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Puente Transbordador<br />
of Río Riachuelo, the river that<br />
separates the <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong><br />
metropolis from Gran <strong>Buenos</strong><br />
<strong>Aires</strong>, the poverty and crimeridden<br />
belt that rings the city’s<br />
limits. Designed to transport<br />
pedestrians, cars, and trams<br />
across the river, it was replaced<br />
in 1939 by the Puente Nicolás<br />
Avellaneda, which now stands<br />
directly behind it. The bridge has<br />
appeared in numerous tangothemed<br />
films as an evocative<br />
icon. d Map H6 • Pedro de Mendoza,<br />
cnr. Almirante Brown<br />
) El Zanjón<br />
El Zanjón (meaning “creek”<br />
in Spanish) is a 19th-century mansion<br />
and archeological jewel. The<br />
house was built in the 1840s for<br />
the Miguens family and later<br />
converted into a conventillo<br />
(tenement house), but it is what<br />
lies beneath it that is special. The<br />
building’s foundations conceal<br />
the ruins of colonial houses,<br />
built by early settlers on the<br />
banks of two creeks that once<br />
converged at this spot. Tunnels<br />
built in the 19th century to cover<br />
the creeks for hygiene reasons<br />
run alongside the ruins. The site<br />
can be explored on stylized and<br />
fascinating tours. d Map F3<br />
• Defensa 755, San Telmo • 4361-3002<br />
• Tours (1 hr tour, reservations only):<br />
11am–2pm Mon–Fri, 1–6pm Sun<br />
• Adm • www.elzanjon.com.ar<br />
A Day in San Telmo<br />
and La Boca<br />
Morning<br />
Start your day with a<br />
strong coffee at San<br />
Telmo’s Bar Plaza<br />
Dorrego (see p77). Stroll<br />
north on Dorrego, wandering<br />
in and out of antiques<br />
stores and art galleries as<br />
you go, and stopping at<br />
the Mercado de San<br />
Telmo (see p19) to buy<br />
fresh fruit. Then explore<br />
the subterranean tunnels<br />
and ruins at El Zanjón<br />
before resurfacing to visit<br />
Casa Mínima (see p73).<br />
Head one block east and<br />
turn right. You are now on<br />
Balcarce. Soak in this<br />
street’s colonial façades as<br />
you wander back to Plaza<br />
Dorrego and then onto<br />
Parque Lezama, visiting<br />
the Iglesia Nuestra<br />
Señora de Belén (see<br />
p19) en route. At Parque<br />
Lezama, enjoy a steak<br />
lunch at Lezama (see<br />
p77), followed by a stroll<br />
of this lovely park.<br />
Afternoon<br />
Taking the No.29 bus from<br />
San Telmo, hop off at the<br />
end of the line in La Boca.<br />
Glance north and see the<br />
Puente Transbordador; a<br />
tango twirl south is El<br />
Caminito (see p73).<br />
Explore this open-air<br />
museum, drinking in the<br />
colorful houses and<br />
browsing the artists’<br />
wares before turning right<br />
on Garibaldi. Walk three<br />
blocks to La Bombonera<br />
(see p73). Take a stadium<br />
tour, stop by the Museo<br />
de la Pasión Boquense,<br />
and then head back the<br />
way you came. Back at the<br />
port, gorge on modern art<br />
at Fundación Proa (see<br />
p73) before returning to<br />
San Telmo. End your day<br />
with dinner and tango at<br />
Patagonia Sur (see p77).<br />
Avoid wandering around the foot of the Puente Transbordador –<br />
it is a crime hot spot.<br />
Around Town – San Telmo and La Boca 75
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