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Zagreb – city with one million heartsContentsTime Out ZagrebPublished by Plant d.o.o. (Time Out Croatia)Directors David Plant, Vanda Vu±i©evi©Jankova±ka 42, 10000 Zagreb, Croatiainfo@timeoutcroatia.comManaging Director David PlantEditorialEditor-in-Chief Peterjon CresswellContributors (editorial) Aleksandar Draga∫,David Plant, Matthew Field, Peterjon Cresswell,Maja and Reuben FowkesContributors (photography) Vanda Vu±i©evi©,Matthew Field, Carly Calhoun, Nikola Fox(nikola.fox@gmail.com)Additional photographs used with the kindpermission of Zagreb Golf & Country Club, WHW,Cest is d’Best, Animafest, Madhouse TheatreCompany, Sheraton Zagreb, Regent Esplanade,PiranhaDesignArt Director Enes Husein±ehaji©Photo Editor Vanda Vu±i©evi©Cover CreditsPhotography Vanda Vu±i©evi©Styling Mauro MassarottoModels Mato∫ Rado∫ and Anamarija Uzbinecat MidikenDigital Production Provision LondonThanks to Sheriff and CherryPrinting St Ives, Peterborough, UKDistribution Time Out London, April 16 2008,and via the Zagreb Tourist BoardMap JS Graphics (john@jsgraphics.co.uk)Whilst every effort and care has been taken toensure the accuracy of the information containedin this publication, the publisher cannot acceptresponsibility for any errors it may contain.All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,without prior permission of Time Out CroatiaThanks to Amelia Toma∫evi©, Dra∆en Hochecker(Zagreb Tourist Board, Dubravka Mici©, IvaCaleta), Shane Duffy, Jenan Peku∫i©, Will Salmon,Cathy Runciman, Brendan McKeown© Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2008Chairman Tony ElliottGroup Financial Director Richard WaterlowGuides Managing Director Peter FiennesOnline Managing Director David PepperInternational Managing Director Cathy RuncimanWe would like to thank our advertisers for theirinvolvement. However we stress that they haveno influence over editorial content.Produced in association withZAGREB TOURIST BOARDKaptol 5, 10000 Zagrebwww.zagreb-touristinfo.hrPublished under the authority and with thecollaboration of Time Out International Limited,London, UKThe name and logo of Time Out are used underlicense from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 TottenhamCourt Road, London, W1T 7AB, UKTel +44 (0) 20 7813 3000 www.timeout.comThe FeaturesThe EssentialsFour of the best 4Breaking news from ZagrebWhat’s on 7Ideas for what to do and whenMarket day 9The city’s natural resourceMy Zagreb 12Local creatives talk shopCity map 14Here & Now 15Sightseeing 16Restaurants 18Cafés & Bars 20Nightlife 22Hotels 24Directory 26TIME OUT Zagreb 3

Fourofthebest1Four playZagreb quartet Sabina Sabolovi©,Nata∫a Ili©, Ana Devi© and IvetCurlina, known as WHW, have beeninvited to curate the prestigiousIstanbul Biennial for 2009. The all-girlCroatian collective, based at the littleknownGalerija Nova, were selectedthanks to a series of groundbreakingevents staged since 2000.WHW (locally known as ’Vay-Ha-Vay’) refers to the ’What, How andFor Whom’ demanded of everyeconomic organization that is to saywhat is produced, for whom, and howit is distributed. The team has turnedthese questions into principles thatserve as a checklist for every projectthey curate. They emerged with ashow coinciding with the 152ndanniversary of the CommunistsManifesto. Influenced by celebratedSlovenian philosopher Slavoj ◊i∆ek,the exhibition drew attention to asearch for alternatives to a ruthlesseconomic system, and questioned thedefinition of a post-communist EastEuropean identity. In a similar vein,subsequent exhibitions expanded onWHWs exploration of social issuesand politically sensitive topics.Collective Creativity, staged inGermany in 2005, displayed the workof international artist collectives,including Gilbert and George andthe Slovenian neo-avant-garde groupIrwin. Back home, WHW transformedthe quiet downtown Nova Galerija,strategically positioned between thenotorious independent Radio 101 andthe avant-garde theatre ZKM, into avenue to be reckoned with. Clearingout the cellars, doubling theexhibition space and creating ascreening room, the four-membercollective also sought to connectvarious alternative cultural centresthroughout Croatia through anexchange initiative entitled Clubture.The domestic programme consistsof a multi-layered mix of exhibitions,lectures and screenings, all keenlydocumented in the Galerija Novanewspaper. The team have alsoproduced several catalogues andedited books by well-known culturaltheorists, printed in a distinctivered-and-black layout designed byclose associate Dejan Kr∫i©. Recentappearances in the gallery haveincluded Janes Jan∫a, a Slovenianartist who famously changed hisname to that of his country’s servingPrime Minister, Dubrovnik artcelebrity Slaven Tolj, sociallyengaged Zagreb artist AndrejaKulun±i©, and neglected modernistsculptor, Vojin Baki©.Maja and Reuben Fowkes2Fore!Croatia’s first 18-hole championshipstandardgolf course opens outsideZagreb this May. Some 15 minutesfrom the city, the Golf & CountryClub Zagreb (Jadranska Avenija 6,01 653 11 77, www.gcczagreb.hr) willbe the best in the region, with a largedriving range of 40 grass bays and12 covered bays for floodlit practiceat night. There are chipping andputting greens, another nine-holepar-30 course and a clubhouse setout in traditional style.This traditional style is nocoincidence. Between the wars, thecity’s international set played golf inthe Maksimir Park, and had stronglinks with the Esplanade Hotel, hometo the first Golf Club Zagreb andvenue for the annual Golfers’ Ball.Harking back to this period, theGCCZ has bought the old receptiondesk at the Esplanade and set it upas a bar in the clubhouse.For beginners there will beEnglish-language tuition and theoption of hiring a set of clubs,whatever your handicap.The testing main course, 6,400metres long with 11 lakes, is dueto open on Zagreb City Day, 31 May.A second restaurant will be addedto the clubhouse plus, of course,a members’ bar.To reach the club from Zagreb bycar, cross the Sava from Savska viathe Jadranski Bridge, turn right atthe roundabout towards Karlovac,then right again at the second set oftraffic lights. You’ll find the mainentrance just a kilometre ahead.Matt Field3Street partyThe 12th running of Zagreb’s mostendearing and unusual festival takesplace this June. Cest is d’Best, thename derived from an associationof street entertainers, Cestagram,is a week-long celebration of outdoorperformance in prominent locationsin and around the city’s main square.The inspiration behind the eventsare Pajo and Had∆i from the bandKraljevi ulice (‘Street Kings’), localstreet musicians whose popularityrose after an appearance at anational song contest featuringold-fashioned melodies from the1930s. The pair can also be seenregularly on a local TV music showand hanging around busking withtheir instruments on Trg bana JosipaJela±i©a and Trg Petra Preradovi©a,the main and flower market squares.For the June event a stage will alsobe set up outside the age-old Charliebar on Gajeva, with impromptu eventson pedestrianised Bogovi©eva nearby.Highlights for 2008 include livesculpture by Germany’s Bartel Mayer,Gaby Corbo’s one-woman circus fromArgentina and Leopardman’s physicalcomedy from Australia. See also p7.But Cest is d’Best is not only aboutperformance alone. Among the manychildren’s activities are a hugeclimbing wall on Jela±i©; there is a slowcycling competition, a baby marathonand a race between local dustmen. Youcan even learn Croatian sign languageunderwater. For more information,refer to www.kraljeviulice.com.Aleksandar Draga∫4Island festivalNick Cave & the Bad Seeds headlineat this year’s Vip INmusic festival,Croatia’s biggest, held on an island inZagreb’s Lake Jarun. The Brightonbasedsinger whose new album, ‘DIG,LAZARUS, DIG!!!’ is released inMarch, follows Franz Ferdinand, IggyPop and Morrissey, who have allappeared at this high-profile event.Shows run over two days, on Tuesday3 and Wednesday 4 June. With thislatest album, Cave plays with originalBad Seed Mick Harvey, plus drummerThomas Wydler, bass player MartynP Casey, pianist Conway Savage,Warren Ellis, Jim Sclavunos andJames Johnston. The new tunes aremoody and atmospheric, not unlikeCave’s recent musical settings for filmsoundtracks. Although the rest of thisyear’s line-up is yet to confirmed, fourstages will be set up – Vip, Nokia,Tuborg Green and the late-nightRadio 101 – and camping will beavailable. More details and onlinesales: www.vipinmusicfestival.com.Peterjon Cresswell4 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 5

