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Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro<br />

82<br />

Lunch – Microcentro Style<br />

For people who take a sandwich<br />

back to the computer, the<br />

lunchtime customs of<br />

Microcentro’s workers might<br />

inspire admiration and jealousy.<br />

Workers eat out at a restaurant or<br />

a shady patch of Plaza de Mayo.<br />

A coffee follows at Martínez or<br />

Havanna, and in good weather, a<br />

short nap under a palm. Two<br />

hours later, it is back to work.<br />

% Puente de la Mujer<br />

When opened in December<br />

2001, Spanish architect Sergio<br />

Calatrava’s Puente de la Mujer,<br />

so called for the streets in<br />

Puerto Madero bearing names of<br />

famous Argentinian women, was<br />

intended to herald the city’s<br />

entry into the 21st century. However,<br />

the government’s collapse<br />

stole the bridge’s headlines. Its<br />

striking form cannot be denied<br />

though, evoking a male dancer<br />

pressing into his female partner<br />

in clear, elegant homage to the<br />

tango. d Map G2 • Dique 3<br />

Reserva Ecológica ^ Costanera Sur<br />

A network of gravel paths wind<br />

through this stupendous ecological<br />

reserve. High marsh<br />

grasses, ombú trees, and<br />

The elegant Puente de la Mujer<br />

flowering bushes play host to<br />

seabirds, lizards, and songbirds.<br />

Shaded picnic areas, popular on<br />

warm days, afford unimpeded<br />

river views. Check the website<br />

for guided moonlit tours.<br />

d Map H1 • Avda. Tristán Achával<br />

Rodríguez 1550 • 4315-4129 • Open Apr–<br />

Oct: 8am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–<br />

7pm Tue–Sun • www.buenosaires.gov.ar<br />

Basilica Nuestra Señora<br />

& de la Merced<br />

This 1779 basilica set amid<br />

Microcentro’s bustle is the third<br />

Our Lady of Mercy on this site,<br />

the first dating back to 1604.<br />

Baroque and gilded, its altars are<br />

some of the city’s finest. Also<br />

notable is its façade’s politicized<br />

relief, depicting General Belgrano<br />

(1770–1820) offering victory<br />

trophies to the Señora, earned in<br />

battle against the Spanish. d Map<br />

F1 • Calle Reconquista 207 • Open<br />

8am–7pm daily<br />

* Museo Mitre<br />

Reopened in 2008 after<br />

restoration, the former residence<br />

of mid-19th-century president<br />

Bartólome Mitre presents a<br />

detailed view of how he lived<br />

the semi-retired life amidst<br />

Microcentro’s madness. His<br />

formidable library and reading

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