CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF WHERE - Where Milan

CONTAINSA COMPLETE MAPOF THE CITYEDITORS’ CHOICESwheretraveler.comTRUFFLE TIMEENDORSED BYTAX FREEDECEMBER 2010CONTAINSA COMPLETE MAPOF THE CITYEDITORS’ CHOICESABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENTwheretraveler.comENDORSED BYMilanJANUARY 2011THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ® ®NOVEMBER 2010THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®Milan®MilanTHE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ® ®FASHIONCITYEvery placein the fashion capitalcarries a designersignatureTIMELESSTRADITIONSSTING+THE REAL DA VINCI CODEOVER 700 ADDRESSESABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENTOVER 700 ADDRESSES+ JANUARY IN MILAN SHOPPING + JANUARY IN MILAN DINING + JANUARY IN MILAN ENTERTAINMENT + JANUARY IN MILAN EVENTSCELEBRATING75 YEARSOF WHERE

TAX FREEDECEMBER 2010CONTAINSA COMPLETE MAPOF THE CITYABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENTENDORSED BYCONTAINSA COMPLETE MAPOF THE CITYTRUFFLE TIMEENDORSED BYMilan January 2011the guide22 SHOPPINGBoutiques & Passion Shops ListingsMajor shopping areas and our choice of thebest speciality stores40 DININGDining ListingsListings by type of cuisine61936. Milan, piazza Cordusio (Map F5)50 ENTERTAINMENTEntertainment & Nightlife ListingsThe latest information about how to enjoyyour stay in Milan56 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONSMuseums & Attractions ListingsMajor sightseeing attractions plus museumsand events60 ESSENTIALSTransport and useful informationTips for getting around and about in the citywhere now6 Yesterday, Today, and TomorrowMilan 75 years ago? A trip that explores both the past and the near future10 People and NewsA round-up of our favourite choices12 Tips from FriendsInsider news from Milanese in the know14 ArtsMilan hosts Islamic Art and anticipates “fruit faces” by Arcimboldo16 EntertainmentWelcome in 2011with Jazz, Dance, Sport, and Fashion18 WellnessNew Year resolutions for healthy living... even in just 75 minutes!20 Where NextExploring Milan and surrounding areas62 MAPCentral Milan mapALSO INSIDE02 A Note from the Editor03 A Note from the Mayor04 Hot Dates64 10 Things We LoveON THE COVERAn amalgamfeaturing75 yearsof Where ®publicationsTHE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ® ®TIMELESSTRADITIONSEDITORS’ CHOICESOVER 700 ADDRESSESCONNECT WITH US ONLINEMilanwheretraveler.comNOVEMBER 2010THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®FASHIONCITYEvery placein the fashion capitalcarries a designersignatureEDITORS’ CHOICESwheretraveler.comSTING+THE REAL DA VINCI CODEOVER 700 ADDRESSESABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENTMilan®wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz online from our local editors.SUBSCRIBE TO WHEREMILAN NEWSLETTER atwww.wheremilan.com: your free update on Milan!www.wheretraveler.com 1

Welcome A Note from the EditorWe’re 75 Years Young!January has always been a time forlooking forward and planning thoseNew Year resolutions. But pleaseforgive us for looking back as well,because January also happens to beWhere Magazine’s 75th birthday.Since 1936, and in 90 cities acrossthe world (expanding, it seems, ona monthly basis: Merhaba Istanbul!),our editors have been busy helpingvisitors make the most of their stay. And from Hong Kong to Moscowand Rome to New York, Where remains the name that 250 million ofyou trust each year.Celebrating 75 years of Where ®The Leader in Travel PublishingWhere Milan • Concierge of the YearAnyway enough of thepast. If you hadn¹t noticed,it’s cold outside so in thisissue we thought we’d findsome of the best ways tobeat those January chills.From cosy traditional barsand intimate concertvenues to the dazzlingskyscrapers of Porta Nuova,we show you how to findthe warmest welcome!Happy New Year andhere’s to another 75 ofthem!CHRIS JOHNSON** Managing Editor, Where London.The London Edition is the oldest in EuropeOn its 75th anniversary Where Magazine decided to create aMilan Concierge Award. Every person working in the Milan areaHotel Reception is the potential Where Concierge of the Year.The Milan Hotel guests (beginning with you, our reader) willdetermine with their vote the first Concierge of the Year.Go on www.wheremilan.com and vote. More info on the site.YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®where®MAGAZINEWHERE MILANpublished by:WHERE ITALIA SRLVia Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015info@wheremilan.comwww.wheremilan.comPUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEFAndrea Jarachandrea.jarach@wheremilan.comEDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL)MANAGING DIRECTOR PROEDI COMUNICAZIONEDaniele MisrachiEDITORIAL COORDINATIONAlessandra FinziMANAGING EDITORElena BindaMAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFFCarey Bernitz, Patrizia Masnini, Roberta PatrunoWEB EDITORIAL STAFFElena Peverata (www.wheretraveler.com),Alessia Genovese (www.wheremilan.com)DESIGNERElisabetta GiudiciCONTRIBUTORS & CONSULTANTSValentina Bonelli, Sabrina Ciccolo, Maria Grazia Gargioni,Francesca De Ponti, Moses Fibonacci, Marco Gatti(Dining), Andrea Host-Ivessich (Lifestyle), Joy Lacanlale,Eleonora Manzi, Andrea Milanesi (Entertainment),Carol Oberman, Susanna Ricci, David Ross (Hotelerie)MARKETING, ADVERTISING & HOTEL PR SERVICESIsa Faleschini, Maria Granata, Stefania Guttuso,Marta Mailhac, Brian Norsa, Rachele RennaADMINISTRATIONKatia GretoPRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,SALES SUPPORT COORDINATORPaola GrilliREG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACHPRINTED BY CROMOGRAFICA EUROPEA, RHO (MILANO)WHERE MILAN È DISTRIBUITO GRATUITAMENTE NEI PRINCIPALI HOTELE IN ALCUNE LOCALITÀ SELEZIONATEWhere® is also published in Rome by:Tourist Media srlMORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONSMVP EXECUTIVECHAIRMAN & CEOWilliam S. Morris IIIPRESIDENTWilliam S. Morris IVMANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPEChris ManningWhere® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of theinformation it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for anyconsequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved.Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications,a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LLC, 725 Broad St.,Augusta, GA 30901.WHERE MILAN supportsPublished in association withMVPMorris Visitor PublicationsWhere® magazine and the where® logo are registeredtrademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.ENDORSED BY2 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

A Note from the MayorWhere? These days in Milan, there’s one answer to that question: at the newMuseo del Novecento (Museum of 20th Century Art) in Palazzo dell’Arengario, next tothe Duomo: undoubtedly one of Milan’s most beautiful and striking places. It alone isworth a visit to Milan.Where? An innovative interior of contemporary design, housed in an exteriordating back to the 1930s, which also has been refurbished and improved.Where? Past and future, tradition and avant-garde: all coexist in a surprisingmuseum that we decided to open to the public free of charge.Its innovative features are noticeable even at a distance, with the neon sculptureby Lucio Fontana and the large spiral staircase rising up from the Metro to the highestfloor of the building.Museo del Novecento represents an investment of 30 million Euros to give Milan and the world an enchantingvenue for 400 masterpieces from the Civic Collections of Milan - from the Quarto Stato (“Fourth State”) by Pellizzada Volpedo to the futurist works by Boccioni, Balla, Depero, Carrà, and Severini, to early contemporary art.During the first week of its inauguration, more than fifty thousand people visited the museum: a record thatconfirms Milan’s role as a capital of culture and, increasingly, an international tourism in search of business, art,fashion, and design. Last year Milan registered a 7 percent increase in tourism, demonstrating a trend that countersthe national average.Milan boasts a distinguished artistic heritage. The Arengario is the new flagship of an extraordinary museum systemwhose symbolic synthesis lies in the museum’s proximity to Palazzo Reale, the Duomo, and the Duomo’s museum.The opening of the fully renovated Archaeological Museum will be another important achievement over thenext few months.From ancient art to contemporary art: in addition to its charm and beauty, Milan continues to offer the world anincreasing number of cultural opportunities.Best regardsBreaking NewsRecord visitor attendanceat the newly inaguratedMuseo del Novecento– LETIZIA MORATTIMayor of MilanPHOTO © DE LUNAJust before the January issue of Where went to press, Massimiliano FinazzerFlory, city councillor for culture, announced that the Museo del Novecento hadregistered record visitor attendance, exceeding the expected 100,000 visitortarget mark in just 13 days. The Museo is the latest addition to Milan’s fabulouscollection of museums. The editorial staff of this 75th anniversary issue ofWhere Magazine is honored to wish the city of Milan a long series of successesfrom now on, until the Expo 2015 and beyond. Free admission until February 28.The windows of the Museo del Novecento overlookingpiazza Duomowww.wheretraveler.com 3

Hot Dates January 2011THIS MONTH IN MILANTHURSDAY 6LAST CALL FOR TITIAN Last day for art loversto see (and experience) Titian’s “Woman with aMirror”, an early 16th century masterpiece by thegreat Italian Renaissance painter lent, courtesy ofthe Louvre, to Milan. Palazzo Marino, Sala Alessi,Piazza della Scala, 2. Open daily 9.30am-7.30pm.www.comune.milano.it. T: 800 149617SATURDAY 15MILANO MODA UOMO From today until 18January, the fashion capital will be offering over100 shows dedicated to Men.THURSDAY 20JAMES TAYLOR AT BLUE NOTE From thisevening until Saturday 22 January, the JamesTaylor Quartet will give a double performanceat the Milanese temple of jazz in via Borsieri.Booking required.SUNDAY 30Antique Market on the NavigliOn the last Sunday of each month, the most important antiquefair in Milan is held against the evocative and trendy backdrop of theNavigli (M2 subway line Porta Genova FS, Map D7), running from thearea situated between the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese.The market lasts for the entire day and boasts more than 400 stallsselling furniture, time pieces, china, ethnic antiques, books, old radios,prints, cartoons, and objet d’art of all kinds. Even if you don’t want tobuy anything (and provided that you manage to resist) , the market is agreat excuse to visit one of the most vibrant areas in Milan (find out moreabout it in Where Next, p. 20) and a good place to do some VIP watching.SUNDAY 23First public screening of “Fratelli d’Italia?” (withenglish subtitles) a movie shot in the Milan CentralStation where jewish deportations took place. Themovie was produced in 2010 with descendantsof persecuted jews and actual witnesses of thedeportation at the now famous Binario 21 (Track21) where a memorial is under construction (www.binario21.org). The screening is organized by TheReformed Jewish Congregation, Beth Shalom(www.bethshalom.it). DVD, 90 minutes andextras available at www.proedieditore.itSunday 23 Jan - 8,30pm Teatro Litta, corsoMagenta 24 (Map D4). Free entrance.FRIDAY 21THE BEST OF BALLET This evening at Teatrodegli Arcimboldi, the Classic Ballet Compay willdelight classical ballet fans with a performance ofthe best “Grandi Pas des Deux” of all times.TUESDAY 25THE MAGIC MOMIX From this evening until 13February, Momix, the legendary contemporarydance company founded by Moses Pendleton,will be performing at Teatro Nuovo in San Babila.THURSDAY 27PREMIERE AT LA SCALA The premièreof “Histoire de Manon”, a ballet by KennethMacMillan starring Sylvie Guillem and MassimoMurru will be staged at 8pm against themagnificent backdrop of Teatro alla Scala. Inseveral of the February performances, the rolelead will be played by Roberto Bolle.THURSDAY 27MACEF OPENS The 90th International Homefair opens today at Fiera Milano.SUNDAY 30DALÍ DRAWS TO AN END Last day (unlessextended due to popular request) to see the“Approaching Dreams” exhibition, dedicated tothe genius of Surrealism, Salvador Dalí.SUNDAY 30DEPORTATION MEMORIAL Theremembrance of the deportation of MilaneseJews to Auschwitz (30 January 1944), at theCentral Station. You can visit the memorialplace in via Ferrante Aporti 3.www.santegidio.org. Map H1DON’T MISS VISITING WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM before leaving: every week something new in the city!4 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

where nowMilanThe month’s top entertainment, dining and arts»FOCUSYesterday, Today,and TomorrowWhen Where made its debut in the U.S.,seventy five years ago, Milan was a vibrantcity. Several of its former landmark featuresstill exist today: historic workshops, barsand even people who were either veryyoung or who had just been born, weredestined to leave their mark. As Milanprepares for Expo 2015 Where takes youon a trip that explores both the past andthe near future.6 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

PORTA NUOVA:the towers will haveprogressive heightsof 75, 110, and 145metres. The circularpiazza will measure100 metresin diameter.PHOTO © CIVICO ARCHIVIO FOTOGRAFICO MILANO1936. Milan, via Orefici (Map F5)PHOTO © URBAN FILEIf in the past 75 years Milan haschanged considerably, overthe next five it promises torevolutionize its appearance.Amidst the enlargement of theunderground system and theconversion of its skyline, at thismoment in time, while preparingfor, Expo 2015, Milan is a tangle ofconstruction sites, accompaniedby the inevitable factions ofenthusiasts, skeptics and critics.Among the numerous projectsexciting is that by Argentinearchitect Cesar Pelli, destined tochange forever the Porta Nuovaarea near the Garibaldi RailwayStation and the ultra-trendyCorso Como (Map F1). The maincomplex will include three glasstowers and a piazza elevated sixmetres above street level in themiddle that will offer pedestriansan oasis of peace. A new park willconnect the complex to the Isoladistrict, to the M2 subway lineAre you interested inarchitecture? Do you enjoybrowsing among urbanprojects? If so, visitwww.urbanfile.net,a website (which thoughonly in Italian at themoment, has loads ofpictures) dedicated to thetransformation of the city.in the pipeline, one of the mostand to the new M5 line.www.wheretraveler.com 7

WHERE NOW MilanOur Lady of DanceMILANO IN75 MINUTESCity CentreIn Italy it is considered extremely impolite to ask a woman’sage. However, in order to pay tribute to the lady in question, wehave to make an exception: in 2011, Carla Fracci, former primaballerina (and a living symbol) of the Teatro alla Scala Corps deBallet will celebrate her 75th birthday. Hers is the fairytale ofa thoroughbred Milanese, the daughter of a tram driver who,thanks to an unequivocal talent, became the youngest soloiston one of the world’s most prestigious stages. Associated withseveral of the world’s most romantic roles (from “Juliet to Giselle”,from “La Sylphide” to “Francesca da Rimini”), Carla Fracci hasdanced with the best partners of her generation (from RudolfNureyev to Vladimir Vasiliev, from Mikhail Baryshnikov to ErikBruhn) and collaborated with some of the most importantcompanies in the word (from the London Festival Ballet to theStuttgart Ballet, from the Royal Ballet of London to the RoyalSwedish Ballet in Stockholm, right up to the American BalletTheatre in New York). The history of classical ballet is linked bothto the Teatro alla Scala and, even before then, to that of Milanitself. This form of ballet originated in Italian Renaissance courts,notably in the Sforza family’s splendid palace in Milan.If you only have a little more than an hour to get anidea of the essence of the city, then start your tourfrom the Duomo (Map F5), one of the most amazingGothic cathedrals in Europe. After admiring it fromthe piazza, turn left and, amidst bars and boutiques,enter the stunningly elegant Galleria VittorioEmanuele II until you reach piazza della Scala.From here, continue along via Manzoni and thenturn right into via Montenapoleone: you will findyourselves in the Quadrilatero della Moda, the mostfamous (and luxurious) shopping district in the world(pages 24, 25, 26). When you’ve finished shopping,after a stroll through San Babila, get back onto corsoVittorio Emanuele II and return to the Duomo: thebest of Italian style, in just a few kilometres.The Fiat Topolino Hits the RoadOn 15 June 1936, a car destined to make history appeared in Milan. Called“Topolino” (the Italian name for Mickey Mouse), it featured the rounded,appealing lines of the “little mouse”. Designed by Dante Giacosa, the Topolinowas a small though complete vehicle, one of the most futuristic of its kind,built for two people with luggage and equipped with a 567 cc four-cylinderengine which enabled it to reach a speed of 80 km per hour. It cost just over5,000 lire, the equivalent, at that time, of a year’s salary of a blue-collar worker!Production totalled 100 cars a day and its success was immediate: the Topolinobecame a cultural phenomenon and heralded the birth of Post-War Italiandesign. To see more examples, visit the La Triennale Design Museum in vialeAlemagna (see The Guide – Museums & Attractions, p. 59).8 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

1936. A young Ottavio Missoniruns in the Arena of MilanRosita and Ottavio MissoniChampion (of Fashion)In 1936 the Olympics were staged in Berlin: Ondina Valla was the first Italianwoman to win an Olympic gold medal in the 80 metres hurdles event. In Milan,in the meantime, another promising athlete was also busy training. Despitewearing the colours of the national team, he was just a fraction too young toparticipate in the games. His name was Ottavio Missoni and he had to waituntil the 1948 Olympics for his big chance in London, where he distinguishedhimself in the 400 metres hurdles event. The Second World War robbed himof his best running years, preventing him from possibly becoming a realchampion, but he was not destined to remain anonymous. Today, throughoutthe world, his name is an International fashion brand, synonymous with colourand creativity. The Missoni Showroom is located in Milan in via Solferino 9 whilethe boutique is, naturally, found in via Montenapoleone (Map G4).SWEET MEMORIESSeventy five years of sweetness: thisis the mission of Sant’Ambroeusand Cucchi (see listings p. 49),Milanese pastry makers since1936. Today, the best pastries intown. Located in the heart of thecentre and established to serve LaScala theatre goers, Sant’Ambroeuscarries the name of the patronsaint of the city and, since its verybeginning, has offered homemadepastries and biscuits, chocolates andsavoury snacks. At the beginningof Corso Genova, we find Cucchi, ahistoric cosy tearoom. The perfectplace to enjoy a freshly bakeddelicacy or simply read a newspaper.Allow yourself to be tempted bythe winter ritual of drinking a cup ofhot chocolate.THE MOST ELEGANT QUINTET IN THE WORLD1936 was a crucial year for the history of Milanese sport. It marked the foundingof the city’s basketball team, Olimpia Milano, whose historic name wassubsequently enriched by those of its various sponsors, including fashiondesigner Giorgio Armani, who recently bought the team and restored it toits former glory. Now known as Armani Jeans Armani Olimpia Milano, theteam – sometimes referred to as “Scarpette Rosse” (Little Red Shoes) - has won25 Italian championships, 3 European Champions Cups, 4 Italian National Cups,1 Intercontinental Cup, 2 Korac cups and 3 Saporta Cups: all in 25 years. Five ofits most famous players are featured in the Basketball Hall of Fame and include:Bill Bradley, Sandro Gamba, Bob McAdoo, Dino Meneghin and Cesare Rubini.One of the best players ever signed was Mike D’Antoni, now coach of the NewYork Knicks. In 2008, the Knicks signed a contract with Danilo Gallinari, the 22year-old Italian player who joined the NBA straight from his hometown in Milan.The symbol of the Armani Jeans Olimpia team is a warrior set against a whitebackground holding a shieldfeaturing the Duomo. If youwant to attend an Olimpiamatch, ask your concierge toget you tickets. Rememberthat the team plays at thePalaForum in Assago or at thePalaLido. Ask your concierge.The InventionIn 2010 it was nominated “brand of the year”. In 1936, mountaineer,Vitale Bramani, the survivor of a mountaineering tragedy involving theloss of two of his climbing companions, had the idea of applying thetechnology developed by Pirelli for car tyres to shoe soles; the idea wasto make them safer, less slippery and better performing. The inventionbecame a patented brand (Vibram, from the initials of its inventor) andsubsequently a company that, from Albizzate near Varese, exports itsproducts to over 120 countries worldwide. 2005 saw the invention of“Fivefingers”, a shoe-glove designed to offer the same advantages aswalking barefoot. If you want to try this experience, the flagship store is invia Raffaello Sanzio (see listings p. 38).www.wheretraveler.com 9

WHERE NOW MilanFOCUSPeopleand NewsThis month we take thereaders of Where on anevent-filled trip featuringnot only the latestinaugurations but alsoseveral interesting factsabout the past. Whetherold or new, we hope thatour 75th anniversary tipswill enable you to enjoyMilanCAMPARI OVER75 YEARSRedpassionWhile the very first issue of Where Magazine was in the pressroom,in Milan, Fortunato Depero was busy dreaming up designs andideas to promote Campari, one of Italy’s most popular aperitivobrands. The now internationally renowned Campari red (whoseslogan Redpassion has become a buzzword) became a symbolof the revolutionary Italian artistic movement known as Futurismo.Now on display at the newly opened Museo del 900(piazza Duomo, Map F5). Don’t miss the Galleria Campari(see listing p. 58), a perfect example of industrial design whichsubsequently became the symbol of an era.A NEW BOUTIQUE, WHAT ELSE?There are now three Nespresso boutiquesin Milan. In addition to the ones foundin Galleria San Babila and via Verri, a sidestreet of via Montenapoleone (Map G4),a new sales outlet has just opened invia Belfiore (see photo, piazza Wagnerarea, Map B4) where customers canpurchase, discover, and taste the trendycoffee promoted by George Clooney(check the popular commercials at www.wheremilan.com). Though it goes withoutsaying, this new opening testifies to theunexpected success of the brand, evenin Italy, homeland to espresso. Its designis undoubtedly one of the factors thatcaptivated the Milanese public whom, aswe know, is extremely design-conscious.10 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

A “FUTURISTIC” CITY AIRPORTFew towns in the world can offer acity airport such as Linate. Just 5 kmfrom the city center it gives, in sunnydays, a super view of Milan and of thesurrounding Alps mountain range.75 years ago Linate was built and wasa symbol of italian supremacy in theair industry. The Futuristi developeda new strong art current centered inMilan that found in the aiplanes theperfect subjects example of power andstrenght. Today you can visit a widechoice of futuristic art in the brand newMuseo del Novecento (only a short runfrom Linate by taxy or by public bus 73 ) .IMAGINARY ARCHAEOLOGYSculptures, masks, and relics that give theimpression of just having been excavated byan archaeologist. Instead, they are the creationsmoulded by the hands of a sculptress whoplays with time. The most recent work by PaolaCrema, the eclectic artist, photographer, andgoldsmith are eloquently entitled “ImaginaryArchaeology”. The sculptress, an exhibitionof whose works was hosted for one year atPalazzo Pitti in Florence, has now found anideal backdrop for her imaginary excavationsat the Starhotels Grand Rosa in piazzaFontana 3 (Map G5). These bronze sculpturesand their photographic transposition, will beon display throughout January 2011.THE LARGEST BOOKSHOP IN MILANInaugurated in December at theStazione Centrale (M2 and M3subway lines), the brand newLa Feltrinelli bookstore offers a wideselection of British and Americanpaperbacks. It’s truly a paradise fortravelers in search of a wide rangeof reading matter. It’s also a “notto-be-missed”fusion of styles forarchitecture enthusiasts: visitorscan access the four floors of thisneoclassic building (an icon of Italiandesign in the 1930s) using either thestairs or the elevators provided. Ajewel of contemporary Italian designthat blends in perfectly with itssurroundings.EXPERIENCING THE CITYExperience neighbourhood life in a modern city and book online with thenew Town@house formula. Equipped with all the most cutting-edgetechnology, the first four residences, measuring from 35 to 50 square metres,at street level, were recently inaugurated in Milan in via Goldoni, 33. A newway of experiencing the city conceived by Alessandro Rosso, one of whoseaims was to redevelop areas using vacant shop fronts for a totally unique stayin the city. For more information visit www.townhousestreet.comTHE BEST BARBER IN TOWNA TRULY ARTISTIC EXPERIENCERosario Di Modica was born in Sicily seventy five years ago. Atage 16 he moved to Milan where he started his long career as a“barbiere”. Today, after 60 years in the business, he still continuesto open his shop situated in via Boccaccio, in front of stazioneCadorna (from which the Malpensa Express arrives and leaves),just a few hundred metres from “Leonardo’s Last Supper“.“Customers travel from all over Europe to have their hair cut byme,” a statement to which many a satisfied customer can testifybecause there is no doubt that Rosario is a great artist. Duringthe years of the economic boom, he worked first in Corso VittorioEmanuele, in the place where a Zara shop now stands and wherethe statue, known as “L’om de pedra” (the Stone Man), can stillbe seen (Map F5). There he catered to celebrities such as JimPitney, Charles Aznavour, maestro Danzi (author of one of Milan’smost famous songs “Oh mia bela madunina”) and LadislaoSugar (the legendary music publisher). Rosario lived in one of themost romantic places in the city, on the Alzaia Naviglio Grande,in front of Vicolo delle Lavandaie (p. 20), where the studios ofnumerous artists are still located. He feels that Milan has changedconsiderably in the intervening years and still misses the dayswhen he and his customers ate at Santa Lucia, a charming oldworldrestaurant, located in via San Pietro all’Orto on the corner ofcorso Vittorio Emanuele II which still exists today.www.wheretraveler.com 11

WHERE NOW MilanFOCUSTips fromFriendsEach month Milanesefriends of Where sharetheir favourite hauntswith our readers.Be sure to check outthis insider informationSanta Maria delle GrazieTeatro StrehlerFrom PupiSolari,a Legendof EleganceWe asked Pupi Solari,Pupi Solari boutiques.whose name has beenPiazza Tommaseo, 2. Map C4a legend of understatedMilanese elegance since 1969, when she established her first store, to suggest an itineraryfor a hypothetical tour of Milan by friends from abroad. Here are her suggestions.To begin the day, a visit to the Quadrilatero della Moda with a stop-over at the PalazzoMorando-Attendolo-Bolognini museum in via Sant’Andrea 6, which always hostsextremely interesting exhibitions. Now that it has opened, she wouldalso definitely suggest a visit to the Museo del Novecento at PalazzoArengario, one of the city’s newest assets.For lunch, “my suggestion is Buttero in via Montenapoleone, whereguests are welcomed by the Maccanti family, a husband, wife anddaughter team who are absolutely “adorable”. From the courtyard ofthe restaurant you can see the windows of Aspesi boutique – a famousItalian clothing brand – which I patronize on a regular basis.”“After this relaxing stopover, I would head to the refectory of the Churchof Santa Maria delle Grazie to see “Leonardo’s Last Supper”. Visitorsneed to book ahead for a guided tour, lasting 20 minutes, at set times. It’sadvisable to ask the concierge of their hotel to arrange this”.“In front of the church, in corso Magenta, one of my favourite haunts is the Libreria degliAtellani, specializing in art books but also offering a vast selection of novels and magazinesin English. It now also houses a delicious sushi restaurant”“If I were accompanying the tourists and because I am lucky enough to know the ownersof the establishment, I would ask them to show us “Gli orti di Leonardo”, the gardenwhere in XV century this genius drew inspiration for the creation of his famous fresco andhis scientific discoveries.” The courtyard of Casa Atellani, designed by Portaluppi, acts as abackdrop to this magical place.Pupi then would suggest a cup of tea and pastries at Leonardo, a “cosy, atmospheric” coffeeshop, located just a short distance from corso Magenta, in via Aurelio Saffi, named after thefamous artist and inventor. Our visitors would come in a few steps to piazza Tommaseo,onto which face the shops, selling men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, that are ownedby Pupi herself. The eleven wonderfully lavish window displays have been defined as “theexpression of understated, minimalist creativity”.“To end this event-filled day I would suggest a visit to Corso Como which – in addition tohosting a first-rate restaurant – is also a cosmopolitan meeting place for the lovers of fashionand culture”.Carla Nobili, a 75-year-old full-blooded Milanese, and proud of it!“My family is 100 percent Milanese even though, seventy-five years ago when I was born, my parentslived in Sardinia, where my father was in charge of opening a branch of La Rinascente. I moved backto Milan as an adult, and I absolutely love it. My favorite spots in the city include: the indoor marketin piazza Wagner (Map B4), renowned for the freshness of its produce; the Conservatorio (in viaConservatorio 12, San Babila area, Map H5), of which I am a season ticket holder; Teatro Strehler (largoGreppi, Map E3), famous for the quality of its productions (see photo above). I usually try to fit in at leastone performance a month. A tip? Do as I do, tour Milan on foot: it’s also a great way to stay fit!12 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

WHERE NOW Milan»ARTSOne of the stunning pieces of jewellery on display at Palazzo RealeISLAMIC ARTAn exhibition of Islamic artworks entitled“Al-Fann. The Art of Islamic Civilization”: setto run until 30 January 2011, the event – thefirst of its kind in Europe – is held at the city’sPalazzo Reale and features more than 350works from the private collection of the Emir ofKuwait. One thousand years of history includesornamental friezes, samples of handwriting,arabesques, decorations, ceramics and sculptures,tapestries, carpets, jewellery and chiselled metals.Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri and Sun9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm.Tickets: €9. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 92800375.www.arteislamica.itMuseo del Novecento:the Newest Assetin the CityA new Twentieth Century Museum in theheart of Milan, in piazza Duomo: extending over4,000 sqm., the museum displays more than 400masterpieces. Inaugurated on 6th December, until28 February 2011 admission will be free. Picasso,Braque, Klee and Kandinsky but, above all, theItalians Modigliani, Boccioni, De Chirico, Morandi,Fontana and Burri and many others besides: animposing catalogue which visitors can admire in therecently renovated Palazzo dell’Arengario, a truework of 1930s architectural genius. The museumalso has a bookshop, a restaurant and a screeningroom. Museo del Novecento, piazza Duomo. Mon2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm;Thurs-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm.“Over the Under”“Over the Under” is an open air exhibition ofcast-iron manhole art. The initiative is the resultof a collaboration between Via Montenapoleone(the most famous fashion-street in the world),art patron METROWEB (Milanese owner of thelargest metropolitan network of dark fibres inEurope) and five international urban artists:Shepard Fairey (New York),Flying Fortress (Berlin),Rendo (Milan), The LondonPolice (London), SpaceInvader (Paris). They willparticipate in the on roadexhibition until December2011.INDESTRUCTIBLEICONSThe icon of rock in 70 portraits taken byfamous photographers including PeterLindbergh, David Montgomery, RobertWhitaker and Bryan Adams. “Mick Jagger.The photobook” from 2 December to20 February 2011 at Spazio Forma, theMilanese sanctum of photographic art.Tues-Wed-Sat-Sun 10am-8pm; Thurs-Fri10am-10pm. Tickets €7.50. Piazza TitoLucrezio Caro, 1. www.formafoto.itMUSEO DEL NOVECENTO: PHOTO BY GIANNI CONGIU.14 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

BRASILIA, 50 YEARS LATERThe Triennale (Map D3), Milan’s templeof architecture and design, celebratesthe capital of Brazil, a singular, urbanexperiment, designed in an arbitrary fashionand based on the concept of the “idealcity” with an exhibition entitled “Brasilia.Utopia Realized. 1960-2010”. Unpublisheddrawings and documents regarding thework of architect Oscar Niemeyer and hispartners. Until 23 January 2011.Open Tues, Wed, Sat, Sun 10.30am-8.30pm.Thurs and Fri 10.30am-11pm. Tickets: €4.Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341.www.triennale.orgCOMING SOONRAUSCHENBERG’S“GLUTS”Villa Panza, a seventeenth centuryresidence located just half an hourfrom Milan and converted into amuseum of contemporary art by thephilanthropist Giuseppe Panza, ishosting until 27 February a fabulousexhibition dedicated to RobertRauschenberg, the explosiveAmerican artist of the ‘50s. “Gluts” is organized by FAI (National Heritage Foundation)in collaboration with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in New York, the PeggyGuggenheim Collection in Venice, and the Robert Rauschenberg Estate of New York.Situated 40 km from the centre of Milan, the villa alone is worth a visit at any time ofyear: Varese, Piazza Litta 1. T: 0332 283960. www.fondoambiente.itFRUIT FACESWhether you’re crazy or not crazy about art,his paintings are unmistakable: dream-like,surprising, burlesque-style portraits in whichfaces are portrayed through a combinationof objects, pots and pans, books and toolsbut, above all, pieces of fruit. An exhibition,featuring the works of Arcimboldo, thefamous 16th century Milanese artist (1527-1593), will be on display from 10 Februaryto 22 May 2011 against the magnificentbackdrop of Palazzo Reale.OUT OF MILAN75 KILOMETERSA Taste of JapanLugano, the most important city in southern Switzerland,located just over an hour from the centre of Milan, willhost a fabulous exhibition, divided into four parts, entitled“Nippon” (between myth and reality: art and culture fromJapan). Scheduled to run until 27 February 2011 (at differentplaces and at different times: visit the www.nipponlugano.chwebsite) the numerousworks displayed willattempt to illustratefour different aspectsof Japanese culture:“Araki-Love andDeath”, “Gutai-Timeand Space”, “Ineffableperfection-Photographsof Japan 1860-1910”, and“Shunga-Art and Erosduring the Edo period”.An Approaching DreamThe exhibition of over 50works exploring the Masterof Surrealism’s relationshipwith landscape, dream anddesire is called “SalvadorDalí. Il sogno si avvicina”.On exhibition at PalazzoReale until 31 January 2011,portraits and self-portraits,but also experimentalwork by Dalí in the fieldof fashion, design andcinema. Mon 2.30-7.30pm;Tues-Wed-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat-Sun9.30am-10.30pm.Tickets: €9.www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale. PiazzaDuomo, 12 .www.wheretraveler.com 15

WHERE NOW MilanENTERTAINMENTCLASSICAUDITORIUMOn stage, several timeless classicalmasterpieces: Franz JosephHaydn’s Concert for Trumpet andJohannes Brahms’s Symphony No.1 (13, 14 and 16 January); RequiemMass by Giuseppe Verdi (20, 21and 23 January); Der Tod und dasMädchen by Franz Schubert; and“Italian” Symphony No. 4 by FelixMendelssohn-Bartholdy (27, 28and 30 January) performed by theOrchestra Verdi (www.laverdi.org).CONSERVATORYA parade of soloist stars: violinistLeonidas Kavakos (10 January), pianistsAndrea Bacchetti (on 14 January) andOlli Mustonen (17 January), MarthaArgerich (29 January), and AngelaHewitt (31 January).Ask your concierge for tickets.JAZZ APERITIVOTeatro Manzoni hosts a Sunday morning Milanese ritual, a jazz concertaperitivocombo. On 23 January, don’t miss the Israeli group 3 Cohens,a group of 3 siblings (in the photo: Avishai on the trumpet, and Anatand Yuval on the saxophones). On January 30, the famous SouthAfrican pianist, Abdullah Ibrahim and his Ekaya ensemble will play.www.aperitivoinconcerto.comTEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDII Grandi Pas de Deux is the titleof the ballet to be staged on 21January with choreography byLiliana Cosi and Marinel Stefanescuof the Classic Ballet Company.www.teatroarcimboldi.itTEATRO DELLA LUNAFrom 27-30 January, Swan Lake willbe performed by Moscow Ballet-LaClassique, featuring dancers fromseveral of Russia’s most prestigiousacademies including the Bolshoiin Moscow and the Kirov in St.Petersburg. www.teatrodellaluna.comFor all locations: see The Guide –Concert Venues & Theatres, p. 52.BASKETBALL: “LITTLE RED SHOES”It’s the most titled basketball team in Europe,having won as many as 25 Italian championships,three European Champions Cups and oneIntercontinental Cup. Since its inception in 1936,Olimpia Milano-ArmaniJeans has always starredin the history of basketball. Now celebrating its75th anniversary, it continues its victorious ascent,ranking at the top positions in Serie A, the highestlevel of Italian basketball. During the next few weeks,at the Mediolanum Forum Stadium in Assago,it will play against Scavolini Pesaro (16 January),Banca Tercas Teramo (23 January) and AngelicoBiella (6 February).JANUARY DATESIn Via Borsieri, at the Italian“branch” of the most famous jazzclub chain in the world, you candine and spend a delightful eveningin the company of some of theworld’s best-known artists. TheJanuary program will be enrichedby the extraordinary talent ofthe young Sicilian saxophonistFrancesco Cafiso (11 January); bythe return of the French group MattBianco (from 13-15 January); bythe Soul & R’n’B quartet headedby the keyboard player JamesTaylor (from 20 to 22 January);and by the Latin-jazz of the Cubanpianist Chucho Valdés (from 26-28January). www.bluenotemilano.com16 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

