetyand Quality Service (SENASICA), which reportsto Mexico’s Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock,Rural Development, Fisheries and Food(SAGARPA, according to its Spanish acronym).This is <strong>the</strong> beekeepers’ contribution; <strong>the</strong>rest of <strong>the</strong> work is done by <strong>the</strong>ir 100,000-oddbee colonies.Today, nine out of every 10 kilos of honeyproduced by Sociedad Apícola Maya areshipped to Germany, where <strong>the</strong> cooperativehas three major buyers. Germany has beenits most loyal customer since 1976, althougha small percentage of production manages tomake its way to <strong>the</strong> UK, <strong>the</strong> US and, more recently,Spain, in 300-kilo drums.Why do <strong>the</strong>se countries prefer <strong>the</strong> honeyfrom Yucatán to honey produced in o<strong>the</strong>rparts of <strong>the</strong> world? “Because it’s <strong>the</strong> tastiest,”replies Miguel Lara without a moment’s hesitation.In apiculture terms, “tasty” means anamber colored, aromatic honey with a goodconsistency.In that respect, Miguel Lara Sosa and histwo thousand beekeeping colleagues are luckyto have been born in Yucatán, a land rich innectar and pollen producing plants, some 40endemic species in all, from vines to largertrees, according to certain biodiversity inventories.Thanks to this wonderful diversity of flora,Sociedad Apícola Maya is able to harvesthoney four times a year. The first harvest is at<strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> year, obtained from <strong>the</strong> nectarof climbing plants like <strong>the</strong> Coral Vine (Anindubitably<strong>the</strong> first to discover <strong>the</strong>ir potential.“Our honey has what it takes to satisfy <strong>the</strong>most discerning of palates and we do what wecan to position it on <strong>the</strong> most demanding ofmarkets,” says Lara Sosa.Honey is <strong>the</strong> main line of business of SociedadApícola Maya, although <strong>the</strong> cooperativealso produces and sells derived products likebeeswax, pollen, royal jelly, soaps and shampoosand candies enriched with propolis extract.Packed with vitamins, minerals and enzymes,honey has a myriad of applications,from soothing sore throats to chaffed skin. For<strong>the</strong> last 30 years, Sociedad Apícola Maya hasbeen supplying world markets with a productof <strong>the</strong> finest quality. Whe<strong>the</strong>r you want to eat itor wallow in it is up to you.. n


26 Negocios photos COURTESY OF PRODUCTOS CHATAProductos ChataThe Tasteof SinaloaTraditional food from Nor<strong>the</strong>rn Mexico has enamored global palates, thanksto Productos Chata, a company with some 50 years in <strong>the</strong> market and annualsales in <strong>the</strong> region of 50 million usd.by antonio vázquez


Mexico’S PARTNER productos chataAround 10% of Productos Chata’s total productiongoes to international markets. What do <strong>the</strong>y export?Pork chilorio, turkey chilorio, pibil pork, fried beanSwith chilorio, beans with cheese and chorizo, pozole-a soup containing maize and pork- and menudo -aspicy dish made with beef.Chilorio -a pork dish seasonedwith chili and spices-, chorizo,beans, tamale, chicharrón (porkscrapings), <strong>the</strong> extensive list ofproducts from Productos Chatais present in households around <strong>the</strong> world.The company started out with 10 people,and now employs over one thousand 500 staffthat work hard to make sure <strong>the</strong> original tasteof 49 years ago remains.“Quality in preparation and taste of ProductosChata is due largely to <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>owners of <strong>the</strong> company personally taste <strong>the</strong>irproducts. That is how it was in <strong>the</strong> past and itis so now,” explains Jorge Aguilar, company exportsdirector.Founded in Culiacán, in <strong>the</strong> state of Sinaloa-in <strong>the</strong> north west of Mexico-, <strong>the</strong> company createdby <strong>the</strong> Machado Piña family began operatingin 1962, conceived as a vehicle to produceand market traditional food products from <strong>the</strong>region. Chorizo, bulk chilorio, machaca, chicharrónand tamale, were <strong>the</strong> first products that <strong>the</strong>family sold at <strong>the</strong>ir small shop in Culiacán.By 1974, <strong>the</strong> company grew and boughta plant to can its star product, chilorio: a dishmade with shredded pork seasoned with pasilla,garlic, oregano and salt.Back in <strong>the</strong> 80s, <strong>the</strong> company entered <strong>the</strong>cold meat and sausages market. Now <strong>the</strong> mainsupermarket chains, including Walmart, are itsclients. Productos Chata arrived in <strong>the</strong> US marketin 1995.“We started with <strong>the</strong> state market, <strong>the</strong>n ourneighboring states, followed by Guadalajara.We headed North, towards Tijuana. Todaywe are present throughout Mexico and <strong>the</strong>US. We also have operations in Japan, Guatemala,Canada, Europe and we keep lookingat new markets” says Jorge Aguilar.“Asians love pork, so our products are inhigh demand <strong>the</strong>re. There is no difference intaste between <strong>the</strong> products we sell in Mexicoand those we export; changes are only as aresult of individual country regulations. In <strong>the</strong>case of Japan, for example, all we have done isadapt our products to <strong>the</strong>ir regulations. Thatmeans that <strong>the</strong> products we sell in that marketcontain iodine free salt,” Aguilar explains.Around 10% of Productos Chata’s totalproduction goes to international markets.What do <strong>the</strong>y export? Pork chilorio, turkeychilorio, pibil pork, fried beans with chilorio,beans with cheese and chorizo, pozole -asoup containing maize and pork- and menudo-a spicy dish made with beef.Only memories remain from <strong>the</strong> oldsmall shop where <strong>the</strong> family began selling<strong>the</strong>ir products. The company now owns aplant for canned products, ano<strong>the</strong>r one toproduce <strong>Mexican</strong> food, a third one for coldmeat and one for cheese production.Quality and taste are <strong>the</strong> two ruling driversfor Productos Chata. The company iscommitted to its consumers and its commitmentgoes beyond hygiene standards. ProductosChata follows thorough preparationprocesses for each food product, so that <strong>the</strong>yare made as devotedly as if <strong>the</strong>y had beenmade at home.“Chilorio is, without a doubt, <strong>the</strong> mostsought after product because people know it ispure meat and that <strong>the</strong>re is no way <strong>the</strong> producthas been diluted or thinned. Comments fromaround <strong>the</strong> world are that people choose chiloriofor its taste, which is very <strong>Mexican</strong>. We addno preservatives, although it is canned. Peoplejust love Chata chilorio,” brags Aguilar.The exports director of Productos Chatasays that every country that <strong>the</strong> company hasexported to has recognized <strong>the</strong> high qualityof <strong>the</strong>ir products. “We enforce very stringentquality controls. For example, we produce <strong>the</strong>lard used in <strong>the</strong> preparation of our products.That means we do not need to find outside suppliersand thus we can have full quality controlover our products,” he explains.Quality, integrity, efficiency, innovation andteamwork are <strong>the</strong> core values on which <strong>the</strong> companyhas operated for almost half a century. Withannual sales of 50 million usd, specialized magazineExpansión ranked Productos Chata amongst<strong>the</strong> top 500 <strong>Mexican</strong> companies in 2009.“We are focused on creating new productswith state-of-<strong>the</strong>-art technology and processesin order to avoid adding preservatives. Someof <strong>the</strong> reasons why our products are so wellreceived in <strong>the</strong> EU and Asian markets include<strong>the</strong>ir individual features and high qualitypackaging and presentations,” adds JorgeAguilar. In this way, Productos Chata holds apromise to offer a taste of Mexico to more andmore places in <strong>the</strong> world. nwww.chata.com.mx


28 Negocios photo Courtesy of amecafeMagicalScentsHere, in this land, under <strong>the</strong> shade, <strong>the</strong>re are fruit trees, native fauna and a legendary grain. This isMexico, <strong>the</strong> seventh largest coffee producer in <strong>the</strong> world, with an annual production of 4.5 millionsacks, 60% of which are exported.by gustavo aréchiga


