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Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes<br />
! Avenida 9 de Julio<br />
Conceived in the 1930s as a<br />
means of alleviating gridlocked<br />
north-south traffic in the city<br />
center, Avenida 9 de Julio cut a<br />
459-ft (140-m) wide swath from<br />
Constitución station to Retiro.<br />
The city’s youngest public work,<br />
this avenue creates a symbolic<br />
link between the traditionally<br />
working-class southern barrios<br />
and the aristocratic north, yet the<br />
frenetic span in between knows<br />
no such distinctions. Along this<br />
busy and exciting street, a visitor<br />
is as likely to enjoy a <strong>10</strong>-peso<br />
pizza along its jacaranda-lined<br />
flanks as catch a deluxe tango<br />
dinner show in a neighboring<br />
hotel’s ballroom (see pp20–21).<br />
Avenida de Mayo @ The city’s first great<br />
boulevard, the grand Avenida de<br />
Mayo was built in 1894 to link<br />
Argentina’s two seats of<br />
governmental power – the Casa<br />
Rosada presidential palace<br />
and the Palacio del Congreso.<br />
Fronted by Parisian palaces<br />
and cupolas, the Avenue’s<br />
magnificent architecture is a<br />
reflection of <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’<br />
Francophile pretensions of the<br />
time. Ironic, then, that it was the<br />
Spanish community who made<br />
the avenue its own, lining it with<br />
Iberian cafés, restaurants, and<br />
bars, most of which are open<br />
and very popular even today<br />
(see pp14–15).<br />
£ Museo Nacional<br />
de Bellas Artes<br />
<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ fine<br />
arts museum, the<br />
MNBA was founded<br />
in 1896 and houses<br />
over 12,000 works of<br />
art. Permanent<br />
collections on display<br />
include pre-Columbian<br />
art, Argentinian art of<br />
the 19th and 20th centuries, and<br />
international art by old and<br />
modern masters, including Goya,<br />
El Greco, Van Gogh, Picasso,<br />
Kandinsky, and Miró. An<br />
auditorium screens films daily<br />
(see pp16–17).<br />
$ Cementerio de la Recoleta<br />
Explored via a labyrinth of<br />
streets and narrow alleys,<br />
Cementerio de la Recoleta, the<br />
fabulous city of the dead, is the<br />
burial place of presidents,<br />
military generals, and patrician<br />
families of Argentina. Its high<br />
walls protect mausoleums of<br />
granite and bronze topped by<br />
cupolas and marble sculptures<br />
of angels and crying mothers.<br />
Its most famous resident is<br />
Evita Perón (see p58), though<br />
the most beautiful tomb is that<br />
of José C. Paz (see pp<strong>10</strong>–11).<br />
Cementerio de la Recoleta<br />
Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around 65