SENSUALITY OVER75 YEARSThe appeal of TangoMacef in FieraFrom 27-30 January, Fiera Milano (which can be reachedon the M1 underground line, Rho/Pero stop) will hostthe 90th edition of “Macef”, the International HomeShow for industry members. Last year it registereda visitor attendance of 90,000 people with 1,700exhibitors. In ninety years of history, visitors have beenable to admire objects then become world classics,such as the Moka coffee pot, the pressure cooker andstainless steel items. www.macef.itSeventy-five years ago marked thebeginning of the “Golden Age” ofArgentine tango. In January, RobertoHerrera’s Compañía will be in Milanto offer its audience an evening ofsensual elegance. For four evenings(24, 25, 31 January and 1 February)Teatro Smeraldo will host a danceperformance with music (from Piazzollato De Caro) performed live by theDecarisìmo Quintet. www.boxtickets.itMILANO MODA UOMOAs we know, fashion is alwaysahead of the times: from 15-18January, “Milano Moda Uomo”will showcase a selection of the2011/2012 autumn/winter prêta-portermenswear collections.The rich calendar of eventsencompasses more than 100happenings, including fashionshows and events to be heldeither in showrooms acrossMilan or at several of the historiccentre’s most evocative venues.www.cameramoda.itAmedeo Nazzari, movie star,since the ‘30s a fashion symbolOpera and BalletThe 2010-2011 season at Teatro alla Scala offers a richprogramme of performances: Cavalleria Rusticana by PietroMascagni and Pagliacci by Ruggero Leoncavallo (from 16-28January, conducted by Daniel Harding); concerts performedby the La Scala Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by YuriTemirkanov (23, 24 and 26 January); a Schubert recitalby the baritone Matthias Goerne (on 31 January); and theballet Histoire de Manon with music by Massenet (from 27January-11 February). www.teatroallascala.org. Although itis almost impossible to get tickets, you might try asking yourconcierge to perform a miracle.MOMIX, A COMBINATIONOF DANCE AND MAGICFrom 25 January-13 February, at TeatroNuovo, Momix will stage a sort of “bestof” their thirty-year repertoire, Remix. Thedancers-illusionists, directed by the famousUS choreographer Moses Pendleton, arerenowned for their ability to evoke a fantasticworld using only their bodies and a skilfulplay of lights. They are also very popular inItaly. www.teatronuovo.itITALIAN MUSICALFLASHDANCEPerformances of Flashdance, the musicaltaken from the famous film, which broke boxoffice records in the ‘80s, will continue until 23January at Teatro della Luna. Its soundtrackspawned several hit songs. All lyrics are inItalian. www.ticketweb.itMAMMA MIA!This musical boasts a following of at least42 million fans. Until 30 January, the TeatroNazionale will be staging the performancetranslated into Italian, with the original Abbasoundtrack. www.mammamiailmusical.itwww.wheretraveler.com 17

WHERE NOW Milan» WELLNESSWell Begun...Start 2011 with a positive attitudeby sticking to all those New Year resolutionsor simply regenerate after over-indulgingduring the holiday season: Januaryis wellness monthThere are those in search of purity, natureand organic rituals. Those who are having ahard time getting back to everyday realityand who wish to pamper themselves just alittle bit longer, those who have over-indulgedand now feel the need to get back intoshape, or simply those who have drawn upa list of good resolutions for the New Year,swearing that they will dedicate more time tothemselves. Well, we have some good newsfor you: January is the perfect time to visitspas, wellness centres and fitness clubs. The“Sparty” fashion, namely a party in slippers anda bathrobe held at a spa, also reigns supremein Milan . Here are a few examples of what thecity has to offer.Stepping into natureThe day programme, designedto rejuvenate body and mind, issimply called “Be Amazing”. Caviarface and body treatments, steambaths, mud massages, pedicures,manicures, and a fabulouschampagne lunch. This is just oneof the specials (€400 for the day)offered by the Harbour Club(www.harbourclub.it).While shoppingA luxury break from luxuryshopping: Espa – Angelo CaroliDay Spa for Gianfranco Ferrè(www.angelocaroli.com) carriesRelax at the Spiga 8 Spathe signature of one of the mostfamous Italian designers in theworld. It goes without saying thatit is located in via Sant’Andrea(Map G4), one of Milan’s chiceststreets, in the heart of the FashionQuadrangle. If, on the contrary,you have opted for a day of indoorshopping, don’t forget to takeadvantage of the Veribel Daily Spaat Coin in Piazza Cinque Giornate(Map H5).Panoramic overviewMahogany locker rooms, marbleshowers and, above all, a fabulousview over Milan through the club’sIN JUST75 MINUTESRelaxing breaks• The Day Spa 75 package givesyou the right to a unique wellnessprogramme and a deluxe massagelasting 75 minutes at Termemilano, setagainst the enchantingly old backdropof the Porta Romana district (www.termemilano.com). Booking required (T.02 55199367). Although you will needto bring a bathing costume along, thebathrobe, towel, slippers and courtesy kitare provided free-of-charge on arrival.• The treatment designed by beautyguru Paolo Guatelli is called “Magied’Oro”. After just one and a quarterhours you will emerge feeling absolutelyradiant thanks to an exfoliating scruband an intense modelling massage, bothusing gold-based products.To conclude, a break in the relaxationroom with champagne and chocolates.All this (at 70 euros) and more besidesat the Accademia del Bell’Essere(www.accademiadelbellessere.com).• Be Unique, the Wellness Centresituated just behind Palazzo Reale,dedicated to the “fans of technologyand the lovers of beauty”, offers a deluxe75’ massage (www.beuniquemilano.it), anextraordinary combination of relaxingmovements, from head to foot, fora heady sensation of pleasure andrelaxation.18 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

panoramic glass windows. The Club 10 Spa atthe Hotel Principe di Savoia (Map G2) offers aluxe atmosphere (www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com). After completing your treatments, a teamof hairdressers and make-up artists are availableto make sure that you leave the premises lookingabsolutely impeccable.After EightChocolate and peppermint: not to pop in yourmouth but to put on your skin. A chocolateand mint scrub, velvety cream and a total bodymassage. A temptation well worth succumbingto (130euro/hour) at Atomic Spa Suisse (www.spasuisse.com), located in the sophisticated,futuristic ambience of the Hotel Boscolo Exedra,in the heart of Milan’s centre (Map G4). Opentill 9pm.Flavours of the OrientArab architecture, honeyed sweet meats, hotmint tea and two hammams, one for womenand one for men: a taste of the Orient at theMoresko Hammam Cafè in via Rubens (www.moresko.it), an aromatic oasis for massages,relaxation, and an exotic post-treatmentdinner.CultThe Culti Day Spa in via Angelo Mauri (Map B5)(www.cultidayspa.it) has been voted “FavouriteOverseas Day Spa” by the cosmopolitan readersof the magazine, Traveller . Its rich menu oftreatments includes a “Twin Rebirth” programmefor two, starting from 450 euros. The Spa Culti alsohas a branch located in the dreamlike setting ofMaison Moschino (viale Monte Grappa 12/b, MapF2. www.maisonmoschino.com).Vis à visLuxury, performance and wellbeing: the BulgariSpa (via privata Fratelli Gabba, 7b, Map F4. www.bulgarihotels.com) face treatments rely on Bulgari’scosmetic research, with products based on thepower of gems. Needless to say, its line of cosmeticsis also on sale to help you rejuvenate at home.HawaianoThis stimulating, oil-based massage that gets ridof tension and activates your metabolism hailsfrom the Pacific Islands and is called Lomi Lomi.In Milan you can try it at the Spiga 8 Spa in theCarlton Hotel Baglioni, in via della Spiga 8(www.baglionihotels.com, Mon 1pm-9pm;Tue-Fri 9am-9pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm).A true hammam experienceat MoreskoMASSAGES •••WEIGHT LOSS •••BEAUTY •••TECHNO AREA •••SUN •••FACE AND BODY •••PASSIONATE ABOUT TECHNOLOGY,LOVERS OF BEAUTYPROEDICOMUNICAZIONEVia Gonzaga, 5 ••• Milano ••• T: 02 39663676 ••• info@beuniquemilano.itwww.wheretraveler.com 19

Exploring Milan and surrounding areasThe “Navigli”,a Waterway to the SeaA “NOT-TO-BE-MISSED “STOPOVER. Are you lookingfor a unique way of discovering Milan? Then take alook at it from the water. Although there is no sea inMilan, between 1179 and the Napoleonic era, it boastedhundreds of kilometres of Navigli or canals (most ofthem were built by Leonardo da Vinci) connecting it toLake Maggiore, Lake Como, the Ticino river and, finally,through the river Po, to the sea. Today, the only traces ofthat enormous network of waterways are the NaviglioGrande, the Paderno Canal, the Bereguardo Canal, thePavia Canal, and the Martesana Canal. The Darsena(Docks) is one of the most picturesque districts in Milanand its basin is one of the few remaining evidence ofthe vast system of canals and waterways in Milan. Takinga walk or bicycling along the Navigli is a truly enjoyableexperience. Conversely, another option is to immerseyourselves in the old-world atmosphere of times goneby taking a boat trip on the Navigli.REMNANTS OF HISTORYThe Navigli were highly strategic and used to irrigatethe fields, for trade and to transport the enormousmarble blocks required to build the Duomo. In 1482,Leonardo da Vinci was commissioned by the Duke ofMilan to solve the problem of the differences in levelwhich he did by devising a system of sluices that canstill be seen today. His sketches for the project are preservedin the Museo dei Navigli (Brera, via San Marco40. Map F2). Several of them can also be seen in hisfamous Codex Atlanticus (Biblioteca Ambrosiana, seeThe Guide – Museums & Attractions). The Navigli werecompleted centuries later by Napoleon, only to fall intodisuse when the train system took over.Lombardy waterways (XVIII century)20 WHERE CITY NAME I JANUARY 2011

Living the “Navigli” DistrictVENUES AND EVENTS. The Navigli districtis one of the most vibrant in the city boastingrestaurants, wine-bars, and live music butalso painters’ studios and a slew of interestingshops. You can start your exploration from PortaTicinese, a highly original “quartier” alternating“banister houses” and artisan workshops withtrendy addresses. Beyond piazza VentiquattroMaggio, the Naviglio Grande, the oldestnavigable canal in the world, begins its outwardjourney to the countryside. The approximately10 kilometres that separate the Darsena (MapD7) from the town of Gaggiano offer statelypalazzi, small towns such as Abbiategrasso(a charming “slow city” ), wrought iron bridges,fishing boats, and churches from a number ofdifferent periods. Their orange, yellow, and redfacades are reflected in the water.BIKING EXPERIENCE. The Naviglio dellaMartesana is a fabulous biking experience(starting from the area near M2 Gioia, Map G1).On the otehr branch of the Navigli, if you havetwo hours on hand, you can hire public bicycles(www.bikemi.com) from the M2 Porta Genovaunderground station (Map C7). Festivals and openairmarkets are often held in the Navigli area: on 30January, the Antique Market takes place on theAlzaia Naviglio Grande. Ask your hotel for updates.TAKING A BOAT RIDE. Take a trip into the pastwith a boat ride on the Navigli: until 16 January, onSat, Sun, and public holidays, four daily excursionsby boat leave from the Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 4(11.30am, 2pm, 3.05pm, 4.10pm). The trips last 55minutes (8 euros, free for children under the ageof 3) and take visitors on a tour of the charmingVicolo dei Lavandai, the church of Santa Maria delleGrazie, the old bridges, and the sluice designed byLeonardo. Ask your Concierge to book tickets or visitthe www.naviglilombardi.it website.JAZZING IT UP. Along the Navigli you can findnumerous characteristic night spots, that havealways been synonymous with Milanese night lifeand good music: the most famous is Le Scimmie(see The Guide p.52)Right: Le Scimmie big boat,housing up to 120 people.Bottom: rock and jazzat the traditionalwaterside venuePHOTO © ISABELLA PINGITORE-DAF. DE LUNAwww.wheretraveler.com 21

the guidewhereShoppingThe Largest ArmaniBoutique in the WorldOn the ground floor, women’s clothing andaccessories; on the first floor, men’s clothing,also made-to-measure; on the second floor,evening wear and jewellery. This is thelargest and, possibly, the most beautiful ofthe 75 Giorgio Armani Boutiques scatteredthroughout 46 countries worldwide:three floors of luxury and elegance in the“Quadrilatero della Moda”, 2,000 squaremetres set against the backdrop of aRenaissance period palazzo, an imposingsynthesis of Armani signature style.www.armani.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 76003234.For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comAccessoriesANDREW’S TIES—At Andrew’s Ties there is somethingfor everyone. Their selection covers a vast rangeof models with over 6000 patterned ties featuringten different variations for each style. You just can’thelp treating yourself to one. The chain has otherstores in Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun10am-7pm. www.andrewsties.com. Galleria VittorioEmanuele II. T: 02 860935. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ—The brand is renownedthroughout the world. Sophisticated, originalcreations made from unusual materials such asplastic and resin, combined to create unique objectsboth in terms of colour and shape. Her creationshave been used as accessories by famous televisionand film producers. The accessory as a focal point,capable of creating a look or dressing up any typeof garment. A magical blend of contemporary andclassical taste. A dream well worth the wearing.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm;2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. ViaMadonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4BORBONESE—A brand label that epitomizes theultimate in fashion accessories and clothing. Knownfor its creativity and innovation throughout the word,Borbonese is famous for its bird’s eye pattern, thesymbol of the maison. Using precious materials ofthe highest quality, and a precise artisanal technique,Borbonese engenders products of superlativedesign and luxury. Its collaboration with artists of thecalibre of Balla and Lichtenstein made for attentiongrabbing pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borbonese.com. Via N. Bixio, 7. T: 02 97379911. M1Porta Venezia. Map H3BORSALINO—Historic Italian company synonymouswith “hats” the world over. Each piece is anunrepeatable masterpiece, created with anartisan touch, the result of in-depth research thatharmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Monand Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 0289015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5BRACCIALINI—Bags resembling works of art:embroidered, coloured, vibrant and carefree.Both inside and out, these totes are the epitomeof creativity, innovation and passion. For womenin search of distinctive, unique, personality-filledobjects. Also sells scarves, wallets, belts, sunglassesand other items. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.www.braccialini.it. Corso Venezia, 3. T: 02 76001786.M1 San Babila. Map G4BRIC’S—Impeccably crafted travel products.Accessories, briefcases and women’s handbags.Functionalism and creativity, noble leathers andinnovative materials – a perfect blend of traditionand avant-garde technology. For sophisticated,elegant travelers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun10am-7pm. www.brics.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.T: 02 89098043. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5CAMOMILLA—Bags and accessories for trendy,fashion-conscious women. Style and personalitywithout foregoing quality and elegance. Costumejewellery, accessories and bags for an emotion-filledshopping experience. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm;Sun 11am-7pm. www.camomilla.it. www.camomilla.it. Corso Europa corner of Galleria San Carlo. T: 0276280809. M1 San Babila. Map G5COCCINELLE—Sophisticated, timeless high-fashionbags and accessories with an artisan edge. Forthose in search of accessories featuring minimalistlines and eye-catching details. A wide choice ofWHERE COVERS MORE than 100 global travel destinations, from Singapore to San Francisco, LA to London, Miami to Milan and great places in between.© PHOTO ARMANI22 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

ShoppingGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a listof establishments recommended by theeditors of Where Magazine and includes regularadvertisers. Based on statistical evidence, themost popular luxury brands are grouped underthe separate lisiting Fashion Designer Stores,which can be found on pages 24-25.MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in BOLD at the end ofeach listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinateson the street maps on pages 62-63.INFORMATIONVisitors should note that VAT is generally 20%and it is generally included in the price ofgoods. Before finalizing a purchase, overseasvisitors from outside the EU should ask theshop assistant whether they are eligible fora tax refund. Shopping hours are generallyfrom 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally locatedshops still take the traditional lunch break from12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shopsare closed on Sundays (except those located incentral Milan) and on Monday mornings. Makesure to always check ahead. Several unusualshops, stocking items and rarities for collectorsand aficionados in specific product categories,are listed under Passion Shopping rather thanin the standard Shopping sections.bags, footwear, wallets and other accessories. 3sales outlets. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.coccinelle.com. ViaA. Manzoni corner of via Bigli T: 02 76028161. M3Montenapoleone. Map F4EVE—Leather accessories: shoes, bags, wallets andluggage featuring a young, contemporary design,made from the finest, ultra-soft leathers. Available ina wide range of colours that can be matched withthe garments chosen by Eve for casual, elegant menand women’s wear. Viale Piave, 35. Open 10am-7.30pm. T: 02 29526986. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3;Via L. Mascheroni, 12. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm;Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 468732. M1Conciliazione. Map C4FURLA—Contemporary luxury and a discreet, elegantstyle. A wide assortment of exclusively “Made-in-Italy” items: bags, footwear, belts, luggage, costumejewellery and jewellery. A perfect example oftime-honoured Italian artisan tradition. The chain hasother stores in Milan. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm.www.furla.it. Corso Buenos Aires, 22 corner of viaOmboni. T: 02 2043319. M1 Porta Venezia. Map G5I SANTI—This well-established historic Milanese brandcreates not only handbags and accessories forwomen but also a travel&business and men’s line.A perfect blend of superior craftsmanship, supremequality skins and Italian design, with painstakingattention to details. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm;Tues-Sat 9am-7.30pm. www.isanti.it. Corso Lodi, 1.T: 02 55185925. M3 Porta Romana. Map H7MIU MIU—A young, stylish, fresh, avant-gardebrand created, in 1993, by Miuccia Prada (Miu Miuis her nickname) for young, upmarket women.Dresses, bags, footwear, gloves, scarves and fashionaccessories and items. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-8pm. www.miumiu.com. ViaSant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4MUTINELLI—The time-honoured milliner, Multinellioffers a vast selection of high-class hats for menand women. The atmosphere is still the same asit was back in 1888, the year of its establishment,and still retains its original flooring, wrought irondécor and period furnishings. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.mutinellicappellimilano.com. Corso Buenos Aires, 5.T: 02 29523594. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3VALEXTRA—For those in search of luxury luggage,sophisticated bags and leather items for the office.Its range also includes wallets, small leather goods(including exclusive keyrings) and elegant cases forlaptops (PC and Mac). Valextra is a harmonization ofartistic inventions and artisan experiences. The storehas other sales point in Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.valextra.it. A. Manzoni, 3. T: 02 99786000.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4BeautyALDO COPPOLA—This celebrity hair salon has noneed for introduction and is a hot favourite withthe fashion crowd. Aldo Coppola boasts numeroussalons scattered around Milan but also in otherfashion capitals worldwide. Minimalist décor anddesign lighting make this a truly unique venue inMilan, Rome, Florence, Como, Lecco, Monte Carloand Porto Cervo. Open Tues-Sat 9am-6pm. www.aldocoppola.it. Corso Garibaldi, 110. T: 02 6552144.M2 Moscova. Map F2BEAUTY SUN (DIBI CENTER)—The highly centralBeauty Sun offers its clientele all the expertiseand consultancy of a DibiCenter, including face orbody check-ups. A complete package of wellbeing– body and face treatments, pressotherapy,nail reconstruction and permanent make-up.Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat 9am-2pm. www.dibibeautysun.it. Via San Paolo, 13 (GalleriaLongobardi). T: 02 877589. M1 San Babila. Map G5MILANO ESTETICA DUE—A beauty parlour parexcellence, located in the heart of town. A team,consisting of doctors and experts, is available fortargeted consultancy. Face treatments on offerinclude radiofrequency and ultrasound, skin controland botulifting. Body treatments range frommassages to marine peeling, thermal treatmentsand cavitation. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.milanoestetica.it. Corso Venezia, 3. T: 02 76001202.M1 San Babila. Map G4PROFUMO—A reference point for the lovers ofexclusive perfumes and fragrances. Inaugurated in1984, this shop distinguishes itself from other moretraditional venues by offering a selection of exclusiveproducts that celebrate the art of perfume, the resultof in-depth research by its owner, Nicoletta Astori.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Brera, 6. T: 02 72023334.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4TONY&GUY—Two young and dynamic salons (in viaV. Monti and Galleria Passarella) offering personalizedcuts, studied according to the lines of your face andindividual customer requirements. Tony&Guy alsoboasts a prestigious academy, where hair stylistsshare experiences, and a beautifully packagedproduct line. Open Mon 11am-8pm; Tues-Wed-Fri9.30am-9pm; Thurs 9.30am-9pm; Sat 9.30am-7.30pm.www.toniandguy.it. Via V. Monti, 27. T: 02 48027137.M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4WILD BEAUTY—Just a short distance from the CastelloSforzesco, Wild Beauty aims to rejuvenate skin andsoul. An expert team of professionals, a sophisticatedambience and a host of services. Among themost popular, well worth a try are “beauty day”, acomplete treatment including body care, manicureand pedicure, facials and peelings. Open Mon-Tues8.30am-9pm; Wed-Thurs-Fri 8.30am-9.30pm; Sat10.30am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. www.wildbeauty.it. Corso Garibaldi, 30. T: 02 72023341. M2 Lanza, M2Moscova. Map E3Books & MagazinesFNAC—An internationally renowned French chain, itoffers three floors featuring a vast range of products:books (also available in foreign languages) CDs,DVDs, videogames, cell phones, MP3, IT, TV, Hi-Fi,cameras and camcorders, a ticket service, photoprinting, bar and Internet Point. Open Mon-Sat9.30am-8pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.fnac.it. Via Torino,45. T: 02 869541. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori. Map F5IL LIBRO - LIBRERIA INTERNAZIONALE—Establishedas a German bookstore, it specializes in educationalpublications and foreign language literature (English,German, French, Spanish, Portuguese and Russian)both for adults and children. Extremely well-stockedwith multi-lingual assistants, it also offers thepossibility of bibliographical research. Any book titlesnot available in stock can be ordered on request.Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-12.30am/3pm-7pm.www.il-libro.it. Via F. Ozanam 11. T: 02 2049022.M1 Lima. Off MapLA FELTRINELLI EXPRESS—A brand new salespoint extending over 2500 sq.m. located insidethe Stazione Centrale. Spread out over severalfloors, it offers books, CDs, DVDs, multimedia items,stationery and the largest selection of paperbacksin the city in original language versions. On theground floor, dedicated to travelers, you can findan international newsstand and a wide selectionof guides and books on art and local history. Thesecond floor is given over to infants and childrenwhile the third, boasting original frescoes from theThirties, offers a selection of 65 thousand books,CDs, DVDs and games. The top floor is used forpresentations and events. Open Mon-Sun 7am-10pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Stazione Centrale.T: 02 06679031. M1-M3 Centrale. Map H1LA FELTRINELLI INTERNATIONAL—A vast catalogueof titles in English, French, Spanish, German, Russian,Portuguese, Chinese, Arabic and others, foreignmagazines, book launches with foreign authors,audio books and DVDs. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7.30pm;Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Piazza Cavour, 3.T: 02 6595644. M3 Turati. Map G3LA FELTRINELLI LIBRI E MUSICA—Italy’s largestchain of music and book stores, it boasts numerouslocations scattered throughout the city. Just a fewsteps away from the Teatro Nazionale, three floorsof books (foreign language sections also available),www.wheretraveler.com 23

Fashion Designer StoresPHOTO © PASQUALE BIZZARRIMilan is known as one of the shopping capitals ofthe world. Although high-end purchases can bemade in any part of the city, several urban areas arealso entirely given over to the business of luxuryshopping. First and foremost, the Quadrilaterodella moda, set amidst four of Milan’s mostexpensive and prestigious shopping streets, namelyvia Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, via della Spigaand corso Venezia (see map p. 26). It is here that themost important fashion designers, of internationalrepute, offer their luxurious creations. Discover theworld of fashion and glamour in this unique, magicalpedestrian precinct (also featuring a number of smallside streets dotted with glam boutiques).Beyond the Quad itself, shoppers can visit otherjust as golden districts such as Brera (see mapp. 30), with corso Garibaldi and corso Como,the Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera and Solferinodistricts (see maps p. 35-36) or the Duomo-Galleria-via Dante area.

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY –www.albertaferretti.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Montanapoleone, 21/A. T:02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 SanBabila. MAP G4ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE – www.alvieromartini.it. Open Mon-Thurs 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Fri-Sat 10am-7pm. CorsoG. Matteotti corner of via P. Verri. T: 0276008002. M1 San Babila. MAP G4BALENCIAGA – www.balenciaga.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 19.T: 02 760841. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4BLUMARINE – www.blumarine.com. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via dellaSpiga, 42. T: 02 795081. M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4BOTTEGA VENETA – www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76024495. M1 SanBabila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4BORSALINO – www.borsalino.com. OpenTues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun-Mon 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,92. T: 02 89015436. M1 Duomo. MAP F3-F4BURBERRY – www.burberry.com. OpenMon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Bigli,2. T: 02 7608201. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4CESARE PACIOTTI – www.cesare-paciotti.com. Women: Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.Via Sant’Andrea, 8. T: 02 76001338. M1 SanBabila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4 • Men:Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea,8/A. T: 02 76001164. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4CHANEL – www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T:02 782514-76016545. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4CHURCH’S – www.church-footwear.com.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794.M1 San Babila. MAP G4 • Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm.Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 0272094454. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5DIOR – www.diorcouture.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 12.T: 02 76317801. MAP G4. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone.DOLCE&GABBANA – www.dolcegabbana.it.Men: open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. CorsoVenezia, 15. T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila.MAP G4.• Women: open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 26. T: 02 76001155. M1San Babila. MAP G4 • Accessories: via dellaSpiga, 2. T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. MAP G4EMILIO PUCCI – www.emiliopucci.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,14. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA – www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4ETRO – www.etro.it. Open Mon-Sun10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone,5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4FENDI – www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Thurs9.30am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm. ViaSant’Andrea, 16. T: 02 8852236. M1 San Babila.MAP G4FAY – www.fay.it. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 15. T: 02 76017597. M1San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4FRATELLI ROSSETTI – www.fratellirossetti.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4GATTINONI – www.gattinoni.net. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 9. T: 0272094402. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4GIANFRANCO FERRÈ – www.gianfrancoferre.it. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pmby appointment. Via Pontaccio, 21. T: 02721341. M2 Lanza Brera-Piccolo Teatro.MAP E3GIORGIO ARMANI – www.giorgioarmani.com. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 2. T: 02 76003234. M1 SanBabila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4GUCCI – www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Fri10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4 •Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 10am-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.T: 02 8597991. M1, M3 Duomo. MAP F5HERMÈS – www.hermes.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea,21. T: 02 76003495. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4 • HermèsAeroporto di Milano-Aeroporto di MalpensaTerminal 1. T:02 58581265. OFF MAPHOGAN – www.hoganworld.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G7JIL SANDER – www.jilsander.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 6. T: 02 7772991.M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4JIMMY CHOO – www.jimmychoo.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A.T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. MAP G4KENZO – www.kenzo.com. Open Mon-Sat9am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni,25. T: 02 72080735. M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4KRIZIA – www.krizia.it. Open Mon3pm-7.30pm; Tue-Sat 10am-7.30pm.Via della Spiga, 23. T: 02 76008429. M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4LAURA BIAGIOTTI – www.laurabiagiotti.it.Open Mon 3pm -7pm; Tue–Sat 10am-1.30pm,2.30pm-7pm. Via Borgospesso, 19. T: 02799659. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4LES COPAINS – www.lescopains.it. OpenMon 3pm-7pm Tue-Sat 10am-7pm.Via A. Manzoni, 21. T: 02 72080092. M3Montenapoleone. MAP F4LORO PIANA – www.loropiana.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone,27/c. T: 02 7772901. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4LUCIANO SOPRANI – www.lucianosoprani.it. Open Tue-Fri 10.30am -2.30pm, 3pm-7pm;Sat 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via E. Morosini, 30.T: 02 54063280. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H6MANOLO BLAHNIK – www.manoloblahnik.com. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Wed-Thurs 10.30am-9pm. CorsoComo, 10. T: 02 654831. M2 Porta GaribaldiFS. MAP F1MILA SCHÖN – www.milaschon.com.Open Mon-Sat 10.30am -7.30pm.Via Vivaio, 11. T: 02 76281631. M1 Palestro.MAP H4MISSONI – www.missoni.it. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea corner of viaBagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila.MAP G4MOSCHINO – www.moschino.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 12. T: 0276000832. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4• Open Mon-Sat 10am -7.30pm.Via della Spiga, 30. T: 02 76004320.M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4PRADA – www.prada.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Corso Venezia,3. T: 02 76001426. M1 San Babila. MAP G4• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65.T: 02 876979. M1 Duomo. MAP F5RALPH LAUREN – www.ralphlauren.com.Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 7788721.M1 San Babila. MAP G4ROBERTA DI CAMERINO –www.robertadicamerino.com. Open byappointment. Corso Venezia, 29. T: 0276025820. M1 San Babila. MAP G4ROBERTO CAVALLI –www.robertocavalli.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42.T: 02 76020900. M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4ROCCO BAROCCO – www.roccobarocco.it.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.Via della Spiga, 31. T: 02 76000518.M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4STELLA MC CARTNEY –www.stellamccartney.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 3.T: 02 76281222. M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4TANINO CRISCI – www.taninocrisci.com.Open Mon 3-7pm; Tue-Sun 10am-2pm,3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 3.T: 02 76021264. M1 San Babila.MAP G4TOD’S – www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 1-7pm. Via della Spiga,22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. MAP G4 • Galleria VittorioEmanuele II. T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo.MAP F5TRUSSARDI – www.trussardi.it. ConceptStore: Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm.Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 8068821.M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5 • Accessories:Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm.Via Sant’Andrea, 5. T: 02 8068821.M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4VALENTINO – www.valentino.com. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4VERSACE – www.versace.com.Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528.M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.MAP G4VIVIENNE WESTWOOD –www.viviennewestwood.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Corso Venezia, 25.T: 02 76080222-223. M1 San Babila.MAP G4www.wheretraveler.com 25

Ci SannolcrooRERAMaria delrmineV. delV. PallaV. del CarmineV. CiovassoLauroV. dei Bossin o V. PorroneShoppingV. BreraV. MeloneV. dell’OrsoV. Mercantirari V. SpadariV. LupettaP.zaS. MarcoQuadrilatero Pinacoteca della moda(Quadrilaterodi Brerad’oro)The di Brera so-called “Quadrilaterodella moda” Osservatorio is situatedAstronomicoa short di distance BreraOrtoon footfrom the Duomo. Botanico This iswhere all the big designernames and most Ex Monte luxuriousstores in the di world Pietà cluster.Although the two mostfamous streets are viaMontenapoleone S. Giuseppe andvia della Spiga, all theothers located in the“Quadrilatero” also offera fabulous array of shopTeatrowindows alla that Scalawill literallymake you catch your Leonardobreath.V. ClericiV. BreraV. A. BoitoV. OreficiV. MauriV. San MarcoP.ttaPalazzoCusaniV. T. GrossiV. HugoV. dell’UnioneV. ZebediaV. Fiori OscuriV. Mazzini V. MazziniV. G. VerdiV. FilodrammaticiV. SanDalmazio26 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011V. Fienoo ItaliaV. Monte di PietàV. S. PellicoV. CernaiaV. Santa MargheritaV. GonzagaCorso di PortaV. AndegariMissoriV. FatebenefratelliV. dell’AnnunciataV. BorgonuovoV. Flli. GabbaV. VelascaV. MoroneV. BigliV. Alessandro Manzoni V. Alessandro ManzoniV. FoscoloV. RastrelliV. P. CannobioTorreVelascaV. PantanoQuesturaP.zaS. ErasmoV. San RaffaeleV. dei GiardiniMontenapoleoneV. RadegondaV. Palazzo RealeV. De MarchiV. HoepliV. LargaV. ChiaravalleV. MontenapoleoneV. Sant’AntonioPalazzoBorromeod’AddaV. AgnelloV. San PaoloV. delle OreV. BorgospessoV. P. VerriCorso Vittorio Emanuele IIV. San BergaminiV. PattariV. Festa del PerdonoV. F. TuratiV. Santo SpiritoCorso MatteottiUniversitàdegli Studidi MilanoV. S. Pietro all’OrteV. San BernardinoV. LaghettoP.zaCavourV. D. ManinV. del Vecchio PolitecnicoV. della SpigaV. GesùV. Sant’AndreaV. BaguttaCorso EuropaV. CavallottiV. della SignoraCentroSvizzeroP.leMorandiV. SenatoV. Francesco SforzaGiardini PubbliciV. PalestroV. DuriniV. MarinaV. San PrimoCorso VeneziaV. BorgognaV. CervaV. GuastallaV. CervaV. MarzialeV. RonchettiV. Andreani V. ZaccariaGiardinodella GuastallaPalazzodel SenatoV. BoschettiV. San DamianoV. MarinaPalazzoSerbelloniP.tta M.CasaPalazzoBossiManzoniPisa Orologeria ●● LarusmianiFontana-PalazzoSilvestriBelgioiosoTeatro SanTeatro deiCasa degli P.zaGiorgio Armani BabilaFilodrammaticiOmenoni Belgioioso● Boutique S. BabilaP.zaP.za dellaL.goMedaP.za S.o Scala MattioliBabilagnolaPal. MarinoMunicipio S. FedeleS. Carlo TeatroGalleria P.zaal Corso Nuovo GalleriaVittorio S. FedeleGalleriaS. Babila S. BabilaEmanuele IIdel ToroGalleriaOdeonL.go A.LongobardiToscaniniGalleriaP.za delPassarellaP.zaLibertySkorpion ClubordusioPalazzoPal. deiGalleria DuriniGiureconsultiGalleria del Corso S. Vito StrasburgoCordusioPalazzo dellaDuomoGalleriassaggio RagioneAscensore Pattarientrale P.zaMercantiP.zaP.za delDuomoBeccariaPassaggioDuomo Duomo DuomoP.za VigiliP.zaFontana UrbaniPio XIP.za MuseoL.go deiL.goReale del Duomo Palazzo Bersaglieri AugustoPisa Orologeria Larusmiani Arcivescovile FaraoneV. Dogana PalazzoV. VerziereRealeA watch lover’s L.go paradise L. J. for over 50 years. S. Gottardo An expression of timeless style and a S. BernardinoFaraone was known to safeguard theP.za S. M. Prestigious Borges timepieces V. with Giardino particular in Corte leitmotif of sophisticated elegance in the alle secrets Ossaof wealthy Milanese families.Beltrade attention S. Maria to the latest innovations. P.zanow completely renovated historic storeMarriages, births and other events inAssistance presso centre and specialized Diazopened in 1954. A concept boutique P.za the life of affluent customers were oftenS. SatiroS. StefanoCorso di Porta Vittworkshop. (p. 34)extending over 700 sq.m. on three floors,celebrated with a visit to this paradiseGalleriaBasilica diTorinoit oozes simplicity and understated luxury,of shining objects. Today customers Biblioteca will ComunaleGalleriaSanto Stefanoreflecting the subtlety of its sumptuousfind a reserved ambience and Centrale spectacular (PalazzoMazziniMaggioreSormani-Andreani)Galleriaapparel. (p 28)jewellery. (p. 34)dell’UnioneTeatrowww.pisaorologeria.comLiricoVia Verri, P.za corner ofwww.larusmiani.it S. AntonioS. Alessandro via Montenapoleone, Missori V. Albricci 9Via Montenapoleone, Abate7via Montenapoleone, 19T: 02 762081T: 02 76006957T: 02 76319153azzoulzioeatroDS. MarcoLuxury shoppingMuseo delRisorgimentoEMuseoPoldiPezzoliStazioneCentraleArchi di PortaNuovaGalleriaManzoniS. Francescodi Paola● Rolex FlagshipStoreFTeatroManzoniQUADRILATEROD’OROFaraone ●Museo BagattiValsecchiMuseo Civicodi MilanoGTeatrodi VerduraBiblioteca diVia Del SenatoMuseodi StoriaContemporaneaGalleriad’ArteModernaS. PietroCelestinoCorso Monforte CV. Uberto Visconti di ModroneSinagogaV. Cesare BV. San BarnabaPAC -PadiglioneContempoCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2011. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot acceptresponsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originallydesigned and produced by CM Cartographics.V. FilippoV. FregugliaV.DaVVV. ChiossetV