product <strong>Mexican</strong> coffeeThis story starts in 1140 in Ethiopia.Legend has it that a shepherdnoticed an unknown bushamong <strong>the</strong> common vegetationand was intrigued when hisgoats ate <strong>the</strong> bitter fruit from it and beganto behave strangely. Amazed, he prepared abeverage and offered it to <strong>the</strong> chief of his tribe.The chief threw it into <strong>the</strong> bonfire and <strong>the</strong>ambience was filled with a sublime scent, <strong>the</strong>scent of coffee.<strong>Mexican</strong>s have been sharing this storysince 1740, when <strong>the</strong> grain arrived inVeracruz, on <strong>the</strong> Gulf of Mexico, from Cuba.Soon after arrival, coffee started gainingground, even above cocoa, <strong>the</strong> origin ofchocolate. Rainforest regions of Oaxaca,Chiapas and Guerrero, rich in water andshade, quickly opened <strong>the</strong> way for <strong>the</strong> grain.And in <strong>the</strong> 21st century, Mexico is one of <strong>the</strong>seven top producers in <strong>the</strong> world.According to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong> Association ofCoffee Production (AMECAFE, accordingto its Spanish acronym), coffee was <strong>the</strong>main agricultural product attracting foreigncurrency for a number of years, with a GDPcontribution of 1.3%.Seasonal cycles enable Mexico to supply<strong>the</strong> domestic and international markets with4.5 million sacks of coffee (around 60 poundseach) per year, according to Sylvia Gutiérrez,responsible for promotion at AMECAFE. Thisboost is <strong>the</strong> result of an increase in world prices,which, in turn, builds trust amongst growersto re-invest <strong>the</strong>ir earnings and thus increaseproduction.<strong>Mexican</strong> coffee has successfully moved up <strong>the</strong>gourmet taste of consumers. The grain’s Plumavariety has <strong>the</strong> widest international recognition.When served in a cup, its penetrating andelegant fruity aroma is considered to be one of<strong>the</strong> best in <strong>the</strong> world, close to o<strong>the</strong>r brands likeBlue Mountain, Kona and Geisha.Pluma is <strong>the</strong> crown jewel of aroma, grownin a surface of some 50,000 hectares along<strong>the</strong> river Copailta, in a group of municipalitieslocated 80 miles south of <strong>the</strong> city of Oaxaca, on<strong>the</strong> way to Puerto Escondido. But it is not <strong>the</strong>only example of a <strong>Mexican</strong> grown grain.“Coffee has evolved in recent years froma commodity to a differentiated product. Assuch, people pay more attention to <strong>the</strong> quality,taste and aroma of coffee grains. So, this isnow seen as a gourmet product. The coffeeboom in Mexico resulted from <strong>the</strong> demand offoreign cafeterias and convenience stores. Andit is customers who have triggered <strong>the</strong> searchfor taste, quality and expression in a cup,”Gutiérrez explains.GREEN CAFFEINESeven percent of <strong>the</strong> total production of coffeein Mexico is certified as organic and is grownin 71 hectares in various coffee producingregions of <strong>the</strong> country. Its production involvesmany different grain details as compared toconventional coffee grains. Patience, time andrespect for <strong>the</strong> natural environment are <strong>the</strong> threemain characteristics of ecological production.34,400 growers, who work with devotion,dedication and a comprehensive knowledgeof <strong>the</strong> soil, produce and offer this liquid gift to<strong>the</strong> world.“<strong>Mexican</strong> organic coffee is perceived as atrusted, innocuous product. There are nodamages to growers, nei<strong>the</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> land noron <strong>the</strong> consumer. It is not harmful for <strong>the</strong>environment. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, in <strong>the</strong> case ofMexico, this product represents small growersand <strong>the</strong>ir communities, which promotes abetter quality of life for all,” he stated.Gutiérrez went on to explain: “Manypeople thought growing coffee with organicpractices would result in coffee losing taste,color and quality when served. But thatmyth is now long gone and Mexico hasbecome one of <strong>the</strong> main exporters of organiccoffee, certified both for quality and reliableproduction processes, complying with <strong>the</strong>highest international standards. As pioneers,we have also become famous. An exampleis Finca Irlanda, in Chiapas, which was <strong>the</strong>first producer to get <strong>the</strong> Demeter Bundcertification from Germany.”Currently, Mexico’s main markets fororganic coffee are <strong>the</strong> US –receiving 55% oftotal exports– Italy, Spain, Belgium, Canada,France and Japan. According to AMECAFEfigures, <strong>the</strong>se countries buy some 136,000-150,000 sacks of coffee per year.“The diverse profiles, <strong>the</strong> backing of seriousorganizations, reliable certifications in Mexicoand a firm commitment to environmentalprotection, as well as <strong>the</strong> creation of a socialchain for small growers, are distinctive factorsof <strong>Mexican</strong> organic coffee. This is attractive forforeign investors, as <strong>the</strong>y can witness all <strong>the</strong>stages of <strong>the</strong> productive chain,” he continued.Today, Mexico offers <strong>the</strong> world organic coffeewith a delicious aroma, where people enjoyrespect for <strong>the</strong> land and fair treatment of growers.Unlike coffee produced in o<strong>the</strong>r countries, <strong>the</strong>sebeans are taken care of to <strong>the</strong> finest detail andare grown under ideal agricultural and climateconditions, with a slow maturity process under<strong>the</strong> shade. All this results in an unusual blend ofcaffeine and nutrients, color concentration andrange of flavors.IN TOUCH WITH THE EARTHFor <strong>the</strong> last 22 years, <strong>the</strong> Association ofIndigenous Communities from <strong>the</strong> IsthmusRegion (UCIRI, according to its Spanishacronym) in Oaxaca has brought toge<strong>the</strong>rcoffee growers from various communitiesfrom <strong>the</strong> lowlands of Sierra Juárez –from20 municipalities and various ethnic groups,including <strong>the</strong> zapoteco, mixe, mixteco, chontaland chatino from <strong>the</strong> coast.UCIRI gives a very simple explanation of <strong>the</strong>work carried out at coffee plantations in <strong>the</strong>region: “The suffering of <strong>the</strong> earth will resultin pain for its children; its joy and wellbeingwill reflect in a decent life for <strong>the</strong> people. Theearth does not belong to man, man belongs to<strong>the</strong> earth.” Operating under <strong>the</strong>se principles,<strong>the</strong> work of <strong>the</strong> organization has been fruitful.Naturland certified UCIRI in 1988, as didIMO-CONTROL from Switzerland, <strong>the</strong> officialEU certification, in 1993. Since <strong>the</strong>n, growersmust meet certain responsibilities and <strong>the</strong>commitment that agricultural practicesguarantee that coffee is organic as well askeep close control with <strong>the</strong> support of annualinspection visits by certifying bodies.Thanks to <strong>the</strong>se certifications, UCIRIhas been able to launch new products, gettraining, differentiate services and providesupport to communities, especially women, toimplement health programs and have creditintermediaries. Who could have known thatall this would happen because of an organicproduction initiative? n


30 Negocios photo archiveALighthousein <strong>the</strong>PacificHaving started as a small coffee shop on <strong>the</strong> Pacific coast of Mexico during <strong>the</strong> lastcentury, it is now one of <strong>the</strong> country’s main coffee exporters. Industrias Marinoexports around 130,000 sacks of coffee per year from <strong>the</strong> port of Mazatlán, in Sinaloa.by antonio vázquez


Mexico’s Partner industrias marinoThat business of <strong>the</strong> Lizárragafamily, which started with 10people, now employs 850 staffin its plants in Mazatlán andGuadalajara. Café El Marinohas been in <strong>the</strong> US market since1966 and now it holds an FDAapproval.Imagine this scene from 1950. Sailorsfrom ships arriving at Mazatlán –acommercial port on <strong>the</strong> Pacific coast ofMexico in <strong>the</strong> state of Sinaloa— used toga<strong>the</strong>r around local shops and parlorsto search for a cup of hot coffee. Finding coffeein <strong>the</strong> north west of Mexico was not easy, particularlyin coastal cities. Therefore, RicardoLizárraga spotted a market niche: selling coffeeto those who would not be on land for sometime – and, thus, Café El Marino came to life.Lizárraga bought <strong>the</strong> grain from Sou<strong>the</strong>rnMexico coffee growers and sold it in Mazatlánunder his brand, Marino. He started in <strong>the</strong> Northwestbut, later on, he grew along <strong>the</strong> Pacific coastand <strong>the</strong> brand soon covered more regions around<strong>the</strong> country. In 1966, <strong>the</strong> company started exportingboth green and roasted coffee to <strong>the</strong> US andCanada. One year later it opened its first processingplant in Guadalajara, in <strong>the</strong> state of Jalisco,and became one of <strong>the</strong> first <strong>Mexican</strong> companiesto export ground coffee throughout <strong>the</strong> world.Café El Marino is produced in Chiapas, Veracruz,Oaxaca and Nayarit, Mexico’s leading states incoffee production.“The name of <strong>the</strong> brand resulted from <strong>the</strong>fact that <strong>the</strong> economy of Mazatlán revolvesaround fisheries and my fa<strong>the</strong>r’s customerswere sailors from those fishing boats. In 2004Industrias Marino divided <strong>the</strong> industrial andcommercial divisions of business, in order toestablish alliances with American companies.Ever since <strong>the</strong>n, we operate Industrias Marino,which is a part of Grupo Marino,” says ArturoLizárraga, general director of Industrias Marino.The business of <strong>the</strong> Lizárraga family, whichstarted with 10 people, now employs 850 staff inits plants in Mazatlán and Guadalajara.Café El Marino has been in <strong>the</strong> US marketsince 1966 and now it holds an FDA approval.Besides <strong>the</strong> US, Industrias Marino’s productsare sold in countries like Canada, PuertoRico, Korea, Panama, Nicaragua, Japan, Iceland,New Zealand, Germany, Macedonia, Poland,The Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands, Taiwan, Russia, Chinaand El Salvador.“Mazatlán has become a strategic locationfor us, because it provides access to naturalmarkets and we have <strong>the</strong> ability to respondpromptly,” says Arturo Lizárraga. He also explainsthat 60% of Café El Marino’s annual productionis sold abroad. The company exportssome 130,000 sacks of coffee per year and in2010 it received <strong>the</strong> National Exports Award–<strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong> Business Council for ForeignTrade’s (COMCE, according to its Spanish acronym)annual award.“We produce all sorts of coffee presentations:roasted, ground, soluble, as well as by-products,including powdered cappuccino,” says ArturoLizárraga. The company also markets sugar,jelly powder, chocolate, vanilla and strawberryflavoredbeverages, among o<strong>the</strong>r products.To streng<strong>the</strong>n its presence in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong>market, Sugar Foods Corporation establishedan alliance with Industrias Marino to marketsweeteners like Sweet’N Low, salad croutons,canned seafood, toasted bread, cereals, seeds,to name just a few. Some of <strong>the</strong>se products areproduced at <strong>the</strong> Industrias Marino plant inGuadalajara.HUMAN FACTORAS VALUABLE AS GOLDArturo Lizárraga believes that <strong>the</strong> devotionof <strong>the</strong> Industrias Marino team has been <strong>the</strong>key to its success. “People have always beenan invaluable asset to make this a successfulcompany,” he says.Along with <strong>the</strong> human factor, <strong>the</strong> qualityof products, clients’ loyalty and ongoing stafftraining have built Industrias Marino as a solidcompany both in <strong>the</strong> domestic and internationalmarkets.“Our customers know for a fact that Marinoproducts will always give <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> quality<strong>the</strong>y are used to get. While we have madechanges on <strong>the</strong> image of our products, we havealways been very cautious to meet our customers’specifications and that has resulted incontinued business with <strong>the</strong>m. Our worldwidecustomers’ taste is extremely demanding. Thequality of our products has helped developsuch taste and customers are reassured thatany of our products will always offer <strong>the</strong> samequality,” Lizárraga continues.With more than 60 years in <strong>the</strong> market,Industrias Marino is now looking upon newhorizons.“The way we see things is that we needto adapt to change. We feel we are preparedfor new, shifting, dynamic markets and arecapable of doing so; to look for new ways tomarket coffee while meeting each market’sexpectations. We will continue to diversifyour food products and make full use of ourmanufacturing capacity,” Arturo Lizárragaconcludes. nwww.cafemarino.com.mx


