Top 10 Buenos Aires
Top 10 Buenos Aires Top 10 Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 24 Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay Neither the world’s widest river delta nor a sovereign border can distance Colonia del Sacramento, or simply “Colonia,” from Buenos Aires’ orbit. Modern ferries departing from Puerto Madero whisk passengers (with passports) across. Pesos circulate freely among the local currency, the uruguayo, as do wisps of woodsmoke carrying the aroma of grilled beef. But it is the contrasts between Buenos Aires and this UNESCO-recognized, former Portuguese maritime stronghold, established in 1680, that make Colonia worth a visit. Whereas the Río de la Plata is hidden from Buenos Aires’ view, it is everywhere here, lapping sandy beaches, reflecting the peninsula’s emblematic lighthouse, and swallowing the setting sun. El Portón de Campo Arrive at Buquebus’ Puerto Madero terminal at least an hour before departure, as checkin lines can be formidable, especially on weekends. Food is prepared uniformly well in the the historic district’s kitchens, but for a menu and decor as eclectic as anything in Palermo Viejo, visit El Drugstore (see p99). • Map B4 • Museums: open 11am–4:45pm daily; museum pass: US$1.5; pass can be bought at the Museo Municipal on the Plaza Mayor. It grants access to all seven museums of Colonia. The Lighthouse is not included in this pass. Top 10 Features 1 Plaza Mayor 2 Museo Portugues 3 El Faro & Convento de San Francisco 4 Real de San Carlos 5 Casa Nacarello 6 Playa Ferrando 7 Iglesia Matriz 8 Calle de los Suspiros 9 El Portón de Campo 0 Rambla Costanera ! Plaza Mayor The Plaza Mayor (above) has stately palms and colonies of Austral parrots. Ringed by many museums, it makes a good starting point for exploring the peninsula’s cobbled streets. Museo Portugues @ This 1720 bi-level house explores the legacy of Portugal in Colonia. The museum contains 16thcentury navigation map replicas, period uniforms, and an intriguing exhibit on the delta’s role in the African slave trade, along with artifacts from the period. £ El Faro & Convento de San Francisco The 1857 lighthouse (below) pulls off the neat trick of incorporating the ruins of a late 17th-century convent into its form. For beach trips or a visit to Real de San Carlos, take an ABC bus from Avda. General Flores. You can also take a taxi or a scooter.
$ Real de San Carlos This once-grand resort complex is a skeleton of its former self. The Moorish-style bullring (above), casino, and coastal dock, are today a few wooden pilings. * Calle de los Suspiros The narrow streets sloping water-ward from the Plaza Mayor are very picturesque, and Calle de los Suspiros, or Street of Sighs, earns its distinction among them. % Casa Nacarello This house (right) is a typical mid-18th-century Portuguese residence, stocked with originals and replicas of period furniture. The dark kitchen is very striking. ( El Portón de Campo This Portuguese-built 1745 archway, the City Gate, is the only structure remaining of the original fortification. It feels almost medieval in its form and heft. ) Rambla Costanera This west-facing street (left) hugs the waterfront, affording views of adjacent islands. The rocks below are an ideal spot to eat lunch, and are accessible via two stairways leading down from Costanera. Playa Ferrando ^ East of the center is Playa Ferrando, the area’s most pleasant beach, with shade trees and a nearby grill. It is best accessed via a rental scooter, but a taxi would cost only US$3. Iglesia Matriz & Built in 1680, Uruguay’s oldest church (below) is remarkable for its unadorned white stucco façade and twin cupolas, both of them covered in beautiful Italianate tile work. Getting There Buquebus, which runs the most frequent ferry service to and from Colonia, has its ultramodern ticket office and terminal at Puerto Madero’s northernmost point (Avda. Antártida Argentina 821, 4316- 6500; www.buquebus. com). Swift catamarans make the trip in under an hour, but do not allow passengers on deck. For a more leisurely crossing, take the three-hour Eladia Isabel, a comfortable vessel that allows deck access. Colonia’s clocks are set an hour ahead of Buenos Aires’ time. Buenos Aires’ Top 10 25
