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Swazi CandlesSwazilandkeeping you in the loopIf there’s one thing the Swazi Kingdom has invested in well, itsgood roads. Recently-tarred circular routes have changed thestarfish appearance of the national roadmap to one that nowresembles a neat spider web of linked travel opportunities.Text Darron Raw & Carrie HamptonPhotos: istockphotos.com & Darren Raw

Self Drive – SwazilandTypical Village near Matenga Game ReserveSelf-drive travellers have never been disappointedwith the scenic touring in the Kingdom ofSwaziland. But travel decisions have often beendictated by linear roads, running north to south, orwest to east, entering here and exiting there. This gaverise to an inevitable tick-list of attractions, while thosealong less travelled routes were inevitably left out.But no longer. The recent tarring of the MR5 andMR6 roads in the north and the MR11 in the south,has added plenty of opportunity for new and creativeroute planning. Now, you can visit every region of thecountry with a series of loops that seldom require youto drive the same road twice.Kicking off your exploration of this mountainouscountry requires one major decision - whether to baseyourself centrally and explore outwards in a seriesof petal-shaped loops, or to enter at one of the 13border crossings, then zigzag back and forth takingin the distinctively different highveld, middleveld andlowveld.Taking the latter option, a popular entry post isMatsamo in the north, only 60 km from Kruger NationalPark. The Makhonjwa Mountain range rises sharply onyour right as you track south on the MR1, and formsthe boundary between Swaziland and South Africa.You are now entering Hhohho administration district, aname derived from the characteristic barking of baboonswhich greeted many travellers. At the head of the valley,the climb up to the heights of Piggs Peak is framed bythe Phophonyane and Sibetsemoya Nature Reserves. Apeaceful retreat within this mature indigenous forest isPhophonyane Falls Lodge, disturbed only by the gurgleand rush of water over countless cascades.A stop at the Peak Fine Craft Centre, gives an earlyintroduction to the many desirable Swazi handcrafts,such as Tintsaba Craft, whose award-winning sisalbaskets have evolved to include minute woven coilsincorporated into fashionable silver jewellery. Next stopis the boom-or-bust town of Piggs Peak, where moneyWNSESongimveloGameReserveBarbertonMalolotjaNature Reserve116Piggs PeakKomatiMbabaneEzulwiniV a lleyMagugaDamMhlambanyatsiManziniMlilwane 319 SanctuaryMalkernsPietRetief430 40KilometresMap by Michael BrettMkhondvoSOUTH AFRICA9Nhlangano5Great UsutuPhongoloMatsamo11SandRiverDam58PongolaHlane 3RoyalNationalPark3MkhayaGame 16ReserveSiphofaneni8Big BendSWAZILAND8Mlawula-NdzindzaUmbuluziNatureReserveLebombo MountainsLebombo MountainsMOZAMBIQUEPongolapoortDamSAinbound Aug / Sept / Oct 2008 | 15

Carrying a Calabash© Carrie Hampton/Darron Rawis won or lost on the throw of a dice or roll of awheel. With the re-opening of its founding goldmine - which has stood silent for nearly 100 years- Piggs Peak is about to enter a growth phase.The first of many route options lies between awinding descent through the Komati River Valley,or an equally scenic crossing of the Maguga Damwall. Tjolotjolo Restaurant and the new MagugaLodge provide welcome pit stops. A visit to theNsangwini Bushman paintings stretches the legsfor a while, but those with a greater yearning forexploration should pre-book a canoe & abseilsafari with adventure operator Swazi Trails.Passing the Malolotja Nature Reserve - avast hikers’ paradise - the MR1 terminates andjoins the grand MR3 highway. This road is animpressive feat of engineering, featuring theworld’s deepest road cutting. The sweepingcarriageways bypass the capital of Mbabane, thetourism hub of Ezulwini, and the commercialcentre of Manzini, removing congestion fromthese fast-developing urban areas.From Mbabane, an 80 km loop to the westaccesses Mhlambanyatsi and the quintessentiallyEnglish country-style hotel, Foresters Arms.The road then plunges down to the valley of theGreat Usutu River for a backyard entry into thedelightful Malkerns Valley. This farming areahas lots of B&Bs and a wealth of art and craftattractions, like distinctive leopard print SwaziCandles.It’s from the Manzini region that majordecisions need to be made. The tarring of theMR5 has opened up the lowveld of Swazilandwith a looping north-south route that takesin Mananga Country Club with its 9-holegolf course, as well as superb yellowfish andtilapia fishing on the Sand River Dam. Thevast Lubombo Conservancy, around whichthis route meanders, offers rewarding safarisand accommodation in the Hlane, Mlawula,Mbuluzi and Shewula nature reserves. Bushwalking, guided open vehicle tours and selfdriveoptions revealing plenty of big game, areamongst Swaziland’s best-kept secrets.Heading south from Manzini provides analternative game viewing option in MkhayaGame Reserve. This refuge for endangeredspecies has thriving populations of both blackand white rhino. Also on this route is NiselaSafaris & Reptile Park, with many of Africa’s mostdangerous snakes on show. If these creaturesmake you shudder, then grab your binoculars,pull up a chair and enjoy the birdlife.Looping to the west, the MR11 introducestravellers to the Shiselweni district, withMahamba Gorge and Grand Valley asnoteworthy scenic attractions. Mahamba GorgeLodge, a new self-catering spot perched on thebanks of the Mkhondvo River, is a good basefor rock-hopping riverbank trails. Next door isMahamba Church, the oldest Christian structurein Swaziland and the site of many interestinghistorical tales.Returning to Manzini the Great Usutu Riveris crossed, where just upstream the NkonyeniGolf Estate features a nerve-wracking 18th holeon an island in the river, whilst downstreamwhite-water rafters take on grade IV rapids ofthe Bulungapoort Gorge.Back in central Swaziland, it’s time to ponderon the compact beauty of this tiny Kingdom.Measuring just 176 km by 133 km, you mayfind there is still time to do another quick loopthrough the friendly Swazi countryside. If youwould like a professional operator to organizeeverything for you, from accommodation, tocultural encounters, to adventure activities, noone knows Swaziland better than Swazi Trails:http://www.swazitrails.co.sz16 | Aug / Sept / Oct 2008 SAinbound