What’sonUrban Festival 2008Various venues(www.urbanfestival.hr).Date 5-15 May.A multimedia festival of contemporaryart set up at various outdoor locationsaround the city with an annual theme.This year’s subject is ‘How we regret’.Zagreb City DayVarious venues(01 48 14 051/www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr).Date 31 May.Shows, concerts and exhibitionsacross a flower-strewn town centreto mark Zagreb City Day.Dance Week FestivalBijankinijeva 5 (01 46 41 154/www.danceweekfestival.com).Date 24 May-4 June.Thiseventtakesplaceatseveralvenueshere,inRijekaandZadar.Theagendaisinthreesections,onededicatedtoworksbychoreographersofupto27yearsofage.Strossmartre 2008Strossmayerovo ∫etali∫te(www.kraljeviulice.com).Date 1-30 June.Run by the people behind Cest isd’Best (see below), this month-longoutdoor event stages free films,concerts and unusual happenings(best mongrel dog show, finestwine-and-soda spritzer competition)in the lovely, leafy setting of theStrossmayer Promenade.Vip INmusic FestivalLake Jarun(www.vipinmusicfestival.com).Date 3-4 June.High-profile, four-stage, two-daymusic festival on an island in LakeJarun. This year’s main act is NickCave & the Bad Seeds. See p5.Cest is d’BestVarious venues(www.kraljeviulice.com).Date June.This popular celebration of streetentertainment is set around Zagrebcity centre. 2008 sees shows byGermany’s Bartel Mayer, GabyCorbo from Argentina and, fromAustralia, Leopardman. See p5.AnimafestKneza Mislava 18 (01 45 01 191/www.animafest.hr).Date 31 May-5 June.The 18th running of this festival foranimated films. Most screeningstake place at the Europa Cinema,Var∫avska 3. See pic above.Eurokaz InternationalBogovi©eva 1/IV (01 48 47 856/www.eurokaz.hr).Date 21 June-4 July.Since 1987, Eurokaz has featured300 artists from around the world,with shows ranging from theatre tocontemporary dance, and body artto new circus.Nebo World Music FestivalVarious venues(www.nebofestzagreb.com).Date 5-8 October.Acts from all over the world come toZagreb to perform – the 2007highlight was from Mongolia.Zagreb Film FestivalSavska 25 (01 45 93 692/www.zagrebfilmfestival.com).Date 19-24 October.A week-long celebration of celluloid,with global directors challenging forthe Golden Pram awards. This hasbecome the biggest cultural eventin town, with 35,000 visitorsdescending on the Student Centreto watch films and party till late.Madhouse“Zagreb audiences get all thejokes and give the bestreaction.” Mike Kelly shouldknow – he and his Madhousetheatre company have beenperforming regularly in Croatiafor five years. Based inBudapest, where they havea residency at the NationalTheatre, Madhouse havehoned their art – in this case acomedic take on Shakespeare– to suit venue and audience.The region is short of sharp,entertaining English-languagetheatre and Madhouse provideit in spades. Their Hungarianbase also means that Mike,his founding partner MattDevere and newest memberAndy Hefler work with starnames filming there – suchas roles in the BBC TV series‘Robin Hood’. For TheComplete Works ofShakespeare, improvisationis all. “People in Zagreb comeand see the same show againbecause we make everyperformance different,”says Mike. Madhouse cometo Zagreb’s Vidra Theatre,Dra∫kovi©eva 80, in May,and return for shows in thesummer. For more details,see www.nemzetiszinhaz.hu.TIME OUT Zagreb 7

MarketdaySlap bang in the middle of Zagreb,overlooking the main square and inthe shadow of the Cathedral, is thecity’s most precious resource: theDolac. Not every city has a producemarket in its very centre – Paris,London and Brussels lost theirs along time ago. For Zagreb, the Dolac(‘Market’) is more than just a placeof trade and transaction. In thisfractured capital of Upper andLower towns, the Dolac is aconstant, a hub of classless socialinteraction, a weathervane of thelocal economy and Zagreb’sconnection with the villages aroundit, even with distant Dalmatia.Traders’ voices are either distinctlyurban (‘Kaj?’), provincial or comefrom the deepest south. Surroundingthe square are little bars and eateriesoffering gableci, mid-morningsnacks, and cheap lunches. From7am, seven days a week, the Dolacis a-buzz until the early afternoon.After considering severallocations, the city fathers had thismain market built between Kaptoland Tkal±i©eva, Zagreb’s mostatmospheric thoroughfare. Openedin 1930, it comprised a raised opensquare lined with stalls of fruit,vegetables and eggs. At street levelwas an indoor market for meat anddairy traders. In 1933, a fish market,based on the one in Trieste, was setup alongside. This layout remains inplace today, with the addition ofmezzanine in the indoor section andthe recent bright reconstruction ofthe Ribarnica, the fish market.Florists now occupy the top level,where the Dolac meets Opatinova.TIME OUT Zagreb 9

Any old iron?The Dolac is not Zagreb’s onlymarket. A short walk from themain square along Ilica youwill find Britanski trg, wherediplomats’ wives buy their fruitand veg. On Sundays, though,the stalls are cleared and anattractive bric-a-brac and antiquemarket is laid out, with some100 stallholders trading goodsfrom first thing in the morning.Paintings, jewellery, oldcurrency, badges, glass bottles,posters, crockery, silver, oldfarming tools, religious icons,all on display on wooden trestletables – but few bargains.Gone are the days when youcould find a gem going for asong. Still, some beautifulunique pieces will be on offerat prices far less than you wouldpay at an Islington design shop.Even if you don’t find anythingyou want it’s a convivial placefor a potter around and a coffee.The further from Ilica you look,the more likely your chance offinding a spare table at a cafénear the busy browsing.For a less gentrified butperhaps more interestingexperience, jump in a cab ortram Nos.6, 7 or 8 over the Savariver to Novi Zagreb and theSunday morning flea market atHreli©. Many of the goods hereare cheap – clothes, CDs,sports shoes – but you’ll alsofind piles of oddities and raritiesfrom all over the Balkans.Entering from the street, youwalk through the main hall of mainlybakers and butchers. Certain onesstand out. Pekara Dinara fromSesvete is so renowned there arequeues outside their two downtownoutlets; Dubravice is also reputable.There is even Kruh na∫ svagdanji,‘Give us this day’. Of the butchers,Pe∫un-Pe∫un is a quality purveyorof sausages from Dugo Selo. LekaCrijeva i Za©inj allows you tomake your own from the pig’sintestines they provide. To theright is a separate area for ‘Mlije±niProizvodi’, the dairy producers, formany locals reason alone to visit.Sir i vrhnje, cream cheese, sold bythe plastic cup (bring your own bowlor bag), with a sprinkle of salt andpaprika, perhaps a few diced onions,some kruznjak cornbread and, at astretch, spots of spek ham or slicesof dried sausage, comprise thedefinitive Zagreb staple. Producers,their names and addresses placedon each stall, are generally friendlywomen of a certain age: the kumica.A cross between ‘trader’ and‘godmother’, the kumica is a muchlovedfigure of legend. Shoppershave their own favourite; a statuestands to one at the market entrance.At the back of the main hall arered plastic buckets heaped withsauerkraut. Up the stairs is whereyou’ll find poultry and game, withfrozen goods (octopus, cod) between,and two bars – the Zagorka and theZalogajnica Tomislav – at eachend, the latter where local traderslay into four-euro ±obanac goulashafter a hard morning’s work.A few drinks to the good, othersmay congregate in the Buffet Jelsa,a stand-alone cevapi bar for rowdypost-work sing-songs at the back ofthe open square. Around it, stallsproffer souvenirs, Tito-era ladies’hats and lace. Wooden cabins sellolive oil, best put to use on the fishon offer in the Ribarnica, prettymosaics depicting seafood on thewalls. You won’t find fresh fish onMondays or when the Jugo or Borawinds blow, and out of season muchof what is on offer has been farmed.Much of what’s on offer hereis also available, fried or grilledto perfection, next door at thewonderful Amfora café-restaurant.Sit on the terrace with a plate ofgrilled sardines and a glass of wine –there’s a 30kn daily menu – and youcan observe the open-air market inaction. Traders from Zagorje andDalmatia offer cabbages, blitva andother local vegetables, little bundlesof mixed veg (grinzaig) ideal forsoups. Deeper into the market, beans,pumpkins, honey, vinegar and nutsare traded, with dried figs, sun-driedtomatoes and olives near the back,mushrooms towards the front.There you will find the Rubeljgrill and pizzeria, with a summerterrace. At the back, overlooking itall, stands the renowned Kerempuhrestaurant (see p19), its ingredientssupplied by the traders below.TIME OUT Zagreb 11