ShoppingCDs, DVDs, sheet music, magazines, videogames,new technologies, graphics, stationery and gadgets,talks and live music, bar, ticket office. Two locations inthe city (piazza Piemonte, corso Buenos Aires). OpenMon noon-9pm; Tues-Thurs 10am-9pm; Fri-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. PiazzaPiemonte, 2. T: 02 433541. M1 Wagner. Map B4MONDADORI MULTICENTER—A chain of megastoresscattered throughout the city, offering a wideassortment of books, CDs, DVDs, videogames,phones, electronics, IT, café, foreign newsstand andInternet Point. www.negozimondadori.it. Severallocations in the city (piazza Duomo, corso VittorioEmanuele II, via Marghera, via Berchet). Mon-Sun9am-11pm (Newsstand, Coffee Bakery and FineFoods from 7am). Piazza del Duomo, 1. T: 02 4544110.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PANTON’S ENGLISH BOOKSHOP—Spread out overtwo floors, Panton’s offers a vast selection of booksin English: narrative, history, children’s books, cookery,art etc.; but also books on antiques, travel guides,maps and multi-media products. Open Mon-Sat9.30am-7.30pm. www.yesplease.it. Via L. Mascheroni,12. T: 02 4694468. M1 Conciliazione. Map C4Children Clothing & ToysCITTÀ DEL SOLE—A chain of shops boasting a widerange of games and toys for all ages inc famousinternational brands and beautifully handcrafteditems. Tactical and strategic games, board games,draughts, backgammon, chess, architecturalmodels, building kits, boomerangs and countlessother fun items originating from all over Europe.Several locations in the city (via Orefici, via Solari, viaSpallanzani, corso Lodi, via Canonica). Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.cittadelsole.it. Via Orefici, 13. T: 0286461683. M1 Cordusio, M1 Duomo. Map F5PUPI SOLARI—Located in one of Milan’s mostcharming squares, it is one of the most elegantand traditional Milanese shops for little “lords”and “princesses”. It has been making and sellingchildren’s clothes for more than 40 years. Toys toplay with and a small tea room inside the shopguarantee a high class shopping experience forthose who enjoy being pampered. Though stockinga number of brands, it offers a classic selection,almost giving the impression of being a monobrandstore. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Piazza N. Tommaseo, 2. T: 02 463325. M1Conciliazione. Map C4Clothing - Men & WomenAGNONA—Since 1953, its philosophy has been basedon the quality of its raw materials which are alwaysand only the very best. Agnona’s expertise in textileshas resulted in the creation of chic, easy-to-wearwomen’s knitwear and prêt-a-porter collectionswhich are always enhanced by new and surprisingvariations. In addition to accessories, it also producesa home collection which includes throws, blankets,cushions, housecoats and slippers all made fromthe finest textiles. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. www.agnona.it. Via Montenapoleone, 21. T: 02 76316530.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4ANIMAL HOUSE—Contemporary menswearstocking a wide selection of international brandsat this store created as an offshoot of Host (seelisting). Animal House is gradually becoming a newdestination address for men in the know. OpenMon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via A.Saffi, 7.. T: 02 4694900. M1 Conciliazione, M1-M2Cadorna. Map D4ANTONIA BOUTIQUE—In the heart of Milan, AntoniaGiacinti offers a tasteful, elegant selection of thebest clothing and accessory collections. A perfectblend of renowned luxury brands and emergingdesigner labels. A real reference point for those insearch of simple, sophisticated garments featuring acontemporary though timeless look. Two locations(Boutique and Accessories: via Ponte Vetero, 1 cornerof via Cusani; Man: via Ponte Vetero, 9). Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. www.antonia.it.Via Ponte Vetero, 1. T: 02 86998340.M2 Lanza. Map E4ASPESI—Likes to define its style as “ basic, with atwist”. The cult brand, created in 1990 by fashionveteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailoredlines, elegant details and natural materials. Hiscurrent collections are still based on the original“no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all thosewho like their outerwear without flashy labels.Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. ViaMontenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BARDELLI—Founded in 1941 as a hat shop, Bardelli’sgradually grew to become the elegant emporiumthat it is today. Specializing in “cashmere, cotton andsilk”, it is housed in a nineteenth century palazzoand offers a range of beautiful men and women’scollections including suits, shoes, knitwear, textilesfor the home and marvellous accessories. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.mbardelli.com. Corso Magenta, 13. T: 02 86450734.M1-M2 Cadorna. Map E5BEL BOUTIQUE—This elegant, centrally locatedMilanese boutique stocks international designerlabels. Clothing, footwear and accessories forwomen and children. Always in search of newstyles, it anticipates fashion trends to offer itsclientele unusual garments that make the difference.Designer labels sold inc Ermanno Scervino, Herno,Michael Kors and R.E.D Valentino. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Via S. Damiano, 2 corner of corso Monforte.T: 02 794489. M1 San Babila. Map G4BOGGI—“Being elegant and feeling at ease onany occasion, expressing one’s personality withdistinction”. This is the philosophy of Boggi, a realinstitution in the panorama of male eleganceworldwide. It also boasts numerous sales pointsscattered throughout the city (piazza San Babila,corso Vercelli, corso Buenos Aires, Porta Romana,corso Como, largo Augusto, via Maddalena, GalleriaPassarella) and at the airports (Linate e Malpensa).Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.it. PiazzaSan Babila, 3. T: 02 76000366. M1 San Babila. Map G4BRIAN & BARRY—Despite its name, this is a whollyItalian brand. It has a series of multi-brand boutiqueswith various sales points in Milan (via Durini, corsoVercelli, corso Buenos Aires). It carries classic andcasual men and women’s wear. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.www.brianebarry.it. Via Durini, 28. T: 02 76005582.M1 San Babila. Map G4BROOKS BROTHERS—The symbol of male elegancesince 1818, this American clothing and accessoriesbrand is distinguished by high quality and sartorialtradition. Known since its inception for its shirting, itall began in the early 20th century with a new lineof button down shirts, inspired by those worn byBritish polo players and currently one of the hallmarkfeatures of the brand. For men and women in searchof a total look exuding casual elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.brooksbrothers.com.Via San Pietro all’Orto, 10. T: 02 76018081.M1 San Babila. Map G4BROOKSFIELD—Established in 1971, by UmbertoMaria Montasterolo as a brand of men’s trousers,in just a few years it achieved total look statuscombining the quality of Made-in-Italy with a refinedBritish-style imprint. Its flagship store for men andwomen was founded in 1995, in the heart of thefashion quad. Open: Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.brooksfield.com. Corso Venezia, 12.T: 02 76006242. M1 Porta Venezia. Map G4DIESEL—A wholly Italian cult brand, invented byRenzo Rosso and famed throughout the world forits quality, creativity and slightly quirky air. A favouritewith young people of all ages. Among its severalsales points, worth particular note is its giga-store inSan Babila. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.diesel.com. Piazza San Babila, 1/3. T: 02 76396762. M1 SanBabila. Map G4ELEONORA SCARAMUCCI—Starting with its shopwindows, the Eleonora Scaramucci store delightsthe eyes of passersby with its selection of refinedwomen’s wear. Also stocks its own “total look” brandname. In September, 2009, Scaramucci opened herown outlet, just a short distance from the store. Shophours: Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Outlet hours: Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.www.eleonorascaramucci.com. Via Dell’Orso, 1.T: 02 8052216. Map F4ELIANE—A fashion store dedicated to original, edgyfashions for the younger woman. It carries all thebest brands popular with the under 40’s but notonly. Its other shops are located in via Monti, viaLorenteggio, corso Genova. The courtyard adjacentto its via Belfiore location houses an outlet forbargain hunters. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.eliane.it.Via Belfiore, 7. T: 02 4692121. M1 Wagner, M1Pagano. Map B4GEMELLI—Established in 1927, this upscale shopis a part of Milan’s history. Over the years, it hasstocked every major designer label and now offersits own collection which reflects Milanese style toperfection. Famed for its cashmere knitwear, Gemelliboasts a women’s and men’s fashion boutique withtwo adjacent shops for children and sportswear.Just across the road, you can find the Kid’s storeGemellino and “Country Club”, a shop specializedin sportswear, a “country club” boutique and onededicated exclusively to socks. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.gemelli.it. Corso Vercelli, 16. T: 02 48000057.M1 Pagano, M1 Conciliazione. Map C4GENIALI—One of the best-known men’s shops inMilan, located in an elegant area just a short distancefrom piazzale Cadorna. For the elegant man whowishes to look impeccable both on formal or morecasual occasions. This upscale boutique offerswww.wheretraveler.com 27

Shoppingperfect, courteous service. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via V. Monti corner of via A.Saffi. T: 02 462605. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4HOST—This elegant men’s shop was establishedas the male counterpart of the historic PupiSolari (see listing) women’s boutique. It notonly carries an assortment of traditional butalso lesser known brands and is a favourite withMilanese men in the know. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. Piazza N. Tommaseo, 2. T: 02 436085. M1Conciliazione. Map C4LA TENDA—The first sales point of this group wasestablished in 1965 and is an institution of luxurymulti-brand labels on the Milanese scene. Itsboutiques (in addition to its first via Plinio location,it has two other shops, one in Brera and the otherin Via M. Pagano) offer a vast and carefully chosenselection of women’s collections. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. www.latendamilano.com. Piazza SanMarco, 1. T: 02 6575804. M2 Moscova. Map F2LARUSMIANI CONCEPT BOUTIQUE—An expressionof timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticatedelegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashionquad in the now completely renovated historic storeopened in 1954. A Concept Boutique extendingover 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozes simplicityand understated luxury, reflecting the subtlety of itssumptuous apparel. The perfect place to build yourwardrobe with exclusive pieces. Larusmiani takesluxury retail to a new level. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.larusmiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957.M1 San Babila. Map G4LUISA BECCARIA—A brand boasting an unmistakable,romantic and feminine style. High-fashion and prêta-portercollections, painstaking attention to detailand artisan embroidery represent Italian fashionthroughout the world. For women who believe thatfemininity is a plus to be flaunted and worn on adaily basis. Also stocks bridal gowns and children’sclothing. Has several branches (Bridal: via Fiori Chiari 17;Boutique: via Formentini, 1). Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm;Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Open everythird Sunday of the month. www.luisabeccaria.it. ViaM. Formentini, 1. T: 02 8638071. M2 Lanza. Map E3MARNI—Founded by the sportswear genius,Consuelo Castiglioni and a hot favourite with popstars and celebrities, Marni specializes in romantic,edgy collections boasting a sartorial cut. Its eclecticaccessories and cool quirky spirit have madeMarni one of Milan’s hottest tickets and earnedCastiglioni a loyal following of fashion insiders.Give your wardrobe an instant shot of Marni chicwith eye-catching handbags, glamorous footwear,exotic costume jewellery and eyewear. OpenMon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.marni-international.com. Via della Spiga, 50. T: 02 76317327. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4MAX MARA—An Italian fashion house known for itsready-to-wear clothing. Established in 1951, since itsinception, Max Mara has always offered clean-cut,beautifully tailored lines. Although it has numeroussales points scattered throughout Milan, Italy and therest of the world, it is not a chain store but rather areal designer label. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun10.30am-7.30pm. www.maxmara.com. Piazza Liberty,corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 76008849. M1-M3Duomo, M1 San Babila. Map G5MONCLER—Boutique and home to the famous“puffer” jackets which, in addition to the lines of itsmain sportswear collection, also carries the GammeBleu for men and the Gamme Rouge for women, anultra-sophisticated line featuring noble fabrics andhighly sought-after details that combine the styleof haute couture with superior-quality materialsthat have made Moncler a leading name in winterouterwear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.moncler.com. Via della Spiga, 7.T: 02 76025913. M1 San Babila. Map G4PUPI SOLARI—In 1969, Pupi Solari, a woman ofexquisite taste, opened this children’s shop whichnow also offers an eye-catching collection ofwomen’s clothing. The shop is connected to themen’s boutique Host (see listings). They also have anoutlet right next door to the shop. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12.T: 02 463325. M1 Conciliazione. Map C4RUGGERI—Located in the heart of Milan, since 1938it has catered to a discerning clientele of Milaneseand international customers. Offers a selectionof hard-to-find, supremely elegant, innovativecollections. For gentlemen in search of high qualityknitwear and beautifully tailored shirts. Open Mon1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.www.ruggeriabbigliamento.it. Piazza Duomo, 21. T:02 86462173. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5VIATIVOLI—A boutique boasting 3 sales points inthe city (via Orefici, corso Magenta, corso Genova)for women’s clothing distinguished by femininityand a touch of French flair. Open Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Orefici, 26.T:+39.02.86464543. M1 Cordusio. Map F5Concept StoresBANANA REPUBLIC—Versatile, streamlined clothingand luxury fabrics at affordable prices. This is thesecret of the success of Banana Republic whichhas just opened in Milan. The megastore alsohosts Monogram, a collection of basic clothingthat represents the best of the collections. Byappointment, free image consultancy withpersonal stylists. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun11am-8pm. www.bananarepublic.gap.com. Galleriadel Corso, 2. T: 02 30352800. M1 San Babila. Map G5CARGO—Home furnishings, books, perfumes,candles, carpets and a sector dedicated to tropicalplants. An exotic open space reconverted froma famous Milanese industrial factory but also acultural centre hosting discussions on art, food,music and games. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.www.high-techmilano.com. Via A. Meucci, 39. T: 022722131. M2 Crescenzago. Off MapFERRARI STORE MILANO—Dedicated to Ferraridevotees, this authorized sales point of thehistoric Maranello headquarters sells over threethousand types of Ferrari merchandise includingclothing, leather goods, high-class accessories,toys and models. From a minimum of 4.5 eurosfor a logoed writing pad up to 40 thousand fora Formula 1 engine. A visit to this futuristic, fivestorey,location, expressing the explosive soul ofcar racing, is definitely a worthwhile experience.Open Sun-Fri, 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-9pm. store.ferrari.com. Piazza Liberty, 8. T: 02 76017385. M1-M3Duomo. Map G5GAP—The first Gap megastore in Italy celebratesthe legend of casual, informal wear for adults andchildren. An urban chic style at affordable prices.Its three floors, spread out over 3,000 sq.m., hostthe most important collections: GapKids, babyGap,GapBody and GapMaternity with multi-colouredT-shirts, sweatshirts and jeans. Also stocks aValentino-for-Gap collection consisting of sevenlimited edition garments. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-8pm. www.gap-italia.it. CorsoVittorio Emanuele II, 24/28. T: 02 30352800. M1 SanBabila. Map G5HIGH TECH—A large multi-space emporium sellingsofas, bookshelves, fragrances, notebooks, lamps,kitchenware but also ethnic furniture and fashionaccessories. Original, innovative home furnishingsat affordable prices. Open Mon 1.30am-7.30pm;Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.high-techmilano.com. Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 6241101. M2Moscova, M2 Garibaldi. Map F2MILAN (MILAN A.C.) MEGASTORE—A “not-to-bemissed”address for A.C. Milan fans the world over:located in the historic Galleria, behind the Duomo,the shop boasts a display area of over 500 sq.m.on two floors, where you can find all the officialmerchandise of the “most prominent club inthe world”. Special price discounts for fans of theOfficial A.C. Milan Page on Facebook. Open: 7/7from 10am-8pm. www.acmilan.com. Corso VittorioEmanuele II-Galleria San Carlo. T: 02 89765408. M1-M3Duomo. Map G5MUJI—Distinguished by its minimalist design and ecofriendlyapproach, this store is a part of the famouschain of “made-in-Japan” furniture, clothing andhigh-tech items, with 3 stores in the city (via Torino,corso Buenos Aires, corso Vercelli). Muji’s strategyis based on low-key design and functionalism ataffordable prices. Open Mon 12am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.muji.eu. ViaTorino, 51. T: 02 809441. M1 Cordusio. Map F5NUMERO UNO MILANO—Established in 1984 inthe heart of Milan’s Chinatown”, this dealership is a“must” destination for Harley-Davidson fans. Unique,unconventional motorbikes that embody theHarley-Davidson spirit to the full: a look at the pastprojected towards the future. Several sales pointsin the same road (Motorbike Sales: via Niccolini, 28;Accessories: via Niccolini, 30; Clothing: via Niccolini,33 corner of via Fioravanti). Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30am/2pm-7pm; Sat 9.30-12.30am/3pm-7pm.www.numerounomilano.it. Via Niccolini, 28. T: 02349871. M2 Moscova. Map D2ROSSO PREZIOSO—Just a few steps from via Brera,this small concept store is perfect for intellectualchicshopping featuring the best of Made-in-Italy.Under the creative directorship of Cristina Bacchetti,it offers original collections of high-fashion costumejewellery featuring an elegant, innovative design.Creative themes, materials and colours are updatedregularly in accordance with the latest trends.In addition to costume jewellery, it also stocks adelightful selection of fashion accessories andclothing. Open Mon 1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.rossoprezioso.com. Via San Fermo, 1. T: 02654841. M2 Moscova-M3 Turati. Map F3VESPA STORE—This boutique in the heart of Milan isdedicated to the chicest two wheels in the world.The Vespa , meaning “wasp” in Italian, derived its28 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

MILAN LUXURYE. MARINELLAEstablished in 1914, the Marinella brand is known throughout theworld for its stylish, hand-made neckties, worn by heads of state,industrial magnates and celebrities. In addition to the legendaryshop – still located in Naples – and its sophisticated Milanboutique, E. Marinella ties are also sold at its single-brand storein Tokyo. New openings in Lugano from November 2010 andin London at the beginning of 2011. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. M1 Cordusio. Map F5www.marinellanapoli.itVia Santa Maria alla Porta, 5 – T: 02 86467036More info: www.wheremilan.comDAMIANIMaster craftsmen since 1924, Damiani boasts a longstandingtradition in goldsmithing which has always been interpreted withan innovative spirit. Clean-cut lines combined with a refined andclassic though contemporary elegance are the hallmark features ofthe Damiani jewellery line showcased in its flagship store designedby Antonio Citterio. The collections, displayed in a well-lit spaceand created by master goldsmiths in keeping with the best Italiantradition, are admired throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4www.damiani.comVia Montenapoleone, 10 – T: 02 76028088More info: www.wheremilan.comFABRIANO BOUTIQUEThe boutique sells superlative quality luxury stationer’s items,combining the high quality of Fabriano paper with materials,such as leather and linen, to make even the most simple ofeveryday items special. Products include diaries, bags, wallets,notepads, photo albums, cards and an array of different articlesproduced using only the most exclusive Italian raw materials.The perfect place to rediscover the joy of writing. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2.30pm-7.30pm. M1 Cairoli. Map E4www.fabrianoboutique.comVia Ponte Vetero, 17 – T: 02 76318754More info: www.wheremilan.comTIFFANY & CO.This world-renowned jeweller has four flagship stores in Italy, inMilan, Florence, Bologna and Rome. Located in Milan’s fashiondistrict, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewelleryand gift items, in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famousNew York counterpart founded in 1837. Beautifully crafted pieces ofremarkable elegance: bracelets, brooches, earrings, necklaces andpendants, rings and wedding bands. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.Map F4www.tiffany.comVia della Spiga,19/a – T: 02 76022321More info: www.wheremilan.comwww.wheretraveler.com 29

V. MazziniélfoescagimentoCavalleriaSavoiaV. Polizianoo FerruccioV. MussiV. Fratelli IndunoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniCorso SempioneV. A. CanovaCorso MagentaV. San VittoreV. F. Melzi D’ErilV. Vincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo MontianozaV.V. Losannaazioneomodossolaario PaganoV. S. Michele del Carsoo FoppaaraisoV. L. CastelvetroV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascheroniV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV. Andrea SolariV. SavonaCSpazio AcquaBULLONAShoppingP.zaGerusalemmeV. TassoV. M. BandelloV. Nicolò TartagliaV. Paolo LomazzoV.le G. MiltonV. Gian Battista VicoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniV. G. B. BertiniV.le Papiniano V.le PapinianoV. CeranoV.le Coni ZugnaV. VentimigliaV. TortonaV. A. Aleardi30 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011gheraV. Monviso V. MonvisoV. F. LondonioV. Andrea Massena V. MoscatiV. N. MachiavelliLuxury shoppingBreraV. G. RevereV. PetrarcaV. P. TamburiniV. XX SettembreV. G. RovaniV. degli OlivetaniStazioneV. A. SaffiV. B. ZenaleV. E. AlemagnaV. Luigi NonoV. Paolo Sarpi V. Paolo SarpiV. G. LeopardiV. de TogniV. OlonaV. AribertoV. MessinaV. RosminiV. Luigi CanonicaV. A. BertaniV. CarroccioV. BoccaccioV. Giosuè CarducciV. E. De AmicisV. AusonioV.le GoriziaV. MessinaV. SimonettaV.le Gabriele d’AV. G. B. NiccoliniV. d’OggionoCorso C.Colombo Corso GenovaV. G. GiustiV.le W. GoetheV. TerraggioV. S. VincenzoV. LanzoneV. Cesare Sesto V. G. FerrariP.taGenova FSDP.zaCoriolanoThis centrally locateddistrict L.gois named after viaGramsciBrera which,L.go C.since the 18thcentury, Gadda has housed thefamous AccademiaL.go L.di BelleMediciArti. One of the liveliestareas in the city, its narrowcobbled streets host anumber of interesting chicV. S. CalogeroDarsenCimiteroMonumentaleP.za S. S.TrinitàV.le ElveziaV.le GadioV.le MaltaForo BuonaparteCorso MagentaV. Conca del NaviglioP.leCimiteroMonumentaleV. S. ValeriaV. CeresioPORTAVOLTAV.le MontelloV. CorrentiV. ArenaV. BramanteV. P. CapuccioV. CollodiCorso di Porta TicineseV. Carlo FariniBastioni diPorta VoltaV. LegnanoV.le GadioV. S.G.sul MuroV. S. M.PortaV.le CrispiV. Alessandro VoltaForo BuonaparteV. DanteV. MeravigliCorso GaribaldiV. Molino delle ArmiCorso ComoV. P. BorsieriCorso Italia Corso ItaliaBastioni di Porta NuovaV. Moscova V. MoscovaV. Sant’OrsolaPta.P.zaBaiamontiP.le LegaLombardaP.za CastelloV. TorinoV. Guglielmo PepeV. Maurizio QuadrioV. MaroncelliV.le PasubioV. S. M.FulcorinaV. PontaccioV. MercatoV. S. MaurilloParco delleBasilicheV. Santa CrocebucoV. PalermoV. SolferinoV. DiscipliniV. OreficiV. TorinoV. CornaggiaV. OlmettoCorso GaribaldiV. F. ChiariV.PiattiV. BrolettoV. CrocefissoV. C. Del FanteV. San LucaV. De CristoforisV. SolferinoS. MariaIncoronataL.go MoscovaLa FoppaV. BreraV. dell’OrsoV.le Monte GrappaV. San MarcoV. G. VerdiCorso Porta NuovaV. FatebenefratelliV. S.MargheritaV. ConfalonieriV. De CastilliaStazionePorta GaribaldiP.taGaribaldi FSP.le XXVTeatroAprile SmeraldoPortaGaribaldiPORTATENAGLIAV.le L. SturzoV. CastelfidardoV. MontebelloCorso di Porta RomanaV. G. MercalliV. San MV. AlbricciV. Santa Sofiadi SavoiaV. Melchiorre GioiaOspedaleFatebenefratelliV. AnnunciataV. Alessandro ManzoniV. S. CalimeroV.le Monte SantoV. MontenapoleoneV. BigliV. LargaV. SassettiL.go DeBenedettiPta.NuovaGioiaV. AppianiV. F. TuratiCorso MatteottiCorso V. Emanuele IIV. F. d. PerdonoV. Vignoni V. QuadronnoV. PirelliV. Francesco SforzaCorso Porta VigV. GalileiRepubblicaV. Daniele ManinV. SenatoV. della SpigaV. S. AndreaV. d. SignoraV.CardanoV. Gen. G. FaraP.za dellaRepubblicaV. PalestroV. DuriniCorso EuropaV. CervaV. GuastallaV. Fabio FilziCorso VeneziaV. Visconti di MV. della CommendaV. GalGrattaPP.za S.Gioachino RepubbliSocietà per le AmericanFondazioneBelle Arti ed Contourellaantique shops, P.za galleries,Museo L.EsposizioneP.zaSempioneovanniP.za deiArenaMinguzzi Chiesa Anglicana Permanentecafés,XXIIIVolontarirestaurants Arco and bars. CivicaS. AngeloL.goIts neighbouring Corpus dellaGiardinDoministreets, Mon.PaceTrevesNapoleone AcquarioPubblicBasilica di Sanincluding corso Garibaldi IIITuratiCivicoSimplicianoStudio MuseoCivTorreTreccaniand corso Como,Brancaare homeS. Marco QuesturaParcoto several of the trendiest SempioneTeatro BRERAStrehlerP.zaS. MarcoP.zaL.go addresses V in the city.Cavour GalleriaAlpiniTriennale - MuseoPinacotecad’ArtePalazzod’Arte Antica Lanzadi BreraModernadell’Artee Pinacoteca Brera S. Maria del Museo delCarmine ●RisorgimentoAngela Caputi MontenapoleonePalazzoCastellodel SenatoGiuggiùSforzesco● ProfumoP.zaStazioneTommaseoCadornaP.leLa Traviata ●Malpensa CadornaL.goExpress Cadorna FNM CairoliP.za P.zaConciliazione GiovineTriennaleTeatroCairoliP.zaConciliazione Italia Cenacoloalla ScalaL.godella ScalaP.za S.VincianoMattioliTAS. NicolaoBabilaS. MariaL.go P.PalazzoPal. Marino S. BabilaP.le F.della GrazieBaraccad’Ancona LittaMunicipioPalazzoGalleriaMuseo Teatrale delleVittorioP.zaBorsa Cordusio Cordusio Emanuele IIalla Scala StellineMuseoArcheologicoBiblioteca Duomo DuomoPinacoteca P.za delP.za S.Ambrosiana DuomoS. VittoreAmbrogioPalazzoal CorpoRealeV. VerziereBasilica diS. AmbrogioP.zaP.za S.S. AmbrogioCoCarceriUniversitàP.zaStefanoS. VittoreCattolicaMentanaS. Satiro DiazAngela Museo Nazionale Caputi La Traviata Profumodella Scienzaledel Sacro Cuoree della TecnicaP.zaileiaGiuggiùS. BernardinoMissorialle MonacheL.goMissori TorreA brand renowned throughout the world.This sophisticated, elegant restaurantA reference point for the lovers of GiardinoCarrobbioVelascadellaSophisticated, original creations made P.za offers cuisine inspired by longstandingexclusive perfumes and fragrances. Università GuastallaResistenzaS. Naz.Sinagogfrom unusual materials such as plasticMilanese and Lombardy tradition. ServingInaugurated in 1984,P.zaPartigianaBasilicaMaggiorethis shopand resin, combined to create uniquewholly organic ingredients P.zaS. Agostino S. AgostinoAntica Pta. S. Lorenzo selected fordistinguishes itself from other moreErculea P.za S. Ospedaleobjects both in terms of colour and shape. their freshness Ticineseand quality, Maggiore it offers menustraditional venues by offering a selectionNazaro MaggioreA magical blend of contemporary andinspired by mittel-Lombardia tradition,of exclusive products that celebrateP.zaP.za S.di the Milano art -Parcoclassical taste. M2 Lanza. (p. 22 and 32)upgraded in a modern-day Vetra key. Open daily.of Eufemia perfume, the result of in-depth research PoliclinicoSolariby its owner, Nicoletta Astori.www.angelacaputi.comwww.hotelmilanoscala.itAnfiteatroTeatroTeatroRomanoS. Paolo S. Maria dellaCarcanoVia Madonnina, 11Via dell’Orso, 7LiberoP.leConverso Via Brera, 6VisitazioneT: 02 86461080CantoreT: 02 870961T: 02 72023334CrocettaMuseoDiocesanoES. Antonioda PádovaBasilica S. Eustorgioe Cappella PortinariTeatro delBurattoFS. Mariapresso S. CelsoPORTANUOVAGCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2011. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot acceptresponsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originallydesigned and produced by CM Cartographics.V.le TV.leV. MBasV. SDamianV. RonchettiV. BaV. FreV. SV.V.Corso di Porta Romana

Shoppingname from the vehicle’s body shape and thehigh-pitched noise of the two-stroke engine.An icon, since 1946, of design and Italian style,it is sold throughout the world. In addition tostocking the legendary scooter manufacturedby Piaggio, it also sells accessories and gadgets:sweatshirts, tops, bags, watches, mugs andplaques. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat9.30am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.vespa.com.Viale V. Veneto, 12. T: 02 29513036. M1 PortaVenezia. Map H3CosmeticsGIORGIO ARMANI—Giorgio Armani’s prestigiousboutique can be found in the centre of Milan’sfashion district. This legend of “Made-in-Italy”elegance and style requires no introduction.The superlative quality of his cosmetics andfragrances for men and women are guaranteedby the Armani brand name. Expert consultantsare available to offer you advice about thestore’s host of body, face and make-up products.Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. www.armaniviamanzoni31.it.Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 723181.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE—This cosmeticscompany, founded in France in 1976, has threestores in Milan, all of which are very central andeasily accessible by the underground. Theirwelcoming shops offer a vast selection of naturalproducts: soaps, face and body creams, perfumesand maquillage. Their karité butter based creamsare absolutely fantastic. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.loccitane.com. Via Dante, 12. T: 02 809913. M1Cordusio.. Map E5MAZZOLARI—The legendary Mazzolari perfumeryis located in a highly central position, just underthe arches of Corso Monforte. It now also offersa beauty salon where you can enjoy bodytreatments and facials. Established in 1888 as abarber’s shop, it stocks several exclusive lines.Courteous, competent service. Open Mon-Sat8.30am-7.30pm. www.mazzolari.net. CorsoMonforte, 2/4. T: 02 783540. M1 San Babila. Map G4SEPHORA—The fabulous Sephora beauty store,with branches throughout the world, will notgo unnoticed. Free access to all products andhostesses available for expert advice. A vastselection of products and samples galore. Youcan also have your nails and eyebrows done(booking required). Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-10pm. www.sephora.it. Corso Vittorio EmanueleII, 24/28. T: 02 76280495. M1 San Babila. Map G5EyewearSALMORAGHI & VIGANÒ—One of the bestknownopticians in Italy, with 14 stores scatteredthroughout the city, it offers a vast range ofglasses, sunglasses and contact lenses. Limitededitions and exclusive previews of the bestinternational brands also available. A new pairof glasses in just 60 minutes plus personalizedaesthetic advice. Open Mon-Sat 9am-8pm; Sun10am-8pm. www.salmoiraghievigano.it. PiazzaSan Babila corner of corso G. Matteotti. T: 0276000100. M1 San Babila. Map G4Factory OutletsCOMEI & CO. OUTLET— A vast assortment of sportsgear, this season’s and seconds. Sartorial-stylejackets and quilted down jackets from leadingbrand names distributed by Comei: Add, 313 andAnno Zhero. Open Tues-Fri noon-6pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Via privata R. Carriera, 7. T: 02 42414888. M1Bande Nere. Off MapFloristsAU NOME DE LA ROSE—A tiny shop, open 7 days aweek, which, each morning, receives thousandsof rose buds from all over the world. Elegantbouquets, bunches of all sizes, sophisticatedcompositions put together by the creativity ofexpert hands. It also offers a number of productsmade from flowers such as cosmetics, perfumes,herbal teas, jams, sweets, chocolates and soaps.The only boutique in Milan offering rose-basedgourmandises. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8.30pm.www.aunomdelarose.com. Piazza Wagner, 1.T: 02 48009254. M1 Wagner. Map B4LE LUIRE—“Le Luire” or rather “Sparkles”. A passionfor flowers, professionalism and a flair for makingunforgettable floral creations. For those insearch of a florist who understands how to makeimportant occasions even more special withbeautiful bouquets, bunches of flowers andfloral compositions put together with taste andoriginality. Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 9am-1pm. www.leluire.sitiwebs.com. ViaPiero della Francesca, 40. T: 02 347010. Map C1MONCEAU FLEURS—A name of internationalrenown, Monceau Fleurs also has a shop in Milanand will sell you flowers until late in the evening,at any time of the year. It carries over 300 varietiesof plants and flowers, exclusive collections ofbouquets and trendy floral compositions. Open7 days, 9am to 9pm. For direct shipping, ask yourhotel concierge. www.monceaufleurs.it. VialeBianca Maria corner of via Raiberti.T: 02 76021753. Map H4PAOLO LATTUADA— A real flower boutique andone of the most exclusive in the city. The shop,owned by the artist-gardener, Paolo Lattuadaoffers customers an emotional experience,drawing inspiration from essential elements suchas the air, stones and water: a creative laboratoryfor highly original, sophisticated creations. OpenMon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.paololattuada.it. Via Molino delle Armi,19. T:+39.02.58305078. M3 Crocetta. Map F6Food & WineENOTECA COTTI—A “not-to-be-missed” address forwine lovers. Opened in 1906, Cotti is one of thebest stocked wine bars in the city. Enter an oldworldatmosphere, boasting impressively stockedshelves and an extraordinary selection of wines andspirits. In addition to wine and champagne, it alsooffers a wide array of grappa, whisky, cognac, rumand liqueurs from all over the world. You can alsopurchase gastronomic specialities as well as typicalItalian cakes and pastries. Closed on Sun and Mon.www.enotecacotti.it. Via Solferino, 42. T: 02 6572995.T+39.02.29001096. M2 Moscova. Map F2PECK—A paradise for food lovers. At this high-classdelicatessen, for years an authentic temple ofMilanese taste, you will find the best of Italianexcellence, from cured meats to sauces, from winesto liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread outover three floors, Peck is also a great place for anunforgettable stopover, thanks to its large samplingareas. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim,achieved through a careful selection of productsfrom all over the world. A totally worthwhilegastronomic experience. Closed on Sun. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo, M1Cordusio. Map F5Home Decor & FabricsALESSI—The art of living according to a companythat has always been defined as an “art factory”. Itoffers tableware, small electrical appliances, cookingSporting IdeasSeventy five years ago, aMilanese technician namedLuigi Polenghi, the inventorof a revolutionary mechanicalsystem still used on the bestbicycles today, also inventeda camp bed. Polo Sport, thehistoric piazza Wagner premisesselling sports items, was infact opened to market thisnew, ultra-comfortable itemfor outdoor use. Though stillretaining its old-world charm,the business is now run by theDe Masis family. An idea-filledvenue for sports lovers. Map B4www.wheretraveler.com 31

Shoppingutensils and bathroom accessories signed by someof the most renowned names in international design.Alessi is famed for its surprising, innovative andplayful inventions, the hallmark feature of the brand.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.alessi.com. Corso G. Matteotti, 9. T: 02 795726. M1 SanBabila. Map G4ARFORM—Opened it doors in 1955 and is still awonderful oasis of Scandinavian design in the heartof Milan. It mainly offers objects for the home butalso a range of personal items. You will find cool,sleek table linens in natural colours, glorious cottonitems, stylish tableware from Finland and the latestkitchen implements from Denmark. It also stocksstrikingly beautiful glassware and wooden itemsenhanced by the skilful use of colour. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.arform.it. Via Moscova, 22. T: 02 6554691.M2 Moscova. Map F3ARTEMIDE—Located inside the historic Palazzo PoldiPezzoli, the shop is given over entirely to lighting.Lamps and light systems boasting cutting-edgetechnology plus a design consultancy service forarchitects, lighting designers and members of theindustry. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.artemide.com. Via A. Manzoni, 12.T: 02 778712201. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4BELLORA—Founded in 1883, Bellora is the finesthome linen manufacturer in Italy. Boasting years ofexperience, research and technological innovation,with Bellora, linen stars in every room of the house,for a spontaneous, fresh lifestyle marked by simplicityand elegance. The store specializes in crisp, all-seasonlinens. As delicate as the products look, everythingexcept the cashmere and wool throws is washable.Also features a cosy nightwear selection inc silkychemises and lightweight robes. In addition tothree shops (via Monti, 27; via Durini, 17; via Manzoni,43) Bellora also has corners in the Coin flagshipstores. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.www.bellora.it. Via Manzoni, 43. T: 02 6596361. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4CASSINA—An elegant, sophisticated space, located inthe highly central Via Durini, for a brand that boastsover 80 years in the industry. There is something toexcite the eyes of all design lovers (including thelegendary chaise longue by Le Corbusier). Cassinacontinues to produce sophisticated, elegantfurniture created by some of the best designers inthe world. Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cassina.com. Via Durini, 16. T: 02 76020745.M1 San Babila. Map G5DE PADOVA—A temple of high-class Italian design,each floor of its flagship store is dedicated to aspecific sector – bedroom furniture, living-roomfurniture, accessories, office furniture – all featuringsimple, clean-cut, classic contemporary lines. Primeexamples are the items designed by Vico Magistretti.In addition to its own brand, it also offers a smallselection of limited edition accessories chosenfrom among the best brands. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.depadova.it. Corso Venezia, 14. T: 02 777201. M1 San Babila, M1Palestro. Map H3GUZZINI—An exhibition space located in the heartof Brera, one of the most evocative districts in thecity, boasting a “total white” look. On display, you willfind limited edition tableware and homeware. Theperfect place to admire the entire product rangewhile enjoying a cup of Lavazza coffee offered bythe company. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.fratelliguzzini.com. Via Pontaccio, 8/10.T: 02 72095122. M2 Lanza. Map E4ITALHOME—A company boasting more than twentyyears in the production of chairs, armchairs andsofas, Italhome represents the best of Made-in-Italycraftsmanship and offers an excellent selection ofhigh-class products at affordable prices. More than150,000 chairs sold to 20,000 satisfied customerstestifies to its reputation as a leading furniturecompany. Also offers consultancy and assistance.Opening hours of showroom: Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.pianetasedia.com.Largo Treves, 2. T: 02 6551787/683. M2 Moscova, M3Turati. Map F3SPAZIO PONTACCIO—Overlooking Via Pontaccio,it stocks an interesting mix of international andItalian classic and modern design furniture. Frenchstyledecò drawers stand alongside warm,contemporary tables, sofas and bookshelves. Aninspirational selection of accessories. For thosewho enjoy fusion with style. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.spaziopontaccio.it. ViaPontaccio, 18. T: 02 8057025. M2 Lanza. Map F3VILLEROY BOCH—The hallmark features of Villeroy& Boch are quality, image, elegance, harmony anddesign. The company boasts years of experiencein the field of product design and interior design.Courteous service and an array of innovativeproducts, Villeroy Boch epitomizes elegance andsophistication. Over the years, it has developed froma manufacturer of high-quality ceramic products toan internationally renowned lifestyle brand. OpenTues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroy-boch.com. ViaMontebello, 35. T: 02 65584928. M3 Turati. Map F3Jewellery & WatchesANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ—The brand is renownedthroughout the world. Sophisticated, originalcreations made from unusual materials such asplastic and resin, combined to create unique objectsboth in terms of colour and shape. Her creationshave been used as accessories by famous televisionand film producers. The accessory as a focal point,capable of creating a look or dressing up any typeof garment. A magical blend of contemporary andclassical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm; 2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11.T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4BUCCELLATI—Heir to a tradition that dates back to the18th century and a favourite with the royal families ofEurope, Buccellati offers stunning designs featuringa “tulle, lace or honeycomb” effect. Also known forits silver and extraordinary animal collections. OpenMon-Sat 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.buccellati.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76002153. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4BULGARI—Among the most noteworthy names inthe world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since thevery beginning, Bulgari has been a reference pointfor luxury jewellery. It also carries watches, fragrances,accessories and small table items. Its most famouscollection is the “Bzero1”, originally crafted in goldand subsequently embellished with diamonds andprecious stones. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 777001.M1 San Babila. Map G4CARTIER—In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is alsofamous as a luxury maker of watches, secondonly in the world to Rolex. Renowned for itsdesign and technology, Cartier’s steel watches areembellished with details in gold, platinum anddiamonds. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Fri-Sat 10am-7pm.www.cartier.it. Via del Gesù, 2. T: 02 3030421. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4DABBENE—The tradition of old Milanese workshopscombined with the innovation required by morediscerning customers. Its well-equipped laboratorymakes hand-crafted objects to order and engravingsto satisfy all types of customization requirements.Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. www.argenteriadabbene.com. Largo Treves, 2. T: 02 6554406. M2Moscova. Map F3DAMIANI—Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani hasa long goldsmithing tradition which it has alwaysinterpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, arefined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit,are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelryreproposed in a flagship store designed by AntonioCitterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’sjewelry collections, which are admired throughoutthe world for their jewelry to be realized by mastergoldsmiths in full accordance with the best ItalianRolexOfficial Retailers in Milan◗ Rolex Flagship Store / Pisa OrologeriaVia Montenapoleone, 24◗ Gobbi 1842Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15◗ Luigi VergaVia Mazzini corner of via DoganaCorso Vercelli, 7◗ Rocca 1794Piazza Duomo, 25◗ RonchiVia Gonzaga, 532 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

