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Streetsmart<br />
<strong>10</strong>6<br />
Left Heavy traffic on Avenida Corrientes Right Crowds in San Telmo<br />
Things to Avoid<br />
! Tourist Traps<br />
Avoid the costly<br />
leather goods stores on<br />
Calle Florida and the herd<br />
‘em in herd ‘em out<br />
“tango for export” shows<br />
aimed at visitors. Give a<br />
wide berth to the overpriced<br />
Irish theme pubs<br />
in Microcentro since they<br />
are neither authentic Irish<br />
nor Argentinian. Think<br />
twice before spending<br />
money on second-rate<br />
steak at expensive and<br />
characterless restaurants<br />
in Puerto Madero.<br />
Crime Hotspots @ <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong> is<br />
generally a very safe city<br />
but be careful in certain<br />
areas. These include the<br />
southern districts of La<br />
Boca and Constitución.<br />
In San Telmo watch out<br />
for pickpockets and<br />
“mustard” scams – a<br />
local trick in which<br />
mustard is squirted over<br />
your shirt on a busy<br />
street. A “passerby”<br />
brings it to your attention<br />
and helps you wipe it off,<br />
just as a third person<br />
uses the distraction to<br />
nab your wallet.<br />
£ Rush Hour<br />
Traffic in <strong>Buenos</strong><br />
<strong>Aires</strong> is heavy, with rush<br />
hour lasting nearly all<br />
day. Roads are worse on<br />
weekdays before <strong>10</strong>am<br />
and between 5pm and<br />
8pm, especially on Friday<br />
evenings, when middleclass<br />
porteños leave the<br />
city en masse for<br />
weekend houses in<br />
<strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>’ province.<br />
$ Taking a Taxi<br />
Without Change<br />
There is a chronic<br />
shortage of small change<br />
in <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong> and if<br />
you offer high denomination<br />
notes, the driver<br />
will spend 15 minutes<br />
driving around looking for<br />
change, while adding to<br />
your fare. Check beforehand<br />
if the driver is<br />
carrying change, or in the<br />
case of radio taxis,<br />
inform the operator.<br />
% Unscrupulous<br />
Taxi Drivers<br />
Never get into a taxi that<br />
does not display an<br />
official registration<br />
certificate on the back of<br />
the driver’s or front<br />
passenger’s seat. Avoid<br />
flagging down taxis in<br />
the Puerto Madero<br />
district, where rogue<br />
taxis circulate.<br />
Dog Poop ^ Dog poop here<br />
features as a major issue<br />
in mayoral elections,<br />
alongside unemployment<br />
and crime. It is especially<br />
bad in residential districts<br />
such as San Telmo and<br />
Palermo Viejo, where the<br />
only way to avoid an<br />
unfortunate union of<br />
shoe and poop is by<br />
keeping your eyes fixed<br />
to the ground.<br />
Parque 3 de & Febrero at Night<br />
Beautiful by day, Parque<br />
3 de Febrero turns dark<br />
at night – literally and<br />
metaphorically. This is<br />
when the city’s<br />
For telephone numbers of safe taxi firms See p<strong>10</strong>4.<br />
transvestite prostitutes<br />
and their pimps take<br />
over. While some visitors<br />
will wish to avoid it,<br />
others may want to take<br />
the sight in.<br />
* Unauthorized<br />
Money Changers<br />
Called arbolitos or “little<br />
trees,” these have lined<br />
Calle Florida since<br />
Argentina’s 2001 economic<br />
crisis. They are<br />
likely to rip you off on the<br />
exchange rate or give you<br />
fake peso notes.<br />
( Taking Offense<br />
Porteños pay little<br />
heed to political<br />
correctness. Young and<br />
old swear with gay<br />
abandon. Despite a ban<br />
on smoking in public<br />
places, smokers are<br />
everywhere. And it is<br />
a relentlessly macho<br />
society in which women<br />
travelers can be<br />
subjected to passing<br />
comments. However, it is<br />
all invariably harmless,<br />
and best taken with a<br />
large pinch of salt.<br />
) January<br />
Not the best month<br />
to visit <strong>Buenos</strong> <strong>Aires</strong>.<br />
This is when temperatures<br />
reach <strong>10</strong>4°F (40°C)<br />
and humidity soars.<br />
The city’s cultural<br />
activities and nightlife<br />
also take a dip since<br />
most porteños leave the<br />
city for vacations,<br />
heading to Argentina’s<br />
Atlantic coast resorts. On<br />
the flip side, hotel prices<br />
at this time are cheap.