32 Negocios photos archiveA Combinationof Fair Tradeand MillenaryWisdomWith an annual growth rate of 32% since 1988, Quali fosters <strong>the</strong> developmentof amaranth growers and promotes <strong>the</strong> consumption ofnutritional products around <strong>the</strong> world.by antonio vázquezFor three decades, Qualihas streng<strong>the</strong>ned agriculturalsustainability and has bene an advocatefor <strong>the</strong> recovery of ancient<strong>Mexican</strong> food practices.Back in 1980, promoters from Alternativas yProcesos de Participación Social (Social ParticipationAlternatives and Processes) began a regionalsustainable development process in ruralareas in <strong>the</strong> state of Puebla, in Central Mexico.By 1983, <strong>the</strong> association started promoting amaranthplanting in <strong>the</strong> state. Amaranth is a proteinand iron rich plant that ancient Aztecs grew andate because of its nutritional properties. Besidescorn, beans and chía, amaranth was one of <strong>the</strong>staple foods for <strong>the</strong> Aztec civilization.Due to its abundant growth in temperatewea<strong>the</strong>r, it has developed naturally in <strong>the</strong> regionsof Puebla known as Mixteca-Popoloca, particularlyin <strong>the</strong> municipality of Tehuacán, as wellas in <strong>the</strong> neighboring state of Oaxaca. Since itsinception, Qualifocused its energy on<strong>the</strong>se two states in an effortto preserve millenary<strong>Mexican</strong> foods.Not only did Qualiseek to create profits bypromoting amaranth production,“in order to ensure afair grain price for growers” butalso decided to foster <strong>the</strong> developmentof a processing plant to turngrain into processed foods and to createjobs for growers’ families throughout <strong>the</strong> year.“That is <strong>the</strong> genesis of <strong>the</strong> group of social companiesthat make up Quali as a cooperative,”says Carmen Martínez, commercial directorof <strong>the</strong> company.


Mexico’s Partner qualiThe average annual growth of <strong>the</strong> companyafter over two decades of activity is 32%. Itis now in <strong>the</strong> process of streng<strong>the</strong>ning itspresence in <strong>the</strong> US market, which is constantlydemanding healthy foods.Quali’s agro industrial chain made up oflocal growers is based on respect and care ofwater and land for organic production. Qualiuses natural inputs that ensure food productsproduced are safe and chemical-free.“Quali has developed competitive advantagesin all three segments of <strong>the</strong> productionchain. First, growers are members of a cooperative,which is a part of <strong>the</strong> group. This enableslong-term relations, based on voluntaryagreements. Second, production technologyenables to harvest in arid land by making <strong>the</strong>best use of rain moisture, thus limiting lossesto drought. The third and main advantage ofQuali is <strong>the</strong> design and manufactureof its own equipment andmachinery,which it develops at its own technology center.This enables to make continuous improvementsas a quick response to challenges andlessons learned in <strong>the</strong> production process,”Martínez explains.The commercial director of <strong>the</strong> companystresses <strong>the</strong> fourth factor that has given Qualian advantage both in domestic and internationalmarkets: <strong>the</strong> high nutritional value andhigh quality level of <strong>the</strong> food products preparedwith amaranth.Quali is a socially responsible companyserving <strong>the</strong> region’s development. That hasresulted in empathic bonds between thosewho plant and harvest amaranth and <strong>the</strong>company, which has developed a successfulagro industrial model.“We incorporate contributions from cooperativemembers through <strong>the</strong> whole agriculturalprocess. Quali encourages experiencesharing through regional meetingsbetween members. Such meetingsare <strong>the</strong> perfect occasionto share knowledge on fertilizers,soil preparations,organic pest control andharvesting, just to name afew of <strong>the</strong> exchanges,” saysMartínez.Sharing this wisdom, inheritedfrom ancient timesand passed on from onegeneration to <strong>the</strong> next, hasresulted in its selection to representLatin America at <strong>the</strong> InternationalCouncil of <strong>the</strong> Slow Foodmovement which started in Italy andpromotes a new philosophy: to blend apleasure in tasting with knowledge wheneating. Currently, <strong>the</strong> Slow Food Movementis present in more than 50 countries.Quali produces five lines of nutritionalproducts to meet <strong>the</strong>ir customers’ demands.Snacks, candies, cookies, flour and cerealsare <strong>the</strong> five categories of a total of 27 productsmade of amaranth. The company closes thiscircle by supplying <strong>the</strong>ir customers with nutritionadvice on <strong>the</strong> use and consumption ofamaranth.“Quali’s goal is to improve families’ nutritionallevels, particularly in children. Thus<strong>the</strong> emphasis on producing candies, snacks,cookies, milk shakes and beverages, because<strong>the</strong>y are very attractive to children,” Martínezexplains.Quali has earned over a dozen awards.These include <strong>the</strong> National Agricultural FoodsAward in 2008, <strong>the</strong> Award for Merits on Ecologyin 2005, <strong>the</strong> Technology Against DesertificationAward, granted by <strong>the</strong> United NationsProgram for Development (UNDP) in 1998,and <strong>the</strong> Biodiversity Conservation Award, presentedby Slow Food in 2002.The high quality of Quali’s amaranth productsenabled <strong>the</strong> company to start exporting in 2004.Its main markets are Italy and Switzerland.“The international market has asked usfor <strong>the</strong> same things <strong>the</strong>y demand from anyexporter in <strong>the</strong> world: responsibility, meetingspecifications and agreed timelines,” Martínezexplains.The average annual growth rate of <strong>the</strong>company after over two decades of activity is32%. It is now in <strong>the</strong> process of streng<strong>the</strong>ningits presence in <strong>the</strong> US market, which is constantlydemanding healthy foods.“Quali’s food products target people whocare about improving <strong>the</strong>ir nutrition and whoare also interested in ethical consumption,”concludes Martínez. nwww.quali.com.mx


34 Negocios photo courtesy of grupo thmTekitoma,Tomato GrowersWorking Toge<strong>the</strong>rMexico is seeking to consolidate its market advantagein tomato exports with <strong>the</strong> creation of a national brand.by karla garduñoTomatoes are an important<strong>Mexican</strong> product on internationalmarkets, accounting foralmost 20% of <strong>the</strong> total valueof <strong>the</strong> country’s agriculturalexports, according to <strong>the</strong> National Statisticsand Geography Institute (INEGI, for its acronymin Spanish).And <strong>the</strong>ir value has increased two-foldover <strong>the</strong> last 10 years, with tomato salesamounting to 29 million usd (11%) of total agriculturalexports valued at 255 million usd asof July 2001.Mexico is one of <strong>the</strong> world’s leading tomatoexporters, because its product complieswith international quality and food safetystandards, says Manuel Cázares Castro, a nongovernmentrepresentative of <strong>the</strong> TomatoProduct System and president of <strong>the</strong> SonoraTomato Farmers Board.Recent data from FAO (2008) corroboratesCázares’ statement but reveals that whileMexico does indeed rate among <strong>the</strong> countrieswith <strong>the</strong> largest amount of tomato exports interms of volume (approximately one milliontons a year), it rates only third in terms of <strong>the</strong>value of <strong>the</strong>se exports after The Ne<strong>the</strong>rlandsand Spain. Mexico’s tomatoes fetch one thousand800 usd a ton, while at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end of<strong>the</strong> scale are countries like India, where a tonof tomatoes has a market value of 237 usd.“Normally we would focus on <strong>the</strong> farmingside and leave <strong>the</strong> sales aspect to an intermediary,which didn’t always work out inour best interest. Ei<strong>the</strong>r brokers wouldn’t pay<strong>the</strong> agreed price or would sell below marketvalue. There was uncertainty and <strong>the</strong> mostaffected party was <strong>the</strong> farmer, who puts a lotof time and effort into growing and harvestinghis tomatoes,” says Cázares.Mexico’s tomato growers have taken varioussteps to turn this disheartening panoramaaround. With <strong>the</strong> backing of ProMéxico andSAGARPA, <strong>the</strong>y have formed <strong>the</strong>ir own tradingcompany to shore up <strong>the</strong> supply chain.In August 2011, <strong>the</strong> first 20 ton-shipment ofTekitoma tomatoes –harvested in 13 <strong>Mexican</strong>states– left for <strong>the</strong> US.“In <strong>the</strong> Yaqui, Mayan and Náhuatl dialectstekitoma means ‘<strong>the</strong> men and women of Mex-


