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Top 10 Buenos Aires

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Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes<br />

! Avenida 9 de Julio<br />

Conceived in the 1930s as a<br />

means of alleviating gridlocked<br />

north-south traffic in the city<br />

center, Avenida 9 de Julio cut a<br />

459-ft (140-m) wide swath from<br />

Constitución station to Retiro.<br />

The city’s youngest public work,<br />

this avenue creates a symbolic<br />

link between the traditionally<br />

working-class southern barrios<br />

and the aristocratic north, yet the<br />

frenetic span in between knows<br />

no such distinctions. Along this<br />

busy and exciting street, a visitor<br />

is as likely to enjoy a <strong>10</strong>-peso<br />

pizza along its jacaranda-lined<br />

flanks as catch a deluxe tango<br />

dinner show in a neighboring<br />

hotel’s ballroom (see pp20–21).<br />

Avenida de Mayo @ The city’s first great<br />

boulevard, the grand Avenida de<br />

Mayo was built in 1894 to link<br />

Argentina’s two seats of<br />

governmental power – the Casa<br />

Rosada presidential palace<br />

and the Palacio del Congreso.<br />

Fronted by Parisian palaces<br />

and cupolas, the Avenue’s<br />

magnificent architecture is a<br />

reflection of <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’<br />

Francophile pretensions of the<br />

time. Ironic, then, that it was the<br />

Spanish community who made<br />

the avenue its own, lining it with<br />

Iberian cafés, restaurants, and<br />

bars, most of which are open<br />

and very popular even today<br />

(see pp14–15).<br />

£ Museo Nacional<br />

de Bellas Artes<br />

<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ fine<br />

arts museum, the<br />

MNBA was founded<br />

in 1896 and houses<br />

over 12,000 works of<br />

art. Permanent<br />

collections on display<br />

include pre-Columbian<br />

art, Argentinian art of<br />

the 19th and 20th centuries, and<br />

international art by old and<br />

modern masters, including Goya,<br />

El Greco, Van Gogh, Picasso,<br />

Kandinsky, and Miró. An<br />

auditorium screens films daily<br />

(see pp16–17).<br />

$ Cementerio de la Recoleta<br />

Explored via a labyrinth of<br />

streets and narrow alleys,<br />

Cementerio de la Recoleta, the<br />

fabulous city of the dead, is the<br />

burial place of presidents,<br />

military generals, and patrician<br />

families of Argentina. Its high<br />

walls protect mausoleums of<br />

granite and bronze topped by<br />

cupolas and marble sculptures<br />

of angels and crying mothers.<br />

Its most famous resident is<br />

Evita Perón (see p58), though<br />

the most beautiful tomb is that<br />

of José C. Paz (see pp<strong>10</strong>–11).<br />

Cementerio de la Recoleta<br />

Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around 65

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