MILAN STYLELINGOTTINOEstablished in 1990, it offers handcrafted jewellery based on itsown designs. Precious accessories and unique items ranging frommini-earrings to diamond chokers, created with the utmost care.Its growing customer portfolio celebrates its success in thecreation of sophisticated, minimalist masterpieces. Locatedinside a sixteenth century palazzo, between via Torino and corsoMagenta, it is open from Monday to Friday at the following times:Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. M1 Cordusio.Map E5www.lingottino.itVia Santa Marta, 10 – T: 02 72022203More info: www.wheremilan.comPETTINAROLIFounded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, itis considered one of the oldest venues in the city. Since itsinception, the shop has been a reference point for style andelegance in writing paper, business cards, printed documents,desk items and photo albums in beautifully handcrafted leatheraccording to time-honoured Italian tradition. The basement floorhouses a vast assortment of prints and antique maps. Open Mon3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4www.fpettinaroli.it • www.pettinarolimapsandprints.comPiazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino)T: 02 86464642-1875More info: www.wheremilan.comSTIVALERIA SAVOIAFounded in the 1920s as the official bootmaker to the Savoy regiment,it is the shoemaker-of-choice for all those who are passionate abouthunting, riding or polo. Today, it makes bespoke all-purpose bootsand shoes handcrafted by artisans. The establishment carries bothready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections. In addition tofootwear, it also sells dresses, shirts and small leather goods, alsocustomized to suit individual requirements. Open Mon 3-7pm;Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm; 2.30-7pm. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4www.stivaleriasavoia.itVia Petrarca, 7 corner of via V. Monti – T: 02 463424More info: www.wheremilan.comI SANTIA well-established historic Milanese brand which createsnot only handbags and accessories for women but alsoa travel&business men’s line. A perfect blend of superiorcraftsmanship, supreme quality skins and Italian design, withpainstaking attention to details. The brand, synonymous withquality and a meticulous eye for detail, exports throughout theworld. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9am-7.30pm. M3Porta Romana. Map H7www.isanti.itCorso Lodi, 1 - T: 02 55185925More info: www.wheremilan.comwww.wheretraveler.com 33

Shoppingtradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4DODO—The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995,by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift orcollection purposes. It sells an array of animal charmpieces, each of which has a particular meaning.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dodo.it. Corso Venezia, 8. T: 02 76317581. M1 SanBabila. Map G4GIOIELLERIA FARAONE—For Milanese people viaMontenapoleone is synonimous with luxury, andFaraone Jewerly used to be for the rich milanesefamilies one of the few reserved keepers of familysecrets. Marriages, births, events in the life of theaffluent customers were often celebrated with a visitto this paradise of shining objects. As confidents theowners respected their customers privacy. Todayyou can find the same reserved ambience andspectacular jewels. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 19.T: 02 76319153. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4KIDULT—Showroom featuring highly original jewellery(necklaces, bracelets and rings) created as uniquepieces and customizable in shape, colour andmaterials. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.kidult.net.Via Pontaccio, 3. T: 02 72080271. M2 Lanza. Map E3LINGOTTINO—Just a short distance from via Torinoand corso Magenta, Lingottino offers beautifulhandcrafted pieces. Unique items, ranging from tinyearrings to diamond chokers. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.lingottino.it. ViaSanta Marta, 10. T: 02 72022203. M1 Cordusio. Map E5MASCHIO GIOIELLI—A Milanese jewellery brand,established in 1988 by Dario Maschio, designer ofrings, earrings and bracelets that can be assembledand personalized with a choice of over 800 charmsand coloured semi-precious stones. All the lines aredistinguished by a linear, clean-cut design. Creativity,elegance and innovation interpreted in various tonesof gold, from yellow to pink right up to red. You caneither visit their shop in the centre of Milan or viewtheir jewellery on-line. Open Mon-Sun 10,30am-7pm.www.maschiogioielli.it. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17.T: 02 76004188. M1 San Babila. Map G5OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA—Vast assortment ofprestigious Swiss watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe,Vacheron&Constantin, Audemars Piguet,Baume&Mercier and Jaeger-Le Coutre. The completecollection of “Luigi Verga Milano” watches, createdin 2002 by the Verga brothers, is also available. OpenMon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.www.luigiverga.it. Via Giuseppe Mazzini, 3. T: 028056521. M1 Duomo. Map F5PASSATEMPO—A shop specializing in the saleof period watches, it not only carries limitededition Rolex watches but also retro Blanc Pain,Patek Philippe, Piaget and Vacheron&Constantintimepieces together with a range of timelessCartiers. An investment or simply a passion. OpenMon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. Viadell’Orso, 18. T: 02 8693491. M1 Cairoli. Map F4PISA OROLOGERIA—A watch lover’s paradise forover 50 years. Prestigious timepieces with particularattention to the latest innovations. Assistancecentre and specialized workshop. Unique giftpackaging with delivery guaranteed to any part ofthe world. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.pisaorologeria.com.Via Pietro Verri corner of via Montenapoleone, 9.T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4POMELLATO—Established in 1967 as an artisanlaboratory and currently a reference point in Italiangold-crafting. Pomellato trends for 2010 includevibrant coloured stones set in red gold, irregular cutsand ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pomellato.it. Via San Pietroall’Orto, 17. T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila. Map G5ROCCA 1794—Master jewellers and watchmakerssince the 18th century, Rocca rates among thefirst importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selectionamong the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex,Breguet, Ulysse Nardin Omega, Cartier, Panerai,Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Salvini, Audemars Piguet,Tag Heuer, Bulgari, Ferrari, Vacheron Constantin,Gucci, Bliss, Eberhard, Jaeger-le Coultre, Chopard,Versace, Locman, Iwc, Vertu, Tudor. Rocca garanteesoutstanding levels of competence and expertskillfull consultancy. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5RUBINIA—Boasting years of experience in theworld of fashion and design, in 1986, Ilario Plazzicreated Rubinia, a line of totally unique, alluringjewellery. Each piece is distinguished by its superbhandcrafting and the use of gold, silver, pearls, gemsand semi-precious stones. A must-have item fordiscerning women. Two locations (via Monti andlargo V Alpini). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.rubinia.com. Via V. Monti, 26. T: 02 43986440. M1-M2Cadorna FN. Map D4SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUE—An iconic symbol of luxuryshopping, it offers the best of jewellery, key rings,watches, objets d’art and, naturally, the famousanimal figurine collectables inc the best of precisioncutcrystal glass and related luxury objects. OpenMon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. www.swarovski.com. ViaDante, 15. T: 02 89092256. M1 Cordusio. Map E4SWATCH—The secrets of the Swatch success areappealing design at affordable prices. In additionto its classical plastic styles, it now also offers newversions ranging from Irony (in metal) to SKIN Chrono(the thinnest chronograph in the world) to Snowpass(with an integrated access function that can be usedas a ski pass) and Beat (featuring an Internet Timefunction). It also stocks jewellery and specials. Severalstores located throughout the city (corso BuenosAires, 64; via Montenapoleone, 12; corso Vercelli, 3;corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15; corners at Coin, piazzaCinque Giornate; corso di Porta Ticinese, 58). OpenMon-Sun 10am-8pm. www.swatch.com. CorsoVittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76000520.M1 San Babila. Map G5TIFFANY & CO.—This world-renowned jeweller hasfour flagship stores in Milan, Florence, Bologna andRome. Located in the heart of Milan’s fashion district,it carries an exclusive selection of classically simplePROEDICOMUNICAZIONE – PHOTO BY ANDREA DEL COTTOPinko • Laltramoda • Flavio CastellaniManila Grace • French Connection • SevenCusto • Vero Moda • Object • MetVia V. Monti, 47 ~ Via Belfiore, 7 ~ Via Lorenteggio, 55Corso Genova, 1534 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2011. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publisherscannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of thepublishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics.220 Domodossola21713 San6MediciXXIIIL.go19 FieraV. SenofonteSiroAfrica12 Milano 13P.za G.22 23 Amendola 211PalazzoP.le GiulioP.ledelloP.le3 P.za VI Cesare V.le BelisarioArduinoSport Amendola Febbraio10Italia 4 Fiera Sacra Shopping9Under ConstructionFamigliaL.gP.zaP.zaAlp(2007 – 2014) 5SempioneGiovanniP.za dei8 7 6XXIIIVolontari ArcoLuxury shopping SanL.go V. SenofonteCorpus dellaSiroMonAfricaCasa P.zaDomini Pace NapoP.za G.IIIVercelli-Belfiore-Marghera 3Verdi BuonarrotiAmendolaBuonarrotiP.le GiulioTorreCesare V.le BelisarioBrancaAmendola 4S. PietroThis area, beginningin SalaTFieraPaganoSacraL.go Vat Porta Magenta, isFamigliaP.za AlpiniTriennalWagnerPalazzo P.zaConciliazioone of Milan’s chicest,P.zaWagnerdell’ArteDe AngeliPORTAConciliazionemost upmarketCasa P.za De AngeliP.zaMAGENTAVerdi BuonarrotiTeatro PiemonteP.le F.districts: a residentialNazionaleL.go BaraccaBuonarrotiSettimoP.zaSeveroMuse Sarea, still inhabited 4S. PietroTommaseoCin Sala Pagano P.za Siciliaby Milan’s upperAnimal House ● MalpensaP.zaExpresscrust, it epitomizes5 WagnerP.za P.zaConciliazione GiovineP.zaWagnerDe AngeliConciliazione Italia Cenacolothe traditional soulPORTAVincianoDe AngeliP.zaMAGENTAS. Mariaof the city and is●°Old ToysTeatro PiemonteP.le F. P.zadella Grazie Carceri L.goNazionaleL.go Baraccad’Ancondistinguished by its●° PoSettimoPalazzo S. Vittore●DenzelSevero P.zaMuseo Teatrale P.leMujidelleair of sophistication,IrnerioAquileiaalla Scala StellineP.za Siciliaelegance and stunningP.zaVesuvioresidential architecture.5TripoliLEGENDS. Vittoreal CorpoThe area is renowned6 InformationMarketS. Ambrogiofor several of the bestP.zaCarceri Museo NazionalePoParcoS. Vittoredella Scienzashopping addressesP.zaP.lee della TecnicaSolarPlace of InterestChurchIrnerioAquileiaP.zain town.BazziViewpointMuseum P.zaVesuvioTrain StationP.zaTripoliRosarioLEGEND TheatreP.zaS. Agostino S. Agostino6Metro StationCONCHETTAInformationMarketShoppingParcoS7Cycle PathPta.ChurchSolariPlace of InterestP.zaPost Office Bazzi Swimming Pool TeatroViewpointLiberoP.leMuseumCantoreMercPolicedell'AntiquTrain StationP.zaParkingRosarioTheatreAMetro StationCONCHETTA BCCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken P.ta to check the accuracy of the informShoppingStazione Genova FS7Cycle PathPta. GénovaVic.S. Maria LavandaiPost Officeal NaviglioSwimming PoolMercatonePoliceParkingdell'AntiquariatoNAVIAnimal HouseAMujiBOld ToysC DVV. Guglielmo SiV. S. Del PiomboV. Monte BiancoV. VolpedoV. Mosè BianchiV. DomenichinoV. G. PreviatiV. F. FaruffiniContemporary menswear stocking awide selection of international brands atthis store created as an offshoot of Host(see listing). Animal House is graduallybecoming a destination address for menin the know. M1 Conciliazione, M1-M2Cadorna. (p. 27)V. F. AlbaniV.le Ergisto BezziV. Carlo RavizzaV. A. MarioV. Giuseppe FruaV. dei GracchiV.le EginardoV. BerengarioV. Correggio.le del LavoroV. A. SpinolaV.le EzioV. Monte RosaV. V. ColonnaV. MargheraV. Michelangelo BuonarrotiV.le d.ComeméricoV.le dell’IndustriaV. GiottoV. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio TizianoV. L. SaccoV. SardegnaV. G. del MainoV. P. CavalcabòV. RoncagliaV. Giorgio WashingtonV. VolpedoV. DomenichinoV. G. PreviatiV. F. FaruffiniV.MonferratoV. ElbaV. S. CabotoV. G. BoniV. Mosè BianchiV. Carlo RavizzaV. A. MarioV. Giuseppe FruaV.le Ergisto BezziV.le S. BoezioV.le CassiodoroV. della RobbiaV. Pier CapponiV. dei GracchiV. D. CimarosaV. San EusebioV. PolibioV. AlessandriV. BereV. CorreggioV. PanziniV. BelfioreV. Giuseppe DezzaV. Francesco FerruccioV. RossettiCorso VercelliV. Paolo GiovioV. VergaV. StromboliV. CaliforniaV. TortonaV.V. Ippolito NievoV. Leone XIIIV. G. PallavicinoV. Egadi V. LipariV. Moisé LoriaV. StendhalV. A. SpinolaV.le EzioV. Monte RosaV. V. ColonnaV. MargheraCavalleriaSavoiaV. da GiussanoV. RasoriV. B. Panizzaorso SempioneV. A. CanovaCorso MagentaV. San VittoreV. F. Melzi D’ErilV. Vincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo MontiV. ReggimentoV. Mario PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsoV. Vincenzo FoppaV. ValparaisoV. BergognoneV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascheroniV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV. Andrea SolariV. SavonaV. Andrea Massena V. MoscatV. TassoV. M. BandelloV.le G. MiltonV. Gian Battista VicoV.le Papiniano V.le PapinianoV. CeranoV. VogheraV. N. MachiavelliV. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio TizianoV. L. SaccoV. SardegnaV. TortonaioV. G. RevereV. PetrarcaV. P. TamburiniV. G. RovaniV. Giuseppe DezzaV. degli OlivetaniV.le Coni ZugnaV. VentimigliaV. TortonaV. XX SettembreV. ValenzaV. A. SaffiV. B. ZenaleV. G. LeopardiV. OlonaV. AribertoV. E. AlemagnaV. de TogniminiV. Luigi CanV. A. BertaniV. Cesare SestoV. Giosuè CarducciV. E. De AmicV.le GoriziaV. SimV.le GabVCorso C.Colombo CorsoV. VigevanoV. CarroccioV. AusonioRipa di Porta TicinesNaviglio GrandeStrada Alzaia Naviglio GrandeV.lV. BoccaccV. TerraggiV. LaV. S. VincenzoV. S. CalogeroCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibiDistinguished by its minimalism designand eco-friendly approach, this store is apart of the famous chain of “made-in-Japan” furniture, clothing and high-techitems. M1 Conciliazione. (p. 28)V. G. del MainoV. P. CavalcabòV. RoncagliaV. Michelangelo BuonarrotiV. Giorgio WashingtonV. ElbaV. S. CabotoV. G. BoniV. GiottoV.MonferratoV.le CaV. della RobbiaV. Pier CapponiV. D. CimarosaV. San EusebioV. PolibioV. AlessandriV. PanziniV. IppoV. RossettiCorso VercelliV. Paolo GiovioV. VergaV. Egadi V. LipariV. StromboliV. Moisé LoriaV. StendhalV. CaliforniaV. TortonaV. Leone XIIIV. da GiussanoV. G. PallavicinoV. RasoriV. B. PanizzaAn historic shop that still retains itsold-world atmosphere. Porcelain dollsand brightly coloured merry-go-rounds,antique musical boxes, snow globesand fairytales. A wide range of highlyspecialized items, sought after throughoutEurope and the US. M1 Conciliazione.(p. 37)CavalleriaSavoiaV. Vincenzo MontiV. ReggimentoV. Mario PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsoV. Vincenzo FoppaV. ValparaisoV. BergognoneV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV. Andrea SolariV. Savona. N. MaV. TassCorV. SanV. M. BanV.le PapiniaV. CeranoV. VogheraVV. TortonaDarsenVia A. Saffi, 7T: 02 4694900www.muji.euCorso Vercelli, 11T: 02 48517578www.oldtoys.itCorso Vercelli, 2T: 02 48006604www.wheretraveler.com 35

V. MazziniBullonaneDezzaéV. P. d. FrancescaV. Francesco FerruccioV. Fratelli IndDistrict P.zaof Ideaspione Corso SempioneV. MussiV. Domodossola V. Polizianoaa VIbraioV. RossettiniVercelliaolo GioviorgaoliiforniaV. Ippolito NievoV. Leone XIIIV. da GiussanoV. G. PallavicinoV. RasoriV. LipariV. F. FilelfoCavalleriaSavoiaV. B. PanizzaVP.zaGiovanniXXIIIIt is known as “la grande Brera” or alsoL.gothe “District Gramsci of Ideas”: one of the mostevocative districts L.go C. in Milan’s historicGaddacentre, since the very beginning itL.go L.has boasted a longstanding Medici historyP.za S. S.of art and culture. Home to the Trinitàfamous Accademia di Belle Arti andthe headquarters of Italy’s mostimportant newspaper, the “Corrieredella Sera”, the area running P.za from viaP.za dei SempioneBrera to via Volontari Solferino is Arco populatedCorpus dellawith galleries Domini and shops dedicated Mon.Pace Napoleoneto design, fashionable boutiquesIIIandTorrepicturesque cafés. In Branca the evening,Parcoshopping gives way to a trendy Sempionenightlife L.go Vatmosphere as its charmingAlpiniTriennale -cobbled streets fill up with stalls,Palazzodell’Artestreet musicians and visitors.V. Giulio C. ProcacciniV. A. CanovaCorso MagentaV. San VittoreV. F. Melzi D’ErilV. Vincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo MontiV. ReggimentoV. Mario PaganoV. S. Michele del CarsoV. Vincenzo FoppaV. ValparaisoV. BergognoneV. L. CastelV. Lodovico AriostoV. Lorenzo MascheroniV.le di Porta VercellinaV. MontevideoV. Andrea SolariV. SavonaGerusalemmeSolferinoV. TassoV. M. BandelloNicolò TartagliaV. Paolo LomazzoV.le G. MiltonV. Gian Battista VicoV. Giulio C. ProcacciniV. G. B. BertiniV.le Papiniano V.le PapinianoV. CeranoV. VogheraV. TortonaV. Monviso V.V. F. LondonioV. Andrea Massena V. MoscatiV. N. MachiavelliV. G. RevereV. PetrarcaV. P. TamburiniV. G. RovaniV. degli OlivetaniV.le Coni ZugnaV. VentimigliaV. TortonaV. XX SettembreV. ValenzaV. A. SaffiV. B. ZenaleV. A. AleardiV. E. Alemagnaigi NonoV. Paolo Sarpi V. Paolo SarpiV. OlonaV. AribertoV. RosminiV. Luigi CanonicaV. A. BertaniV. Giosuè CarducciV. E. De AmicisV.le GoriziaV. SimonettaV. G. B. NiccoliniV. d’OggionoV.le ElveziaV.le MaltaV.le Gabriele d’AnnunzioCorso C.Colombo Corso GenovaV. Vigevano. MessinaV. G. LeopardiV. de TogniV. CarroccioV. Ausonioia Naviglio GrandeV. MessinaV. Boccacciorta TicineseV. G. GiustiV.le W. GoetheV. TerraggioV. S. VincenzoV. LanzoneV. Cesare Sesto V. G. FerrariGrandeV. S. CalogeroDarsenaV.le GadioForo BuonaparteCorso MagentaV. Conca del NaviglioV.le GoriziaseP.leCimiteroMonumentaleV. S. Valeriard.rzaV. CeresioPORTAVOLTAV.le MontelloV. CorrentiV. ArenaV. BramanteArenaCivicaV. P. CapuccioV. CollodiCorso di Porta TicineseS.rdoV. Carlo FariniP.zaBaiamontiBastioni diPorta VoltaP.le LegaLombardaAcquarioCivicoV. LegnanoV.le GadioMuseod’Arte Anticae PinacotecaP.za CastelloV. S.G.sul MuroV. S. M.PortaV.le CrispiV. Alessandro VoltaForo BuonaparteV. DanteV. MeravigliCorso GaribaldiV. Molino delle ArmiV.le G. GaleazzoV.le Col di LanaCorso ComoV.Corso Italia Corso ItaliaBastioni di Porta NuovaV. Moscova V. MoscovaV. Sant’OrsolaV. Maurizio QuadrioV. MaroncelliV.le PasubioTeatroStrehlerLanzaBreraV. S. M.FulcorinaV. TorinoV. PontaccioV. MercatoV. S. MaurilloV. Santa CroceV. SambucoS. Antonioda PádovaV. PalermoV. SolferinoV. DiscipliniV. OreficiV. TorinoV. CornaggiaV. OlmettoeCorso GaribaldiV. F. ChiariV.PiattiV. BrolettoV. CrocefissoV. C. Del FanteV. San LucaV. De CristoforisV. SolferinoS. MariaIncoronataL.go MoscovaLa FoppaV. BreraV. dell’OrsoV.le Monte GrappaV. San MarcoV. G. VerdiCorso Porta NuovaV. FatebenefratelliV. S.MargheritaV. De CastilliaStazionePorta GaribaldiP.taGaribaldi FSP.le XXVTeatroAprile SmeraldoPortaGaribaldiPORTATENAGLIAL.goTrevesBasilica di SanSimplicianoV.le L. SturzoV. CastelfidardoFondazioneMuseo L.Minguzzi Chiesa AnglicanaV. MontebelloP.zaS. MarcoPinacotecadi BreraS. Maria del Museo delCarmineRisorgimentoMontenapoleoneV. AlbricciCorso di Porta RomanaV. G. MercalliV. San MartinoV. Santa SofiaV. Melchiorre GioiaOspedaleFatebenefratelliEnoteca N’Ombrade VinLa Tenda ●BRERAV. AnnunciataV. Alessandro ManzoniV. Bianca di SavoiaV. S. CalimeroV.le Monte SantoV. MontenapoleoneV. BigliV. LargaL.go DeBenedettiPta.NuovaGioiaV. AppianiSocietà per leBelle Arti edEsposizionePermanenteS. AngeloV. F. TuratiV. GalileiV. SenatoCorso MatteottiCorso V. Emanuele IIV. F. d. PerdonoV. Vignoni V. QuadronnoV. C. CrivelliV. PirelliPORTANUOVARepubblicaP.za delRepubblAngelicumStudio Museo TuratiTreccaniS. ●MarcoQuesturaCastelloSforzescoP.zaStazioneTommaseoCadornaP.leCadornaL.goCadorna FNM CairoliP.za P.zaTriennaleTeatroConciliazione GiovineCairoliP.zaConciliazione Italia Cenacoloalla ScalaL.goPORTAVincianoLA TENDAdella ScalaMattioliMAGENTAS. NicolaoS. MariaL.go P.PalazzoPal. MarinoSituated in the heart of Brera, this historic boutique is a reference S. BabilaP.le F.della Grazied’Ancona LittaMunicipoL.go Baraccapoint for luxury multi-brand women’s clothing. The ideal placeSettimoPalazzoGalleriafor those who love the best of Italian and interntional prêt-aporterand who wish to update their wardrobes with the latestSeveroMuseo Teatrale delleP.zaVittorioalla Scala StellineBorsa Cordusio Cordusio EmanueleMuseolook in fashion trends. A warm, welcoming atmosphere featuringArcheologicoDuomoelements of contemporary furnishing design.DuomoBibl.Open daily 10am-7pm. M2 Lanza. Map F3P.za delAmbrosianaP.za S.DuomoS. VittoreAmbrogioPalazzoal CorpoV. VerziereBasilica diRealewww.latendamilano.comS. AmbrogioP.zaP.za S.S. AmbrogioVia Solferino angolo via AnconaCarceriUniversitàP.zaStefanoS. Satiro DiazMuseo NazionaleT: 02 6575804S. VittoreCattolicaMentanadella ScienzaMore info: www.wheremilan.comP.ledel Sacre Cuoree della TecnicaP.zaAquileiaS. BernardinoMissorialle MonacheL.goMissori TorreGiardENOTECA N’OMBRA DE VINCarrobbioVelascadeP.zaUniversità GuasNestled in one of Milan’s most romantic areas, right next Resistenza toS. Naz.the magnificent San Marco Church P.za in Brera, this wine shop, PartigianaBasilicaMaggioreP.zainaugurated in S. 1973, Agostino offers S. Italian Agostino and International wines and Antica Pta. S. LorenzoErculea P.za S. OspedaleTicineseMaggiorealso boasts a wide selection of oils, spirits and liqueurs. The shop,Nazaro Maggioredi Milano -which is also Parco a wine bar, is open throughout the day from 9 in theP.zaP.za S.VetraEufemiaPoliclinicomorning Solari to 1am. Closed on Sun. M2 Lanza. Map F3AnfiteatroP.zaTeatrazziTeatroRomanoS. Paolo S. Maria dellaCarcaLiberoP.leConversoCantoreParco delleVisitazioneCrocwww.nombradevin.itBasilicheP.za Via San Marco, 2RosarioT: 02 6599650MuseoHETTA More info: www.wheremilan.comDiocesano Basilica S. EustorgioP.taS. Mariae Cappella PortinariStazione Genova FSpresso S. CelsoPta.Pta. GénovaTicineseVic.S. Maria Lavandai Fiera di P.le XXIV36 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011 al NaviglioSenigallia MaggioP.le di Pta. L.go I. V.le Beatrice d’Este Pta. VMercatoneLodovica D'AragonaVigentinaCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2011. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, thepublishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without thepermission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics.P.zaCavourV. della SpigaV. Francesco SforzaCorso Porta VigentinaV. Daniele ManinVV. d. SignoraVCaP.zGioaAmeriContouV. S. AndreaCorso EuroCorso

Shoppingjewellery and gift items in perfect keeping withthe tradition of its famous New York counterpartfounded in 1837. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.tiffany.com. Via della Spiga, 19/a. T: 02 76022321.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4VHERNIER—A leader in the production of sublimejewellery, this maison is a hot favourite withthe international jet set and specializes in theproduction of highly exclusive, unique pieces.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.vhernier.it. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T: 02 77331560.M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4WINTEX WATCHES BY CALDEX—Stunning andauthentically creative pieces featuring a rangeof exciting colours. These highly contemporarytimepieces represent the new soul of Italianluxury. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1.30pm/2.30pm-5.30pm. www.wintexwatches.com. Via Terraggio,15. T: 02 8063101. M1 Cadorna FN. Map D5Leather & LuggageSERAPIAN—A story of passion, creative genius andcraftsmanship, an exclusive name in high-classleather goods. Serapian boasts two locations: anatelier in via Jommelli, where, since 1945, all ofits collections are produced and a boutique invia della Spiga. The latter offers a special “madeto order” service for those in search of high-classobjects whose every detail can be customized.Its hallmark features are unique, exclusivemade-to-measure products exuding a sense oflow-key luxury. Two locations (via Jommelli andvia della Spiga). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.serapian.com. Via della Spiga, 42. T: 02 280121. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4LingerieCHRISTIES LINGERIE—Sexy, romantic and elegant:at Christies there is something for everyone.Offers a wide variety of seasonal colours andstyles featuring the brand’s famous embroidery.Also carries an interesting selection of swimsuits.Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-8pm. www.christieslingerie.it. Corso Vercelli, 51. T: 02 48022152.M1 Conciliazione. Map C5FRETTE—Up-market fabrics for pyjamas anddressing gowns and a line of ultra-fine lingerie.The Frette philosophy is quality. It will becelebrating 150 years in the business with alimited edition collection. Choose lingerie tomatch your towels and bed linen at its luxeMontenapoleone location. Open Mon-Sat10am-1pm/2.30pm-8pm. www.frette.com. ViaMontenapoleone, 21. T: 02 783950. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4GALLO—Lingerie and socks but also swimsuitswith matching bags, dresses, scarves, ties andhats. Gallo has expanded its range from lingerieto other fashion sectors. Each Gallo creationis distinguished by its unmistakable hallmarkfeatures: brightly coloured stripes and superiorquality fabrics. A number of members of Italy’sbusiness elite “are hooked” on Gallo’s socks – agreat gift idea to break tie and suit monotony.It has several centrally located sales points andcan also be found on the 5th floor of the LaRinascente department store and at airports.Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-8pm. www.gallospa.it. Via A. Manzoni, 16B. T: 02 783602. M3Montenapoleone. Map F4INTIMISSIMI—This lingerie chain for men and womenboasts sales points scattered throughout the city.Featuring classic or trendy lines, the collectionsalways offer new, different items at affordableprices. Pyjamas, bras and briefs in a variety ofcolours but also chic tops and camisoles for elegantevening wear. Open Mon-Sun 9am-9pm. www.intimissimi.it. Galleria Pattari, 2. T: 02 89013705. M1-M3Duomo. Map G5LA PERLA—Sexy, lace-trimmed Italian lingerie atthis luxury store in via Montenapoleone. A heavenfor lingerie addicts who will enjoy browsingamong the latest La Perla collections. Its choicefabrics and elegant lines are a sure guarantee ofquality. A vast assortment of lingerie, swimwearand clothing for women and men. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-8pm. www.laperla.com.Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76000460. M1 SanBabila. Map G4MusicBOTTEGA DISCANTICA—An historic shop forclassical music and a reference point for musicians,musicologists and the lovers of musical art. It offersa vast catalogue of all types of classical music. TheBottega Discantica produces its own CDs based onold and contemporary Italian repertoires performedby musicians and Italian orchestras. Mon 3pm-7pm;Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.discantica.it.Via Nirone, 5. T: 02 862966. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D5RICORDI MEDIA STORE—This is the largest, mostimportant store associated with the historic musicpublishers; this new venue (directly connectedto Libreria Feltrinelli-Duomo), with several floors,offers various listening points, a Box Office counterfor tickets, a rich audio, video and multi-mediacatalogue and areas dedicated to the sale of musicaccessories, musical instruments and sheet music.Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Via U. Foscolo, 3 (Galleria VittorioEmanuele II). T: 02 86460272. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5STRADIVARIUS—Historic record store from which theinternationally-renowned record label originated.Close to piazzale Loreto, Stradivarius specializesmainly in classical music. It stocks rare recordings,imported from abroad, and niche products. It alsooffers a pre-sale ticket service for concerts andperformances. Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.stradivarius.it. Corso BuenosAires corner of via Caretta. T: 02 29400600. M1-M2Loreto. Off MapPassion ShoppingFILOVIA—You bring the design, inscription or logoof your choice and FiloVia will embroider it on anytype of garment, fabric or accessory according toindividual requirements. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm.www.filoviaricami.com. Via V. Monti, 28. T: 02 4815993.M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D4IL CAMEO— Dresses, jackets and outerwear, bagsand pochettes, belts and scarves, pumps andbooties. All unique designer or sartorial pieces,from the 50’s-to-date, selected with total passion.In addition to vintage clothing and accessories, theshop also offers second-hand designer wear anddelightful and, often, rare objets d’art. Open Mon-Sat11am-8pm. www.ilcameo.it. Via San Carpoforo, 6.T:+39.349.2448263. M2 Lanza. Map F4MARINELLA—Established in 1914, the Marinellabrand is known throughout the world for its stylish,hand-made neckties, worn by heads of state,industrial magnates and celebrities. In addition tothe legendary shop - still located in Naples - andits sophisticated Milan boutique, E. Marinella tiesare also sold at its single-brand store in Tokyo. Newopenings are scheduled in Lugano in November2010 and in London at the beginning of 2011.Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.marinellanapoli.it. Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 5. T: 0286467036. M1 Cordusio. Map F5MONTBLANC—A legendary manufacturer of finewriting instruments and sophisticated, high-qualitywatches and jewellery. The product range alsoIncludes eyewear and leather goods. Two locationsIn the city (via Montenapoleone and corso Vercelli).Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.montblancitalia.it. Via Montenapoleone, 27B. T: 02 76317720. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4OLD TOYS—An historic shop that still retains itsold-world atmosphere. Porcelain dolls and brightlycoloured merry-go-rounds, antique musical boxes,Book of the MonthA suggestion from Peter Panton,owner of Panton’s EnglishBookshop, a favourite haunt ofinternational book lovers in Milan.“You’ll soon get the hang of it”,the side-splitting bestseller, supported byparallel texts in English, French, Spanish,German and Italian, is bound to amuseand entertain readers and help themexplore their way through the jungle ofeveryday idiomatic usage. Now availableat Panton’s English Bookshop.www.panton.it. Via L. Mascheroni, 12.T: 02 4694468. Map C4www.wheretraveler.com 37

Shoppingsnow globes and fairytales. OldToys offers a widerange of highly specialized items, sought afterthroughout Europe and the US, with a large sectiondedicated to early twentieth century antiques andchina. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. www.oldtoys.it.Corso Vercelli, 2. T: 02 48006604.M1 Conciliazione. Map C4SCALA SHOP (LA)—A destination store for the loversof ballet and opera, this fabulously equipped shopoffers a wide choice of books, CDs, DVDs, gift items,merchandise, photos and posters. It has a cornerdedicated to dance equipment and shoes by Freddy,the official sponsors of the La Scala Ballet corps.Purchases can also be made online. Open Mon-Sun10.30am-7.30pm and on evenings after performances.www.lascalashop.it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli.T: 02 45483257. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4STIVALERIA SAVOIA—Founded in the 1920s as theofficial bootmaker to the Savoy regiment, it is theshoemaker-of-choice for all those who are passionateabout hunting, riding or polo. Today, it makesbespoke all-purpose boots and shoes handcraftedby artisans. The establishment carries both ready-towearand made-to-measure collections. In additionto footwear, it also sells dresses, shirts and smallleather goods, also customized to suit individualrequirements. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.stivaleriasavoia.it. ViaPetrarca, 7. T: 02 463424. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4ShoesALBERTO GUARDIANI—The best of “Made-in-Italy”featuring innovative, elegant, contemporaryfootwear. Handcrafted details (hand-stitchingand customized finishes) and a selection of primequality materials. Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat10am-7.30pm. www.albertoguardiani.it. C.soVenezia, 6. T: 02 76021697. M1 Palestro. Map H3ALFONSO GARLANDO—Hundreds of styles,colours and heels in all shapes and sizes. At thisstore, it is truly impossible not to find exactlythe shoe that you’re looking for! Open Mon12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.com. Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M1Cairoli, M2Lanza. Map F3FERRAGAMO—Established in 1926, Ferragamoshoes are real works of art. Each new line is theresult of fifty days of labour and all finishes areentirely handcrafted. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ferragamo.com. Via Montenapoleone, 3, Women. T: 0276000054. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4; viaMontenapoleone, 20/4, Men. T: 02 76006660. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4FIGINI—Men and women’s shoes handcrafted usingthe finest quality materials, a perfect blend ofcreativity and artisan tradition. Classic footwear foreveryday wear. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.figinifootwear.it. Corso Monforte, 2.T: 02 76022937. M1 San Babila. Map H4FRATELLI ROSSETTI—Renowned throughout theworld for their comfort and fit. These beautifullyhandcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxuryand tradition, with an added touch of originality.Beautiful and stylish to boot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.rossetti.it. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M3Montenapoleone. Map G4GEOX—The famous “breathable shoe”, the resultof the creative genius of Mario Moretti Polegato,distinguished by a special waterproof, breathablemembrane. Innovation, design and healthy feet. Ninesales points in Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.geox.com. Piazza San Carlocorner of corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 76028217.M1 San Babila. Map G5; via Montenapoleone, 26T: 02 76009372. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4HOGAN—Add a touch of high-quality comfort andthe best of Italian design to your shoe wardrobe.Innovative, easy-to-wear luxury. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.hoganworld.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23.T: 02 76011174. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4SERGIO ROSSI—Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatalein every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eyecatchingfootwear designed for women (and men) insearch of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoesis checked for quality at least 120 times. Sergio Rossialso stocks handbags. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.www.sergiorossi.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27.T: 02 76006140. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4SUTOR MANTELLASSI—The name Sutor comes fromLatin meaning “fine sewer, cobbler” to indicate theluxury hallmark feature that has been kept alive bythe brand throughout the years. The time-honouredtradition of handmade shoes, but also bags and belts,preserved over time with pride and passion. Exquisitehandcrafting and an exclusive design for an objectthat more than a shoe is actually a “state of mind”.Unique shoes for discerning customers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.sutormantellassi.com.Via P. Verri, 2. T: 02 76020339. M1 San Babila. Map G4TANINO CRISCI—Handcrafted workmanship for shoesthat are comfortable to wear and so classic that theywill never go out of style. Beautiful boots for bothmen and women. Open Mon 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.taninocrisci.com.Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76021264. M1 SanBabila. Map G4VERGELIO—A historic brand offering some ofthe finest quality footwear for men and women.Collections that are always abreast of the latestfashion trends without ever foregoing quality. AMade-in-Italy “must”. The chain has many other shopsscattered around the city. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm;Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.vergelio.it. Corso VittorioEmanuele II, 10. T: 02 76003087.M1 San Babila. Map G5VIBRAM—From the well-known Italian company thatproduces rubber soles for sports footwear and, inparticular, hiking boots, amongst other things, thisshop offers the highly original “Vibram FiveFingers”product that adapts perfectly to the shape ofany foot. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio,6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Wagner. Map B4Department Stores& Shopping CentersLA RINASCENTE, a fabulousdepartment store overlooking theDuomo, is a real part of Milan’s history.Open seven days a week: Mon-Sat9.30 am-10pm; Sun 10am-10pmwww.rinascente.it Piazza Duomo,10. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo.MAP F5.La Rinascente Food&Restaurants(see photo) on the 7th floor featuresa Food Market brimming with rareand fabulous delicacies, all origincontrolled. It also offers visitors achoice of as many as nine bars andrestaurants designed to cover theentire spectrum of taste: from theSushi Bar to the Mozzarella Bar,from slow food sandwiches to theOyster Bar. Open 7 days a weekuntil midnight (dedicated entrancesalso on via Santa Radegonda, 1and via San Raffaele, 2.T: 02 8852471)Another historic department store,extending over several floors, is the COINflagship store in piazza Cinque Giornate.Boasting a seamless glass façade, itfeatures one of the largest video wallsin Europe and serves as an interactivemedium for dialogue with the city. Itoffers a number of excellent servicesand an array of the best fashion brands,ranging from clothing to accessories, fromhome design to food. It also has otherbranches located in corso Vercelli 44 andin piazza Cantore 12.Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-8.30pm;Sun 11am-8pm. www.coin.it. PiazzaCinque Giornate. T: 02 55192083. MAP H5.The PIAZZA PORTELLO shoppingcentre is situated just outside the centre,in a rapidly expanding area: this open-airmall hosts numerous shops and facilities.Mon-Sun 8.30am-9pm. www.piazzaportello.it. Via Grosotto, 7.MAP A2.38 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