36 NegociosTop ten producers IN 2010StateSurface(hectares)Production(tons)Value ofproduction(milion pesos)Sinaloa 14,095.68 687,056.78 3.24Baja California 3,562.80 221,626.18 2.53Michoacán 5,264.80 155,354.04 0.67Zacatecas 3,503.00 144,360.83 0.67Jalisco 1,861.75 140,801.90 0.99Baja California Sur 2,306.00 103,212.02 0.74San Luis Potosí 2,241.50 98,093.00 0.74Estado de México 1,483.30 81,711.93 0.56Guanajuato 870.05 80,459.99 0.76Morelos 2,162.10 70,337.21 0.61Source: Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock, Rural Development, Fisheries andFood - Servicio de Información Agroalimentaria y Pesquera (SIAP).* Figures from January to July 2011.<strong>Mexican</strong> tomato in numbersYearCultivatedSurface(hectares)Production(tons)Exports(million usd)2000 75,098.52 2’086.029.72 462.522001 76,687.80 2’149,931.61 532.432002 69,814.04 1’989,979.23 609.432003 70,390.37 2’171,159.43 868.462004 75,605.28 2’314,629.90 909.392005 74,354.56 2’246,246.34 881.472006 66,509.39 2’093,431.59 1,119.342007 66,635.31 2’425,402.77 1,068.622008 57,248.08 2’263,201.65 1,205.392009 53,572.62 2’043,814.55 1,210.762010 54,510.59 2’277,791.43 1,618.072011 32,519 651,355 1,430.94day laborers, who work only during harvestseason.Total annual production of <strong>the</strong> 13 states involvedin <strong>the</strong> project has an estimated value of1.15 billion usd.“The main actor here is <strong>the</strong> social sector.Cooperatives and indigenous communitiesparticipate alongside private enterprise. Thatis what differentiates us. We are united by acommon need. States with advanced technologylike Sinaloa, which is <strong>the</strong> number one inthis respect, participate on an equal footingwith states like Sonora, Baja California, Morelos,Michoacán, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato,Oaxaca, Zacatecas, Nuevo León, Puebla, Veracruzand even Chiapas,” says Cázares.TOMATOES HERE, THEREAND EVERYWHEREIt is expected that Mexico will produce morethan 2.4 million tons of red tomatoes in 2011.Eight states in Nor<strong>the</strong>rn Mexico –Sinaloa,Baja California, Baja California Sur, Tamaulipas,Coahuila, Sonora, Nuevo León and Chihuahua–account for 55% of <strong>the</strong> total production,according to INEGI figures.That is because <strong>the</strong>se nor<strong>the</strong>rn stateshave more advanced farming technology –arequirement in <strong>the</strong> absence of ideal tomatogrowing wea<strong>the</strong>r. States with better wea<strong>the</strong>rdon’t require irrigation systems, for example.And while central and sou<strong>the</strong>rn states –mainlyMichoacán, Jalisco and San Luis Potosí–have traditionally supplied <strong>the</strong> domestic market,nor<strong>the</strong>rn states have focused on exportmarkets due to <strong>the</strong>ir proximity to <strong>the</strong> border.This explains some of <strong>the</strong> differences betweenMexico’s sou<strong>the</strong>rn and nor<strong>the</strong>rn statesin terms of technology and <strong>the</strong> financial assistance<strong>the</strong>y receive and why every year, thousandsof laborers make <strong>the</strong>ir way North fromsou<strong>the</strong>rn states like Guerrero, Oaxaca andChiapas during harvest season.“The nor<strong>the</strong>rn states appear to be technologicallyadvanced. For example, Sinaloa,which has been producing and exportingtomatoes for 100 years; Sonora and Baja California,which work toge<strong>the</strong>r and to a certainextent benefit from this know-how, but on <strong>the</strong>issue of financial assistance, I know for a factcertain states have received assistance for protectedagriculture projects. What we are dealingwith here, however, is a nationwide projectand we need to find a way to make sure everyonegets a slice of <strong>the</strong> pie because we’re inthis toge<strong>the</strong>r and that’s what makes this sucha unique, historic project and definitely not aneasy one to coordinate,” says Cázares.Many challenges lie ahead but significan<strong>the</strong>adway has been made. In 2010, productionincreased 7% and that upward trend has continuedthroughout 2011. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, productionis no longer limited to globe and saladtomatoes but has branched off into cherry,grape, campari and less common varieties, toensure prices remain competitive.“If we can diversify and coordinate production,we can maintain good prices and goodmarkets. But we can only achieve that if westick toge<strong>the</strong>r, which is why all 13 states arepooling <strong>the</strong>ir efforts. We’re lucky in that we’vebeen able to find institutions and governmentofficials willing to support us in this endeavor,”concludes Cázares. nTekitoma13 states involved1. Michoacán2. Morelos3. Puebla4. Oaxaca5. Veracruz6. Nuevo León7. Zacatecas8. San Luis Potosí9. Guanajuato10. Sinaloa11. Sonora12. Chiapas13. Baja California


Mexico’s Partner Agrícola Chaparralphoto Lenore gloverFrom <strong>the</strong> Fieldsof Sinaloa to <strong>the</strong>Pizzas of <strong>the</strong> USAgrícola Chaparral exports some three million cratesof tomatoes and peppers to <strong>the</strong> US every year.The fertile soil of Sinaloa innorthwest Mexico and <strong>the</strong>markets of <strong>the</strong> US have provento be <strong>the</strong> perfect match forAgrícola Chaparral, a companythat specializes in <strong>the</strong> production and exportof bell peppers, grape and globe tomatoes. In2009, exports to <strong>the</strong> US totaled three millioncrates –one fourth of <strong>the</strong> company’s annualproduction.Agrícola Chaparral has been operatingfor six decades and is a well-known name in<strong>the</strong> business, particularly in <strong>the</strong> US where itsinfrastructure has enabled it to reach millionsof homes.Quality produce has come to be synonymouswith <strong>the</strong> state of Sinaloa, which isblessed with good wea<strong>the</strong>r nearly all yearround. In 2010, no less than four agriculturalcompanies from Sinaloa received <strong>the</strong> NationalExport Award by Mexico’s Trade Board. AgrícolaChaparral won in <strong>the</strong> “Large AgriculturalExporter” category.In his acceptance speech, Agrícola ChaparralDirector Sergio Esquer revealed that <strong>the</strong>secret to <strong>the</strong> company’s success is its physicalpresence in <strong>the</strong> US. “That means we can meetdemand on a high value market without <strong>the</strong>need for intermediaries,” he said.But that’s not where Agrícola Chaparral’scompetitive advantages end. The company hasits own transport fleet, plus <strong>the</strong> technology andland to harvest tomatoes and peppers all yearround. Additionally it offers packaging servicesto o<strong>the</strong>r producers, due to <strong>the</strong> safety, physical,chemical and microbiological quality of itsproducts, which are fully certified.Social responsibility is ano<strong>the</strong>r area inwhich Agrícola Chaparral has made a stand. InAugust 2010, <strong>the</strong> company signed <strong>the</strong> UnitedNations Global Compact in <strong>the</strong> presence of UNSecretary General Ban Ki-Moon, along with300 o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Mexican</strong> companies. By subscribingto that strategic policy initiative, AgrícolaChaparral has effectively agreed to align itsoperations with 10 universally accepted principlesin <strong>the</strong> areas of human rights, labor, environmentand anti-corruption.In February 2011, Sergio Esquer announcedthat <strong>the</strong> company planned to purchaseland in <strong>the</strong> neighboring Pacific coaststate of Nayarit, substantially expanding its500-hectare holdings in Sinaloa. In 2011, 27hectares of red and grape tomatoes and redbell peppers will be planted in <strong>the</strong> municipalityof Compostela and, with productionexpected to increase to 200 hectares over<strong>the</strong> next five years, consumers in <strong>the</strong> US, andquite possibly Japan, can be assured a tasteof Mexico in <strong>the</strong>ir salads, pizzas, ketchup andjuice. nwww.agricolachaparral.com


38 Negocios photo ARCHIVEAneberriesSweet Talks MarketsSome of Mexico’s top berryexporters join forces to produceunbeatable quality.“United we stand” is a catchphrase oftenrepeated by superheroes in comicbooks but in <strong>the</strong> very real world of businessit actually means something. Theproof of <strong>the</strong> pudding is in <strong>the</strong> NationalBerry Exporters Association (Aneberries, accordingto its Spanish acronym), a recentlyformed group of <strong>the</strong> country’s leading berryproducers and exporters that is sweet talkingits way into markets in <strong>the</strong> US and Europe.Mexico’s semitropical climate gives it anatural competitive edge in <strong>the</strong> production of


Mexico’s Partner AneberriesThe group’s members are all major berry growers andexporters, <strong>the</strong> vast majority of which are located in CentralMexico, in <strong>the</strong> states of Jalisco and Michoacán, although someare in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn state of Baja California and o<strong>the</strong>rs arebased in Colima, a central state on <strong>the</strong> Pacific coast.strawberries, cranberries, blackberries andraspberries. “We have <strong>the</strong> best blackberriesin <strong>the</strong> world as far as flavor and quality go,”says Humberto Maldonado, food safety managerat Driscoll’s Operaciones, an Aneberriesmember.Aware of <strong>the</strong> potential of Mexico’s fertilesoil and clement wea<strong>the</strong>r, Mario Steta beganworking with berry producers in 2009. Oneyear later, in June of 2010, Aneberries was officiallycreated. An experienced farmer, Stetais <strong>the</strong> driving force behind <strong>the</strong> association,which has progressed in leaps and bounds in arelatively short time and is now well on its wayto achieve its goal of guaranteeing that all <strong>the</strong>berries produced by its members comply withinternational food safety standards.The group’s members are all major berrygrowers and exporters, <strong>the</strong> vast majority ofwhich are located in Central Mexico, in <strong>the</strong>states of Jalisco and Michoacán, althoughsome have operations in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn state ofBaja California and o<strong>the</strong>rs in Colima, a centralstate on <strong>the</strong> Pacific coast. Harvest seasons herevary, which means <strong>Mexican</strong> grown berries areavailable nearly all year round.Aside from mediating between exporters,government entities and buyers in Mexico andabroad, Aneberries’ mission is to bring newmembers on board, guarantee <strong>the</strong> safety ofits products, promote berry exports and tapinto new markets, professionalize and keep itsmembers informed of new technical developmentsand scientific know-how, protect <strong>the</strong>environment and support research in <strong>the</strong> interestsof <strong>the</strong> sector’s development.The future looks “berry” promising. Mexicohas been supplying <strong>the</strong> US market withstrawberries for almost half a century butconsumer demand for both fresh and frozenstrawberries is on <strong>the</strong> rise, as is demand forstrawberries by <strong>the</strong> processed foods industry.According to <strong>the</strong> Ministry of Agriculture,Livestock, Rural Development, Fisheries andFood (SAGARPA, according to its Spanish acronym),Mexico accounts for <strong>the</strong> bulk of freshstrawberry imports in <strong>the</strong> US, where it holds a7% share of <strong>the</strong> strawberry market.According to Humberto Maldonado,Mexico utilizes more land for <strong>the</strong> productionof blackberries than any o<strong>the</strong>r country in <strong>the</strong>world.A study conducted by Aneberries foundthat <strong>Mexican</strong> strawberries could be highlysuccessful in Germany, Canada, Italy and <strong>the</strong>UK, due to <strong>the</strong>ir outstanding flavor and quality.To ensure its products are not only tastybut also comply with <strong>the</strong> most stringent foodsafety standards in <strong>the</strong> world, Aneberries isupdating its members on <strong>the</strong> new Food SafetyLaw issued by <strong>the</strong> FDA. The goal is to bringMexico into line with <strong>the</strong> US and <strong>the</strong> EU regarding<strong>the</strong> type of pesticides and chemicalsused in <strong>the</strong> production of its berries and <strong>the</strong>identification of critical control points.