MyZagrebMauro Massarotto owns Zagreb’s best boutique, Sheriff and Cherry (Medvedgradska 3).He’s also an illustrator, fashion designer and stylist.What’s the fashion scene likein Zagreb?There is no obvious scene. Like all ex-Socialist countries in transition there’sa desire to look Western. It’ll take afew years before people assert theirindividuality. We’ll be in the EU andmany foreigners will live here; peoplewill be more easy-going. We had anauthentic retro-trashy style inYugoslavia but that’s gone and mostpeople who know how to create thisstyle have left. Right now it’s the startbut there are business opportunities,here I can buy my shops, in Londonit’s hard to pay the rent.People here care about theirlooks. Ladies with full make-upjust to pop to the local shop ona Sunday morning.Oh, people care a lot, it’s moreimportant than religion; we evenhave this terrible fashion guru onTV… Many women go to thehairdresser twice a week but theydon’t know much about fashion.We don’t have the magazines, justthings like Cosmo. I get sent lots ofthings by young designers and mostare awful. We have ‘Fashion Weeks’but people don’t understand thebusiness; and styling is poor.But many people look, and like tolook, wealthy.Yes. Brands are perceived as veryimportant – the car, the watch, theshoes, the branded sunglasses, theright cigarettes… I’ve travelled alot and I’ve never seen as manysunglasses shops as in Split[Croatia’s second biggest city onthe Dalmatian coast].Your shops are playful and fun.How’s business and who are yourcustomers?Business is good but we have to workhard; we are playful; it’s a lifestyle –we think a lot about the whole lookand feel including the music. I thinkwe attract a certain mindset so we getall sorts of people; punks to posh andwe get to know them, they come andrelax and spend half an hourchatting… Some other places havegreat clothes but the shop design andstaff just seem wrongWhat creative areas is Croatiagood at?Right now animation, graphicdesign, post-production…What should I do in Zagreb?The authentic. Dolac market (see p9),Hrelic flea market (see box p11), ifsunny Jarun lake (see box p23), adrink at Krolo’s (what locals call MKBar – see p21), a night at KSET (seep22). The alternative crowd needs anew home - the people with greatideas don’t have the money to run aplace so people meet at house parties.So, what’s next for you?The relaunch of Startas, ex-Yugoslavia’ssports brand, starting with sneakers.The factory is the same as it alwayswas, the shoes all handmade.We’re now signing off designs andorganising international distributionincluding London, Paris and Milan.Tena √tivi±i© is a Zagrebbornplaywright resident inLondon who has writtenaward-winning plays inEnglish and Croatian. Herlatest work, GoldoniTerminus, was featured atthe 2007 Venice Biennale.Why theatre?My mum took me when I was little. Iwas mesmerised. I studied at theAcademy of Dramatic Art right afterthe war when the country was inpieces, emotionally andeconomically. We felt isolated.Turbulent times reveal much abouthuman nature however unfortunatethey are to live in. My first play wasabout relationships and an inabilityto communicate. Later I becamefascinated by ‘transition’, theconcept and contradictions. ForZaposlena magazine I write aboutthe bizarre double identity of beingan Eastern European in London andLondoner in Zagreb.How was London at first?The London I imagined was from‘Four Weddings and a Funeral’ and Ilanded in ‘Only Fools and Horses’ –Goldsmiths’ College in New Cross. Itwas strangely liberating but difficultin many ways. It taught me aboutculture, race and identity. After twoweeks I got mugged but even thatwas a valuable experience. Having tofind your way through a new cultureis like learning to walk. I becamesensitive to the immigrant experienceand its misrepresentation in theWestern media. The multiculturalmodel doesn’t try to integrateindividuals but communities.And how is Zagreb now?In the immediate post-war period,society wants to get back tonormal so it chooses denial ratherthan dealing with everything atonce. Slowly Zagreb is becomingmore open and tuned into Europewhile retaining some of its oldcharacter. You can walk from oneplace to the next. The lifestyle ismore laid back, less work-orientedand more spontaneous. There isstill a sense of community that isboth claustrophobic andreassuring. I have coffee in Booksa(see p20) and around Bogovi©eva.The anonymity of London canmake Bogovi©eva feel quite intense– everyone you know is likely topass by. I have drinks in the BPClub (see p23) and I’ve been goingto Noce (see p19), a lovely littlerestaurant at Kamenita Vrata.Eating out here requirescommitment. People still enjoytime with friends and family. InLondon, it’s not a priority.And the future?The company Unique and I areadapting my play Fragile!, staged atthe Arcola Theatre, to be broadcaston BBC Radio 4 on 9 May. I amdeveloping an idea for a TV seriesand I should have a new play out inLondon in September. In Croatia Ihave a book of plays out this Spring.London was designed for those withendless drive. When I grow old Iwould divide my time betweenLondon, perhaps Blackheath, andhave a little Vespa to drive aroundIstria if my bones still serve me well.12 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 13

Here&Nowike Paris, the Croatian capitalgives you the impression thatL nobody is working. Locals relaxon café terraces, lovers stroll theshaded grounds of Ribnjak behindthe twin-towered Cathedral whileshoppers browse the market stallsbrimming with the fresh produceof southern Europe. Shaped byHabsburg rule, Zagreb exudes aMediterreanean way of life, withfringes of Balkan excess wherenightlife is concerned. The city’s onlymust-see is the Cathedral, with thearguable exception of the MimaraMuseum, so sightseeing duties arelight. You can ride the funicularlinking the Upper (Gornji Grad) andLower (Donji Grad) Towns, takein bizarre sights (the TechnicalMuseum is recommended), whileaway an hour in the MaksimirPark or Mirogoj cemetery – orjoin the locals, lovers and browsersdoing whatever they’re doing.Laid out according to Habsburgdesign, with a ‘horseshoe’ of greenspace separating its elegant façades,Zagreb is surprisingly small for acapital of one million people. Anecclesiastical and political hub frommedieval times, Zagreb was ruledfrom Vienna, Budapest and Belgradebefore gaining capital-city status inthe 1990s. Since then, the cityhas been replacing its Tito-erashopfronts with chic boutiques, andthrowing up malls wherever it canfind the space. Walk along any gridpatternedstreet of the Lower Townand you might come across a bar orshop changed little since the 1970s orbefore. These are now the exceptions– Zagreb may be gaining modernitybut it’s losing its charm.Bans and battlesSet by Mount Medvednica, Zagrebgrew up on the north bank of theSava. It comprised two rival hilltopsettlements, Gradec and Kaptol,site of today’s Sabor, the CroatianParliament, and the Cathedral.Kaptol and Gradec fought forcenturies. Proof is in the naming ofKrvavi most, Bloody Bridge, thealley at the end of Skalinska andscene of battles between them.By the 17th century, with theGovernor (Ban) of Croatia andthe Sabor based here, Zagreb’simportance overshadowed the localrivalry. By the 19th, its developmentreflected a growing search fora Croatian identity. Prestigiousbuildings centrepieced a neat spreadof grid-patterned streets and squaresbetween the Upper Town of Kaptoland Gradec, and the train station.Habsburg in appearance, it gainedthe name of Lower Town. A mainsquare, Harmica, was laid out wherethe Upper and Lower Towns met.Power still rested in the twinHabsburg capitals of Vienna andBudapest. In 1848, the Croatian Ban,Josip Jela±i©, led an army intoHungary. His bid failed but he washonoured with a statue on Harmica,mounted on his horse, his swordpointed in defiance.After World War II, Yugoslavleader Tito had the statue removedand the square named Trg republike.Across the river Sava, he built rows ofhousing blocks, Novi (‘New’) Zagreb,site of new developments such as aMuseum of Contemporary Artdue to open by the end of 2008. AfterCroatian independence, the Jela±i©statue was reassembled and thesquare renamed Trg bana JosipaJela±i©a. This is still the mainsquare today, along which pass thecity’s trams all through the day.Everything is an easy hop fromhere, invariably walking, or byjumping on a passing tram for a fewstops. You can take a break at one ofthe many comfortable coffeehouseslining the square. Take your time –that’s what all the locals do.TIME OUT Zagreb 15

Sightseeings a national capital, Zagreb of green space are bookended by thehas its fair share of historic Botanical Gardens. Each is set inAtreasures and fine institutions. three parts, centrepieced by theMost are easily reached on foot from Academy of Arts and Sciences;the central square, itself towered the National Theatre, and theover by the city’s main sight, the Mimara Museum alongside.Cathedral. The Upper Town can Beyond, over the Sava river is Novibe reached by funicular (Tomi©eva, Zagreb, an area of post-war housing6.30am-9pm daily, 3kn), along from to be facilitated by the Museum ofthe square on Ilica. The short ride Contemporary Art (www.mdc.hr/takes you to the Lotr∫©ak Tower msu), the most significant museum to(Strossmayerovo ∫etali∫te 9, 01 48 51 open in Croatia for decades, from the768, open 11am-8pm Tue-Sun, 10kn). autumn of 2008.The sights of St Mark’s Church, Close to the city centre are attractivethe Zagreb City Museum and the spaces for open-air relaxation, mostMe∫trovi© Ateljer are clustered up notably the Maksimir Park, Lakea cobbled incline.Jarun and, more unusually, theThe Lower Town also begins Mirogoj cemetery (see box). Seriousat the main square. A criss-cross sightseers should invest in a Zagrebof streets and Habsburg façades run Card (www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr,down to the train station, the far edge 90kn), available from the city touristof the Lower Town. Neat rectangles office on the main square.CathedralGothic gloryCathedralKaptol 31 (01 48 14 727). Open10am-5pm Mon-Sat; 1-5pm Sun.Zagreb Cathedral is Zagreb’s number oneattraction, its neo-Gothic twin towers visibleacross the city. The original church wasdestroyed by the Tatars in 1242 and later oneswere damaged by fire. After an earthquake in1880, architect Hermann Bollé added the 105mhighbelltowers. The interior features medievalfrescoes, a baroque marble pulpit, a triptychaltar attributed to Albrecht Dürer and an IvanMe∫trovi© relief that marks the resting place ofCroatian Archbishop Alojzije Stepinac.National prideSt Mark’s ChurchTrg sv Marka 5 (01 48 51 611). Open9am-noon, 5-5.45pm daily.Coats of arms grace the chequered roof of thisemblematic church: Zagreb’s and those ofCroatia’s regions. Since the 13th centurywhen the Romanesque original was built, thechurch has gone through many architecturalstyles, with an elaborate Gothic south portaland a baroque belltower. Inside are wallshand-painted by Jo∆o Kljakovi© and a crucifixby Me∫trovi©. Outside stand the Ban’s Palaceand the Sabor (the Croatian Parliament).Peasant heritageCroatian Museum of Naive Art∞irilometodska ulica 3 (01 48 51 911/www.hmnu.org). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri;10am-1pm Sat, Sun. Admission 10kn.Credit AmEx, V.This collection is a decent introduction toCroatia’s naive art movement. Housed on thesecond floor of the 18th-century RaffayPalace, it has a small permanent exhibit ofpeasant life representations.National treasureMe∫trovi© AtelijerMleta±ka 8 (01 48 51 123/www.mdc.hr/mestrovic). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri;10am-2pm Sat, Sun. Admission 20kn.Credit 50kn min AmEx, DC, MC, V.Sculptor Ivan Me∫trovi© lived here until 1942.The collection is spectacular, major worksfrom the artist’s first four decades. Marble,stone, wood and bronze sculptures grace twofloors of this fine house, the front atrium andhis atelier off an ivy-covered courtyard.FolkloreEthnographic MuseumTrg Ivana Ma∆urani©a 14 (01 48 26 220/www.etnografski-muzej.hr). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Thur; 10am-1pm Fri-Sun.Admission 15kn; free Thur.Two floors of folk artefacts are set inside aSecessionist palace. Croatian costumes mixwith items brought back by explorers: Indiantextiles and bark paintings from Australia.City collectionZagreb City MuseumOpati±ka ulica 20 (01 48 51361/www.mdc.hr/mgz). Open 10am-6pmTue-Fri; 10am-10pm Thu; 10am-2pmSat,Sun Admission 20kn.Within the 17th-century Convent of the Clares,a display of 4,500 items from a vast permanentcollection traces the city’s history fromprehistoric times. Themed sections includerecent Iron Age discoveries, walk-throughreconstructions of 19th-century Ilica shops andstudy rooms of famous Crotian artists. Propagandaposters act as a finale. Many exhibitsare interactive and documented in English.Old mastersMimara MuseumRooseveltov trg 5 (01 48 28 100). Open10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat; 10am-7pmThur; 10am-2pm Sun. Admission 20kn.Zagreb’s most impressive art collection is setover three floors of an equally impressive neoclassicaledifice. The top floor contains worksby Rubens, Rembrandt and Raphael, whileAncient Greek, Roman and Venetian itemsdominate the displays lower down, not tomention the Oriental carpets and medievalicons. The collection is vast – only a third ison display at any given time.Furniture & sculptureMuseum of Arts & CraftsTrg mar∫ala Tita 3 (01 48 82111/www.muo.hr). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Sat; 10am-10pm Thu; 10am-2pm SunAdmission 20kn.Inside this grand palace are 160,000 items,3,000 on permanent display, presented in aseries of halls around a galleried atrium. Itemsdate from the 14th century onwards; furniture,instruments, clocks and ceramics dominate.European legacyStrossmayer’s Galleryof Old MastersTrg N√ Zrinskog 11 (01 48 95 117/www.mdc.hr/strossmayer). Open 10am-1pm, 5-7pm Tue; 10am-1pm Wed-Sun.Admission 10kn. No credit cards.Built for Bishop Strossmayer’s collection,this gallery showcases works from the14th to the 19th centuries. Only 256 are ondisplay, in ten rooms. Italians, includingTintoretto, occupy the first six, followedby Flemish (Brueghel) and German (Dürer)painters in the next three. French andSpanish (El Greco, Delacroix) complete themagnificent collection.Zagreb’s HighgateToo few visitors to Zagreb make it out to the Mirogoj cemetery, astunningly handsome home for the city’s elite. Featuring long arcadesand tree-lined walks, this contemplative resting place a No.106 busjourney from Kaptol was the creation of architect Herman Bollé, theGerman also responsible for many of Zagreb’s key buildings. When itopened in 1876, Mirogoj was divided but not separated into four mainsections reflecting the city’s then religious mix: Catholic; Orthodox;Protestant and Jewish. The first resident was a Jew. Since then,graves many of remarkable finery have been placed all over. IvanMe∫trovi© and Ivan Rendi©, the county’s most renowned sculptors ofthe 20th century, were responsible for some of them Mirogoj is anartistic treasure in its own right. Almost every famous Croatian isburied here, including first president Franjo Tudjman, writer Tin Ujevi©and politician Stjepan Radi©, shot in the first Yugoslav parliamentin the 1920s. Many of the streets around Zagreb have been namedafter figures who now rest here. The grave of basketball legend Dra∆enPetrovi©, who died in a car accident at 28, is one of the most visitedsites. Mirogoj comes into its own on All Saints’ Day (1 November),when Croatian families visit loved ones, thousands of flickeringcandles providing a moving experience. Originally at the edge ofthe city, Mirogoj has since been reached and passed by housingdevelopments, but retains a sense of space and calm. The walkback downhill to town provides further leafy relaxation.Boy’s ownTechnical MuseumSavska 18 (01 48 44 050/www.mdc.hr/tehnicki). Open 9am-5pm Tue-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat, Sun. Admission collection 10kn;planetarium 10kn; tram rides free.A cornucopia of weird and wacky forms oftransport is the real attraction here: 19thcenturyfire engines; a Dubrovnik city tramfrom1912;a1930sdivingsuitandaWorldWarII Italian submarine you can climb into. Thesection dedicated to Nikola Tesla illustratesjust how far ahead of his time this turn-of-thecenturySerbian inventor was. On Sundays at9.30am, the museum’s 1924 tram does a citytourtotheMaksimirParkandback.Prehistory & antiquityArchaoelogical MuseumZrinjevac 19 (01 48 73 101/www.amz.hr).Open 10am-5pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Thu;10am-1pm Sat,Sun Admission 20kn.The three floors of treasures contained inthis grand institution date from AncientEgypt onwards. Highlights here include theVu±edol Dove, a 4,000-year-old ceramicvessel found near Vukovar and a symbol ofpeace in recent times, a mummy withEtruscan inscriptions and an impressivedisplay of coins through the ages. TheBronze, Copper and Iron Age itemsdiscovered around northern Croatia arealso worthy of attention.16 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 17

RestaurantsMeal times can be busy inZagreb. Neighbourhoodplaces offering cheaplunches, gableci, pizzerias, fullblownrestaurants leaning towardspork, veal and other grilled andbreaded delights, trendier and globalfusion venues around Kaptol, allform a changing gastronomic picturein Croatia’s capital. You canalso taste specialities from Zagorjeto Dalmatia, usually in the traditionalsurroundings of a konoba, or tavern.Prices there are reasonable, thefeel homely. One steadfast localfavourite is ∫trukli, little dough raviolifilled with cottage cheese, sometimescovered in breadcrumbs. Ifyou only have time for one meal intown, enjoy it at Marcellino,Ma∫klin i Lata or Bistro Apetit.Kerempuh uses ingredients fromthe city’s main market, the Dolac. Toshop for fruit, cheese, bread and otherproduce there, see pp9-11Market day.Quality – at a priceMarcellinoJurjevska 71 (01 46 77 111). Open Sept-Julynoon-11pm Mon-Sat. Credit MC, V.For interesting, ambitious internationalfare, head here, a contemporary, 45-seaterrestaurant overlooking a mature wood,illuminated at night. Try and get a windowseat. Owner and head chef Mario overseeseach ordered, symmetrical and delicateplate, training an army of sous chefs as hegoes. Such care doesn’t come cheap; a mealfor two with wine will cost you around1,000kn, a price even by London standards.But if you want fillet of beef with rocket,parmesan and truffles, or venison withblueberries, chestnuts, pears and wine, orprawns with orange juice and olive oil, in amemorable setting, you won’t bedisappointed. This is a place to impress, toshare your meal with embassy staff andlocal celebrities.RusticBaltazarNova Ves 4 (01 46 66 808). Open noonmidnightMon-Sat. Credit DC, MC, V.In a little Kaptol courtyard, this pretty terracerestaurant attracts an upmarket clientele withits superb traditional dishes and regionalmeals from Zagorje and Slavonia. Duck andturkey are particular favourites. Service andpresentation are impeccable, allowing the billto creep up to 300kn a head with wine.Fabulous on a summer evening.NoceLocal favourites∞ihoPavla Hatza 15 (01 481 70 60). Open8am-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-midnight Sun.Credit MC, V.A homely venue between the main squareand the station. Upstairs is comfortable butdownstairs is where regulars prefer. Intraditional Dalmatian surroundings, try oneof 15 varieties of fish, and a dozen types ofrakija, brandy made with nuts or fruit.Stari FijakerMe∫nicka 6 (01 48 33 829). Open 7am-11pmMon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. Credit DC, MC, V.The Old Coach has been a restaurant for acentury or more, hence the wonderful picturesof old Zagreb. Half-bar, half-restaurant, thelatter offers traditional dishes, many fromZagorje, some 50 in all. The waiter will bedelighted to talk you through the chef’srecommendations and whatever you choosewon’t cost more than 70kn, tops – also theprice of a litre of wine. Zagorski soup (20kn)of potatoes and ham is a must, provided youcome with an appetite – portions are large.Tip TopGunduli©eva 18 (01 48 30 349). Open7am-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit DC, MC, V.