Clockwise from top:ALESSIThis “Factory of Italian Design” is one of the mostrenowned names in international home décor (p. 32).GAP STOREThe first Gap megastore in Italy celebrates the legendof casual, informal wear for adults and children (p. 28).DE PADOVAFlagship store of the brand which introduced Milan tothe supremely light elegance of Nordic design (p. 32).SportDECATHLON—One of the best equipped sportschains where you can find equipment for any typeof sports discipline, from running to archery, fromskiing to tennis, from golf to snowboarding. It hasan enormous sales point in the middle of town andis the best place to find any type of sports item thatyou might have forgotten to put in your suitcase.Open Sun-Sat 9am-8pm. www.decathlon.it. ForoBuonaparte, 74. T: 02 80509755. M1 Cairoli. Map E4LONGONI SPORT—Established in 1972, it has nowbecome a reference point for sports lovers, bothprofessionals and amateurs. It carries all the bestknownsports brands, including the most technical.Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm.www.longonisport.it. Via Arona, 15.T: 02 33105653. Map B1StationeryFABRIANO BOUTIQUE—The boutique sells superlativequality luxury stationer’s items, combining the highquality of Fabriano paper with materials, such as leatherand linen, to make even the most simple of everydayitems special. Products include diaries, bags, wallets,notepads, photo albums, cards and an array of differentarticles produced using only the most exclusiveItalian raw materials. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;Sun 2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fabrianoboutique.com. ViaPonte Vetero, 17. T: 02 76318754. M1 Cairoli. Map E4IL CARTOLAIO DI MILANO—In the heart of Milan, twohighly distinctive shops offering a wide range ofwriting materials and office equipment. Two locationsin Milan (corso di Porta Vittoria, corso Vercelli). OpenMon 3.20pm-7.30pm: Tues-Fri 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Corso di Porta Vittoria, 28.T: 02 5454458. M1 San Babila. Map G5PAPIER—A stylish, sophisticated shop located in Milan’shistoric centre offering unusual objects, special giftsand exquisite paper. Rare, precious paper is used topersonalize and wrap gift items. Customers can haveinvitations, business cards and stationery printed at itsin-house laboratory. Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Fri10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm.Via San Maurilio, 4. T: 02 865221.M1-M3 Duomo. Map E5PETTINAROLI—Established in 1881 as a print shop, itsubsequently branched out into traditional stationery.On offer, highly unique gifts, personalized planners,business cards printed on the finest of papers andantique prints. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. Piazza San Fedele,2 (entrance from via T. Marino). T: 02 86464642-1875.M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4PINEIDER MILANO—An historic reference point forconnoisseurs of style, exclusivity and Italian traditionoffering exquisite handmade paper, hand-drawnprints in relief, leather goods and writing instruments,all exclusively Made-in-Italy using only the highestquality materials. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm; 3pm-7pm. Corso Europa, 13. T: 02 76022353-2558. M1 SanBabila. Map G5RUFFINI CARTOLIBRERIA—A print shop cumstationers according to the most time-honouredMilanese tradition. Just a short distance from SantaMaria delle Grazie, Ruffini offers a vast selection ofwriting instruments and gift ideas. Open Mon-Sat10am-7pm. Via Fratelli Ruffini, 1. T: 02 463074. M1Conciliazione. Map B4TailoringFERDINANDO CARACENI—The ultimate in elegant,luxury bespoke garments. British fabrics, cashmerefrom Scotland and Irish linens are used to interpreta sartorial tradition of unparalleled excellence.Famous throughout the world for dressingpoliticians, professionals, celebrities and membersof the international jet set. Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30am/3pm-6pm. www.caracenisartoria.com. ViaSan Marco, 22. T: 02 6554284. M2 Moscova. Map F3LARUSMIANI CONCEPT BOUTIQUE—An expressionof timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticatedelegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashionquad in the now completely renovated historic storeopened in 1954. A Concept Boutique extendingover 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozes simplicityand understated luxury, reflecting the subtlety of itssumptuous apparel. The perfect place to build yourwardrobe with exclusive pieces. Larusmiani takesluxury retail to a new level. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.larusmiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957.M1 San Babila. Map G4NH SARTORIA—Located in the historic centre,this tailor’s shop is the ideal place to buildyour wardrobe and stocks a range of knitwear,shirts and ties, all rigorously made-to-measure.Garments are produced according to timehonouredartisan traditions, using the mostexclusive British and Italian fabrics. Open Mon-Fri9am-1pm/3pm-7pm; Saturday by appointmentonly. www.nhsartoria.it. Via Chiossetto, 2.T: 02 780531. M1 San Babila. Map G5SARTORIA PRINCIPESSA—An old-world atelier forcustomers aged 0 upwards. A vast sample rangeis available for choose your dream garment, whichwill be produced in just one week in the desiredsize, colour and fabric. Open Mon 3.30-7.30pm;Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. www.sartoriaprincipessa.com. Via Castel Morrone, 20. T: 02 29525290. M1Porta Venezia. Off Mapwww.wheretraveler.com 39

DiningA Milanese IconSomeone said that “Savini, like the Duomo and La Scala, symbolizes Milan”. Charlie Chaplin left a notesaying “I have never eaten so well”. When describing Savini, located in the heart of Milan’s stunningGalleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the adjective “legendary” is definitely not an exaggeration. In times gone by,customers met there as often as three times a day (for breakfast, for a late-afternoon glass of vermouthand for an after-theatre snack). Nowadays, however, dinner is definitely likely to suffice. Don’t miss the“food boutique”, offering the best of Italian delicatessen.www.savinimilano.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (via Foscolo, 5). T: 02 72003433For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comHaute CuisineACANTO - PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA—A fabulously elegantambiance awaits you at the famous Hotel Principedi Savoia. The tables are set just the right distanceapart, the service is impeccable and the atmosphereexudes charm. The restaurant offers superior qualityfood prepared by renowned chefs with dishes thatstylishly update the classics of Milanese cuisine, withrisotto taking centre stage. The chef’s creativity is alsoexpressed in the pasta, meat and fish dishes. Alwaysopen. €€€€. www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com/ristorante-acanto. Piazza della Repubblica, 17.T: 02 62302026. M3 Repubblica. Map G2AIMO E NADIA (IL LUOGO DI)—Aimo and NadiaMoroni are the most famous team of great chefsin the city. Sheer, unadulterated haute cuisine.Among the many fabulous dishes on offer, thespecialities for which they are renowned worldwideinclude: spaghetti with spring onions (a dishcopied by dozens of other chefs, but never withthe same results) and their veal en croute, cookedto perfection. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.Wonderful wine list. €€€€. www.aimoenadia.com. Via Montecuccoli, 6. T: 02 416886. M1Primaticcio. Off MapARMANI NOBU—An ultra-trendy ambiancepatronized by the fashion crowd. It goes withoutsaying that this fab restaurant, owned by thelegendary “Giorgio”, is located in Milan’s “Quadrilaterodella Moda”. Contemporary luxury, impeccableservice and creative cuisine with a touch of Japanese,signed by the internationally renowned chef,Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Closed Sat lunch and Sun.€€€€. www.armaninobu.it. Via G. Pisoni, 1 corner ofvia A. Manzoni. T: 02 62312645.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4ASSASSINO (L’)—This restaurant is for people wholove to experience the authentic flavors of the fourseasons. Our aim is to convey our passion for Italiancuisine, famed throughout the world for its rich,genuine ingredients. Based on time-honouredtraditions, it epitomizes the wholesome simplicityof Italian food upgraded to suit contemporarytastes for a variety of delicious, creative menus. €€€.www.ristorantelassassino.it. Palazzo Recalcati - viaCornaggia corner of via Amedei. T: 02 8056144. M3Missori. Map F6CELEBRATING ITS 75TH ANNIVERSARY in 2011, Where guidebooks, magazines and maps reach more than 80 million travelers and residents every year.© PHOTO PASQUALE BIZZARRI40 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

DiningGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a list ofestablishments recommended by the editors ofWhere Magazine and includes regular advertisers.MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in BOLD at the end of eachlisting (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on thestreet maps on pages 62-63.INFORMATIONReservations for most restaurants are stronglyadvised. Consult your concierge. In Italy, serviceis included in the price meaning that althoughtipping is not compulsory, it is obviouslyappreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Somemenus include the word “coperto”, a smallsurcharge corresponding to the cost of theservice and bread. Although no dress code existsin Italy, semi-formal clothing is usually consideredde rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and barsare non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ areais specifically offered. Several unusual venues,offering unique gourmet delicacies, are listedunder Tasting Experience rather than underthe standard Dining sections.PRICESPrices are per person.€ = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ /€€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.Where on the web: when youfind this logo go to www.wheremilan.com to find theupdated menu online.TheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comBULGARI—An oasis of tranquillity, carrying the Bulgaritrademark, in the heart of Milan. The famous chef,Elio Sironi, offers elegant presentations and small,though satisfying, portions. Try the Italian specialities,from fish to polenta. €€€€. Open daily. www.bulgarihotels.com. Via privata Fratelli Gabba, 7b.T: 02 805805. M3 Lanza. Map F4CRACCO—Just a short distance from the Duomo, youwill find an elegant atmosphere, tables set just theright distance apart and good service. But, above all,the superb food by Carlo Cracco, a chef of worldwiderenown. Superior quality ingredients combined inoriginal ways. Excellent wine list. Closed on Sat lunchand on Sun. €€€€. www.ristorantecracco.it. Via V.Hugo, 4. T: 02 876774. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5DON CARLOS—Set against an elegant backdropin the heart of Milan, it is an intimate spot setwithin a warm, sophisticated ambience. It has anelegant outdoor area and a cellar boasting over200 superlative wines. The menu is enhanced bythe creative cuisine of Angelo Gangemi, a young,talented Roman chef, and his team. Open everyday until late at night for after-theatre diners. €€€.www.ristorantedoncarlos.it. Via A. Manzoni, 29. T: 0272314640. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4FOUR SEASONS—The wonderful cuisine preparedby Sergio Mei, one of Italy’s foremost chefs, canbe experienced at this ultra-luxurious restaurantlocated inside one of Italy’s most glamorous hotels.His unique Mediterranean style of cooking, withparticular emphasis on the cuisine of Sardinia, thechef’s native birthplace, brings to life an array ofunforgettable flavours and ingredients. Closed onSun at dinner. €€€€. www.fourseasons.com. Via Gesù,8. T: 02 77081435. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4JOIA—Pietro Leemann is considered the guru ofvegetarian food or, according to his own definition,of “natural haute cuisine”. Several of his finestcreations include his “uovo apparente” (“Fake Egg”),his “tonno e la sua ombra” (“Tuna and its Shadow”),his “elogio della Sicilia” (“A Tribute to Sicily”) and his“dolcezza a strati” (“Sweet Layers”). The wine list is justas classy as the restaurant. Closed on Sat at lunchand on Sun. €€€€. www.joia.it. Via P. Castaldi, 18. T: 0229522124. M1 Porta Venezia, M3 Repubblica. Map H2MARCHESINO (IL)—Gualtiero Marchesi, the “Maestro”of Italian cuisine, is the mind behind this fabulousrestaurant which, among other things, is set in asuperb location: the Teatro alla Scala. Music andgood food, a combination which gives life tothe best dishes of Italian haute cuisine, featuringoriginal creations and updates of the classics ofMilanese cuisine, from risotto to breaded vealcutlets. After-theatre dinner service. Closed on Sun.www.ilmarchesino.it. €€€€. Via Filodrammatici, 2corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72094338. M1-M3Duomo. Map F4NICOLA CAVALLARO AL SAN CRISTOFORO—Located in the “Navigli” area, this stylish restaurant,run by chef-patron Nicola Cavallaro, offers a semitraditional- innovative menu (with a selection of4 different types of raw fish for 25 euros). Don’tleave without trying his parma ham with cheesecrème brûlée, his cod fish balls with chickpea sauce,his “porchetta”-style rabbit and his superlative“Chocolate obsession”. Closed on Sat at lunch andon Mon. €€€. www.nicolacavallaro.it. Via Lodovicoil Moro, 11. T: 02 89126060. M2 Porta GenovaFS. Off MapPARK HYATT—A fabulous restaurant, overlookingthe Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, with food by thesupremely talented chef, Stefano Gozzoli. Signaturedishes include, seafood salad, porcini mushroomsalad with slivers of Parmesan cheese, eggs poché,catalogna chicory soup, fresh spaghetti alla chitarrawith Vesuvio tomatoes and basil, mullet stuffedwith potatoes, capers, olives, orange sauce and seaurchins, costoletta alla Milanese and, for dessert,Montebianco “à la mode du chef”. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. €€€€. http://milano.park.hyatt.it.Via T. Grossi, 1. T: 02 88211234. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5SADLER—Claudio Sadler is an internationallyrenowned two-Michelin star chef. His elegantMilanese restaurant, specializing in modern Italiancuisine, has lots of secluded dining rooms whereyou can enjoy a romantic dinner for two or a specialevening with friends. His menus are never the sameand, each time, offer tantalizing dishes such aslobster salad and cotechino, risotto with parmesanand truffle crostini, fresh “cacio e pepe” ravioli withstuffed “amatriciana”-style calamari, aromatic fishdishes and chocolate mille-feuille. Open eveningsonly, closed on Sun. €€€€. www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza,77. T: 02 58104451. M2 Romolo. Off MapSAVINI—As much a city Landmark as La Scala, thiswell-established restaurant is considered to be thecity’s finest. Stylish decor and period furnishingscreate a sophisticated ambiance which, combinedwith impeccable service, make this a perfect diningexperience. The chef Matteo Torretta offers anarray of wonderfully creative food, demonstratinghis truly authentic talent. Two tasting menus,“Savini 2009” (5 dishes for 95 euros), or “Torretta” (8creations by the chef for 115 euros). The à la carteselection inc foie gras torcione with margaritasand pan brioches, risotto al salto or with saffron,costoletta alla milanese, ombrina with a “guazzetto”of clams, grapes and artichokes, lamb with mint,asparagus and zucchini. Closed on Sat at lunch andon Sun. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA—Located in front of theTeatro alla Scala, this restaurant, boasting twoMichelin stars, embodies outstanding interior designand top-rate cuisine. The chef Andrea Berton isknown for his scallops with ginger and peanut creamsauce. Other signature dishes include “liquid saladwith cuttlefish dumpling and black olive oil”, “risottowith raw prawns Sicilia and coral” and “duck Nantaise,steamed breast, fried leg and grilled spring onion”.Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.trussardi.it. Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3Duomo. Map F4Traditional Italian CuisineAL LESS—The signature dish at this restaurant is“bollito misto” (boiled meat) served with all thetraditional sauces. Al Less is also a nursery so don’tbe surprised by the fact that they also sell plants,particularly aromatic ones, and books on plantsand healthy eating. Closed on Mon and on Tues atlunch. €€€. Viale Lombardia, 28. T: 02 70635097. M2Piola. Off MapALFREDO GRAN SAN BERNARDO—Founded bythe famous Alfredo Valli, an authentic legend ofItalian cuisine, this is one of the best places tosavour real Milanese cuisine. “Must try” dishes are“risotto”, “cotoletta alla Milanese”, sautéed kidneysand cassoeula. Zabaione and finger biscuits are theperfect end to a perfect meal. Closed on Sun. €€€.Via G.A. Borgese, 14. T: 02 3319000. Map C1ALLA COLLINA PISTOIESE—An historic restaurantserving excellent Tuscan cuisine. Meat and fishspecialities, traditional soups and, of course, the“must-eat” “fiorentina” or fresh, grilled fish. Closed onFri and on Sat at lunch. €€€. www.allacollinapistoiese.com. Via Amedei, 1. T: 02 877248. M3 Missori. Map F6ALLA CUCINA DELLE LANGHE—This stylishrestaurant, with its wooden decor, large mirrorsand discretely placed tables, is a favourite with VIPson account of its ultra-glam, Corso Como location.The house speciality are “tajarin”, a type of pastaresembling spaghetti. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.trattoriaallelanghe.com. Corso Como, 6. T: 02 6554279.M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2AMICI MIEI—Typically Italian tavern offering traditionalLombardy fare. A hot favourite with students fromthe Bocconi Università which is just around thecorner. Closed on Sun at lunch. €€€. Viale Bligny, 42.T: 02 58321197. Map F7ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA—A seductiveambiance with its retro atmosphere and typical belleépoque furnishings. The restaurant is, in fact, oneof Italy’s most historic venues and offers traditionalMilanese and Lombardy cuisine, interpretedwww.wheretraveler.com 41

Diningwith genuine flair. A curiosity: a plaque outsidecommemorates a visit by Ho Chi Min, president ofVietnam during the famous, bloody war. Closed onSun. €€€. Viale Pasubio, 10. T: 02 6555741. M2 GaribaldiFS. Map E2AURORA—A nineteenth century interior in winterand a fresh outdoor area for alfresco dining on hotsummer evenings. Located in the vibrant designarea, its offers Northern Italian food with typical coldmeats, fresh cheeses and substantial main courses.Don’t forget to end your meal with Aurora’s pear andchocolate cake. Great selection of wines from thePiedmont region. Closed on Mon. €€€. Via Savona, 23.T: 02 89404978. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map C7BAGUTTA—One of Milan’s oldest restaurants, Baguttais famous, among other things, for a literary prizethat was once awarded here. In fact, it is also for thisreason that it is patronized by VIPs and intellectuals.Its top-class cuisine (Tuscan and Milanese) can also besavoured in the garden. House specialities include:la “fiorentina”, the famous Florentine T-bone steak,and soups. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.bagutta.it. ViaBagutta 14. T: 02 7600090. M1 San Babila. Map G4CANTINA DI MANUELA/1—Boasting a friendly thoughtrendy atmosphere, this restaurant is renowned for itswine list. Offering over 400 labels, it sells some thirtydifferent types of wine by the glass, accompaniedby an excellent selection of cold meats and cheeses,pasta and risotto dishes. Closed on Sun. €€€.www.lacantinadimanuela.it. Via G.C. Procaccini, 41.T: 02 3452034. Map C1Small charming restaurantoffering delicious disheswith particular emphasison fresh ingredientsOpen for dinner onlywww.sacripante.comViale Coni Zugna, 52Tel: 02 83390065CANTINA DI MANUELA/2—Though part of thesame chain as the previous one, this location hasa different owner and a different philosophy. Atthe bar you can have a glass of wine or choose abottle from the rack. It also has a pleasant outdoorarea and a handful of tables. Dishes include anumber of fish platters and a rare Parmesancheese that is matured for as many as 60 months.The delicacies served in the restaurant are alsoavailable for take-out and range from foie gras tocold meats, from pastries to wine. Closed on Sun.€€. www.lacantinadimanuela.it. Via R. Sanzio, 16.T: 02 43983048. M1 Wagner. Map A4CHIC N QUICK—Bistrot owned by famous, two starMichelin chef, Claudio Sadler who recently openedthis minimalist, charming, contemporary, thoughelegant restaurant, in the vicinity of his more famousvenue. It offers simple though high quality cuisinewith highlights including grilled specialities and rawfish. Great wine cellar. Closed on Sun and on Mon. €€.www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza, 77. T: 02 89503222.M2 Romolo. Off MapCONVIVENDO—A characteristic restaurant in theheart of Milan. Recently restructured, it is the idealspot for those who wish to try the flavours of goodItalian cuisine set against the romantic backdrop ofan old Milanese courtyard. It has two dining roomsto guarantee a peaceful, relaxing meal. Traditionaland upgraded dishes. Closed on Sat at lunch and onSun. €€€. www.ristoranteconvivendo.com. Viale SanMichele del Carso, 7. T: 02 48519944.M1 Conciliazione. Map C5DAL BOLOGNESE—This restaurant also owes itsfame to its “twin” in Rome. Here, as in the capital,the restaurant is a favourite with VIPs, managersand business men. Great cold cuts and mixedboiled meats washed down with a selection offine wines. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.€€€. Piazza della Repubblica, 13. T: 02 62694845.M3 Repubblica. Map G2DOLCE VITA— Patronized by students andprofessors from the nearby Università Statale,this restaurant is a good choice for both theyoung and the connoisseurs of good food. Newsignature dishes include scallops and goldenprawns, foie gras terrine, sautéed kidneys with“riso al salto” and, each day, a different dish-ofthe-day.Home-baked bread and fresh pasta.Closed on Sun. €€€. Via Bergamini, 11.T: 02 58303843. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5DON LISANDER—For more than sixty years, afashionable restaurant situated right in the heartof Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro allaScala. An elegant atmosphere and impeccableservice. The menu features traditional Lombardyand regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of thehouse is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnutsemifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A. Manzoni, 12/A.T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4DONGIÒ—This restaurant, owned by the Criscuolofamily, is the best place to discover cuisine fromCalabria, one of the most beautiful regions inSouthern Italy. It is renowned for its starters, thereal pride of its chefs, and its “caciocavallo silano”,a typical cheese found in the south. Also worthtrying is its “tiramisu”. Closed on Sun. €€. Via B.Corio, 3. T: 02 5511372. M3 Porta Romana. Map G6EDONÈ—The daughter of Eros and Psyche, inGreek mythology, the word Edoné means atrue incarnation of pleasure. A fabulous seafoodrestaurant with a reputation for some of the bestfish in Milan. Simply and elegantly decorated witha fish counter displaying only the freshest produce.House specialities are definitely concentrated onraw fish dishes: tartare, shellfish platters, carpaccio,unusual combinations, classics upgraded by the chefand mouth watering desserts. Also offers a businesslunch featuring a selection of dishes taken from themenu for which they only charge 18 euros. Via Orti,31. T: 02 36534864. M3 Crocetta. Map G7EMILIA & CARLO—Just a few steps from the CastelloSforzesco, it offers a good fish and meat menu.Highlights include codfish with red onion jam andthe real “fiorentina” (Florentine-style-steak), which isthe speciality of the house. For dessert: chocolatesorbet. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€. ViaSacchi, 8. T: 02 862100. M1 Cairoli. Map E4EMILIANA TORTELLINI—This tiny restaurant, originallyfamous for producing and selling fresh pasta,only has a few tables. The young patronne, NadiaMagnani, had the idea of placing a few tables in hershop where, at lunch, clients can savour a number offabulous pasta or other dishes. Good service and avery interesting selection of wines. Always closed inthe evening and on Sun and Mon. €€. Via Ariberto, 17.T: 02 58109707. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map D6GIANNI E DORINA—This charming, romanticrestaurant boasts a feminine touch thanks to Ester,its talented chef, and Dorina Chionna, patronne andrenowned sommelier. Traditional dishes, wonderfullygenuine ingredients and menus designed especiallyfor vegetarians, vegans and celiacs. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. €€. www.gianniedorina.com. ViaG. Pepe, 38. T: 02 606340. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map E1GIANNINO—One of the oldest restaurants in Milan,it was opened in 1989, by Pisa-born Giannino Bindi.Boasting a 500 seating capacity, the restauranthas a number of elegantly furnished dining roomsdecorated in light and dark shades. Classic menusand simple food made from only the finest, freshestingredients. A varied menu in keeping with therestaurant’s age-old tradition featuring a wideselection of fish and meat, regional dishes andmouth watering desserts. Closed on Sat and on Sunat lunch. €€. www.giannino.it. Via V. Pisani, 6.T: 02 66986998. M3 Repubblica. Map G2GIRARROSTO (AL)—An historic destination in theheart of Milan and a celebrity favourite. Musttrydishes include “penne” with Tuscan chickenlivers and Florentine tripe. Closed on Sat andon Sun at lunch. www.algirarrosto.com. CorsoVenezia, 31. T: 02 76000481. M1 Palestro, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4ISOLA DEI SAPORI—A good place to take a breakfrom shopping. It offers all the flavours of Sardiniawith fresh fish dishes and roast suckling pig (order inadvance). Closed on Sun and on Mon at lunch. €€€.www.ristoranteisoladeisapori.it. Via Anfossi, 10.T: 02 0254100708. Off MapMALAVOGLIA (I)—Typically Sicilian cuisine. A historicvenue and one of the first to be know for itsSouthern fare. House specialities include fresh fish,its famous pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)and its tempting cannoli and cassata. Closed on Mon42 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

HAUTE CUISINEL’ASSASSINOThis restaurant is for people who love to experience the authenticflavors of the four seasons. Our aim is to convey our passion forItalian cuisine, famed throughout the world for its rich, genuineingredients. Based on time-honoured traditions, it epitomizesthe wholesome simplicity of Italian food upgraded to suitcontemporary tastes for a variety of delicious, creative menus.M3 Missori. Map F6www.ristorantelassassino.itPalazzo RecalcatiVia Cornaggia corner of via Amedei, 8T: 02 8056144More info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comGIANNINOOne of the oldest restaurants in Milan, it was opened in 1989, by PisabornGiannino Bindi. Boasting a 500 seating capacity, the restauranthas a number of elegantly furnished dining rooms decorated in lightand dark shades. Classic menus and simple food made from onlythe finest, freshest ingredients. A varied menu in keeping with therestaurant’s age-old tradition featuring a wide selection of fish andmeat, regional dishes and mouth watering desserts. Closed on Satand on Sun at lunch. M3 Repubblica. Map G2www.giannino.itVia V. Pisani, 6 – T: 02 66986998More info: www.wheremilan.comGALLERIASituated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, “Galleria” offerselegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italianstylehospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouthwatering pastries prepared by Daniele Sechi and Enrico Parassina,winner of numerous international awards. Established as a midtwentiethcentury café, today “Galleria” is also a stylish restaurant andpizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days ayear from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7 pm. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5www.ristorantegalleria.itGalleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75T: 02 86464912More info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comJOIAPietro Leeman is considered the guru of vegetarian food or,according to his own definition, of “natural haute cuisine”. Severalof his finest creations include his “Uovo apparente” (fake egg), his“Tonno e la sua ombra” (tuna and its shadow), his “Elogio dellaSicilia” (tribute to Sicily) and his “Dolcezza a strati” (sweet layers).The wine list is just as classy as the restaurant. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. M1 Porta Venezia, M3 Repubblica. Map H2www.joia.itVia P. Castaldi, 18T: 02 29522124More info: www.wheremilan.comwww.wheretraveler.com 43

DiningClockwise from top:PASTICCERIA MARCHESIA truly sweet treat which still retains its original earlynineteenth century atmosphere. (p. 49)PECKFor more than 150 years an authentic temple ofMilanese taste. (p. 49)ATMOSFERAA beautifully restored vintage tram and an itinerantrestaurant offering a panoramic view of Milan.at lunch and on Sun. Booking advisable. €€€. www.ristorante-imalavoglia.com. Via Lecco, 4.T: 02 29531387. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3MASUELLI SAN MARCO—Milanese, Lombard andPiedmontese cuisine at this historic Milan-basedtrattoria which is still run by the family. The restauranthas been welcoming customers in the same way foralmost a century and the menu, as was customaryin those days, still offers several fixed dishes. Monday“boiled meat”, Tuesday, “tripe”, Thursday, “cassoeula”,Friday cod. One of the house favourites is theclassical “risotto alla milanese”. Great selection ofwines. Closed on Sun and on Mon at lunch. €€€.www.masuelli-trattoria.com. Viale Umbria, 80.T: 02 55184138. Off MapMISTRAL—Originally established as a delicatessen inthe 60’s and later transformed into a trattoria, thissmall charming venue in the heart of Milan offers atraditional menu based on the best home-cookedcuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish and aninteresting assortment of vegetarian dishes. For a realtaste of Milan, its risotto dishes are an absolute “must”.Pasta, bread and desserts are all home-made and therestaurant has a small outdoor dining area. Closed onSat at midday and on Sun. €€. www.ristorantemistral.it. Viale Monte Nero, 34. T: 02 55019104. M3 PortaRomana. Map H7NON SOLO LESSO—Its relaxed welcomingatmosphere is reflected in its particularly versatilemenu: a la carte food until midnight, €15 menuat lunch and happy hour from 6.30 to 8pm.Northern Italian cuisine. Open every day. €€. www.nonsololesso.it. Via G. Broggi, 13 (entrance from Via F.Redi corner of via G. Jan) T: 02 36533440.M1 Lima. Off MapOLTREMARE—Located inside the Boscolo ExedraHotel in Milan, just a few steps from the Duomo,the Oltremare restaurant expresses an innovativeconcept of contemporary luxury. Decorated witheclectic artworks, its décor, though supremelyelegant, is also somewhat unconventional, as isits cuisine. Its sophisticated culinary philosophy isexpressed through artisan dishes, cooked with onlythe freshest organic ingredients that highlight theirtaste, re-evoking its regional past in order to allowdiners to experience new and unusual flavours.Always open. www.boscolohotels.com. CorsoMatteotti, 4-6. T: 02 77679611. M1 San Babila. Map G4OSTERIA DEL BINARI—This delightful “Osteria” withits romantic air, also offers its clientele a charminggarden for al fresco dining. Saffron risotto, “cotolettaalla milanese” and braised dishes but also vegetariancuisine. Pasta, bread and desserts are always homemade.Open evenings only, closed on Sun. €€€.Via Tortona, 1. T: 02 89409428. M2 Porta GenovaFS. Map C7OSTERIA OPERA PRIMA—Elegant luminous diningroom, cordial service and an inviting wine list.Located in the vicinity of Milan’s “Chinatown”, thisrestaurant offers traditional, high-quality meat andfish dishes. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€.www.osteriaoperaprima.it. via P. Lomazzo, 29.T: 02 316300. Map D1PESA (LA)—If you’re looking for simple Milanese orLombard food during your stay in the city, thenthis genuine “trattoria” is an absolute “must”. It hasseveral small dining rooms, red and white checkedtable cloths and an outside dining area for warmersummer evenings. Its wine list is really interesting andfeatures several superb choices. A truly delightfulatmosphere. Closed on Sun. €€. www.lapesatrattoria.it. Via G. Fantoni, 26. T: 02 4035907. Off MapRIBOT—Tuscan menu featuring maccheroniMontalcino and old or Catalan-style fiorentina. Theformer is made in a pan with braised vegetableswhile the latter is served with raw vegetablesand balsamic vinegar. Excellent quality meat. Theambience is pleasant and suitable for businesslunches and dinners. Highly professional service.Closed on Mon. €€€. Via M. Cremosano, 41.T: 02 33001646. M1 QT8. Off MapRIGOLO—Established in 1958, this Tuscan restauranthas contributed to the fame of the Brera district andoffers diners a warm, convivial atmosphere. In thewords of Oscar Wilde, “simple pleasures are the lastrefuge of the complex” and, in fact, for years, thishas been a favourite haunt of famous writers fromMontale to Quasimodo, artists, Heads of State, VIPsand newspaper editors. The menu includes meatand fish dishes, breaded cutlets, spaghetti witharagostelle (a mix between a langouste and a prawn),soups, sliced fillet of beef with artichokes and homemadedesserts. Closed on Mon. www.rigolo.it. LargoTreves. T: 02 804589. M2 Moscova. Map F3TAVERNA DEL SACRIPANTE—Simone Suardi is one ofMilan’s youngest and most talented chefs. A protégéof the famous Pietro Leeman, chef patron of thefamous Joia restaurant, he boasts creativity, technicalability and intelligence. At his restaurant, with itsParisian-bistrot type atmosphere, clients can savoura mixture of creative, traditional dishes. In addition torisotto, fish’n chips and fried pizza are his “must-try”specialities. Always closed at lunch and on Mon. €€.www.sacripante.com. Viale Coni Zugna, 52.T: 02 83390065. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map C644 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

TASTES OF THE CITYSEVENWith a choice of various locations scattered throughout thecity, at Seven you can relax in a charming ambience whiletasting the best meat in the world, chosen by our expert staff.Filetto steccato (filet wrapped in a thin layer of lard), Angus ribroast,suckling pig and other delicacies such as an assortmentof cold cuts, a selection of French and Italian cheeses, foie-gras,fabulous deep-fried treats and… lots more besides! Fusioncuisine that brings the world to your home, accompanied by afine selection of wines: over 180 labels on the list, with a choiceof 24 wines also available by the glass.• Casa dei Ciliegi – via Bertelli, 4 – T: 02 2615190• Corso Colombo – corso Colombo, 11 – T: 02 58101669• Viale Montenero – viale Monte Nero, 29 – T: 02 54019867www.sevengroup.itMore info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comZIO PESCEA welcoming, informal atmosphere, with two locations indifferent areas of the city, offering a high-quality, tasty thoughsimple fish-based menu. At Zio Pesce you can savour Catalanstylelobster, oyster and seafood platters, Seafood risotto,imperial-style turbot, a mixed-fry of local seafood and lotsof other dishes of the best Italian and international tradition.Defining itself as a “seafood workshop”, it guarantees fresh fishcaught on a daily basis: and, to ensure freshness at affordableprices, the menu varies from day to day, depending on themarket offer.www.ziopesce.itMore info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.com• Zio Pesce – via Cicco Simonetta, 8 – T: 02 58109145• Zio Pesce – via Andrea Maffei, 12 – T: 02 49794967JOE CIPOLLAAt Joe Cipolla, you can choose your meat directly from themeat counter and have it cooked over a charcoal fire, for areally special, unique flavour! Joe Cipolla welcomes you with anarray of house specialities: cold cuts and cheese produced bysmall local manufacturers; a wide variety of meat from the bestpastures: charcoal-cooked rice, bruschette made with homebakedbread, char-grilled onions and lots of other specialitiescooked directly over a charcoal fire; “homemade” desserts andpasta and an excellent selection of fine wines.• Joe Cipolla – via Vigevano, 33 – T: 02 58114363www.joecipolla.itMore info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comwww.wheretraveler.com 45