40 Negociosphoto ARCHIVEAneberries estimates thatMexico’s berry production willincrease four-fold over <strong>the</strong> nextfive years.Aneberries is also working with <strong>the</strong> Universityof Guadalajara (UdeG, according to itsSpanish acronym), <strong>the</strong> second largest in <strong>the</strong>country, on a study to determine raspberryand strawberry contamination risks, while itsproducts have been certified and its processesaudited by ProMéxico, <strong>the</strong> governmental entityset up to coordinate strategies to promoteMexico’s participation in <strong>the</strong> global economy,namely through exports.Mexico’s supermarket shelves and <strong>the</strong>thousands of crates of berries already exportedare proof of <strong>the</strong> success of <strong>the</strong>se strategies.According to SAGARPA figures, 14,384 hectaresof strawberries, raspberries, blackberriesand redcurrants were planted in Mexicoin 2009 –almost twice <strong>the</strong> area planted in2000– while 364,156 tons of berries wereharvested, creating over 81,300 direct jobsduring <strong>the</strong> process.In 2010, six thousand 500 hectares of strawberrieswere planted, yielding three thousandcrates per hectare. This year, <strong>the</strong> strawberryharvest was valued at 234 million usd, of whichexports accounted for 163.8 million usd.Of <strong>the</strong> 12,000 hectares of blackberriesplanted, production stood at three thousandcrates per hectare, with a total value of 324million usd, of which 226.8 million usd correspondedto exports.Some one thousand hectares of raspberrieswere planted, with a harvest valued at 45 millionusd, 31.5 million usd of which were exportrevenues.The cranberry harvest yielded 850 cratesper hectare across 850 hectares and was valuedat 13.7 million usd, with exports making upnine million usd.Aneberries estimates that Mexico’s berryproduction will increase four-fold over <strong>the</strong>next five years. Soon millions of consumersworldwide will be able to enjoy <strong>the</strong> sweet berriesproduced in <strong>Mexican</strong> soil thanks to Aneberries,whose producers stand united. nwww.aneberries.mxANEBERRIES MEMBERS14 Companies, One GoalAgrana Fruit MéxicoAgro SuperiorBerries ParadiseHortifrutBerrymexDriscoll’s OperacionesAgroindustrial El MolinitoExpoberriesExportadora Internacional de FrutasHurst’s MéxicoMagromexSplendor ProduceSun Belle MéxicoVBM Giumarra


42 Negocios i The LifestyleActors Inf luencingMexico’sContemporaryArt Sceneby christian obregónIt’s no secret that Mexico’s contemporary art scene is thriving.In recent years, actors from practically every corner of <strong>the</strong>industry have made <strong>the</strong> pilgrimage to what is now viewed as<strong>the</strong> promised land of creativity. Cultural assets have becomehard currency and Mexico is cashing in on <strong>the</strong> domino effect.Year in, year out, gallery owners, artists, collectors, curators,<strong>the</strong> media, foundations, expo organizers and tourists –from<strong>the</strong> accidental to <strong>the</strong> opinionated– come to Mexico, curiousas to why <strong>the</strong> country’s name crops up again and again, in acreative industry whose economic and social input should notbe underestimated.We bring you nine actors who are shaping Mexico’s art scene.


<strong>the</strong> Lifestyle feature contemporary art in mexicophotos courtesy of Melanie smith / Rafael ortega & Galerie Peter KilchmannMelanie smithPioneerBritish artist Melanie Smith is one of <strong>the</strong> founding members of <strong>the</strong> contemporaryart scene in Mexico. Born in Poole, England (1965), Smith moved toMexico City in 1989 –an experience that has enormously influenced herworks ever since. Her earlier pieces considered Mexico City itself, recordingits multitudes, its banality and its clandestine nature. The most outstandingpiece from that cycle is her video Spiral city (2002). In 2011, Melanie Smithrepresented Mexico at <strong>the</strong> 54th Venice Biennial with her show Red SquareImpossible Pink, featuring three pieces: Aztec stadium. Malleable Deed (Video,2010) –it consists of mosaics created by 3,000 students from <strong>Mexican</strong>public schools, who compose various images from <strong>the</strong> history of art, suchas Malevich’s Red Square, as well as from <strong>Mexican</strong> nationalist and evenfrom <strong>the</strong> popular images of mass culture–, Package (Video, 2010) –an affectivemass that fixates on different symbolic orders to disturb, interrupt andabove all, hinder <strong>the</strong> flow and symbolic network of a variety of historical, political,social and economic registers– and Xilitla: Dismantled 1 (Video, 2011)–in which <strong>the</strong> artist disassembles <strong>the</strong> surreal construction mechanisms that<strong>the</strong> British poet and patron of <strong>the</strong> arts Edward James used to build Las Pozas,his semitropical enclave near Xilitla, San Luis Potosí.


44 Negocios i The Lifestyle photos Archive / courtesy of marcos castroGABRIEL OROZCOAcclaimedOne of <strong>the</strong> more controversial figures of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong> and internationalart scene, Gabriel Orozco (Xalapa, 1962) has produced a multidisciplinaryoeuvre that exploits virtually every known medium and material.A graduate of <strong>the</strong> National School of Plastic Arts (ENAP) at <strong>the</strong>National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), this conceptualdissident intentionally sets out to distort conventional meaning. Orozcobegan to gain international repute in <strong>the</strong> late 1980s when he moved toMadrid to continue his studies. By <strong>the</strong> mid 1990s, he was rated one of<strong>the</strong> most highly valued living artists on <strong>the</strong> planet, credited with bringinga new lease of life to modern artistic discourse. Tradition, design, appropriationand intellectual puns, all come into play in <strong>the</strong> work of this artist,whose most paradigmatic pieces include an oval pool table entitled Ovalwith Pendulum, Black Kites, a human skull-cum-chess board, and EmptyShoebox.In 2002, Juan Carlos Martín directed a documentary on Orozco, anda complete retrospective of <strong>the</strong> artist and his work made a tour of Mexico,<strong>the</strong> United States, Switzerland, France and England between 2009and 2011. He is currently living and creating in New York.


<strong>the</strong> Lifestyle feature contemporary art in mexicoMARCOS CASTROUp and ComingMarcos Castro (Mexico City, 1981) raises new questions about <strong>the</strong> connectionbetween art and <strong>the</strong> environment. Stylistically, this up and comingartist shows a marked preference for audiovisual media but it is his drawingsand engravings that have located him on <strong>the</strong> contemporary art map.A graduate of <strong>the</strong> prestigious Esmeralda Art School in Mexico City, Castrois heir to <strong>the</strong> cultural legacy of previous generations of artists who brokewith exacerbated “<strong>Mexican</strong>ism.” His is an intimate universe, populated bytrees, wolves, bears, deer, clouds and o<strong>the</strong>r elements of <strong>the</strong> natural worldthat merge to create a mystical, oneiric alternative to today’s concept-obsessedart world. Bus Roots –a series of bus-borne mobile gardens createdwith <strong>the</strong> backing of <strong>the</strong> Louvre Museum and <strong>the</strong> Jardin des Tuileries– is<strong>the</strong> most recent project by this natural born nomad, who is always on <strong>the</strong>lookout for fresh inspiration. Definitely an artist to keep track of, judgingfrom <strong>the</strong> number of heads Bus Roots turned on <strong>the</strong> streets of Paris.


46 Negocios i The Lifestyle photos ArchiveGONZALO LEBRIJASubversiveAnarchic and iconoclastic, Gonzalo Lebrija (Mexico City, 1972) is knownfor <strong>the</strong> cinematographic-like quality of his work, which analyzes powerstructures using media and materials that run <strong>the</strong> whole gamut, fromvideo and photography to sculpture and installation art, formats he combinesto imbue traditional art concepts with new meaning. The artistsubverts reality by means of <strong>the</strong> very same elements that shape it; a paradoxthat jolts <strong>the</strong> spectator out of his complacence and forces him to live<strong>the</strong> aes<strong>the</strong>tic experience to <strong>the</strong> fullest. Lebrija’s <strong>the</strong>oretical musings takeon substance in his object art, which reveals nostalgia for <strong>the</strong> past and apassion for motorized vehicles, especially vintage automobiles, which heei<strong>the</strong>r reinterprets or uses to illustrate that perception is not limited toconventional logic or even, <strong>the</strong> force of gravity. His most recent solo exhibitionran from April through August 2011 at <strong>the</strong> Modern Art Museumin Mexico City.


48 Negocios i The Lifestylephotos álvaro argûelles / courtesy of colección jumexJOSÉ NOÉ SUROInnovatorJosé Noé Suro Salceda has played a decisive role in changing <strong>the</strong> wayart is produced in Mexico. An entrepreneur with an eye for an overlookedmarket niche, Suro’s “art factory” in Tlaquepaque, Jalisco, hasproduced works by artists of <strong>the</strong> likes of Eduardo Sarabia, MiguelCalderón, Thomas Glassford, Eric Wesley, Phillipe Parreno, JohnBaldessari, James Turrell, Liz Craft and Joep van Lieshout, to namejust a few.Founded in 1951 by Noé Suro Olivares, Cerámica Suro originallyspecialized in <strong>the</strong> production of arts and crafts but José Noé Suro decidedto take <strong>the</strong> family business down a new path, motivated by hispassion for art and <strong>the</strong> business potential of this glaring gap in <strong>the</strong>market. Today <strong>the</strong> company applies its experience to <strong>the</strong> manufactureof works that comprise <strong>the</strong> contemporary art collections of some of<strong>the</strong> world’s most prestigious museums.


