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Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro<br />
82<br />
Lunch – Microcentro Style<br />
For people who take a sandwich<br />
back to the computer, the<br />
lunchtime customs of<br />
Microcentro’s workers might<br />
inspire admiration and jealousy.<br />
Workers eat out at a restaurant or<br />
a shady patch of Plaza de Mayo.<br />
A coffee follows at Martínez or<br />
Havanna, and in good weather, a<br />
short nap under a palm. Two<br />
hours later, it is back to work.<br />
% Puente de la Mujer<br />
When opened in December<br />
2001, Spanish architect Sergio<br />
Calatrava’s Puente de la Mujer,<br />
so called for the streets in<br />
Puerto Madero bearing names of<br />
famous Argentinian women, was<br />
intended to herald the city’s<br />
entry into the 21st century. However,<br />
the government’s collapse<br />
stole the bridge’s headlines. Its<br />
striking form cannot be denied<br />
though, evoking a male dancer<br />
pressing into his female partner<br />
in clear, elegant homage to the<br />
tango. d Map G2 • Dique 3<br />
Reserva Ecológica ^ Costanera Sur<br />
A network of gravel paths wind<br />
through this stupendous ecological<br />
reserve. High marsh<br />
grasses, ombú trees, and<br />
The elegant Puente de la Mujer<br />
flowering bushes play host to<br />
seabirds, lizards, and songbirds.<br />
Shaded picnic areas, popular on<br />
warm days, afford unimpeded<br />
river views. Check the website<br />
for guided moonlit tours.<br />
d Map H1 • Avda. Tristán Achával<br />
Rodríguez 1550 • 4315-4129 • Open Apr–<br />
Oct: 8am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–<br />
7pm Tue–Sun • www.buenosaires.gov.ar<br />
Basilica Nuestra Señora<br />
& de la Merced<br />
This 1779 basilica set amid<br />
Microcentro’s bustle is the third<br />
Our Lady of Mercy on this site,<br />
the first dating back to 1604.<br />
Baroque and gilded, its altars are<br />
some of the city’s finest. Also<br />
notable is its façade’s politicized<br />
relief, depicting General Belgrano<br />
(1770–1820) offering victory<br />
trophies to the Señora, earned in<br />
battle against the Spanish. d Map<br />
F1 • Calle Reconquista 207 • Open<br />
8am–7pm daily<br />
* Museo Mitre<br />
Reopened in 2008 after<br />
restoration, the former residence<br />
of mid-19th-century president<br />
Bartólome Mitre presents a<br />
detailed view of how he lived<br />
the semi-retired life amidst<br />
Microcentro’s madness. His<br />
formidable library and reading