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<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ <strong>Top</strong> <strong>10</strong><br />
18<br />
San Telmo<br />
The heart of colonial <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>, lovely San Telmo is the city’s<br />
most romantic neighborhood with its cobblestone streets,<br />
colonial houses, Spanish churches, and antiques stores. It was<br />
first inhabited by elite families who fled during a yellow fever<br />
outbreak in 1871, their mansions becoming tenement houses or<br />
conventillos for poor European immigrants. San Telmo soon<br />
became a melting pot of cultures, a working-class stronghold,<br />
and later, a Bohemian quarter synonymous with tango. Newly<br />
fashionable and sprinkled with slick loft apartments, chic restaurants,<br />
and boutique hotels, it retains an engagingly gritty feel.<br />
Street market, San Telmo<br />
There are numerous<br />
places to watch<br />
tango in San Telmo.<br />
El Viejo Almacén (see<br />
p45) and Bar Sur<br />
(Estados Unidos 299;<br />
4362-6086) are two<br />
of the best.<br />
A great place for a<br />
snack is El Federal<br />
(see p57), a bar-café.<br />
• Map F4<br />
• Feria de Antigüedades:<br />
Open <strong>10</strong>am–5pm Sun<br />
• Museo de Arte<br />
Moderno: Avda. San<br />
Juan 350; 4361-1121;<br />
www.aamamba.com.ar;<br />
4342-2970<br />
• Street performers:<br />
Calle Defensa btwn<br />
Plaza Dorrego & Avda.<br />
Belgrano<br />
• Mercado de San<br />
Telmo: Avda. Carlos<br />
Calvo and Bolívar<br />
• Iglesia Nuestra Senora:<br />
Avda. Humberto Primo<br />
378<br />
• Pasaje la Defensa:<br />
Defensa 1179<br />
<strong>Top</strong> <strong>10</strong> Features<br />
1 Plaza Dorrego<br />
2 Feria de Antigüedades<br />
3 Parque Lezama<br />
4 Monumento del Canto<br />
al Trabajo<br />
5 Museo de Arte Moderno<br />
6 Street Performers<br />
7 Mercado de San Telmo<br />
8 Balconies<br />
9 Iglesia Nuestra Señora<br />
de Belén<br />
0 Pasaje de la Defensa<br />
! Plaza Dorrego<br />
At the heart of San<br />
Telmo, picturesque Plaza<br />
Dorrego dates from the<br />
colonial period and is<br />
ringed by antiques stores,<br />
old tango bars, and sepiatoned<br />
cafés.<br />
#<br />
Parque Lezama<br />
A popular recreation<br />
area, this park (right) is<br />
believed to be the spot<br />
where <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong> was<br />
founded. A statue of the<br />
city’s founder, Pedro de<br />
Mendoza, stands at the<br />
park’s northwestern corner.<br />
Antique jar<br />
Feria de @ Antigüedades<br />
This Sunday antiques fair<br />
(left) has been taking place<br />
on Plaza Dorrego since<br />
1970. Items range from<br />
19th-century Art-Nouveau<br />
ornaments to the kooky<br />
and kitschy. Rummage<br />
around for a bargain.<br />
The no. 29 bus line connects San Telmo to La Boca. On its return<br />
it descends Calle Defensa, stopping at Plaza Dorrego.
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