‘Blato’ is an authentically retro spot run bypeople from Kor±ula. Little has changed heresince Tin Ujevi© and his literary gang wereregulars. Daily specials include octopusgoulash (45kn) but there’s red mullet, sole orsea bass. Plenty of Kor±ula wines.ContemporaryBistro ApetitJurjevska 65A (01 46 77 335). Open 9ammidnightTue-Sun. Credit DC, MC, V.Feeling cautious, you order from a menu fullof innuendo (‘The most beautiful moment’,‘The happy end’), but don’t worry. Service,food and wine here are impressive,standards imposed by Austrian chef-ownerChristian Cabalier, previously of Vienna’sCantinetta Antinori. At 60kn-70kn a starterand 90kn-120kn a main, Apetit is not cheapbut many dishes are worth it. The swordfishcarpaccio with black lentils and rocket is afine starter; the pumpkin gnocchi slightlyless so, a little bit like comfort food. The tunasteak and horseradish mash are a weird andwonderful combination, part sushi, partSunday lunch. The tuna is moist, the wasabimash melts on the tongue with just the rightamount of bite. Apetit lacks the charm of areal bistro but its terrace allows for calmoutside the city bustle. Add a good selectionof well priced Croatian, Slovenian andItalian wines and you have one of the bestdining experiences in town.MeatMitnica∞rnomerec 37 (01 37 78 640). Open10am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-11pm Sun.Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.With two venues in town, the other at MRojca 28, these are Zagreb’s two most popularspots for carnivores. Some 15 grilled optionsfeature many Balkan favourites, with raritiesincluding blood sausage and lamb’sintestines. Prices are reasonable to the pointof cheap, and a friendly waiter is happy tomake recommendations that day. It’s usuallyand justifiably packed with locals.SofraI gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27 (01 61 31026). Open 10am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.The best Bosnian restaurant in town is wortha taxi ride to its discreet location. Grilledmeats are the speciality here – pljeskavicaand ©evapi, served with traditional bread –although the 90kn plate for two might be theway to go. Dishes are designed to be sharedand enjoyed slowly. Allow two hours.Reservations recommended.MediterraneanNoceKamenita 5 (01 485 13 43). Open 10ammidnightMon-Thur; 10am-1am Fri, Sat;10am-6pm Sun. Credit MC, V.A recent change of name has done little toalter the quality of the fresh, Italianinfluencedfare on offer here. By the candlelitshrine at Kamenita, this venue attracts adiscerning clientele without setting highprices. A weekly-changing menu is small andwell conceived, with one fish, one meat andone meat-free choice in the 80kn range as amain. Brunches also served. A superb choiceof world wines too.OrganicIvica i MaricaTkal±i©eva 70 (01 48 28 999). Open noon-11pm Tue-Sun. Bakery 9am-11pm daily.Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.Themed ‘Hansel and Gretel’ serves nationalstaples with no preservatives, artificialcolouring or GM ingredients. Brown sugarreplaces the white type, even in the ice-cream.The fish, though, is genuine, and great, codand tuna available on Fridays. All bread,noodles and pastries are made here. Organicsalads also available.Box freshKerempuhKaptol 3 (01 48 19 000/www.kerempuh.hr).Open 9am-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat. CreditAmEx, DC, MC, V.The Kerempuh sources from the main marketit overlooks. Its reputation was establishedby star chef Ana Ugarkovi©; staff still rush tothe market first thing to find fresh ingredientsfor the daily changing menu. This is postedup on the restaurant’s website so that themembership of young professionals canchoose before they arrive.On the hoofTheclassicsnackhereisburek,aflakypastryoftenfilledwithcheese.Anotherregionalspecialityis±evap±i©i,meatballsservedinbreadand,ifsorequested,agarnishofthepaprikarelishAjvar.Sausagesand,inwinter,mulledwineandchestnuts,areavailableatcutesyhutssetuparoundthecitycentre.Everyone’sfavouritelate-nightsandwichbarisPinguin(NikoleTesle7,014814446;open9am-2amdaily),convenientlylocatedrightnexttotheBP jazzclub(seep23).There’sanotherlate-nightsnackhatchroundthecornerfrom theCathedralendofthemainsquare.SeafoodKor±ulaTeslina 17 (01 48 72 159). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 10am-4pm Sun. CreditAmEx, DC, MC, V.As traditional as it gets, waistcoated staffand all, this Dalmatian fish restaurant hasbeen here for years, long before Zagreb’sfashionable bar quarter set up around it. Thekitchen turns out high-quality versions ofAdriatic seafood standards, the specialityhere being a succulent baked octopus. Froman extensive menu you will also findbreaded frog’s legs, scallops and John Doryat reasonable prices. Standard Dalmatiandesserts and regional wines too.Ma∫klin i LataAndrije Hebranga 11A (01 48 18 273/www.masklinilata.hr). Open noon-11pmMon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.This wine-cellar/restaurant offers a taste ofthe sea. Dishes with a fish or seafood basecombine with home-made pasta, truffles orturned into great stews. The meat, cheese anddesserts are of similar quality.Ribarski BrevijarKaptol 27 (01 48 29 999/www.ribarskibrevijar.hr).Open noon-1am Mon-Sat.Credit DC, MC, V.The former Murter restaurant is run by thefamous Holjevac family. It provides loyaldining regulars with the freshest fish in town,simply prepared and garnished. Decentselection of wines too.Kerempuh18 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 19

Cafés&Barsew bars are being set up allover Zagreb, along Ilica, downNSavska in the business quarterand especially in a hub around loungebarcentral, Preradovi©ev trg, by theflower market. The best bar crawlremains Tkal±i©eva, the atmospheric,pedestrianised street behind the mainmarket (see pic right). Cica stands outwhile Melin gets a young, party crowd.Coffee is enjoyed on downtownterrace cafés (the post-shoppingSaturday-morning drink is known asspica) or smaller, contemporary spotssuch as Eli’s Caffè. Beer is anothertradition – places such as PivnicaMedvidgrad (Savska 56) brew theirown while the Movie Pub can offer adozen types on tap. Zagreb also excelsin music bars, where the soundtrack(indie, punk, rap) brings in a discerningclientele. Dobar Zvuk, Limb andSpunk can be relied upon to providea few indie treats.ArtySedmicaKa±i©eva 7A (01 48 46 689). Open 8amlatedaily.This cult bar is found under a small beer signabove a doorway. Inside, boho and arty regularsgather on a wrought-iron mezzanine opposite abar counter of Fischer’s and Erdinger taps. Inbetween, drinkers prop up a spot at a long, thinmarble table. Sedmica is a meeting place forthose in the creative arts, an obviousrendezvous before a trendy private view.LiteraryEli’s CaffèIlica 63 (091 527 9990 mobile/www.eliscaffe.com). Open 8am-9pm Mon-Sat;9am-3pm Sun.A busy, contemporary spot encourages aslow read and idle chatter thanks to some 30varieties of coffee served by an able stafftrained in Trieste. The location is handy too,within easy reach of the Sunday-morningantique market on Britanski trg.BooksaMarti©eva 14D (01 46 16 124/www.booksa.hr). Open 9am-11pm Tue-Sun.Zagreb’s literary club doubles up as analcohol-free café, a collective run by a trio ofenthusiastic women. The soundtrack isreliably solid (Belle and Sebastian, theDecembrists), the atmosphere laid-back andregular events here include readings, low-keyconcerts and exhibitions. A modestmembership contribution is required, as wellas 15-minute tram journey from the mainsquare but both are worth it.FunkyCica BarTkal±i©eva 18 (no phone). Open 9.30am-11pm daily.Cica is hands down the finest venue on thecafé-lined strip of Tkal±i©eva – there’s even acase for awarding it ‘best bar in town’ status.Purists would point to its diminished new lookwithout the flea-market furniture and waxlyrical about legendary drinking sessions herein reasonably recent times. The point is thatthe drinks remain the same attractive rangeof home-made spirits – blueberry, honey, nut,mixed herbs, anis and figs – as does thebohemian clientele enjoying them. Not fornothing does