<strong>the</strong> Lifestyle feature contemporary art in mexicoEUGENIO LÓPEZCollectorEugenio López Alonso (Mexico City, 1969) has always had a passion forart, which he has channeled into <strong>the</strong> Colección Jumex, one of <strong>the</strong> largestart collections in Latin America, that showcases its creator’s good tasteand love of vanguard artistic trends. Part of a series of initiatives designedto reposition <strong>the</strong> family beverage business and promote creative talentin Mexico, from <strong>the</strong> outset López’ mission was to offer <strong>the</strong> general publicaccess to a collection that is essentially private. Some 80 million usd wereinitially invested to acquire works by internationally-acclaimed artists.Today <strong>the</strong> collection –officially unveiled in 1999 in an annex of GrupoJumex in Ecatepec, Estado de México– boasts over two thousand worksof art, mainly by artists born between 1960 and 1980. Having recentlysettled into its new home at Plaza Carso in <strong>the</strong> Polanco district of MexicoCity, <strong>the</strong> collection will enjoy greater public exposure now that it is withincloser proximity to <strong>the</strong> city’s museum circuit.


50 Negocios i The Lifestyle photos courtesy of sofía hernández chong cuy / courtesy of taxi around <strong>the</strong> artSOFÍA HERNÁNDEZ CHONG CUYCosmopolitanThe role of <strong>the</strong> curator has taken on new meaning thanks to SofíaHernández Chong Cuy (Mexicali, 1975), who has spent <strong>the</strong> last 11 yearsdreaming up new ways of bringing society into contact with art. A fulltimeresearcher with an experimental mindset, Hernández graduatedfrom New York’s Bard College with a degree in Curatorial Studies andhas helped oversee international exhibits for organizations like Art inGeneral, <strong>the</strong> Americas Society, <strong>the</strong> Kadist Art Foundation, <strong>the</strong> BuenosAires Museum of Latin American Art (malba), <strong>the</strong> Vilnius ContemporaryArt Centre in Lithuania and <strong>the</strong> documenta contemporary art exhibitionthat takes place every five years in Kassel, Germany. A few monthsago, she stepped down as director of Mexico City’s Rufino Tamayo Museumto take over as curator of <strong>the</strong> Colección Patricia Phelps de Cisneros(cppc). Based in New York City and Caracas, <strong>the</strong> cppc is deemed <strong>the</strong> bestcollection of Latin American art ever assembled.


<strong>the</strong> Lifestyle feature contemporary art in mexicoTAXI AROUND THE ARTIndispensableWith only four issues on its meter, Taxi Around The Art is rapidly becominga must for both critics and would-be art buffs. The mission ofits editorial team is to “make contemporary art accessible to <strong>the</strong> generalpublic” by acting as a bridge that narrows <strong>the</strong> gap between creators andspectators. What sets this magazine apart from its peers is its all-inclusiveapproach. Taxi Around <strong>the</strong> Art doesn’t get bogged down in curatorial orartistic discourse but ra<strong>the</strong>r explores <strong>the</strong> role of o<strong>the</strong>r actors in <strong>the</strong> industry,such as art promoters, collectors, manufacturers and exhibit organizers.A publication that takes <strong>the</strong> pulse of Mexico’s art scene makes for interestingspecialized reading, while avoiding <strong>the</strong> technicalities that mightsend <strong>the</strong> less academically-inclined reader straight to ano<strong>the</strong>r shelf on<strong>the</strong> newsstand.


52 Negocios i The Lifestyle photo courtesy of Luis adelantado méxico


54 Negocios i The Lifestylephotos courtesy of Luis adelantado méxico / courtesy of unamThe art world is a closedcircle and we need to makeit possible for young peopleto break into it by creating apure atmosphere.— How long have you been in Mexico andwhy did you choose to work here?I opened <strong>the</strong> gallery two years ago but I’ve beenworking in Mexico for 15 years now. I’ve beenparticipating in Zona Maco for a long time andhave good clients but, more importantly, a lot ofvery good friends.— What is it that strikes you most about<strong>Mexican</strong> culture?What I find most fascinating about <strong>Mexican</strong>s ingeneral is <strong>the</strong>ir character. They are good communicatorsand are very friendly. Mexico’s mostvaluable asset is its people, without a shadowof a doubt.— What do you think of <strong>Mexican</strong> gallerygoers and how have <strong>the</strong>y responded toyour shows?I’m glad to see that young <strong>Mexican</strong>s are graduallycarving out a place for <strong>the</strong>mselves in <strong>the</strong> artworld. They go with <strong>the</strong> flow. You can tell <strong>the</strong>y’remotivated and interested. And those who canafford it contribute by buying art.— What is your opinion of contemporary<strong>Mexican</strong> art?I’ve always had an interest in <strong>Mexican</strong> art. I’veworked with many <strong>Mexican</strong> artists, even beforeI set up my gallery here. Competitively speaking,<strong>the</strong>ir work is of international standard. Theyare just as good as artists from o<strong>the</strong>r countries.— What projects do you have in <strong>the</strong> pipelinefor your gallery in Mexico?Just recently, we opened an exhibition by DaríoVillalba, who represented Spain at <strong>the</strong> 1975 VeniceBiennale. He’s an excellent artist, althoughhe’s getting on in years. Definitely not one tobe missed!On a different note, this March I set up a juryof critics to take part in a project that is verydavid miranda agorafobiaclose to my heart. For <strong>the</strong> last 12 years, I’ve beenfinancing a competition for young artists at mygallery in Spain. Emerging artists are asked tosend in a simple dossier and we organize anexhibition of <strong>the</strong> works selected. It’s very motivatingfor <strong>the</strong>m. I’m doing something similarin Mexico.This year, artists from various countriessent in dossiers and one of those selected was avery young but very talented <strong>Mexican</strong> artist. I’mproud to announce my gallery in Mexico Citywill be staging his solo exhibition and it would begreat if o<strong>the</strong>r galleries could help promote him.We have six projects planned for 2012. Wehaven’t settled on any dates yet but <strong>the</strong> selectionprocess has been completed and I’m confident<strong>the</strong> exhibitions will meet with success.— What advice would you give young artistswho are trying to make a name for<strong>the</strong>mselves in <strong>the</strong> art world, especially inMexico?The situation hasn’t changed much in a longtime. There are more artists than galleries. Fewartists make it big but I’m seeing more and morestudents and more young people set on getting<strong>the</strong>re. It’s very exciting. Acclaim is meant to beenjoyed but so is <strong>the</strong> path to achieving it. Talentand originality are what matter most inmy book.My advice to young artists would be not to siton <strong>the</strong>ir laurels. They need to get out <strong>the</strong>re andattend exhibitions, soak up all <strong>the</strong> art <strong>the</strong>y can,go to conferences, participate in competitions athome and abroad. I can’t stress <strong>the</strong> importanceof that enough, because at every competition,at every fair, at every exhibition is a differentcurator and <strong>the</strong>re’s no knowing who <strong>the</strong>y’regoing to pick. They need to get exposure so <strong>the</strong>irwork can be exhibited at a gallery. Once <strong>the</strong>y’vereached that milestone, <strong>the</strong> rest is much easier.— What strategies do you think are neededto instill an appreciation and interest inart among young people?Young people need our support. We have tomake it easier for <strong>the</strong>m by awarding morescholarships and motivating <strong>the</strong>m. We need toencourage <strong>the</strong>m to play an active part in localcultural events and, where possible, provide economicassistance so <strong>the</strong>y have more free time tostudy and visit museums and galleries at homeand fur<strong>the</strong>r afield.The art world is a closed circle and we needto make it possible for young people to breakinto it by creating a pure atmosphere. Just as I’minvolved in this project to support young emergingartists, so should o<strong>the</strong>r galleries be doing <strong>the</strong>irpart. Like any venture, it has its risks but in mycase I’m pleased to say <strong>the</strong>se have been morethan outweighed by <strong>the</strong> results. Some excellentartists have emerged. n


Profile Thomas GlassfordThomas GlassfordThe Dichotomiesof Having a Footon both Sidesof <strong>the</strong> Borderby maría josé esteva


56 Negocios i The Lifestylephoto kent wangAmerican by birth, <strong>Mexican</strong> by choice, <strong>the</strong>re can be no understanding Glassford’swork without taking into account <strong>the</strong> influence Mexico has had on it.Since November 2011, ThomasGlassford’s Xipe Tótechas been illuminating <strong>the</strong>building that housed <strong>the</strong>Ministry of Foreign Affairs(SRE, according to itsSpanish acronym) designedby <strong>Mexican</strong> architect PedroRamírez Vázquez in <strong>the</strong> 1960s.Glassford’s intervention coversall four facades of this iconicbuilding –now a university culturalcenter– in <strong>the</strong> Tlatelolcodistrict of Mexico City.Born in 1963 in Laredo, Texas, ThomasGlassford has been living in Mexico since 1990.The fact that his parents’ home was on <strong>the</strong> borderof Mexico and <strong>the</strong> US had an indisputableinfluence on his approach to art and culture, as<strong>the</strong> artist himself commented during a conversationwith Rose Mary Salum three years ago:“Their house was right on <strong>the</strong> border and itwas an extension of <strong>the</strong> Sonora desert. And <strong>the</strong>river that passed nearby, literally from ano<strong>the</strong>rcountry, made me think of <strong>the</strong> dichotomies of<strong>the</strong> environment and landscapes of culture.”This fork in <strong>the</strong> road was to become <strong>the</strong>leitmotif of his work as an artist. Ano<strong>the</strong>r recurring<strong>the</strong>me is <strong>the</strong> juxtaposition of <strong>the</strong> organicand <strong>the</strong> syn<strong>the</strong>tic, as illustrated in “Untitledwith Hose and Faucet” –one of <strong>the</strong> pieceson show at <strong>the</strong> collective Colección Jumexexhibition, Destello, under <strong>the</strong> curatorial supervisionof Osvaldo Sánchez. Here we can seea gourd –<strong>the</strong> fruit of <strong>the</strong> calabash used by pre-Hispanic civilizations to store and transportwater– sharing <strong>the</strong> limelight with hoses and astainless steel faucet. What’s interesting about<strong>the</strong> piece is <strong>the</strong> coming toge<strong>the</strong>r of opposites,


