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Around Town – Barrio Norte, Recoleta, and Around<br />
66<br />
Shalom <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong><br />
<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong> is home to Latin<br />
America’s biggest Jewish<br />
community, and its hub is the<br />
barrio of Once. This bustling,<br />
colorful, traffic-choked district is<br />
lined with Jewish businesses,<br />
delicatessens, kosher restaurants,<br />
and temples. At its heart is the<br />
AMIA building, the site of one of<br />
two Jewish-targeted terrorist<br />
attacks in the 1990s (see p33).<br />
% Avenida Corrientes<br />
The center of the city’s<br />
theater district, this legendary<br />
thoroughfare was called “the<br />
avenue that never sleeps” in the<br />
1940s, when it overflowed with<br />
theaters and movie theaters.<br />
Today, it is a tad bedraggled<br />
though the theaters remain.<br />
It is also lined with cafés and<br />
bookstores, including excellent<br />
second-hand stores (see p69).<br />
d Map P6<br />
Centro Cultural Recoleta<br />
^ A vibrant contemporary art<br />
space, this cultural center<br />
occupies the old Recoleta<br />
monastery, built in 1732. Twenty<br />
separate galleries host temporary<br />
exhibitions. Exhibits are<br />
edgy, provocative, and rich in<br />
social, political, and religious<br />
comment. There is also a micromovie<br />
theater, an auditorium<br />
housed in the monastery chapel,<br />
several multifunctional spaces,<br />
Centro Cultural Recoleta<br />
Exhibits at Museo de la Ciudad<br />
and a roof-top terrace where<br />
performances take place in<br />
summer. d Map N3 • Junín 1930<br />
• 4803-<strong>10</strong>40 • Open 2–9pm Mon–Fri,<br />
<strong>10</strong>am–9pm Sat–Sun • www.centrocultural<br />
recoleta.org<br />
Museo de la Ciudad & Housed in a private residence<br />
dating from 1894, this<br />
museum includes recreations of<br />
Art Nouveau and Art Deco<br />
bedrooms, a typical 1900s office,<br />
and a dining room from the<br />
1950s. Other displays feature<br />
antique children’s toys,<br />
architectural antiques, and period<br />
furniture and paintings. The<br />
Farmacia de la Estrella in the<br />
same block is a functioning<br />
pharmacy open since 1834.<br />
It includes ceiling frescoes and<br />
an antique counter and weighing<br />
scales. d Map F2 • Defensa 219,<br />
Montserrat • 4331-9855 • Open<br />
11am–7pm daily • Adm<br />
* Teatro Colón<br />
Inaugurated in 1908, the<br />
Teatro Colón is one of the<br />
world’s great opera houses.<br />
Opera, ballet, and classical music<br />
concerts take place in its<br />
auditorium and past performers<br />
have included Pavarotti, Nureyev,<br />
and María Callas. You can take a<br />
guided tour of its majestic<br />
interior, auditorium, salons, and<br />
labyrinth of workshops and<br />
rehearsal rooms (see pp12–13).