the sign say ‘CaffeteriaGrapperia Galleria’ outside – although thehalf-erased one on the wall, ‘Zlatarn-’, a kindof ‘Trespassers Wil’, exudes something of theramshackle nature of the locality. OccasionalDJ sessions and regular hedonism are the(dis)order of the day – it’s heartening to knowthat there is something popular in Zagreb thatisn’t glitzy or imported.The kids are alrightDobar ZvukGajeva 18 (01 48 72 222). Open noon-11pm Mon-Sat.Set in an old hi-fi store, this superior musicbar is a lively rendezvous for spiky-hairedlocals. It’s ideal for a Bambi Molesters tuneor Dead Kennedys fave. Pub-like in style –old Guinness ads, bare brickwork – ‘GoodSound’ may be guitar driven but lacks themale overtones of other music bars in town.BooksaYaxxBeer heavenHop DevilBranimirov 29 (01 387 6343). Open noonmidnightdaily.This Belgian bar has an attractive buzzdespite its setting in a shopping mall near thetrain station. The drinks menu has acomprehensive range of bottled varieties –fruity, colourful, malty – from the Benelux.Pricy by Zagreb standards but popular.Old schoolMK BarRadi©eva 7 (no phone). Open 7am-11pmMon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun.Known by all as Krolo, after the writerMiroslav Krle∆a born and commemoratedhere, this sturdy wooden bar five minutesfrom the main square gives a flavour of pre-1991 Zagreb. An older clientele in trilbiesreligiously scan the day’s newspaper while ayounger regulars talk with reverential quietaround the circular seating. Timeless is theword you’re looking for.SportsYaxxPavla Hatza 16 (01 48 39 020/www.yaxx.hr). Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat;11am-11pm Sun.This is the way a good sports bar should be– bright, spacious interior, proper drinksand unobtrusive TVs. Not everyone is hereto see the big game but it’s one of the bestplaces to watch it in town and staff will dotheir best to meet the most obscure request.The bar, like the restaurant also here, is runby Olympic handball legend Vlado Sola,who hasn’t shied away from adorning theentrance area with artefacts relating tohimself, his team-mates and compatriotCroatian Olympians.CocktailsHemingway Lounge BarTrg Mar∫ala Tita (www.hemingway.hr).Open 7am-3am daily.Hemingway is a chain of upmarket cocktailbars with branches in Zagreb. This one is themost popular, mainly because of its locationopposite the National Theatre. Look out fororiginal mixes shaken with aplomb atmixology contests around the world. Insummer pavement tables pack with thepretty set by day, with Mai Tais and LongIsland Ice Teas sipped at night. The classiestbranch at Tu∫kanac in leafy Gradec isusually hired out for private parties.MaraschinoMargaretska 1 (01 48 12 612). Open 8am-1am Mon-Sat; 9am-1am Sun.Named after the sweet cherry liqueur fromZadar, Maraska, this two-floor spot intrendy bar central is packed to the rafters inthe evenings, but a low-key place to try a fewlocal tipples by day. Its brown interiordecked out in old Maraska posters, it offersMaraska-infused coffee or hot chocolate,long drinks, and Malvazija and Babi© wines.Expect DJ sessions at weekends.Young at heartApartmanPreradovi©eva 7 (01 48 72 168). Open9am-midnight Mon-Wed, Sun; 9am-1amThur-Sat.On the corner with Teslina, Apartman is afunky spot near the flower market.Incongruously, it was the HQ of the localscouts’ association, marked by a plaque andan outdoor scene on one wall. Spread over thefirst floor, it attracts a young clientele whointertwine on big bright cushions by day. Bynight, DJs occasionally take over.MelinTkal±i©eva 47 (01 48 28 966). Open 9am-1am daily.The spirit of old Tkal±i©eva, Melin standsbehind a garden and playground, scruffy butwith bags of character. The dark interior isgrungy, the air thick with smoke and themusic deafening. At weekends drunkenteenagers and older alternative types spill outon to the beer terrace – it can feel like afestival. If it gets too much, there’s the moresedate Portal bar alongside.ThemeMovie PubSavska 141 (01 60 55 045/www.the-moviepub.com).Open 7am-2am Mon-Wed; 7am-3am Thur; 7am-4am Fri, Sat; 6pm-2am Sun.Expats are not spoiled for choice in Zagreb.Overpriced, faux pubs there might be, but notmany of them, and none has this kind ofatmosphere. The Movie Pub is large enoughand authentic enough to attract custom fromhome and abroad, the drink prices are notoutrageous (this is the business quarter by theSava, after all), the range of beers is enticingand the regular events staged here a lot of fun.Beers include Leffe, Tuborg, Bellevue Kriekand popular Benelux brews; entertainment isin the form of live music and karaoke. Alltakes place in predictably celluloid-themedsurroundings, although many of the photostaken at international film festivals areoriginal. There is a restaurant too andadjacent hotel rooms should the need arise.Orient ExpressTeslina 10 (01 48 10 548). Open 9am-11pm daily.Set in the narrow shape of a train carriage,this tasteful recreation of the famous vehicleis decked out with a wonderful series ofblack-and-white photographs of itsglamorous passengers in its heyday. Frenchlanguagesignage, shiny copper and a bottlegreencolour scheme add to the illusion. Anincongruous display of tennis items pointstowards the bar’s management. No themeddrinks but a wide range of spirits.Sedmica20 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 21

Nightlifeoracityofitssize,ZagrebhasalwayspunchedaboveitsweightF asfaraslivemusicandnightlifeareconcerned.Mostvenuesdemandentryof30kn-60knandfewhavedresscodes.TheclubsceneissetaroundLakeJarun–Aquariusisthemostestablishedvenue,Gallerydemandssmartwear.Seebox.Insummer,thescenemovestoNovaljaonPag,Croatia’sIbiza.Banalturbofolk,amixoffolkandelectropop,ispopular–youcan’tavoidit.Ontheplusside,livemusicthrives.Aswellasaregularinfluxofinternationalartistsofallpersuasions,Zagrebcannowaccommodatejazzactsattwodecentdowntownvenues:theBP ClubandtheJazz Club.LookoutforpostersalongIlica,detailsonmuzika.hrorflyersinbarssuchasSedmicaandDobar Zvuk.Zagreb also excels in the music bar,hangouts with no door fee, perhaps a DJ,but where sounds count. The best placesincludeSpunk andLimb.In Autumn the team behind Porat,arguably Croatia’s best club on theAdriatic coast (dancing in olive groves3ms from the sea), will open a new muchanticipated 300-500 capacity venue onthe edge of the city. Exact details stillTBC; ask about.NostalgiaJabukaJabukovac 28 (01 48 34 397). Open 9pm-2am Fri, Sat.Everyone knows the Apple, where ageneration of thirty- and fortysomethingsdanced and found romance a decade andmore ago. This Tu∫kanac club still offers thesounds of the 1980s in its modest dance room,as older revellers gather around the crowdedbar and back courtyard.GayGlobalPavla Hatza 14 (01 48 14 878/www.globalclubzg.hr). Open 8pm-4am Wed-Sat.The first gay club in Zagreb attracts a mixedcrowd. It’s a hopping spot, with three bars,a VIP lounge, a dancefloor and a darkroom.Loud & liveBoogalooOTV Dom, Vukovarska 68 (01 63 13 021/www.boogaloo.hr). Open Call for details.This DJ club and live venue occupies the OTVDom building on Vukovarska, scene ofseminal shows by Laibach and EinstürzendeNeubauten in the early 1980s.KSETUnska 3 (01 61 29 999/www.kset.org).Open 8-11.45pm Mon-Fri; 9pm-3am Sat.For an intimate, adventurously programmedvenue, head straight for KSET. A club builtfor 400 people, since 1999 KSET has stagedamericana, avant-jazz, punk and lots of otherstylistically diverse artists. Most weekends,the speakers are given over to electronicmusic, often drum ’n’ bass. It’s a friendlyatmosphere, attracting an easygoing crowdenjoying cheap drinks.Mo±varaTrnjanski nasip (01 60 55 599/www.mochvara.hr). Tram 13 to Lisinski. Open7.45pm-1am Mon-Thur, Sun; 7.45pm-4amFri, Sat.The Swamp is where young alternativesgather for underground fun. Set by the banksof the Sava, Mo±vara holds 700 people in animaginatively muralled abandoned factory.Shows are completely random: punk, metal,world music, plus DJ nights at least monthly.Art-rock types haunt the bar. Stop press:future in doubt. See www.urk.hr for info.KSETTvornicaSubi©eva 2 (01 46 5 5 007/www.tvornicakulture.hr).Trams 1 & 17 to Subi©eva.Open Café 8.30am-10pm daily. Club 10pm-4am daily.Ideal location for live music, DJs and eventheatre performances. Run by the figureresponsible for the legendary Kulu∫i© of the1990s, the Factory is the best mid-sized venuein town, holding 1,500 people.Lake JarunAquariusAleja Matije Ljubeka (01 36 40 231/www.aquarius.hr). Open Café 9am-9pmdaily. Club 10pm-6am daily.Zagreb’s most established club, a live venueand DJ spot of international standard withsound system to match. See box.BestJarunska cesta 5 (01 30 11 943/www.thebest.hr). Open 10pm-7am Fri, Sat.A megaclub, mainstream and glitzy. See box.GalleryMatije Ljubeka (091 113 32 21 mobile).Open 10am-1am Mon-Wed, Sun; 10am-4amThur-Sat.Jarun branch of the prominent Hacienda clubon the Adriatic coast. See box.PiranhaJarunska jezero (091 462 92 98 mobile).Open 11am-midnight Mon, Tue, Sun;11am-1am Thur; 11am-4am Wed, Fri, Sat.Daytime, post-work and post-midnightlounge bar and dance club. See box.JazzBP ClubTeslina 7 (01 48 14 444/www.bpclub.hr).Open 10.30am-1.45am Mon-Sat; 