DiningInternational & Ethnic CuisineALACENA—The best of Mediterranean cuisine andSpanish gastronomic tradition at this restaurantlocated inside the Hotel Meliá. €€€. www.meliamilano.com.Via Masaccio, 19. T: 02 44406. M1Lotto. Off MapBBQ—A perfect choice for those who love char-grilledor barbecued meat: rib roasts, chops, lamb andsteaks. The starters, chalked up daily on a blackboardand varied each day, are also definitely worth aA cosy elegant ambienceoffering a selectionof prime quality char-grilledor barbecued meatbut also Mediterranean dishesand an array of home-bakeddesserts to suit all tastes.BBQVia Sottocorno, 5/A20129 MilanoT: 02 76003571try. Signature dishes: “pappardelle with porcinimushrooms and “bistecca alla Fiorentina” (T-bonesteak) with potatoes. Great choice of desserts. Closedon Sat and on Sun at lunch. €€€. Via P. Sottocorno,5/a T: 02 76003571. Map H5BOCCINO—Located in the new fashion and designdistrict amidst photographic studios, showrooms,fashion and advertising agencies, it has an intimate,welcoming atmosphere and a magnificentspacious terrace on the first floor. Menu includesmeat and fish dishes. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.ristoranteboccino.it. Via Tortona, 21. T: 02 89415562.M2 Porta Genova FS. Map C7CENTRO ITTICO - RAW FISH CAFÉ—A highly originalatmosphere for a great fish restaurant. Excellentraw fish inc all types of shellfish and seafood andtop-notch grilled and fried dishes. Closed on Sun.€€. www.rawfishcafe.it. Via Martiri Oscuri, 19.T: 02 26143774. M1 Rovereto. Off MapCOMPAGNIA GENERALE DEI VIAGGIATORINAVIGANTI E SOGNATORI—Japanese-styleambience and cuisine. Savour sushi, sashimiand a wide variety of uramaki (rice, fish andalgae rolls) while sitting on Tatami mats. Anovelty this year are: harumaki shrimps, i.e. fivefried shrimp and vegetable rolls served with ahot sauce and a special teryaky-based sauce.Open evenings only, closed on Mon. €€€. www.compagniageneralemilano.com. Via P. Sottocorno,27. T: 02 5516154. Off MapDENZEL—One of the few truly Kosher restaurants inMilan, serving an international fish and meat menuof delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, America, Asia and South America are combinedin delectable, tasty dishes, served againstthe backdrop of a warm, friendly, welcomingambience. It uses only the finest ingredients andrigorously follows the rules of Kashrut. Closedon Friday evening. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G.Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map B5DON JUAN—Not far from the Navigli, Don Juanis considered one of the best places in town toeat Argentinean cuisine in Italy. The setting isan elegant reproduction of a “casa de campo”featuring the classic “Parrilla”, an open barbecuegrill. Meat obviously features big but so dofabulous hors d’oeuvres, empanadas, cold cuts,sweet-breads, various potato side dishes andtypical desserts. Closed on Sun. Booking required.€€€. www.ristorantedonjuan.com. Via Altaguardia,2. T: 02 58430805. M3 Porta Romana. Map G7EXEDRA—Young, trendy restaurant featuringgood International cuisine with creative housespecialities including dishes such as Catalan lobster,fillet of sea bream with a sweet pepper sauce,pumpkin tortelli and creme brulée. Closed on Satat lunch and on Sun. €€€. www.exedramilano.it.Piazzale Cadorna, 2. T: 02 72000251. M1-M2 CadornaFN. Map D4FUJI—One of the best addresses in Milan forJapanese cuisine, this restaurant is the brain-childof an Italian and Japanese business venture. Oneof the first in the city to offer oriental food, itcontinues to provide light, contemporary dishes.There is also a sushi bar. Closed on Sat. at lunch andon Sun. €€€. www.ristorantefujimilano.com. VialeMontello, 9. T: 02 29008349. M2 Moscova. Map E2GIACOMO—Thanks to its impeccable serviceand fabulous food, this is one restaurant thatwould not know what the word “crisis” means.Top-notch fish dishes with particular attention toseasonal ingredients. A favourite VIP haunt. Greatwine list. €€€€. www.giacomomilano.com. Via P.Sottocorno, 6 corner of via B. Cellini.T: 02 76023313. Map H5GIARDINO DI GIADA (IL)—Experience andimpeccable service are the strong points of thislarge, luminous restaurant. An oriental ambiencewith design undertones, the lower floor housesthe modern, Jade Café “noodle bar”, featuringcocktails and an Asian buffet. In addition totraditional, mouth watering Asian fare it also offersreal Cantonese cuisine. Only the finest ingredientsand the freshest products, prepared in the stir-fryversion, on a hot griddle, steamed or with tofu.The best Chinese restaurant in Milan. Closed onMon. www.giardinodigiada.it. Via Palazzo Reale, 5.T: 02 8053891. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5HONG KONG—Chinese cuisine. An elegant,evocative atmosphere boasting good food andimpeccable service. Try the chef’s specialities likeKong Pao chicken, i.e. chicken pieces with nuts,chilli pepper and a special sweet soya-basedsauce; the fish dishes; Pekinese, Cantonese andsmoked duck and rice puffs for dessert. Closed onMon at lunch. Via G. Schiaparelli, 5. T: 02 67071790.M3 Sondrio. Off MapMAMA CAFÉ RESTAURANT—Something goodat all hours of the day. This is the philosophy ofthis restaurant which stays open from the earlymorning till late at night. In the morning, a greatbreakfast with lots of mouth watering treats. Atlunch, dishes and sandwiches made from the bestItalian produce. In the late afternoon, Happy Wine,a wine aperitivo. Brunch on Sundays and, at dinner,typical Italian regional dishes. Closed on Sunevening. €€. www.mamacafe.it. Via Caminadella, 7.T: 02 86995682. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D6MISTER ANGUS—Formerly an old seventeenthcentury convent, this warm, welcomingrestaurant, featuring open brick work and largewindows, is spread out over two floors. Some ofthe best Argentinian food in Milan. Prime qualitymeat, a key player on the menu, and beautifullyfresh fish. If you’re in the mood for some reallygood beef, then this is the place to go. Judging bythe pictures on the walls, you might even run intosome famous soccer star. Closed on Sat at lunch.€€. www.misterangus.com. Via Bandello, 22.T: 02 43982638. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map C5RICCIONE (A)—One of the most famous fishrestaurants in the city. Formerly patronized byjournalists and celebrities, nowadays, though stillexpensive, it continues to offer first-rate fish disheswith a large assortment of raw fish. Worth a try areits mixed seafood fry and its Catalan-style shrimpsand prawns. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Mon.€€€€. www.ristoranteariccione.com.Via T. Taramelli, 70. T: 02 683807. M3 Zara. Off MapRICERCA VINI—The winning formula of thisrestaurant are its wine and Italian delicacies. Youcan choose from a selection of about 2500 labels,the perfect accompaniment to oysters or sashimi.Closed Sat evening and on Sun. €€€. Via V. Monti,29. T: 02 48193496. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D446 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

TASTES OF THE CITYMISTRALOriginally established as a delicatessen in the 60’s and latertransformed into a trattoria, this small charming venue in theheart of Milan offers a traditional menu based on the besthome-cooked cuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish andan interesting assortment of vegetarian dishes. For a real tasteof Milan, its risotto dishes are an absolute “must”. Pasta, breadand desserts are all home-made and the restaurant has a smalloutdoor dining area. Closed on Sat at midday and on Sun. M3Porta Romana. Map H7www.ristorantemistral.itViale Monte Nero, 34 – T: 02 55019104More info: www.wheremilan.comTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comCENTRO ITTICO-RAW FISH CAFÉOriginally a wholesale fishmonger, the restaurant has a trulyoriginal atmosphere and is a favourite with regulars and fishlovers. Special features include a twin-level loft, a ground floorrestaurant and a lounge bar open until 2am. Fabulous raw fish,including all types of shellfish and top-notch grilled and frieddishes. Smoking room. Open daily. M1 Rovereto. Off Mapwww.rawfishcafe.itVia Martiri Oscuri, 19T: 02 26143774More info: www.wheremilan.comSARLASarla in Indian means “virtuous simplicity”, the underlyingphilosophy of this famous Indian restaurant which is also thebest in town. We suggest trying: “Aam Baadam” (chicken piecesin a mango, almond and cashew nut sauce), “Punjabi Kadhi”(vegetables and chickpea patties in a delicate yoghurt sauce,flavoured with aromatic Indian spices), “Lamb Korma” (lambcooked in a delicate cashew nut sauce) and “Chicken Balti”(chicken breasts in a hot tomato sauce). Open daily for dinner,Mon-Fri for lunch. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F6www.sarla.itVia G. Stampa, 4 – T: 02 89095538More info: www.wheremilan.comIYORecently enlarged and refurbished, Iyo is one of the mostpopular Japanese restaurants in Milan, offering authenticsushi dishes and teppan, lovingly prepared by Japanese chefIchicawa Haruo. High quality, traditional, creative cuisine,boasting a touch of western philosophy. Open Tues-Sun12.15am-2.45am/7.30pm-11.30pm. Map B1www.iyo.itVia Piero della Francesca, 74T: 02 45476898More info: www.wheremilan.comwww.wheretraveler.com 47

DiningPROEDICOMUNICAZIONEOne of the few truly Kosherrestaurants in Milan,serving an internationalfish and meat menuof delicate contrastsTheWHERE MILANMENUwww.wheremilan.comTraditions of the Middle East,America, Asia and South Americaare combined in delectable, tastydishes, served against the backdropof a warm, friendly, welcomingambience. Denzel uses only thefinest ingredients and rigorouslyfollows the rules of Kashrut. Forbig appetities, try the 530 gramhamburger or treat yourself toceviche and the fabulous assortmentof appetizers and side dishes.Via G. Washington, 9 (Porta Magenta) - M1 WagnerT: 02 48519326OpenSun-Thu 12am-3.30pm; 7pm-11.30pm.Fri 12am-3.30pm.SAMBUCO (IL)—Creative fish cuisine. Its most famousdish is “fritto misto di mare” (mixed seafood fry).Other specialities include crudités, fresh seafoodspaghetti and fillet of turbot. Wonderful ice-creams(vanilla, caramel or cinnamon flavoured) andchocolate-based desserts. No fish on Mondays but“bollito misto”. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.€€€€. www.ilsambuco.it. Via Messina, 10 c/o HotelHermitage. T: 02 33610333. Map D2SARLA—Sarla in Indian means “virtuous simplicity”,theunderlying philosophy of this famous Indianrestaurant which is also the best in town. We suggesttrying: “Aam Baadam” (chicken pieces in a mango,almond and cashew nut sauce), “Punjabi Kadhi”(vegetables and chickpea patties in a delicateyoghurt sauce, flavoured with aromatic Indianspices), “Lamb Korma” (lamb cooked in a delicatecashew nut sauce) and “Chicken Balti” (chickenbreasts in a hot tomato sauce). Open daily for dinnerand Mon-Fri for lunch. €€. www.sarla.it. Via G. Stampa,4. T: 02 89095538. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F6SEMPIONE 42—Andrea Alfieri, a member of GualtieroMarchesi’s Euro Toques and a teacher at the CulinaryInstitute of America and Roberta Zulian, make aformidable team of chefs. Dishes include, Parmesanflan caramelized with cream of artichokes and eggs,“Risotto Acquerello” with asparagus. Favourite maincourses are “la mia cotoletta” and the restaurant’scodfish speciality while the desserts on offer includevarious types of puddings, mousses and cannoli.Closed on Sat at lunch, on Sun and Mon evening.€€€. www.sempione42.com. Corso Sempione, 42.T: 02 317849. Map C2SEVEN—A real green oasis with all the appeal ofold-world Milan, Seven has five highly characteristicdining rooms and a veranda (with a seating capacityof 130) . Ideal for an intimate dinner or a dinneramong friends. Cold cuts, grilled meat and fish andsoups. Great selection of wines. The owners alsohave other successful venues. Closed on Sun. €€€.www.sevengroup.it. Via L. Bertelli, 4. T: 02 2615190. M1Turro. Off MapVIETNAMONAMOUR—Located in a small, earlytwentieth century building, this is the best restaurantin Milan for Vietnamese cuisine. “Must try” dishesinclude crab soup with ginger, beef cooked in anearthenware pot with star anise and fillet of seabream in lotus flower sauce. Closed on Sun. €€€.www.vietnamonamour.it. Via A. Pestalozza, 7.T: 02 70634614. M2 Piola. Off MapYACOUT—The name of a famous restaurant inMarrakech, the ambience is reminiscent of a privateresidence in the Medina. Spread over three levels, therestaurant has a tiled water feature on the groundfloor. It offers Mediterranean cuisine and an array ofenticing Moroccan food: pastille (fish, vegetables andchicken) and harira soup (a soup made from pulsesserved with dates and lemon) tajine and couscous.Only open in the evening from 6.30pm to 2.30am.€€€. www.yacout.it. Via Cadore, 23-25.T: 02 5462230. Off MapPizzaDA GIULIANO—Though somewhat Spartan, thisvenue offers delicious sliced pizza, either in a simplerversion (their basic, tomato and mozzarella slice isabsolutely fantastic) or with a filling. A hot favouritewith the Milanese, its fans have been flocking herein droves since the 70’s. The perfect place to catch aquick snack after the theatre. Closed on Mon. €. Via P.Sarpi, 60. T: 02 341630. Map D2DA RITA E ANTONIO—This restaurant, famous forits authentic Neapolitan pizza, i.e. round, not toobig and thin-crusted, is located next to the TeatroDal Verme, just near Parco Sempione and theCastello Sforzesco. It also serves fresh pasta andan assortment of meat and fish dishes. €€. Via G.Puccini, 2. T: 02 875579. M1 Cairoli. Map E4FRIJENNO MAGNANNO—The epitome ofNeapolitan tradition, it serves utterly deliciouspizzas (try the version with mozzarella di bufalaor anchovies) as well as several regional dishes.To end the meal, fabulous desserts like “babà”,“pastiera” or “sfogliatella” (typical Neapolitanpastries). Closed on Mon. €€. Via B. Marcello, 93.T: 02 29403654. M2 Caiazzo. Off MapPIZZACCIA—There is no doubt that, at this venue,pizza takes centre stage. However, also worthtrying are its fresh pasta dishes or codfishwith polenta. For those who prefer meat, therestaurant’s char-grilled Angus-Beef is alsoabsolutely delicious. Home-made desserts. Closedon Sun and on Mon at lunch. €€. www.lapizzaccia.it. Via Don Bosco, 11 corner of piazza San Luigi.T: 02 57404576. M3 Lodi TIBB. Off MapQP—Contemporary, minimalist decor, small tablesand paper napkins. QP has a very interestingwine list and carries a number of top-notchbeers including the rare Amber dei Monaci dellaCascinazza di Buccinasco. Neapolitan cuisine andpizzas of the traditional, sea-food, capricciosaand diavola type. The highlight of the house isits “chiù pizza” speciality, featuring eightdifferent types of filling. Closed on Mon. €€. ViaPavia, 8. T: 02 89423445. Off MapSPONTINI—Renowned for its outstanding slicedpizza topped with tomatoes, mozzarella andanchovies. Soft with a crisp base, the pizza isbaked in a wood-fired pizza oven. Owned byMassimo Innocenti, it has been a favourite withpizza fans since the 50’s. Closed on Mon. Otherbranches can also be found in via Marghera andin viale Papiniano. €. www.pizzeriaspontini.it. ViaG. Spontini, 4. T: 02 2047444. M1 Lima. Off MapTasting ExperienceBIANCOLATTE—An elegant bistrot where whiteis a dominant colour both in terms of the decorand the menu. It offers an assortment of deliciousItalian treats and desserts: pasta dishes, chickenMilanese-style, fresh or matured cheeses andpiadine but also ice cream, cappuccino andbrioches. Open Mon 7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Fri7.30am-midnight; Sat-Sun 8am-midnight.www.biancolattemilano.it. Via F. Turati, 30.T: 02 62086177. M3 Turati. Map G3CAFFÈ VERGNANO—A combination of old-worldItalian elegance and contemporary taste anddesign. The secrets of its success: the highestquality coffee beans are purchased directly intheir places of origin and roasted according torigorously traditional methods. The ideal placeto get to know and appreciate not only the48 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

Diningaroma of real Italian coffee but also a variety ofunusual food. Always open. www.caffevergnano.com. Via Speronari, 3. T: 02 86996858. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5CAFFÈ ZUCCA—Situated in front of the Duomo, atthe entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, thishistoric cafè holds the honour of supposedly havingintroduced Milan to the aperitivo in the Eighties. Ameeting point for artists, writers and politicians, this isa good place to meet for a drink or lunch. Highlightsinclude “Foamed Espresso” (based on an idea byLavazza in collaboration with the famous Catalanchef Ferran Adriá) and Zucca’s renowned rabarbaro,a delicious bittersweet drink made with rhubarb.Closed on Mon. www.caffemiani.it. Piazza Duomo,21. T: 02 86464435. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5CALIFORNIA BAKERY—A corner of America whereyou can relax and take a break from the hustleand bustle of city life and taste typical specialitiesprepared with only the finest ingredients. Goodieson offer inc homemade cheesecake, muffins, applepie, stuffed bagels and doughnuts to delight yourpalate either at breakfast or lunch. Also available,fabulous savoury quiches of all types. A warmwelcoming atmosphere offset by shabby chicfurnishings and an open oven. Different menusserved at different times. Several locations (PiazzaSant’Eustorgio, 4; Viale Premuda, 44; Largo Augusto).Always open. www.californiabakery.it. PiazzaSant’Eustorgio, 4. T: 02 39811538. M2 Porta GenovaFS. Map E7CUCCHI—Established in Milan in 1936, over theyears this pasticceria has become a favourite withthe Milanese thanks to the excellent quality ofits products. Cucchi offers a fabulous selectionof typically Italian cakes, pastries, candies andchocolates. For those who wish to linger longer,there is also a charming tea room featuring classicalfurniture, fancy table cloths and elegant cutlery.During the summer months, customers can enjoytheir food and drinks whilst sitting outside in thesunshine. Tues-Sun 7am-10pm. Corso Genova, 1.T: 02 89409793. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D6“panzerotto”, a pocket of pizza crust stuffedwith all sorts of ingredients, including thebasic cheese-and-tomato. Service is quick andefficient. Open Mon 10am-3pm; Tues-Sat 10am-8pm. www.luini.it. Via Santa Radegonda, 16.T: 02 86461917. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PANINO GIUSTO—The “panino” (sandwich) isan Italian and Milanese speciality, which holdsenormous appeal on account of its mouthwatering ingredients, above all, Italian delidelights such as ham, salami, cheese andvegetables. The establishment offers some ofthe best “Panini” in Italy including one of themost popular, truffle and salmon. It also servesother dishes including cold roast beef and “vitellotonnato”. www.paninogiusto.it. Corso G. Garibaldi,125. T: 02 6554728. M2 Moscova. Map F2PASTICCERIA MARCHESI—Pralines and pastries,biscuits and homemade panettone (year-round),chocolates, sweets and over thirty differenttypes of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. Itstill retains its original early nineteenth centuryatmosphere and has a counter at which youcan drink a cup of coffee accompanied by tiny,mouth watering treats. Pastries baked fresh ona daily basis and for the holiday season.A truly sweet treat. Closed on Mon and on Sunafternoon. www.pasticceriamarchesi.it.Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11. T: 02 876730.M1 Cairoli. Map E5PECK—A paradise for food lovers. At this high-classdelicatessen, for years an authentic temple ofMilanese taste, you will find the best of Italianexcellence, from cured meats to sauces, from winesto liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread outover three floors, Peck is also a great place for anunforgettable stopover, thanks to its large samplingareas. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim,achieved through a careful selection of productsfrom all over the world. A totally worthwhilegastronomic experience. Closed on Sun. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PESCHERIA DA CLAUDIO—Is an upscale seafood shop,aperitivo bar and recently also a restaurant servingan array of pesce crudo (raw fish). One of the oldestseafood places in the city and definitely the mostfamous, it is distinguished by its fabulously freshproduce. Mon 11am-8pm; Tues-Sat 9am-9.30pm.www.pescheriadaclaudio.it. via Cusani, 1.T: 02 8056857. M1 Cairoli. Map E4SANT’AMBROEUS—A traditional meeting place,since 1936, just a few steps away from the La ScalaTheatre. It offers a fabulous selection of typicallyItalian cakes, pastries, candies and chocolates. Theaperitivo spread includes international cocktailsand delicious appetizers based on the themeof the day: oysters, salmon or parma ham. OpenTue-Sun 7.34am-8.30pm. Closed on Monday. www.santambroeusmilano.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 7.T: 02 76000540. M1 San Babila. Map G4DE’ CHERUBINI—Coffee, cappuccino and brioches,the key ingredients of a typically Italian breakfast. Itselegant interior (the furnishings originate from anearly twentieth century chemist shop in Turin) is theperfect place to enjoy real croissants while sippingyour coffee or cappucino. Founded as a bar, it hasnow become an “in” place for a typically Milaneseaperitivo, set against the atmospheric backdropof the Navigli. Open daily 6.30am-8pm. Via Trinceadelle Frasche, 2. T: 02 83242346. M2 Porta GenovaFS. Map E7FRANTOI CELLETTI & CULTIVAR—The place todiscover the taste of Italian olive oil set againstthe romantic backdrop of an old reconvertedolive-press. Culture and good food, for a uniqueexperience, amidst pizza and regional specialities,with oil playing a lead role. Fun tastings and anaperitivo every evening from 7.30pm onwards.Closed at lunch. www.frantoicelletti.com. Via L.Zuccoli, 6 corner of via C. Gluck, 56. T: 02 66983712.M1 Pasteur, M3 Sondrio. Off MapLUINI—A Milan institution since 1948. At thisstand-up counter near the Galleria, you’ll haveto elbow your way through a throng of welldressedpatrons to purchase the house specialty:In the Heart of the “Salotto”An amalgam of Italy in the heart of Milan and the perfect placefor anyone suffering from jet lag. If you’re dying for a plate ofspaghetti at 8am or if you feel like trying a real Italian pizza in thedead of night, have no fear. If the time is right at home, it’s alsoright at the “Galleria”. This restaurant, located at number 75 ofthe stylish covered Galleria that connects the Duomo to La Scala,is open from 8am to 1am and is always ready to offer you coffeeand biscuits, club sandwiches or a full three course meal. Livemusic in the evenings. www.ristorantegalleria.it. Galleria VittorioEmanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5www.wheretraveler.com 49

EntertainmentA Flight MuseumHistoric aircraft, flight simulators, a fantastic play area for children, a fun store offering loads of flight-themedobjects and a brand new “Flight Café” where visitors can recharge their batteries in a warm, welcomingatmosphere. If you’re crazy about aeroplanes then don’t miss the chance to visit Volandia, a flight park andmuseum displaying the jewels of Italian and international aviation, close to Malpensa airport (45 minutesfrom Milan centre). From Wed to Sun, from 10am to 6pm.www.volandia.it. Via per Tornavento, 15. Somma Lombardo (Varese). T: 0331 230642For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comAperitivoBAR STRAF—The street bar of the Straf design hotel inthe heart of Milan. The bar echoes the basic materialsused inside the hotel, such as concrete walls andfloors, although here the interior designer VincenzoDe Cotiis has created a sort of spatial overwriting byusing a hyper-decorative style. Eclectic happy hour,often with DJ set and live music, from 6pm. Openevery day from 9am to midnight. www.straf.it. Via SanRaffaele, 3. T: 02 80508715. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5BIFFI IN GALLERIA—Founded in 1867 by Pastry chefto His Majesty, Paolo Biffi, this is one of Milan’s oldestcafés situated in the heart of the Galleria VittorioEmanuele, just a stone’s throw from the Duomo.Patronized by industry magnates, politicians andmembers of Milan’s high society, it also servessophisticated aperitivi. Mon-Sun 2pm-11pm. www.biffigalleria.it. Via U. Foscolo, 3. T: 02 8057961. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5CAFFÈ DELLA PUSTERLA—Open daily for breakfast,lunch or afternoon tea. It offers a rich buffet of sweetand savoury snacks. From 6.30pm. Free wirelessconnection. Via E. De Amicis, 22. T: 02 89402146.M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5CONTI CAFÉ—This small cosy café-restaurant islocated in the courtyard of a prestigious locationin via Montenapoleone. Here you can taste andpurchase not only confetti (sugared almonds),cakes, chocolates and tea and coffee blendsbut also raw fish, caviar and Mediterranean-stylepasta wishes. Open Mon-Sun 8am-11pm. ViaMontenapoleone, 19. T: 02 76394934. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4COVA—Founded in 1817, by none other than one ofNapoleon’s soldiers. Thanks to its strategic position,in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, thisvenue is a true Milanese classic. Established asa pasticceria, it also offers a house aperitivo: aninfusion of herbs and flowers based on a secretrecipe. Open from 7.30am to 8.30pm. www.pasticceriacova.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8.T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4DESEO—This elegant, crowded lounge-restaurantis situated just a few metres from the Arco dellaPace. Boasting a sophisticated setting, it offersdelicious cocktails and a rich buffet. It alsohas a small tobacconist’s counter for the joyof smokers. Aperitivo from 5.30pm to 9.30pm.Corso Sempione, 2. T: 02 315164. Map D3EL TOMBON DE SAN MARC—This historicMilanese establishment was opened in 1963,in the picturesque Brera district. A restaurantand American bar, it serves typical Milanesefare until 11.30pm. Live music on Thurs, Friand Sat. Aperitivo served from 6.30pm. ViaWHERE WAS FOUNDED IN 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion.50 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

EntertainmentGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a list ofestablishments recommended by the editorsof Where Magazine and includes regularadvertisers.MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in BOLD at the endof each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to thecoordinates on the street maps on pages62-63.INFORMATIONSeveral venues offering food are included inthis section. These are considered as meetingplaces rather than gourmet addresses andthus explain our decision to list them hererather than under Dining. Most major theatreproductions are listed here, together with alist of other entertainment. Since programmetimes are subject to change (often on a dailybasis) it is impossible to list all of them here.We therefore suggest that you doublecheckdetails regarding specific programmetimes. Major events can be found in the“Where Now” section. Open-air markets arean excellent opportunity not only to makepurchases but also to acquaint visitors withthe folklore of the city or indulge in VIPwatching. For this reason, we have listed themhere rather than under “Shopping”. All detailsare correct at the time of going to press buttimes can, and do, change. Always ask yourconcierge to double-check all details.San Marco, 20. T: 02 6599507. M2 Moscova, M3Turati. Map F3FASHION CAFÉ—An architectural project based ona “home experience”, but also a hot favourite withindustrial magnates, models and young upmarketMilanese trend-setters. Open from 9am to 3pm.Aperitivo from 6.30pm to 9.30pm. After dinner dj seton Thurs and Sun. www.fashioncafe.it. Via San Marco,1. T: 02 6572021. M2 Lanza. Map F3GIN ROSA—One of the oldest and most historicvenues in Milan where tradition stands forhigh-class service, a vast assortment of drinks (inparticular wines and whiskies) and a sophisticatedenvironment. When aperitivo time comes around, itoffers a selection of fine wines and the famous GinRosa cocktail. www.gin-rosa.it. Galleria San Babila, 4/B.T: 02 794802. M1 San Babila. Map G4GLOBE—An elegant lounge bar and restaurant witha panoramic terrace on the 8th floor of Coin, one ofthe city’s best-stocked and trendiest departmentstores. The aperitivo comes with a rustic buffet inccold cuts and cheeses but also platters of select rawfish and upmarket wines. From 6.30pm to 9.30pmevery day (Mondays till 9pm). www.globeinmilano.it.Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. Map H5LE BICICLETTE—A trendy bar-restaurant combo inthe Navigli area, inspired by the world of bicycles. Amodern, minimalist ambience and a meeting placefor fashion and design personalities. Also organizesfirst-rate cocktail events and art exhibitions. Opendaily 8pm-midnight. Happy hour 6pm-9.30pm.www.lebiciclette.com. Via Torti corner of corsoGenova. T: 02 8394177. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D6METROPOLIS—Lounge-bar & Restaurant, ameeting place for friends and business associatesand the ideal place to relax and have an aperitivoafter work. Just a short distance from theStazione Centrale. From 6.30pm to 9.30pm. www.cafemetropolis.it. Via V. Pisani, 5. T: 02 67171746. M3Repubblica. Map G2PASTICCERIA BIFFI—A pasticceria establishedin 1847, its name is linked to the invention of“panettone”, the famous Milanese Christmascake, exported throughout the world. A tasteof old Milan: quality and impeccable service. Inthe late afternoon, it serves traditional aperitiviaccompanied by a buffet. Open every day from6.30am to 8.30pm. www.biffipasticceria.it. CorsoMagenta, 87. T: 02 48006702. Map C5REFEEL—Located in the elegant, historically richPorta Romana area, Refeel offers its clientele arelaxed, low-key ambience and is the perfectplace to gossip over a Gin Fizz cocktail. Differentatmospheres for different times of the day.The kitchen is open every day from 10am. Jazzevenings on Tuesdays. Aperitivo from 6.30pm to9.30pm. www.refeel.it. Viale Sabotino, 20.T: 02 58324227. M3 Porta Romana. Map H7ROIALTO—A spacious, elegant bar-restaurant,distinguished by several buffets counters and awide selection of cocktails. Aperitivo from 6pm to10am. Closed on Mon. www.roialtogroup.it. Via P.della Francesca, 55. T: 02 34936616. Map B1SANT’AMBROEUS— A traditional meeting place,since 1936, just a few steps away from theTeatro alla Scala. The aperitivo spread includesinternational cocktails and delicious appetizersbased on the theme of the day: oysters, salmonor Parma ham. Open Tues-Sun 7.30am-8.30pm.Aperitivo from 5.30pm to 20.30pm. Closed onMon. www.santambroeusmilano.it. Corso G.Matteotti, 7. T: 02 76000540. M1 San Babila. Map G4TRUSSARDI CAFÉ—Located on the ground floorof Palazzo Trussardi in Piazza della Scala and runby the chef, Andrea Berton, this is the ideal placefor those more relaxed moments. Complete withan outdoor area and a vertical garden, it providesan eco-sustainable backdrop for trendy aperitivi.Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm; Sat noon-11pm. www.trussardi.it/trussardi_cafe. Piazza della Scala, 5.T: 02 80688295. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5ZUCCA—Zucca in the Galleria Vittorio EmanueleII is much more than just a historic café, it is aninstitution. After performances at La Scala, Verdiand Toscanini were known to stop here for anightcap. Today, it still offers a great aperitivo. Anexperience well worth trying. www.caffemiani.it. Piazza del Duomo, 21. T: 02 86464435. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5BrunchCIRCLE—This “lounge & restaurant” is situated in theheart of the design district, in the Tortona area, atthe Diesel Headquarters. Trendy and innovative,it is open from 7.30 in the morning to 2 at night.There is always music, with great food. Brunch onSaturdays noon to 4pm. Closed on Sunday. www.circlemilano.com. Via E. Stendhal, 36. T: 02 42293745.M2 Sant’Agostino. Map B7Milanese“Happy Hour”Milan is the home of the Aperitivo andHappy Hour in the city is most definitely aritual which no Milanese worth his/her saltis prepared to forego. The Aperitivo, thebeloved Milanese tradition of pre-dinnerdrinks, is accompanied by complimentary“stuzzichini” and an all-you-can-eat buffet.Spreads range from traditional olives, nuts.cheeses and potato chips to awesomepasta dishes, bruschetta, cold cuts, crudités,raw fish and fruit salads. Generally, lastingfor 3 hours from 6 to 9pm (though mostpeople rarely get there until 7pm), theaperitivo scene has become an eveningmeeting for people of all ages. Cocktails –alcoholic or not – are expertly mixed and a“Negroni”, “Negroni sbagliato” (a deliciousmix of prosecco, red vermouth and Aperolinstead of gin) or a “Spritz” are Milanesespecialities.Drink prices range from about €7-10although several of the more luxe, upmarketplaces might ask as much as €15. A greatway of relaxing at the end of a long day andthe perfect opportunity to enjoy a fabulouscocktail paired with good food at affordableprices.DESEO—Just a short distance from the Arco dellaPace, an elegant, people-filled lounge-restaurantwith a good vibe. There is also a small tobacconist’sfor the joy of smokers. Sunday brunch from noon to3.30pm. Corso Sempione, 2. T: 02 315164. Map D3GLOBE—Sophisticated lounge bar and restaurant witha panoramic terrace on the eighth floor of Coin, oneof the best-stocked and trendiest department storesin the city. Its Sunday brunch, served from noon to4pm, offers an array of Mediterranean specialities.Reservations advisable. www.globeinmilano.it. PiazzaCinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. Map H5H CLUB DIANA—Bar-foyer of the hotel Sheraton DianaMajestic, renowned for its Sunday brunch and itshappy hour which goes on until 10pm. Open dailyfrom 10am to 1am. Live Dj on Tuesday, Wednesdayand Thursday evenings. www.sheraton.com/www.wheretraveler.com 51

Entertainmentdianamajestic. Viale Piave, 42. T: 02 20581. M1 PortaVenezia. Map H3JAZZ CAFÉ—A chic trendy location offering aneclectic cuisine and elegant entertainment, in aninformal, friendly atmosphere. Its brunch is servedon Saturdays and Sundays from 11.30am to 3pm.www.ristorantejazzcafe.com. Corso Sempione, 8.T: 02 33604039. Map D2METROPOLIS—A meeting place for the metropolitantribe and business people. Brunch is served onSaturdays and Sundays from 12.30am to 3pm. Justa short distance from the Stazione Centrale. www.cafemetropolis.it. Via V. Pisani, 5. T: 02 67171746. M3Repubblica. Map G2PANDENUS—In one of the city’s trendiest, multiethnicareas, even a bakery can become a fun, cityfavourite. Its name in dialect means “nut bread”. Aparadise of Italian treats, including pizzas, focacciaand freshly baked cakes and brioches, to be boughtor eaten on the spot. A “not-to-be-missed” brunch isserved on the weekend from noon to 4pm. Informalaperitivo every day from 6pm to 9.30pm. www.pandenus.it. Via A. Tadino, 15. T: 02 29528016. M1Porta Venezia. Map H2REFEEL—Located in the elegant, historically rich PortaRomana area, Refeel is an excellent combinationof elegance and vitality. Different atmospheres fordifferent times of the day. The kitchen is open everyday from 10am. Jazz evenings on Tuesdays. Brunchis served on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to4pm. www.refeel.it. Viale Sabotino, 20. T: 02 58324227.M3 Porta Romana. Map H7TRIENNALE DESIGN CAFÉ—Set against the backdropof one of the most important museums in the city, itoffers a traditionally American-style brunch. Elegantthough informal, it is also suitable for children. Atrendy bar and an exclusive restaurant resultingfrom the expertise of the chef Carlo Cracco and thearchitect Michele De Lucchi. Brunch on Sun from11.45am to 4.30pm. Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 875441.M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4Casino & GamblingCASINO DI LUGANO—The third largest Swissfinancial market and an important tourist hub,Lugano is home to the famous casino nestlingon the banks of Lake Lugano. Defined as a “playboutique” on account of its stylish, alluringatmosphere, it operates an all games casino foran unlimited number of tables and slot machines.Restaurant with panoramic terrace, offering aspecial business lunch menu during the day.Open Sun-Thurs 12am-4am. Fri-Sat 12am–5am.www.casinolugano.ch. Via Stauffacher, 1 - Lugano(Switzerland). T:0041.91.9737111. About 70km fromMilan. Off MapCASINO DI SAINT VINCENT—The small town ofSaint Vincent, home to the famous casino since1947, is set within the magnificent mountainousregion of the Valle d’Aosta, a well-known touristdestination for weekends and holiday breaks. Inaddition to all the main games, it also offers a richevents calendar. Open Mon-Thurs 7pm-10.30pm;Fri and Sun 7pm-12am; Sat 7pm-1am. www.casinodelavallee.it. via I. Mus, 1 - Saint-Vincent(Aosta). T:0166.5221. Off MapCASINO MUNICIPALE DI CAMPIONE D’ITALIA—Though existing outside of its fatherland, this tinypiece of Italian soil, located in Switzerland, is hometo Europe’s largest Casino and can be reached in justunder an hour from the centre of Milan. Its beautifulnew headquarters, designed by the architectMario Botta, are set within an elegant, internationalambience. The casino offers roulette, chemin de fer,baccarat, black jack, poker and slot machines. It alsohas two in-house restaurants. Open Sun 10.30pm-5am; Mon-Thurs 11.30pm-5am; Fri 11.30pm-6am; Sat10.30pm-6am. www.casinocampione.it. PiazzaleMilano, 2 - Campione d’Italia (CO). T:00800.80077700(free phone). About 70km from Milan. Off MapWINCITY—A “not-to-be-missed” opportunity forthose who love gambling and betting: the newconcept Wincity is a 900 sq.m location that offerssome hundred different games including the latestgeneration slot machines, video lotteries and anautomatic roulette system but also tasting eventswith live music. This entertainment venue housesa restaurant serving typical Italian cuisine and alounge bar. An innovative touch is the presence of aPersonal Player to assist customers and outline playprocedures and methods. Smokers’ area available.www.sisalwincity.it. Torre Martini, piazza Diaz, 7. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5Concert Venues & Theatres10 CORSO COMO CAFÉ—Lounge bar (with adjoiningrestaurant) located inside a vast complex dedicatedto shopping and entertainment (art, fashionand design) founded in 1990 by the publisherand gallerist Carla Sozzani. Open Mon 6pm-1am;Tues-Fri 12pm-1am; Sat 11pm-2am; Sun 11pm-1am.www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10.T: 02 29013581. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F1ALCATRAZ—Formerly an old car repair shop, thismulti-functional venue, extending over some 3,000sq.m., hosts international pop and rock concertsbut is also used as a facility for gala dinners, fashionshows and dance in the discotheque area. www.alcatrazmilano.com. Via Valtellina, 25. T: 02 69016352.M3 Maciachini. Off MapANTEO SPAZIOCINEMA—An historic Milanese venue(currently a multiplex cinema) and a favourite hauntof “auteur” film aficionados, it hosts festivals, outdoorscreenings in summer, retrospectives, seminarsand original language screenings. Other on-sitefacilities include the Osteria del Cinema restaurantand wine bar open throughout the year. www.spaziocinema.info. Via Milazzo, 9. T: 02 6597732. M2Moscova. Map F2AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE CARIPLO—Inaugurated in October, 1999, the Auditorium is oneof Milan’s premier concert halls (boasting a seatingcapacity of 1,400) and home to the Giuseppe VerdiSymphonic Orchestra and Milan Chorus. It alsoacts as a venue for visiting international jazz acts,symphony concerts and chamber music. www.laverdi.org. Largo G. Mahler. T: 02 83389401. Off MapBLUE NOTE—A branch of the famous New York,Tokyo and Nagoya venues, this is the new temple ofMilanese jazz and features world-class performersand big-names on the International music scene.True to tradition, it hosts two shows a night (at 9pmand 11.30pm, with dining option). Tickets only validfor one show. www.bluenotemilano.it. Via P. Borsieri,37. T: 02 69016888. M3 Zara. Off MapGIUSEPPE VERDI MUSIC CONSERVATORY—Foundedin 1808, this Conservatory is another of Milan’s mostillustrious venues for classical concerts and alsooffers a wide range of courses and cultural activities(masterclasses, seminars, performances, etc.). Manyfamous Italian musicians studied here – althoughoddly enough, the young Giuseppe Verdi wasrejected. There are two concert halls: the smaller SalaPuccini for chamber music and the bigger Sala Verdifor symphonic and choral music. www.consmilano.it.Via Conservatorio, 12. T: 02 7621101.M1 San Babila. Map H5PICCOLO TEATRO DI MILANO/TEATRO STREHLER—Founded in 1947 by director, Giorgio Strehler andimpresario, Paolo Grassi, it was the first Italian TheatreCompany to offer a “mixed” repertoire (internationaland Italian). Over the past 60 years it has producedover 280 performances by playwrights of the calibreof Shakespeare, Goldoni, Brecht, Cechov, Pirandelloand Goethe. www.piccoloteatro.org. Largo M.Greppi, 1. T:848.800.304. T: 02 42411889.M2 Lanza. Map E3SALUMERIA DELLA MUSICA (LA)—This old industrialwarehouse was listed among the 100 best jazzclubs in the world by the prestigious Americanmagazine, Down Beat. Over the years, it has hostedinternational star performers like Norah Jones andPat Metheny, but also rock, pop and soul concertsand cabaret acts. www.lasalumeriadellamusica.com.Via A. Pasinetti, 2. T: 02 56807350. Off MapSCIMMIE—An historic concert venue in the NaviglioPavese district. Though formerly only catering tojazz, it now also offers a variety of concerts featuringdifferent types of musical genres performed byemerging Italian talents or famous International stars.Drinks are available at the bar and club restaurant. Italso has an outdoor space in summer. www.scimmie.it. Via A. Sforza, 49. T: 02 89402874. Off MapTAM/TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI—Inauguratedin 2002, for three years it acted as Milan’s mainopera venue while the historic Teatro alla Scalawas being restored and restructured. Boasting aseating capacity of 2,400, it currently hosts a varietyof concerts ranging from classical music to rock andpop but also festivals, performances and TV shows.www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Viale dell’Innovazione, 1.T: 02 641142200. Off MapTEATRO ALLA SCALA—For over two centures, ahallowed temple of Milanese music and opera.Designed by Giuseppe Piermarini and inauguratedin 1778, it was recently totally refurbished underthe supervision of the renowned architect, MarioBotta. Today the theatre is recognized as one ofthe leading opera and ballet theatres in the worldand offers seasonal events including choral andorchestral works. Out-of-season events are also oftenorganized by private institutions and foundations.www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza della Scala (TicketOffice Via Filodrammatici, 2). T: 02 88791. M1-M3Duomo. Map F4TEATRO DAL VERME—Inaugurated in 1872, itwas formerly primarily used for plays and operaperformances. Recently refurbished and restructured(its auditorium boasts a seating capacity of 1,436) itnow belongs to the Municipality and the Province52 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

