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Plaza Independencia, Montevideo<br />
! Montevideo<br />
Nearly half of Uruguay’s 3.7<br />
million citizens live in the capital<br />
of Montevideo. Legendary for<br />
their hospitality and civic pride,<br />
they congregate at all hours in<br />
Plaza Independencia (see p98)<br />
and tuck into the local grill<br />
specialty, chivito (a thin steak<br />
sandwich). Ciudad Vieja mirrors<br />
<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ San Telmo in its<br />
reinvention as a nightlife and<br />
dining neighborhood. Unlike its<br />
massive River Plate neighbor,<br />
Montevideo feels like a coastal<br />
city with its municipal beaches<br />
and paseos overlooking the deep<br />
blue waters. d Map B4<br />
Colonia del Sacramento<br />
@ Fifty minutes from Puerto<br />
Madero on Buquebus’ fastest<br />
vessels (see p25), Colonia is an<br />
18th-century town on a strategic<br />
outcrop of Uruguayan soil. Some<br />
choose to spend the night in one<br />
of its charming posadas or to<br />
rent scooters to explore<br />
surrounding beaches. What everyone<br />
invariably does is soak up<br />
the colonial atmosphere at a sidewalk<br />
café (see pp24–5).<br />
# Mar del Plata<br />
A virtual 1:20 scale model of<br />
<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>, Mar del Plata is<br />
located 5 hours from la Capital.<br />
Its cosmopolitan attractions and<br />
coastal high-rises are about<br />
excitement, not relaxation. Playa<br />
Bristol, the principal beach,<br />
teems with families under<br />
umbrellas and vendors hawking<br />
everything from popcorn to<br />
massages. Seafood, brought in<br />
by emblematic fleets of yellowhulled<br />
fishing boats, features<br />
prominently on menus. d Map B6<br />
$ Tandil<br />
With the horizon-flat Pampa<br />
commencing just beyond <strong>Buenos</strong><br />
<strong>Aires</strong> and extending for hundreds<br />
of miles, Tandil’s rugged 1,640 ft<br />
(500 m) hills prove irresistible for<br />
porteños without time or pesos<br />
for Patagonia. El Centinela, a<br />
23-ft (7-m) high rock balancing<br />
atop a hill, can be reached by a<br />
ski chairlift. In the town, plazaside<br />
bars and delicatessens<br />
stocking locally produced jams,<br />
cheeses, and dry sausages<br />
provide ample reward for the<br />
returning day hikers. d Map A5<br />
Beyond <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong> 95