5.30pm-1.45am Sun.BP is Zagreb’s most prestigious jazz clubright in the centre of town. Run by Croatia’smost important jazz musician, vibraphonistBo∫ko Petrovi©, this intimate basement islined with pictures of the famous exponents(Art Farmer, Joe Pass, Ronnie Scott) whohave played on its tiny stage in the corner. Ithas a superb choice of wines, beers and spiritstoo. It stages two annual festivals: SpringtimeJazz Fever in late March and Hrvatski JazzSabor in early October.Jazz ClubGunduli©eva 11 (091 664 94 98 mobile).Open 8pm-1am daily.Newcomer challenging BP Club’s local jazzclub hegemony with a nightly agenda of livesounds. In a handy downtown cellar location,the Jazz Club stages mainly local acts for aloyal gang of young regulars, who pack thisintimate venue and create an inclusive,enjoyable ambience, whatever your musicaltastes. Modest admission fee.Music barsLimbPlitvi±ka 16 (01 61 71 683). Tram 13 toMiramarska. Open 9am-1am Mon-Sat.Formerly the spot for music fans –underground, understated and right by KSETit was many a locals favourite hangout. Somesay it's lost its edge but you’ll still find olderboho types in three colourful rooms and aglass-enclosed terrace with a tree in themiddle. Owner Selma offers Beaujolis in theautumn and Tex-Mex tunes all year round.SpunkHrvatske bratske zajednice (01 61 51 528).Tram 13 to Lisinki. Open 7am – midnightMon-Wed; 7am – 3am Thur-Sat; 6pm –midnight Sun.A student coffee bar by day; a chaotic garagerock bar by night. DJs, occasional live musicand heavy drinking. Spunk is full of punk andindie types; the comic-book murals of IgorHofbauer, artist at the nearby Mo±vara clubprovide the perfect backdrop. A good latenight option if you don't fancy a full on club.Jarun by nightIf Zagreb has a clubbing hub, then it’s set around a peaceful, leafyretreat of lakeside recreation: Jarun. Landscaped for the 1987 WorldStudent Games, the Jarun of joggers, rowers and young familiesbecomes one of lovers, clubbers and partygoers after dark. Thewaterside lounge bars turn into DJ haunts, while three key large-scalenightclubs come into their own: Aquarius; Best and Gallery.Aquarius is the daddy of them all, the pioneer for quality clubbing inZagreb since 1992. With a capacity of 1,300 over two floors, Aquariuscan accommodate both DJs (particularly the fresh local sounds ofKontrapunkt) and live bands. Hip hop and R&B dominate at weekends.Best is best described as a megaclub, mainstream and glitzy, withhouse, trance and techno pulling in the crowds. Gallery comes closestto a superclub, this Zagreb branch of the renowned Hacienda club onthe Adriatic coast bringing in big-name international DJs to spin in theCroatian capital. A tight control is kept on admission numbers, a dresscode (no trainers) is strictly adhered to but once you’re in, Gallery canbe a whole bunch of fun. Of the daytime bars, Piranha has the bestreputation and after-dark music programme. The minimalist Macao(01 30 90 253) and the party-oriented Londoner (091 262 00 63mobile) also get busy in summer, the latter set on one of the lake’s sixislands, Vesla±ki. Others host music festivals, such as VIP Inmusic(www.vipinmusicfestival.com) to take place on 3 and 4 June 2008 withNick Cave & the Bad Seeds headlining. See p5. Reaching Jarun by tramis an easy hop on the No.17 from the main square, while getting back totown should cost under 80kn by taxi. See listings.GlitzRitz ClubPetrinjska 4 (099 660 71 82 mobile). Openfrom 10pm daily.This tastefully conceived post-work hangoutoffers cabaret and jazz sounds to a classyclientele. Open until the early hours (dependingon numbers), Ritz is housed in the former, farseedier club of the same name. This recentlyopened renovation should set the standards asfar as the high end of the market is concerned.AquariusTrainspotterFanatikRibnjak 26 (no phone) Open 8pm-4amTue-Sat.This compact, smoky basement frequentedby a twentysomething music-savvy audienceattracts good local, regional and sometimesinternational DJs. Expect deep house tominimalist. There are no dancers in cages thisis a serious, chin-stroking, trainspotter'schoice. Surprisingly friendly for all that.22 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 23

Hotelshe hotel stock in Zagreb hasimproved considerably of late.TLuxury and high-end businesslodgings are provided by the fabulousRegent Esplanade as well as thehigh-profile Sheraton Zagreb, whilecentral, mid-range alternatives includethe Astoria and the Laguna. A recentphenomenon has been the opening of ahandful of hotels near the airport and inthe business quarter, thus underliningZagreb’s role as an global conferencecentre. These include the Aristos andthe Stella – expect more in 2008.AlthoughprivateaccommodationinZagrebisnotasprevalentasontheDalmationcoasttherearemanyoptions.The Zagreb Tourist Board(http://www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr) hasa list of registered options. Prices tendto be significantly cheaper, particularlyif you’re staying longer than a few days,and generally include bedding and towels,plus cleaning and laundry weekly.Also a good way to meet the locals.LuxuryRegent EsplanadeMihanovi©eva 1 (01 45 66 021/fax 01 45 66050/www.regenthotels.com). Rates Mon-Thur€200-€215 double; Fri-Sun €154 double; €20breakfast. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.In a class of its own. Fabulous luxury andtop-notch service are the name of the gameat this art-nouveau gem beside the main trainstation. Since it opened between the wars toRegent Esplanadecater to travellers on the Orient Express, theRegent Esplanade has accommodatedElizabeth Taylor, Queen Elizabeth II, OrsonWelles and Louis Armstrong. After acomplete refurbishment, it reopened in 2004as the Regent Hotels chain’s first in Europe.The lobby is a veneered wonder, clocks overthe door showing the time in six world cities.Stylish guestrooms range in size andconfiguration, but come with heated floors,goose-down bedding, mist-free mirrors andfancy toiletries in the marble bathrooms. Thechef at Zinfandel’s restaurant conjures upmodern Med cuisine, while Le Bistro does thebest ∫trukli in town. There’s a terrace caféand cocktail bar, the Esplanade 1925, wherefilms are shown in the summer, a casino andfitness club. The sauna comes into its ownfor the relaxation and romance packages,with hot-stone and chocolate massages, andone deal in which the butler draws your bath.ChicArcotel AllegraBranimirova 29 (01 46 96 000/fax 01 46 96096/www.arcotel.at). Rates €85-€160 double;€14 breakfast. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.Zagreb’s first designer hotel, convenientlylocated near the train station, is a chic spotwith a Med theme. The marble-clad lobbygives access to the Radicchio restaurant whilethe on-site Joe’s Bar hosts regular Latinonights. The 151 uncluttered rooms come withgood soundproofing, pine furniture, funkyfabrics with portraits of celebrities (Kahlo,Picasso and Kafka) and DVD players. Lookout for the world map, with a red dot markingZagreb, on the blue carpets in hallways androoms, and constellations on lift ceilings. Thetop floor has a sauna and gym, and greatrooftop views.HandyBest Western Hotel AstoriaPetrinjska 71 (01 48 08 900/910/fax 01 4817 053/www.bestwestern.com). Rates €125-€150 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.Best Western bought this 1932 hotel betweenthe train station and the main square and, aftera floor-to-ceiling makeover, unveiled it as oneof its premier properties. A lobby of woodpanelling, plush red armchairs and marblefloors leads to red-carpeted hallways lined byreplicas of Croatian masterpieces. The roomsrange from smallish twins and queens to morespacious executives and suites equipped withwindow-paned sliding doors. The decorfeatures a relaxing palette of beiges, yellowsand creams and contemporary paintings.Westin ZagrebKrsnjavoga 1 (tel/fax 01 48 92 000/www.westin.com). Rates from €155 double.Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.The city-centre Westin offers relaxation andbusiness convenience. It has a contemporaryfeel, with convivial bedrooms and comfortablebeds, while the bathrooms are spacious andwell equipped. The in-house Diana bar is oneof the best of its kind in town, the ideal spot tofinish a long day’s work or start the evening.Main squareHotel DubrovnikGajeva 1 (01 48 63 500/501/fax 01 48 63506/www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr). Rates €166-€180 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.Watch Zagreb’s daily action unroll from yourwindow at this four-star right off the mainsquare. The complex comprises two six-storeybuildings. The older, from 1929, has abeautifully spruced-up façade; the younger isa 1980s glass extravaganza. Inside the pair, 258en-suite rooms come in different shapes andsizes, but all boast unfussy decor with OldWorld flair, dark wood furniture and modemconnections. Rooms in the new part come withsmaller windows, so book one facing the squarein the old building – preferably a corner. Thecafé downstairs is a local landmark.AirportHotel AristosCebini 33 (01 66 95 900/fax 01 66 95902/www.hotel-aristos.hr). Rates E140-E200 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.In the Buzin Business Park near the aiport,this stylish four-star hotel of 70 rooms andseven suites is ideal for the traveller arrivingon expenses. Two congress halls, a modem inevery room and the Gallant restaurant, all ishere to smooth the process of trade andtransaction. Pets also welcome.Hotel StellaNadinska 27 (01 53 93 600/fax 01 53 93603/www.hotel-stella.hr). Rates from E62double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.Opened in late 2007, the contemporary Stellais another newbie within easy reach ofZagreb aiport. A comfortable three-star with43 rooms, it appears on many generic hotelbookingwebsites, thus attracting regularinternational traffic.ClassicHotel PalaceTrg JJ Strossmayera 10 (01 48 14 611/fax01 48 11 357/www.palace.hr). Rates €130-€160 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.This rather grand Secessionist mansion, theSchlessinger Palace, houses Zagreb’s firsthotel, opened in 1907. A century later, it’s stillone of the city’s most elegant properties,catering to the moneyed and the famous. All123 rooms, three suites and two semi-suitesare a mixture of art-nouveau decor andcontemporary amenities: sturdy dark woodfurniture, huge windows, a yellow-and-bluecolour theme, original paintings and spaciousbathrooms with tubs. For minimum noiseand the best views of Sljeme in the distance,book a courtyard-facing room.CosyPansion JägerhornIlica 14 (01 48 33 877/30 161/fax 01 4833 573/www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr).Rates €100-€105 double. Credit AmEx,DC, MC, V.For some peace and quiet within a familyatmosphere, stay at this intimate little spot ina commercial passage at the main-square endof Ilica. Eight smallish and clean doubles fillthe top floor of a heritage building under theleafy Upper Town. These rooms havecapacious bathrooms, sloping walls andstandard trimmings. The two suites have aseparate living room and a kitchenette.ConferenceSheraton Zagreb HotelKneza Borne 2 (01 45 53 535/fax 01 45 53035/www.sheraton.com). Rates €130-€190double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.International hub and conference host. TheFour Points branch in the business quarter isthe shiny blue-glass tower you see for milesaround (Four Points Panorama, trg Sportova9, 01 36 58 333, fax 01 30 92 657). See box.BudgetHotel LagunaKranj±evi©eva 29 (01 30 47 000/fax 01 3047 077/www.hotel-laguna.hr). Tram 12 toTehni±ki muzej. Rates €70 single; €86double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.For all its design modesty c1975, this threestaris a handy little option three stops on theNo.9 tram from the main station. Note thatrates for a room compare favourably withthose at a hostel or student centre. TheLaguna also has a gym, sauna and internet.Sheraton ZagrebThe Grand Ballroom of the SheratonZagreb served as an appropriatelydignified setting for incoming England coach Fabio Capello, hisCroatian counterpart Slaven Bili© and three other nationalmanagers to meet and arrange the timetable for the upcomingqualifying group for the World Cup 2010. If it is good enough forVladimir Putin and other world leaders, then it is good enough forone of world football’s freshest rivalries. After nearly seven hoursof negotiations, agreement was reached – England will come toZagreb again this September. Meanwhile guests would haveenjoyed the high-end facilities in one of Croatia’s leadingconference hotels (there are 17 meeting rooms) – a heated indoorpool, a gym, sauna and solarium. All 306 rooms are of a highinternational standard, with marble bathrooms, and dining can beenjoyed at the Fontana and King Tomislav restaurants. See listing.Hotel Dubrovnik24 TIME OUT ZagrebTIME OUT Zagreb 25

DirectoryGetting there& aroundBy airDirect flights to Zagreb from the UK are justover two hours, with Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr) and low-cost Wizz Air(www.wizzair.com).OverlandTo enter Croatia by car you need a validdriving licence with a photograph, vehicleregistration documents and insurancedocuments (including a Green Card). Car hirein Croatia is expensive – about 500kn a dayfor an average family car. Drivers must beover 21 and have held their driving licencefor at least one year. Seat belts must be usedfront and rear, and using a mobile whiledriving is forbidden. No under-12s areallowed in the front seat. You must alwaysdrive with your lights on. Croatia has a zerotolerance approach to drink driving. Bus orrail links from the UK are lengthy. Fordetails, refer to www.raileurope.co.uk andwww.eurolines.com.ArrivalZagreb’s Pleso airport is 17km (10.5 miles)south-east of the city centre. Buses (30minsjourney time, 30kn) run to the bus stationevery half-hour 7am-8pm daily, then aftereach flight. A taxi should cost about 200kn.City transportTram line Nos.2 and 6 run three stops fromthe bus station to the train station, Glavnikolodvor. No.6 passes through trg banaJosipa Jela±i©a, the city’s main square andcrossing point. A tram ticket costs 8kn froma newsstand (stamp on board), 10kn fromthe driver. It is valid for 90 minutes iftravelling in one direction. A day ticket is25kn. There is also a four-line network ofnight trams. Tariffs and network maps areavailable at www.zet.hr.Buses serve outlying areas from the centre.Ticket tariffs are the same.Taxis are picked up from the bus andtrain stations, outside the main hotels andaround trg bana Josipa Jela±i©a Thestandard rate is 25kn plus 7kn perkilometre, hiked up 20 per cent 10pm-5am,on Sundays and holidays. Luggage ischarged at 5kn per piece. You can call oneon 01 66 00 671 or 970.ResourcesGay & LesbianHomosexuality is decriminalised in Croatiabut it’s only recently that gay and lesbiangroups have raised their profile. QueerZagreb (www.queerzagreb.org) organises afestival of gay art every April, and screeningsof gay films every third weekend of themonth at the Tu∫kanac cinema (Tu∫kanac 1,www.queerzagreb.org/film). For an excellentweb-based gay guide to Croatia, refer tohttp://travel.gay.hr/en.HealthBritish passport holders are entitled toreciprocal free hospital and dental treatmentin Croatia. We recommend investing in travelinsurance – in the case of an emergency, youmay need to go private.InternetThe Sublink Internet Centar (Teslina 12,01 48 11 329, www.sublink.hr; open 9am-10pm Mon-Sat; 3-10pm Sun) is cheap andconvenient. Useful Croatian websites includewww.croatia.hr, www.visit-croatia.co.uk andwww.zagreb.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr.MoneyThe Croatian kuna (kn) comes in notes of 5,10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1,000kn.Currently there are nearly ten kuna to thepound – divide by ten to calculate roughprices. Currency can be exchanged in banks,post offices, tourist agencies, bureaux dechange and at some hotels. ATMs areplentiful. Most hotels, shops and restaurantsaccept credit and debit cards.TelephonesThe dialling code for Croatia is +385, Zagreb1. When calling overseas from Croatia, theprefix 00 is the international access code.Roaming mobile agreements exist withforeign companies although they can beexpensive. An alternative is to purchase alocal SIM card with a pre-paid subscription;you can usually buy a card with some starterairtime – make sure your mobile is unlocked.If you’re only in Croatia for a short while, itmakes sense to buy top-up vouchers at a costof 50kn or 100kn. For further information,consult www.vip.hr.TimeCroatia is an hour ahead of Greenwich MeanTime, with the usual seasonal changes.TippingRound up bills to the next 10kn-20kn, or byabout ten per cent. You don’t need to tip inpubs and cafés, unless you have receivedspecial service.ToiletsUniversal signs will be placed on the toiletdoors to indicate men’s and ladies’, or lookout for M (men’s) and ◊ (ladies’).Tourist informationZagreb Tourist Board Trg bana Jela±i©a11 (01 48 14 051/www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr). Open Mid June-Aug 8.30am-9pmMon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; 10am-2pm Sun.Sept-mid June 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat; 10am-2pm Sun.Free brochures, maps and the Zagreb Card(www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr). Call serviceCroatian Angels (0385 62 999 999) offersinformation in English.Croatian National Tourist OfficeCroatia House, 162-164 Fulham PalaceRoad, London W6 9ER (020 8563 7979).Useful informationBritish EmbassyIvana Lu±i©a 4 (01 60 09 100/british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk). Open 8.30am-5pm Mon-Thur; 8.30am-2pm Fri.Also refer to the Foreign Office website,www.fco.gov.uk/travel, for regularly updatedinformation related to every aspect oftravelling abroad.EmergenciesCall 92 for the police, 93 for the fire brigadeand 94 for an ambulance.PharmacyIlica 43 (01 48 48 450). Open 24hrs daily.Post officeBranimirova 4 (01 48 40 340). Open24hrs Mon-Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun.Open late and right by the station.VisasVisitors from the European Union, Canada,USA, Australia and New Zealand do not needa visa if they are staying in Croatia for lessthan 90 days.26 TIME OUT Zagreb