MILAN EXPERIENCECAFFÈ LETTERARIOLocated inside the Teatro Grassi and its 15th century cloisters,restored to their former glory following in-depth restructuringwork, the Caffè Letterario, run by Soti’s Events, offers itscustomers a catering service 7 days a week. In addition to beingavailable for business lunches, tempting happy hours anddelectable Sunday brunches, it is also open to the public duringthe performances held at the Fondazione Piccolo. Map E3www.sotisevents.comVia Rovello, 2T: 02 72333505More info: www.wheremilan.comBARRIQUESet in the elegant Brera district, it offers a truly interesting winelist. The cellar stocks a vast selection of Italian wines but alsogood international varieties. On offer an array of cold dishes withplatters of mixed cold cuts and Italian cheeses. Closed on Sat atlunch and on Sun. M2 Lanza. Map E3Via Anfiteatro, 12T: 02 80509260More info: www.wheremilan.comMORESKO HAMMAM CAFÉA corner of Istanbul transplanted in Milan. It offers an aperitivo withmassage included. Customers not only can taste typical foodsand beverages but also learn how to belly dance. Famed for itsprecious Argan Oil treatments and massages. Separate hammamfor men and women. Reservations necessary. M1 Gambara.Off mapwww.moresko.itVia Rubens, 19T: 02 4046936More info: www.wheremilan.comITSGOLFThe first, centrally situated, indoor golf course in Milan: ITSGOLFis located just a short distance from the vibrant and fashionableArco della Pace district, a favourite Milanese aperitivo spot.Open daily from 10am to 11pm, it has six rooms with simulatorsto enable you to indulge in your passion without wasting toomuch time. Includes a “ITSGOLF Café” for breakfast, snacks anddinner. Map B2www.itsgolf.itVia Domodossola, 9T: 02 36630500www.wheretraveler.com 53

Entertainmentof Milan and is a venue for concerts, plays and danceperformances as well as exhibitions and conferences.www.dalverme.org. Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 2.T: 02 87905. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli. Map E4TEATRO DELLA LUNA—The first Italian theatredesigned exclusively for international musicals andtheir imposing stage sets. Located on the outskirtsof Milan (next to the Mediolanum Forum), it hasan 800 sq.m. stage and is designed to hold up to1,730 spectators. www.teatrodellaluna.com. Via G.Di Vittorio, 6 - Assago (MI).. T:199.128.800. (accessibleonly from Italian numbers) Shuttle bus from M2Famagosta. Off MapNightlifeARMANI/PRIVÉ—Elegant and selective, this is afavourite Milanese haunt with VIPs, models andaesthetes of all ages. Its fabulous cosmopolitanatmosphere is the perfect place for a drink or a spinon the dance floor to the sounds of seductive DJsets. Make sure to call ahead to get a table. OpenWed-Thurs 11.30pm-2.30am; Fri-Sat 11.30pm-3am.www.armaninobu.it. Via A. Manzoni, 31.T: 02 62312655. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4BEACH (THE)—A Disco & Restaurant situated on theoutskirts of the city. The perfect place to escapefrom the hustle and bustle of city life. Its white décor,its wooden dance floor resembling those foundin pleasure-craft and its green lawn illuminated bysoft lights make it a reference point of the Milanesemovida, not only in summer. Times vary dependingon the night of the week. Open Fri-Sun 9pm-4am.www.thebeachmilano.com. Via A. Corelli, 62.T: 02 70201011. Off MapCAFÉ ATLANTIQUE—Located in an historic venue,this cool combo of disco and restaurant is renownedfor its stellar interior. Favoured by the Milanesebusiness crowd and celeb VIPs, it is known for theorganization of important corporate events. Timesvary depending on the night of the week. Open Fri-Sat 11pm-4am. www.cafeatlantique.it. Viale Umbria,42. T: 199.111111. M3 Lodi. Off MapG. LOUNGE—An evocative location that still bearswitness to its past as the first billiards hall in Milan.Often used as a setting for commercials, this is theperfect place for fabulous parties. Open Mon-Sat7.30am-3am. www.glounge.it. Via Larga, 8. T: 028053042. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5GATTOPARDO CAFÉ (IL)—A unique venue, located ina 19th century church that was deconsecrated in the70’s. Sometimes used as a setting for films, its nameis a tribute to the masterpiece by Visconti and stillexudes a feeling of opulent elegance. Open Thurs,Fri and Sat 6pm-5am; Tues, Wed and Sun 6pm-1am.www.ilgattopardocafe.it. Via P. della Francesca,47.T: 02 34537699. Map B1JUST CAVALLI HOLLYWOOD—Dinner-club ownedby Roberto Cavalli, a designer of world-renownedfame. A Milanese hot spot for beautiful people, thiselegant club, with its ultra-innovative, glamorousinterior, is located inside Parco Sempione, one of thegreen lungs of the city. A fabulous location whereyou can drink, dine and dance till the small hours ofthe morning. A chic haven for VIPs and fashionistas.Aperitivo, dinner and after dinner: every day from8pm to 3am. www.justcavallihollywood.it. Via L.Camoens at the Torre Branca. T: 02 311817. M1-M2Cadorna FN. Map D3OLD FASHION CAFÉ—An historic Milanese locationlying adjacent to Parco Sempione and Milan’sTriennale. Aperitivi and dinner are served outsidein summer or inside in winter. Things really startbuzzing after midnight when the dance floorbecomes crowded with entrepreneurs, supermodelsand VIPs. Dinner 8.30pm-11.30pm; disco till 3am.Closed on Tues and Thurs. www.oldfashion.it. VialeAlemagna, 6. T: 02 8056231. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4WellnessACCADEMIA DEL BELL’ESSERE PAOLO GUATELLI—Over 1000 sq.m. of wellbeing, a holistic centre for therejuvenation of body and mind. Bell’Essere is a cityspa and image studio created by the internationalmake-up designer Paolo Guatelli, offering beautytreatments and make-up sessions. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Sun by appointment only. www.accademiadelbellessere.it. Via Mecenate, 76/24.T: 02 5098701. Off MapSay Whereand sit wellLocated in one of the most picturesquedistricts in Milan, on the Naviglio Pavese, LeScimmie is a “viby”, unusual Concert Venueand Restaurant, established in June 1981 bySergio Israel who still, today, runs the placewith Monica Carletti. The restaurant offersan international menu boasting regionaland seasonal cuisine and a front row areafor concerts. Also has a great wine list andWi-Fi coverage. The Music Room offersa daily programme of all types of culturalmusic, with a propensity for jazz which, forthe past thirty years, has made it one of thecity’s best.SOME OF JANUARY EVENTSFriday 14 • Dreamers (rockabilly & 60’s rock’n’roll)Monday 17 • Lucio Terzano, Tony Arco, Dino Rubino and Rino Cirinna (jazz)Friday 21 • Boggio Ferraris, Riccardo Fioravanti, Stefano Bagnoli and Mirko Mignone (jazz)Wednesday 26 • Garage 29 (psychedelic indie-rock)Sunday 30 • I Figli della Vedova (easy 90’s rock)www.scimmie.it. Via A. Sforza, 49. T: 02 89402874Open Mon-Sat 8 pm-2 am (check the events schedule for exceptions)PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE54 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

EntertainmentAQUAE CALIDAE—Right in the heart of town, a day spathat conjures up the Roman baths in a modern-daykey. The perfect place to take a break, it offers a varietyof treatments for the mind, body and soul, includingmarine scrubs and massages using ancient Romantechniques such as the “X-bioage cationic resin mask”.Open Sat-Sun 11am-8pm. www.aquaecalidae.it. ViaSanta Sofia, 14. T: 02 58430269. M3 Crocetta. Map F6ATOMIC SPA SUISSE—Futuristic cosmetic treatments,using chromatic light and ultrasound, and exclusiveproducts whose ingredients include champagne, rosepetals and pure gold. A part of the fabulous BoscoloExedra Hotel in Milan, it has been described as “a workcapable of touching the emotions”. It has treatmentcabins, sauna, Turkish bath, large swimming pool withhydro massage jets and a relaxation area. Open dailyfrom 10am to 8pm. www.spasuisse.com. Corso G.Matteotti, 4/6. T: 02 22229702. M1 San Babila. Map G4BE ONE CLUB—Wellness, beauty and fitness underone roof: from the fitness area to the fully equippedgym, right up to the spa and wellness area offeringa wide selection of beauty treatments. Specialwellness programmes customized to suit individualrequirements such as the Business treatment designedto help you de-stress from work. Open Mon-Fri 7am-11pm; Sat and Sun 10am-7pm. www.beoneclub.it.Corso Sempione, 10. T: 02 89702100. Map D3BEUNIQUE—This first BeUnique centre, opened inJune, 2010, is a ultra-new concept and the perfectspot for those in search of technology at the serviceof wellbeing. BeUnique prides itself on the ongoingsearch for cutting-edge methodologies in face andbody treatments. By appointment only. Open: Mon-Sat9am-8pm. www.beuniquemilano.it. Via M. Gonzaga, 5.T: 02 39663676. M3 Missori. Map F5BULGARI RESTORT—Set within a large park, in the heartof Brera, between La Scala and via Montenapoleone, itis located within the eponymous hotel. In keeping withcontemporary wellness rituals, it offers a sumptuous,elegant setting featuring a Turkish bath, swimmingpool and relaxation area. A full range of treatmentsalways on offer. You can prolong this heady experienceby finishing the day with an aperitivo in the garden.www.bulgarihotels.com. Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b.T: 02 8058051. M3 Montenapoleone. Map GFCULTI—Luxury is moulded to suit individual needsin this highly sophisticated spa based on a winningidea by Alessandro Agrati. It offers a vast range ofrevolutionary therapies ranging from a mani-pedisuite to vasodilatory treatments on water-heatedstone beds. An absolute “must” is the Relax loungewhere, amidst plants and tealights, customers can sipherbal infusions. It also offers numerous treatments formen and sells the famous body and home perfumescarrying the Culti trademark. Open Tues-Fri 9am-9pm;Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. www.cultidayspa.it. Via A. Mauri, 5.T: 02 48517588. M1 Pagano. Map B5CULTI SPA - MAISON MOSCHINO—Dresses, fragrances,a piece of furniture, a massage: this exclusive CultiSpa offers a range of relaxing treatments in a sleek,contemporary atmosphere that remains infusedwith a feeling of effortless sophistication. Sensitivelypositioned lights create beautifully cast shadows onlavish textiles and carefully selected objects, clearevidence of its dedication to la dolce vita. Open10am-10pm. www.maisonmoschino.com. VialeMontegrappa, 12. T: 02 29009858. M2 Porta GaribaldiFS. Map F2DOWNTOWN PALESTRE—This club, patronized bycelebrities and models, boasts a contemporary,dynamic atmosphere. A fully equipped gym, waterspace and fabulous comfort area: Turkish bath, Scottishshower, aromarium and spa. All types of treatmentsare available. Day passes can also be booked on thewebsite. Open Mon-Fri 7am-midnight; Sat-Sun 10am-2am. www.downtownpalestre.it. Piazza Cavour, 2. T:02 76317233. M3 Turati, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3;Via Gonzaga, 2. T: 02 86311840. M1-M3 Duomo, M3Missori. Map F5GETFIT CITY CLUB—An oasis of tranquillity just a stone’sthrow from the Duomo (but it also has other locations),offering exclusive services and a sophisticatedambiance. A day pass will give you access to thecrystal-clear swimming pool, the gym equipped withall the latest cutting-edge technology, a thermariumwith sauna, Turkish bath, Thalasso bath, hydro massageand tropical shower, wellness centre. Mon-Fri 7am-10.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.getfit.it. Via Falcone,5. T: 02 94435063. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5HEALTHY CENTER DAY SPA & STUDIO—A small retreatin the centre of town, for those in search of a made-tomeasurespa experience. Access to the spa includesan hour and a half of Thalasso therapy, Kneipp spatreatment, sauna, Turkish bath and thermal showers.Massages by appointment only. Experts, including anosteopath, are available to draw up personal exercisecharts. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.hcdayspa.it. Piazza Pio XI, 1. T: 02 8692145.M1-M3 Duomo. Map E5MORESKO HAMMAM CAFÉ—A corner of Istanbultransplanted in Milan. It offers an aperitivo withmassage included. Customers not only can tastetypical foods and beverages but also learn how tobelly dance. Separate hammam for men and women.Reservations necessary. www.moresko.it. Via P.P.Rubens, 19. T: 02 4046936. M1 Gambara. Off MapSKORPION—An exclusive gym located in San Babila,featuring a fitness centre, fully equipped gym, twounderground swimming pools (one for swimming theother for acquagym) and a pool with hydro massagejets. Day passes available for use of all facilities fromthe early morning onwards. Various activities alsoavailable for children. Kneipp spa treatments in thelocker rooms. www.skorpioncenter.it. Mon-Fri 7.30am-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,24.. M1 San Babila. Map G5SPA PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA—Ultra-luxurious spa and gymwith a magnificent panoramic view over the whole ofMilan. Located on the top floor of this prestigious hotel,it is necessary to book a treatment or a package with achoice between massages, face and body treatments,in one of the beautifully furnished treatment andmassage rooms. The pool area, extending over 150sq.m., with its heated swimming pool, sauna, hydromassage and Turkish bath, will offer you unforgettablemoments of relaxation, together with the terrace andoutdoor solarium. Open Mon-Sun 7am-10pm. www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 17.T: 02 62301. M3 Repubblica. Map G2TERMEMILANO—Opened in 2006, against thebackdrop of the 16th century walls erected byFerrante Gonzaga, this prestigious Spa offers visitorsa marvellous oasis of relaxation in the heart of thecity. Located in a large, Liberty-style building, in theelegant Porta Romana district, it combines history andarchitecture with the most cutting-edge technologiesto offer a multi-sensory experience boasting over30 wellness treatments. Children under 14 are notadmitted. Open: Sun-Thurs 10am-10pm. Fri-Sat 10am-11pm. www.termemilano.com. PiazzaleMedaglie d’Oro, 2 corner of via Filippetti.T: 02 55199367. M3 Porta Romana. Map H7Wine BarsBARRIQUE WINE BAR (LE)—Set in the elegant Breradistrict, it offers a truly interesting wine list. Thecellar stocks a vast selection of Italian wines butalso good international varieties. On offer an arrayof cold dishes with platters of mixed cold cutsand Italian cheeses. Closed on Sat at lunch and onSun. Via Anfiteatro, 12. T: 02 80509260.M2 Lanza. Map E3CADENHEAD’S WHISKY BAR—A Whisky bar whereyou can taste or purchase as many as 3,000different labels. Also up for tasting are differenttypes of rum, gin, port, sherry and champagne.An array of spirits that have been collected over aperiod of fifty years with a prevalence of Scottishproducts. Open Mon 3.30pm-midnight; Tues-Sat10am-0pm. www.cadenhead.it. Via Poliziano, 3.T: 02 33605592. Map C1ENOTECA CANTINE ISOLA—An unusual venuewhere wine and poetry are celebrated in tandem.One of the first places to offer wine tastings andalso one of the few that imports German (it offersa selection of lables from 77 exceptional vintners)and Cypriot wines. On offer everyday are greataperitivi featuring some of the best wines in theworld. Every first week of the month clients cansavour a glass of “superlative wine” while Tuesdaysare given over to poetry readings. Closed on Mon.Via P. Sarpi, 30., T: 02 3315249. Map D2ENOTECA N’OMBRA DE VIN—Nestling in one ofMilan’s most romantic areas, right next to themagnificent San Marco Church in Brera, thiswine shop, inaugurated in 1973, offers Italianand international wines and also boasts a wideselection of oils, spirits and liqueurs. The shop,which is also a wine bar, is open throughout theday from 9 in the morning to 1am. Closed on Sun.www.nombradevin.it. Via San Marco, 2.T: 02 6599650. M2 Lanza. Map F3NOTTINGHAM FOREST—It is instantly apparentwhy this venue, inaugurated in 2008, was voted“Best Bar in the World” by Class Magazine, London:its cocktails, a mixture of oriental, Caribbean andAfrican ingredients, are both exotic and original.Try drinks featuring dried ants from the Amazoniaarea or gold or pearl dust presented in shells.Absolutely ingenious. www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1., T: 02 798311.M1 Palestro. Map H4VINICOLA ROTONDI—In the heart of the Isoladistrict, this wine bar is one of Milan’s mosthistoric. Young hopefuls who have subsequentlybecome famous like, for example, SilvioBerlusconi, have raised their glasses to successhere. It offers an old-world atmosphere andshelves stocked with fine wines. Excellentvalue for money and an array of superb Italianand international labels. Closed on Sun. www.vinicolarotondi.com. Piazzale Lagosta, 2.T: 02 6684293. M3 Zara. Off Mapwww.wheretraveler.com 55

Museums & AttractionsThe Future and FuturismSeventy five years ago, Italian art was in the final stages of Futurism, an artistic genre that explored all typesof expressive forms, reflecting upon and highlighting the dynamism of a period of major transformations.An important selection of Futurist works, together with several other testimonies of the twentieth century,are currently on display at the new Museo del Novecento, in piazza Duomo. Palazzo dell’Arengario, thebuilding that houses the recently restructured museum, also dates back to the Thirties.www.museodelnovecento.org. Piazza Duomo. T: 02 88444061For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comMonuments & Places of InterestDUOMO – Among one of the most important(and majestic) Gothic buildings in the world, thechurch, constructed on and off over a period of450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan.Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedralis divided by soaring pillars into five naves, thelargest of which measures 45 metres in height.It has 135 spires and its inside columns measure3 and a half metres in diameter. To experiencethe Duomo at its most majestic you mustascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps)where you will be surrounded by an outburstof pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and,naturally, the city’s famed golden Madonnina.The cathedral is open daily 8.30am-6.45pm.Admission free. Guided visit in English everySaturday 10am (including Cathedral, Baptisteryand Cathedral rooftops by lift) €20. Info point viaArcivescovado, 1 (open 9am-noon/1pm-6pm).www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo.T: 02 72023375. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5BRERA – Home, since 1776, to an importantAcademy of Fine Arts, this is an artsyneighbourhood which really comes to life atnight. In addition to several churches, the districtalso hosts a number of interesting galleries andantique shops. One of the areas in the city isparticularly known for its nightlife. Pubs, windowdisplays, stalls and quaint fortune tellers meldwith important places of culture. For museums inBrera, see “Entertainment” section. Via Brera andsurrounding areas. M2 Lanza. Map E3-F3CASTELLO SFORZESCO – The ancient seat of theruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by FrancescoSforza and is now simply know by the Milaneseas “Il Castello”. Demolished and reconstructedseveral times from 1300 onwards, it has servedas the backdrop for numerous historic events.Today, it houses a number of interestingmuseums and libraries. Its park is a favouritewith old and young alike. Castle: open daily7am-6pm. Free admission. Castle Museums:Tues through Sunday 9am-5.30pm. Full ticket €3.SUBSCRIBE TO WHEREMILAN NEWSLETTER at www.wheremilan.com: your free update on Milan!www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello, 1.T: 02 88463700. M1-M2 Cadorna FN; M1 Cairoli;M2 Lanza. Map E4CENACOLO – One of the most famous attractionsin the world, “L’Ultima Cena” or “Cenacolo” byLeonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large muralpainting representing the scene of the lastsupper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can befound in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.Tues to Sun 8.15am-7pm. English guided tour9.30am and 3.30pm. Reservation compulsory.Full ticket €6.50. www.cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 0292800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione.Map D4CIMITERO MONUMENTALE (MONUMENTALCEMETERY) – A real outdoor museum catering,on the one hand, to the whims of the elite ofMilan’s society and, on the other, to works of artby famous sculptors of various eras. Among thenotables buried here are Alessandro Manzoniand Arturo Toscanini. Open Tues-Sun from8am-6pm. Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale. T: 0288465600. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map D1-E1PHOTO © GIANNI CONGIU56 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

Museums & AttractionsGuidelinesThis directory, grouped by category, is a listof establishments recommended by theeditors of Where Magazine and includes regularadvertisers.MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in BOLD at the end ofeach listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinateson the street maps on pages 62-63.INFORMATIONPlaces like the Duomo or the Last Supper aresymbols of Milan, hence our decision to list themunder a separate category.Museums displaying the red symbol arethose entitling AmaMi Card holderseither to free entrance or a discount onexhibitions. More information aboutAmaMi Card (where to buy it, how to useit and advantages) can be found on page 77 under“Essentials”.GALLERIA – Sometimes known as “the living-roomof the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade,housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops,is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautifulglass cupola and measures 196 metres in length.Tradition has it that placing your right heel onthe bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, andthen spinning around inside it, will bring goodluck. Piazza Duomo-Piazza della Scala. M1-M3Duomo. Map F5GIUSEPPE MEAZZA STADIUM (also known as SanSiro) – The famous Milan football stadium, hometo Inter and AC Milan, was inaugurated in 1926. Itwas completely renovated in 1990. For stadiumevents, see section on “Entertainment”. www.sansiro.net. Via dei Piccolomini, 5. T: 02 4042432.M1 Lotto. Off MapNAVIGLI – The “Navigli” are artificial canals built800 years ago to ferry people and merchandiseto Milan, to irrigate the fields and to defend thecity. The network of canals was perfected in 1457by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area, burstingwith trendy dining and nightlife spots, is one ofthe main hubs of the Milanese movida. M2 PortaGenova FS. Map D7-E7SCALA (LA) – The world’s premier opera house,built at the behest of Empress Maria Teresaof Austria and designed by Piermarini, itwas inaugurated in 1778 with an opera byAntonio Salieri. For more information, also see“Entertainment”. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazzadella Scala. T: 02 72003744. Open daily 9am-6pm.Closed on November 1. M1-M3 Duomo; M3Montenapoleone. Map F4STAZIONE CENTRALE – The Central RailwayStation, the largest rail hub in Italy, is also animpressive work of architecture. Inaugurated in1931, it is characterized by an imposing whitestone facade. Platform 21 has a commemorativeplaque testifying to the deportation of the Jewsbetween 1943-44. Piazza Duca d’Aosta. M2-M3Centrale FS. Map H1MuseumsACQUARIO DI MILANO –Housed in a splendid Liberty-style building, it isone of the largest and oldest of its kind in Italy.Established in 1906 and restructured in 2006, ithosts 36 gigantic pools filled with more than 100species of fish, living in recreated environmentsranging from the Amazon to the Mediterranean.The main focus of the pools is more towardsnative Italian fish, both fresh and saltwater, andplenty of exotic sea life from other continents.The aquarium hosts events whole suitable for thefamily and the library is one of the most importantresources for marine biology and oceanic studiesin Italy. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm.www.acquariocivicomilano.eu. Viale G. Gadio, 2.T: 02 88465750. M2 Lanza. Map E4AMBROSIANA PICTURE GALLERY – The“Ambrosiana” contains several exquisite worksSPOTLIGHTof art from the 15th through 17th centuries andincludes “The musician”, attributed to Leonardo,Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens”fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of fruit”. TheAmbrosiana will be exhibiting Leonardo’s entire“Codice Atlantico” (Atlantic Codex) until 2015, 44or 45 pages at a time for three months at a stretch– the longest the International archival norms willallow such documents to be exposed to light.Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for grouptickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2.T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5BOSCHI DI STEFANO HOUSE MUSEUM – Onceinhabited by the married couple Antonio Boschiand Marieda Di Stefano, the Boschi Di StefanoHouse Museum has been open to the publicsince February 2003. The collection–paintings,sculptures and drawings – is an extraordinarytestimony to the history of Twentieth CenturyItalian art. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Freeadmission. www.fondazioneboschidistefano.it.Via G. Jan, 15. T: 02 74281000. M1 Lima. Off MapCIVIC ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM –Found in the cloister of an old monastery – theMonastero Maggiore di San Maurizio – datingback to the 8th century A.D., it houses Greek,Etruscan, Roman and medieval works of art(the Dark Ages section is temporarily closed).Conversely, prehistoric and Egyptian art arehoused in the Castello Sforzesco. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €2.www.comune.milano.it. Corso Magenta, 15. T: 0286450011. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli. Map E5CONTEMPORARY HISTORY MUSEUM – Heir to theformer “War Museum”, it exhibits material relatedto the two World Wars: paintings and sculpturesbut also memorabilia, banners, weapons, official“PIRELLONE” – Designed by the famous architect,Gio Ponti, it was inaugurated in 1960. Standing127.10 metres tall, until a few years ago, the Pirelli“skyscraper” was the highest building in Milan.Although today, even higher buildings are goingup, the “Pirellone” (i.e. “big Pirelli”) still remainsone of the symbols of the city. Open to visitson Saturday. Booking required. www.regione.lombardia.it. Piazza Duca d’Aosta. T: 02 45487400.M2-M3 Centrale FS. Map F1.SANT’AMBROGIO – One of the most ancientchurches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose(patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an areawhere numerous martyrs had been buried. Thechurch is a wonderful example of Romanesquestyle. Open daily 9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm-6pm (Sun 3pm-pm). Admission free. www.santambrogio-basilica.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio,15. T: 02 86450895 (10am-noon/4pm-6 pm).M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5The Last SupperOne of the most famous attractions in the world, “L’UltimaCena” or “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th centurymural painting representing the scene of the last supper ofJesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church ofSanta Maria delle Grazie. Booking required: ask your concierge.www.cenacolovinciano.net.www.wheretraveler.com 57

Museums & AttractionsHouse Museums in MilanA cumulative Card is availablefor the four historic housemuseums, all situated in thecentre of Milan (adults €15,reduced €10). The MuseoBagatti Valsecchi, the BoschiDi Stefano House Museum,the Villa Necchi Campiglioand the Museo Poldi Pezzoli(see also pages 71, 72, 74)are fascinating places that allhave one thing in common,namely the generosityof their founders, whoopened their homes andart collections to the public.Visitors will have a chanceto learn more about thepersonal stories and tastesof their owners – a reflectionof the evolution anddocuments and private letters. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission.www.museodimilano.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6.T: 02 88465933/76006964. M1 San Babila, M3Montenapoleone. Map G4FONDAZIONE ARNALDO POMODORO – TheFoundation, which was established in 1995 andin 1997 officially recognized by the Ministryof Culture obtained definitive recognition asa museum from the Region of Lombardy in2007. According to its statute, the purposeof the Foundation is to guarantee correctinformation concerning all the works of theItalian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, and topromote detailed information regarding thefounder’s oeuvre, for both the general publicand as an educational tool for art schools. OpenWed-Sun 11am-7pm; Thu 11am-10pm. Admissionfree the second Sunday of the month. www.fondazionearnaldopomodoro.it. Via Solari, 35.T: 02 89075394. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map C6FONDAZIONE FORMA – Instituted by the historicItalian photographic agency “Contrasto”, in just5 years this multi-functional facility has becomea reference point for important photographicexhibitions. Open daily from 11am-9pm and till11pm on Thurs and Fri. www.formafoto.it. Piazza T. L.Caro. T: 02 89075420. M2 Porta Genova F2. Off MapFONDAZIONE PRADA – This is a space dedicatedto innovative projects by contemporary artists,transformation of Milanesesociety.www.casemuseomilano.itMuseo Poldi Pezzolivia A. Manzoni, 12T: 02 794889/796334M3 MontenapoleoneMon, Wed-Sun 10am-6pmClosed on Tuesestablished in 1993 by arts patron Miuccia Pradaand her husband Patrizio Bertelli, heads of oneof the most famous fashion brands in the world.Home to installations and temporary exhibitions,Prada’s mission is to make it a temple of “accessibleculture” for the city. Opening times and informationvary according to the exhibitions on show. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via A. Fogazzaro, 36. Off MapGALLERIA CAMPARI – A vibrant, multimedia andinteractive venue which traces the history ofCampari through the expressions of modernand contemporary art from 1860 to today. Worksand advertising campaigns by internationallyrenowned artists of the calibre of FortunatoDepero, Bruno Munari and Ugo Nespolo. Campariposters and memorabilia can be purchased fromthe Gift & Book Shop. Free admission. Open Tues,Thurs, Fri 10am-7pm. www.campari.com. VialeGramsci, 161. Sesto San Giovanni (Milan). M1 Sesto1° Maggio FS. Off MapGALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA –Boasting 2,700 paintings and 700 sculptures,this Galleria inaugurated in 1921 is above all a“nineteenth century museum” hosting mainlyItalian and French works of art. Set against thebeautifully elegant backdrop of the Villa Reale,with its magnificent English garden. Open daily9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Closed on Mondays. Freeadmission. www.comune.milano.it. Via Palestro,16. T: 02 76340809 (10am-noon/3pm-4pm).M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. Map G3GIANNI COMENCINI MUSEUM OF CINEMA –Set against the evocative backdrop of thehistoric Palazzo Dugnani, this inspiring journeythrough the magic of cinema allows you todiscover the secrets of motion pictures with allits multi-faceted cultural, historical and socialaspects. Contains memorabilia and importantdocumentation regarding the evolution ofcinema in Milan and the rest of the worldincluding film excerpts and equipment used bythe Lumière brothers and George Méliès. OpenFri, Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price €3. www.cinetecamilano.it. Via D. Manin, 2b. T: 02 6554977.M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. Map G3HISTORIC CIVIC ARCHIVES AND TRIVULZIANALIBRARY – Hosted inside the Castello Sforzesco.The library can be accessed to examineparchments, documents, records and prints.The Historic Archive preserves all the acts of theMunicipality of Milan and of the Duchy dating backas far as 1385. Open Mon-Fri 9am-noon/1.30pm-4.30pm. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Castello, 1.T: 02 88463694. M1 Cairoli. Map E4LEONARDO DA VINCI NATIONAL MUSEUMOF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY – Found in a16th century monastery, this is one of the mostimportant museums of science and technologyin the world. Its collections, featuring cars, aircraft,ships, scooters, trains, reconstructions of ancientworkshops for metalworking, clock-making rightthrough to electronics, textiles and astronomy,explore the relationship between men andmachines starting from the ingenious inventionsof the world famous Leonardo da Vinci who livedin Milan between 1482 and 1500. Open Wed,Thurs, Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays10am-6.30pm. Full ticket price €8 + Guided tourinside the Enrico Toti submarine €10.www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21.T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map C5MANZONI’S HOUSE – Former home of the author,Alessandro Manzoni, second in Italian literatureonly to Dante, he lived here for about sixty yearsuntil his tragic death in 1873. Beautifully restoredin the ‘70’s, its wonderful interior is still preservedwith all its original furnishings. The house alsoboasts a large library with over 30,000 books,including the complete works of Manzonihimself. Open Tues-Sun 9am-noon/2pm-4pm.Free admission. www.museodimilano.mi.it.Via G. Morone, 1. T: 02 86460403. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F4MILAN MUSEUM – Dedicated to the urban andsocial development of Milan between the 17thand 18th centuries, at the beginning of March2010, the collection was enriched with collectionsof historic garments originating from the CastelloSforzesco’s Applied Arts Collection. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission.www.museodimilano.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6.T: 02 88465933/76006964. M1 San Babila;M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI – Located in the heartof Milan, this museum/house is one of the bestpreserved in Europe. Its evocative rooms houseprecious Renaissance collections: paintings,sculptures, weapons and armour, ceramics,jewellery and tapestries. Open Tues-Sun (exceptholidays) 1pm-5.45pm. Full price ticket €8 (€4 on58 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

Museums & AttractionsWednesdays). www.museobagattivalsecchi.org.Via Santo Spirito 10/Via Gesù, 5.T: 02 76006132/76014857. M1 San Babila,M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4MUSEO DEI POPOLI E DELLE CULTURE – ThePeoples and Cultures Museum, founded in 1910,is devoted to Oriental art and ethnographicobjects. On display, numerous objects linked tothe world of Asian religion, collected by Catholicmissionaries over the centuries. Open Mon-Fri9am-12.30am/2pm-6pm. Free admission. Via M.Bianchi, 94. T: 02 48009191. M1 Lotto. Off MapMUSEO DEL CASTELLO SFORZESCO –Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculpturesand musical instruments are housed in CastelloSforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The buildingalone is well worth a visit. Rooms 9, 10, 15, 23, 24not accessible to the disabled. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm (admission until 5pm), closed on Mondays(holidays included). Full price ticket €3. Freeadmittance: every day except Fri after 4.30pm; Fri2pm-5.30pm; always free for children under 18.www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello, 3.T: 02 88463703. M1 Cairoli. Map E4MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO – Four hundredmasterpieces of Italian and international twentiethcentury art at the newest Milanese museum,inaugurated on 6 December 2010. The displayarea extends over 4,000 square metres at Milan’srecently restructured Palazzo dell’Arengario, alsoa stunning example of 1930s-style architecture.On-site facilities include a well-stocked store and arestaurant which stays open until late at night. Freeadmission until 28 February. Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm;Tues, Wed, Fri, Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs, Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.museodelnovecento.org.Piazza Duomo. T: 02 88444061. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F5.MUSEO DIOCESANO – This museum of religiousarts, whose new headquarters were inauguratedin 2001, hosts 600 works dating back to the 4thcentury A.D. By maximizing their historic andreligious meanings, it preserves and promotesthe valuable art treasures belonging to the“Diocese”, with smaller pieces collected fromChurch museums and treasuries across Lombardy.Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Full ticket price€8 (€4 on Tuesdays). www.museodiocesano.it.Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95. T: 02 89420019.Map E7MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI – Formerly the aristocratichome of its founder, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli(1822-1879), it houses a remarkable collectionof Italian Renaissance masters: from Botticelli toMantegna, from Piero della Francesca to Tiepolo.It also displays weapons, ceramics, glass, textiles,clocks, watches and jewellery. Open Mon-Sun10am-6pm (closed on Tuesdays). Full ticket price€8. www.museopoldipezzoli.it. Via A. Manzoni,12. T: 02 794889/796334. M3 Montenapoleone.Map F4MUSEO TEATRALE ALLA SCALA – Foundedin 1913, it recently underwent an importantmakeover and is dedicated to the historyof the famous Milan Opera House with avast collection of musical instruments anddocuments dedicated to famous musicians,including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors canlook into the theatre, provided there are norehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stagedirections. Open Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am-12.30am/1.30pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €5. www.museodimilano.mi.it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 cornerof Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473/7423. M1-M3Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4MUSEUM OF CRIMINOLOGY AND ANTIQUEWEAPONS – Housed in 12th century towers,in the Sant’Ambrogio area, at the old entranceto the city, this small museum is the perfectplace for those who are fascinated by torture. Ithosts a fine collection of weapons, armour andhorrifying instruments of torture from Medievaltimes right up to the early nineteenth century.Open Mon-Sun 10am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Fullticket price €6.20. Via G. Carducci, 41.T: 02 8053505. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM –Home to valuable mineral, botanical andzoological collections. Highlights include alarge fossil collection, reconstructions of extinctanimals and dioramas with stuffed animalsshown in their natural habitats originating bothfrom Europe and other exotic places. It containsthe only dinosaur skeleton existing in Italy. OpenTues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €3 (freeadmission on Friday afternoon). www.comune.milano.it. Corso Venezia, 55. T: 02 88463280.M1 Palestro. Map H3PAC–CONTEMPORARY ART PAVILIONS– Completed in 1996, this 1,200 sq.m. spaceis the most important exhibition centre forcontemporary art in Milan, boasting a gardenarea for sculptures, a raised floor for paintingsand a balcony for photos and graphic works.Fully accessible by the disabled. Openinghours and ticket prices vary according to theexhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it.Via Palestro, 14. T: 02 88446359/360. M1 Palestro,M3 Turati. Map G3PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE – Built in the 13thcentury as a courthouse, the palazzo is located inone of the oldest and most picturesque squaresin the city. Renovated in the Eighties, it is now aprestigious exhibition space. Opening hours andticket prices vary according to the exhibition onshow. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Mercanti, 1.T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PALAZZO REALE – Formerly the residence of allthose who governed Milan, from Napoleon to theRoyal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currentlyone of the most important cultural centres in thecity, hosting exhibitions of international renown.Opening hours vary according to the exhibitionon show. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Duomo,12. T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5PINACOTECA DI BRERA –The Brera Art Gallery is one of the most importantmuseums in Milan. Its permanent collectionsoffer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian andforeign masterpieces including Mantegna’s“Dead Christ”, Raphael’s “Marriage of the Virgin”,Caravaggio’s “Supper at Emmaus” and, for a littlelight relief, “The Kiss” by Hayez. Open Tues-Sun8.30am-7.15pm. Full ticket price €11. www.brera.beniculturali.it. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza,M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3RISORGIMENTO MUSEUM –Located in the Brera district, the museumdepicts the Unification of the Kingdom of Italywith prints, paintings, sculptures, drawings,weapons and other memorabilia. The veryfirst Italian flag is housed here. Open Tues-Sun9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Full admission fee €2.Free for children under 18 and every Fridayafternoon. www.museodelrisorgimento.mi.it.Via Borgonuovo, 23. T: 02 88464177. M2 Lanza,M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3ROTONDA DELLA BESANA – Formerly usedas a cemetery and subsequently as the city’shospital, this evocative venue is currently anexhibition centre with porticoes and gardensopen to the public. Opening hours and ticketprices vary according to the exhibition onshow. www.comune.milano.it. Via Besana, 15.T: 02 5455047. Map H6. M3 Crocetta.STUDIO-MUSEUM FRANCESCO MESSINA –Located in the old deconsecrated Churchof S. Sisto, just a few steps from the Duomo,Francesco Messina, twentieth century Italiansculptor, chose the venue himself, consideringit an ideal spot to display the works that hehad donated to the city. Tues-Sat 2pm-6pm.Free admission. www.comune.milano.it. ViaSan Sisto, 4/A. T: 02 86453005. M1-M3 Duomo.Map E5TRIENNALE DESIGN MUSEUM – The Triennaledi Milano is one of the most vibrant, popularand important exhibition centres in the city.Featuring annually changing exhibitionsof note, it also owns the most importantpermanent collection of design works. Thisfantastic museum is brimming with endlessinstallations originating from brilliant minds allover the world. It has a superb media library ondesign, art and architecture. In 2006, in additionto the historic headquarters, a branch was alsoopened in the emerging Bovisa district. OpenTues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm; Thurs-Fri 10.30am-11pm. www.triennale.it. Viale E. Alemagna, 6.T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3ULRICO HOEPLI CIVIC PLANETARIUM –Planetarium activities include events,conferences and meetings on all subjectsrelated to astronomy: guided star-watchingtours for beginners, scientific lectures forexperts and various events for children andyoung people including musical performancesand plays. Open Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Fullprice ticket €3. www.comune.milano.it. CorsoVenezia, 57. T: 02 88463340. M1 Palestro. Map H3VOLANDIA – A flight park and museum, situatednext to the International Malpensa airport.The exhibition space is divided into five areasdocumenting the conquest of the sky, fromhot-air ballooning right up to twentiethcentury inventions. Located on the borderbetween Milan and Varese, known as “thewinged province” due to its longstandingassociation with the aeronautical industry,the museum includes a play area for children,a store and a café. Full ticket, 8 euros, freeadmission for children under the age of 3.Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. Via per Tornavento,15 Somma Lombardo(VA), T: 0331 230642.Off Map.www.wheretraveler.com 59

