The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
26 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chai-.try and shoot one for me, he told me that although he had beenfor twenty years shooting birds in these forests he had neveryet shot one, and had never even seen one except after it hadbeen caught. The bird is so exceedingly shy and wary, andruns along the ground in the densest parts of the forest soquickly, that it is impossible to get near it ; and its sobercolours and rich eye-like si~)ots, which are so ornamental whenseen in a museum, must harmonize well with the dead leavesamong which it dwells, and render it very inconspicuous. Allthe .specimens sold in Malacca are caught in snares, and myinformant, though he had shot none, had snared plenty.Tlie tiger and rhinoceros are still found here, and a fewyears ago elephants abounded, but they have lately all disappeared.We found some heaps of dung, which seemed to bethat of elephants, and some tracks of the rhinoceros, but sawnone of the animals. We, however, kept a fire up all night incase any of these creatures should visit us, and two of our mendeclared that they did one day see a rhinoceros. When our ricewas finished, and our boxes full of specimens, we returned toAyer-panas, and a few days afterwards went on to Malacca,and thence to Singapore. Mount Ophir has quite a reputationfor fevei", and all our friends were astonished at our I'ecklessnessin staying so long at its foot ; but we none of us suffered in theleast, and I shall ever look back with pleasure to my trip, asbeing my first introduction to mountain scenery in the Easterntropics.The meagreness and brevity of the sketch I have here givenof my visit to Singapore and the Malay Peninsula is due to myhaving trusted chiefly to some private letters and a note-book,w^hich were lost ; and to a paper on Malacca and Mount Ophirwhich was sent to the Royal Geographical Society, but whichwas neither read nor printed, owing to pi^ess of matter at theend of a session, and the MSS. of which cannot now be found.I the less regret this, however, as so many works have beenwritten on these parts ; and I always intended to pass lightlyover my travels in the western and better known portions ofthe ArchiiDelago, in order to devote more space to the remoterdistricts, about which hardly anything has been wi'itten in theEnglish language.CHAPTER IV.BORNEO—THE ORANG-UTAN.I ARRIVED at Sarawak on November 1st, 1854, and left it onJanuary 25th, 1856. In the interval I resided at many diflferentlocalities, and saw a good deal of the Dyak tribes as well as ofthe Bornean ^Malays. I vvas hospitably entertained by Sir
IV.] BORNEO—THE ORANG-UTAN. 27James Brooke, and lived in liis house whenever I was at thetown of Sarawak in the intervals of my journeys. But somany books liave been written about this part of Borneo sinceI was there, that I shall avoid going into details of what I sawand heard and thought of Sarawak and its ruler, confining myselfchiefly to my experiences as a naturalist in search ofshells, insects, birds, and the Orang-utan, and to an accountof a journey through a part of the interior seldom visited byEuropeans.The first four months of my visit wei'e spent in various partsof the Sarawak River, from Santubong at its mouth up to thepicturesque limestone mountains and Chinese gold-fields of Bowand Bede. This part of the country has been so frequentlydescribed that I shall pass it over, especially as, owing to itsbeing the height of the wet season, my collections were comparativelypoor and insignificant.In March, 1855, I dietermined to go to the coal-works whichwere being opened near the Simunjon River, a small branch ofthe Sadong, a river east of Sarawak and between it and theBatang-Lupar. The Simunjon enters the Sadong River abouttwenty miles up. It as very nari'ow and very winding, andmucli overshadowed by the lofty forest, Avhich sometimes almostmeets over it. The whole country between it and the sea is aperfectly level forest-covered swamp, out of which rise a fewisolated hills, at the foot of one of which the works are situated.From the landing-place to the hill a Dyak road liad been formed,which consisted solely of tree-trunks laid end to end. Alongthese the bare-footed natives walk and carry heavy burdenswith the greatest ease, but to a booted European it is veiyslippery work, and when one's attention is constantly attractedby the various objects of interest around, a few tumbles into thebog are almost inevitable. During my fii'st walk along this roadI saw few insects or birds, but noticed some very handsomeorchids in flower, of the genus Coelogyne, a group which I afterwardsfound to be very abundant, and characteristic of thedistrict. On the slope of the hill near its foot a patch of foresthad been cleared away, and several rude houses erected, in whichwere residing Mr. Coulson, the engineei', and a number of Chineseworkmen. I was at first kindly accommodated in Mr. Coulson'shouse, but finding the spot very suitable for me, and offeringgreat facilities for collecting, I had a small house of two roomsand a verandah built for myself. Here I remained neai-ly ninemonths, and made an immense collection of insects, to whichclass of animals I devoted my chief attention, owing to thecircumstances being especially favourable.In the tropics a large proportion of the insects of all orders,and especially of tlie large and favourite group of beetles, aremore or less dependent on vegetation, and particularly ontimber, bai'k, and leaves in various stages of decay. In the untouchedvirgin forest, the insects which frequent such situations
