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Around Town – San Telmo and La Boca<br />
74<br />
Yellow Fever<br />
In 1871 a deadly yellow fever<br />
outbreak engulfed <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>,<br />
devastating San Telmo. Richer<br />
inhabitants moved north to the<br />
new districts of Recoleta and<br />
Barrio Norte, initiating a period of<br />
decay in the city’s south. The<br />
poverty gap between the city’s<br />
wealthy northern neighborhoods<br />
and their poorer southern<br />
counterparts was thus born.<br />
% Parque Lezama/Museo<br />
Histórico Nacional<br />
Popular with picnicking families,<br />
this landscaped park of tropical<br />
tipa trees, sweeping green<br />
spaces, and a broad viewing<br />
balcony, was once the private<br />
garden of the Lezama family.<br />
The Lezama home, a beautiful<br />
Italianate mansion, now houses<br />
the Museo Histórico Nacional –<br />
Argentina’s national history<br />
museum. Fascinating displays<br />
recount Argentina’s history from<br />
pre-Columbian times to the<br />
20th century, and include the<br />
founding of <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong> at this<br />
spot (see p32). d Map F4<br />
• Defensa 1600, San Telmo • 4307-1182<br />
• Open 11am–6pm daily • Adm<br />
Plaza Dorrego ^ At the heart of San Telmo,<br />
lovely Plaza Dorrego is<br />
one of the city’s<br />
oldest, most<br />
picturesque squares,<br />
ringed by old tango<br />
bars and cafés.<br />
Its origins go back<br />
to the 18th<br />
century, when<br />
gauchos came in<br />
by wagon to<br />
sell wares<br />
here. Today, it<br />
is famous for<br />
its bustling<br />
Sunday<br />
Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa<br />
antiques market (see p18). On<br />
weekdays, it is an ideal spot for<br />
alfresco drinks and snacks.<br />
d Map F3<br />
Museo de la Pasión & Boquense<br />
This chintzy museum revels in<br />
the glory of the Boca Juniors<br />
Club. Items on display include<br />
soccer trophies won over the<br />
years, vintage strips, and retro<br />
videos, including grainy 1920s<br />
footage. Expect gimmicky stuff<br />
too – have your ‘‘photo’’ taken<br />
with a grinning Maradona or buy<br />
a bottle of La Boca wine in the<br />
club store. d Map G6 • Brandsen 805,<br />
La Boca • 4362-1<strong>10</strong>0 • Open <strong>10</strong>am–6pm<br />
daily • Adm • www.museoboquense.com<br />
* Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa<br />
The 1901 construction of this<br />
beautiful Russian Orthodox<br />
Church confirmed San Telmo as<br />
a bubbling melting pot of<br />
immigrant cultures. Its striking<br />
design – a blue-and-white oniondomed<br />
affair – was drawn up in<br />
Moscow and financed by<br />
Russia’s imperial house along<br />
with members of <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’<br />
Orthodox community. It mirrors<br />
exactly the churches of the<br />
Russian capital. d Map F4 • Avda.<br />
Brasil 315, San Telmo<br />
( Puente<br />
Transbordador<br />
La Boca’s most iconic<br />
landmark, this<br />
magnificent transporter<br />
bridge is<br />
one of only a<br />
dozen or so of its<br />
kind left in the<br />
world. Built in<br />
1908, its<br />
powerful iron<br />
frame<br />
straddles the<br />
polluted waters
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