Profile Thomas Glassfordhow <strong>the</strong> natural and <strong>the</strong> man-made appear totake <strong>the</strong>ir place alongside each o<strong>the</strong>r in an uncannilynatural fashion.Also on exhibit at Destello is Glassford’sAutogol –a piece from his solo exhibit of <strong>the</strong>same name staged in Mexico when he hadbeen living in <strong>the</strong> country for only a shorttime. Sprayed with auto paint, this fiberglasssculpture of a chili pepper with its stalkturned in on itself, reveals a very <strong>Mexican</strong>sense of humor that is always welcome in anart world that tends to take itself too seriously.After all <strong>the</strong>se years living and working inMexico, it seems Thomas has acquired a tastefor <strong>the</strong> irreverent.The artist’s work is currently on publicdisplay at <strong>the</strong> Tlatelolco University CulturalCenter (CCUT, according to its Spanish acronym)in Mexico City. Up until a few yearsago, this iconic building housed <strong>the</strong> Ministryof Foreign Affairs; today Glassford celebratesits rebirth with an intervention called XipeTótec in honor of <strong>the</strong> Aztec god referred toas “Our Lord <strong>the</strong> Flayed One.” Legend has itXipe Tótec shed his skin to feed mankind, justas Tlatelolco has shed <strong>the</strong> old and embraced<strong>the</strong> new.“It’s an attempt to give it a new sense ofplace,” stated <strong>the</strong> artist at its unveiling.During <strong>the</strong> day, <strong>the</strong> thin mesh covering<strong>the</strong> building is barely discernible but comenightfall it lights up in blue and red, like anurban lighthouse guiding us to a place whereMexico’s pre-Hispanic and colonial past coexistswith <strong>the</strong> Mexico of <strong>the</strong> present. That placeis <strong>the</strong> Plaza de las Tres Culturas (Square of<strong>the</strong> Three Cultures), where <strong>the</strong> CCUT standssurrounded by structures representing eachof <strong>the</strong>se three eras in <strong>the</strong> country’s history.Joining <strong>the</strong> ranks of this cultural heritage isXipe Tótec, which represents Mexico’s brightfuture.And for those who are concerned abouthow much electricity an intervention of thismagnitude requires, Glassford is quick to emphasizethat <strong>the</strong> LED lights it is made of consumeno more than two average households.In <strong>the</strong> words of CCUT’s Director Sergio Arroyo,Xipe Tótec is nei<strong>the</strong>r an eccentricity nora decorative element; it is a highly audaciousintervention that is at once a token of hospitality:“A sign of life.”American by birth, <strong>Mexican</strong> by choice,one cannot understand Glassford’s workwithout taking into account Mexico’s influenceon it. The opposite also holds true: inthis dichotomic tug of war, <strong>the</strong>re can be nodenying Glassford has helped shape <strong>the</strong> faceof contemporary <strong>Mexican</strong> art. His relationshipwith Mexico, <strong>the</strong> Mexico he has calledhis home for <strong>the</strong> last 20 years, is a mutuallyfruitful and appreciative one. n


58 Negocios i The Lifestylephoto courtesy of luis adelantado méxicoWHEN MEXICANGALLERIES CROSSEDTHE BORDERSThe Art Fair StrategyMany factors have intervened in <strong>the</strong> increasing internationalization of <strong>Mexican</strong> art, notleast <strong>the</strong> country’s growing participation in art fairs and biennials. ARCOmadrid, ArtBasel, Scope, Pulse, Armory Show, ArtBo and ArteBA are just some of <strong>the</strong> internationalevents Mexico’s galleries make an annual date with, without forgetting Zona Maco, <strong>the</strong>most prestigious homegrown contemporary art fair.by mariana pérez montes


Art contemporary art galleriesWhen it comes to contemporary art,internationalization is not standardization.Immersed in this dichotomy,<strong>Mexican</strong> contemporary art is notabout a loss of cultural identity butra<strong>the</strong>r a constant dialogue between artists from every cornerof <strong>the</strong> globe.The complex world of art, with its many and varied mediums,forms and discourses, has made it possible for American,Asian, European and Latin American artists to discover moreaffinities and commonalities than ever before.In o<strong>the</strong>r words, nationality alone can no longer open doorsin <strong>the</strong> art world. In 2001, José Kuri, owner of renowned kurimanzuttoGallery, said that <strong>the</strong> dialogue <strong>Mexican</strong> art had struckup beyond <strong>the</strong> country’s borders in <strong>the</strong> past now takes place ona more equal footing. “If we recall <strong>the</strong> 80s,” he said, “it was a timewhen a much more ‘folkloric’ art suddenly experienced a boom,art that perhaps trivialized <strong>Mexican</strong> issues that were easier forforeigners to digest. Now it’s a much more leveled dialogue.”In <strong>the</strong> 90s, <strong>Mexican</strong> art made <strong>the</strong> leap from being perceivedas peripheral –through <strong>the</strong> lens of o<strong>the</strong>rness and exoticism– toa fully fleshed member of <strong>the</strong> international community. Thischange was to have a permanent impact on <strong>the</strong> production andcirculation of <strong>Mexican</strong> art and can be attributed not only to artistsand curators but also, to gallery owners.“Mexico was late to embrace galleries but it is exciting to seehow much <strong>the</strong>y have grown in such a short space of time,” said<strong>the</strong>n ARCO (Feria Internacional de ARte COntemporáneo, AR-COmadrid) director Rosina Gómez-Baeza in 2005. And she wasright. Mexico has regained ground in <strong>the</strong> race to move art, to <strong>the</strong>extent that galleries are increasingly concerned with improving<strong>the</strong>ir visibility and that of <strong>the</strong> artists <strong>the</strong>y represent on <strong>the</strong> internationalarena.Whereas more established galleries in o<strong>the</strong>r countries haveopted to open branches in major cities worldwide –take Gagosian,for instance, which has galleries in New York, Los Angeles,London, Rome, Paris, Genoa, Hong Kong and A<strong>the</strong>ns– in Mexico,it is a whole different story.Bar a few noteworthy exceptions like Hilario Galguera, whoran a gallery in Leipzig for two years and plans to open one inBerlin in 2012, most <strong>Mexican</strong> galleries don’t have established exhibitionspace and offices abroad. Coincidentally, Galguera representsand houses Damian Hirst’s show-stopping exhibitions inMexico City. So how have <strong>the</strong>y managed to get that much-covetedinternational exposure? The answer is: by having an activerole in fairs and biennials.According to <strong>the</strong> Cuban art critic and curator Gerardo Mosquera,<strong>the</strong>re must be some 200 biennials and established artisticevents taking place worldwide – a figure that reveals <strong>the</strong> dramaticincrease in international circuits for <strong>the</strong> promotion andsale of art. In recent years, Mexico has been making a concertedeffort to get a firm foothold in <strong>the</strong>se circuits.As far as art fairs go, ARCOmadrid’s 2005 edition deserves amention. Mexico was <strong>the</strong> guest of honor during that year, whichset a precedent, not because <strong>Mexican</strong> galleries had never participatedin fairs or biennials before –indeed, many had takenpart in ARCO in previous years– but because it was <strong>the</strong> firstArt Baselstand of galería omr in art basel 2010


60 Negocios i The Lifestyle photo Archivetime <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mexican</strong> government and public institutions had lent<strong>the</strong>ir support.Mexico’s cultural authorities –CONACULTA (National Councilfor Culture and <strong>the</strong> Arts), INBA (National Institute of Fine Arts)and <strong>the</strong> Ministry of Foreign Affairs (SRE according to its Spanishacronym)– joined forces in support of <strong>the</strong> invitation extended byARCOmadrid, with more than satisfactory results. Spanish, <strong>Mexican</strong>and foreign collectors saw and bought oeuvre by <strong>Mexican</strong>artists, as did several Spanish museums and institutions.Galería Quetzalli, which participated with work by JesúsLugo, Francisco Toledo and Guillermo Olguín, sold over half <strong>the</strong>pieces it exhibited. The ARCOmadrid foundation purchasedworks by Mauricio Alejo and Damián Ortega; <strong>the</strong> MálagaCouncil bought works by Carlos Miranda; <strong>the</strong> Galician ContemporaryArt Center acquired drawings by Gabriel de la Moraand photographs by Daniel Lara; <strong>the</strong> Contemporary Art Museumof Castile and León went home with a silk screen print byCarlos Amorales and a piece by Dr. Lakra; Rufino Tamayo’s Dospersonajes sold for 55,000 euros and Diego Rivera’s Les vasescommunicants fetched 3,000 euros.<strong>Mexican</strong> galleries aim to increase <strong>the</strong>ir presence at eventslike <strong>the</strong>se. The most popular ones on <strong>the</strong>ir calendar are Miami’sArt Basel, Pulse and Scope, along with two Latin newcomersthat are going from strength to strength: ArtBo (Bogotá, Colombia)and ArteBA (Buenos Aires, Argentina).Gallery owners take all <strong>the</strong> risk and while <strong>the</strong> cost of participatingin events like <strong>the</strong>se can sometimes exceed sales commissions,attending a fair is generally good for business since ittranslates into international exposure for <strong>the</strong> gallery and <strong>the</strong>artists it represents, not to mention <strong>the</strong> chance to be part of majorpublic and private collections.Every year, <strong>Mexican</strong> galleries of all sizes and areas of specializationcan be seen at major art fairs. At <strong>the</strong> last edition of ArtBasel, big names such as kurimanzutto and OMR participatedalongside much younger galleries such as Proyectos Monclovaand Labor, illustrating that <strong>the</strong> playing field is relatively even.Since 2004, Mexico has been hosting its very own contemporaryart fair. Figures for <strong>the</strong> last edition of Zona Maco were extremelypromising: during <strong>the</strong> five days of <strong>the</strong> event, 31,000 peoplevisited a 10,000-square-meter exhibition center to see some1,000 artists represented by over 110 galleries from 20 countries.The hope is Zona Maco will continue to showcase <strong>the</strong> bestof contemporary art for many springs to come. Having a fair inyour own backyard is an unprecedented opportunity for Mexico’sgalleries -not only does it slash costs by doing away with<strong>the</strong> need to transport work to ano<strong>the</strong>r country or continent, butit also constitutes a long-awaited platform from which <strong>Mexican</strong>art can take <strong>the</strong> plunge into international waters. It is no coincidence,<strong>the</strong>n, that in recent years <strong>Mexican</strong> art has been makingbigger waves abroad than ever before. ngalería kurimanzutto. photo Michel zabé (courtesy of kurimanzutto)