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IV.] BORNEO—THE ORANG-UTAN. 27James Brooke, and lived in liis house whenever I was at <strong>the</strong>town <strong>of</strong> Sarawak in <strong>the</strong> intervals <strong>of</strong> my journeys. But somany books liave been written about this part <strong>of</strong> Borneo sinceI was <strong>the</strong>re, that I shall avoid going into details <strong>of</strong> what I sawand heard and thought <strong>of</strong> Sarawak and its ruler, confining myselfchiefly to my experiences as a naturalist in search <strong>of</strong>shells, insects, birds, and <strong>the</strong> Orang-<strong>utan</strong>, and to an account<strong>of</strong> a journey through a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> interior seldom visited byEuropeans.<strong>The</strong> first four months <strong>of</strong> my visit wei'e spent in various parts<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sarawak River, from Santubong at its mouth up to <strong>the</strong>picturesque limestone mountains and Chinese gold-fields <strong>of</strong> Bowand Bede. This part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country has been so frequentlydescribed that I shall pass it over, especially as, owing to itsbeing <strong>the</strong> height <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wet season, my collections were comparativelypoor and insignificant.In March, 1855, I dietermined to go to <strong>the</strong> coal-works whichwere being opened near <strong>the</strong> Simunjon River, a small branch <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> Sadong, a river east <strong>of</strong> Sarawak and between it and <strong>the</strong>Batang-Lupar. <strong>The</strong> Simunjon enters <strong>the</strong> Sadong River abouttwenty miles up. It as very nari'ow and very winding, andmucli overshadowed by <strong>the</strong> l<strong>of</strong>ty forest, Avhich sometimes almostmeets over it. <strong>The</strong> whole country between it and <strong>the</strong> sea is aperfectly level forest-covered swamp, out <strong>of</strong> which rise a fewisolated hills, at <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong> works are situated.From <strong>the</strong> <strong>land</strong>ing-place to <strong>the</strong> hill a Dyak road liad been formed,which consisted solely <strong>of</strong> tree-trunks laid end to end. Along<strong>the</strong>se <strong>the</strong> bare-footed natives walk and carry heavy burdenswith <strong>the</strong> greatest ease, but to a booted European it is veiyslippery work, and when one's attention is constantly attractedby <strong>the</strong> various objects <strong>of</strong> interest around, a few tumbles into <strong>the</strong>bog are almost inevitable. During my fii'st walk along this roadI saw few insects or birds, but noticed some very handsomeorchids in flower, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> genus Coelogyne, a group which I afterwardsfound to be very abundant, and characteristic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>district. On <strong>the</strong> slope <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hill near its foot a patch <strong>of</strong> foresthad been cleared away, and several rude houses erected, in whichwere residing Mr. Coulson, <strong>the</strong> engineei', and a number <strong>of</strong> Chineseworkmen. I was at first kindly accommodated in Mr. Coulson'shouse, but finding <strong>the</strong> spot very suitable for me, and <strong>of</strong>feringgreat facilities for collecting, I had a small house <strong>of</strong> two roomsand a verandah built for myself. Here I remained neai-ly ninemonths, and made an immense collection <strong>of</strong> insects, to whichclass <strong>of</strong> animals I devoted my chief attention, owing to <strong>the</strong>circumstances being especially favourable.In <strong>the</strong> tropics a large proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> insects <strong>of</strong> all orders,and especially <strong>of</strong> tlie large and favourite group <strong>of</strong> beetles, aremore or less dependent on vegetation, and particularly ontimber, bai'k, and leaves in various stages <strong>of</strong> decay. In <strong>the</strong> untouchedvirgin forest, <strong>the</strong> insects which frequent such situations