- Page 1: �����������
- Page 4 and 5: Contents 2 Left Tango show Center P
- Page 7 and 8: BUENOS AIRES’ TOP 10 Buenos Aires
- Page 9 and 10: � � � � � � � � �
- Page 11 and 12: Pirámide de Mayo The Pirámide (ri
- Page 13 and 14: % Pantheon of Outstanding Citizens
- Page 15 and 16: $ Vitreaux The massive vitreaux (ab
- Page 17 and 18: $ Hotel Castelar Its name flows ele
- Page 19 and 20: # Graphic Arts 1940-70 Socialist ar
- Page 21 and 22: $ Monumento del Canto al Trabajo A
- Page 23 and 24: $ Estatua del Quijote Miguel Cervá
- Page 25: 8 $ Antonio Seguí - La Distancia d
- Page 29 and 30: ^ Chiquín $ Botica del Angel This
- Page 31: Top 10 Tango Tunes 1 La Cumparsita
- Page 35 and 36: Diego Maradona “Liberating Revolu
- Page 37 and 38: popular tango venue and has many of
- Page 39 and 40: Plazoleta Carlos ^ Pellegrini This
- Page 41 and 42: La Vitrina & Check La Vitrina befor
- Page 43 and 44: Museo de Artes Plásticas ^ Eduardo
- Page 45 and 46: Buenos Aires Fashion Week abroad. E
- Page 47 and 48: La Catedral ^ Held in an abandoned
- Page 49 and 50: El Living ^ El Living is the city
- Page 51: Empire Thai & This gay-friendly res
- Page 55 and 56: Locro, the local stew bars offering
- Page 57 and 58: old walls lined with racks of wine
- Page 59 and 60: & Nectarine Surrender to a memorabl
- Page 61 and 62: Author Jorge Luis Borges español.
- Page 63: Jardín Zoológico & Snow leopards
- Page 66 and 67: Barrio Norte , Recoleta & Around 64
- Page 68 and 69: Around Town - Barrio Norte, Recolet
- Page 70 and 71: Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around 68
- Page 72 and 73: Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around 70
- Page 74 and 75: Around Town - San Telmo & La Boca 7
$ Real de San<br />
Carlos<br />
This once-grand resort<br />
complex is a skeleton of<br />
its former self. The<br />
Moorish-style bullring<br />
(above), casino, and<br />
coastal dock, are today a<br />
few wooden pilings.<br />
* Calle de los<br />
Suspiros<br />
The narrow streets sloping<br />
water-ward from the<br />
Plaza Mayor are very picturesque,<br />
and Calle de<br />
los Suspiros, or Street<br />
of Sighs, earns its<br />
distinction among them.<br />
%<br />
Casa Nacarello<br />
This house (right) is a<br />
typical mid-18th-century<br />
Portuguese residence,<br />
stocked with originals<br />
and replicas of period<br />
furniture. The dark<br />
kitchen is very striking.<br />
( El Portón de<br />
Campo<br />
This Portuguese-built<br />
1745 archway, the<br />
City Gate, is the only<br />
structure remaining of<br />
the original fortification.<br />
It feels almost medieval<br />
in its form and heft.<br />
) Rambla Costanera<br />
This west-facing<br />
street (left) hugs the<br />
waterfront, affording<br />
views of adjacent islands.<br />
The rocks below are an<br />
ideal spot to eat lunch,<br />
and are accessible via<br />
two stairways leading<br />
down from Costanera.<br />
Playa Ferrando ^ East of the center is<br />
Playa Ferrando, the area’s<br />
most pleasant beach,<br />
with shade trees and a<br />
nearby grill. It is best<br />
accessed via a rental<br />
scooter, but a taxi would<br />
cost only US$3.<br />
Iglesia Matriz & Built in 1680,<br />
Uruguay’s oldest church<br />
(below) is remarkable for<br />
its unadorned white<br />
stucco façade and twin<br />
cupolas, both of them<br />
covered in beautiful<br />
Italianate tile work.<br />
Getting There<br />
Buquebus, which runs<br />
the most frequent ferry<br />
service to and from<br />
Colonia, has its ultramodern<br />
ticket office and<br />
terminal at Puerto<br />
Madero’s northernmost<br />
point (Avda. Antártida<br />
Argentina 821, 4316-<br />
6500; www.buquebus.<br />
com). Swift catamarans<br />
make the trip in under<br />
an hour, but do not<br />
allow passengers on<br />
deck. For a more leisurely<br />
crossing, take the<br />
three-hour Eladia Isabel,<br />
a comfortable vessel<br />
that allows deck access.<br />
Colonia’s clocks are set an hour ahead of <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ time.<br />
<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ <strong>Top</strong> <strong>10</strong> 25