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The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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26 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chai-.try and shoot one for me, he told me that although he had beenfor twenty years shooting birds in <strong>the</strong>se forests he had neveryet shot one, and had never even seen one except after it hadbeen caught. <strong>The</strong> bird is so exceedingly shy and wary, andruns along <strong>the</strong> ground in <strong>the</strong> densest parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> forest soquickly, that it is impossible to get near it ; and its sobercolours and rich eye-like si~)ots, which are so ornamental whenseen in a museum, must harmonize well with <strong>the</strong> dead leavesamong which it dwells, and render it very inconspicuous. All<strong>the</strong> .specimens sold in Malacca are caught in snares, and myinformant, though he had shot none, had snared plenty.Tlie tiger and rhinoceros are still found here, and a fewyears ago elephants abounded, but <strong>the</strong>y have lately all disappeared.We found some heaps <strong>of</strong> dung, which seemed to bethat <strong>of</strong> elephants, and some tracks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rhinoceros, but sawnone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals. We, however, kept a fire up all night incase any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se creatures should visit us, and two <strong>of</strong> our mendeclared that <strong>the</strong>y did one day see a rhinoceros. When our ricewas finished, and our boxes full <strong>of</strong> specimens, we returned toAyer-panas, and a few days afterwards went on to Malacca,and <strong>the</strong>nce to Singapore. Mount Ophir has quite a reputationfor fevei", and all our friends were astonished at our I'ecklessnessin staying so long at its foot ; but we none <strong>of</strong> us suffered in <strong>the</strong>least, and I shall ever look back with pleasure to my trip, asbeing my first introduction to mountain scenery in <strong>the</strong> Easterntropics.<strong>The</strong> meagreness and brevity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sketch I have here given<strong>of</strong> my visit to Singapore and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Malay</strong> Peninsula is due to myhaving trusted chiefly to some private letters and a note-book,w^hich were lost ; and to a paper on Malacca and Mount Ophirwhich was sent to <strong>the</strong> Royal Geographical Society, but whichwas nei<strong>the</strong>r read nor printed, owing to pi^ess <strong>of</strong> matter at <strong>the</strong>end <strong>of</strong> a session, and <strong>the</strong> MSS. <strong>of</strong> which cannot now be found.I <strong>the</strong> less regret this, however, as so many works have beenwritten on <strong>the</strong>se parts ; and I always intended to pass lightlyover my travels in <strong>the</strong> western and better known portions <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> ArchiiDelago, in order to devote more space to <strong>the</strong> remoterdistricts, about which hardly anything has been wi'itten in <strong>the</strong>English language.CHAPTER IV.BORNEO—THE ORANG-UTAN.I ARRIVED at Sarawak on November 1st, 1854, and left it onJanuary 25th, 1856. In <strong>the</strong> interval I resided at many diflferentlocalities, and saw a good deal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dyak tribes as well as <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> Bornean ^<strong>Malay</strong>s. I vvas hospitably entertained by Sir

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