By Ginny Hill • GWRRA #265220-01 • Tucson,ArizonaFree at last and blowing <strong>to</strong>wn.The warm sun shone on our faces, the playful wind caressed our backsand soothed jangled nerves from the hectic week. Sprung from traditional cage travel, no mass <strong>of</strong> steeland glass hindered our <strong>view</strong> <strong>of</strong> the southwestern Arizona desert.We buzzed along the route <strong>to</strong> L.A. thatI used <strong>to</strong> call boring, on our hot-rod yellow Gold <strong>Wing</strong>. Comfort and performance <strong>to</strong> the max!think, darlin’, we’resoon <strong>to</strong> be grandparents.”“JustIt’s not a good idea <strong>to</strong> startlethe pilot, so I whispered in<strong>to</strong>my helmet microphone. “I’m soexcited—can’t wait <strong>to</strong> see howcute Jo looks eight months pregnant.Don’t we have a lot <strong>to</strong> bethankful for this Thanksgiving? Lifeis transforming for all <strong>of</strong> us.”Smiley, my husband and bestfriend, reached back and pattedmy knee with his gloved hand. Hepeeled <strong>of</strong>f I-10 at Casa Grande<strong>to</strong>ward Gila Bend on I-8 <strong>to</strong> avoidPhoenix holiday traffic. We travelednorth on out-<strong>of</strong>-the-way Hwy85 <strong>to</strong> Buckeye and then rejoined I-10 <strong>to</strong>ward L.A.“Hey, you’re not going <strong>to</strong> be myMo<strong>to</strong>rcycle Mama anymore—soon <strong>to</strong> be my Mo<strong>to</strong>rcycleGrandma.” He chuckled.“That’ll take some getting used <strong>to</strong>…”We s<strong>to</strong>pped in Blythe for the night, tiredbut not ‘bleached’. I popped my tight-fittinghelmet, skull cap and gloves <strong>of</strong>f the instant thebike came <strong>to</strong> a s<strong>to</strong>p at the motel and scratchedmy head vigorously. The heavy, yellow jacketwith protective armor came <strong>of</strong>f next.The next morning, refreshed, I dressed insilk underwear, jeans, shirt, boots and jacket.Order <strong>of</strong> assembly is very important! My woolneck scarf, leather chaps, and extra-heavygloves came next and were going <strong>to</strong> feel goodthat morning. Helmets and gloves tuckedunder our arms, we headed out the door.I’m always delighted with my engineer husband’sskill at packing an incredible amount <strong>of</strong>stuff in<strong>to</strong> the <strong>Wing</strong>’s small saddlebags and compartments.Slow and sleepy mornings, however,tend <strong>to</strong> throw our sequences out <strong>of</strong> order.“Hey darlin’, where’s my lip gloss and sunscreen?”“It’s packed!”He pointed at the bot<strong>to</strong>m <strong>of</strong> the overfullsaddlebag and gave me the ‘don’t even thinkabout it’ look.“Hmmm, I suppose you would just as soonI pick some up at a rest s<strong>to</strong>p down the road a-ways?”“Ya think?”“Hey, works for me. By theway, thanks for the great packingjob.”He grinned.We flew along the freeway asfreely as the hawks that soaredabove us, leaning in<strong>to</strong> the turns,enjoying the 360-degree <strong>view</strong>, andluxuriating in the freedom andpower <strong>to</strong> go as far as our heartsdesired. People <strong>of</strong>ten ask me if Iride my own bike. My answer isalways the same. How can I revelin the amber sunset shadows ondarkening hills, imagine shapes inwhite, fluffy clouds, or backseatdrive if I’m the pilot? No, co-rideris the place for me.A couple hours in<strong>to</strong> the morning’sride, my let’s-get-<strong>to</strong>-our-destination-in-a-hurry-husbandpulled <strong>of</strong>f theinterstate for a rest s<strong>to</strong>p.“They probably have lip gloss here,” he said.“You’re awesome!” I impulsively tried <strong>to</strong>kiss him on the cheek, but bounced <strong>of</strong>f whenour helmet face shields clanked <strong>to</strong>gether. “It’samazing how <strong>of</strong>ten we take breaks on thebike—just you and me on a carefree adventurewith all the time in the world.” My arms barelyreached around his padded jacket as Ihugged him.“We’re gonna lose position, ya know, Iworked hard <strong>to</strong> pass all those cars.”Back on the road, my pilot focused on re-52 <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong>
gaining our position. The muffled purr <strong>of</strong> themo<strong>to</strong>r through my full-face helmet and radiantafternoon sun made me drowsy. I struggled <strong>to</strong>keep my eyes open, startled awake when myhead nodded forward with a jerk. “Talk <strong>to</strong> meLove, I’m fallin’ asleep back here.”Not soon enough our joyous mother-<strong>to</strong>-beflung the door open—we saw plastic bins filledwith baby-boy clothes and <strong>to</strong>ys stacked everywherearound the living room. I hugged Jo andbaby—my arms barely reached around.