Essentials5 METROPOLITANA MILANESE - MILAN METRORHOLEGENDAMetropolitana Linea 1Underground Line 1Metropolitana Linea 2Underground Line 2Metropolitana Linea 3Underground Line 3Passante Ferroviario MilaneseUrban RailwayMetro Automatico per OspedaleAutomatic train to Hospitalwww.atm-mi.itRHO FieramilanoPeroMolino DorinoS. LeonardoBonolaUruguayLampugnanoQT8LottoAmendolaBuonarrotiCertosaVillapizzoneWagnerDe AngeliGambaraBande NerePrimaticcioInganniBisceglieQuartoOggiaroDomodossolaS. CristoforoPaganoBovisaConciliazioneBruzzanoAfforiLancettiCentrale FSRepubblicaLanzaTuratiMontenapoleoneCadorna Cairoli CordusioS. AmbrogioS. AgostinoP.ta Genova FSRomoloFamagostaGaribaldi FSAbbiategrassoChiesa RossaZaraSondrioMaciachiniMoscovaGioiaGrecoCaiazzoMissoriCrocettaMonzaSesto 1º Maggio FSSesto Rondo’Sesto MarelliVilla San Cologno NordGiovanniPrecotto Cologno CentroCologno SudGorlaTurroPortaRomana FSBrentaCorvettoRoveretoPasteurLoretoLimaP.ta VeneziaPalestroSan BabilaDuomoP.taRomanaPiolaP.taLodi TibbOspedale S.RaffaeleDateoViittoriaPorto diMareCascina GobbaCrescenzagoCimianoUdineLambrate FSRogoredoGessateSegrateCascinaAntoniettaGorgonzolaVilla PompeaBusseroCassina de’PecchiVilla FioritaCernusco S.N.Cascina BurronaVimodroneTreviglioPioltelloS. DonateMILAN IN75 MINUTESGetting AroundIn addition to the metro (underground)system, cited in the listings, Milan is alsocovered by numerous tram and bus routes.For more information regarding Milan’spublic transport system: ATM - AziendaTrasporti Milanesi – Local Public TransportCompany - Mon-Sun 7.30am-7.30pm.www.atm-mi.it. T: 800 808181.Ordinary ticket (1 €)Valid for 75 minutes. Can be used onbuses, trams or the metro (one trip only).Day ticket (3 €)Valid 24h. Bus, tram and metro with no limits.Two-day ticket (5 €)Valid 48h. Bus, tram and metro no limits.Where to buy your ticket:from metro stations, newstands, tobacconists(shops displaying a large T sign), barsdisplaying the green and orange ATM stickerin the window or automatic machines locatedin every metro station.Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2011. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the informationin this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of thismap and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CMCartographics.For more detailed listings, please seewww.wheretraveler.comEmergency• CARABINIERI T: 112.• AMBULANCE T: 118.• CITY POLICE T: 02 77271.• MEDICAL SERVICES T: 02 34567.• OPEN PHARMACIES T: 800 801185.• PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, viaFatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 0262261.• LOST AND FOUND on ATM Vehicles City of Milan.Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900.Tourist informationINFO SERVICE COMUNE DI MILANO – IAT Ufficioinformazioni turistiche. M1, M3 Duomo. Mon-Sat8.45am-1pm; 2pm-6pm; Sun 9am-1pm; 2pm-5pm.www.turismo.comune.milano.it. Piazza Duomo19/a. T: 02 77404343. Map F5. M1, M3 Duomo.INFO SERVICE PROVINCIA DI MILANO – IATUfficio informazioni turistiche. Mon-Sun9am-1pm; 2pm-5pm. www.provincia.milano.it.Stazione Centrale FS. T: 02 77404318. Map H1. M2Centrale FS.Public TransportATM - AZIENDA TRASPORTI MILANESI - Mon-Sun7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm-mi.it. Tel. 800 808181RADIOBUS - On-call minibuses pick up fromdesignated stops and drive passengers directlyto their door. They are available from 8pmto 2am and must be booked in advance.Reservations can be made up to threedays in advance or by 6pm on the night on02.48.03.48.03 (call 0248034800 for late pickups).Ticket: 3 € (buy it on the bus).TaxiHow to catch a taxi in Milan. From the hotel: call theconcierge. While out and about in the city, call fora taxi on:Autoradiotaxi 02 85.85Taxi Blu 02 40.40Yellow Taxi 02 69.69Taxi airport fees:From or to Malpensa: € 85From or to Linate: € 60From or to Orio al Serio: € 100/110TrainsFERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia RailwayCompany - General info T: 892021.www.trenitalia.comFERROVIE NORD MILANO - Milano Nord Railway- General info T: 199 15 152. Mon-Sun 7am-10pm.www.ferrovienord.itAirportsMALPENSA - (45 km from the centre of Milan- A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 0274852200 (call center). www.sea-aeroportimilano.itLost&Found T: 02 232323.Malpensa Express T: 199 151152. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.malpensaexpress.it. Customer Care c/oStazione Milano Cadorna FNM. Mon-Fri 7am-8pm;Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-4pm / Departures fromMalpensa to Cadorna FNM 26’ and 56’ after thehour (5.26am-11.56pm) / Departures from CadornaFNM 30’ and 00’ after the hour (5.30am-11pm).Malpensa Shuttle T: 0331 258411. www.malpensashuttle.it. Departures from Terminal 1exit 5 to Stazione Centrale FS, every 20 minutes(6.20am-10pm) / from Stazione Centrale FS toTerminal 1, every 20 minutes (5.20am-9pm).Malpensa bus Express www.autostradale.it.Departures from Terminal 1 exit 6 to StazioneCentrale FS every 20 minutes (6.50am-10.10pm)- Departures from Stazione Centrale FS to Terminal1 exit 6 every 20 minutes (6.50am-10.10pm).LINATE - (7 km from the centre of Milan). Flightinformation 24h-24h T: 02 74852200 (call center).www.sea-aeroportimilano.itLost luggage T: 02 58581285Bus 73 Departures from Milano-piazza San Babilato Linate, every 10 minutes (5.35am-0.35am).Departures from Linate-Floor Arrival to MilanopiazzaSan Babila, every 10 minutes (6.05am-0.55am)ORIO AL SERIO - (45 km from the centre of Milan– A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it.Lost luggage T: 035 326297/352.Lost&Found T: 035 326297. Mon-Sun. 8am-10pmLeft luggage arrivals area T: 035 318472. Mon-Sun8am-0pm.Orio Shuttle - Airpulmann from Aeroporto ParkingBus to Stazione Centrale FS Mon-Fri every 30minutes (6am-10.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30 minutes(8.15am-7.15pm) / from Stazione Centrale toAeroporto Orio Mon-Fri every 30 minutes (5.45am-11.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30 minutes (5.45am-7.15pm)TELEPHONE CHECK IN AND CALL CENTERAeroflot - T: 02 66986985 (call center)Alitalia - T: 06 2222 (call center)Air France - T: 848 884466 (call center)Airone - T: 199 207080 (call center from 5am to 11pm)British Airways - T: 199 712266 (call center)Delta Airlines - T: 848 780.376 (call center)SUBSCRIBE TO WHEREMILAN NEWSLETTER at www.wheremilan.com: your free update on Milan!60 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

Emitares - T: 06 54220213 (call center)Iberia - T: 848 826236 (call center)Japan Airlines - T: 848 874700 (call center)KLM - T: 199 414199 (call center)Lufthansa - T: 199 400555 (call center)Swiss Airlines - T: 848 868120 (call center)US Airways - T: 848 813177 (call center)Pharmacy 24h-24hStazione Centrale - Piazza Duca D’Aosta. T: 02 6690735NIGHT PHARMACYSanta Teresa - Corso Magenta, 96. T: 02 48006772Canonica - Via Canonica, 32. T: 02 33609233Formaggia - C.so Buenos Aires, 4. T: 02 29513320Fatebenefratelli - Piazza Principessa Clotilde, 1T: 02 6555242Florists 7 Days a WeekMONCEAU FLEURS – www.monceaufleurs.it. VialeBianca Maria corner of Via Raiberti. T: 02 76021753 andPiazza Bonomelli, 9. T: 02 534638.Urgent DeliveryMailBoxes Etc. – www.mbe.it. Via Moscova, 13.T: 02 29002245.City Ex - www.cityex.it. T: 02 5064.Sinergie Express - www.ponymilano.it.T: 02 537373.Sds - www.sdsmilano.it. T: 02 66714827.RentalsCAR RENTALAvis: www.avisautonoleggio.it. T: 199 100133.Maggiore: www.maggiore.it. T: 199 151120.Hertz: www.hertz.it. T: 199 112211.MOPED RENTALVipernolo: www.vipernolo.com.Via Populonia 6/8. T: 02 66805738.GuidaMiAre you a regular visitor to Milan? GuidaMI is the carsharing system that offers you the possibilityof travelling around Milan in a car even if you don’t own one (even in limited traffic areas).You just need to book your car of choice and pick it up from one of the over 50 parking areasavailable, 7 days a week, 24 hours a day. The fee is either per hour or per kilometre: three hoursof shopping using a Fiat 500 will cost you about 10 euros.1. RegisterTo access the service, you need toregister and pay a subscription fee of120 euros. Registration requirementsinclude a valid ID card, a Visa orMastercard credit car, an EU driver’slicence (Russia excluded) or aninternational driver’s licence.You can register:online at www.atm-mi.itby telephone. Call toll-free(from Italy) on 800. 80.81.81in person at the Duomo ATM PointBICYCLE RENTALBikeMi: www.bikemi.com. Bike Sharing serviceof the Milan Municipality available from 250stations dotted around the town offering 5000bikes, which can be used for max. 2 hours.Price: first 30 minutes free of charge, then €0.50every 30 minutes. Subscriptions: daily €2.50/weekly €6.50/annual €36. Credit Cards only.City ToursCITY TOUR - (3.5 h) daily morning and afternoon,entrance to Cenacolo (Last Supper), Museodella Scala, Duomo, Castello Sforzesco included.T: 02 48036999. Price: € 60.CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO - (24 hours HOP ONHOP OFF) Foro Bonaparte 76. T: 02 867131. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it. Departure: PiazzaCastello. Map E4. M1 Cairoli. Languages spoken:Italian, English, French, Spanish, German,Chinese, Japanese, Russian. On board ticketpurchased. Ad: €20; Ch: €10Private Guided ToursSOPHISTICATED ITALY - www.sophisticateditaly.com. Sophisticated Italy designs private toursincluding personal shopping to affluenttravelers throughout Italy. Via L.B. Alberti, 5.T: 02 36521621. Map B1.InterpretersSTUDIO BERNITZ - careybernitz@virgilio.it.T: 02 26415319/3356348682LANGUAGE CONSULTING: www.lcc.it. ViaLanzone, 6. T: 02 8057846/864156.Internet PointGuidaMi in 4 stepsMONDADORI MULTICENTER: Piazza Duomo, 1.T: 02 454411. • Via Marghera, 28. T: 02 480471.FNAC: via Torino corner of Via della Palla.T: 02 869541.2. BookYou can book the car of your choiceeither on the website or through ourcall center, two to four months beforeyou need it. From Milan, you can alsobook the carsharing system for use inother Italian cities.3. Hop inAfter using your Smart Card toopen the car, you will find the keysin the glove compartment. The carcomputer will assist you duringyour journey.4. DriveAn operator is available 24 hoursa day. When you’ve finished usingthe car, just return it to the placewhere you picked it up.Milano AmaMi Cardis a multifunctional cardthat offers anadvantageous packageof public services, citytravel, tourism,culture and finance.www.tourism.milan.itto find out more aboutdiscounts, conventions,selected museums and outletsPrice: €2548 hour validityWHERE TO PURCHASE IT• ATM Point Duomo • ATM PointCadorna • ATM Point Porta Garibaldi• Brera Picture Gallery • Museum ofScience and Technology “LeonardoDa Vinci” • Castello Sforzesco • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Piazza Diaz, cornerof Via Marconi • Intesa SanpaoloBranch Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 2 • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Via Verdi 8 • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Piazza Cordusio, 4(ang. Via Mercanti) • Intesa SanpaoloBranch Via Mercato, 5 • IntesaSanpaolo Branch Rho-Pero (FieraMilano)PUBLIC TRANSPORTMilano AmaMi Card allows you totravel for 48 hours on the entireATM urban transport network -Metropolitana (subway), tram, busand trolleybus - up to the Rho-Fiera MM station. State Railways,Ferrovie Nord Milano (Northernline) trains lines and the PassanteFerroviario are not included in theCard’s offer.MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONSMilano AmaMi Card opensthe doors to 17 of the mostprestigious museums in the cityfor the duration of 48 hours (fromthe time of the first entrance).For exhibitions, presenting yourCard at the ticket offices, you willreceive a discount on the ticketentrance price at Palazzo Reale,Ambrosiana, Triennale and others.www.wheretraveler.com 61

1234567V.le L. ScarampoV.le EginardoV.le del LavoroV. Guglielmo Silva V. B. ColleoniV. VolpedoV. Mosè BianchiV. DomenichinoV. G. PreviatiV. F. Faruffini16V. P. UccelloV. Cittàdel MessicoV. MadruzzoV. F. AlbaniV. S. Del PiomboV. Monte BiancoV.le Ergisto BezziV. Carlo RavizzaV. A. MarioP.zaDe AngeliDe AngeliV. Giuseppe FruaV. dei GracchiTripoliV. BerengarioP.za G.AmendolaA B CFauchéSpazio Acqua1MILANOMILANPOPOUT MAP15 ILPORTELLOV. CorreggioV. A. SpinolaV. MargheraV. AlcuinoV. Giovanni da Procida17VelodromoVigorelli14 P.le CarloMagno18L.go20 Domodossola132119 Fiera12 Milano 122 23 211PalazzodelloP.le3Sport10Italia 49Under Construction(2007 – 2014) 58 7 6L.go V. SenofonteAfricaV.le EzioV. Monte RosaV. V. ColonnaV. Michelangelo BuonarrotiV.le DuilioV.le d.ComeméricoV.le dell’IndustriaV.le BelisarioV. GiottoV. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio TizianoV. L. SaccoV. SardegnaV. GattamelataWhere ® MilanSanSiroP.leArduinoInformationPlace of InterestMuseumTheatreShoppingPost OfficePoliceONLY ATPREMIEREHOTELSAmendolaFiera SacraFamigliaV. G. del MainoV. P. CavalcabòV. RoncagliaV. Giorgio WashingtonV.MonferratoV. ElbaV. S. CabotoV. G. BoniV. L. B. AlbertiV. AronaCasa P.zaVerdi BuonarrotiBuonarrotiP.zaTeatro PiemonteNazionaleP.za SiciliaP.zaIrnerioLEGENDP.le GiulioCesareP.zaWagnerWagnerMarketChurchS. Pietroin SalaViewpointTrain StationP.zaPoMetro StationCycle PathSwimming PoolParkingCorso Sempione Corso SempioneV.le S. BoezioV.le CassiodoroV. della RobbiaV. Pier CapponiV. D. CimarosaV. San EusebioV. BiondiV. PolibioV. AlessandriV.BiondiV. CorleoneV. PanziniV. Giuseppe DezzaP.zaVesuvioV. FauchéV. P. d. FrancescaV. Francesco FerruccioV. MussiV. Domodossola V. PolizianoV. RossettiCorso VercelliV. Paolo GiovioV. VergaV. StromboliV. CaliforniaV. TortonaV. Ippolito NievoV. Leone XIIIV. G. PallavicinoV. Egadi V. LipariV. Moisé LoriaV. StendhalP.za VIFebbraioP.zaBazziV. F. 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AleardiV. E. AlemagnaV. Luigi NonoV. Paolo Sarpi V. Paolo SarpiTorreBrancaV. G. LeopardiV. de TogniV. OlonaV. AribertoV. RosminiV. Luigi CanonicaV. A. BertaniV. Giosuè CarducciV. E. De AmicisV.le GoriziaV. SimonettaV. G. B. NiccoliniV. d’OggionoV.le ElveziaV.le MaltaV.le Gabriele d’AnnunzioCorso C.Colombo Corso GenovaV. VigevanoV. MessinaV. CarroccioV. BoccaccioV. AusonioRipa di Porta TicineseStrada Alzaia Naviglio GrandeV. MessinaS. AmbrogioMuseo Nazionaledella Scienzae della TecnicaP.zaS. Agostino S. AgostinoTeatroLiberoStazionePta. GénovaL.go C.GaddaV. G. GiustiV.le W. GoetheV. TerraggioV. S. VincenzoV. LanzoneV. Cesare Sesto V. G. FerrariP.taGenova FSNaviglio GrandeDP.zaCoriolanoL.go L.MediciMon.NapoleoneIIITriennale -Palazzodell’ArteV. S. CalogeroP.leCantoreDarsenaCimiteroMonumentaleP.za S. S.TrinitàParcoSempioneV.le GadioP.za S.AmbrogioFiera diSenigalliaForo BuonaparteCorso MagentaV. Conca del NaviglioV.le GoriziaNav.PaveseP.leCimiteroMonumentaleV. S. ValeriaV. Card.A. SforzaV. CeresioV.le MontelloV. CorrentiV. ArenaV. BramanteV. P. CapuccioBasilica diS. AmbrogioUniversitàCattolicadel Sacro CuoreS. Bernardinoalle MonacheP.zaResistenzaPartigianaArenaCivicaV. CollodiAnfiteatroRomanoCorso di Porta TicineseCorso S.GottardoV. Carlo FariniBastioni diPorta VoltaV. LegnanoV.le GadioV. S.G.sul MuroV. S. M.PortaV.le CrispiV. Alessandro VoltaV. MoscovaV. Sant’OrsolaPta.TicineseP.le XXIVMaggioP.zaBaiamontiP.le LegaLombardaAcquarioCivicoMuseod’Arte Anticae PinacotecaCastelloSforzescoP.zaStazioneTommaseoCadornaPaganoP.leMalpensa CadornaExpress Cadorna FNMP.za P.zaConciliazione GiovineTriennaleConciliazione Italia CenacoloPORTAVincianoMAGENTAS. NicolaoS. MariaP.le F.della Grazie L.go P.PalazzoL.go Baraccad’Ancona LittaSettimoPalazzoSeveroMuseo Teatrale dellealla Scala StellineCONCHETTABULLONAP.zaP.za dei SempioneVolontari ArcoCorpus dellaDomini PaceS. Vittoreal CorpoVic.S. Maria Lavandaial NaviglioPORTAVOLTAP.za CastelloMuseoArcheologicoAntica Pta.TicineseMuseoDiocesanoNAVIGLIA BC D EEForo BuonaparteV. DanteV. MeravigliV. TorinoCorso GaribaldiV. Molino delle ArmiV.le G. GaleazzoV.le Col di LanaV. Guglielmo PepV. Maurizio QuadrioV. MaroncelliV.le PasubioLanzaBreraV. S. M.FulcorinaV. PontaccioV. MercatoL.goCairoliCairoliP.zaMentanaTeatroStrehlerL.goCarrobbioBasilicaS. LorenzoMaggioreV. S. MaurilloParco delleBasilicheV. Santa CroceV. SambucoS. Antonioda PádovaP.leAprPoGaribaPORTATENAGLIAP.zaVetraS. MaIncoroL.go MoscLa FoppaV. PalermoV. SV. OV.V. CornagV. DiscipliniV. OlmettoCorso GaribaldiFondazioneMuseo L.MinguzziL.gTreBasilica di SanSimplicianoV. F. ChiariV.PiattiV. BrolettoTeatroBuratBRERAV. dell’V. CrocefissoV. C. Del FantV. San LucaSS. Maria deCarmineallP.zaBorsa CordusioBibliotecaPinacotecaAmbrosianaBasilica S. Eustorgioe Cappella PortinariCopyright Compass Maps Ltd. Ltd. (UK). (UK). © 2011. © 2003. All rights Revised reserved. 2008. All Whilst rights every reserved. care has Whilst been every taken care to check has been the accuracy taken to of check the information the accuracy in of this the guide, information the publishers in this cannot guide, accept the publishers responsibility cannot for accept errors responsibility or omissions or for the errors consequences or omissions thereof. or the No consequences part of this map thereof. and guide No part may of be this reproduced map andS.MP.le diLodov

V. MazzinideltoeolferinoCorso ComoreficiTorinogiaV. P. BorsieriV. De CristoforisV. SolferinoCorso Italia Corso ItaliaV.le Monte GrappaV. San MarcoBastioni di Porta NuovaV. G. VerdiV.le BlignyV. MoscovaCorso Porta NuovaV. FatebenefratelliV. S.MargheritaV. ConfalonieriV. De CastilliaStazionePorta GaribaldiP.taGaribaldi FSXXVTeatroile SmeraldortaldirianataovaOrsoeV.le L. SturzoV. CastelfidardoChiesa AnglicanaovesV. MontebelloP.za. MarcoPinacotecadi Breral Museo delRisorgimentoMontenapoleoneV. BreraP.zaMissoriissoriV. AlbricciCorso di Porta RomanaP.za S.EufemiaV. G. MercalliV. San MartinoV. Santa SofiaV. Melchiorre GioiaOspedaleFatebenefratelliV. AnnunciataV. Alessandro ManzoniV. Bianca di SavoiaV. S. CalimeroV.le Monte SantoV. MontenapoleoneV. BigliV. LargaV. SassettiGioiaV. AppianiV. F. TuratiStudio Museo TuratiTreccaniS. Marco QuesturaCordusio Emanuele IIDuomo DuomoP.za delDuomoPalazzoRealeL.go DeBenedettiPta.NuovaTeatroa Scala P.za L.godella ScalaMattioliPal. MarinoMunicipioGalleriaVittorioSatiroFP.zaErculeaS. PaoloConversoP.zaDiazTorreVelascaUniversitàS. Naz.MaggioreS. Maria dellaVisitazioneP.za S.NazaroV. GalileiV. SenatoCorso MatteottiCorso V. Emanuele IIV. VerziereP.za S.StefanoV. F. d. PerdonoV. Vignoni V. QuadronnoV. C. CrivelliV. PirelliPORTANUOVASocietà per leBelle Arti edEsposizionePermanenteS. AngeloV. della SpigaV. Francesco SforzaCorso Porta VigentinaV.le BlignyV. Daniele ManinV. S. AndreaS. BabilaV. d. SignoraV.CardanoV. Gen. G. FaraRepubblicaP.za dellaRepubblicaP.zaCavourV. PalestroV. DuriniCorso EuropaV. CervaV. GuastallaGiardinodellaGuastallaOspedaleMaggioredi Milano -PoliclinicoCrocettaV. Fabio FilziPalazzodel SenatoCorso VeneziaV. Visconti di ModroneV. della CommendaV. GalvaniP.za S.Gioachino RepubblicaAmericanContourellaP.za S.BabilaTeatroCarcanoV.le TunisiaV. S.DamianoV. RonchettiCorso di Porta RomanaP.zaGrattacielo Duca d’AostaPirelliV.le Vittorio VenetoBastioni di Porta VeneziaV. MarinaV. BattistiV. Vittor PisaniV. CasatiCorso MonforteCorso Porta VittoriaPalazzodiGiustiziaV. FregugliaV. San BarnabaV. A. LamarmoraV. San GregorioV. TencaV. Lazzaretto V. SettembriniCorso VeneziaV. MozartV. TorrianiV. CastaldiV. Pietro MascagniV.le Emilio CaldaraV.le Regina MargheritaV.le Monte NeroV. VitruvioV. SettalaV. VivaioV. LeccoV. CappucciniV. ConservatorioV.PassioneV. Filippo CorridoniV. M. FantiV. OrtiV.le SabotinoP.za IVNovembreGiardiniPubbliciCivico PlanetarioUlrico HoepliMuseo diStoriaNaturaleGalleriad’ArteModernaPalestroV. Manara V. della PaceV. CurtatoneCentraleFSPrefettura(PalazzoIsimbardi)S. Mariapresso S. CelsoP.taSanti Pietro Romanae Paolodei Pellegrini PortaRomanaPta. L.go I. V.le Beatrice d’Este Pta. V.le A. Filippetti P.leica D'AragonaVigentinaMusei di MedagliePorta Romana d’OroGSinagogaS. Mariadella PaceV. PodgoraStazioneCentraleSpazioOberdanV.le L. MajnoV.le Bianca MariaV. FontanaV. MacchiV. BoscovichV. TadinoPortaVeneziaV. E. BesanaCorso Buenos AiresV.le PiaveV.le Monte NeroV.le PremudaV.le LazioV. P. LombardoV. S. LuttuadoV. L. MuratoriV. AportiPortaVeneziaPta.VeneziaP.leOberdan 3P.zaDuseRotondadellaBesanaP.zaLuigidi SavoiaS. CamilloS. Mariadella PassionePORTAROMANAF G HS. ConsiglioGregorioStazioneLambrateMuseo BeniCulturaliCappucciniP.ledel TricoloreConserv. diMusica G. VerdiPta.Vittoriawithout guide may the be permission reproduced of the without publishers. the permission This map is of originally the publishers. designed This and map produced is originally by CM designed Cartographics. and produced by CM Cartographics.HP.zaCinqueGiornateFondazionePradaV. A. Maffei12456TeatroFranco 7Parenti6593LA5 STARS SUPERIORBulgari Hotels & Resorts Milano– Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4Four Seasons Hotel Milano – Via Gesù, 8 • G4Grand Hotel et de Milan – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4Park Hyatt Milan – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F5Seven Stars Galleria – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5The Westin Palace – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2Town House 8 – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F55 STARSBoscolo Exedra Milano – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4Carlton Hotel Baglioni Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4Hotel Meliá Milano – Via Masaccio, 19 • OFF MAPHotel Pierre Milano – Via De Amicis, 32 • D6The Gray Milano – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F54 STARS SUPERIORDe la ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • OFF MAPEnterprise Hotel – Corso Sempione, 91 • B1Grand Visconti Palace Milano– Viale Isonzo, 14 • OFF MAP4 STARSAcca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAPADI Hotel Poliziano Fiera – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • C1Admiral Hotel – Via Domodossola, 16 • B2Antares Hotel Accademia Milano– Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAPAntares Hotel Concorde Milano– Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Contessa Jolanda Residence– Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Executive– Viale Don L. Sturzo, 45 • F1AtaHotel Expo Fiera – Via G. Keplero, 12 • OFF MAPAtaHotel Fiera Milano – Viale S. Boezio, 20 • B2AtaHotel Quark – Via Lampedusa, 11/A • OFF MAPAtaHotel The Big – Via C. de Cristoforis, 6/8 • F2Baviera Mokinba Hotel Milano– Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G2Best Western Astoria Hotel Milano– Viale Murillo, 9 • OFF MAPBest Western Hotel Felice Casati– Via F. Casati, 18 • H2Best Western Hotel Galles– Piazza Lima, 2 • OFF MAPBest Western Hotel Major– Viale Isonzo, 2 • OFF MAPBest Western Milton – Via E. Butti, 9 • OFF MAPCamperio House Suite & Apartments– Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4Capitol World Class Hotel Milano– Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • B5Carlyle Brera Hotel – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3Corte del Naviglio– Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAPCorvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAPCrivi’s Hotel Milano – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G7Crowne Plaza Hotels & Resorts– Via Melchiorre Gioia, 73 • OFF MAPDouble tree by Hilton Milan– Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAPFour Points by Sheraton Milan Center– Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1Grand Hotel Plaza Milan – Piazza A. Diaz, 3 • F5Green House Hotel Residence– Viale Famagosta, 50 • OFF MAPHilton Milan Hotel – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1Hotel Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G5Hotel Ariosto – Viale L. Ariosto, 22 • C4Hotel Atlantic Milano – Via N. Torriani, 24 • H1Hotel Auriga Milano – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • H1Hotel Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • H2Hotel Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H1Hotel Brunelleschi Milano – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5Hotel Cavour Milano – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • G3Hotel Colombia Milano – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • H1Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F6Milan MapHotel del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • OFF MAPHotel Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G5Hotel Hermitage Milano – Via Messina, 10 • D2Hotel King Milano – Corso Magenta, 19 • E5Hotel Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F6Hotel Manin – Via D. Manin, 7 • G3Hotel Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4Hotel Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • H1Hotel Michelangelo Milano– Via D. Scarlatti, 33 • H1Hotel Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • H1Hotel Mirage Milano– Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAPHotel Montebianco Mokinba– Via Monterosa, 90 • OFF MAPHotel Mozart Milano– Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • C1Hotel Mythos Milano – Via C. Tenca, 21 • H2Hotel Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • B1Hotel Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAPHotel Residence Romana– Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6Hotel Sanpi Milano – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • H2Hotel Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5Hotel St. George Milano – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H2International Residence– Via G. Modena, 4 • OFF MAPLeonardo da Vinci Hotel– Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAPMadison Hotel – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • OFF MAPMaison Moschino – Viale Monte Grappa, 12/b • F2Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3Mihotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAPMilan Marriott Hotel – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via La Spezia, 25 • OFF MAPMini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • A1Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • B4Novotel Milano Linate– Via Mecenate, 121 • OFF MAPRadisson Blu Hotel– Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAPRegency Hotel Milano– Via G. Arimondi, 12 • OFF MAPResidence Bianca Croce– Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAPResidence Desenzano Milano– Via Desenzano, 12 • OFF MAPRoyal Garden Hotel– Via G. Di Vittorio - ASSAGO • OFF MAPSheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport Hotel– Malpensa Terminal 1 - SS. 336 • OFF MAPSilver Hotel – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAPStarhotels Anderson– Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • OFF MAPStarhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • G5Starhotels Tourist – Viale F. Testi, 300 • OFF MAPStraf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F5The Hub Hotel – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAPTown House 12 – Piazza Gerusalemme, 12 • C1Town House 31 – Via C. Goldoni, 31 • OFF MAPTown House 33 – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • OFF MAPUNA Maison Milano – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5UNA Hotel Century – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G1UNA Hotel Cusani – Via Cusani, 13 • E4UNA Hotel Malpensa– Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAPUNA Hotel Mediterraneo– Via G.B. Muratori, 14 • H7UNA Hotel Scandinavia – Via Fauché, 15 • C1UNA Hotel Tocq – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F1WattTredici Hotel – Via G. Watt, 13 • OFF MAPWindsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2BED&BREAKFASTBed&Breakfast Trovailtempo – Via Novara, 216• OFF MAP

things we love about MilanThe newly restored frescoes, recently returnedto the Municipality of Milan, found in the 16thcentury church of San Maurizio al MonasteroMaggiore, a real jewel located in Corso Magenta15. The brightly coloured rectory, chapels andvaults will literally take your breath away. Tue-Sat9.30am-5.30pm.Try a “panzerotto” at Luini’s, a pocket ofpizza crust stuffed with all sorts of ingredients,including the basic mozzarella cheese andtomatoes. A Milanese institution since 1940, just astone’s throw from the Duomo and la Rinascente.You will recognize it by the crowds queuing upon the pavement! Never fear, service is quick andefficient and the wait is well worth it. Luini will beclosed on 13, 25 and 26 December and from 29to 2 January.Enjoy a view of the snow-covered city fromthe top of the Torre Branca, a metallic structuremeasuring 108 metres, designed by the famousarchitect Giò Ponti.Discover Roman relics in Milan: the Romebuilt“Mediolanum” still hides several signs ofits history. For your information, the first twoperpendicular roads running through the cityoriginally ran from today’s Porta Ticinese rightup to Piazza della Scala (the “cardo” – axial street)and from Porta Romana to Corso Magenta (the“decumanus”) meeting at the site on which thePinacoteca Ambrosiana stands today (100 metresfrom Piazza del Duomo).Strolling among the myriad of stallsbetween via Dante and the Loggia deiMercanti. This, delicately lit, medieval portico,is one of the most enchanting spots in thecity.Taste the simple pleasure of a paper conefilled with “caldarroste”, chestnuts roastedwhile you wait, measured out with a metalscoop. Formerly considered the food of thepoor, though slightly more costly today, theystill remain a treat well worth trying. TheDuomo area is filled with carts selling thesefabulous Christmas delicacies.Discover the tradition of “The Magi” atthe magnificent Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio(Porta Ticinese area, map E7). According tobiblical references, three wise men, withprophetic powers, were guided by a star tovisit the infant Jesus. The remains of the Magi,discovered in Jerusalem and handed downuntil they reached the bishop Eustorgio, arethought to be preserved in Milan! Accordingto the Christian calendar, 6 January is aholiday, celebrating their visit.4Visit La Scala without paying for yourticket. If you visit the adjacent museum(5 euros, www.teatroallascala.org) you canexperience the emotion of looking at thestage from a box – offering the best view overthe entire theatre – and touring backstage.Go skateboarding (or simply look at theantics of others) at the Skatepark in ParcoLambro, a green area extending over almostone million square metres just behind thecity’s tangenziale est, which, this year, is alsocelebrating its 75th birthday.To see the complete list of 75 thingswe love about Milan, go towww.wheretraveler.com/milanLook for traces of famous Milanese publicfigures, possibly unknown to foreigners butdearly loved by the city of Milan. One suchexample is Indro Montanelli, a pillar of Italianjournalism. After his death in 2001, the Gardensin Porta Venezia, where he loved to sit and think,were named after him.136TORRE BRANCA: PHOTO BY LANOCHE. ROMAN RELICS: PHOTO BY SOFIA CANNARA MALAN64 WHERE MILAN I JANUARY 2011

5 - Star BeautyA journey through style and elegance made in Italy at Spiga 8 Spa.Located right in the heart of Milan, the Spa is the ideal destinationfor those who love style and highly personalized services. To relax,enjoy the very latest treatments for mind and body in this trueurban oasis: sauna, Turkish bath, experience showers, fitness equipmentand an elegant lounge area will make your stay unforgettable.Via della Spiga 8, Milan - Italyph: +39 02 45473111 - Email: spa.carltonmilano@baglionihotels.comwww.baglionihotels.com