Art contemporary art galleries<strong>Mexican</strong> GalleriesWithout BordersGALERÍA DE ARTE MEXICANOA pioneering force in its field, Galería de Arte<strong>Mexican</strong>o was founded in 1935 by Inés Amor.Artists of <strong>the</strong> stature of Diego Rivera, JoséClemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, RufinoTamayo and Frida Kahlo have graced its walls.Today, under <strong>the</strong> management of AlejandraR. de Yturbe and Mariana Pérez Amor, itrepresents key 20th-century artists like CarlosMérida, Gun<strong>the</strong>r Gerzso and Gerardo Suter, aswell as younger ones like Edgar Orlaineta, whoare already making names for <strong>the</strong>mselves.www.galeriadeartemexicano.comKURIMANZUTTOFounded in 1999 by José Kuri, Mónica Manzuttoand Gabriel Orozco, for almost ten years <strong>the</strong>kurimanzutto gallery led a nomadic existence.The fact that it didn’t have a fixed exhibitionspace became its signature mark until 2008,when it settled down in <strong>the</strong> San MiguelChapultepec district of Mexico City, motivatedby <strong>the</strong> need to concentrate its work and set up abase for its artists in Mexico. Many of <strong>the</strong> artistsit represents are internationally renowned,like Gabriel Orozco, Damián Ortega, CarlosAmorales, Abraham Cruzvillegas and Dr. Lakra,to name just a few.www.kurimanzutto.comLUIS ADELANTADO MEXICOA gallery owner from Valencia, Luis Adelantadohas forged strong ties in <strong>Mexican</strong> art circles,having participated in MACO for severalyears running. In late 2009, he decided toopen a gallery of his own in Mexico. His is acosmopolitan brood, featuring names likeSophie Calle, Oscar Carrasco, Marcos Castro,Folkert de Jong, Fendry Ekel, Jason Mena,Oswaldo Ruiz and Darío Villalba, among o<strong>the</strong>rs.www.luisadelantadomexico.comHILARIO GALGUERAThe Hilario Galguera gallery opened in 2006 toa media hungry to see <strong>the</strong> work of Damien Hirst.In addition to this acclaimed British artist, <strong>the</strong>gallery represents Daniel Buren, Sante D’Orazio,Daniel Lezama, Bosco Sodi, Benjamín Torresand Mauricio Limón, among o<strong>the</strong>rs.www.galeriahilariogalguera.comOMROMR has been influencing <strong>the</strong> art scene inMexico for <strong>the</strong> last quarter century. Foundedby Patricia Ortiz Monasterio and Jaime Riestra,some of its more well-known artists includeRafael Lozano Hemmer, Iñaki Bonillas, Gabrielde la Mora and Jorge Mendez Blake. El 52, aproject space dedicated to <strong>the</strong> work of emergingartists, was opened in 2009.www.galeriaomr.com


62 Negocios i The Lifestyle photo christian fausto bernalMexico’sMarkets, AGastronomicOdysseyA tour of Mexico’s colorful markets is <strong>the</strong> best way to get a feel for aculture that is synonymous with good food.by sandra roblagui“I traveled it for years on end, from onemarket to <strong>the</strong> next. Because <strong>the</strong> essenceof Mexico is in its markets,” wrote <strong>the</strong>Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. Withouta doubt, one of <strong>the</strong> best ways to get afeel for Mexico is through its cuisine and, asNeruda suggests, <strong>the</strong> most au<strong>the</strong>ntic <strong>Mexican</strong>food is often found at local markets.Diana Kennedy, <strong>the</strong> famous English chefwho has spent <strong>the</strong> last 50 years rescuingtraditional <strong>Mexican</strong> recipes from oblivion, hassaid that one of her sources of inspiration are<strong>the</strong> small, unpretentious restaurants foundamid <strong>the</strong> fruit and vegetable stalls of Mexico’smarkets. It was at <strong>the</strong> Chilapa market inGuerrero that she got her first taste of greenpozole, a dish she will never forget.Just as Chilapa wouldn’t be <strong>the</strong> samewithout its green pozole, Oaxaca would beinconceivable without <strong>the</strong> smell of tasajo (dryroastedbeef) that lures you into its markets.And just as life in Tlaquepaque revolvesaround its municipal market, you can’t claim tohave been to Guanajuato if you haven’t visited<strong>the</strong> old Hidalgo market.<strong>Mexican</strong>s are accustomed to eat at <strong>the</strong>irlocal market, elbow to elbow with completestrangers. It’s hard to know exactly when <strong>the</strong>tradition began but it probably dates backto before <strong>the</strong> Conquest. “In pre-HispanicMexico, <strong>the</strong> exchange of goods and services ina fixed place, mainly by a system of bartering,was already common practice when <strong>the</strong>Spanish arrived,” writes Liliana Hernández,a researcher at Guadalajara’s WesternTechnological and Higher Education Institute(ITESO, according to its Spanish acronym).But you don’t need a history lesson to enjoya tasty meal at a <strong>Mexican</strong> market, just <strong>the</strong> urgeto sample everyday <strong>Mexican</strong> food made withfresh, locally produced ingredients; <strong>the</strong> kindof food eaten in homes across <strong>the</strong> region butthat may seem exotic to foreigners or even<strong>Mexican</strong>s from o<strong>the</strong>r parts of <strong>the</strong> country.“What do you recommend I try at <strong>the</strong>Juárez de Villahermosa market in Tabasco?” Iasked a local doctor. “Iguana soup,” he instantlyreplied, a look of ecstasy flashing across hisface. Some might find <strong>the</strong> idea of eating iguanarepugnant, while o<strong>the</strong>rs view <strong>the</strong> succulentflesh of this reptile as a delicacy fit for a king.


64 Negocios i The Lifestylephoto clara maría inéscentral Mexico is perhaps <strong>the</strong> richest in flavors and <strong>the</strong> area in and around Puebla –a city thattakes <strong>the</strong> same name as <strong>the</strong> state it is <strong>the</strong> capital of– is a wonderful exponent of regional cuisine.nogada at ei<strong>the</strong>r of <strong>the</strong>se markets. Off season,we recommend <strong>the</strong> cemitas, huazontles (a herbknown as goosefoot, similar to basil) covered inegg batter, filled with cheese and smo<strong>the</strong>redin salsa, molotes (corn-dough pasties with avariety of fillings), corn smut quesadillas andchalupas (corn tortillas ba<strong>the</strong>d in salsa andtopped with shredded meat).In Cholula, a city seven kilometers or sofrom Puebla, <strong>the</strong> Cosme del Razo market(Calle 2 Poniente, no number) is home to LaVioleta and Tere, two food stalls with decadesof experience and a battery of recipes handeddown from generation to generation. Here youcan tuck into mole, a complex sauce made ofchocolate and an elaborate mixture of o<strong>the</strong>ringredients, poblano chili peppers stuffedwith cheese, potato patties and gorditas (acorn-dough base topped with dried beans andground avocado leaves).South of Puebla is <strong>the</strong> state of Oaxaca,where a visit to <strong>the</strong> Juárez (Tinoco 205, HistoricCenter) and 20 de Noviembre (between 20 deNoviembre and Miguel Cabrera, downtownOaxaca) markets of <strong>the</strong> state capital ismandatory.The specialty at both is black mole, asweeter take on <strong>the</strong> poblano variety, perhapsbecause <strong>the</strong>y’re fonder of <strong>the</strong>ir chocolate here.In Oaxaca, chocolate is eaten with chicken ormeat in <strong>the</strong> form of mole and drunk with milkor water, accompanied with pan de yema, arich, sugar coated bread made of egg yolks.Equally tasty are <strong>the</strong> tamales, wrappedin banana leaves and served with blackbeans, and <strong>the</strong> tlayudas, crispy, wafer thincorn tortillas that resemble pizzas, except <strong>the</strong>tomato sauce has been replaced with a bed ofmashed black beans and avocado leaves andmelted cheese has been substituted with adelicious curd cheese. Tlayudas are typicallyserved with slices of avocado, meat marinatedin red salsa or a juicy steak. But if you’re nota fan of red meat, <strong>the</strong> grasshopper variety is atasty alternative sold at nearly every marketstall, along with fresh fruit juices, which arecentury-old traditions.Traveling south from Oaxaca is <strong>the</strong> city ofComitán de Domínguez, Chiapas, almost on <strong>the</strong>border with Guatemala. Here, <strong>the</strong> markets of1 o de Mayo (Central Benito Juárez, no number,Center) and Central de Abastos (Calle 11A, SurPoniente in <strong>the</strong> La Pileta district) open <strong>the</strong>irdoors at <strong>the</strong> break of dawn, inviting you to sample<strong>the</strong> pre-Hispanic and mestizo cuisine of Chamula–atole de granillo (a hot beverage made of finelydiced corn) and jocoatol (a tart bean version oftraditional atole) and rice pudding.In and around <strong>the</strong>se markets are standsselling chinculhuaje, corn gorditas filled withmashed black beans, pozol, a refreshing cocoaand corn drink, and tzim, flying ants grilled ona hotplate that have all <strong>the</strong> flavor of charcoalgrilled beef but without cholesterol. Comesundown, ask a local to help you navigate<strong>the</strong> area around <strong>the</strong> 1 o de Mayo market for<strong>the</strong> best tamales ever –chipilín (a perenniallegume), momón (an aromatic herb) and pitaúl(beans mixed with corn dough and choppedcoriander).You could write a book on Mexico’smarkets and <strong>the</strong> food <strong>the</strong>y serve but wordsfall short when it comes to describing recipesthat have survived war and revolution. PabloNeruda was right when he said: “The essenceof Mexico is in its markets.” Except he shouldhave added: “And <strong>the</strong> myriad of dishes <strong>the</strong>yserve.” n

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