“You’rebeautiful!”The proud grandpa-<strong>to</strong>-be finally got histurn and wrapped his baby in a bear-hug.Show and tell began right after dinner—the6’4” father-<strong>to</strong>-be palmed his favorite baby hat,dwarfed in his large hand.White teeth glintingin his red beard, he patted Jo’s tummy. “Hurryup and get out—how can I play with you inthere?”Smiley’s blue eyes met mine across theroom and my heart burst.After so many years<strong>to</strong>gether we watched our kids transformingin<strong>to</strong> parents in front <strong>of</strong> our eyes.The kids began dinner preparations but discoveredwe lacked just one thing. Pumpkin pie!The mother-<strong>to</strong>-be couldn’t live without pumpkinpie.And whipped cream.“Come on mom, let’s go.” She grabbed herpurse and the pumpkin-pie-shopping-teamlaunched out the door. We searched everyopen s<strong>to</strong>re within five miles until we scored.We marched through the front door giggling.“Taadumm! Now we can haveThanksgiving dinner.”I sipped a glass <strong>of</strong> fine wine and put my feetup while the kids prepared our feast. Afterdevouring the elegant dinner, I volunteered thegrandparent team for dish duty—the cookscollapsed on<strong>to</strong> their chairs.Thirty-six hours later and way <strong>to</strong>o soon,we mounted our trusty steed for home. Wepassed out hugs like candy and left <strong>to</strong>wn early<strong>to</strong> beat the post-holiday shoppers on<strong>to</strong> the LAfreeway.The ghostly fog chilled us <strong>to</strong> the bone.“My teeth are chattering even though I’mstuffed in<strong>to</strong> so many layers <strong>of</strong> clothes I feel likean abominable snowman,” I said.The wind chillfac<strong>to</strong>r on such a cold, wet morning made meyearn for a warm cage <strong>to</strong> ride in.“Let’s buy some heated clothes before ournext trip,” he said. “Here, let’s take Hwy 111along the east side <strong>of</strong> the Sal<strong>to</strong>n Sea—it hasbetter twisties.” His silky, deep voice flowedover the intercom system as he stretched hisfeet out <strong>to</strong> rest on the highway pegs.We sailedaround the turn and headed south on 111.I cuddled up close <strong>to</strong> Smiley’s back. “I’mglad you’re finally relaxing—you were woundway-<strong>to</strong>o-tight as we left home.”“What a visit—they’re gonna make greatparents,” he said. “And I’m glad it’s their turnfor dirty diapers and sleepless nights—it’s ourturn for the freedom <strong>of</strong> an empty nest.”We chatted the miles away—conversationsalways a precious highlight <strong>of</strong> road trips.“Hey, remember the west side <strong>of</strong> theSal<strong>to</strong>n Sea we explored last year?” my husbandasked.“Do I!”I visualized the abandoned world we discoveredon that ride—the lonely wind, crustacean-shellsand dunes and seagulls <strong>of</strong>feredthe only visible life forms on that side <strong>of</strong> thesea.We looked over our shoulders every fewminutes and expected alien creatures from aB-rated Sci-fi <strong>to</strong> step out from behind thecrumbling shoreline homes rooted in severalfeet <strong>of</strong> salt water. Salt crystals clung <strong>to</strong> thedecaying structures. That resort once bustledwith activity and now was molded in silence inthe aftermath <strong>of</strong> two 100-year tropicals<strong>to</strong>rms—Kathleen in 1976 and Doreen in1977. We peered through glass-less windowframes at the forsaken rusty refrigera<strong>to</strong>rs ands<strong>to</strong>ves.The memories gave me goose bumps.What adventure awaited us this year?We lowered our speed and cruised in<strong>to</strong> aghost <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>of</strong> a day area.The ‘sand’ crunchedunder our boots, and pelicans dipped in<strong>to</strong> thesalty sea feasting on the abundant fish.“Look here.” Smiley walked <strong>to</strong> the Sal<strong>to</strong>nSea shoreline and waved me over.“Nothin’ butthousands <strong>of</strong> dead, stinky fish everywhere youlook.”“Their little tails stick straight up.” I wrinkledmy nose as I tip<strong>to</strong>ed up beside him in anattempt <strong>to</strong> avoid stepping on the dead fish.“Hundreds more are washing up in thewaves.”We ran in<strong>to</strong> a local expert on the beachand he explained the eerie phenomena.“The Tilapia, the most common fish in theSal<strong>to</strong>n Sea, is really sensitive <strong>to</strong> low temperaturesand low oxygen levels,” he said. “In thewinter, when the temperatures in the Sea fall,a lot <strong>of</strong> fish may die <strong>of</strong>f.Then in the summertime,the algae blooms die and use up a lot <strong>of</strong>the oxygen in the water—and the fish die <strong>of</strong>fonce again.”Smiley let out a long, low whistle.Our new friend rambled on. “The Sal<strong>to</strong>nSea’s salinity level is 25% more than the PacificOcean. Most people don’t know this, but theColorado River feeds the Sea and it brings inabout a trainload <strong>of</strong> salt every day.There’s nooutlet, so as the water evaporates it leaves thesalt behind.The salt accumulates, kills the fish,plus the birds that eat them. It’s necessary <strong>to</strong>August 2008 53
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